Trip Report -- Unforgettable Rome and Sicily
May 30th, 2005, 04:03 PM
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Trip Report -- Unforgettable Rome and Sicily
PART 1
Trip Report: Unforgettable Rome and Sicily
This is our 10th trip to Italy and 2nd trip to Sicily. Our itineraries always focus on ancient history, art, and archaeology, as classical studies are my passion as well as my academic background. Food, shopping, and everything else are always secondary to study and exploration. For photos of this trip, please see “Vatican, Rome & Sicily April-May 2005" at http://www.worldisround.com/articles/171609/index.htm
DAYS 1-5
We arrived on April 19, the day of the election of Pope Benedict XVI. It must have been divine providence that we arrived on that day, as we had purchased our airline tickets on July 1, 2004. Moreover, our departure to Sicily happened to be only 4 hours after the new Papa’s installation on April 24th. For an exciting account of these incredible experiences, please see Shutterbug’s report posted here as “Habemus papam.”
While not attending papal events, we focused on early Christian churches and art at St. Sabina with one of the earliest known representations of the Crucifixion and St. Prisca on the Aventine Hill, the Vatican museums, St. Peter’s scavi, San Giovanni e Paolo, and Santa Maria in Domnica. San Giovanni e Paolo on the Caelian Hill is particularly fascinating, as underneath is the sumptuous villa of a Roman senator, complete with frescoed walls and remnants of earlier Roman insulae (apartments) and shops. These Case Romane (http://www.caseromane.it) have recently been restored and reopened to the public along with an antiquarium. The nearby Villa Celimontana is one of Rome’s loveliest and most hidden gardens, ideal for a picnic.
Crypto Balbi was a wonderful surprise, as it documents the evolution of the area around Largo Argentina from ancient through medieval times and was far more interesting than I had heard.
DAY 6
After an exhilarating day in Rome where virtually all traffic was stopped, we finally made it to Leonardo Da Vinci for our AirOne flight to Catania. This is the second time we had flown on AirOne and fortunately encountered no problems, as we had booked our flights through the United website.
After picking up our rental car from AutoEurope, in which we are a firm believer, we drove to Giardini-Naxos to the beautiful Hotel Arathena Rocks located right on the beach. The public areas and rooms are packed with authentic Sicilian antiques lovingly collected by the hotel’s gracious owners. Our balcony overlooked the Ionian sea from where the next morning we saw dolphins frolicking amidst the rocks the ancients say the Cyclops Polyphemus hurled at the shepherd Acis for stealing Galatea’s heart.
The hotel is a wonderful find frequented primarily by Germans and serves a bountiful breakfast and typical Sicilian dinners with half-board, all with an incredible view of the Ionian sea. We chose to stay there rather than Taormina as Taormina is not fun to enter, park in, or exit. Besides, Giardini-Naxos was the first Greek colony established in Sicily and has a wonderful little antiquarium, incredible remains of a temple to Aphrodite, city walls and streets dated between the 7th and 6th centuries B.C., thus predating most of the other remains on the island. These ruins are located in an archaeological park filled with fragrant lemon and orange trees surrounded by mounds of wildflowers.
DAY 7
The next morning we drove to Mt. Etna from the east approach to see the lava flows near Refugio Sapienza that had occurred the day after our previous visit in Oct. 2002. The bar patio where we had enjoyed coffee on our previous trip was just a little smaller as the flow had covered just a bit more of it. The cable car has been rebuilt and takes passengers up to 2500 ft. The lower slopes of Etna were covered with incredible wild flowers, while the peaks were still covered in snow, an amazing contrast. On the way home to Giardini-Naxos, we encountered a herd of goats without their goat herder wandering the streets of Giarre, sampling the greenery from every hedge in town. Mind you, this is in the residential area of the town, with cars and goats mingling together without anyone giving them a second glance. There is often little separation of urban and rural in Sicily as we shall see later in Sciacca.
DAY 8
We visited Taormina again, our 2nd visit there. It is as impressive the 2nd time around as the first. Fortunately, there were relatively few tourists, no buses, and no cruise ships on the day we visited. At one point we had the entire theatre to ourselves. I had trouble tearing myself away from those ancient seats with the incredible view of Mt. Etna. The Greeks certainly knew how to position their theatres (i.e. Segesta, Tindari, Syracuse, etc.)
How peaceful Taormina is now compared to those ancient times when it was a center of a slave revolt and later the site of a naval battle between Pompey and Octavian. Of course, we also sought out the minor ancients sights here, such as the Roman Odeon and a modern structure with columns from a Roman temple.
Trip Report: Unforgettable Rome and Sicily
This is our 10th trip to Italy and 2nd trip to Sicily. Our itineraries always focus on ancient history, art, and archaeology, as classical studies are my passion as well as my academic background. Food, shopping, and everything else are always secondary to study and exploration. For photos of this trip, please see “Vatican, Rome & Sicily April-May 2005" at http://www.worldisround.com/articles/171609/index.htm
DAYS 1-5
We arrived on April 19, the day of the election of Pope Benedict XVI. It must have been divine providence that we arrived on that day, as we had purchased our airline tickets on July 1, 2004. Moreover, our departure to Sicily happened to be only 4 hours after the new Papa’s installation on April 24th. For an exciting account of these incredible experiences, please see Shutterbug’s report posted here as “Habemus papam.”
While not attending papal events, we focused on early Christian churches and art at St. Sabina with one of the earliest known representations of the Crucifixion and St. Prisca on the Aventine Hill, the Vatican museums, St. Peter’s scavi, San Giovanni e Paolo, and Santa Maria in Domnica. San Giovanni e Paolo on the Caelian Hill is particularly fascinating, as underneath is the sumptuous villa of a Roman senator, complete with frescoed walls and remnants of earlier Roman insulae (apartments) and shops. These Case Romane (http://www.caseromane.it) have recently been restored and reopened to the public along with an antiquarium. The nearby Villa Celimontana is one of Rome’s loveliest and most hidden gardens, ideal for a picnic.
Crypto Balbi was a wonderful surprise, as it documents the evolution of the area around Largo Argentina from ancient through medieval times and was far more interesting than I had heard.
DAY 6
After an exhilarating day in Rome where virtually all traffic was stopped, we finally made it to Leonardo Da Vinci for our AirOne flight to Catania. This is the second time we had flown on AirOne and fortunately encountered no problems, as we had booked our flights through the United website.
After picking up our rental car from AutoEurope, in which we are a firm believer, we drove to Giardini-Naxos to the beautiful Hotel Arathena Rocks located right on the beach. The public areas and rooms are packed with authentic Sicilian antiques lovingly collected by the hotel’s gracious owners. Our balcony overlooked the Ionian sea from where the next morning we saw dolphins frolicking amidst the rocks the ancients say the Cyclops Polyphemus hurled at the shepherd Acis for stealing Galatea’s heart.
The hotel is a wonderful find frequented primarily by Germans and serves a bountiful breakfast and typical Sicilian dinners with half-board, all with an incredible view of the Ionian sea. We chose to stay there rather than Taormina as Taormina is not fun to enter, park in, or exit. Besides, Giardini-Naxos was the first Greek colony established in Sicily and has a wonderful little antiquarium, incredible remains of a temple to Aphrodite, city walls and streets dated between the 7th and 6th centuries B.C., thus predating most of the other remains on the island. These ruins are located in an archaeological park filled with fragrant lemon and orange trees surrounded by mounds of wildflowers.
DAY 7
The next morning we drove to Mt. Etna from the east approach to see the lava flows near Refugio Sapienza that had occurred the day after our previous visit in Oct. 2002. The bar patio where we had enjoyed coffee on our previous trip was just a little smaller as the flow had covered just a bit more of it. The cable car has been rebuilt and takes passengers up to 2500 ft. The lower slopes of Etna were covered with incredible wild flowers, while the peaks were still covered in snow, an amazing contrast. On the way home to Giardini-Naxos, we encountered a herd of goats without their goat herder wandering the streets of Giarre, sampling the greenery from every hedge in town. Mind you, this is in the residential area of the town, with cars and goats mingling together without anyone giving them a second glance. There is often little separation of urban and rural in Sicily as we shall see later in Sciacca.
DAY 8
We visited Taormina again, our 2nd visit there. It is as impressive the 2nd time around as the first. Fortunately, there were relatively few tourists, no buses, and no cruise ships on the day we visited. At one point we had the entire theatre to ourselves. I had trouble tearing myself away from those ancient seats with the incredible view of Mt. Etna. The Greeks certainly knew how to position their theatres (i.e. Segesta, Tindari, Syracuse, etc.)
How peaceful Taormina is now compared to those ancient times when it was a center of a slave revolt and later the site of a naval battle between Pompey and Octavian. Of course, we also sought out the minor ancients sights here, such as the Roman Odeon and a modern structure with columns from a Roman temple.
May 30th, 2005, 04:05 PM
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PART 2
DAY 9
We drove to Milazzo to take the ferry to the Aeolian Islands. Milazzo is a bustling, dense, and very tourist-unfriendly city. The people are great at the TI once you find it, but there are virtually no signs or other tourist information readily visible. Parking, departing on the ferries, and determining the port at which you are arriving challenges even veteran travelers, as all must be done without the benefit of any signage. No sign indicating the name of the port you ask? Yes, indeed! No signs and no announcements.
Once you arrive, Lipari is lovely. The archaeological museum definitely rates as one on the best in Italy and the primary reason we traveled to the Aeolians. Arranged in several buildings atop the acropolis inhabited since the 5th millennium B.C., its enormous collections of tombs, pottery, and amphorae from nearby shipwrecks testify to the wave after wave of immigration and invasion from Greece, Rome, Normandy, and Spain. There is a fascinating collection of theatre masks and figurines of characters from the plays of Sophocles, Euripides, Aristophanes, and Menander. Some of these document plays whose texts are no longer extant. I’ve not seen a collection like this before in our many visits to archaeological museums. There are also several Greek vases painted in pastels by a Lipari painter who is the only known painter from the ancient world to have used these colors. Everything is well-labeled in both Italian and excellent English. It is definitely not to be missed!
In Lipari we stayed at Mendolita Residence in a studio apartment complete with a kitchenette. We enjoyed our evening meal, gathered from a local alimentari and take-away place, on our lovely porch covered in fragrant wisteria set in bountiful gardens. The private gardens on Lipari are breathtaking—daisies the size of hedges, incredible roses, and oh-so-fragrant angel trumpets, geraniums that just don’t quit, rosemary, and basil. An unexpected highlight of our stay was a nighttime power failure. We now understand how the ancients were able to navigate by the stars. Incredible to behold.
DAY 10
Early the next morning we took a ferry to Stromboli, passing the ever-erupting Volcano and watching donkeys climbing the winding paths of Ginostra.
Stromboli is a sight to behold, with steam and puffs of smoke constantly pouring from the crater, visible even in the daylight. We hiked up the San Vincenzo trail, blanketed with every kind of wildflower imaginable. The view, of course, was indescribable. Stromboli reminded me a bit of Santorini, with its whitewashed buildings. A fellow passenger on the ferry was a fisher monger from Lipari, who hauls his fish to sell on Stromboli. Later we met him everywhere on the island, hawking his fish from an Ape, his voice straining to shout, “Pesce, gambieri,” etc. Around every corner, we also encountered 2 typically handsome Carabinieri, who repeatedly reminded us that the last ferry back to Lipari was 15:45, as the ferry runs infrequently at this time of the year. But it also means we almost had the island to ourselves, except of course for our Carabinieri friends and the fisherman.
DAY 11
Departing early from Lipari, we drove from Milazzo to Tindari, a wonderful Greek-turned Roman town, complete with remains of Roman houses, baths, mosaics, and a Greek theatre perched high on the apex of a mountain overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea. This ancient site is relatively unvisited, save for the grazing cattle and the pilgrims visiting the huge sanctuary, visible for miles around, containing the Byzantine statue of the Black Madonna. See what I mean about little separation of urban and rural!
From Tindari, we made our way to Cefalu on SS113. This is a major coastal highway, which suddenly with no warning dumps you onto an extremely narrow medieval road (probably a goat path) packed with parked cars, Apes covered with artichokes, pedestrians with luggage and bundles of all sorts, groups of children returning from school, and fishermen selling their catch from the back on the back of a Vespa complete with a scale. But we did manage to find out how cars were able to travel down the street in front of our convent, something we had never figured out on our first trip to Cefalu. I have to admit we returned to Cefalu primarily to stay at one of my favorite convents in all of Italy.
The convent is located in the centro storico of the old fishing village, right on the Tyrrhenian Sea. All night long we could hear the sea lapping against the volcanic rock on which the medieval convent is built. We saw incredible sunsets and fishermen outside our windows through the night and early morning. During our last visit in 2002, the nuns were beautifully restoring the convent and converting one floor into guest rooms. They are very gracious and struggle to understand our limited “mainland” Italian. The rooms are quite small but very reasonable, so this trip we rented two, one for storage and bathing and one for sleeping! Nearby restaurants with beautiful patios on the sea abound.
The Duomo, whose mosaics of Christ Pancreator rival those of Monreale, is located in one of the most picturesque piazzas in all of Italy. It is breathtaking all times of the day, but particularly so at night.
DAY 12
We actually took it easy today. Tim was shocked! In the afternoon we visited the ancient site of Himera, only a short distance from Cefalu. Here there is an incredible museum on 4 floors and the remains of the 5th century acropolis and temple, destroyed like Selinunte by the Carthaginians in the 5th century B.C.. This site was so deserted the museum staff, who outnumbered us 3 to 1, had to turn the lights on for us! What a shame visitors do not seek out these less touristy, but very rewarding places.
DAY 13
We drove through Palermo to medieval Erice. The gods were with us on two counts. Because it was a holiday (May 1), the streets of Palermo were almost deserted and the so called “veil of Venus” did not cover Erice. It was a totally clear and sunny day. We are not “foodies,” but we did immensely enjoy the wonderful cassata and bucellati de fichi, along with assorted other goodies we just had to try at La Pasticceria Maria Grammatico.
From Erice, we sailed our way down the western coast of the island, past Mozia and Marsala. I had never in my life seen anything as deserted as Marsala on May 1. We could count the number of people on the streets with one hand. I guess everybody was on the eastern side of the island that day from what I hear.
Arriving in Sciacca, we greeted by huge floats in the shapes of monsters and dragons in various hues of pink and purple. Low and behold Carnivale had been postponed from February to May because of construction in the center of town. Closed streets made finding Verdetechnica, our Sicilian farmhouse, more challenging than I hear it usually is. But Tim is such an excellent navigator we arrived relatively easily, after passing a group of donkeys along the way.
Verdetechnica is perched high on a hill overlooking fields of flowers and the Mediterranean Sea. Our apartment had an original wood-burning oven and was equipped with everything to cook even a Thanksgiving meal, including those little Italian expresso coffee pots I had long wondered how to use. Now I know. We were surprised it came with our very own cat who demanded to be fed every morning precisely at 8. The owners are a very gracious couple, offering us drinks, pasta, and tomato sauce from their own pantry, as EVERYTHING except for a few restaurants which we were too tired to seek out, is closed on May 1. The enormous peach-colored angel trumpet shrub in our garden patio was so fragrant we could smell it through closed windows and doors.
DAY 9
We drove to Milazzo to take the ferry to the Aeolian Islands. Milazzo is a bustling, dense, and very tourist-unfriendly city. The people are great at the TI once you find it, but there are virtually no signs or other tourist information readily visible. Parking, departing on the ferries, and determining the port at which you are arriving challenges even veteran travelers, as all must be done without the benefit of any signage. No sign indicating the name of the port you ask? Yes, indeed! No signs and no announcements.
Once you arrive, Lipari is lovely. The archaeological museum definitely rates as one on the best in Italy and the primary reason we traveled to the Aeolians. Arranged in several buildings atop the acropolis inhabited since the 5th millennium B.C., its enormous collections of tombs, pottery, and amphorae from nearby shipwrecks testify to the wave after wave of immigration and invasion from Greece, Rome, Normandy, and Spain. There is a fascinating collection of theatre masks and figurines of characters from the plays of Sophocles, Euripides, Aristophanes, and Menander. Some of these document plays whose texts are no longer extant. I’ve not seen a collection like this before in our many visits to archaeological museums. There are also several Greek vases painted in pastels by a Lipari painter who is the only known painter from the ancient world to have used these colors. Everything is well-labeled in both Italian and excellent English. It is definitely not to be missed!
In Lipari we stayed at Mendolita Residence in a studio apartment complete with a kitchenette. We enjoyed our evening meal, gathered from a local alimentari and take-away place, on our lovely porch covered in fragrant wisteria set in bountiful gardens. The private gardens on Lipari are breathtaking—daisies the size of hedges, incredible roses, and oh-so-fragrant angel trumpets, geraniums that just don’t quit, rosemary, and basil. An unexpected highlight of our stay was a nighttime power failure. We now understand how the ancients were able to navigate by the stars. Incredible to behold.
DAY 10
Early the next morning we took a ferry to Stromboli, passing the ever-erupting Volcano and watching donkeys climbing the winding paths of Ginostra.
Stromboli is a sight to behold, with steam and puffs of smoke constantly pouring from the crater, visible even in the daylight. We hiked up the San Vincenzo trail, blanketed with every kind of wildflower imaginable. The view, of course, was indescribable. Stromboli reminded me a bit of Santorini, with its whitewashed buildings. A fellow passenger on the ferry was a fisher monger from Lipari, who hauls his fish to sell on Stromboli. Later we met him everywhere on the island, hawking his fish from an Ape, his voice straining to shout, “Pesce, gambieri,” etc. Around every corner, we also encountered 2 typically handsome Carabinieri, who repeatedly reminded us that the last ferry back to Lipari was 15:45, as the ferry runs infrequently at this time of the year. But it also means we almost had the island to ourselves, except of course for our Carabinieri friends and the fisherman.
DAY 11
Departing early from Lipari, we drove from Milazzo to Tindari, a wonderful Greek-turned Roman town, complete with remains of Roman houses, baths, mosaics, and a Greek theatre perched high on the apex of a mountain overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea. This ancient site is relatively unvisited, save for the grazing cattle and the pilgrims visiting the huge sanctuary, visible for miles around, containing the Byzantine statue of the Black Madonna. See what I mean about little separation of urban and rural!
From Tindari, we made our way to Cefalu on SS113. This is a major coastal highway, which suddenly with no warning dumps you onto an extremely narrow medieval road (probably a goat path) packed with parked cars, Apes covered with artichokes, pedestrians with luggage and bundles of all sorts, groups of children returning from school, and fishermen selling their catch from the back on the back of a Vespa complete with a scale. But we did manage to find out how cars were able to travel down the street in front of our convent, something we had never figured out on our first trip to Cefalu. I have to admit we returned to Cefalu primarily to stay at one of my favorite convents in all of Italy.
The convent is located in the centro storico of the old fishing village, right on the Tyrrhenian Sea. All night long we could hear the sea lapping against the volcanic rock on which the medieval convent is built. We saw incredible sunsets and fishermen outside our windows through the night and early morning. During our last visit in 2002, the nuns were beautifully restoring the convent and converting one floor into guest rooms. They are very gracious and struggle to understand our limited “mainland” Italian. The rooms are quite small but very reasonable, so this trip we rented two, one for storage and bathing and one for sleeping! Nearby restaurants with beautiful patios on the sea abound.
The Duomo, whose mosaics of Christ Pancreator rival those of Monreale, is located in one of the most picturesque piazzas in all of Italy. It is breathtaking all times of the day, but particularly so at night.
DAY 12
We actually took it easy today. Tim was shocked! In the afternoon we visited the ancient site of Himera, only a short distance from Cefalu. Here there is an incredible museum on 4 floors and the remains of the 5th century acropolis and temple, destroyed like Selinunte by the Carthaginians in the 5th century B.C.. This site was so deserted the museum staff, who outnumbered us 3 to 1, had to turn the lights on for us! What a shame visitors do not seek out these less touristy, but very rewarding places.
DAY 13
We drove through Palermo to medieval Erice. The gods were with us on two counts. Because it was a holiday (May 1), the streets of Palermo were almost deserted and the so called “veil of Venus” did not cover Erice. It was a totally clear and sunny day. We are not “foodies,” but we did immensely enjoy the wonderful cassata and bucellati de fichi, along with assorted other goodies we just had to try at La Pasticceria Maria Grammatico.
From Erice, we sailed our way down the western coast of the island, past Mozia and Marsala. I had never in my life seen anything as deserted as Marsala on May 1. We could count the number of people on the streets with one hand. I guess everybody was on the eastern side of the island that day from what I hear.
Arriving in Sciacca, we greeted by huge floats in the shapes of monsters and dragons in various hues of pink and purple. Low and behold Carnivale had been postponed from February to May because of construction in the center of town. Closed streets made finding Verdetechnica, our Sicilian farmhouse, more challenging than I hear it usually is. But Tim is such an excellent navigator we arrived relatively easily, after passing a group of donkeys along the way.
Verdetechnica is perched high on a hill overlooking fields of flowers and the Mediterranean Sea. Our apartment had an original wood-burning oven and was equipped with everything to cook even a Thanksgiving meal, including those little Italian expresso coffee pots I had long wondered how to use. Now I know. We were surprised it came with our very own cat who demanded to be fed every morning precisely at 8. The owners are a very gracious couple, offering us drinks, pasta, and tomato sauce from their own pantry, as EVERYTHING except for a few restaurants which we were too tired to seek out, is closed on May 1. The enormous peach-colored angel trumpet shrub in our garden patio was so fragrant we could smell it through closed windows and doors.
May 30th, 2005, 04:06 PM
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PART 3
DAY 14
SELINUNTE! SELINUNTE!! SELINUNTE!!! What a sight to behold! On our previous trip in 2002, we had primarily visited the lower plain, which contains the only resurrected temple and the enormous remains of the temple of Jupiter whose columns, bases, and pediments are scattered on the ground like a pile of pickup-sticks. This time we decided to focus on the acropolis and the far reaches of the town to get a sense of the entire ancient city. How rewarding that decision was.
The entire plain was blanketed with wild yellow and white chrysanthemums as well as poppies, purple thistles, and every other wildflower found in the region. Amazing! There is a large sanctuary to Demeter and Persephone on the perimeter of town that few visitors take the time to see. Around the acropolis the Greeks had built massive walls to defend themselves against the Carthaginians, but to no avail. Soon the Carthaginians were living in the sacred temple areas of the Greeks, leaving behind primitive mosaics in shrines to their gods.
A word of advice. DO NOT short change your visit to Selinunte. It is definitely worth an entire day and in some ways surpasses Agrigento because of its incredible location on the sea and because it gives the visitor an excellent impression of the size and layout of a wealthy Greek city.
DAY 15
On the way to Palermo to catch the overnight ferry back to Rome we stopped at Segesta. We’d been to Segesta before, but one cannot get enough of its beautiful Doric temple and theatre perched high on a hill in the middle of nowhere. This trip the temple area was covered with wildflowers as far as the eye could see. Incredible. An extra treat is that you can actually climb in and around the temple, as at Selinunte, but unlike Agrigento.
We dropped our car off at the port office in downtown Palermo! Again kudos to Tim for his superb driving and navigation. Could never do these trips without him! We boarded our overnight ferry back to Civitavecchia. Did I say ferry? It should be called a cruise ship as it has four enormous garages which can hold countless semis, tour buses, John Deere farm equipment and cars in its bowels, several restaurants, a theater, casino, 2 pools, and innumerable amenities. The staterooms are extremely comfortable with a full bath, air-conditioning, TV, etc. I wholeheartedly recommend this as a relaxing and stress-free alternative to AirOne. Leave Palermo at 20:00, arrive Civitavecchia at 8:00 refreshed and relaxed to return to Rome.
DAY 16-DAY 17
Last-minute strolls around Rome to see our familiar friends, the Temple of Castor and Pollux with wisteria everywhere, the Pantheon, Trevi, the Spanish Steps (this time covered in all shades of azaleas), the Caravaggios at St. Maria di Popolo, and St. Maria Maggiore.
A new favorite was the 3rd century mosaic in the church of Santa Pudenziana depicting Christ looking very much like as Jupiter and the apostles dressed as Roman senators. I also took time for some jewelry shopping and discovered a perfect souvenir for myself and my sister—composable Nomination Italian charm bracelets with 18K gold charms of Roman sights like the Colosseo, the Pantheon, and Trevi.
DAY 18
Fine perfecto a viaggio perfecto. Arrivederchi, Roma. (Until Fall 2005; we’re going back, again.)
Practical Information:
Lodging
Rome
Instituto Santa Giulianna Faconeri
This lovely convent, located ideally very near Piazza Navona and Campo de Fiori, is run by Servite nuns headed by Sister Kathyrn from Chicago. We have stayed here several times and always enjoyed the house and the Sisters’ hospitality.
via Calasanzio, 1
Rome 00186
Phone (06) 688 03344
Fax (06) 687 1471 [email protected]
Giarnini-Naxos
Hotel Arathena
http://www.hotelarathena.com/
Lipari
Mendolita Albergo Residence
http://www.mendolita.it/
Cefalu
Collegio di Maria
http://www.conventisicilia.it
Transportation
Very economical transporation from Leonardo Da Vinci airport to Piazza Navona, Largo Argentina area:
From the same station area where the Leonardo Da Vinci Express departs, take the locale train marked Farina to Stazione Trastevere. Exit the station and walk out to the street to the newstand where you can buy Metro tickets for 1 ride or multiple days if the nearby machine is not working. Take the number 8 tram to Largo Argentina, the last stop. You're there for 5 euros plus the cost of the Metro ticket. The tram is fast and easier to board with luggage than a bus.
Aeolian Islands ferry schedules:
http://www.eolnet.it/eng/raggiungereeolie.asp
Traghetto from Palermo to Civitavecchia: Grandi Navi Veloci at http://www1.grimaldi.it/
Parking garage at Milazzo
Mazzu Autonoleggi
Via XX Luglio 18/22
Milazzo (ME
090.9224262
090.9284000 (fax)
DAY 14
SELINUNTE! SELINUNTE!! SELINUNTE!!! What a sight to behold! On our previous trip in 2002, we had primarily visited the lower plain, which contains the only resurrected temple and the enormous remains of the temple of Jupiter whose columns, bases, and pediments are scattered on the ground like a pile of pickup-sticks. This time we decided to focus on the acropolis and the far reaches of the town to get a sense of the entire ancient city. How rewarding that decision was.
The entire plain was blanketed with wild yellow and white chrysanthemums as well as poppies, purple thistles, and every other wildflower found in the region. Amazing! There is a large sanctuary to Demeter and Persephone on the perimeter of town that few visitors take the time to see. Around the acropolis the Greeks had built massive walls to defend themselves against the Carthaginians, but to no avail. Soon the Carthaginians were living in the sacred temple areas of the Greeks, leaving behind primitive mosaics in shrines to their gods.
A word of advice. DO NOT short change your visit to Selinunte. It is definitely worth an entire day and in some ways surpasses Agrigento because of its incredible location on the sea and because it gives the visitor an excellent impression of the size and layout of a wealthy Greek city.
DAY 15
On the way to Palermo to catch the overnight ferry back to Rome we stopped at Segesta. We’d been to Segesta before, but one cannot get enough of its beautiful Doric temple and theatre perched high on a hill in the middle of nowhere. This trip the temple area was covered with wildflowers as far as the eye could see. Incredible. An extra treat is that you can actually climb in and around the temple, as at Selinunte, but unlike Agrigento.
We dropped our car off at the port office in downtown Palermo! Again kudos to Tim for his superb driving and navigation. Could never do these trips without him! We boarded our overnight ferry back to Civitavecchia. Did I say ferry? It should be called a cruise ship as it has four enormous garages which can hold countless semis, tour buses, John Deere farm equipment and cars in its bowels, several restaurants, a theater, casino, 2 pools, and innumerable amenities. The staterooms are extremely comfortable with a full bath, air-conditioning, TV, etc. I wholeheartedly recommend this as a relaxing and stress-free alternative to AirOne. Leave Palermo at 20:00, arrive Civitavecchia at 8:00 refreshed and relaxed to return to Rome.
DAY 16-DAY 17
Last-minute strolls around Rome to see our familiar friends, the Temple of Castor and Pollux with wisteria everywhere, the Pantheon, Trevi, the Spanish Steps (this time covered in all shades of azaleas), the Caravaggios at St. Maria di Popolo, and St. Maria Maggiore.
A new favorite was the 3rd century mosaic in the church of Santa Pudenziana depicting Christ looking very much like as Jupiter and the apostles dressed as Roman senators. I also took time for some jewelry shopping and discovered a perfect souvenir for myself and my sister—composable Nomination Italian charm bracelets with 18K gold charms of Roman sights like the Colosseo, the Pantheon, and Trevi.
DAY 18
Fine perfecto a viaggio perfecto. Arrivederchi, Roma. (Until Fall 2005; we’re going back, again.)
Practical Information:
Lodging
Rome
Instituto Santa Giulianna Faconeri
This lovely convent, located ideally very near Piazza Navona and Campo de Fiori, is run by Servite nuns headed by Sister Kathyrn from Chicago. We have stayed here several times and always enjoyed the house and the Sisters’ hospitality.
via Calasanzio, 1
Rome 00186
Phone (06) 688 03344
Fax (06) 687 1471 [email protected]
Giarnini-Naxos
Hotel Arathena
http://www.hotelarathena.com/
Lipari
Mendolita Albergo Residence
http://www.mendolita.it/
Cefalu
Collegio di Maria
http://www.conventisicilia.it
Transportation
Very economical transporation from Leonardo Da Vinci airport to Piazza Navona, Largo Argentina area:
From the same station area where the Leonardo Da Vinci Express departs, take the locale train marked Farina to Stazione Trastevere. Exit the station and walk out to the street to the newstand where you can buy Metro tickets for 1 ride or multiple days if the nearby machine is not working. Take the number 8 tram to Largo Argentina, the last stop. You're there for 5 euros plus the cost of the Metro ticket. The tram is fast and easier to board with luggage than a bus.
Aeolian Islands ferry schedules:
http://www.eolnet.it/eng/raggiungereeolie.asp
Traghetto from Palermo to Civitavecchia: Grandi Navi Veloci at http://www1.grimaldi.it/
Parking garage at Milazzo
Mazzu Autonoleggi
Via XX Luglio 18/22
Milazzo (ME
090.9224262
090.9284000 (fax)
May 30th, 2005, 04:39 PM
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Lovely report -- thank you.
I think it's the first one I've seen that mentions the early Christian churches of Rome, which are a particular interest of mine.
Unfortunately, I do not drive, so I have not been able to visit the less accessible archeological sites in Sicily or devote as much time as I would have liked to the ones that I have been able to visit on a tour.
I think it's the first one I've seen that mentions the early Christian churches of Rome, which are a particular interest of mine.
Unfortunately, I do not drive, so I have not been able to visit the less accessible archeological sites in Sicily or devote as much time as I would have liked to the ones that I have been able to visit on a tour.
May 31st, 2005, 09:14 AM
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CORRECTION: For photos of this trip please go to: http://www.worldisround.com/articles/171609/index.html
May 31st, 2005, 11:57 AM
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Athena: This is one of the best trip reports I have ever read. I have lived in Rome and love Italy - and from the enthusiasm of your report, you must love it also! Do post your next trip. We will be traveling to Sicily over Christmas 2005 and plan to follow in many of your footsteps. Grazie molto!
May 31st, 2005, 12:32 PM
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Athena, thanks to you I have not even started the laundry! Your trip report had me enthralled. Thank you so much. And the photos. Athena I have many books on Italy, I have collected them for decades, and I can sincerely say there is not one book (as beautiful as they are) that have photos that are any better then yours and Tim's. I felt like I was there at St. Peters, in Sicily, in Rome. And the flowers (a particular love of mine), oh the flowers! When I think of Italy the first thing that comes to mind is the variety and vibrancy of their flowers. Sometimes when I have not been in Italy for awhile I tell myself that I am overstating how beautiful their flowers are. But no, I am not.
My sincere thanks to both of you for the pleasurable two hours I have just spent. Your other trip photos were enjoyed also. I bookmarked your website btw. It is a keeper. Best regards.
My sincere thanks to both of you for the pleasurable two hours I have just spent. Your other trip photos were enjoyed also. I bookmarked your website btw. It is a keeper. Best regards.
Jun 1st, 2005, 06:35 PM
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Eloise,
Thanks for your kind words. By the way, I loved your description of Sicily as a palimpsest. How appropriate.
The early Christian churches in Rome are truly remarkable. The transitional period between paganism and Christianity as reflected in the art and architecture is fascinating, i.e. Christ pictured as Apollo in St. Peter’s scavi. Have you been to Ravenna or Aquileia to see the early churches and incredible mosaics there? They are spectacular.
Thanks for your kind words. By the way, I loved your description of Sicily as a palimpsest. How appropriate.
The early Christian churches in Rome are truly remarkable. The transitional period between paganism and Christianity as reflected in the art and architecture is fascinating, i.e. Christ pictured as Apollo in St. Peter’s scavi. Have you been to Ravenna or Aquileia to see the early churches and incredible mosaics there? They are spectacular.
Jun 1st, 2005, 06:38 PM
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bobthenavigator,
Thanks, Bob. I enjoyed your report very much. Yes, we were in Sicily just about the same time. I was there April 24-May 1. I’ve been to /sicily in the fall, but it cannot compare to April/May.
Thanks, Bob. I enjoyed your report very much. Yes, we were in Sicily just about the same time. I was there April 24-May 1. I’ve been to /sicily in the fall, but it cannot compare to April/May.
Jun 1st, 2005, 06:41 PM
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Nikki,
Sicily is not to be missed. Do hope you can go. I loved Eloise’s description of it on another post as a palimpsest. That it truly is. Something for everyone from every time period and many civilizations.
Sicily is not to be missed. Do hope you can go. I loved Eloise’s description of it on another post as a palimpsest. That it truly is. Something for everyone from every time period and many civilizations.
Jun 1st, 2005, 06:45 PM
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Travelnaia,
Thank you for your kind words. I’ve really do love Italy and have a goal to travel to the far reaches of the Roman Empire to see as many extant remains as possible in a lifetime. Guess I’d better get moving.
Thank you for your kind words. I’ve really do love Italy and have a goal to travel to the far reaches of the Roman Empire to see as many extant remains as possible in a lifetime. Guess I’d better get moving.
Jun 1st, 2005, 06:48 PM
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LoveItaly,
Thank you for the many compliments. To give credit where credit is due, Shutterbug is the fabulous photographer and adventurous, daring driver. I’m the classicist, researcher, and trip planner. We complement each other beautifully.
Thank you for the many compliments. To give credit where credit is due, Shutterbug is the fabulous photographer and adventurous, daring driver. I’m the classicist, researcher, and trip planner. We complement each other beautifully.
Jun 1st, 2005, 06:50 PM
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AP6380,
Actually there is an amusing anecdote to renting Monica. I had emailed first, but did not hear back because Verdetecnica’s message was filtered out. Then Shutterbug emailed requesting Monica also, but was told another couple from Illinois had already rented it for the very same dates. This sounded fishy to us so Shutterbug asked if the other party was Athena. Verdetecnica replied: “Yes, Sir. The other couple is your wife.”
Actually there is an amusing anecdote to renting Monica. I had emailed first, but did not hear back because Verdetecnica’s message was filtered out. Then Shutterbug emailed requesting Monica also, but was told another couple from Illinois had already rented it for the very same dates. This sounded fishy to us so Shutterbug asked if the other party was Athena. Verdetecnica replied: “Yes, Sir. The other couple is your wife.”
Jun 1st, 2005, 06:53 PM
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Athena, now it's my turn to thank you for your kind words.
Just two weeks ago I took the Scavi tour for the first time and saw the Christ/Apollo image you mention.
I was in Ravenna many years ago and loved the mosaics. I remember taking a tiny commuter train early one morning from Ravenna to see Sant'Apollinare in Classe. (Would you be interested in fiction that deals in part with Byzantine mosaics? "Sailing to Sarantium" by Guy Gabriel Kay, out in paper, is quite good.) I've never been to Aquileia, unfortunately.
As for the blend of pagan and Christian motifs, I think my utter favourite is Santa Costanza, behind Sant'Agnese fuori le Mura. Scenes of putti -- but wingless, if I recall correctly -- making wine, and lovely still lifes of vines and fruits. I know some scholars have gone to great trouble to interpret them as Christian symbols, but I'm not totally convinced...
Just two weeks ago I took the Scavi tour for the first time and saw the Christ/Apollo image you mention.
I was in Ravenna many years ago and loved the mosaics. I remember taking a tiny commuter train early one morning from Ravenna to see Sant'Apollinare in Classe. (Would you be interested in fiction that deals in part with Byzantine mosaics? "Sailing to Sarantium" by Guy Gabriel Kay, out in paper, is quite good.) I've never been to Aquileia, unfortunately.
As for the blend of pagan and Christian motifs, I think my utter favourite is Santa Costanza, behind Sant'Agnese fuori le Mura. Scenes of putti -- but wingless, if I recall correctly -- making wine, and lovely still lifes of vines and fruits. I know some scholars have gone to great trouble to interpret them as Christian symbols, but I'm not totally convinced...
Jun 1st, 2005, 07:29 PM
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Eloise,
I'm definitely putting Santa Constanza on my list for our next trip.
The entire floor of the basilica at Aquileia is a 4th century mosaic in which classical motifs are freely mingled with Old and New Testament stories, such as Jonah and the Whale, looking very much like Dionysus with ivy and grape vines. By the way, Aquileia is easily reached by train and local bus from Venice.
I'll look for the title you suggest. I'm a librarian so I'll have no touble getting it.
I'm definitely putting Santa Constanza on my list for our next trip.
The entire floor of the basilica at Aquileia is a 4th century mosaic in which classical motifs are freely mingled with Old and New Testament stories, such as Jonah and the Whale, looking very much like Dionysus with ivy and grape vines. By the way, Aquileia is easily reached by train and local bus from Venice.
I'll look for the title you suggest. I'm a librarian so I'll have no touble getting it.
