ita

this is not going to be a detailed account of our trip. There are many of those to read-particularly Nikki and Opaldog. Also Marisol's online guide. They were invaluable to me and almost always spot on.

I am going to write about my observations and experiences.

My daughter and I spent 11 days in Barcelona in mid October. We left home a day early because of a possible airline strike. We stayed in Eixample at the Pedera Apartment -Habitat Apartments. I have written about it on another post but will repeat it here. The location was perfect, the apartment was very adequate and I would recommend it. There are few basic supplies and the towels are thin and inadequate, You can get extra towels for a fee but they will still be the same. There is a dishwasher, washing machine (no dryer) and wi-fi. It is necessary to do a shopping-good store Bon Prie-a few blocks away. We bought paper goods-toilet paper, soap ,etc. I brought several things from home. The only soap in the bathroom was a used bottle of liquid soap.

This is the only trip on which I did not use public transportation. I was scared off the metro by this forum. We walked most places, took cabs when we were in a hurry or too tired. The cabs were usually less than 5 E. The only disadvantage of the cabs was that the streets are all one way so the cabs had to go around about and I did not get my bearings as well-how close we were to most things.

We had been well warned about the ATM problem and we certainly encountered it. We were asked at the ATM, in shops and restaurants, whether we wanted the bill calculated in our home currency. If you answer yes, the provider gives you a poorer rate of exchange and tack on a service charge. Just answer no. You still have to pay in Euros.

We spent 2 full days on the hop on, hop off bus-a wonderful way to get an overview. I did not think that this was the way to visit museums if you wanted to spend a good amount of time there. We ended up visiting one museum a day, in the morning, not at the end of the day when we were tired. Senior discounts (I am one) are better than the discount coupons. Some museums were free for seniors,MACBAMNAC. We bought the Modernisme guide. I really did not think it was worthwhile unless you want to do an extensive study of the Moderisme buildings. We were surrounded by them and visited all the major ones. My favorite was the interior of the Sagrada Famillia. Most certainly buy your ticket in advance, forgo any discounts. You can buy a ticket at any Caixa Bank ATM. They are all over, across from our apartment, across from Sagrada Famillia. We arrived at 8:45 and were second in line to get in. By that time, the line to buy tickets snaked all around the building.
to be continued

susanna

Yeah...continue please!

danon

Too bad you were scared to take public transit because of some posters' comments.
It' s great and cheap. I have used metro , buses and trains on all my visits to Barcelona ( six so far).
Often at night and alone. Never had problem.

ita

I was only scared to take the metro. Every time we were set to use the bus we were in a hurry or really tired and taxis were so convienent and relatively inexpensive. I was also scared off Las Ramblas by this forum and was very uneasy being there at night-only did it once. I didn't like really crowded places like Las Ramlas.

We also found Bouqueria very crowded and somewhat disappointing. It was fun to look at the food. We bought stuff to take home, particularly special mushrooms which my daughter cooked and we had for a meal with wonderful burekas that we bought at an Israeli stand at the market. It was in the last aisle near the lane. My daughter bought special Iberian ham to take home to a friend (my daughter has never eaten ham in her life and at this point doesn't eat meat). Anyways she declared it a customs (Canadian) and we were pulled out of line, the ham was confiscated and we both missed our connecting flights. Apparently you can bring meat from the United States to Canada, but not from Europe.

We also went to the Mercat Santa Caterina, near the cathedral. That was much more manageable and we had a good look at everything. We were very impressed (grossed out) with the skinned rabbits, heads and eyes intact, hanging on display. Later I learned that the eyes are left in to attest to the freshness of the meat-not of interest to us. We bought food for our supper there-prepared food in not inexpensive. I wanted to buy 2 tomatoes (granted they were heritage). The vendor put them in a plastic bag, filled it with air, weighed it and wanted 5E. Needless to say we did not take them. I bought similar ones at the supermarket for a reasonable price. A tip-when buying fruits and vegetables at a supermarket, you must weigh and price them before you go to the checkout. This caused me much confusion.

annhig

I wanted to buy 2 tomatoes (granted they were heritage). The vendor put them in a plastic bag, filled it with air, weighed it and wanted 5E.>>

is air heavy? perhaps they were just very expensive tomatoes.

anyway, glad you enjoyed your trip and it's nice to know that the Barcelona taxis are cheap.

Nikki

We also found taxis to be plentiful and relatively inexpensive in Barcelona.

Glad you enjoyed the apartment; I always hold my breath when somebody stays in a place based on my recommendation.

I remember thinking I was paying a lot for heritage tomatoes this summer at the farmer's market where I live, especially when they were big, heavy ones. Even without lots of air in the bag.

Looking forward to reading more.

opaldog

Also glad you liked the apartment; very true that the apartment was lacking in supplies. I enjoy getting out to the grocery store and picking up small items for my stay.

The metro was good in Barcelona. Next time, if there is a next time, definitely try it. Las Ramblas was to me very touristy and not the area I would hang out in, but it was good to experience it.

I'll be watching for your continued report.

ita

food-a big topic. In looking over my notes I have discovered that restaurants can charge extra for eating outside. We almost always did this and probably would have even if we had known of the surcharge. It was so pleasant outside and the insides were usually small and crowded. Tipping was a problem. I didn't know what to do. It was not included on the bill, but it didn't seem to be expected. I know about rounding out the bill, but when you pay by credit card, how do you do it? There is no place on the credit card bill for a tip. Consequently we only tipped in one restaurant-Cinc Sentits and only 10%. We were told by someone in the restaurant business that she only tips in upscale places and not the North American 15 or 20%. We certainly did not get dirty looks from the wait staff for not tipping.

I took note of all the recommendations on this forum and ate at many of them, but we only went to destinations for special places.

We did not breakfast at Mauri's. I like to eat my breakfast at home in quiet. I also like tea for breakfast and find it difficult to get a properly brewed cup in a restaurant. The rental agency would not provide a teapot even though I requested it, so I used the kettle. We did have snacks at Mauri's. The pastry was good, but the sandwiches were mediocre. It was also expensive. I guess I would say this about all the food. We rarely had any type of a meal (even lunch) that was less than 20E each and this included very little alcohol. Perhaps our area was expensive.

We ate lunch at El Mato de Pedrables-very nice, but they no longer have a menu fixe. We had tapas twice at Cuidad Condal, the first time great, the second time just okay. We were limited with tapas because my daughter does not eat meat or most fish. We like the potatas brava. We could not get fried artichokes anywhere. We were told it was not the season, although we saw them in the markets. We had a nice meal at Cheeseme, Plaza Jacint Reventos, near the Picasso Museum. It was pris fixe for 15E before all the surcharges.

Our two special treats were Tickets and Cinc Sentits, both of which were reserved well in advance.

Tickets was such fun. We were seated at the bar and could watch all the preparation. I was particularly impressed by the person who sliced the jambon paper thin with the precision and the steadiness of a surgeon. Then the plate was inspected by the head honcho who removed any slice less than perfect. He also inspected each plate before it went out. We sat beside two food writers from Hong Kong. They chose the surprise menu and offered us their rabbit ribs. We declined their offer. We picked and chose because of our restrictions and loved everything. I think I ended up eating all of a fish dish which my daughter wouldn't eat. The food was delicious and fun. I wonder though how healthy all the liquid nitrogen and other chemical they use to get their effects,is. It cost about 100E, again with little drink but very ample food. The food writers were heading to Girona the next day to eat at the Roco Brothers, which they said was now considered the best restaurant in Spain (now that El Bulli is gone).

I have a new computer that is a bit finicky so I will close this post and start another one. I am afraid of losing this

ita

thank God I did this because I just lost the beginning of this post. I think my mouse needs adjustment.

We ate some meals at home with mostly prepared food which we bought at markets. We found a great Israeli stand at La Brouqueria. We also had a good lunch at the market. I forget exactly what-maybe crepes with interesting fillings. The vendor was lots of fun. I will ask my daughter for details.

The piece de resistance-Cinq Sentits. I heard of it on this forum but my main source of info was a culinary series on HGTV, called "To Spain With Love". I recommend it if you get a chance to see it in re runs. The maitre de said they get lots of referrals from that series.

The restaurant offers fixed menu-Nikki-no a la carte. There are 8 or nine courses, all small, but exquisite. I am not going to describe them as you can read Nikki's post or look at the menu. We did not get the wine pairings as we couldn't possibly dring that much, but it was fun to watch the other tables and listen to the wine descriptions. It cost $316 Canadian dollars, by far the most expensive meal I have ever had. (Thank God, my husband does not look at the MasterCard bill). No food is worth that amount, but the experience was. It was like a beautifully choreographed ballet. I will try to describe it: (to be continued, so I don't lose it)

ita

back to Cinc Sentits: there is just a small sign at the entrance and you would not show up without a reservation, made two weeks in advance and confirmed the day of eating (I think this is what they allow). It is a small place but the table are arranged so that they do not intrude on each other. There are 10 tables and 10 wait staff, all of whom attend to all the tables. Two tables are booked to arrive every half hour. Each course is beautifully plated and fully explained. (The wipe that arrived between courses was so pretty I would have eaten it if I hadn't been told not to). The service was seemless. I don't know how each of the staff knew where to go when, but they did and there were no stumbles. The meal took over 3 hours. We were not aware of the time. It was a great experience, I recommend it for a one time treat or for something special. The locals that were there, were obviously there for a special occasion. This was a highlight of our trip.

ita

while at Cinc Sentists, there was one couple I took note of-a very beautiful Spanish looking young woman,with a bloom on her face, who looked adoringly at her husband. He had the wine pairings, she did not. Obviously they were there to celebrate a pregnancy (that's what I decided). Another table was a group of Scandavian businessmen. I vicariously enjoyed their wine tastings. A couple from D.C. arrived at the same time as we did.

ira

Thanks for an interesting and helpful report.

Dave_Ohio

Interesting report. Thank you.

TDudette

Thank you, ita! I'm so sorry you were frightened off by some of the cautionary threads, but glad to hear you enjoyed your trip.

As I developed breathing issues, we started taking cabs to the most distance place on our agenda and slowly walked our way back.

ita

I am now reading "The Sorcerer's Apprentice" by Lisa Abend. I saw it mentioned on this site. It is about El Bulli-very interesting, a fun read.