allysone

I am traveling to the Amalfi Coast for two weeks beginning in mid-Sepetember. I have read that the buses are extremely hot, very crowded and the ride is uncomfortable.. I am in my mid-60s and traveling with a very active 87 year old friend. If the buses are an unpleasant way to travel, which towns are connected to Positano by ferry?
Also, we will have a driver for one day. What towns or sites ( excluding Naples, Pompeii, Herculaneum and Stabiae) should we visit with a driver? We love good museums, gardens and music.
Thank you for your help!

kybourbon

Where are you planning to base?

The buses are air conditioned and mid-Sept. shouldn't be terribly hot.

Ferry schedules tend to cut back mid-Sept. What towns/places do you want to visit?

Pompeii and Herculaneum are on the local commuter train line that runs between Naples and Sorrento. You could easily train to either, but depends on where you plan to base.

http://www.coopsantandrea.com/en/ser...ea/servizi.asp

With a driver, I would visit harder to reach places like Ravello or Paestum, if they interest you.

allysone

Thank you, both!
We will be staying in Positano for 11 nights and Naples for two nights; our hotel in Positano has a bus that brings us onto town. Other than that, we are on our own. 11nights seems like a lot of time, so we would like to visit all of the surrounding towns, if easily accessible.
Ii can walk for up to 4 hours a day, but have to limit stairs and very uneven terrain ( arthritic right knee). Both Ravello and Paestrim are of interest. What are your thoughts about Herculaneum and Pompeii? My friend has visited and is not interested in returning but I am happy to travel alone.

I read a post recently showing a picture of one of the SITA buses, packed with people. The writer said that the AC often doesn't work. is this your experience?

What does a cut-back ferry schedule imply? Fewer daily ferries or ferries only a few times a week? Where might I find info on the ferry schedule?

Would Ravello and Paestrum take up a full day?


I am grateful for any recommendations/ suggestions. Thanks!

Texastrips

When we have been on the buses, they have almost always been totally jam packed - and that's what makes them hot regardless of the ac I think!
Paestum is fantastic and flat - it sounds ideal for you. The ruins are great and there is a wonderful museum right there to as well as very pleasant little cafes etc.
Ravello - pedestrian streets undulate a bit but very few steps and amazingly beautiful so also a very good destination for you. (That would require a ferry to Amafi and then a bus up from there.)
Search the campania forums on TripAdvisor for the ferry schedules.
Enjoy!

allysone

Dear Texastrips..... Many thanks, and especially for the advice about Campania forums. We'll definitely plan to go to Paestum ( thanks, also, to previous posters!).

Debs

There will be a lot of walking on uneven payment in Pompeii. Herculaneum is much smaller. Both are interesting to see and if time allows, please consider. Paestum is differnt from them in that it's basically the remains of 3 temples, not a covered in ash/mud city, but definitely worth a vist. A must stop in Naples is the world class archelogical museum. The water front area in Naples is very nice and you'll find restaurants in every price range. Best pizza's ever had were in Naples. ENJOY!

Weadles

I'm assuming your hotel in Positano is already booked? But if not, you may want to consider staying in Sorrento, which although not nearly as gorgeous, has a much flatter terrain.

I know you wrote that your hotel bus will bring you to town, but there's a point at which no cars/buses can go, and from there it's either uneven terrain and/or lots of steps to beach level.

And on the way back to where the bus will meet you, you will have to climb a small sloping passageway to the top of the pedestrian area where traffic is allowed.

I am also worried that your hotel may have lots of steps? For instance, we just stayed again at our favorite hotel in Positano, The Poseidon. There is an elevator that goes to the middle of the hotel, but from there it was quite a few stairs up to our room. Anyway, just something you might want to ask?

As for your other questions, I agree with Texasstrips about the Sita buses. If you can catch boats most places even with a reduced schedule, I think you're better off.

And yes, if you haven't been to Pompeii, it's definitely worth a visit. Although the best way to do that really is from Sorrento or Naples, unless you are being driven back to Rome, in which case you could easily stop at Pompeii on the way there.

allysone

Great...thanks for the advice about getting to Pompeii/ Herculaneum from Naples. Herculaneum sounds more manageable for me and we will also be going to nearby
Stabiae ( less well known, but magnificent frescoes). How much time should be reserved for Herculaneum...anything special to know about traveling there?

I have a close friend who speaks Italian and I think that I'll have her call the hotel to learn about steps, etc. 'I've read about the steep descent to the beaches, so that's clearly out of the question.

Does everyone agree that Paestrum and Ravello are the best choices for our one day with a driver ( my birthday present!).

Has anyone been to the Opera house in Naples for a concert? We are considering this.

You've all been so generous with your comments ( and time): thank you!

Texastrips

I'm so jealous of eleven nights there!
I think you could do Ravello in a day on your own since you have so much time.
Paestum - with the drive and the time to see everything plus a bite to eat, that can take plenty of time. Have your driver stop at a buffalo mozzarella farm too - Paestum is in the center of buffalo mozzarella country. It tastes amazing (you can buy some if they aren't sold out before you arrive) and it's just fun.

Texastrips

PS What hotel are you staying at?

Weadles

Not to be annoying, but the problem with the town in Positano is that there's only one really flat main street. Lots of the shops and restaurants are up or down a hill on other streets leading in to and out of town. I just think it's best for you to know this before you attempt to go. We were just there in June, and my husband has a hip issue and found it pretty hard to navigate. Good luck!!

allysone

Dear Weadles..not annoying at all..I appreciate the information. Are the hills/ streets in Positano any more difficult than the gradual inclines one encounters in the hill towns and villages in Tuscany and Umbria? Those are not a problem for me. Very steep inclines or a lot of steps would be.

Texastrips....thanks for the suggestion about the buffalo mozzarella farm: I've not read that that before.
We are staying at the Villa Franca. I have worked with the same travel agent for 30 years and, without exception, have never had anything but great hotel recommendations. She wanted us to stay at Palazzo Sasso( sp.) , but I am absorbing the cost for some of my friend's trip and I also can't see spending $700. On a hotel room.

Question: we would like to attend the Ravello Music Festival, but the concerts don't begin until quite late...9:30 PM. Is there easy transportation available from Positano to Ravello and then from Villa Rufolo in Ravello back to Positano at about 11:30 PM? Are cabs available at Villa Rufolo? what would the cost be?

ekscrunchy

Here is my idea of a great day trip with a driver; we did a modified version of this with a driver a few years ago, and I did a similar, modified trip with a rental car last year.

Early departure from Positano to Paestum. If interested, make a stop at one of the mozzarella "farms" in and around Capaccio and Paestum, to watch the cheese making process and taste. The famous Vannulo Farm has an English tour at 10am, but you do not need a tour at the many other farms.

Continue to Paestum site; tour temples and museum, with guide if desired (can be booked on site; not necessary)

After the tour, return to Amalfi Coast. If interested in ceramics, you can manage a quick stop at Vietri, before driving on to:

Cetara, where you have booked a late lunch (perhaps reserve for 1:30 or 2pm) at one of the highly regarded seafood restaurants in that town. (I will discuss if you are interested..)

AFter lunch, drive to Ravello and walk around; relax in cafe on main square if tired.

Return to Positano.

I will be happy to discuss; just ask!

mamcalice

Eleven days in Positano seems like an eternity. We were there for 2 and spent most of the time climbing hills or steps. Don't get me wrong, the views are spectacular but the terrain is challenging even for those of us without knee issues. You might consider splitting your time between Sorrento - much flatter - and Positano.

tengohambre

Yes, Positano is a lot of steps. A lot. The comment above about Pompeii being difficult to walk easily in many areas is correct. Yes there are flat spots and avenues, but much of the site is seen via uneven ancient cobble stone streets.

We found the ferry boat from Sorrento to Positano old, slow and expensive, it took nearly an hour. At 15 Euros per tkt we also thought it expensive.

The area is terrific and you will have a great time.

allysone

Mamcalice: we are based in Positano, but won't spend most of our time there, which is why I am trying to understand what other areas are accessible by boat and which, less accessible, are most worth seeing
with a driver.

Ekscrunchy...thank you for the recommendation and detailed itinerary. I would appreciate any restaurant recommendations in Cetara ( or elsewhere, for that matter).

Also, is Herculaneum best reached from Naples? If just as easy to travel from Positano, what is the most efficient way to get there?

Thank you to all.

Texastrips

I think eleven days there sounds wonderful! And the beauty of that is that we don't have to jam pack every day but can spread your outings out.
Villa Franca - is in a gorgeous position and right on the little internal bus route. I'm sure it will be lovely.
Ravello concerts - again much discussion on tripadvisor but for sure you can have a cab pick you up after (your hotel can book it). I think it will be an expensive ride to the hotel but cheaper than staying at the Palazzo Sasso
Another outing that might be enjoyable - if you take the internal bus (which is usually quieter than the regular buses) up to Nocelle (high above Positano) and then stroll for as little or as long as you like along the Path of the Gods until you are ready to turn around back to Nocelle. It's wide, quite even surfaced and easy going there and the views from high above the AC are quite amazing.

ekscrunchy

There are three excellent restaurants in Cetara. Probably the best of the three is the stylish Acquapazza. I had one of the best meals of a 2.5 week trip there last year. You should book ahead of time..the day before should be fine on a weekday. They are closed on Mondays.

Prices for top quality seafood are always high, especially on this coast. But prices in Cetara represent very good value as compared to prices in the more touristed locales such as Positano.

A close second to Acquapazza is San Pietro, in Cetara.
More casual, less pricey, and still very good, and also serving pizza at night, is Al Convento.

The town of Cetara is charming and looks like what you might imagine the other towns must have looked like before the tourist onslaught. The beach is good, too.
http://www.acquapazza.it/

http://www.sanpietroristorante.it/ San Pietro is closed Tuesdays, but not in summer.

http://www.alconvento.net/


You should not expect English to be as widely spoken in this town as it is in Positano.



Other restaurants that I like, further west:

In the hamlet of Atrani, a walk of about 15 minutes from Amalfi town, A Paranza is a good bet for seafood.

Near Positano (just to the east, near the Hotel San Pietro), Taverna de Leone is a good bet for local fare, as well as pizza. English spoken. Pizza at night. Looks quite fancy but food is solid and prices reasonable for the area.

Not far from there, Da Adolfo is on the beach and a good place to combine swimming, relaxing, and seafood.

allysone

Texastrips and Ekscrunchy:
thank you both, and the humor was appreciated, Texastrips.
Any other beautiful areas less well traveled but accessible that I should consider?
I normally travel with my husband and we have always rented a car ( and have never put this much planning into a trip! ). Inasmuch as I am traveling with an elderly friend, for whom I feel somewhat responsible, I want to be as prepared as possible and enjoy our time there without worrying about logistics.

allysone

P.S: Texastrips.... Fodor's is the only site I am using, so thank you for recommending TripAdvisor.