Spellbound in Paris: an enthusiatic first-timer's report
#42
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Thanks for all the kind words.
Okay, SHOPPING:
I'm really not that much of a shopper, but I became one in Paris. The display windows are so beautiful and being there in the off-season it seemed we had the streets to ourselves. I had a list of people I wanted to buy for (including myself, of course!), so I came home with:
Fleur de sel and raspberry vinegar from a shop on Isle St. Louis
Jarred tapenades from Olivers and Co.
Tea from Mariages Freres
A bottle of Bordeaux from Monoprix
Macaroons and a set of teas and cocoa from Laduree
Coasters from a vendor on the Seine (really just so I could ask the guy about a boat cruise!)
Lingerie from Etam on Rue de Passy
Lavendar oil from a shop on Rue Mouffetard
From a neat toy store in the Marais, French children's books for the kids
And, super-cheesy but I couldn't resist: from the Orsay gift shop, a tie for DH and scarf for me in matching Van Gogh's Irises!
Okay, SHOPPING:
I'm really not that much of a shopper, but I became one in Paris. The display windows are so beautiful and being there in the off-season it seemed we had the streets to ourselves. I had a list of people I wanted to buy for (including myself, of course!), so I came home with:
Fleur de sel and raspberry vinegar from a shop on Isle St. Louis
Jarred tapenades from Olivers and Co.
Tea from Mariages Freres
A bottle of Bordeaux from Monoprix
Macaroons and a set of teas and cocoa from Laduree
Coasters from a vendor on the Seine (really just so I could ask the guy about a boat cruise!)
Lingerie from Etam on Rue de Passy
Lavendar oil from a shop on Rue Mouffetard
From a neat toy store in the Marais, French children's books for the kids
And, super-cheesy but I couldn't resist: from the Orsay gift shop, a tie for DH and scarf for me in matching Van Gogh's Irises!
#44
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Jocelyn. Loved reading about your adventures. My friend and I are going March3 for 4 days. I think we'll be like you and your friend with the map out. we want to ride the metro so that should be interesting. Would you suggest taking a shuttle from the airport to our hotel?? We're staying in the Latin Quarter. This is our biggest concern-is how to get to our hotel. So the weather is in 40-50's? Also, are the boats running alone the Seine this time of year?? Loved your enthusiam. Nancy
#45
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nancbanana,
A shuttle or taxi would certainly be easiest. The metro, though, cost less than 8E per person and even we could figure it out with minimal confusion. Keep in mind you'll have to lug your bags up and down stairs. Our hotel was fairly close to an RER B station, which is the line from the airport, so we didn't have to mess with a transfer. Ask your hotel which metro line(s) you'd need to take. If we'd had to mess with a transfer I don't know if we'd have done it.
Yes, the Seine cruises were running! We did the Vendetta Pont Neuf, which we really liked. It leaves from a landing under the Pont Neuf bridge, on the left bank.
I think we got lucky with the weather; it was much colder the day we left. Keep checking the 10 day forecast on weather.com.
Which hotel did you choose? I hope you two have a great time!
A shuttle or taxi would certainly be easiest. The metro, though, cost less than 8E per person and even we could figure it out with minimal confusion. Keep in mind you'll have to lug your bags up and down stairs. Our hotel was fairly close to an RER B station, which is the line from the airport, so we didn't have to mess with a transfer. Ask your hotel which metro line(s) you'd need to take. If we'd had to mess with a transfer I don't know if we'd have done it.
Yes, the Seine cruises were running! We did the Vendetta Pont Neuf, which we really liked. It leaves from a landing under the Pont Neuf bridge, on the left bank.
I think we got lucky with the weather; it was much colder the day we left. Keep checking the 10 day forecast on weather.com.
Which hotel did you choose? I hope you two have a great time!
#48
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Jocelyn, the Vendetta Pont Neuf..if you annoy them they will hold it against you until they throw you in the river ? LOL
I am looking forward to the rue Cler shopping for oils and lavender products.
I am so impressed that you took the metro to your hotel!
I am looking forward to the rue Cler shopping for oils and lavender products.
I am so impressed that you took the metro to your hotel!
#50
You guys made a great choice. Way to go.
Oh, now that you're back, I guess I'm allowed to say other stuff too. I'm leaving for Paris in three days and this is helping pump me up. We're staying in the Latin Quarter too. Hoping for good(ish?) weather. Sounds like you packed a lot into your four days.
I have eaten twice at Maree Verte. The first time it was recommended by the guy at the desk at our hotel, which was not the same or related to your hotel. I loved that smoked duck and artichoke appetizer so much that I dragged my husband and daughter there a year later. Wasn't as impressed the second time, so I'm glad you had a good experience there.
Oh, now that you're back, I guess I'm allowed to say other stuff too. I'm leaving for Paris in three days and this is helping pump me up. We're staying in the Latin Quarter too. Hoping for good(ish?) weather. Sounds like you packed a lot into your four days.
I have eaten twice at Maree Verte. The first time it was recommended by the guy at the desk at our hotel, which was not the same or related to your hotel. I loved that smoked duck and artichoke appetizer so much that I dragged my husband and daughter there a year later. Wasn't as impressed the second time, so I'm glad you had a good experience there.
#51
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I know exactly what you meant in your original post, Jocelyn. The spot I fell in love with Paris is on the right-bank side of the Pont d'Arcole, by the Hotel de Ville. It was about 8 in the morning, sunny with a clear sky, and I looked down the river and it took my breath away.
#52
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We (my wife, myself, and my 7 month old) were there for our first time for about same period as the two of you (arrived Thursday at 11 am or so, left Monday at 2pm or so), and also absolutely fell in love this incredible, beautiful, gracious city and its people. We stayed in the Fifth a block from Rue Mouffetard at Hotel Residence Monge (which was absolutely perfect for us). I will write more later, but we had a very similar experience, and are now in our post-Paris mourning/longing/wondering where to buy anything remotely close to a "real" baguette phase... It was so much more magical than we could have ever imagined!
We will write more - I am putting together a web site chronicling our experience, including some of the 476 pics we took. Thanks for your posts - it has really lifted our spirits back to the land where stinky cheese "smells like the feet of angels" as another traveler once said of Paris...
Bon soiree...
We will write more - I am putting together a web site chronicling our experience, including some of the 476 pics we took. Thanks for your posts - it has really lifted our spirits back to the land where stinky cheese "smells like the feet of angels" as another traveler once said of Paris...
Bon soiree...
#53
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Welcome home and thanks for sharing such a descriptive report. I lived in Paris for about 9 months and I felt like you every morning that I woke up. The spell never wore off! I finally went back 20 years later with my family, and guess what...it was just as enchanting! It is truly an amazing city.
#55
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I've been prancing around town this morning wearing my French scarf, munching on a baguette in the car, trying <i> so </i> hard to be Parisian.
Judy/Starspinners: yes, we did have the kir royale at Maree Verte, but at the time we didn't know what it was! Now that I know, I'll serve it at my next dinner party, which I suspect will be French-themed, anyway.
Nikki, I hope you have a great time!
Ira, I hate to ask, but what's an MCP?
axsys, I can't wait to see your report! Be sure to provide a link for us. Wasn't that warm, misty Friday the best? For baguettes, see if you can find one from La Brea Bakery. Our SuperTarget carries it. It has a hint of sourdough-y flavor, but the texture is pretty true.
More, huh? Let's see...
Despite all the walking we did, I gained two pounds on the trip.
Fashion report:
The word of the day is scarves! It seemed every man, woman and child was wearing a scarf: silk, knit, whatever. Colors were very muted; lots of black, gray, and beige.
Food markets:
I couldn't believe what I saw at the outdoor food markets. Perfect strawberries, figs, greens...it looked like summertime! Where does all this gorgeous produce come from in February? Question for you all: we saw this strange-looking vegetable that resembled a cauliflower, except it was pale green and had spikey flowerettes. What was that? I took a picture, so once I get those organized I can post it.
Flight:
Our flight on Northwest was pretty unremarkable. One cautionary note: we took an Airbus 330, and on both legs, the window seat had a fixed box underneath, taking away lots of leg room. Not fun for us as we're both pretty tall. One big plus was that on their individual TV screens there were computer games available to play. I think Becky and I played Bejeweled for 5 hours straight on the way back!
Judy/Starspinners: yes, we did have the kir royale at Maree Verte, but at the time we didn't know what it was! Now that I know, I'll serve it at my next dinner party, which I suspect will be French-themed, anyway.
Nikki, I hope you have a great time!
Ira, I hate to ask, but what's an MCP?
axsys, I can't wait to see your report! Be sure to provide a link for us. Wasn't that warm, misty Friday the best? For baguettes, see if you can find one from La Brea Bakery. Our SuperTarget carries it. It has a hint of sourdough-y flavor, but the texture is pretty true.
More, huh? Let's see...
Despite all the walking we did, I gained two pounds on the trip.
Fashion report:
The word of the day is scarves! It seemed every man, woman and child was wearing a scarf: silk, knit, whatever. Colors were very muted; lots of black, gray, and beige.
Food markets:
I couldn't believe what I saw at the outdoor food markets. Perfect strawberries, figs, greens...it looked like summertime! Where does all this gorgeous produce come from in February? Question for you all: we saw this strange-looking vegetable that resembled a cauliflower, except it was pale green and had spikey flowerettes. What was that? I took a picture, so once I get those organized I can post it.
Flight:
Our flight on Northwest was pretty unremarkable. One cautionary note: we took an Airbus 330, and on both legs, the window seat had a fixed box underneath, taking away lots of leg room. Not fun for us as we're both pretty tall. One big plus was that on their individual TV screens there were computer games available to play. I think Becky and I played Bejeweled for 5 hours straight on the way back!
#56
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By the way, I emailed Becky to ask her what her highlight of the trip was, embarassed to tell her mine. Turns out we have the same favorite experience: hot chocolate at Laduree! He he!
#58
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Joycelyn,
I will be going to Paris for the first time in October and I must confess that I was never that enthusiastic about Paris until I started planning my trip. No particular reason why Paris wasn't on top of my list of places to see, just wanted to go elsewhere first. Anyway, after reading your report, you've really got me excited about Paris. I'm really looking forward to it and I've saved your report as reference.
I will be going to Paris for the first time in October and I must confess that I was never that enthusiastic about Paris until I started planning my trip. No particular reason why Paris wasn't on top of my list of places to see, just wanted to go elsewhere first. Anyway, after reading your report, you've really got me excited about Paris. I'm really looking forward to it and I've saved your report as reference.