Trip (solo) report: one short week in Edinburgh, also Hadrian's Wall and St. Andrews
May 4th, 2008, 05:09 PM
#22
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SandyBrit, yes, I slept some. It occurs to me that an hour show is actually about 40 minutes without the commercials, but I slept through at least time for the 2-parter, so I had some shut eye for a while, along with more short times asleep on the domestic flight, enough to at least keep me going until Sunday night.
irishface, I loved Tony Hawks' writing style. When I've time I hope to track down some more of his books.
sandy_b, LAwoman and cw, thanks for reading. I'm glad to share!
irishface, I loved Tony Hawks' writing style. When I've time I hope to track down some more of his books.
sandy_b, LAwoman and cw, thanks for reading. I'm glad to share!
May 4th, 2008, 05:14 PM
#23
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<b>Day 2, – Dene Guest House to Calton Hill</b>
Looking at my notes for Sunday afternoon, I really haven’t much written, but a couple of trip details could be found useful for other Edinburgh visitors.
The Edinburgh airport web site, http://www.edinburghairport.com/, has several public transportation options for getting to and from the airport: taxi, buses, and shuttle. Figuring that I would be plenty tired, and not wanting to figure out the buses, I picked the Edinburgh Shuttle, http://www.edinburghshuttle.com/, for the door to door delivery. Price-wise, for a single person, the Shuttle is a decent option. It’s about half of a taxi fare cost (according to what I have read online for costs). I had booked the trip online for £8.00. When I arrived the stickers on the shuttle said £9.00 and the web site does too, now. I squeaked in the old rate, evidently.
The flight arrived late, so I missed the reservation time I had set. I wondered what would happen with the late arrival. The Shuttle’s web site isn’t too encouraging: “we will do our best to accommodate you on the next available departure.” Fortunately, all I had to do was wait about 10 minutes and myself and a party of three (also from the late flight) were driven to town.
This reminds me of another sign of the rising fuel costs: when my school took the Logan express coach last each the cost was $40.00. In the winter I checked the price and budgeted for an increased cost of $42.00, but by the time I left on my trip the cost was up to $44.00 (round trip ticket to Logan).
Arriving at the Dene Guest House I was shown to my room, directed to the toilet and shower rooms, and given two keys: one for my room, one to get into the Dene. I started unpacking and then headed out to find my way around a bit.
The first thing I wanted to know was how long it would take me to walk to Bus Stand E at Waterloo Place. That is where you are picked up for tours with Heart of Scotland Tours, http://www.heartofscotlandtours.co.uk/. I had a reservation for Tuesday.
I’ve read comments about Edinburgh and the changing terrain, but to walk it is to finally understand
From Eyre Place I walked up Brandon Street, UP Dundas Street, Up Hanover Street, until you arrive at the intersection with George Street, and then Hanover Street does a gentle down slope to Princes Street. From Brandon to Hanover it’s all a straight line, but the street names change along the way.
For me, door to bus stand took about one half hour. I kept walking to just take in the scenery. The Old Calton Burial Ground is near the bus stands, so I took a browse of that. I saw the steps up to the top of Calton Hill, but remembered comments on the threads of a roadway path and kept walking past the Old Royal High School to find it. (Thank you for that tidbit, whoever wrote that bit of help!) Windy. That’s what I remember of Calton Hill, and a very nice view.
I spent a while on top the hill watching some different groups. I think they were practicing for Beltane, a celebration on April 30. One group was drumming with more people practicing some dance moves.
When I finally went back down the roadway toward Princes Street, I looked around the Princes Mall (fyi, toilets downstairs, 20 pence to enter), purchased some small souvenirs, and finally found the entrance to the Tourist Information Centre (TIC) (sort of on top the mall, with different entrance from the mall).
When reserving the Tuesday tour with Heart of Scotland I asked about the student discount (I’m in a grad. program). I brought the card on my trip and used it for .. hmm .. 4 times for discounts, I think. While at the TIC I booked a Monday tour (student price) to go to St. Andrews with Rabbies, http://www.rabbies.com/.
My next stop was the Lothian Travelshop on the corner of Waverley Bridge and Market Street. I purchased a 1-week Ridacard, http://lothianbuses.com/tickets.php, because I would be in Edinburgh for the full week, and when I went back to the airport I could use the Ridacard on the airport bus. The web page mentions the £13.00 cost, but I can’t see a mention of the £3.00 card fee. Even with that I figured I would still come out at least even, if not slightly ahead, and I did ride quite a few times over the 7 days. Plus I have a nice souvenir and will take it back with me (the power of positive thinking, eh?) because I think it can be topped up.
Very tired now, I headed back to the Dene, walking and trying my first bus ride. Time for a bit more unpacking and then rest.
End of Day 2.
Looking at my notes for Sunday afternoon, I really haven’t much written, but a couple of trip details could be found useful for other Edinburgh visitors.
The Edinburgh airport web site, http://www.edinburghairport.com/, has several public transportation options for getting to and from the airport: taxi, buses, and shuttle. Figuring that I would be plenty tired, and not wanting to figure out the buses, I picked the Edinburgh Shuttle, http://www.edinburghshuttle.com/, for the door to door delivery. Price-wise, for a single person, the Shuttle is a decent option. It’s about half of a taxi fare cost (according to what I have read online for costs). I had booked the trip online for £8.00. When I arrived the stickers on the shuttle said £9.00 and the web site does too, now. I squeaked in the old rate, evidently.
The flight arrived late, so I missed the reservation time I had set. I wondered what would happen with the late arrival. The Shuttle’s web site isn’t too encouraging: “we will do our best to accommodate you on the next available departure.” Fortunately, all I had to do was wait about 10 minutes and myself and a party of three (also from the late flight) were driven to town.
This reminds me of another sign of the rising fuel costs: when my school took the Logan express coach last each the cost was $40.00. In the winter I checked the price and budgeted for an increased cost of $42.00, but by the time I left on my trip the cost was up to $44.00 (round trip ticket to Logan).
Arriving at the Dene Guest House I was shown to my room, directed to the toilet and shower rooms, and given two keys: one for my room, one to get into the Dene. I started unpacking and then headed out to find my way around a bit.
The first thing I wanted to know was how long it would take me to walk to Bus Stand E at Waterloo Place. That is where you are picked up for tours with Heart of Scotland Tours, http://www.heartofscotlandtours.co.uk/. I had a reservation for Tuesday.
I’ve read comments about Edinburgh and the changing terrain, but to walk it is to finally understand
From Eyre Place I walked up Brandon Street, UP Dundas Street, Up Hanover Street, until you arrive at the intersection with George Street, and then Hanover Street does a gentle down slope to Princes Street. From Brandon to Hanover it’s all a straight line, but the street names change along the way. For me, door to bus stand took about one half hour. I kept walking to just take in the scenery. The Old Calton Burial Ground is near the bus stands, so I took a browse of that. I saw the steps up to the top of Calton Hill, but remembered comments on the threads of a roadway path and kept walking past the Old Royal High School to find it. (Thank you for that tidbit, whoever wrote that bit of help!) Windy. That’s what I remember of Calton Hill, and a very nice view.
I spent a while on top the hill watching some different groups. I think they were practicing for Beltane, a celebration on April 30. One group was drumming with more people practicing some dance moves.
When I finally went back down the roadway toward Princes Street, I looked around the Princes Mall (fyi, toilets downstairs, 20 pence to enter), purchased some small souvenirs, and finally found the entrance to the Tourist Information Centre (TIC) (sort of on top the mall, with different entrance from the mall).
When reserving the Tuesday tour with Heart of Scotland I asked about the student discount (I’m in a grad. program). I brought the card on my trip and used it for .. hmm .. 4 times for discounts, I think. While at the TIC I booked a Monday tour (student price) to go to St. Andrews with Rabbies, http://www.rabbies.com/.
My next stop was the Lothian Travelshop on the corner of Waverley Bridge and Market Street. I purchased a 1-week Ridacard, http://lothianbuses.com/tickets.php, because I would be in Edinburgh for the full week, and when I went back to the airport I could use the Ridacard on the airport bus. The web page mentions the £13.00 cost, but I can’t see a mention of the £3.00 card fee. Even with that I figured I would still come out at least even, if not slightly ahead, and I did ride quite a few times over the 7 days. Plus I have a nice souvenir and will take it back with me (the power of positive thinking, eh?) because I think it can be topped up.
Very tired now, I headed back to the Dene, walking and trying my first bus ride. Time for a bit more unpacking and then rest.
End of Day 2.
May 5th, 2008, 08:14 AM
#24
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I'm really enjoying your report. In July my husband, I, and our 18-yo daughter will be going to Scotland for two weeks, also flying out of Boston.
If I understand correctly, you packed everything in a carry-on? There is no way that we'll be able to manage that with three people for two weeks. So, I imagine that we will need to collect our luggage at Heathrow...go through customs and immigration and then recheck it for the flight to EDI. Does that sound right? I'm a "contingency planner" too...should I expect problems with this leg of the trip? Here are our flight details:
American Airlines
---------------------
Boston Logan International (BOS) to London Heathrow (LHR)
Departure (BOS): July 3, 7:20 PM EDT (evening)
Arrival (LHR): July 4, 6:50 AM BST (morning)
Class: Economy
American Airlines Operated by: BRITISH AIRWAYS -- BA 1438 - Please check in with the operating carrier
-------------------
London Heathrow (LHR) to Edinburgh (EDI)
Departure (LHR): July 4, 8:50 AM BST (morning)
Arrival (EDI): July 4, 10:10 AM BST (morning)
So, we'll have two hours at Heathrow. That should be plenty and we should be fine, shouldn't we? Our daughter has been to London, but my husband and I (though we travel frequently), have never been anywhere in Europe, so we're a little nervous.
Thanks again for the trip report!
If I understand correctly, you packed everything in a carry-on? There is no way that we'll be able to manage that with three people for two weeks. So, I imagine that we will need to collect our luggage at Heathrow...go through customs and immigration and then recheck it for the flight to EDI. Does that sound right? I'm a "contingency planner" too...should I expect problems with this leg of the trip? Here are our flight details:
American Airlines
---------------------
Boston Logan International (BOS) to London Heathrow (LHR)
Departure (BOS): July 3, 7:20 PM EDT (evening)
Arrival (LHR): July 4, 6:50 AM BST (morning)
Class: Economy
American Airlines Operated by: BRITISH AIRWAYS -- BA 1438 - Please check in with the operating carrier
-------------------
London Heathrow (LHR) to Edinburgh (EDI)
Departure (LHR): July 4, 8:50 AM BST (morning)
Arrival (EDI): July 4, 10:10 AM BST (morning)
So, we'll have two hours at Heathrow. That should be plenty and we should be fine, shouldn't we? Our daughter has been to London, but my husband and I (though we travel frequently), have never been anywhere in Europe, so we're a little nervous.
Thanks again for the trip report!
May 5th, 2008, 08:20 AM
#25
Michellemd: Not to hijack scotlib's thread, but "<i>There is no way that we'll be able to manage that with three people for two weeks.</i>" Sure you can. LOTS of people travel w/ just carry ons.
Don't think "OMG - two weeks - we need 14 different outfits!!" Think mix/match and and plan on doing laundry once (or just wash things out overnight). 3 or 4 "bottoms" (slacks/jeans/skirts including what you wear on the flight) and lots of tops that can be layered will give you 25-30+ distinct outfits.
A morning arrival at LHR can be VERY congested and there can be long queues at immigration. 2 hours may be plenty - or not . . . . .
Don't think "OMG - two weeks - we need 14 different outfits!!" Think mix/match and and plan on doing laundry once (or just wash things out overnight). 3 or 4 "bottoms" (slacks/jeans/skirts including what you wear on the flight) and lots of tops that can be layered will give you 25-30+ distinct outfits.
A morning arrival at LHR can be VERY congested and there can be long queues at immigration. 2 hours may be plenty - or not . . . . .
May 5th, 2008, 08:43 AM
#26
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Michellemd, my family of four has taken several 2-week trips in <i>winter</i> using just a 21" (carry on size) suitcase for each of us. It's much easier for summer with less bulky clothing. We each carry a tote bag or school-sized backpack as well. Search the forum; there are several threads about packing light that even include packing lists.
May 5th, 2008, 09:13 AM
#28
Michellemd, just in case you read your details from American Airlines the way I did when my daughter flew this same itinerary, you can learn from my mistake. I saw the part about the flight being operated by BA and dropped my daughter off in Boston at Terminal E, where BA is located.
But the flight from Boston to London is in fact operated by AA, it's only the leg from London to Edinburgh that's on BA. And in Boston, AA international flights do not leave from terminal E, where most international flights leave. They leave from terminal B. They do arrive in terminal E, that's where all international flights arrive because that is where you find customs and immigration.
Not to say that you will read as sloppily as I did, but just in case...
But the flight from Boston to London is in fact operated by AA, it's only the leg from London to Edinburgh that's on BA. And in Boston, AA international flights do not leave from terminal E, where most international flights leave. They leave from terminal B. They do arrive in terminal E, that's where all international flights arrive because that is where you find customs and immigration.
Not to say that you will read as sloppily as I did, but just in case...
May 5th, 2008, 09:40 AM
#29
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Hi michellemd,
Definitely listen to janisj about packing light. Her posts on the subject are right on target!
A person can live out of a carry-on for 2 weeks if (a) you want to, (b) you practice packing, and (c) re-pack again to get it lighter with the best options for lightweight, mix-match, and leave out the "just in case" items!
Yes, you can say that's all personal opinion, from my perspective Threads here can help you if you meet (a), and the (b) and (c) are ideas from my own experiences.
Your flight details do not mention the arrival terminal. Do you know which it will be? Probably (locals/experts can correct me) whichever it is, just follow the Flight Connections signs and you will get to where you need to go. I had studied web pages on the Heathrow web site, practicing the route, all I did once there was follow the purple signs.
It'll take flight experts to be sure this is correct: you should be able to get your luggage set to go from Boston to Edinburgh with the transfer done by the airlines because (I think, could be wrong) that AA and BA have some affiliation. Please, correct me if I'm wrong, anyone in the know!
BUT consider this .. if you go with one carry-on each, you don't care about what happens (or Doesn't happen, remember the 28K missing luggage pieces in Terminal 5's first week?) with the luggage at Heathrow because yours will be Safe with You!
That real one-bag restriction at Heathrow was lifted back this winter. Hopefully it remains lifted for your trip, so each person can have one carry-on and one personal item (ex.: handbag, small pack).
Cheers!
Definitely listen to janisj about packing light. Her posts on the subject are right on target!
A person can live out of a carry-on for 2 weeks if (a) you want to, (b) you practice packing, and (c) re-pack again to get it lighter with the best options for lightweight, mix-match, and leave out the "just in case" items!
Yes, you can say that's all personal opinion, from my perspective
Threads here can help you if you meet (a), and the (b) and (c) are ideas from my own experiences.Your flight details do not mention the arrival terminal. Do you know which it will be? Probably (locals/experts can correct me) whichever it is, just follow the Flight Connections signs and you will get to where you need to go. I had studied web pages on the Heathrow web site, practicing the route, all I did once there was follow the purple signs.
It'll take flight experts to be sure this is correct: you should be able to get your luggage set to go from Boston to Edinburgh with the transfer done by the airlines because (I think, could be wrong) that AA and BA have some affiliation. Please, correct me if I'm wrong, anyone in the know!
BUT consider this .. if you go with one carry-on each, you don't care about what happens (or Doesn't happen, remember the 28K missing luggage pieces in Terminal 5's first week?) with the luggage at Heathrow because yours will be Safe with You!
That real one-bag restriction at Heathrow was lifted back this winter. Hopefully it remains lifted for your trip, so each person can have one carry-on and one personal item (ex.: handbag, small pack).
Cheers!
May 5th, 2008, 05:23 PM
#30
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Thank you all for the continued readership!
<b>Day 3 – St. Andrews mini bus tour with Rabbies</b>
Before actually heading to the guest house on Sunday evening, I did do an exploratory walk from the Travelshop to High Street to know where the Rabbies tour office was. After breakfast, Monday morning found me <i>bussing</i> up Dundas St. and finishing the trip by walking. By Friday I knew more about the bus routes and could have gone further by bus, but on Monday I went as far as I knew.
Fyi, the Lothian Travelshops have little flyers to help explain the bus routes, though they only give a few of the stops. I found it helpful to stop and check the bus stop signs as I saw them and take a note of what busses stopped there and learn some of the bus stop names.
The mini bus was full. Our tour guide was Jackie, though two other Rabbies staff were also on board, both learning the route and tour information from Jackie.
The first stop was South Queensferry, sort of between the Firth of Forth rail bridge and the suspension road bridge. This was a good photo stop.
We crossed the suspension bridge with Jackie telling the story of the rail bridge and how the guy who was to build it built the bridge over the Tay first and his name has come to mean a terrible, absolutely awful job because that was the bridge that collapsed with a train crossing over. His name was Thomas Botch! So, the steadfast bridge that crosses the Firth of Forth now was built by a better contractor, and even though old, the rail bridge is in better condition than the suspension bridge we had just crossed and still needed to cross to return to Edinburgh!
I found out that all the yellow prickly bushes are gorse. A word I have read in plenty of novels, but now know what to picture in my mind! Driving on the highway, the way the bushes clumped reminded me of a bush we have here. I grew up knowing it as multiflora .. a very prickly, exceedingly! prickly, spring flowering plant. It certainly stops any animal trying to run through it! And wear long sleeves if you try to use bush cutters to cut it out or your arms will be covered with scratches (been there, done that). Mostly it just spreads like crazy, filling in pastures—a real nuisance.
We stopped in Anstruther for about a half hour, time to stretch, walk around the harbor, and a chance to use the public toilet (fyi, 30 pence). Some people preferred the option to buy a snack/drink and then use a business’s toilet for “free.” I preferred to Not start filling a tank that I was attempting to empty (sorry if that is too direct, lol).
I used part of the time to visit the Visitors Centre and get some guides to Fife and a very good town map and guide to St. Andrews, so when we arrived there I was set to hit the streets.
All the while that we were driving around the roads, Jackie had stories to share. She rarely stopped; almost everything had a story, or she would be answering questions from the passengers. To drive around the twisty, thin roads brought an involuntary “Eeep!” from me when we met a big truck on a curve. We never hit anything, but it was a bit unnerving at times
We had almost 3 hours in St. Andrews, I think. The tour description lists 2 hours, but I think we had longer; maybe the exact time just depends on how things go on any tour (traffic, etc.). We drove through town and then turned around by the (The) golf course, to give everyone a sense of where things were. We were then turned loose to do as we wished.
I visited the castle and the cathedral, using my GBHP for free entry at both. I tried going up the tower at the cathedral; just about freaked myself out. When you pay for entry to the cathedral (you can view a lot for free; paying or using a pass gets you extra exhibits and a chance to try the tower), you receive a token to put in a turnstile to enter the tower. A sign warned about the mechanism occasionally jamming. I’m all alone, so it was definitely in my mind as a worry, “What if it jams and I’m in it?!”
I’m typing this, so you know the story ends well, eh? Yes, I made it through the turnstile, then a very steep, curving metal stair led to some stone steps in a narrow channel of stone. At the top of the stone steps was a open landing that lets you look up .. up .. up to the roof. To continue meant going into what looks like a stone chimney with more stone steps and iron railing. The stairs must curve to get you up to the roof. I didn’t find out, my mind just absolutely refused the idea of investigating. I snapped some pictures and started counting the steps I had just come up as I headed OUT. Hmm, 12 stone steps, and 27 metal ones on the curved metal stair, then worry again if the turnstile would spin correctly getting me out. Jackie said the view from the top was very worth the climb. Probably, but on that day, I wasn’t able to do it.
I walked backed to the center of town and picked up fish and chips from PM’s, on the corner of Union and Market. Lots of take away batter fried haddock and chips and a water was less than £6.00. I started walking north on Market St (in the cathedral’s direction) and just after a store front that had information for a church, turned right on a small opening between the buildings. I almost think the name was Baker St. I only meant to walk and eat, but that little road had a little park. So I enjoyed my lunch on a sunny afternoon in the open air, with flowers by my bench, also a litter bin for “cleaning up.” It was great!
Heading back to Edinburgh we saw more lovely scenery, heard stories from Jackie, and stopped in Falkland to view the Falkland Palace. I had the pass, so used that to enter for free. It sounded like people were getting a discount for coming with Rabbies, and you had to decide if you wanted the palace or gardens or both. We hadn’t much time to tour, arriving toward the end of the open hours, about 30-45 minutes.
I don’t know if I have ever seen a mention of this about touring old, grand houses/buildings. They’re grand, and they’re old. Rooms of old furnishings and textiles have an “old” odor. I have not had a problem, yet, but I am aware of the feeling in the air, and I do wonder if some people have a hard time in some of these buildings with allergies sensitive to dust or mold.
Another fyi, stairs .. stairs at the castle, cathedral, and now the Palace. If you have any mobility issues, unfortunately stairs are everywhere!
The tour returns you to Edinburgh about 18:00. I think we were a bit after, but it was thereabouts. It never occurred to me to be ready to tip Jackie until I saw someone else do it. In all the threads about tipping, I don’t remember this one. Anyone have ideas what I should/could have done? (Other than say my “Thank you.”)
End of Day 3.
<b>Day 3 – St. Andrews mini bus tour with Rabbies</b>
Before actually heading to the guest house on Sunday evening, I did do an exploratory walk from the Travelshop to High Street to know where the Rabbies tour office was. After breakfast, Monday morning found me <i>bussing</i> up Dundas St. and finishing the trip by walking. By Friday I knew more about the bus routes and could have gone further by bus, but on Monday I went as far as I knew.
Fyi, the Lothian Travelshops have little flyers to help explain the bus routes, though they only give a few of the stops. I found it helpful to stop and check the bus stop signs as I saw them and take a note of what busses stopped there and learn some of the bus stop names.
The mini bus was full. Our tour guide was Jackie, though two other Rabbies staff were also on board, both learning the route and tour information from Jackie.
The first stop was South Queensferry, sort of between the Firth of Forth rail bridge and the suspension road bridge. This was a good photo stop.
We crossed the suspension bridge with Jackie telling the story of the rail bridge and how the guy who was to build it built the bridge over the Tay first and his name has come to mean a terrible, absolutely awful job because that was the bridge that collapsed with a train crossing over. His name was Thomas Botch! So, the steadfast bridge that crosses the Firth of Forth now was built by a better contractor, and even though old, the rail bridge is in better condition than the suspension bridge we had just crossed and still needed to cross to return to Edinburgh!
I found out that all the yellow prickly bushes are gorse. A word I have read in plenty of novels, but now know what to picture in my mind! Driving on the highway, the way the bushes clumped reminded me of a bush we have here. I grew up knowing it as multiflora .. a very prickly, exceedingly! prickly, spring flowering plant. It certainly stops any animal trying to run through it! And wear long sleeves if you try to use bush cutters to cut it out or your arms will be covered with scratches (been there, done that). Mostly it just spreads like crazy, filling in pastures—a real nuisance.
We stopped in Anstruther for about a half hour, time to stretch, walk around the harbor, and a chance to use the public toilet (fyi, 30 pence). Some people preferred the option to buy a snack/drink and then use a business’s toilet for “free.” I preferred to Not start filling a tank that I was attempting to empty (sorry if that is too direct, lol).
I used part of the time to visit the Visitors Centre and get some guides to Fife and a very good town map and guide to St. Andrews, so when we arrived there I was set to hit the streets.
All the while that we were driving around the roads, Jackie had stories to share. She rarely stopped; almost everything had a story, or she would be answering questions from the passengers. To drive around the twisty, thin roads brought an involuntary “Eeep!” from me when we met a big truck on a curve. We never hit anything, but it was a bit unnerving at times
We had almost 3 hours in St. Andrews, I think. The tour description lists 2 hours, but I think we had longer; maybe the exact time just depends on how things go on any tour (traffic, etc.). We drove through town and then turned around by the (The) golf course, to give everyone a sense of where things were. We were then turned loose to do as we wished.
I visited the castle and the cathedral, using my GBHP for free entry at both. I tried going up the tower at the cathedral; just about freaked myself out. When you pay for entry to the cathedral (you can view a lot for free; paying or using a pass gets you extra exhibits and a chance to try the tower), you receive a token to put in a turnstile to enter the tower. A sign warned about the mechanism occasionally jamming. I’m all alone, so it was definitely in my mind as a worry, “What if it jams and I’m in it?!”
I’m typing this, so you know the story ends well, eh? Yes, I made it through the turnstile, then a very steep, curving metal stair led to some stone steps in a narrow channel of stone. At the top of the stone steps was a open landing that lets you look up .. up .. up to the roof. To continue meant going into what looks like a stone chimney with more stone steps and iron railing. The stairs must curve to get you up to the roof. I didn’t find out, my mind just absolutely refused the idea of investigating. I snapped some pictures and started counting the steps I had just come up as I headed OUT. Hmm, 12 stone steps, and 27 metal ones on the curved metal stair, then worry again if the turnstile would spin correctly getting me out. Jackie said the view from the top was very worth the climb. Probably, but on that day, I wasn’t able to do it.
I walked backed to the center of town and picked up fish and chips from PM’s, on the corner of Union and Market. Lots of take away batter fried haddock and chips and a water was less than £6.00. I started walking north on Market St (in the cathedral’s direction) and just after a store front that had information for a church, turned right on a small opening between the buildings. I almost think the name was Baker St. I only meant to walk and eat, but that little road had a little park. So I enjoyed my lunch on a sunny afternoon in the open air, with flowers by my bench, also a litter bin for “cleaning up.” It was great!
Heading back to Edinburgh we saw more lovely scenery, heard stories from Jackie, and stopped in Falkland to view the Falkland Palace. I had the pass, so used that to enter for free. It sounded like people were getting a discount for coming with Rabbies, and you had to decide if you wanted the palace or gardens or both. We hadn’t much time to tour, arriving toward the end of the open hours, about 30-45 minutes.
I don’t know if I have ever seen a mention of this about touring old, grand houses/buildings. They’re grand, and they’re old. Rooms of old furnishings and textiles have an “old” odor. I have not had a problem, yet, but I am aware of the feeling in the air, and I do wonder if some people have a hard time in some of these buildings with allergies sensitive to dust or mold.
Another fyi, stairs .. stairs at the castle, cathedral, and now the Palace. If you have any mobility issues, unfortunately stairs are everywhere!
The tour returns you to Edinburgh about 18:00. I think we were a bit after, but it was thereabouts. It never occurred to me to be ready to tip Jackie until I saw someone else do it. In all the threads about tipping, I don’t remember this one. Anyone have ideas what I should/could have done? (Other than say my “Thank you.”)
End of Day 3.
May 5th, 2008, 06:34 PM
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Thank you so much everyone for all the advice. I'll quit hijacking the thread and "listen" quietly now. Thanks for the continuing trip reports. I'm sure I'll be back with more questions as July gets closer!
May 6th, 2008, 02:26 AM
#33
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What did you think of Rabbies tours? I am an older woman going to Scotland solo in September and am considering them for a multi-day trip. But, a forum Scotland expert has warned me that the group is mainly designed for young, backpackers. What do you think?
May 6th, 2008, 04:20 AM
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Hi SusieQQ,
I've heard it just about the opposite, that Rabbies is good for the older crowd.
Heart of Scotland was similar: comfortable mini coach and destinations with not too difficult access (you could make it difficult for yourself, but you don't have to.. more about that in Tuesday's notes).
Haggis Adventures is a tour company that is more for the young crowd, I've read.
When our mini coach was leaving I could see another leaving on what must have been a multi-day trip: each person had a carry-on size bag to load in the back. Hopefully, on one of all these threads about Scotland you could find a personal experience to read, but I did want to try it after enjoying the one day trip.
Cheers.
I've heard it just about the opposite, that Rabbies is good for the older crowd.
Heart of Scotland was similar: comfortable mini coach and destinations with not too difficult access (you could make it difficult for yourself, but you don't have to.. more about that in Tuesday's notes).
Haggis Adventures is a tour company that is more for the young crowd, I've read.
When our mini coach was leaving I could see another leaving on what must have been a multi-day trip: each person had a carry-on size bag to load in the back. Hopefully, on one of all these threads about Scotland you could find a personal experience to read, but I did want to try it after enjoying the one day trip.
Cheers.
May 6th, 2008, 04:35 AM
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Hi caroline_edinburgh,
Most of my shopping has been in department stores, and often the low-price end, big box name kind. I don't wish to offend anyone who shops in one particular name, but with time I have come to really believe in the Vime's Boot Theory, from Terry Pratchett:
<i>The reason the rich were so rich, Vimes reasoned, was because they managed to spend less money.
Take boots, for example. He earned thirty-eight dollars a month plus allowances. A really good pair of leather boots cost fifty dollars. But an affordable pair of boots, which were sort of OK for a season or two and then leaked like hell when the cardboard gave out, cost about ten dollars. Those were the kind of boots Vimes always bought, and wore until the soles were so thin that he could tell where he was in the city on a foggy night by the feel of the cobbles.
But the thing was that good boots lasted for years and years. A man who could afford fifty dollars had a pair of boots that'd still be keeping his feet dry in ten years' time, while a poor man who could only afford cheap boots would have spent a hundred dollars on boots in the same time and would still have wet feet.
This was the Captain Samuel Vimes "Boots" theory of socioeconomic unfairness.</i>
Before I get way far off on a tangent unrelated to travel and flamed for personal opinions it's not uncommon for the "you get what you pay for" cliche to be true: inexpensive shoes for my trip last year and my feet were so sore; the more expensive shoes of this year definitely also had some better quality because absolutely no trouble with my feet.
Cheers.
Most of my shopping has been in department stores, and often the low-price end, big box name kind. I don't wish to offend anyone who shops in one particular name, but with time I have come to really believe in the Vime's Boot Theory, from Terry Pratchett:
<i>The reason the rich were so rich, Vimes reasoned, was because they managed to spend less money.
Take boots, for example. He earned thirty-eight dollars a month plus allowances. A really good pair of leather boots cost fifty dollars. But an affordable pair of boots, which were sort of OK for a season or two and then leaked like hell when the cardboard gave out, cost about ten dollars. Those were the kind of boots Vimes always bought, and wore until the soles were so thin that he could tell where he was in the city on a foggy night by the feel of the cobbles.
But the thing was that good boots lasted for years and years. A man who could afford fifty dollars had a pair of boots that'd still be keeping his feet dry in ten years' time, while a poor man who could only afford cheap boots would have spent a hundred dollars on boots in the same time and would still have wet feet.
This was the Captain Samuel Vimes "Boots" theory of socioeconomic unfairness.</i>
Before I get way far off on a tangent unrelated to travel and flamed for personal opinions
it's not uncommon for the "you get what you pay for" cliche to be true: inexpensive shoes for my trip last year and my feet were so sore; the more expensive shoes of this year definitely also had some better quality because absolutely no trouble with my feet.Cheers.
May 6th, 2008, 03:25 PM
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<b>Day 4 – Rosslyn and the Roman Border</b>
While getting ready on Tuesday morning I started to realize how similar the top issues of the news were to home. Today it was the government bailing out some banks and the number of foreclosure threats climbing. I was in a location so far from home, yet all was also the same. Exactly a good reason for travel, yes? To realize how we are more similar than dissimilar.
In some initial planning, I thought that I would try and take the train to Newcastle and then the Hadrian’s Wall bus to do my own itinerary, but I did not purchase the fare in time for the super saver deals, and when I saw the prices higher than the cost of a tour, I made a reservation with Heart of Scotland. I think subconsciously I did not want to make the trip by train and bus because it would have been a full day of trying to make important connections on time, not to mention having no experience with taking the train. I know for my next trip I will travel to the area and stay a couple of days for a more relaxed visit, but for this time I just wanted to experience a bit of the wall, and taking the tour did accomplish that goal.
I traveled to Bus Stand E at Waterloo Place to meet the Heart of Scotland tour mini coach. It was a 16-person vehicle like the one used for the Rabbies tour. The trip to St. Andrews was full; this one was only half full. Our driver was Colin. He was full of great stories and terrific for answering all our questions, so I would love to go on another trip with him as driver.
More than once Colin would tell a story and it would involve a comment to look on the positive side. One was about Robert the Bruce when he killed a competitor, in a church no less, but to look on the positive side, and Colin had some positive to insert. I found myself doing that at lunch. I didn’t realize the water bottle I had grabbed from the cooler was frozen, but I decided that I could look on the positive .. I now had a drink for the rest of the afternoon, to drink a bit at a time as it thawed!
Our first stop of the morning was Rosslyn Chapel. We arrived right as it opened and stayed for about an hour. In my pictures I have one of William, the Rosslyn Chapel cat. He was a very sociable cat. He doesn’t live at the Chapel but comes every day at opening time for a full day of greeting people and lots of pats. Even if only a quarter of all the visitors were “cat” people, I think he received all the attention he desired.
Colin mentioned the roof over the Chapel that is allowing the building time to dry out. “It stinks like wet stone,” certainly was my first thought when entering the building. Do listen to the guides when they start telling the stories. It’s all very interesting history.
After the bit of scare I felt with the tower at the St. Andrews I wondered if I should try the scaffolding around the Chapel. I followed the instructions to the letter and did enjoy the views: <i>Do not run, do not lean over the edge, do not climb on the metalwork, and use the handrail on the stairs at all times.</i>
From the Chapel we drove to Melrose for lunch. We had only an hour’s visit in Melrose, much of that taken up by eating, but I did get in a quick 10-15 minute visit to the abbey, using my pass for free entry.
One person made a complaint type remark as we hit the road, about the lack of time for visiting the abbey. In terms of a tour, you can either visit someplace closer for a longer time or visit a further away destination, but by necessity the time will be shorter. I didn’t like the shortness of each stop either, but I also knew what the trip looked like on a map; compared to the St. Andrews trip, we were going a long, long way more. (With a Scotland only map, you’re literally going “off the map”!)
Next stop was Hadrian’s Wall. No, the next stop was the Scotland/England border, a stretch the legs and photo op for the stone markers. Then we were headed for the Wall. Once there you have to choose one of two options: visit Housesteads, the Roman fort museum, or walk along the wall starting from a point a bit to the west of Housesteads. Colin said it was a nice walk, with just a “steepish” bit to get up first. Everyone else got off at Housesteads, while I opted for the walk (Housesteads would have been free for me using the pass).
Colin drove me to the next visitors’ centre for a toilet stop, then across the road and up a steep hill to drop me off at a small parking lot. He had to go back down with the mini coach; he wasn’t really supposed to be up there, but did for the quick drop offs/pick ups.
I set out to follow the wall, walking down a steep grassy hill and then looked across a wet spot (made passable with stone pavers) to the “steepish” bit. It was a climb up a near cliff! Literally, stones are set into the hillside so you have a stone staircase but no railing. That’s an important note, in my case. I hurt both ankles in high school with very bad sprains. Repeat injuries over the years since and I have pretty weak ankles. I can go up stairs okay. Walking down is another matter, and I have to use a rail for support. If my weight falls on the points where my ankles have no strength, down I can go.
So, to go up the cliff was not particularly smart, but I definitely wanted (WANTED) to go up, so huffing and puffing I went up (plenty out of shape, and very overweight, fyi). A delightful surprise was at the top .. a stile! I enjoyed a series of books from Piers Anthony years ago, Split Infinity I think it was called. The main character took his name from the importance one of these played in his life, so his name was Stile.
I crossed the stile and walked for a ways, to a point the terrain dipped. I stopped at the top of the dip and had to head back to meet up with Colin on time. I would have had to go down, up, and then down again to see the Robin Hood’s tree. (Colin pointed out how close I had come, though too far for time, because we passed that way backtracking to Housesteads. So I did get to see the tree, just not up close, and I have another reason for going back.)
Now came the problem .. getting down that “steepish” bit, or as I saw it, “steps with no hand rails.” The guy behind me was walking down as if walking down the steps into Princes St. Gardens. He didn’t say anything but his expression wondered why I was going down one step at a time, on my butt, like a toddler on stairs. It was the only way to be sure I didn’t end up in a heap at the bottom.
Everyone who visited Housesteads museum loved it (several said, “Spectacular!”), though they also had a steepish walk to get to it, but it’s on a paved roadway, I think, not a cliff with steps. I had time to go into the shop for some postcards and heard the staff helping a lady with instructions to drive up because she had mobility issues and couldn’t walk up. So that could be a possibility if you need the help to get to the fort yourself. It could depend on how busy the fort is, but it’s at least something to inquire if you really need the assistance.
Headed back to Edinburgh, we stopped for a break in Jedburgh. It was only a 10-15 minute break, time to visit the public toilet (no cost, that I remember) and enjoy view the abbey from a park bench, looking across the Jed Water, but not time to actually go over to the abbey.
Colin had to backtrack to a certain point from the morning’s drive and then he took another route so we could see more scenery. So much beauty: great views, farmland, sheep (lots of little sheep!).
The web site says the planned return is 19:30. I don’t really remember, now, but I suppose that was about it. I had certainly had my workout for the day, and was ready for going back to the Dene, so I did!
End of Day 4.
While getting ready on Tuesday morning I started to realize how similar the top issues of the news were to home. Today it was the government bailing out some banks and the number of foreclosure threats climbing. I was in a location so far from home, yet all was also the same. Exactly a good reason for travel, yes? To realize how we are more similar than dissimilar.
In some initial planning, I thought that I would try and take the train to Newcastle and then the Hadrian’s Wall bus to do my own itinerary, but I did not purchase the fare in time for the super saver deals, and when I saw the prices higher than the cost of a tour, I made a reservation with Heart of Scotland. I think subconsciously I did not want to make the trip by train and bus because it would have been a full day of trying to make important connections on time, not to mention having no experience with taking the train. I know for my next trip I will travel to the area and stay a couple of days for a more relaxed visit, but for this time I just wanted to experience a bit of the wall, and taking the tour did accomplish that goal.
I traveled to Bus Stand E at Waterloo Place to meet the Heart of Scotland tour mini coach. It was a 16-person vehicle like the one used for the Rabbies tour. The trip to St. Andrews was full; this one was only half full. Our driver was Colin. He was full of great stories and terrific for answering all our questions, so I would love to go on another trip with him as driver.
More than once Colin would tell a story and it would involve a comment to look on the positive side. One was about Robert the Bruce when he killed a competitor, in a church no less, but to look on the positive side, and Colin had some positive to insert. I found myself doing that at lunch. I didn’t realize the water bottle I had grabbed from the cooler was frozen, but I decided that I could look on the positive .. I now had a drink for the rest of the afternoon, to drink a bit at a time as it thawed!
Our first stop of the morning was Rosslyn Chapel. We arrived right as it opened and stayed for about an hour. In my pictures I have one of William, the Rosslyn Chapel cat. He was a very sociable cat. He doesn’t live at the Chapel but comes every day at opening time for a full day of greeting people and lots of pats. Even if only a quarter of all the visitors were “cat” people, I think he received all the attention he desired.
Colin mentioned the roof over the Chapel that is allowing the building time to dry out. “It stinks like wet stone,” certainly was my first thought when entering the building. Do listen to the guides when they start telling the stories. It’s all very interesting history.
After the bit of scare I felt with the tower at the St. Andrews I wondered if I should try the scaffolding around the Chapel. I followed the instructions to the letter and did enjoy the views: <i>Do not run, do not lean over the edge, do not climb on the metalwork, and use the handrail on the stairs at all times.</i>
From the Chapel we drove to Melrose for lunch. We had only an hour’s visit in Melrose, much of that taken up by eating, but I did get in a quick 10-15 minute visit to the abbey, using my pass for free entry.
One person made a complaint type remark as we hit the road, about the lack of time for visiting the abbey. In terms of a tour, you can either visit someplace closer for a longer time or visit a further away destination, but by necessity the time will be shorter. I didn’t like the shortness of each stop either, but I also knew what the trip looked like on a map; compared to the St. Andrews trip, we were going a long, long way more. (With a Scotland only map, you’re literally going “off the map”!)
Next stop was Hadrian’s Wall. No, the next stop was the Scotland/England border, a stretch the legs and photo op for the stone markers. Then we were headed for the Wall. Once there you have to choose one of two options: visit Housesteads, the Roman fort museum, or walk along the wall starting from a point a bit to the west of Housesteads. Colin said it was a nice walk, with just a “steepish” bit to get up first. Everyone else got off at Housesteads, while I opted for the walk (Housesteads would have been free for me using the pass).
Colin drove me to the next visitors’ centre for a toilet stop, then across the road and up a steep hill to drop me off at a small parking lot. He had to go back down with the mini coach; he wasn’t really supposed to be up there, but did for the quick drop offs/pick ups.
I set out to follow the wall, walking down a steep grassy hill and then looked across a wet spot (made passable with stone pavers) to the “steepish” bit. It was a climb up a near cliff! Literally, stones are set into the hillside so you have a stone staircase but no railing. That’s an important note, in my case. I hurt both ankles in high school with very bad sprains. Repeat injuries over the years since and I have pretty weak ankles. I can go up stairs okay. Walking down is another matter, and I have to use a rail for support. If my weight falls on the points where my ankles have no strength, down I can go.
So, to go up the cliff was not particularly smart, but I definitely wanted (WANTED) to go up, so huffing and puffing I went up (plenty out of shape, and very overweight, fyi). A delightful surprise was at the top .. a stile! I enjoyed a series of books from Piers Anthony years ago, Split Infinity I think it was called. The main character took his name from the importance one of these played in his life, so his name was Stile.
I crossed the stile and walked for a ways, to a point the terrain dipped. I stopped at the top of the dip and had to head back to meet up with Colin on time. I would have had to go down, up, and then down again to see the Robin Hood’s tree. (Colin pointed out how close I had come, though too far for time, because we passed that way backtracking to Housesteads. So I did get to see the tree, just not up close, and I have another reason for going back.)
Now came the problem .. getting down that “steepish” bit, or as I saw it, “steps with no hand rails.” The guy behind me was walking down as if walking down the steps into Princes St. Gardens. He didn’t say anything but his expression wondered why I was going down one step at a time, on my butt, like a toddler on stairs. It was the only way to be sure I didn’t end up in a heap at the bottom.
Everyone who visited Housesteads museum loved it (several said, “Spectacular!”), though they also had a steepish walk to get to it, but it’s on a paved roadway, I think, not a cliff with steps. I had time to go into the shop for some postcards and heard the staff helping a lady with instructions to drive up because she had mobility issues and couldn’t walk up. So that could be a possibility if you need the help to get to the fort yourself. It could depend on how busy the fort is, but it’s at least something to inquire if you really need the assistance.
Headed back to Edinburgh, we stopped for a break in Jedburgh. It was only a 10-15 minute break, time to visit the public toilet (no cost, that I remember) and enjoy view the abbey from a park bench, looking across the Jed Water, but not time to actually go over to the abbey.
Colin had to backtrack to a certain point from the morning’s drive and then he took another route so we could see more scenery. So much beauty: great views, farmland, sheep (lots of little sheep!).
The web site says the planned return is 19:30. I don’t really remember, now, but I suppose that was about it. I had certainly had my workout for the day, and was ready for going back to the Dene, so I did!
End of Day 4.
