DeeDee

We will be looking for a place to grab some food before a train ride in the Napoli Centrale area on a Sunday morning. We are thinking of either some "picnic" fixings to carry on the train or a quick bite to eat somewhere nearby the train station. Anyone has any recommendations? What will be open on Sunday morning in late May?

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

bilboburgler

I'd wander down towards the harbour (not far or catch a bus) plenty of little bars and restaurants down there) had a great spag and clams.

sandralist

You'll probably need to ask your hotel. In many Italian towns and cities it is customary for some food shops to be open in the mornings pretty much coinciding with mass hours, so that people can pick up some food for lunch on their way home. But the area around the train station is fairly complex, and you'll need precise directions. Immediately around the train station and inside it you will probably find any number of bars selling plain sandwiches and the usual train station stuff like chips, drinks, etc.

One place I would surely go is Attanasio, a legendary pastry shop not far from the train station open all day Sunday. They serve warm sfogliatelle (two kinds) and other breads and treats. Traditionally, sfogliatellie were carried by shepherds and farm workers into the fields for lunch, because they are rich in protein (egg and cheese). So it's not exactly bad for you! Attanasio is at Vico Ferrovia 1/2/3/4.

You can't really "wander" toward the harbor if you have a train to catch. It is on the opposite side of town. It doesn't sound like you have time for a sit down lunch anyway, but if you are lookng for a restaurant in that neighborhood, Mimi Alla Ferrovia is one of the very best in Napoli for classic Neapolitan cuisine (which is one of the great regional cuisines of Italy for pasta and fish).

http://www.sfogliatelleattanasio.it/index.html

http://www.mimiallaferrovia.it

sandralist

In case it wasn't clear, Mimi Alla Ferrovia is near the train station, not the harbor.

bilboburgler

Less than a km, hardly a hike.

sandralist

@bilbo, I thought you were referring to the area around Castel Nuovo, which is more than 2kms distant from the train station. The harbor area closest to the train station is quite industrial in my recollection, with the actual waterfront inaccessible because of the port infrastructure, and while there is a market halfway down there, near Porta Nolana, I am not sure much is going on there on Sundays. I would definitely ask the hotel before heading in that direction. Did you have lunch there on a Sunday?

sandralist

(Or, bilbo, maybe you could just be more specific about which streets you are referring to, because some of the area down there really is just miles of fenced off warehouse, parking lots, train yards, etc.)

bilboburgler

That part of the harbour from which the ferries depart from.

Waldo

I agree with Sandralist 100% in everything she says, except that I'm not sure if Mimi is open on sunday mornings. However, if you walk a very short distance down Corso Armando Luccci, on which the train station exit is located, there is a great neighborhood restaurant, which I often visit. The name is Franco's. It's on the right hand side as you go down Armando Lucci. There is also the Hotel Terminus right at the train station. I've never eaten there, but it's supposed to be pretty good.

DeeDee

Thank you for your replies. I had already heard of Attanasio, glad to know it is open on Sundays. Please let me clarify...I believe we will have about two hours to wait for the train upon arrival at the station. There are four of us traveling, so I was thinking that two of us could venture out to find some food to bring back to either take on the train or eat in the station. That way the bags could be watched by the two remaining behind. We aren't staying at a Naples hotel. We will be coming from Amalfi and heading to Rome on the train. I would be interested in a take-away food option or market with lunch fixings in the train station area. Waldo, is Franco's open on Sundays? Have take away options? Thanks so much.

sandralist

You might try asking on the Tripadvisor message forum for Naples about the Porta Nolana market. It is best known for its fish market, which I am fairly certain will not be operating on Sundays, but it also other vendors which should be open. You can easily find on Google where the Porta Nolana market is, and it is not far from the train station. You might also find some pizzeria operating on Sundays at that hour, but it wouldn't be the norm. Like I said, however, the train station will have options, so you won't starve. But the neighborhood of the Porta Nolana is really quite startling and gritty urban if you have just come from the Amalfi and not the 3rd world.

Absent any detailed information from a Neapolitan local, I think my strategy would be to head to Attanasio's first, and it is quite possible you will find other food vendors open nearby Attanasio's, so no need to go off to Porta Nolana as well. However, given that the train trip to Rome is only one hour, and given that there will be food vendors in the train station itself, I wouldn't make a project of collecting too much food to bring back to the station. Maybe 2 people could go out to Attanasio and load up on its fabulous treats, then make a stop by Caffe Mexico for a great cup of coffee, and return to the train station. Everybody can grab some good old train station panini to go with the Attanasio treats -- and the other two who got left behind could slip out after for some Caffe Mexico coffee before the train departs. It is right across from the station.

If you have time before you leave the Amalfi, maybe you could get something easy to take with you from a gourmet store there (breads, salume, fresh fruits...)

As for the area where the ferries leave, near Castel Nuovo/Stazione Marritima, it really isn't doable in your time frame.

Blueeyedcod

If you have two hours, store your luggage at Napoli Centrale (easy to do - follow the signs), then cross the street to Metro Line 1, buy a couple of tickets an hop on the train two stops to Toledo (Piscinola is your direction).

Hop off at Toledo - Naples' 'high street' and take a look around - there will be shops open - one of my favourites is in Galleria Umberto - just look for the line - best pastries ever. You could drop into Gambrinus and have a coffee. Oscar Wilde used to hang out here. It's a stunning place. A short walk across Piazza Plebescito and you'll get a great view across the bay toward Vesuvius for a couple of quick photos.

If this sounds too complicated then....

The station itself has plenty of food shops so if its snacks and things you want, just go to the lower basement level. Everything will be open. There is a great cafe just to your left at the bottom of the escalator and plenty of other food options. No real need to even leave the station if you don't want to.

sandralist

Having actually stayed in the Galleria Umberto (there is a hotel on the upper floors), I can assure you are not going to find food shops there open on a Sunday and their kiosk for pastries, Sfogliatelle Mary, doesn't bake them there and they are not warm. I also prefer Caffe Mexico for taste (as much as I like to read Oscar Wilde).

If you want to go sightseeing in Napoli, storing your luggage is a fine idea, and there is lots to see. (I'd hop in a cab and go to Cappella Sansevero myself). But if it is pastries and coffee you want, train station area is good.

Blueeyedcod

Funny because I was there just recently - as in a few weeks ago - and Sfogliatelle Mary did have warm sfogliatelle.

Blueeyedcod

@ Sandralist - Oh - and I wasn't referring to 'finding food shops in Galleria Umberto' - simply directing the OP to one I like - wow your tone is very sharp.

DeeDee

Great ideas, thanks.

Waldo

To Sandralist and all persons interested in the Galleria Umberto--A strange story: When the Galleria was built, it was a great wonder, but more amazing, especially for those times, not one accident or loss of life happened, especially with that big glass roof. However, the first day it opened, the architect and financier of the building was inspecting that glass roof and the poor guy fell through one of the glass panels and dropped to his demise. That was a helluva fall!
Sfogliatelle Mary cannot compare to Attanasio. Caffe Mexico is one my favorite hangouts. Wish I were there now.

sandralist

Thanks, Waldo, for the somewhat grim details!

Blueeyedcod,

Your tone is often sharp too I've noticed, but that aside, since the original question was about finding food in Napoli for a "picnic" within 2 hours on a Sunday, then traveling to the opposite side of Napoli from the train station to an area where, on a Sunday, open food shops are very hard to come by struck me as advice likely to result in them not getting lunch at all. (They would need to budget time to stow and retreieve luggage, and if unwilling to take taxis, rely on Sunday public transport -- and then good luck with finding food or being able to nab some back at the train station in time to catch the train.) The warm sfogliatelle sold by Sflogliatelle Mary are baked elsewhere, transported to the food cart, and reheated. They sit there for hours, and no guarantee they stay hot. Try Attanasio's sometime! It's right near the train station, and easy for anybody transiting in out of the city.

tdk320n

TTT

Blueeyedcod

<travelling to the opposite side of Napoli>

The opposite side? Naples is a big place as I'm sure you are aware. I was directing the OP to the main shopping street which is two stops on the metro - not to Posillipo. You also changed your tune about the sfogliatelle at Marys being warm and really... if they're baked elsewhere I don't see the many Neapolitan locals who queue to buy them being overly concerned about that.

OP - enjoy your Sunday morning in Naples whatever you do.Two hours is plenty of time to stow your bags and steal a look around if you choose to. Otherwise you'll find lots to eat at Napoli Centrale - including a McDonalds just outside and to your right (if that floats your boat!).