Trip Report: Berlin, Prague, Dresden
Jul 14th, 2008, 02:34 PM
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Trip Report: Berlin, Prague, Dresden
We had a wonderful trip to Berlin, Prague and Dresden, thanks to all the wonderful help I got here on Fodors. The trip was initiated by my fiance’s business trip to Berlin, but we decided to turn it into a vacation for the two of us. We flew overnight to Berlin and spent 4 nights there… supposedly for my fiancé to attend his conference, but luckily he ended up with lots of free time to sightsee with me as well. We were lucky that the company paid for us to stay in the Hilton at Gendarmenmarket… an excellent location and a much nicer place than we could have afforded otherwise. Some of the highlights of Berlin were biking to Charlottenburg palace (it’s incredibly easy to bike in Berlin!), eating lunch atop the Reichstag, visiting the Pergamon and Altes museums, and taking a river cruise on the Spree. For food and drinks in the evening, we especially enjoyed the Hacksher Market and Oranienburg areas.
I was surprised by what a nice mixture of old and new I found in Berlin. It is a city that is moving forward quickly, but still honors its past respectfully and appropriately. I was touched not only by memorials like the Holocaust memorial, the Topography of Terror, and the Neue Wache, but also by the numerous very small ways the world wars, the Holocaust, and cold war are remembered throughout the city.
Then it was off to Prague. What a magical city! Again we got very lucky with the hotel. I had originally booked The Red Lion hotel and had arranged for the hotel to transfer us from the train station (I was glad I did this by the way, because the station was pretty hot and crowded… our driver met us immediately and whisked us off so we didn’t deal with any hassles at all). I can’t speak any Czech, but when we arrived at the hotel, there was a picture of 3 birds on the door, not a red lion, so I thought it might be the wrong hotel. The driver didn’t seem to understand my questions in English, but kept gesturing to indicate everything was OK. When I spoke with the hotel clerk, she nicely explained that there was no room at the Red Lion, so they had moved us here, to the Three Storks, but we would still pay the same rate as the Red Lion. I wasn’t quite sure what to think, but then she walked us to our room… WOW! This was a true deluxe room and it was enormous. Then she said, “And for your troubles, here is a bottle of champagne from the management.” OK, just don’t let this kind of mix-up happen again.
We especially enjoyed the location of this hotel in the Little Quarter. It turns out that the Red Lion would have involved a lot of walking up the hill each day. The Three Storks is located a very short walk from the Charles Bridge, before the steep incline up to the castle. It is also adjacent to the Czech Senate building, and just around the corner from St Nicholas church. I don’t know if many people know this, but the Czech Senate (Wallenstein Palace) has gorgeous gardens that are free and open to the public. A great spot for a good photo, or just to sit and enjoy some peace and quiet. We loved everything we did in Prague… which was mostly just walking around and poking our head into whatever looked interesting.
After three wonderful nights in Prague, we made an overnight stop in Dresden before heading back to Berlin. I was so grateful that so many Fodorites recommended Dresden… I probably never would have visited there otherwise. It is a beautiful city with lots to offer; it’s also very compact so you can see most of the main sights without walking very far at all. We again stayed in nicer place that we normally would because I found a great deal in advance for the Radisson SAS… a beautiful hotel located steps from the main square. Great location and a real feeling of luxury . We enjoyed the Green Vault, Zwinger Palace, Procession of Princes, and especially the magic of Dresden at night.
On our second day there, it was blistering hot so we decided to take in the movie that’s advertised all over the place about Dresden before the war. We actually found it quite interesting… it was a tourism film of Dresden from the 1930s and showed everything the way it originally looked. I must say, it seems the Dresdeners have done an excellent job of rebuilding, because it all looks remarkably the same. We were glad we watched the movie after we had walked all over the city and become familiar with the place. Another highlight was Dresdener cake… be sure to have a piece of this rich dessert if you go!
After two days in Dresden, it was time to get back on the train and return to Berlin. I had originally planned to spend our last full day in Berlin visiting Potsdam, but it ended up pouring rain that day. So instead we went to some museums… Neue Nationalgalerie (with a really cool photo exhibit by Hiroshi Sugimoto) and the Gemaldegalerie (this place is massive… almost too much to take in). Both were enjoyable and the perfect way to spend our rainy day.
Our last hotel in Berlin was the Alexander Plaza; a perfectly nice place, but after being treated to such luxurious hotels for the rest of the trip, this seemed a step down. However, this is the type of place we usually stay, and I would have been perfectly happy with it if I hadn’t been so darn lucky with the rest of the hotels. The room was actually quite large.
Thanks again for everyone who helped make this trip so wonderful! We had a fantastic time!
I was surprised by what a nice mixture of old and new I found in Berlin. It is a city that is moving forward quickly, but still honors its past respectfully and appropriately. I was touched not only by memorials like the Holocaust memorial, the Topography of Terror, and the Neue Wache, but also by the numerous very small ways the world wars, the Holocaust, and cold war are remembered throughout the city.
Then it was off to Prague. What a magical city! Again we got very lucky with the hotel. I had originally booked The Red Lion hotel and had arranged for the hotel to transfer us from the train station (I was glad I did this by the way, because the station was pretty hot and crowded… our driver met us immediately and whisked us off so we didn’t deal with any hassles at all). I can’t speak any Czech, but when we arrived at the hotel, there was a picture of 3 birds on the door, not a red lion, so I thought it might be the wrong hotel. The driver didn’t seem to understand my questions in English, but kept gesturing to indicate everything was OK. When I spoke with the hotel clerk, she nicely explained that there was no room at the Red Lion, so they had moved us here, to the Three Storks, but we would still pay the same rate as the Red Lion. I wasn’t quite sure what to think, but then she walked us to our room… WOW! This was a true deluxe room and it was enormous. Then she said, “And for your troubles, here is a bottle of champagne from the management.” OK, just don’t let this kind of mix-up happen again.
We especially enjoyed the location of this hotel in the Little Quarter. It turns out that the Red Lion would have involved a lot of walking up the hill each day. The Three Storks is located a very short walk from the Charles Bridge, before the steep incline up to the castle. It is also adjacent to the Czech Senate building, and just around the corner from St Nicholas church. I don’t know if many people know this, but the Czech Senate (Wallenstein Palace) has gorgeous gardens that are free and open to the public. A great spot for a good photo, or just to sit and enjoy some peace and quiet. We loved everything we did in Prague… which was mostly just walking around and poking our head into whatever looked interesting.
After three wonderful nights in Prague, we made an overnight stop in Dresden before heading back to Berlin. I was so grateful that so many Fodorites recommended Dresden… I probably never would have visited there otherwise. It is a beautiful city with lots to offer; it’s also very compact so you can see most of the main sights without walking very far at all. We again stayed in nicer place that we normally would because I found a great deal in advance for the Radisson SAS… a beautiful hotel located steps from the main square. Great location and a real feeling of luxury . We enjoyed the Green Vault, Zwinger Palace, Procession of Princes, and especially the magic of Dresden at night.
On our second day there, it was blistering hot so we decided to take in the movie that’s advertised all over the place about Dresden before the war. We actually found it quite interesting… it was a tourism film of Dresden from the 1930s and showed everything the way it originally looked. I must say, it seems the Dresdeners have done an excellent job of rebuilding, because it all looks remarkably the same. We were glad we watched the movie after we had walked all over the city and become familiar with the place. Another highlight was Dresdener cake… be sure to have a piece of this rich dessert if you go!
After two days in Dresden, it was time to get back on the train and return to Berlin. I had originally planned to spend our last full day in Berlin visiting Potsdam, but it ended up pouring rain that day. So instead we went to some museums… Neue Nationalgalerie (with a really cool photo exhibit by Hiroshi Sugimoto) and the Gemaldegalerie (this place is massive… almost too much to take in). Both were enjoyable and the perfect way to spend our rainy day.
Our last hotel in Berlin was the Alexander Plaza; a perfectly nice place, but after being treated to such luxurious hotels for the rest of the trip, this seemed a step down. However, this is the type of place we usually stay, and I would have been perfectly happy with it if I hadn’t been so darn lucky with the rest of the hotels. The room was actually quite large.
Thanks again for everyone who helped make this trip so wonderful! We had a fantastic time!
Jul 14th, 2008, 02:52 PM
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Really enjoyed your trip report. Though I can understand your disappointment re
otsdam, it sounds like you got to see some great gems on that day. I'm jealous you got to see the Sugimoto retrospective - his photographs are just simply amazing, isn't it? And the Gemaldegalerie... I can't wait to return there to enjoy all the Old Masters.
Dresden is very high on my to-go list.
Thanks again for your report. BTW, what did you think of your lunch at Reichstag? I've eaten there 5 years ago and thought it wasn't bad, but I think lately there have been reports that it's expensive and food wasn't good.
otsdam, it sounds like you got to see some great gems on that day. I'm jealous you got to see the Sugimoto retrospective - his photographs are just simply amazing, isn't it? And the Gemaldegalerie... I can't wait to return there to enjoy all the Old Masters.Dresden is very high on my to-go list.
Thanks again for your report. BTW, what did you think of your lunch at Reichstag? I've eaten there 5 years ago and thought it wasn't bad, but I think lately there have been reports that it's expensive and food wasn't good.
Jul 14th, 2008, 04:40 PM
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I'm glad you enjoyed my report... I get most of my travel ideas from reading other people's trip reports, so I only think it's fair that I share what I can too.
Yes, I was disappointed to miss Potsdam, but the museums were a great substitute. The Sugimoto exhibit was fantastic, and just the right size too. The Gemaldegalerie was terrific, but there is so much there, it was hard to take it all in. I probably would have enjoyed it more if I hadn't done it right after the other museum; I think I got a little exhausted.
We also really enjoyed the Reichstag lunch... yes it was indeed quite pricey, but the food was delicious. The real advantage was being able to skip the two-hour line and shoot right up the special elevator.
Yes, do get to Dresden if you have the chance. It's wonderful.
Yes, I was disappointed to miss Potsdam, but the museums were a great substitute. The Sugimoto exhibit was fantastic, and just the right size too. The Gemaldegalerie was terrific, but there is so much there, it was hard to take it all in. I probably would have enjoyed it more if I hadn't done it right after the other museum; I think I got a little exhausted.
We also really enjoyed the Reichstag lunch... yes it was indeed quite pricey, but the food was delicious. The real advantage was being able to skip the two-hour line and shoot right up the special elevator.
Yes, do get to Dresden if you have the chance. It's wonderful.
Jul 14th, 2008, 05:28 PM
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We recently returned from Prague, with a day trip to Dresden. Both are amazing cities, from the history, architecture, culture, food, and, of course, beer -that's a pretty wide spectrum! Prague is one of those cities that you could return to often and still not experience it all. We only had time for a day trip to Dresden, and in that short amount of time, fell in love with the city. It was encouraging to see the rebirth of the city after the Allied bombing in WW2 - the blend of old and new is working well together. (a quick thank you sidenote to Ingo for her Dresden recommendations).
We have yet to experience Berlin, but from reading many posts about it on this forum, is definitely not to be missed.
We have yet to experience Berlin, but from reading many posts about it on this forum, is definitely not to be missed.
Jul 14th, 2008, 09:27 PM
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> Czech Senate (Wallenstein Palace) has gorgeous gardens that are free and open to the public ...
I really like this garden. Whenever it's open (it's closed Nov - March), I try to visit it at least once every time I'm in Prague.
I took the following pics in April 2007, in Easter. It was like a oasis from the tourist crowds of the castle and the Charles' bridge.
http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...t=P1020998.jpg
http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...t=P1030061.jpg
They also have a beautiful hall upstairs also open to the public (maybe not every day) and free.
I really like this garden. Whenever it's open (it's closed Nov - March), I try to visit it at least once every time I'm in Prague.
I took the following pics in April 2007, in Easter. It was like a oasis from the tourist crowds of the castle and the Charles' bridge.
http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...t=P1020998.jpg
http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...t=P1030061.jpg
They also have a beautiful hall upstairs also open to the public (maybe not every day) and free.
Jul 17th, 2008, 06:48 AM
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Thanks for the trip report, msteacher. I am very glad you liked Dresden too.
Debs, no problem. LOL Still wondering why often Fodorites think my name indicates I'm female.
Alan, there are ads for this film all over the city. I believe it is showed in the Verkehrsmuseum (Museum of Transportation) right next to Neumarkt square. Not totally sure, though, and I have not seen it yet.
I.
Debs, no problem. LOL Still wondering why often Fodorites think my name indicates I'm female.
Alan, there are ads for this film all over the city. I believe it is showed in the Verkehrsmuseum (Museum of Transportation) right next to Neumarkt square. Not totally sure, though, and I have not seen it yet.
I.
Jul 17th, 2008, 06:29 PM
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The movie we saw was playing above a restaurant, right off of Neumarket square. Sorry I don't remember it's name, but you'll see signs around for it. We noticed there was another movie playing at one of the museums... I think this is the one Ingo is referring to. By the way, thanks Ingo for your help in planning our trip. (I'm guessing Ingo looks like "Inga" to some people, a common female name. Don't worry, I knew you were a guy)
