isabel

Hola - I just posted my photos from my July trip to Madrid, Segovia, Avila, Toledo and Salamanca. They are at: www.pbase.com/annforcier

I do better photos than I do trip reports, so the photos really chronical where I went, but I'll try to give a bit of report. I find other people reports so helpful when planning my trips that I just have to try and give back a little. I also want to thank all the people whose help on this forum really made the trip wonderful - there were lots but especially kenderina, lincasanova, lolly, cruiseluv, and Magellan_5

Background - I did 14 days in Spain followed by 6 in Scotland. This was my third trip to Spain in two years - I did Barcelona in 06 and Seville, Cordoba and Granada this past March. This was a solo trip, I've traveled all over western Europe and done a little bit of solo traveling, but mostly with my husband, daughter, or a friend. But I had a fabulous time and really love Spain.

OVERALL IMPRESSIONS. Spain is definitely now on my list of favorite countries. It�s not Italy (or France) but it�s close. After completing my third trip in 2 years (plus one to Portugal) I feel I�ve seen a good deal of Spain and loved most of what I saw. Sevilla was definitely my favorite, closely followed by Granada, Barcelona and Segovia. Also really like Salamanca, and Madrid was a lot better than some people make it out to be. Central Spain lacks a little of the �wow� that I felt in Andalusia and Barcelona but was still pretty wonderful.

Segovia was my favorite town in Central Spain � some really awesome sights � The Aqueduct, Alcazar, and Cathedral, as well as some great �lesser� sights: the cool green walks around town down by the rivers; the views from the road surrounding town; the Plazas, especially Plaza Mayor and Plaza San Martin; the quiet back streets and pretty churches. There was a nice mix of tourists and locals. Good evening people watching. Just a nice feeling for the town and I�m glad I spent 3 or 4 days there.

Salamanca was also great. Again, some awesome sights � Cathedral, Plaza Mayor, University. Lots of smaller plazas (Santa Anaya was one of my favorites), tons of gorgeous churches, nice Roman Bridge, very cool Art Nouveau Museum, great people watching. Lots of young university students from all over the world. Another great town to relax in as well as sight see. I wasn�t the least bit bored after three days there.

Toledo is another incredible place. The setting of the town, on the hill in a bend in the river, is the best part. It�s cathedral interior is one of the best (size plus interesting). Lots of other really worthwhile sights: Museo Santa Cruz, Hospital de Taverna, Sinagoga Sta Maria La Blanca. A lot of beautiful cloisters. The main plaza, Plaza Zocodover, was not as conducive to relaxing as Segovia of Salamanca�s . The town as a whole was not as great a place to just �be�, to soak up atmosphere, people watch and revel in being in old Europe. But I felt it was worth more than the day trip many tourists give it. The main route between Plaza Zocodover and Santa Tome (with the cathedral in the middle) was pretty crowded during mid day, but a two minute walk away from there and streets were very empty.

Three days in each (had four in Segovia but did a day trip from there to Avila) was about right. If I�d had another day in each town I�d have done more �relaxing� but I didn�t really feel deprived with the time I did have. I�d hate to have had just one day in any of them.

isabel

Madrid – According to conventional wisdom you either love it or hate it. Well I guess I’m the exception that proves the rule because I didn’t either love it or hate it. Definitely didn’t hate it. It has some absolutely beautiful architecture, especially along Gran Via and Calle Mayor/Calle de Alcala. Building after building with gorgeous detailing, roof sculptures, etc. Most built in the early 20th Century. Some fabulous fountains, one of the best city parks I’ve experienced. The three big art museums together have an incredible collection and one, the Thyssen has to be just about my favorite art museum anywhere. On the other hand, the “old” Madrid, the streets around Plaza Major were really disappointing. For the most part they were dirty, and architecturally they were only marginally interesting at best. No pretty churches or pleasant plazas. The “plazas” (on the maps) were in reality just tiny parking lots. Some guidebooks describe the area as “atmospheric”. I didn’t think so. I had no desire to wander or linger in that area. And in the middle, both literally and figuratively, is Plaza Major. It is a rather impressive large square, but no where near as beautiful as the Plaza of the same name in Salamanca. It has no greenery or fountains, very little seating and no real “stunner” architectural standout.

Madrid certainly has a nice city “buzz” – decent food and shopping at all price levels. The metro is very nice – that at least is on a par with, or better than, the metros in Paris and London, and way better than NYC. In terms of safety, I never felt unsafe at all, and I wandered around as late as midnight. The metro was so clean and bright it felt very safe there, though I was only there in the daytime. There were signs in places like Starbucks (near Plaza Sol) warning of “professional thieves” but I never saw anything. There was your usual assortment of homeless people/beggars but no worse than any other large city. The only time it felt even a little “eerie” was early in the morning, before 9-10 am when the streets are pretty deserted. If you are comfortable in any other large city, you’d be fine in Madrid

Overall I’m glad I saw Madrid, and 3-4 days felt like a good amount of time. But it is soooo not Paris (or London or Rome or Florence or Lisbon). Just doesn’t have the “feel”. I’ve just finished three trips (over 2 years) to Spain and Madrid was my last stop, and it was my least favorite (behind Barcelona, Andalusia, Salamanca, Segovia and Toledo). But I wouldn’t have felt I’d seen Spain without it and I’m definitely not sorry I went. And while I’d return to Madrid, it’s not at the top of my list like many places in Europe where I’d go back again and again

Nikki

Hi Isabel, I was just in Madrid last week for the second time. The first was last summer with my friend and this time I went with my husband. Liked it a lot. Great nighttime atmosphere.

Glad you had a good trip. I'm looking forward to seeing your photos, but it won't be until I can get to a computer with a fast connection. Here on vacation in our house exchange in France, I have a verrrry slow one.

isabel

Hi Nikki, how was the weather when you were in Madrid, I just saw your other post about the weather in France. I was amazed at how nice the weather in central Spain in mid July was - most days highs in the upper 80s or low 90s but cooled down alot at night so the only time it was even a little uncomfortable was mid afternoon - and that's siesta time anyway. Of course I paid for it when I got to Scotland where the weather was awful. Hope you are enjoying France.

Suelynne

Absolutely wonderful photos! Thanks so much.

Nikki

Weather in Madrid was fantastic. Eighties during the day, sixties at night, I'd guess. Sunny and beautiful. Paying for it now.

artlover

isabel,
Thank you so much for this trip report and the beautiful photos! I too don't love or hate Madrid, but like it and was glad I went there.

I looked through your photos of Lisbon and Portugal too--am thinking of going--and from your pixs, I think I'm sold on it now.

Thanks again!

bobthenavigator

Beautiful images Ann--as always.
I spent 10 days in centro Spain in 2002 during Semanta Santa in Segovia, Salamanca, Avila and Madrid and captured many of the same shots that your eye perceived. However, I have never seen any of them. On Easter Sunday in Madrid I had my trusty Canon SLR and 8 rolls of 36 each slide film stolen from me in broad daylight--I fell for the old diversion scam. I see your shots now and could cry. I guess I will have to go back in 2008, but I may never capture the Easter processions in Segovia and Salamanca again. What a shame.

kathleen

Thanks for posting the report and the beautiful photos. Especially love the night scenes and the architectural detail shots!
We'll be in Spain next May and after seeing your photos I'm even more excited.

ComfyShoes

isabel, Awesome pictures and good report! Thanks.

crusty

Cool stuff. Maby I will appreciate them more after my trip to Madrid and Toledo this coming Nov..

isabel

Glad to know people are enjoying the photos. I use other people's photos to help decide what exactly I might want to see in any given place, or even if I want to go there, so I'm happy other people can make use of my photos.

Bob - that's so awful about loosing all those photos. I've been so paranoid that will happen to me that I've taken to putting my SD cards in my money belt (I made a little plastic sleve for them, and fortunately they are so tiny). I consider them a "valuable" right up there with the passport and credit cards. But at least now you have an excuse to have to go back.

I'm working on my hotel reviews and will post them soon.

GBbabe

isabel,

Was that picture of Santa Isabel taken from the window in your room in Toledo? I know I felt as if Santa Isabel was watching over me when I stayed in that room.

Suelynne

bobthenavigator: we were in that part of Spain in Semana Santa, 2002, as well. Saw processions in Salamanca on the Tuesday night, in Madrid on the Thursday night and the Good Friday daytime procession in Segovia. [We left for Granada on the Saturday.] Unfortunately our photos aren't digital but if any of these coincide with the ones you saw perhaps we could work out a way of letting you see them.

bobthenavigator

Thanks Sue, but I really get a kick from my own shots. I will just have to go back.

isabel

GBbabe - yes that photo was taken from my room. So we had the same room. Another fodorite had the same room, I remember when I was in the room thinking how cool it was that there was that connection. It's driving me crazy now cause I can't remember who it was - so I hope whoever it is sees this and replys. Anyway the Santa Isabel was a great little hotel, I'm working on my hotel reviews for the whole trip and will post in a little while.

Ian

Great pictures! And thank your for taking the time to label them all. So many pictures posts don't tell what the photo is of . . .

Ian

Magellan_5

Hi Isabel - I'm posting this here and on my thread. Saw your question on my Spain trip thread about Room 107 at Santa Isabel in Toledo. No, I didn't stay in that room. I stayed up on the third floor in the room with the lovely medieval "prison bars" on the window. All I would have needed was a big old chastity belt with a nice rusty lock on it to complete the picture ohhh myyyyy. Anyway, very nice trip report - your pictures are just lovely!

josele

isabel, I have been enjoying your photos, browsing almost all galleries. Some bring memories of my past travels, like Maine (a nibble at the Nubble) and Venice. I have seen in a reflection do not you use a pocket camera, but something bigger.
In your Madrid gallery I'd like to tell you that 347 is Iglesia de San Manuel y San Benito; The Egypt temple is Debod, and 422 is not the Victory Arch, but the Puerta de Hierro.
Regards.

isabel

josele - thanks for the information about those three photos, I'll fix the captions on those. You asked about the camera I use - I always have two, one a small point and shoot pocket size, and the other a larger camera - either an SLR or an SLR like camera. I switch back and forth so the photos on any gallery will have been taken with both cameras. Often the point and shoot gets just as good results as the larger more expensive camera.

ian - thanks, and you are right about the labeling. Since I use other people's photos to help me plan trips, I really appreciate it when you can know what you are looking at. Even when I sometimes get the labels a little wrong (as joselle pointed out). But I really try to know what I'm shooting.

Magellan - My room also had the bars, I guess they all did. Did add to the flavor of the place. So if you weren't the one in the room with Saint Isabel watching over you as you slept I wonder who it was, someone who gave great advice I remember (as did you). I also never ran into the "hissing" women, but I was watching out for them.