jeff49

Part 1 of 4 – Getting There

The direct flight over from RDU to LHR was full, but on time. The advantages of flying from the sunny South in January. From deplaning to curb took about an hour at Heathrow’s terminal 3. ATM's conveniently located just as you exit customs. We had booked through AutoEurope for a VW Passat wagon and had a voucher for EuropCar. ($372.64 for 2 weeks) If you've booked in advance you don't have to stop at the rental counter at Heathrow. Just proceed to the shuttle bus pickup area. We were pleasantly surprised to have our pick of any of 30 wagons on the lot, so we opened the tailgates on several till we found the one with the most space and decided on a Vauxhall Vectra. I declined the CDW but they tried hard to sell me windshield/tire coverage for around £4/day. You decide where the scratches and dents are and as you drive out, they enter that info into their computers. Remember to determine how to get the car into reverse before you leave the rental office.

Drove up to Blenheim Palace (already knew it was closed) because we had time to kill before our 3pm checkin at the Travelodge in Windsor. Lots of fog and surprisingly, some snow on the ground. By the way, we brought along a Tom Tom GPS that proved invaluable. The model GO 920 comes already loaded with USA, Canada, and all of Europe. The cost was about the same as rental for 2 weeks. One thing I like is that it gives you an audible alarm and a visual cue when you approach a traffic camera. Also, it alarms when you exceed the speed limit which is helpful since speed limit signs are scarce and smaller than in the US. The computer voice had some problems with names, especially in Wales, and called roundabouts rotaries. Still can't figure out where that came from.

The Travelodge in Windsor is new, clean, spartan, and cheap (if you advance book). Travelodge has a reservation system similar to the airlines. We booked a “Saver Room” 21 days in advance for a non-refundable £19. The closer the date and the quicker they fill up, the price rises accordingly. The Windsor location is adjacent to the Central train station and the shopping mall, about 200 yards from the Castle. The downside is parking. The King Edward lot for the shopping mall is £15/day but get Travelodge to validate your parking ticket and it's only £10. Travelodge is very strict about their check-in time. We arrived at 2:58 pm and were told that we would have to wait two minutes although there was no one else to be helped. We stood there for two minutes and then they cheerfully waited on us. The queen-size bed (with duvet only) was comfortable. There are no amenities other than one tiny bar of soap. Anything else you need can be found in a vending machine in the lobby. If you book at Travelodge, you might want to consider opting for the family room. It's the same price as a double and you get a larger room with sofa bed and a tub with shower instead of just a shower.

We had dinner at Castello, a little Italian place on Church Lane and it was quite good. For breakfast, we had croissants at a French cafe in Daniel's department store across from the hotel. Surprisingly good variety and I thought the almond croissants rivaled those in Paris.

Back to Heathrow to pick up our other traveling partners, my sister and her husband. Actually, we just went to the Europcar office on North Perimeter Road but I can't imagine finding it without the GPS. I've yet to see any road sign with the N.Parimeter name on it. Added my sister as a second driver and we’re off to Devon. Stopped by to see Stonehedge along the way. You really can get closer than some on this board had led me to believe. On to Kingswear where we'll be for a week at Kingswear Park Club at the top of the hill. Don't believe Via Michelin or Google maps when they show a road across the Dart River to Dartmouth. It's actually a ferry. If you're going to be in the area for a while and qualify, purchase the booklet of ferry tickets (20 for £24) which saves 60%. We checked into Kingswear Park Club and were assigned the Carew apartment, which was quite roomy. The Ship Inn pub was our choice for dinner. Good pub grub.

jeff49

Part 2 of 4 Devon & Cornwall

We visited Dartmouth Castle on Sunday and pretty much had the place to ourselves. Another reason we travel a lot in January. Gorgeous views of the sea and river from the castle. Before I forget, some of the roads in this part of England are narrow. We had to fold in the rear view mirrors to make it down some of them. I thought the roads on Mull were narrow, but these have those beat. Driving down Wood Lane in Kingswear and Above Town Road in Dartmouth beat any thrill ride I've ever been on. We took a leisurely drive down the coast from Dartmouth to Torcross and there are many breathtaking views to be seen along the way. Had cream tea at the tea room in Torcross and the scones were excellent. The beaches were surprisingly pebbled instead of sand.

Exeter took most of our time the next day. Don't miss the cathedral and pay particular attention to the age of the different parts. I've seen many, but this one was most impressive. There were volunteer guides at the information desk and we had one take us on a detailed tour. Unlike some "volunteer" guides, these are truly volunteer and would not accept any tips.

Tuesday was Torquay and the beaches north of there. (For those from the US, if it is spelled “quay”, it’s pronounced “key”) Torquay is another place with breathtaking views of the coast. I really enjoyed the Bygone Museum as it had every conceivable shop from bygone days recreated. On next to the Torquay Museum which didn't impress me nearly as much, but one of my traveling companions is an Agatha Christie fan and spent over an hour in just that one exhibit. Lunch at Malloy’s Pub. Good cheap food, especially liked the sticky toffee pudding.

Wednesday was Cornwall. Highlights include a visit to the Courtroom Experience in Bodmin. On to Pendennis Castle, which is a 450-year-old facility that has quite a history. This is one castle that would be suitable for the younger ones. There are many hands-on activities such as trying on old uniforms and seeing and hearing a gun crew shoot a cannon. I drove up to the gate to unload our group and the fellow at the gate waved me on in and let me park in the staff lot. The visitor’s lot is about a half-mile away. We were there with only two or three other tourists. Again, the advantages of winter travel.

Thursday, we spent exploring more of the local beaches and the Torquay Abbey. The Abbey is quite massive and we had it to ourselves. Lunch at Cockington Court which is mostly closed except for the Inn. Dinner was back in Dartmouth at the Cherub Inn, which is Dartmouth's oldest building from the 1300's. Lots of character and good food.

Friday we’re off to the northern coast of Devon. First to Barnstaple and we walked the downtown area including the Pannier Market. Got some good fudge there. The Museum of North Devon is free and has some interesting military exhibits. On to Clovelly. The walk from the visitor's center to the beach is one of the most beautiful we experienced, however, it is steep and cobble stoned the entire way. The cobblestones are turned on sides making the trek even more daunting. The walk back from the beach is not for anyone that is not in good physical health.

jeff49

Part 3 of 4 – Onward North to Wales and Beyond

Saturday, we move up to Bath for a night at The Henry Guest House. Great location just a couple of blocks from the Roman baths. Very friendly hosts and a good breakfast. The Roman baths were packed with tourists. Can't imagine what it's like in high season. Don't miss the Abbey next door. We did the Jane Austen Centre which really doesn't have a lot of stuff that belonged to Jane Austen, but there is an excellent introduction by a guide that gives great insight to what it was like for a woman writer 200 years ago. I never realized that her name was never released as the author of her books until after her death. Lunch was at the Sally Lund House which is the oldest house is Bath. Don't miss the small museum in the basement.

Sunday, we headed north and stopped first at Cardiff Castle. It's really a mix of 1000-year-old structures and some more modern improvements. Do take the time to watch the 7-minute video and take the guided tour. Our next stop was Caerphilly Castle which is partially in ruin but worth a visit as you can still climb about and see a fully filled moat. On to Llanerchcoedlan Farm Guest House for the night at a great B&B in the middle of the boonies. This is a 300-year-old home that is still a working sheep farm. We opted for the 3 course evening meal, which was fabulous.

Onward north through Wales on Monday with a first stop at Caernarfon Castle. From the outside you would never know that there is a military museum hidden in the walls of the castle. This is where the investiture of Prince Charles took place in 1969 and there is an exhibit all about it. On to Beaumaris Castle (13th century) which sits in a quaint little town that had some terrific views of the snow capped mountains over the sea. Lastly to Conwy Castle which is one of the finest surviving castles in Britain with eight towers.

We were two nights in Llandudno, a touristy town that is fairly quite in winter. We stayed at the Burleigh Guest House which was an exceptionally nice B&B with hosts (Steve & Julie Wood) that were super. At £25 pppn, it was quite a deal. For dinner, our hosts suggested the fixed price 3 course menu with wine (£15) two doors away at the Empire Hotel. It was excellent. One of the best values of our trip.

A day trip to Liverpool included the Beatles Museum and the Maritime Museum. I thoroughly enjoyed the Maritime Museum, especially the International Slavery Museum. We toured the two cathedrals (yes two) and both are worth the time. We were a bit disappointed at the Anglican Cathedral as the docents had no knowledge or information regarding the origin of the stained glass, which originated in West Virginia at the Blenko Glass Co. a few miles from my wife's childhood home. We decided that all the glass in the place originated at Blenko and took appropriate pictures.

Our trip to Liverpool was primarily to meet my wife's childhood penpal who she corresponded with from 1962 to 1970. She found him recently by simply googling his name and town and he agreed to be our guide for Liverpool. For dinner, his wife prepared a traditional Liverpool dish, scouse. Back in North Carolina we have a similar dish called beef stew.

The next day started with a three-hour journey to Warwick and a noon check in at the Chesterfield Guest House. No complaints. John & Eileen are good hosts. We spent most of the afternoon at Warwick Castle. There’s a lot to see. Allow 3-4 hours minimum. Lots for the kids here. Imagine Madame Tussaud’s at a castle. This one's definitely a "do again" as we rushed through in order to see a few other things in Warwick. If you're short on time, skip the Warwickshire Museum and the Lord
Leycester Hospital, but don't miss the Collegiate Church of St. Mary, especially the Beauchamp Chapel. We had cream tea at Thomas Oken Tea Room and it has quite a selection of teas and the biggest scones I've seen yet. Oh yes, I just had to go to an ATM today and get cash when I heard that the £ was $1.37. Just couldn't pass up a good sale.

Our last full day starts with Stratford on Avon and then on to Windsor. Shakespeare's home was interesting with the period actors, especially the one playing Shakespeare's father. Nash's house was a little ho hum. Anne Hathaway's home is worth the time. Very interesting and knowledgeable guides. Saw a total of four other tourists at all three of these places. Found a chocolate shop, Truffles Chocolatier, across from Shakespeare's home that not only sells Belgium chocolates (Leonidas) but also has a good variety of English chocolates that were quite good.

We arrived in Windsor in time to do the castle and then had dinner at the Tower Restaurant across the street from the castle. Excellent food and presentation. Although Windsor isn’t that far from the rental return at Heathrow (10 miles), allow plenty of time if you are traveling during morning rush hour. It took us about 30 minutes just to get out of Windsor. Car return at EuropCar was quick and easy.

The return flight to RDU was on time and half full. Plenty of room to stretch out in cattle class. The longest wait anywhere was the passport control line at RDU. About 30 minutes and we were near the middle of the line. The immigration agents were quite chatty. I guess when you only get one flight a day from Europe, you have to make it last.

Overall, no hitches or problems. I’m still waiting for any traffic camera citations. Although some of the areas we covered aren’t on most American tourist’s agendas, they were filled with history and beauty. We will definitely return.

jeff49

Part 4 of 4 – Final Hints and Suggestions

Lastly, I’d like to pass on some hints. Some old, some new.

Phone call hints:
This is the first time I've taken a laptop along and did it primarily because we were staying at places that had WiFi. Even the sheep farm in the middle of Wales had WiFi. Used a MagicJack to call back to the US and it got a lot of use from our group. Since it costs nothing to call anywhere in the US, most in our group found reasons to call everybody that they could remember a phone number for. Very simple to use. Just plug it in the laptop and dial the number. No international codes required. Just 1-area code- and number. I also bought a T-Mobile sim to make local calls in the UK, mostly booking restaurants and confirming museum opening times. Cost was around 20p/minute. Got it in a vending machine at Heathrow for £10. Added £5 air time and only used about half of it.

Driving hints:
I've driven several times before in the UK but I'm constantly learning new things. The GPS unit really did keep me in the right direction; however, there are many variables that you can set on these things. Asking for the shortest distance is not always best. (See above note re Wood Lane in Kingswear) Gas stations have dispensing nozzles for unleaded and diesel side by side. Be careful when filling up. When meeting another car and there's only room for one, if the other driver flashes his lights, that's the signal for you to go first. I found the drivers in the UK to be very courteous, especially when someone wants in a lane of traffic. Review the UK Highway Code, especially the road signs, before attempting to drive. The UK uses lots of signs/symbols rather than words. You won't see "ONE WAY", but rather a blue arrow pointing in the right direction. You won't see "DO NOT ENTER", "NO STOPPING", etc., but rather signs with symbols that indicate what is not allowed.

Political hints:
Folks in the UK follow US politics much more closely than vice versa. One of the guides at Warwick Castle couldn't understand why I hadn't watched the presidential inauguration the day before. She had taken off work early to see it. Everyone seems to have an opinion regarding US politicians and policies. If you are not familiar with UK politics, you might want to brush up on who the major political players/parties are in the UK so you can carry on a half way intelligent conversation in a pub.

Money hints:
ATM’s are definitely the way to go for cash. Several larger merchants asked us if we wanted our credit charge purchases made in dollars instead of pounds. Each time I asked for the amounts in each currency and in each case the dollar amount was converted at a rate about 7- 10 cents higher than the current exchange rate. So we opted for pounds in every case. We used the GB Heritage pass as most of the major attractions we went to accepted it.

If you need further information, post here or you can email me.

[email protected]

Carrybean

What a great report with so many good details! What were the approximate temperatures while you were there? Do you return the phone or is it usable if you return & still have minutes on it?

jeff49

Carrybean,
I don’t think it got much below 30F at the coldest. Mostly, the highs were in the 40’s and low 50’s F.

The sim card can be used again on a return trip, but it does expire after a long period of inactivity. I used it in my quad band Razr that I use all the time back in the US. Just pop it in and immediately you have service. No registration required.

caroline_edinburgh

Interesting insights, Jeff. I was particularly interested in your 'political hints' - and yes, we recorded the inauguration and watched a couple of hours of it !

You certainly packed a lot in and put me to shame, for one.

I was quite surprised at your description of Cardiff Castle as "a mix of 1000-year-old structures and some more modern improvements" - I wouldn't have expected our American cousins to regard late 19th / early 20th century as modern (And actually the older parts are 2000 years old - Roman.)

BKP

Thank you for such a detailed trip report. I have a question about your b&b choices. How did you find them? Did you have reservations before you left the states? We would like to use b&b's more but I hesitate because the inexpensive ones have such rinky dink websites but the polished ones are so much more expensive!

bdjtbenson

Jeff,

Did you have your T-mobile razr phone unlocked at home before going? Mine is "set up" for international calling but I think I still have to go to a store for unlocking before I can buy a Sim card.

jeff49

BKP

Most of the B&B’s we booked before we left the US. There are lots of web sites that list them. After finding one that looks good, I usually go to TripAdvisor and see if there are any reports. If not, I google the name and the word “review” to see if there are other reviews. Sometimes, though, you just have to take a chance, which is what we did for the B&B in the middle of Wales on a sheep farm. Turned out to be one of the best B&B’s of the trip.

Let me also mention that more B&B’s are requiring deposits and not all take credit cards, which can be a problem if you’re booking from the US. The sheep farm required a deposit, but they waved it since they didn’t take credit cards and I had no way to get them a check in £’s. When someone accepts a booking without a deposit, I call after landing to let them know I’ve arrived, and I call again on the day that I’ve booked to reconfirm that I’m on the way. If they are nice enough to waive the deposit, I’ll make the extra calls to assure them I’m not a deadbeat.

The B&B’s that accepted credit cards charged an additional fee, so we paid cash for all our stays. We usually aim for B&B’s that are around £25/pppn. Overall, I would say that we’ve been happier with those in rural areas. Traveling in winter often means you are the only ones staying there.

BKP

jeff49 -- thanks! I think we just need to do some more research and then take a leap of faith!

309pbg

Thank you, I very much enjoyed your post!

tomboy

Jeff-curious about the Magic Jack. What do you use for a microphone on your laptop?

jeff49

Bdjtbenson

My Razr was unlocked when I bought it, but you are correct in assuming that you will need to get yours unlocked before using another company’s sim. If your current provider is T-Mobile and you have been with them for a while, they may give you the unlock codes if you ask. If not, you might try Craig’s List as there are several ads where I live for unlocking service.


Tomboy,

You can plug any landline phone into the MagicJack. I bought a cheap $5 one at WalMart and it worked fine for making and receiving calls.

irishface

Really enjoyed this report. thanks for including prices of B&Bs.

azzure

Wow - lots of good stuff here. Really enjoyed the techie stuff as well.

ElendilPickle

Great trip report; thanks for posting it!

Lee Ann

opus

Great report--I am laughing just thinking about driving Above Town rd in Dartmouth or Wood Lane in Kingswear without warning--hope you were coming down rather than up? Having walked down those many times I tend to throw myself in the verge when a car--or tractor--arrives.

Visiting in January is always nice as the crowds are small and the prices low but you miss the gardens (Coleton Fishacre is gorgeous) and the boats up the River Dart (and Agatha Christy's home!). Yours sounds like a well planned holiday--and one you enjoyed very much.

You seem to have gotten a good rate on your rental car as well!

cheers,

meg

annhig

hi jeff,

you certainly packed a lot in and have a neat turn of phrase - i loved "On to Pendennis Castle, which is a 450-year-old facility that has quite a history".

we were there at Christmas and it was a bit busier than during your visit. according to the season, they do medieval christmas dancing and carolling, jousting, outdoor theatre, etc. etc.

glad you enjoyed your "flying visit" to cornwall,

regards, ann

tomboy

Jeff-
So do I understand correctly, a $5 wall phone, plus a $10 MagicJack, plugged into a laptop, gets you free phone calls via wi-fi(skype or something like that)?