Chania

At first I was thinking that a trip report would not be that useful as many days were spent with my partner's relatives (so not very many hotel nights)but I may have some useful information to share and as a way to thank those who helped with our itinerary, I will attempt a report. Itinerary:
Sept. 20 - 26th Mallorca
Sept. 27 & 28th Girona
Sept. 29 to Oct. 1 La Jonquera, Figueres, Besalu & Cistella
Oct. 2 - 5 Llanca (day trip to Couillours, France)
Oct. 6 - 9 Cadaques (day trip to Roses & L'Estartit)
Oct. 10 & 11 Barcelona
Oct. 12 - 14th Madrid
detail to come

Chania

Day 1 Sat. Sept. 20 after eating in a crowded popular local restaurant we headed to Manacor to watch the local team practice human castle building. My partner's(Greg)cousin was part of the team. His partner was observing as she is expecting a baby and it is too dangerous for her to participate. The building itself had an open roof so the castle height was not restricted. Under the stars and a baumy night we watched the castles climb up and up. The best part was watching the youngest ones scramble up the bodies of the adults with their bulbous black helmets protecting their heads should they fall or the castle collapse beneath them. On one castle a teenage girl's legs started to quiver and then shake. She gave the signal that she was coming down and the coach set to collapsing the castle for her descent. She was upset with herslf but received countless support from the others with always an arm around her shoulders.
http://ca.youtube.com/watch?v=3g1_LigcSIE
Day 2 From Sant Joan, where we were staying with Greg's cousin, they took us for a drive along the west coast of the island. We headed along the coastal road with beautiful views of the sea stopping for lunch in Valldemossa, a town inland. We ate at an Italian restaurant with a view over the valley below.
Day 3 Dropped off by cousin in Palma on his way to work, we buy hop on/off the bus tickets to explore Palma. Our first stop was to walk around the old section of town.

Chania

Back to day 1: The restaurant was near Vilafranca, called El cruce, which means the crossroad and the restaurant was at a crossroad just outside of Vilafranca. It was a huge place packed with locals and the food was great.
Back to day 2: Lunch was in Banyalbufar and the walk about was in the inland scenic town of Valldemossa.
Day 3: We mostly followed walking tours from travel books. One of the main reasons for taking the hop on/off bus was to get to the Castel de Bellver which is outside of Palma and avoid the long walk up from the local bus stop. We arrived at the castle, which is worth the trip for both the castle and views over Palma and the sea.
http://www.globosapiens.net/spain-tr...+Mallorca.html
We left the castle after a nice visit and headed to the bus stop. Moments later the rain started. About 12 tourists huddled under a tree. 4 teens pressed themselves up against the castle wall.Then the thunder and lightning started. We moved under a twiggy thing but we were soaked when the bus arrived after about 10 minutes. The bus stopped, it was full, no one got off and it pulled away. Everyone returned to their spots and waited another 15 minutes for the next bus. We were last and stood half in and half out of the bus while the driver persuaded the riders to move back and let us on. It stopped raining so the small group of us from the castle had to sit up top in the open air as the bus returned to Palma. Each time we went under a city tree, the rain would come down on us. The girl's sandals in the seat in front of me went sailing down the bus floor when we stopped. This is not supposed to happen in Mallorca! We headed for a restaurant and tried to dry our clothing in washroom with the hand dryer. It was another 2 hours before the train would take us back to Sant Joan. We made the best of it and headed down the ramblas of Palma.
Day 4: Dropped off again in Palma, we bought our train tickets for Soller. This is a vintage train that travels between Soller and Palma since 1912. When you get to Soller, you have the option of taking the electric tram down to the picturesque port and go further on a boat trip. We headed to the port and had a drink on the water front and then back up to the main square for lunch. The town of Soller and the port were nice to see. The return times were 2pm or 5:30pm which was too late for us to catch the train back to Sant Joan so we only had a couple of hours in Soller but it was a fun day. Oh,I almost forgot to say it rained on the train trip back to Palma. Sigh.
Day 4 Back to Palma for some serious sightseeing including lunch at a great historic hotel restaurant frequented by well heeled locals. We head by bus to the airport to pick up a car rental for the next 3 days.

annhig

ttt to read later

Chania

Day 5 Drove to Sineu for Wed. market day. This is a very large market spread through a number of streets and the main sq. From here we drove through Inca to the Monestary Lluc on the north coast. It began to pour rain so our visit was hurried and not so pleasant. It was recommended that we continue to the coast to Sa Calobra, however, due to the time and the rain we headed up the coast to Cap de Formentor, a must see for all visiting the island for the spectacular view. It is not necessary to take the road to the end of the Cap where there is a lighthouse, as the best view is from the road side statue and viewing/look out area of the Cap in
the distance.http://www.virtourist.com/europe/mallorca/06.htm. From there we headed to Port d Pollenca waterfront for something to eat. From there we drove along the coast to Ca'n Picafort and headed inland back to where we were staying.
Day 6 blue sky and lots of sun. Wasting no time we head along a pleasant interior road through Petra to Arta and then to Cala Rajada. We locate the town beach which is very crowded. Every tourist in the area is here after 4 bad weather days. We get something to eat on the waterfront and instead of exploring the town and the port we decide our deprived beach bodies want to head directly to the recommended beach a few klm north of town. The beach at Cala Agulla is much larger and nicer than the town beach and although there were lots of people, it was less crowded than in town. Every so may metres there was a food and drink place. There were washrooms and a parking lot. The beach was sandy and clean. The sand continued far out into the water. There was one rocky outcrop where you could with goggles spot some interesting small fish. The waves were great. We stayed at least 2 hours. It was hard to leave. We headed down the coastal road to the Caves d'Arta. We went to the exit and looked out over the sea. Having been in several caves before, even though this one is highly recommended, having been deprived of the sunshine, we decide we don't want to spend anytime inside a cave. Off we head down the coast to Porto Cristo. Along the waterfront are lots of cafes and restaurants overlooking a small harbour filled with boats. We stopped for a drink and something to eat. Then we headed inland to our place. We took cousin and partner to dinner in Petra at Ca sa Viuda restaurant (C/Pou, 37; tel 971 83 01 00) which cousin recommended and made reservations for. The food is local and well prepared.
Day 7 last day we head to Santuari de Cura on the way to the airport http://www.flickr.com/photos/alexand...er/2577410330/. From the top of this mountain "Randa" you have a wide view of the area down to the sea. From here we headed to the southern coast and tried to access S'Arenal waterfront but couldn't get close with the car and with limited time left we headed over to Ca'n Pastilla where we had success. Here we had our last look at Mallorca and had a drink at a waterfront restaurant. In season this beach would probably be packed but it was a long almost empty sandy beach even though it was warm and sunny and around noon. From here it was a short drive to the car rental return and to the airport. From here we would take Click Air to Barcelona. Click Air, I believe, is a budget airline owned by Iberia Air. They were great to fly with. No problems and they are expanding there destinations. We arrived in Barcelona on time at 4:30 pm. and were greeted by Uncle J and cousin S. Easy to reconize S as she was 7 months pregnant. Uncle J being a retired policeman, drove expertly fast to Girona. Counsin S was along to translate as Uncle J speaks no English. We arrive in Girona with a 3 course dinner waiting, Aunt R. works as a cook for a private school and whips up food enough to feed an army. We had to learn the Catalan word, PRO. It is supposed to mean, 'enough'.

Chania

Day 8 Girona - after a hardy 3 course breakfast- PRO! We head in 2 cars for the old city of Girona. Cousin D assumes the role of professional guide. We walk along the top of the old wall and descend to visit the Arab Baths. Today is a holiday and entrance is free. Regardless, I thought the visit very worthwhile. Very interesting and well described. The canal waterway with the colorful buildings hanging over the side reflecting in the water is an easy photographic moment. Cousin D points to where the photo is best captured. We walk the narrow streets and notice the restaurants and shops I would like to visit but alas a 3 course lunch will be waiting and the draw back of being with family is you are not on your own agenda. That awaits us. How Aunt R prepares a huge meal is a mystery as she is with us. Was she up all night? The day is sunny and warm. Before heading back for afternoon lunch Aunt R and Uncle J go into a butcher shop. Not wanting to miss the things I find interesting, we head into the shop which is filled with locals buying pork etc. The legs of curred pork with hooves attached sitting up on the counter is unlike anything I have seen before. I take a couple of pictures which I am sure the locals were thinking was an extremly strange thing to take a picture of. Back home for lunch. We head back into the city centre. I have told Cousin D that I want to buy wrapping paper or gift bag and a card for Cousin S's baby present from Canada. So the plot is devised. Partner Greg will say he wants to see the big Church and he will go with Aunt R and Counsin S and I want to do some shopping with Uncle J and cousin D. I am sure this all sounded strange to cousin S. who was the only one not knowing what was going on. Finally we got to the card store. No problem finding it. The time was spent trying to find a parking spot. Remembering the difficult time I had in Palma, Mallorca finding a gift bag and card, I bought 2 of both, knowing Cadaques would probably be even more challenging. We met up with the others in the main square in old town Girona for a drink. Back home to eat again and present Cousin S. with her gift from Canada. A ROOTS (made in Canada) baby clothing, white with yellow ducks because the sex of the baby was not known. Cousin S. held the clothes to her as Uncle J took the picture and e-mailed it back home to Partner Greg's family.

Chania

A photo of the Girona canal which runs through the middle of the town.
http://travel.webshots.com/photo/218...03100393lPTxDP. I have my own photos but being a bit of a luddite, I do not know how to attach them to this site.
Here is a photo of the Cathedral in Ghttp://www.traveladventures.org/continents/europe/images/girona03.jpgirona. The Arab baths in Girona http://www.traveladventures.org/cont...s/girona11.jpg
Next Day: La Jonquera

JulieVikmanis

Waiting for the Couilloure and Barcelona parts. Thanks for putting this all together. Lots of work.

Chania

Cathedral in Girona

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Girona's_Cathedral

annhig

hi chania,

I am still umming and erring about a possible trip to Barcelona between christmas and new year. one thing putting me off is the early flight back for which we'll have to catch a bus out of barcvelona at about 6am.

one alternative is to stay in girona for the last night; alternatively, stay there all three nights and just do a day trip to Barcelona.

is there enough to keep us amused for a day and a half?

regards, ann

Chania

The old part of Girona is really worth seeing. I wish we could have spent an afternoon wandering the narrow streets, which are closed to traffic, and explored some of the restaurants and shops. In the same area of the old town is the Agullana Mansion which is beautiful baroque architecture. In the evening there was a big open square filled with locals and outdoor cafes.
Taking the train to Barcelona couldn't have been easier. The train takes you right into the city without having to switch to a metro. We got off at Placa Catalunya and walked about 2 blocks to our hotel, Hotel Constanza. There were 2 reasons we chose to stay in Barcelona one night and that was because the last train leaving Barcelona for Girona would not have given us enough time to enjoy a dinner in Barcelona. The other reason was we knew that Uncle J would insist on taking us and picking us up at the train station and he was already doing so much for us. Our flight to Madrid was going to leave at 6 am from Barcelona but we were able to get a Ryanair flight from Girona to Madrid which left at 2:30 pm. Much better. Hope this helps.

Chania

Day 9 We really did offer to take the bus to Figueres or La Jonquera but it was futile. Uncle J was on the phone with Uncle P working out the plan. Uncle P and Aunt M would pick us up in Girona and take us to La Jonquera. After another 3 course breakfast we meet Greg's other aunt and uncle out in front of the house. Aunt M and Aunt R are distantly related but have never met before. They talk continuosly for about 20 minutes. It's neat that our visit has brought these people together. Off we head not for La Jonquera but for a visit to Sant Pere de Rodes, a mediaval monastery. Admission is free today for some reason. The monastery is up in the mountains in the Cap de Creus Park. The scenery is striking and the monestary interesting. From here Uncle P drives to Port de la Selva and then to Llanca to show us their summer apt. where we will stay for 4 days. http://www.planetware.com/i/photo/pu...oast-e1199.jpg
Then we head to La Jonquera. Aunt M points out where she works part time now that she is retired. It is the Museum Memorial de l'Exili (MUME).It is dedicated to refugees who fled across the Pyranees into France to escape Franco's forces after the Civil War in 1939. The museum is a real surprise. Very professionally done, interesting and interactive. I bought a T- shirt. On the back it says, "La Llibertat Viu Lluny D'Aqui, I Aixo Es L'Exili, William Shakespeare." Of course I now have forgotten what that means.

Chania

Day 10 Day trip to Beslau near Figueres. A very old and picturesque town worth a visit if in the area. The main square had a group of artists sketching. The bridge and its refection is a photographer's dream.
http://www.google.ca/imgres?imgurl=h...image&cd=1
Off to Cistella to meet another cousin and have afternoon dinner.
Day 11 Day trip to Figueres Dali museum and check out car rental companies.
http://www.salvador-dali.org/en_index.html
Not much of a line up to get in but crowded inside. This is Sept 30th, I can't imagine what the crowds would be like in the summer. Very interesting and quite extensive. Dali is supposed to be buried here while his wife is buried at their home in Port Lligat near Cadaques which we visited later in the trip.
Next we visit the bakery in Figueres where my partner's father lived above while his father operated the bakery.

Chania

Day 12 Off to Girona airport to pick up a 9 day car rental. The 3 car rental companies in Figueres were considerably more expensive than Auriga Crown www.aurigacrown.com and worth the extra time to drive to Girona. From here we follow Uncle P and Aunt M to Llanca. The view from the balcony of the apt. was identical to the post card I had bought. Over the red tiled roofs out to the sea with the port of Llanca in the distance. Beautiful. Llanca is split in 2 areas, the old town, town beach and port and the newer area with a sandy beach and one large hotel. Most of the this area is apt.'s, now empty as the season is over. There is only one variety/food store in this area and it too has closed for the season. It's a good thing we have the car rental.
The old town has a main square with a huge old tree in the middle known as "L'arbre de la Llibertat". The tree was planted in 1870 to commemorate freedom from France. The locals meet at a couple of cafes in this square, placa Major, under the tree. Also adding to the atmosphere in the square is a 14th century tower. We had dinner at restaurant Can Narra on the waterfront of the port, one of the restaurants listed in Rough Guide Costa Brava. The food was very good and the service excellent as well as the view of the boats and promenade.
http://www.restaurantcannarra.com/ingl/index.html

Chania

Day 13: spent the day in Llanca shopping for food etc., buying a toaster for the apt., exploring the town & checking out the train schedule for France; internet etc. and hearing on the news that the dreaded tramuntana winds were coming tonight and will affect our beach day long overdue. http://www.iberianature.com/spainblo...muntana-winds/
As the day progressed the winds began. At night the shutters shook so loud it was hard to sleep. I laid awake thinking we either spend the day boarded up in the apt. reading a book or watching TV or take the train to France and hope the weather will be better there. In the morning it took awhile to convince my partner that we should take a chance on a day trip to Coullours, Fr. It would be better than staying indoors all day in the apt.

Chania

Day 14: We drive to the nearby train station in Llanca and having sought out the train schedule ahead of time we catch the 9 am to Collioure.
http://www.collioure.com/gb/index-gb.htm
Since we are crossing the border into France and the train rail is a different width we must exit at Cerbere and then transfer to a French train to Collioure. On the way back we do the transfer in Port Bou. The walk into town from the train station is an easy 10 min. gentle slope downward towards the waterfront to the main sq. and then another easy 10 min. walk to the waterfront where the tourist office is. They provide a map and a suggested walking route through the little town and also they recommend the anchovy museum. First we follow the recommended route. I had to tell myself to slow down and stop taking so many pictures. Every few steps I was taking a picture. The town, even in Oct. was colourful with flowers and hanging vines. Very pretty. We saw the Church of Notre Dame on the waterfront, you just walk in to see the inside; further on the little white church out almost on the water and then the streets, houses and many shops that follow the water circulating back to the port. For lunch we went to Les Templiers, a hotel/rest. which had been recommended. It is on one of the main busy streets by the canal which goes down to the waterfront. Everyone was sitting inside at this hotel/rest. but we were so pleased to be out of the wind and in the warm sun that we chose to sit outside and people watch. The food was a hit and a miss. My salad was very good and a fair price. My partner's not so good. It was a few slices of tomatoes, toasted dry bread and a couple slices of catalan ham. Extememly overpriced for what he got. Then along came 4 French diners who were seated next to us even though the rest of the patio was empty. Then they asked the waiter to put down the awning. Now we had no view and no sun. We finished our meals quickly and left. Needless to say I would not recommend this place after the waiter just shrugged at us when we pointed to the awning. Then we walked the circle around the Chateau Royal which had some artists located against it's wall and the sea. The Chateau was buit on Roman foundations around 1376 and is quite a spectatular looking fortification. There is another beach on the other side of the Chateau which is probably popular when it is hotter. Then back for a sit down at the waterfront. With amusement we watched people move to tables closer and closer to the sea to keep in the sun. It was warm in the sun but not hot and the port was protected from the winds. The staff progressively put down umbrellas so that customers could catch the sun. Sitting there I noticed some people taking a picture at a large picture frame on the beach and I remembered seeing a photo on the web about a picture frame put up by the town to take the best picture of the tower on the waterfront.
http://www.trekearth.com/gallery/Eur...hoto111461.htm
From here we had time to take a quick visit to the Anchovy museum before heading back to the train station. The museum had a slide show set up & then some anchovy, olives & crackers for tasting and on the shelfs every possible product made from anchovies for sale. There was no entrance fee. Back in Llanca, Spain the wind was still blowing strong.