Itinerary help needed for summer trip to Switzerland
Jan 24th, 2014, 07:19 AM
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Itinerary help needed for summer trip to Switzerland
My wife and I (early 40's from NYC, very active) are heading back to Switzerland from July 4 - July 13. This will be my third trip, her second. Our last itinerary was Locarno, Lucerne, and Wengen (exploring the whole Bernesse Oberland area). It was heaven. We love hiking, beautiful scenery, etc.
This trip we would like to explore some different parts of the country. I have a basic idea of where I would like to go, but would love some assistance. We arrive early morning on July 4 (flying in on a red eye). I thought we would head to Montreux and base there for 2-3 days. The Jazz Festival will be happening at that time, which would be extra fun. The only directive I have been given by my wife is that she wants to take the Chocolate Train trip one day (has anyone taken this? Worth the day?). We could also day trip to Bern or Lausanne. Are either worth exploring for a day? For perspective, I find Zurich, which I have been to a couple of times, to be relatively boring.
I thought we would then take the train to Zermatt. I thought 2 nights there would suffice. Does that seem too few? This would be to hike and explore the area.
We could then take the Glacier Express to the east. Originally, I thought St. Moritz would be a good stop, but I have read mixed things about that town on this forum. Is it an overrated place to stay? What about Davos or Chur? Are either of them worth settling in, instead?
We could either spend the rest of our time in this area, before heading back to Zurich for our flight on 7/13, or potentially head back to Zurich a day early and take a nice day trip to the Rhine Falls and the Rhine River. Any thoughts on whether that is worth a visit?
I obviously have a lot of time to prepare, but I want to get the basics of the trip settled sooner rather than later so I can arrange hotel, especially in Montreux, where I imagine it will be quite packed and hectic. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated!
This trip we would like to explore some different parts of the country. I have a basic idea of where I would like to go, but would love some assistance. We arrive early morning on July 4 (flying in on a red eye). I thought we would head to Montreux and base there for 2-3 days. The Jazz Festival will be happening at that time, which would be extra fun. The only directive I have been given by my wife is that she wants to take the Chocolate Train trip one day (has anyone taken this? Worth the day?). We could also day trip to Bern or Lausanne. Are either worth exploring for a day? For perspective, I find Zurich, which I have been to a couple of times, to be relatively boring.
I thought we would then take the train to Zermatt. I thought 2 nights there would suffice. Does that seem too few? This would be to hike and explore the area.
We could then take the Glacier Express to the east. Originally, I thought St. Moritz would be a good stop, but I have read mixed things about that town on this forum. Is it an overrated place to stay? What about Davos or Chur? Are either of them worth settling in, instead?
We could either spend the rest of our time in this area, before heading back to Zurich for our flight on 7/13, or potentially head back to Zurich a day early and take a nice day trip to the Rhine Falls and the Rhine River. Any thoughts on whether that is worth a visit?
I obviously have a lot of time to prepare, but I want to get the basics of the trip settled sooner rather than later so I can arrange hotel, especially in Montreux, where I imagine it will be quite packed and hectic. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated!
Jan 24th, 2014, 08:34 AM
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Seems that if you just go to St Moritz to take the Glacier Express I would not advise that - the Glacier Express IMO being overrated and the most hyped train in Switzerland - not that's its not nice scenery but a marathon jurney of 8 hours - a bit less to Chur or Davos but again you'd want to spend some days in either area to appreciate it and it seems you are a bit short on time.
Many people like the Gstaad area - another Alpine wonderland or Engelberg and Mt Titlis - both much more closer to Zermatt, where if you like hiking there are many opportunities to spend another day.
And the Rhine Falls are neat and so is Bern, one of the most underrated cities in Switzerland IMO and just a short train ride from Zurich Airport - many find Zurich a little boring but it does have its interesting points but is not a place that knocks you off your feet like the Jungfrau Region or Lucerne, where you have been - Schlaffhausen, a short walk from the Rhine Falls along paths along the river is a neat town so if going to the falls have a look at it.
In any case you are traveling enough to look at either a Swiss Pass, Half-Fare Card, Swiss Card, etc. For lots of great info on Swiss trains check out these IMO fine sites: www.swisstravelsystem.com; www.ricksteves.com; www.budgeteuropetravel.com and www.seat61.com.
I have not taken the Chocolate Train but regular trains over the same route - Gruyeres is neat - a fine walled town and the Willie Wonkaesque factory tour too. There is a supplement charged for the official Chocolate Express as it includes wine and cheese tasting en route and uses vintage fancy Pullman train cars.
Many people like the Gstaad area - another Alpine wonderland or Engelberg and Mt Titlis - both much more closer to Zermatt, where if you like hiking there are many opportunities to spend another day.
And the Rhine Falls are neat and so is Bern, one of the most underrated cities in Switzerland IMO and just a short train ride from Zurich Airport - many find Zurich a little boring but it does have its interesting points but is not a place that knocks you off your feet like the Jungfrau Region or Lucerne, where you have been - Schlaffhausen, a short walk from the Rhine Falls along paths along the river is a neat town so if going to the falls have a look at it.
In any case you are traveling enough to look at either a Swiss Pass, Half-Fare Card, Swiss Card, etc. For lots of great info on Swiss trains check out these IMO fine sites: www.swisstravelsystem.com; www.ricksteves.com; www.budgeteuropetravel.com and www.seat61.com.
I have not taken the Chocolate Train but regular trains over the same route - Gruyeres is neat - a fine walled town and the Willie Wonkaesque factory tour too. There is a supplement charged for the official Chocolate Express as it includes wine and cheese tasting en route and uses vintage fancy Pullman train cars.
Jan 24th, 2014, 08:36 AM
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I think it's too much moving around. A few comments from a frequent traveller to Switzerland: ;-)
The "Chocolate Train" is just a marketing gag IMO. You can take any train to Broc and tour the chocolate factory on your own - less expensive and more flexible. On the other hand, there *are* people who love to do such things specifically created for tourists, it's up to you.
While the Jazz Festival itself might be fun, the crowds in Montreux (and outrageous hotel rates at that time) are definitely not. I would avoide the area entirely during these weeks, but others will just love it.
If you find Zürich boring, then you'll find Lausanne boring as well. As you will probably have only two full days in the area anyway, better tour the chocolate factory in Broc (your wife seems to be interested in that), see castle Gruyeres on the same day and try to squeeze in cheese tasting/show at the train station in Gruyeres.
The other day see castle Chillon, take a cog-train or so up to one of the viewing points (Rochers-de-Naye, Les Pleiades, Mt. Pelerin or so), do a cruise on the lake, do some wine tasting.
Zermatt can be hit or miss weather wise. The point is to see the Matterhorn, right? (You don't seem to be much interested in serious hiking, eh?) So I'd not book a hotel (or at least book something you can cancel until the day prior to arrival) as it can be cloudy and no view of the Matterhorn.
St. Moritz itself is overbuilt in rather ugly style, but the surrounding small towns/villages are very beautiful (Sils, Pontresina, Celerina, Zuoz e.g.) and the landscape is gorgeous. Glaciers, mountains, lakes, endless hiking trails, easy access by cable cars, gondolas, trains, buses ... Definitely do day trips to Italian speaking valleys Bregaglia (Soglio!) and Poschiavo (Bernina Express); worth seeing are also the Lower Engadine around Scuol with picturesque villages Guarda and Ardez and castle Tarasp. If there's enough time you might consider a day trip to UNESCO world heritage site Benedictine monastery Müstair as well (bus, going through the Swiss National Park.)
The "Chocolate Train" is just a marketing gag IMO. You can take any train to Broc and tour the chocolate factory on your own - less expensive and more flexible. On the other hand, there *are* people who love to do such things specifically created for tourists, it's up to you.
While the Jazz Festival itself might be fun, the crowds in Montreux (and outrageous hotel rates at that time) are definitely not. I would avoide the area entirely during these weeks, but others will just love it.
If you find Zürich boring, then you'll find Lausanne boring as well. As you will probably have only two full days in the area anyway, better tour the chocolate factory in Broc (your wife seems to be interested in that), see castle Gruyeres on the same day and try to squeeze in cheese tasting/show at the train station in Gruyeres.
The other day see castle Chillon, take a cog-train or so up to one of the viewing points (Rochers-de-Naye, Les Pleiades, Mt. Pelerin or so), do a cruise on the lake, do some wine tasting.
Zermatt can be hit or miss weather wise. The point is to see the Matterhorn, right? (You don't seem to be much interested in serious hiking, eh?) So I'd not book a hotel (or at least book something you can cancel until the day prior to arrival) as it can be cloudy and no view of the Matterhorn.
St. Moritz itself is overbuilt in rather ugly style, but the surrounding small towns/villages are very beautiful (Sils, Pontresina, Celerina, Zuoz e.g.) and the landscape is gorgeous. Glaciers, mountains, lakes, endless hiking trails, easy access by cable cars, gondolas, trains, buses ... Definitely do day trips to Italian speaking valleys Bregaglia (Soglio!) and Poschiavo (Bernina Express); worth seeing are also the Lower Engadine around Scuol with picturesque villages Guarda and Ardez and castle Tarasp. If there's enough time you might consider a day trip to UNESCO world heritage site Benedictine monastery Müstair as well (bus, going through the Swiss National Park.)
Jan 24th, 2014, 09:22 AM
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As another frequent traveller to Switzerland I agree with much of what Ingo has written.
The problem is that people and their interests differ. The Chocolate Train to me is a joke. I like Montreux but unless you really want to go there for the Jazz, I would avoid it at that time. Either you are a big Jazz fan in which case it is a must or you will be paying well over the norm for no real reason.
Places to stay such as Zermatt or St. Moritz again depend on what YOU like. For example, given your previous visit you should be able to compare Interlaken with Wengen. Most tourists stay in Interlaken and most of those with a decent knowledge of Switzerland will advise avoiding it like the plague. Instead they will advise staying in one of the smaller villages in the area like Wengen, Grindelwalk, Murren, Lauterbrunnen, etc. Which would you prefer?
I put Zermatt and St. Moritz in the same category as Interlaken. It's where everybody has heard of and the majority of tourists go. Tasch, just down the valley from Zermatt for example is far easier on the wallet and I've stayed at a hotel their with a fine view of the Matterhorn from our room window. http://www.booking.com/hotel/ch/matt...lliserhof.html
The train from there to Zermatt runs every 20 minutes and it's a 10 minute ride.
The same in regards to St. Moritz. I prefer Sils Maria just down the valley. So it depends on YOU and your preferences.
Bern is worth a visit for ME. It's arcades and clock tower are far different from the Bahnhoffstrasse in Zurich. Luassane has somehow remained a name based on its old fame as a resort. That was long ago and like Ingo, not worth a visit in MY opinion.
I once had a couple tell me that they weren't impressed by Switzerland having spent one night (a break in a train journey from Paris to Rome) in Luassane. I had to bite my tongue to not call them idiots.
Another part of Switzerland that I find quite unique is near the Italian border on Lago Maggiore. Specifically, I find spending 3-4 days lazing around doing very little but sitting outside my hotel on the 'promenade' enjoying people watching and taking a drive up one of the valleys like Verzasca perhaps.
The place I like to stay is in Ascona. Who would have thought palm trees in Switzerland?
https://www.google.ca/search?q=ascon...w=1280&bih=687
The valley I mentioned:
https://www.google.ca/search?q=val+v...w=1280&bih=687
The hotel I like: http://www.hoteltamaroascona.com/de/
With only 9 days I would personally only opt to stay in 2 places. Every time you move you more or less lose a day. How to choose which places is of course the problem. Just realize that if you really get bit by the Switzerland bug, there will be many more trips to come.
The problem is that people and their interests differ. The Chocolate Train to me is a joke. I like Montreux but unless you really want to go there for the Jazz, I would avoid it at that time. Either you are a big Jazz fan in which case it is a must or you will be paying well over the norm for no real reason.
Places to stay such as Zermatt or St. Moritz again depend on what YOU like. For example, given your previous visit you should be able to compare Interlaken with Wengen. Most tourists stay in Interlaken and most of those with a decent knowledge of Switzerland will advise avoiding it like the plague. Instead they will advise staying in one of the smaller villages in the area like Wengen, Grindelwalk, Murren, Lauterbrunnen, etc. Which would you prefer?
I put Zermatt and St. Moritz in the same category as Interlaken. It's where everybody has heard of and the majority of tourists go. Tasch, just down the valley from Zermatt for example is far easier on the wallet and I've stayed at a hotel their with a fine view of the Matterhorn from our room window. http://www.booking.com/hotel/ch/matt...lliserhof.html
The train from there to Zermatt runs every 20 minutes and it's a 10 minute ride.
The same in regards to St. Moritz. I prefer Sils Maria just down the valley. So it depends on YOU and your preferences.
Bern is worth a visit for ME. It's arcades and clock tower are far different from the Bahnhoffstrasse in Zurich. Luassane has somehow remained a name based on its old fame as a resort. That was long ago and like Ingo, not worth a visit in MY opinion.
I once had a couple tell me that they weren't impressed by Switzerland having spent one night (a break in a train journey from Paris to Rome) in Luassane. I had to bite my tongue to not call them idiots.
Another part of Switzerland that I find quite unique is near the Italian border on Lago Maggiore. Specifically, I find spending 3-4 days lazing around doing very little but sitting outside my hotel on the 'promenade' enjoying people watching and taking a drive up one of the valleys like Verzasca perhaps.
The place I like to stay is in Ascona. Who would have thought palm trees in Switzerland?
https://www.google.ca/search?q=ascon...w=1280&bih=687
The valley I mentioned:
https://www.google.ca/search?q=val+v...w=1280&bih=687
The hotel I like: http://www.hoteltamaroascona.com/de/
With only 9 days I would personally only opt to stay in 2 places. Every time you move you more or less lose a day. How to choose which places is of course the problem. Just realize that if you really get bit by the Switzerland bug, there will be many more trips to come.
Jan 24th, 2014, 09:57 AM
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Hi mjknycmjk,
I'm a frequent visitor to Montreux and love it there, so I hope I can help you with some things to enjoy there.
The flowered lakeside promenade is a real highlight of the town, and it's best as you walk from Montreux; walking to Chillon takes about 45 minutes or to the next town of Villeneuve is about 1h30.
I also love poking around the old town of Montreux, the narrow hilly streets above the lake. There's a church up there with a terrace where you can enjoy beautiful views over Montreux and the lake. It takes about 45 minutes to walk up, but it's well worthwhile. You can actually go all the way to Glion, and that takes about 1h30, and you can reward yourself with a meal or a drink on the terrace of the Hotel Victoria. Views from the terrace are amazing.
I also think the vineyards of the Lavaux are wonderful, and they should be gloriously colorful in July. Just take the train to Chexbres and walk downhill to Rivaz (about 20 or 30 minutes), then have a meal at the Auberge de Rivaz. If you'd like something longer, take the train to Lutry, a lovely lakeside town, then walk back through the vineyards to Epesses or Cully.
I'd like to suggest that you stay in Vevey rather than Montreux. Vevey is one the same town-bus line, so you can move back and forth for free with the Riviera Card your hosts will give you; the trip takes about 20 minutes. But Vevey will not be as crazy as Montreux is, and Vevey is usually filled with residents or long-term visitors rather than just tourists off the bus.
If you don't stay in Vevey, you should at least visit it -- its tangled streets right next to the lake are fun to get lost in.
I agree that you don't need to take the Chocolate Train, which is a marketed tourist trip; you can do all of its parts on your own. If you make it a loooong day, you can even stop in Gstaad too.
Here are my "reviews" (w/photos) of these things I've mentioned; they may give you an idea of what you want to see/do:
Montreux old town
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserR...reux_Vaud.html
Lavaux
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserR...reux_Vaud.html
Walks through the Lavaux vineyards
http://www.montreuxriviera.com/en/Cu...rekking_Lavaux
Promenade Fleuri
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserR...reux_Vaud.html
Morges
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserR...rges_Vaud.html
Gruyeres
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserR..._Fribourg.html
Saanen
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserR...wiss_Alps.html
Gstaad
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserR...wiss_Alps.html
Have fun as you plan!
s
I'm a frequent visitor to Montreux and love it there, so I hope I can help you with some things to enjoy there.
The flowered lakeside promenade is a real highlight of the town, and it's best as you walk from Montreux; walking to Chillon takes about 45 minutes or to the next town of Villeneuve is about 1h30.
I also love poking around the old town of Montreux, the narrow hilly streets above the lake. There's a church up there with a terrace where you can enjoy beautiful views over Montreux and the lake. It takes about 45 minutes to walk up, but it's well worthwhile. You can actually go all the way to Glion, and that takes about 1h30, and you can reward yourself with a meal or a drink on the terrace of the Hotel Victoria. Views from the terrace are amazing.
I also think the vineyards of the Lavaux are wonderful, and they should be gloriously colorful in July. Just take the train to Chexbres and walk downhill to Rivaz (about 20 or 30 minutes), then have a meal at the Auberge de Rivaz. If you'd like something longer, take the train to Lutry, a lovely lakeside town, then walk back through the vineyards to Epesses or Cully.
I'd like to suggest that you stay in Vevey rather than Montreux. Vevey is one the same town-bus line, so you can move back and forth for free with the Riviera Card your hosts will give you; the trip takes about 20 minutes. But Vevey will not be as crazy as Montreux is, and Vevey is usually filled with residents or long-term visitors rather than just tourists off the bus.
If you don't stay in Vevey, you should at least visit it -- its tangled streets right next to the lake are fun to get lost in.
I agree that you don't need to take the Chocolate Train, which is a marketed tourist trip; you can do all of its parts on your own. If you make it a loooong day, you can even stop in Gstaad too.
Here are my "reviews" (w/photos) of these things I've mentioned; they may give you an idea of what you want to see/do:
Montreux old town
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserR...reux_Vaud.html
Lavaux
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserR...reux_Vaud.html
Walks through the Lavaux vineyards
http://www.montreuxriviera.com/en/Cu...rekking_Lavaux
Promenade Fleuri
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserR...reux_Vaud.html
Morges
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserR...rges_Vaud.html
Gruyeres
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserR..._Fribourg.html
Saanen
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserR...wiss_Alps.html
Gstaad
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserR...wiss_Alps.html
Have fun as you plan!
s
Jan 24th, 2014, 10:13 AM
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As you have already visited the whole Bernese Oberland, a stay at Gstaad/Diablerets Glacier wouldn't make sense.
The chocolate train is a guided tour and has the advantage that you enter the cheese diary at a time where cheesemaking takes really place and that you will not have to queue at the entry of the Broc chocolate factory.
http://www.goldenpass.ch/goldenpass_chocolate_train
But it's perfectly possible to do the same by standard trains (they run every hr).
Your itinerary makes sense:
Montreux - Zermatt - Glacier Express - Engiadina Valley.
The Glacier Express ride IS long. Best solution: split it into 2 legs, may be by visiting the alpine thermal baths at Vals
http://www.vals.ch/en/deep-meaningfu...ermal-springs/
or the resort town of Flims http://www.flims.com/en/
That would mean:
Zermatt dp 7.52 - Disentis 11.55/12.44 - Ilanz 13.21 - Flims ar 14.00 resp Bad Vals ar 14.09
The remaining leg would last 3 1/2 hrs and could be made the following morning (trains every hr). Direct trains from Ilanz to Guarda - Scuol-Tarasp every hr. Connecting trains to St. Moritz and Pontresina from either Reichenau or Sagliains.
As an alternatie, you could travel via Lugano:
http://www.lugano-tourism.ch/en/32/t...formation.aspx
Day 1: Zermatt - Domodossola Centovalli Express - Locarno - Giubiascoo - Lugano
Day 2: Lugano - Maloja Pass or Bernina Pass - Sils/St. Moritz/Pontresina.
You may have a look at
http://www.myswitzerland.com/en/home.html
http://www.swisstravelsystem.ch/en/
http://fahrplan.sbb.ch/bin/query.exe/en
The chocolate train is a guided tour and has the advantage that you enter the cheese diary at a time where cheesemaking takes really place and that you will not have to queue at the entry of the Broc chocolate factory.
http://www.goldenpass.ch/goldenpass_chocolate_train
But it's perfectly possible to do the same by standard trains (they run every hr).
Your itinerary makes sense:
Montreux - Zermatt - Glacier Express - Engiadina Valley.
The Glacier Express ride IS long. Best solution: split it into 2 legs, may be by visiting the alpine thermal baths at Vals
http://www.vals.ch/en/deep-meaningfu...ermal-springs/
or the resort town of Flims http://www.flims.com/en/
That would mean:
Zermatt dp 7.52 - Disentis 11.55/12.44 - Ilanz 13.21 - Flims ar 14.00 resp Bad Vals ar 14.09
The remaining leg would last 3 1/2 hrs and could be made the following morning (trains every hr). Direct trains from Ilanz to Guarda - Scuol-Tarasp every hr. Connecting trains to St. Moritz and Pontresina from either Reichenau or Sagliains.
As an alternatie, you could travel via Lugano:
http://www.lugano-tourism.ch/en/32/t...formation.aspx
Day 1: Zermatt - Domodossola Centovalli Express - Locarno - Giubiascoo - Lugano
Day 2: Lugano - Maloja Pass or Bernina Pass - Sils/St. Moritz/Pontresina.
You may have a look at
http://www.myswitzerland.com/en/home.html
http://www.swisstravelsystem.ch/en/
http://fahrplan.sbb.ch/bin/query.exe/en
Jan 24th, 2014, 01:55 PM
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I think the supplement for a pass holder or over regular tickets on regular trains on the Chocolate Express is fairly steep - it's a first class train so needs an upgrade if having a 2nd-class pass I believe.
Jan 24th, 2014, 05:42 PM
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Thank you for all of the information so far. It is greatly appreciated.
1. If we were to consolidate a little to lessen the hotel changes, we could potentially eliminate the trip to Zermatt. Is Zermatt a must-visit for the hiking and views? We stayed in Wengen on our last trip and visited Murren. It sounds like Zermatt is similar to staying in Murren. Does that sound like an appropriate comparison?
2. Any thoughts on staying in Davos? I had not heard of this town before starting my research. Is it a nice play to base ourselves? Or just to visit? Or not at all?
Thanks!
1. If we were to consolidate a little to lessen the hotel changes, we could potentially eliminate the trip to Zermatt. Is Zermatt a must-visit for the hiking and views? We stayed in Wengen on our last trip and visited Murren. It sounds like Zermatt is similar to staying in Murren. Does that sound like an appropriate comparison?
2. Any thoughts on staying in Davos? I had not heard of this town before starting my research. Is it a nice play to base ourselves? Or just to visit? Or not at all?
Thanks!
Jan 24th, 2014, 09:43 PM
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Hi again,
I personally didn't care at all for Zermatt -- I found it to be unattractive and overbuilt, as they cram too many new chalets into every available inch. I also found it to be over-touristed, as I guess so many folks want to see the Matterhorn. No, it is nothing like Mürren, which is a small and sleepy little village.
However, I did enjoy the hiking in the nearby hills and countryside; that was gorgeous. But I think you can find gorgeous hiking in almost any corner of Switzerland.
Can't comment on Davos. I have stayed in Zuoz and really enjoyed its atmosphere and beauty. I also liked Sils a lot.
Have fun as you plan!
s
I personally didn't care at all for Zermatt -- I found it to be unattractive and overbuilt, as they cram too many new chalets into every available inch. I also found it to be over-touristed, as I guess so many folks want to see the Matterhorn. No, it is nothing like Mürren, which is a small and sleepy little village.
However, I did enjoy the hiking in the nearby hills and countryside; that was gorgeous. But I think you can find gorgeous hiking in almost any corner of Switzerland.
Can't comment on Davos. I have stayed in Zuoz and really enjoyed its atmosphere and beauty. I also liked Sils a lot.
Have fun as you plan!
s
Jan 24th, 2014, 10:20 PM
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Hi again,
I liked the town -- it overlooks a lush green valley. However, you should know that the train station is down in the valley and the town is up on a hill. I've heard there are town busses that meet the train to take you up there. Ingo also recently posted about a hotel in Pontresina that is easy to get to from the stop just after Pontresina -- hopefully he'll post it again (or you can click on his name).
I did see one or two modern buildings in the town -- some glass-and-steel things -- that I just didn't care for. Maybe you should take a look around the images of the town that you can find on google's "images" search engine.
s
I liked the town -- it overlooks a lush green valley. However, you should know that the train station is down in the valley and the town is up on a hill. I've heard there are town busses that meet the train to take you up there. Ingo also recently posted about a hotel in Pontresina that is easy to get to from the stop just after Pontresina -- hopefully he'll post it again (or you can click on his name).
I did see one or two modern buildings in the town -- some glass-and-steel things -- that I just didn't care for. Maybe you should take a look around the images of the town that you can find on google's "images" search engine.
s
Jan 25th, 2014, 12:54 AM
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I stayed in Pontresina last June. Thanks to ingo, I knew to plan my trips in light of the times when busses connected with trains. Make sure you ask your hotel what the nearest bus stop is called and make sure you can enter that name into the sbb website -- with that, you should be able to plan the times that you can go to / from your hotel without a wait.
As swandav2000 says, ingo is likely to have the most accurate word on these connections -- thanks again, inogo!
As swandav2000 says, ingo is likely to have the most accurate word on these connections -- thanks again, inogo!
Jan 25th, 2014, 01:53 AM
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Thanks, folks 
Seriously, Pontresina is a good choice. I mentioned it in my post above, btw. Yes, like swandav said, there are a couple of modern buildings in the centre (with tourist info), but otherwise it's mostly beautiful old houses with some Belle Epoque hotels, too.
The train stop swandav referred to is Surovas, a stop upon demand (you need to push a button so the train folks know you want to get on/off the train there) for regional trains. It's the first stop after Pontresina (the 'main' station) in direction of Bernina pass/Tirano. From there a flat path leads to the upper part of the village, right to Hotel Albris, a nice 3star hotel (famous for their bakery/pastry shop and the nutcake), the Belle Epoque 4star+ hotel Walther and the 2star Hotel Engadinerhof - all of them recommended.
Another advantage of the Upper Engadine: Most hotels offer a complimentary pass for free public transportation plus cable cars/gondolas if you stay at least 2 nights. Helps saving money. Make sure to pick a hotel that offers both, and also "Bregaglia (Bergell) included" for the bus ride to Soglio and back.
As for your questions:
1. Zermatt is far bigger than Mürren, much more overbuilt with rather large hotels and apartment blocks. No doubt that there are excellent hiking trails around Zermatt, the mountain scenery is really fanastic.
2. Davos is a big town, the architecture is sort of Bauhaus style, so nothing what you'd imagine under Swiss/Alpine charm. The mounains around Davos are not as impressive as in the Engadine, Jungfrau region or Valais, either - hardly any glaciers left, the elevation difference between valley and peak not really that much compared to the others.
Seriously, Pontresina is a good choice. I mentioned it in my post above, btw. Yes, like swandav said, there are a couple of modern buildings in the centre (with tourist info), but otherwise it's mostly beautiful old houses with some Belle Epoque hotels, too.
The train stop swandav referred to is Surovas, a stop upon demand (you need to push a button so the train folks know you want to get on/off the train there) for regional trains. It's the first stop after Pontresina (the 'main' station) in direction of Bernina pass/Tirano. From there a flat path leads to the upper part of the village, right to Hotel Albris, a nice 3star hotel (famous for their bakery/pastry shop and the nutcake), the Belle Epoque 4star+ hotel Walther and the 2star Hotel Engadinerhof - all of them recommended.
Another advantage of the Upper Engadine: Most hotels offer a complimentary pass for free public transportation plus cable cars/gondolas if you stay at least 2 nights. Helps saving money. Make sure to pick a hotel that offers both, and also "Bregaglia (Bergell) included" for the bus ride to Soglio and back.
As for your questions:
1. Zermatt is far bigger than Mürren, much more overbuilt with rather large hotels and apartment blocks. No doubt that there are excellent hiking trails around Zermatt, the mountain scenery is really fanastic.
2. Davos is a big town, the architecture is sort of Bauhaus style, so nothing what you'd imagine under Swiss/Alpine charm. The mounains around Davos are not as impressive as in the Engadine, Jungfrau region or Valais, either - hardly any glaciers left, the elevation difference between valley and peak not really that much compared to the others.
Jan 25th, 2014, 08:30 AM
#18
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Thank you everyone for the great information and comments. After taking everything into account and giving it more thought, I think we have decided to nix the Engadine portion of our itinerary. As much as I would love to see that area, it just seems to involve too much travel to make the trip worthwhile. On the plus side, we have decided to substitute the BO area instead, probably staying in Wengen again, which we loved last time we were there. How does this work for a new itinerary?
7/4 - Arrive 10 am, train to Wengen
7/5 - Wengen/BO
7/6 - Wengen/BO
7/7 - Travel to Zermatt in morning
7/8 - Zernatt
7/9 - travel to Montreux or Vevey in late afternoon or morning depending on weather in Zermatt
7/10 - Montreux or Vevey
7/11 - Montreux or Vevey
7/12 - travel to Bern
7/13 - leave from Bern directly to ZRH airport for 10:45 am departure
7/4 - Arrive 10 am, train to Wengen
7/5 - Wengen/BO
7/6 - Wengen/BO
7/7 - Travel to Zermatt in morning
7/8 - Zernatt
7/9 - travel to Montreux or Vevey in late afternoon or morning depending on weather in Zermatt
7/10 - Montreux or Vevey
7/11 - Montreux or Vevey
7/12 - travel to Bern
7/13 - leave from Bern directly to ZRH airport for 10:45 am departure
Jan 26th, 2014, 05:58 AM
#19
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Zermatt versus Muerren:
Zermatt is IN THE MIDDLE of 31 more than 13000ft high (and a lot of lower) peaks. Hiking trails to 16 of the many glaciers around Zermatt begin just in the village.
The highest peak which can be reached on a hiking trail (no rocks or snow is the Oberrothorn (11200ft)
A cog wheel railway, a cablecar and 3 gondolas go from Zermatt upwards to 12 destinations which are all linked with the hiking trail network.
Zermatt is 2 hrs by train from Berne; trains every 30 to 60 min, 1 train change.
Muerren is IN FRONT of 9 more than 13000ft high (and a lot of lower) peaks. Rather long and strenous hiking trails go from the village to 4 glaciers: Gamchi Glacier, Tschingel Glacier, Breithorn Glacier and Schmadri Glacier.
The highest peak which can be reached on a hiking trail (no rocks or snow is the Schilthorn (9740ft)
A cablecar and 1 gondola go from Muerren upwards to 3 destinations which are all linked with the hiking trail network.
Muerren is 1 3/4 hrs by train from Berne; trains every 30 to 60 min, 3 train changes.
Both villages are car-free. Zermatt is much bigger (beause it's much more popular with Swiss people).
Zermatt is IN THE MIDDLE of 31 more than 13000ft high (and a lot of lower) peaks. Hiking trails to 16 of the many glaciers around Zermatt begin just in the village.
The highest peak which can be reached on a hiking trail (no rocks or snow is the Oberrothorn (11200ft)
A cog wheel railway, a cablecar and 3 gondolas go from Zermatt upwards to 12 destinations which are all linked with the hiking trail network.
Zermatt is 2 hrs by train from Berne; trains every 30 to 60 min, 1 train change.
Muerren is IN FRONT of 9 more than 13000ft high (and a lot of lower) peaks. Rather long and strenous hiking trails go from the village to 4 glaciers: Gamchi Glacier, Tschingel Glacier, Breithorn Glacier and Schmadri Glacier.
The highest peak which can be reached on a hiking trail (no rocks or snow is the Schilthorn (9740ft)
A cablecar and 1 gondola go from Muerren upwards to 3 destinations which are all linked with the hiking trail network.
Muerren is 1 3/4 hrs by train from Berne; trains every 30 to 60 min, 3 train changes.
Both villages are car-free. Zermatt is much bigger (beause it's much more popular with Swiss people).
Jan 26th, 2014, 07:57 AM
#20
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More statistics and info on Mürren vs. Zermatt (and Wengen):
Population: Mürren ca. 420, Zermatt ca. 6000 (Wengen: 1300).
Capacity for tourists: Mürren ca. 2000 beds, Zermatt 17000 (Wengen: 6500) beds.
Both are roughly at the same elevation. Mürren sits on a sunny terrace, overlooking the Lauterbrunnen valley 800 m below, the Jungfrau peak right vis-a-vis towering up 3300 m above the valley floor. Zermatt is squeezed into a narrow valley, surrounded by lots of more than 4000 m tall peaks, the Matterhorn e.g. 2900 m higher than the valley floor.
Wengen is at slightly lower elevation (1274 m), also on a sunny terrace.
Your new (old) itinerary works just fine. Too bad you decided to drop the Engadine, but it's your decision. As I said before, you can easily do a day trip from Montreux to Zermatt, no need to stay overnight - and in this case you could make a last minute decision, depending on the weather.
Population: Mürren ca. 420, Zermatt ca. 6000 (Wengen: 1300).
Capacity for tourists: Mürren ca. 2000 beds, Zermatt 17000 (Wengen: 6500) beds.
Both are roughly at the same elevation. Mürren sits on a sunny terrace, overlooking the Lauterbrunnen valley 800 m below, the Jungfrau peak right vis-a-vis towering up 3300 m above the valley floor. Zermatt is squeezed into a narrow valley, surrounded by lots of more than 4000 m tall peaks, the Matterhorn e.g. 2900 m higher than the valley floor.
Wengen is at slightly lower elevation (1274 m), also on a sunny terrace.
Your new (old) itinerary works just fine. Too bad you decided to drop the Engadine, but it's your decision. As I said before, you can easily do a day trip from Montreux to Zermatt, no need to stay overnight - and in this case you could make a last minute decision, depending on the weather.
