Scotland’s the Best, or Looking for Roots and Finding Single Malts (and Midges): long TR
Sep 26th, 2006, 07:56 AM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 689
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Scotland’s the Best, or Looking for Roots and Finding Single Malts (and Midges): long TR
We’re just back from our long-awaited trip to Scotland. My DH, celebrating a big birthday, wanted to explore his Scottish roots, and we decided we had waited far too long to visit there. (We both grew up in England.)
We had an outstanding trip: loved the scenery, the people we met, the scenery, the places we stayed… I’ll try to organize the TR so it will be helpful to other folks planning a trip there. We got so much great advice from knowledgeable Fodorites – I used reams of paper printing it all, and you didn’t ever steer us wrong.
We decided in the end (after much debate over where to go and in what order) to take the overnight train to Inverness, drive to Durness in the far north west, then back down the west coast of Scotland, finishing up in Edinburgh. So from London we went direct to Inverness, then Durness, Opinan (near Poolewe), Skye, Kentallen, Perth and Edinburgh, then back south to England.
<b>How we traveled</b>
After much research on the National Rail website (http://www.nationalrail.co.uk/, great resource for train times, routes and fares) and comparing of costs, we decided to go with a <b>4-day BritRail Flexipass</b>. That allowed us 4 days of travel anywhere in the UK, and included the Heathrow Express, a nice addition. Since we were also visiting rellies in the south of England, 4 days was not quite enough and 8 days was too many – so we took the 4-day option and bought a Bargain Berth on the overnight train to Inverness to cover the trip up to Scotland.
I bought the rail pass from BTS, very helpful folks. When I called, they suggested using the Senior Pass which is in First – I wasn’t sure we needed that, but it ended up being a great idea.
<b>Bargain Berth on the Caledonian Sleeper</b>: learned about this on Fodors, of course. You can buy the berths online from First ScotRail http://www.firstgroup.com/scotrail/c...eper/index.php. I never found out exactly what the release dates were for the limited number of berths, so just checked our travel date every Monday until it came up. (Now I see them posted on the website…) We got the one-way berths for 29 GBP each, a great deal (regular price starts at 75 GBP each). It’s the same trip, same train, same accommodation.
The Caledonian Sleeper leaves Euston station at around 8:00 pm (varies slightly by season), and arrives in Inverness just after 8:00 am next day. The check-in process was very simple: you already have an assigned cabin number, and walk along the platform till you find the right car. An attendant checks you in and shows you to your “room”, explaining how it all works. It’s a small cabin, with two single berths stacked on one wall, and just enough room to turn around in. Not a lot of baggage space, but we managed to get everything stowed okay. There is a small sink with hot running water in your cabin, and men’s and women’s loos (clean and well kept) at the forward end of each car (so wear jammies suitable for public display!) Each berth is already made up with fresh white bed linen, a tartan blanket, a comfy pillow and a reading light.
There’s nowhere to sit in your cabin other than the bunks (unlike Amtrak sleeper cars) so we stowed our stuff and headed to the lounge car. Very pleasant place to sit and talk or read, have a drink or bite to eat – we shared a bottle of wine and good cheese and pate plates, and a nice cup of coffee as the train pulled out and headed north. I had no trouble falling asleep, thought the berth was very comfortable and snug. The ride was pretty quiet, and I was just vaguely aware of occasional stops. When I woke up, we were travelling through heather-covered hills: ah, first sight of Scotland! Our attendant delivered our choice of tea or coffee and a small breakfast snack, and we arrived on time in Inverness. It’s a fine day, but noticeably cooler.
<b>Hertz car rental</b>: We found the best rate for car rental from BA (tied to our BA flight to London). We prepaid, declining the insurance because we were covered by our Visa Signature card (I checked this out thoroughly, on Fodors, and also on the Visa website. Um, was that thoroughly or obsessively?!) Nearest Inverness pickup spot is the Hertz office at the Thistle Hotel, so we took a taxi over and arrived as the desk was opening. I had my confirmation email from BA, which showed the pre-paid price in USD, with insurance clearly EXcluded. Woman on the desk was confused, tried to charge us that amount in GBP (almost double) with insurance INcluded. It took a call to the main office to get it all squared away, but eventually the price was confirmed, with no CDW insurance except the Visa card. Thanks to the obsessive research, I knew what we needed and stood firm on that when tried to steer otherwise. We knew that additional charges for extra driver, local fees etc. would be billed when we returned the car (bit of a rip, those totaled around 100 GBP!)
Finally done, we drove off (stay LEFT, stay LEFT) in our nice new Ford Focus wagon. Comfortable car, good handling, and good on gas too (just as well, at more than 6 GBP per gallon…)
<b>Where we stayed, and where we ate</b>
(By the way, when you are making reservations in Scotland, be sure you know if the rate is per person or per room…I show prices below for each place we stayed: PPPN is per person per night, and PRPN is per room per night.)
<b>Durness: Mackay’s Restaurant with Rooms</b> <http://www.visitmackays.com/
Chose this mainly because of their appealing website (nice photos) and it really blew us away. It is pretty far from everywhere: Durness is a small town in the north-western-most corner of Scotland: not much there (small grocery store, gas station, tourist info center, B&Bs, and an art/craft cluster. Mackay’s is an old stone building right on the intersection. Originally built by the owner’s great grandfather, Robbie and his wife Fiona are doing an outstanding job of creating a comfortable, warm and welcoming place, stylish and unpretentious. The rooms have all been renovated and are well equipped and decorated: top-notch bedding with down pillows and duvets, and such comfortable beds, tea/coffee maker, plasma TV, and even an iPod loaded with music! Modern spacious en-suite bathroom with tub and shower. The “restaurant” part was excellent, too. Small, nicely furnished dining room, friendly attentive service. Food was outstanding: most memorable were Mackay’s breakfast porridge with brown sugar and a dash of whisky ;-), “smoked haddock pot” appetizer, fish stew (Chris is a scallop diver), roasted veggie risotto, and an outstanding chocolate cake. The food was Scottish in nature, with top-notch ingredients and evidence of an expert hand in the kitchen. No bar, but Fiona served drinks or coffee in the small lounge. Fiona is a charming hostess, and takes time to talk to her guests and make everyone feel welcome. We loved it – hope we will stay there again one day, for longer.
B&B cost 45 GBP PPPN. Dinner was a la carte.
<b>Opinan: Na Fir Chlis B&B</b> <http://www.nafirchlis.co.uk/
Found this with Sheila’s help on the Undiscovered Scotland website. Run by Penny (who cooks) and Ian (who grows the veggies and bakes the bread) – they are friendly and welcoming hosts. It’s a modern house, customized for a B&B. They have 2 double rooms with en-suite bathrooms, all accessed via a spiral staircase: rooms are spotless and comfortable, and complete with tea-making supplies and a place to sit. On the ground floor the guest area is a big sitting/dining room, with TV, stereo, movies and books for our use. The room looks across the garden to Gruinard Bay – you could see the Stornoway ferry sailing out in the distance. When we made the reservation, Penny asked if we wanted to have dinner there, suggested we bring wine if we chose, and asked if there was anything we did not like to eat. We were glad we decided to take the dinner option, because it’s pretty far from anywhere else to eat! Penny is an excellent cook (the sticky toffee pudding and raspberry crème brulee were standouts!)
Dinner, B&B cost 36 GBP PPPN: no CC. (We appreciated that they made it easy for us to pay a deposit by providing a PayPal account.)
<b>Skye: Eilean Iarmain Hotel</b> http://www.eileaniarmain.com/
I have mixed feelings about our stay here. We chose it because it was our anniversary weekend and we decided it was okay to splurge a bit… Had a hard time making contact to get a reservation – the website didn’t work, and I got no response to my emails. In the end, I called and booked a “superior” room for the weekend, requesting dinner the first night. The hotel is on the south end of Skye, the Sleat peninsula – it was a beautiful setting. We could see the Isle Ornsay lighthouse from our bedroom window, and the mainland peaks behind. It was quiet and tranquil, and lovely (we were blessed with wonderful weather). The hotel had some charming elements: comfortable chintzy sitting room, dining room with big sunny windows, lively pub attached (live music Friday night). Our room was comfortable, more traditional, and the bathroom (with pink fixtures) was much in need of updating. But what did surprise me at that price level was that the only staff we saw the day we arrived (including dinner service) were two young men, probably in their late teens. They were pleasant enough, but not experienced. Check in was very casual, and the same young man asked us when we wanted dinner (5 courses for 31 GBP each), showed us to our room, answered the phone, and served dinner. The meal was nice, not stellar – and it took 2 ½ hours from start to end! After dinner, we chatted in the lounge with our fellow guests, who were similarly surprised about the dinner service.
Next morning at breakfast we met a very capable woman who I assume is the manager – her presence certainly energized the service. Don’t know if she served dinner also, because we ate in Broadford. I wish our young check-in guy had mentioned that we could also choose to eat in the pub – we might have preferred that option.
B&B cost 85 GBP PPPN: dinner was 31 GBP each.
We ate dinner the second night in Broadford, at the <b>Harbor View Cafe</b>. We came across the place by chance: we had stopped during the day at “Skye Surprises”, the multifunctional gas station/internet café/grocery store/Laundromat, and wandered down the road in search of coffee. We found great fair-trade coffee at the Harbor View nearby, and had chatted to Martin, the friendly owner. We saw the dinner menu, and decided to try it. After our drive round the island we returned, had an excellent meal cooked by Mrs. Martin: smoked mackerel, beef braised with wine and mushrooms, fresh veggies, berries and cream: (Good vegetarian and vegan options here, too.) We paid 38 GBP for two generous 3-course meals, with wine and coffee. They were doing good business, not surprisingly!
<b>Holly Tree Hotel, Kentallen</b> <http://www.hollytreehotel.co.uk/>
Small family hotel on Loch Linnhe, just south of Fort William. We stayed here (a) because we wanted to be close to Fort William but not in it (taking the Jacobite steam train) and (b) because Sheila recommended it!
Until the 1960’s, this was the railway station. Now it has been converted to a pleasant small hotel right on the water. Room was good size, comfortable, with a view over the loch and a modern en-suite bathroom. (View reminded us of Lake Maggiore…) Best of all was the dining room: huge glass walls facing the view, very good service, and outstanding food. Standouts there were an appetizer of prawns wrapped in smoked salmon; scallops; venison; and breakfast porridge with Glayva. Only downer was that they did not serve decaf coffee.
Dinner, B&B cost 80 GBP PPPN.
I hope I can always hold the mental image of waking up to that view after a rainy night: mist on the loch, water like glass, clouds on the hills opposite, small glimpses of pale blue sky: it was breathtaking, like a living watercolor painting.
<b>Parklands Hotel, Perth</b> http://www.theparklandshotel.com/
We had just one night in Perth, and this was a late choice. Found a not-bad rate offered for our date, and we liked the place very much (owned/run by a young couple). Location was very good, overlooking the South Inch park and a short walk to either downtown, the station, or the Tay river. Room was comfortable but a bit hot (it was a hot night) with a very nice very mod en suite bathroom.
B&B cost 99 GBP PRPN.
The hotel restaurant has hired the former chef of Let’s Eat, I believe, and has a good reputation – but we decided to try <b>63 Tay Street</b> and were very glad we did. It was a short walk from the hotel. A clean simple room, packed on a Tuesday night: excellent and friendly service. They served (free) yummy amuse-bouche as we were seated, then we had excellent haddock and leek risotto, tomato-fennel soup; roasted cod in a creamy curry-mussel sauce. Too full for dessert!
<b>2 Cambridge Street, Edinburgh</b> http://www.aboutscotland.com/edin/cambridge.html
Again, fell for the photos on the website…Location was great, just below the castle, and near theatres and Princes Street. Helene and Erlend are welcoming and interesting hosts, who renovated this classic townhouse when they moved here from another B&B. Décor is striking –my journal says: “Like sleeping in a Victorian jewel box”. Deep rich colors, 14-ft ceilings, very comfy brass bed with duvet and down pillows, and very mod en-suite bathroom. We ate breakfast in the sitting room with another couple staying there – very agreeable company, and original breakfast offerings that included Greek yoghurt with raspberries, poached eggs with parmesan over grilled asparagus, and omelet with smoked salmon. We did miss being able to make tea in our room, but Helene served tea and home-made cake when we arrived! And we will remember chatting to Erlend in the comfortable sitting room, and drinking a wonderful liqueur, home-made by a friend of his from herbs on his farm in the Alpes Maritimes.
B&B cost 95 GBP PRPN, (no CC).
<b>Eating in Edinburgh</b>: So many choices! But after all the traveling, we were flagging a bit and didn’t want to go far afield. First night, on Helene’s recommendation, we went across the street to the <b>Blue Bar Café</b> in the Traverse Theatre: very contemporary, casual place. Service pretty casual, too… You can have “lights” (size of a generous appetizer) or “mains” – same dish, but bigger portions. We had lights: Thai fish cakes or smoked mackerel with celeriac, then banger and mash or sea bream. A good choice when we just didn’t want to eat as much. Nice casual atmosphere.
Second night we were tired from walking all day in the rain, and wanted again to stay close to home. We chose <b>Stac Polly</b>, which we really liked. Small simple place, good friendly service. Loved haggis in phyllo parcels with wine/plum sauce, roasted halibut or sea bream, good coffee and “tablet” (like dulce de leche fudge, so yummy).
If you’ve stuck with this lengthy dissertation thus far, thanks! Have to go and do some work now.
I’ll be back in a day or two with what we saw and loved along the way (including those single malts...) 
We had an outstanding trip: loved the scenery, the people we met, the scenery, the places we stayed… I’ll try to organize the TR so it will be helpful to other folks planning a trip there. We got so much great advice from knowledgeable Fodorites – I used reams of paper printing it all, and you didn’t ever steer us wrong.
We decided in the end (after much debate over where to go and in what order) to take the overnight train to Inverness, drive to Durness in the far north west, then back down the west coast of Scotland, finishing up in Edinburgh. So from London we went direct to Inverness, then Durness, Opinan (near Poolewe), Skye, Kentallen, Perth and Edinburgh, then back south to England.
<b>How we traveled</b>
After much research on the National Rail website (http://www.nationalrail.co.uk/, great resource for train times, routes and fares) and comparing of costs, we decided to go with a <b>4-day BritRail Flexipass</b>. That allowed us 4 days of travel anywhere in the UK, and included the Heathrow Express, a nice addition. Since we were also visiting rellies in the south of England, 4 days was not quite enough and 8 days was too many – so we took the 4-day option and bought a Bargain Berth on the overnight train to Inverness to cover the trip up to Scotland.
I bought the rail pass from BTS, very helpful folks. When I called, they suggested using the Senior Pass which is in First – I wasn’t sure we needed that, but it ended up being a great idea.
<b>Bargain Berth on the Caledonian Sleeper</b>: learned about this on Fodors, of course. You can buy the berths online from First ScotRail http://www.firstgroup.com/scotrail/c...eper/index.php. I never found out exactly what the release dates were for the limited number of berths, so just checked our travel date every Monday until it came up. (Now I see them posted on the website…) We got the one-way berths for 29 GBP each, a great deal (regular price starts at 75 GBP each). It’s the same trip, same train, same accommodation.
The Caledonian Sleeper leaves Euston station at around 8:00 pm (varies slightly by season), and arrives in Inverness just after 8:00 am next day. The check-in process was very simple: you already have an assigned cabin number, and walk along the platform till you find the right car. An attendant checks you in and shows you to your “room”, explaining how it all works. It’s a small cabin, with two single berths stacked on one wall, and just enough room to turn around in. Not a lot of baggage space, but we managed to get everything stowed okay. There is a small sink with hot running water in your cabin, and men’s and women’s loos (clean and well kept) at the forward end of each car (so wear jammies suitable for public display!) Each berth is already made up with fresh white bed linen, a tartan blanket, a comfy pillow and a reading light.
There’s nowhere to sit in your cabin other than the bunks (unlike Amtrak sleeper cars) so we stowed our stuff and headed to the lounge car. Very pleasant place to sit and talk or read, have a drink or bite to eat – we shared a bottle of wine and good cheese and pate plates, and a nice cup of coffee as the train pulled out and headed north. I had no trouble falling asleep, thought the berth was very comfortable and snug. The ride was pretty quiet, and I was just vaguely aware of occasional stops. When I woke up, we were travelling through heather-covered hills: ah, first sight of Scotland! Our attendant delivered our choice of tea or coffee and a small breakfast snack, and we arrived on time in Inverness. It’s a fine day, but noticeably cooler.
<b>Hertz car rental</b>: We found the best rate for car rental from BA (tied to our BA flight to London). We prepaid, declining the insurance because we were covered by our Visa Signature card (I checked this out thoroughly, on Fodors, and also on the Visa website. Um, was that thoroughly or obsessively?!) Nearest Inverness pickup spot is the Hertz office at the Thistle Hotel, so we took a taxi over and arrived as the desk was opening. I had my confirmation email from BA, which showed the pre-paid price in USD, with insurance clearly EXcluded. Woman on the desk was confused, tried to charge us that amount in GBP (almost double) with insurance INcluded. It took a call to the main office to get it all squared away, but eventually the price was confirmed, with no CDW insurance except the Visa card. Thanks to the obsessive research, I knew what we needed and stood firm on that when tried to steer otherwise. We knew that additional charges for extra driver, local fees etc. would be billed when we returned the car (bit of a rip, those totaled around 100 GBP!)
Finally done, we drove off (stay LEFT, stay LEFT) in our nice new Ford Focus wagon. Comfortable car, good handling, and good on gas too (just as well, at more than 6 GBP per gallon…)
<b>Where we stayed, and where we ate</b>
(By the way, when you are making reservations in Scotland, be sure you know if the rate is per person or per room…I show prices below for each place we stayed: PPPN is per person per night, and PRPN is per room per night.)
<b>Durness: Mackay’s Restaurant with Rooms</b> <http://www.visitmackays.com/
Chose this mainly because of their appealing website (nice photos) and it really blew us away. It is pretty far from everywhere: Durness is a small town in the north-western-most corner of Scotland: not much there (small grocery store, gas station, tourist info center, B&Bs, and an art/craft cluster. Mackay’s is an old stone building right on the intersection. Originally built by the owner’s great grandfather, Robbie and his wife Fiona are doing an outstanding job of creating a comfortable, warm and welcoming place, stylish and unpretentious. The rooms have all been renovated and are well equipped and decorated: top-notch bedding with down pillows and duvets, and such comfortable beds, tea/coffee maker, plasma TV, and even an iPod loaded with music! Modern spacious en-suite bathroom with tub and shower. The “restaurant” part was excellent, too. Small, nicely furnished dining room, friendly attentive service. Food was outstanding: most memorable were Mackay’s breakfast porridge with brown sugar and a dash of whisky ;-), “smoked haddock pot” appetizer, fish stew (Chris is a scallop diver), roasted veggie risotto, and an outstanding chocolate cake. The food was Scottish in nature, with top-notch ingredients and evidence of an expert hand in the kitchen. No bar, but Fiona served drinks or coffee in the small lounge. Fiona is a charming hostess, and takes time to talk to her guests and make everyone feel welcome. We loved it – hope we will stay there again one day, for longer.
B&B cost 45 GBP PPPN. Dinner was a la carte.
<b>Opinan: Na Fir Chlis B&B</b> <http://www.nafirchlis.co.uk/
Found this with Sheila’s help on the Undiscovered Scotland website. Run by Penny (who cooks) and Ian (who grows the veggies and bakes the bread) – they are friendly and welcoming hosts. It’s a modern house, customized for a B&B. They have 2 double rooms with en-suite bathrooms, all accessed via a spiral staircase: rooms are spotless and comfortable, and complete with tea-making supplies and a place to sit. On the ground floor the guest area is a big sitting/dining room, with TV, stereo, movies and books for our use. The room looks across the garden to Gruinard Bay – you could see the Stornoway ferry sailing out in the distance. When we made the reservation, Penny asked if we wanted to have dinner there, suggested we bring wine if we chose, and asked if there was anything we did not like to eat. We were glad we decided to take the dinner option, because it’s pretty far from anywhere else to eat! Penny is an excellent cook (the sticky toffee pudding and raspberry crème brulee were standouts!)
Dinner, B&B cost 36 GBP PPPN: no CC. (We appreciated that they made it easy for us to pay a deposit by providing a PayPal account.)
<b>Skye: Eilean Iarmain Hotel</b> http://www.eileaniarmain.com/
I have mixed feelings about our stay here. We chose it because it was our anniversary weekend and we decided it was okay to splurge a bit… Had a hard time making contact to get a reservation – the website didn’t work, and I got no response to my emails. In the end, I called and booked a “superior” room for the weekend, requesting dinner the first night. The hotel is on the south end of Skye, the Sleat peninsula – it was a beautiful setting. We could see the Isle Ornsay lighthouse from our bedroom window, and the mainland peaks behind. It was quiet and tranquil, and lovely (we were blessed with wonderful weather). The hotel had some charming elements: comfortable chintzy sitting room, dining room with big sunny windows, lively pub attached (live music Friday night). Our room was comfortable, more traditional, and the bathroom (with pink fixtures) was much in need of updating. But what did surprise me at that price level was that the only staff we saw the day we arrived (including dinner service) were two young men, probably in their late teens. They were pleasant enough, but not experienced. Check in was very casual, and the same young man asked us when we wanted dinner (5 courses for 31 GBP each), showed us to our room, answered the phone, and served dinner. The meal was nice, not stellar – and it took 2 ½ hours from start to end! After dinner, we chatted in the lounge with our fellow guests, who were similarly surprised about the dinner service.
Next morning at breakfast we met a very capable woman who I assume is the manager – her presence certainly energized the service. Don’t know if she served dinner also, because we ate in Broadford. I wish our young check-in guy had mentioned that we could also choose to eat in the pub – we might have preferred that option.
B&B cost 85 GBP PPPN: dinner was 31 GBP each.
We ate dinner the second night in Broadford, at the <b>Harbor View Cafe</b>. We came across the place by chance: we had stopped during the day at “Skye Surprises”, the multifunctional gas station/internet café/grocery store/Laundromat, and wandered down the road in search of coffee. We found great fair-trade coffee at the Harbor View nearby, and had chatted to Martin, the friendly owner. We saw the dinner menu, and decided to try it. After our drive round the island we returned, had an excellent meal cooked by Mrs. Martin: smoked mackerel, beef braised with wine and mushrooms, fresh veggies, berries and cream: (Good vegetarian and vegan options here, too.) We paid 38 GBP for two generous 3-course meals, with wine and coffee. They were doing good business, not surprisingly!
<b>Holly Tree Hotel, Kentallen</b> <http://www.hollytreehotel.co.uk/>
Small family hotel on Loch Linnhe, just south of Fort William. We stayed here (a) because we wanted to be close to Fort William but not in it (taking the Jacobite steam train) and (b) because Sheila recommended it!
Until the 1960’s, this was the railway station. Now it has been converted to a pleasant small hotel right on the water. Room was good size, comfortable, with a view over the loch and a modern en-suite bathroom. (View reminded us of Lake Maggiore…) Best of all was the dining room: huge glass walls facing the view, very good service, and outstanding food. Standouts there were an appetizer of prawns wrapped in smoked salmon; scallops; venison; and breakfast porridge with Glayva. Only downer was that they did not serve decaf coffee.
Dinner, B&B cost 80 GBP PPPN.
I hope I can always hold the mental image of waking up to that view after a rainy night: mist on the loch, water like glass, clouds on the hills opposite, small glimpses of pale blue sky: it was breathtaking, like a living watercolor painting.
<b>Parklands Hotel, Perth</b> http://www.theparklandshotel.com/
We had just one night in Perth, and this was a late choice. Found a not-bad rate offered for our date, and we liked the place very much (owned/run by a young couple). Location was very good, overlooking the South Inch park and a short walk to either downtown, the station, or the Tay river. Room was comfortable but a bit hot (it was a hot night) with a very nice very mod en suite bathroom.
B&B cost 99 GBP PRPN.
The hotel restaurant has hired the former chef of Let’s Eat, I believe, and has a good reputation – but we decided to try <b>63 Tay Street</b> and were very glad we did. It was a short walk from the hotel. A clean simple room, packed on a Tuesday night: excellent and friendly service. They served (free) yummy amuse-bouche as we were seated, then we had excellent haddock and leek risotto, tomato-fennel soup; roasted cod in a creamy curry-mussel sauce. Too full for dessert!
<b>2 Cambridge Street, Edinburgh</b> http://www.aboutscotland.com/edin/cambridge.html
Again, fell for the photos on the website…Location was great, just below the castle, and near theatres and Princes Street. Helene and Erlend are welcoming and interesting hosts, who renovated this classic townhouse when they moved here from another B&B. Décor is striking –my journal says: “Like sleeping in a Victorian jewel box”. Deep rich colors, 14-ft ceilings, very comfy brass bed with duvet and down pillows, and very mod en-suite bathroom. We ate breakfast in the sitting room with another couple staying there – very agreeable company, and original breakfast offerings that included Greek yoghurt with raspberries, poached eggs with parmesan over grilled asparagus, and omelet with smoked salmon. We did miss being able to make tea in our room, but Helene served tea and home-made cake when we arrived! And we will remember chatting to Erlend in the comfortable sitting room, and drinking a wonderful liqueur, home-made by a friend of his from herbs on his farm in the Alpes Maritimes.
B&B cost 95 GBP PRPN, (no CC).
<b>Eating in Edinburgh</b>: So many choices! But after all the traveling, we were flagging a bit and didn’t want to go far afield. First night, on Helene’s recommendation, we went across the street to the <b>Blue Bar Café</b> in the Traverse Theatre: very contemporary, casual place. Service pretty casual, too… You can have “lights” (size of a generous appetizer) or “mains” – same dish, but bigger portions. We had lights: Thai fish cakes or smoked mackerel with celeriac, then banger and mash or sea bream. A good choice when we just didn’t want to eat as much. Nice casual atmosphere.
Second night we were tired from walking all day in the rain, and wanted again to stay close to home. We chose <b>Stac Polly</b>, which we really liked. Small simple place, good friendly service. Loved haggis in phyllo parcels with wine/plum sauce, roasted halibut or sea bream, good coffee and “tablet” (like dulce de leche fudge, so yummy).
If you’ve stuck with this lengthy dissertation thus far, thanks! Have to go and do some work now.
I’ll be back in a day or two with what we saw and loved along the way (including those single malts...) 
Sep 26th, 2006, 10:32 AM
#4
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 689
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the feedback: wish I could finish this today, but work is looming large...
Just one correction: I seemed to have renamed Fiona Mackay's husband, the scallop diver.
Should be Robbie. (Sorry Fiona, if you should read this!)
Just one correction: I seemed to have renamed Fiona Mackay's husband, the scallop diver.
Should be Robbie. (Sorry Fiona, if you should read this!)
Sep 27th, 2006, 01:27 PM
#6
Great start! Looking forward to the rest. Can't believe you are placing work ahead of your Fodors responsibilities!
(your report is taking a bit of the sour taste out of my mouth from a certain other Scotland trip report)
(your report is taking a bit of the sour taste out of my mouth from a certain other Scotland trip report)
Sep 28th, 2006, 07:33 AM
#7
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 689
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
janis -- yup, I know just the thread you mean... When I went back to look at the older thread from that poster, I remembered my original reaction -- yikes!
In the more ancient thread, you prophetically said: "Would be a pity for you to knock yourself out driving all over the country to end up declaring that it was all a 'waste of time'". (Looks as if that is just what happened!)
But it did make me ponder -- <b>why</b> do we travel? I guess some folks do it to use up points and claim another target achieved. Probably not most of the posters here.
Maybe that's a topic for a future thread?
In the more ancient thread, you prophetically said: "Would be a pity for you to knock yourself out driving all over the country to end up declaring that it was all a 'waste of time'". (Looks as if that is just what happened!)
But it did make me ponder -- <b>why</b> do we travel? I guess some folks do it to use up points and claim another target achieved. Probably not most of the posters here.
Maybe that's a topic for a future thread?
Sep 28th, 2006, 01:39 PM
#10
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 689
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Part Two: Where we went, and what we saw
One motive for our trip to Scotland was to explore Mr SB’s Scottish roots. We set off expectantly with only the flimsiest of background information. As you will see, we learned that we should have done a lot of ground work before we went – but more on that later.
We believed that the Bayne name means that DH is part of Clan Mackay, and the Mackays were in Sutherland – hence our desire to go to the far north-west. And who would not want to see a place with a name like Cape Wrath? (Well, maybe I can think of one or two people, but no matter.)
We were pre-armed with a good GB road atlas (bought on an earlier visit), and suggested driving directions/ times from the AA route planner website <http://www.theaa.com/> (that’s Automobile Association, not Alchoholics Anonymous!)
As faithful readers know from Part One of my post, we took the overnight train from London to Inverness then rented a car and started our road trip. (Stay LEFT, stay LEFT!). We quickly made our way out of Inverness to Lairg, where we stopped for break. We were too late for breakfast and too early for lunch, but the very kind manager of the only hotel in town offered to make us bacon sarnies to go with our coffee. Perfect!
Thus fortified, we set off for our first experience of driving highland single track roads. We are used to single track roads from our many visits to Dorset and the West Country, but found the Scottish version much easier to deal with (no hedges or stone walls). The passing places are clearly marked so you can see where they are as you approach. Because you can usually see far ahead, you know when someone is coming and can size up who should wait in a passing place. The etiquette is that whoever can do it easiest pulls into the passing place (or waits opposite) and does a quick signal or headlight flash to let the approaching vehicle know you are waiting. As they pass, you both do a little wave of thanks, and go on your way. It is also polite to pull over and let faster drivers pass -- they may be locals who can’t be lagging behind us amateurs. Although the roads are single track, all the ones we encountered were well paved. Only caveat is to watch out for drop-offs or ditches if you pull over too far. (This means the navigator spends some time in body English so as not to fall off the edge of the road!) The plus is, traffic volume is much lighter than we were used to, so I had time to ease gently into the single-track mode, and started enjoying it. It was a nice day – cool, some sun, some clouds.
We wanted to learn more about the Clearances, so followed the <b>Strathnaver Trail</b> (apparently created recently, using funds from the lottery.) The trail, which ends at the Strathnaver Museum in Bettyhill on the north coast, is well posted with stopping places and signs to tell you what had happened at various points. Scenery is empty green heather-covered hills, small lochs, some stands of fir trees, very few people. We saw just a few cars, and lots of sheep. We take a pleasant cream-tea break at Elizabeth’s Café, (listed in Scotland the Best) where we learn we are now in Mackay country. Then time for the museum: we walk along a path through a field and cemetery to the museum, housed in an old church. We are warmly greeted by the curator, who really loves visitors (and is passionate about his subject). The sad history of the Clearances, from both sides, is told on posters that were hand-lettered by children from the village school. We browse the small exhibits then head upstairs to the Clan Mackay room. Mr SB is thrilled to be there (especially when the art teacher points out an old photo of a Mackay clansman in full highland rig, who happens to looks a lot like my DH!)
Then we head west along the north coast, a mix of single track and two-lane roads, around Loch Tongue and Loch Eriboll (known as Loch ‘Orrible to WWII serviceman who waited there for winter convoys to form up before shipping out.) Doesn’t look ‘orrible to us: water is blue under a blue-grey sky, and it is palpably quiet. We easily find Mackay’s right on the corner in Durness, where the road turns south. We settle in and enjoy a warm welcome and a great meal.
Next day is the long-awaited trip to <b>Cape Wrath</b>. Fiona tells us that the first ferry leaves at 9:30, so we set up for the adventure with a hearty breakfast then head over to the ferry pier on the Kyle of Durness, about 2 miles away. There’s no-one there, and no boats –just a sign that says the first trip that day will be at 11... We walk briefly down the trail along the Kyle, and have our first encounter with MIDGES. We had forgotten about them, and about the fact that this is perfect weather for them: cloudy, dampish, little wind. We retreat to the hotel to regroup and get better prepared – that means covering exposed skin with Ultrathon, our DEET cream from an Africa trip. Works like a charm, we discover.
Back at the ferry landing, a small crowd has gathered. A small boat appears, and takes us across the Kyle in two groups – apparently ferry times are ruled by the tides, because big sandbars are reducing the navigability of the Kyle. Once we are all gathered on the Cape side of the water, the driver fills the minibus with fuel he ferries over. We take our seats and head off along the rough-paved track, past seals resting on a sandbar. Our driver is a very engaging guide, with lots of tales to tell as we wend our way across the hills and valleys. We learn that one reason Cape Wrath is unpopulated, apart from its isolation, is that it is the only live bombing range in Europe (which explains the occasional NATO jet we see streaking low over the hills.) We pass a Ministry of Defense post where the woman watching the gate tells us – No more jets till after 1. Hmm, I think – we won’t be back by then. But I have faith that no tourists have been lost to the bombing range…
We drive through an empty landscape that reminds us both of Denali, the same kind of stark scenery (without snow or grizzlies, just sheep and herds of red deer). No tundra or glacial streams: these bare hills are heather covered, and threaded with streams of clear brown water running from the peat banks. It’s very quiet except for the sound of seabirds and the wind. After a 40-minute drive to the lighthouse at the point, we get off the bus. The driver promises to be back in an hour and half (time for one round trip), and vanishes back down the road. There’s plenty of time to look around the old lighthouse, take in the spectacular views, wander the paths, and gaze from the shelter of the huge red foghorn’s wall -- hundreds of feet down to the blue ocean breaking below. We are also really surprised to see a huge cruise ship sailing by, just outside the bombing range limit…
The bus driver returns on schedule, drops off another load of passengers, and we all pile in as it starts to rain.
Back in Durness, we head over to explore the Balnakiel Craft Center where we discover “The world’s best hot chocolate and truffles” – really good, and very, very rich. But hey, it’s not every day you can have that for lunch… It’s raining harder now, so we head back to Mackays and rest up for another wonderful dinner.
And after dinner, just to complete the highland day, we sample some of Mackay’s collection of single malts. I decide I prefer them not too smoky/peaty, and enjoy the Highland Park recommended by Fiona. A great day, all round.
One motive for our trip to Scotland was to explore Mr SB’s Scottish roots. We set off expectantly with only the flimsiest of background information. As you will see, we learned that we should have done a lot of ground work before we went – but more on that later.
We believed that the Bayne name means that DH is part of Clan Mackay, and the Mackays were in Sutherland – hence our desire to go to the far north-west. And who would not want to see a place with a name like Cape Wrath? (Well, maybe I can think of one or two people, but no matter.)
We were pre-armed with a good GB road atlas (bought on an earlier visit), and suggested driving directions/ times from the AA route planner website <http://www.theaa.com/> (that’s Automobile Association, not Alchoholics Anonymous!)
As faithful readers know from Part One of my post, we took the overnight train from London to Inverness then rented a car and started our road trip. (Stay LEFT, stay LEFT!). We quickly made our way out of Inverness to Lairg, where we stopped for break. We were too late for breakfast and too early for lunch, but the very kind manager of the only hotel in town offered to make us bacon sarnies to go with our coffee. Perfect!
Thus fortified, we set off for our first experience of driving highland single track roads. We are used to single track roads from our many visits to Dorset and the West Country, but found the Scottish version much easier to deal with (no hedges or stone walls). The passing places are clearly marked so you can see where they are as you approach. Because you can usually see far ahead, you know when someone is coming and can size up who should wait in a passing place. The etiquette is that whoever can do it easiest pulls into the passing place (or waits opposite) and does a quick signal or headlight flash to let the approaching vehicle know you are waiting. As they pass, you both do a little wave of thanks, and go on your way. It is also polite to pull over and let faster drivers pass -- they may be locals who can’t be lagging behind us amateurs. Although the roads are single track, all the ones we encountered were well paved. Only caveat is to watch out for drop-offs or ditches if you pull over too far. (This means the navigator spends some time in body English so as not to fall off the edge of the road!) The plus is, traffic volume is much lighter than we were used to, so I had time to ease gently into the single-track mode, and started enjoying it. It was a nice day – cool, some sun, some clouds.
We wanted to learn more about the Clearances, so followed the <b>Strathnaver Trail</b> (apparently created recently, using funds from the lottery.) The trail, which ends at the Strathnaver Museum in Bettyhill on the north coast, is well posted with stopping places and signs to tell you what had happened at various points. Scenery is empty green heather-covered hills, small lochs, some stands of fir trees, very few people. We saw just a few cars, and lots of sheep. We take a pleasant cream-tea break at Elizabeth’s Café, (listed in Scotland the Best) where we learn we are now in Mackay country. Then time for the museum: we walk along a path through a field and cemetery to the museum, housed in an old church. We are warmly greeted by the curator, who really loves visitors (and is passionate about his subject). The sad history of the Clearances, from both sides, is told on posters that were hand-lettered by children from the village school. We browse the small exhibits then head upstairs to the Clan Mackay room. Mr SB is thrilled to be there (especially when the art teacher points out an old photo of a Mackay clansman in full highland rig, who happens to looks a lot like my DH!)
Then we head west along the north coast, a mix of single track and two-lane roads, around Loch Tongue and Loch Eriboll (known as Loch ‘Orrible to WWII serviceman who waited there for winter convoys to form up before shipping out.) Doesn’t look ‘orrible to us: water is blue under a blue-grey sky, and it is palpably quiet. We easily find Mackay’s right on the corner in Durness, where the road turns south. We settle in and enjoy a warm welcome and a great meal.
Next day is the long-awaited trip to <b>Cape Wrath</b>. Fiona tells us that the first ferry leaves at 9:30, so we set up for the adventure with a hearty breakfast then head over to the ferry pier on the Kyle of Durness, about 2 miles away. There’s no-one there, and no boats –just a sign that says the first trip that day will be at 11... We walk briefly down the trail along the Kyle, and have our first encounter with MIDGES. We had forgotten about them, and about the fact that this is perfect weather for them: cloudy, dampish, little wind. We retreat to the hotel to regroup and get better prepared – that means covering exposed skin with Ultrathon, our DEET cream from an Africa trip. Works like a charm, we discover.
Back at the ferry landing, a small crowd has gathered. A small boat appears, and takes us across the Kyle in two groups – apparently ferry times are ruled by the tides, because big sandbars are reducing the navigability of the Kyle. Once we are all gathered on the Cape side of the water, the driver fills the minibus with fuel he ferries over. We take our seats and head off along the rough-paved track, past seals resting on a sandbar. Our driver is a very engaging guide, with lots of tales to tell as we wend our way across the hills and valleys. We learn that one reason Cape Wrath is unpopulated, apart from its isolation, is that it is the only live bombing range in Europe (which explains the occasional NATO jet we see streaking low over the hills.) We pass a Ministry of Defense post where the woman watching the gate tells us – No more jets till after 1. Hmm, I think – we won’t be back by then. But I have faith that no tourists have been lost to the bombing range…
We drive through an empty landscape that reminds us both of Denali, the same kind of stark scenery (without snow or grizzlies, just sheep and herds of red deer). No tundra or glacial streams: these bare hills are heather covered, and threaded with streams of clear brown water running from the peat banks. It’s very quiet except for the sound of seabirds and the wind. After a 40-minute drive to the lighthouse at the point, we get off the bus. The driver promises to be back in an hour and half (time for one round trip), and vanishes back down the road. There’s plenty of time to look around the old lighthouse, take in the spectacular views, wander the paths, and gaze from the shelter of the huge red foghorn’s wall -- hundreds of feet down to the blue ocean breaking below. We are also really surprised to see a huge cruise ship sailing by, just outside the bombing range limit…
The bus driver returns on schedule, drops off another load of passengers, and we all pile in as it starts to rain.
Back in Durness, we head over to explore the Balnakiel Craft Center where we discover “The world’s best hot chocolate and truffles” – really good, and very, very rich. But hey, it’s not every day you can have that for lunch… It’s raining harder now, so we head back to Mackays and rest up for another wonderful dinner.
And after dinner, just to complete the highland day, we sample some of Mackay’s collection of single malts. I decide I prefer them not too smoky/peaty, and enjoy the Highland Park recommended by Fiona. A great day, all round.
Sep 28th, 2006, 02:31 PM
#12
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 689
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great idea, auldyins. I know we'll be in the Highlands again, and we hope for longer, next time. There was so much we wanted to see on this trip that we could only stay two nights in each place: that's just not long enough!
Oct 3rd, 2006, 03:58 AM
#16
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,282
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great report and very thoughtfully organised. So glad you enjoyed yourselves. You have made me want to visit some of these places myself !
I hadn't heard of 2 Cambridge Street before I saw your earlier mentions of it - it sounds lovely, what a find ! Great location.
Just a bit curious about one comment : "The meal was nice, not stellar – and it took 2 ½ hours from start to end! After dinner, we chatted in the lounge with our fellow guests, who were similarly surprised about the dinner service." Do you mean you think 2.5 hours is a long time, for 5 courses ?! Each to his own, but I'd be very disappointed if it took any less than that. Maybe it's just me, but the thing I hate the most about going out for a meal is being rushed through it.
Anyway, haste ye back !
I hadn't heard of 2 Cambridge Street before I saw your earlier mentions of it - it sounds lovely, what a find ! Great location.
Just a bit curious about one comment : "The meal was nice, not stellar – and it took 2 ½ hours from start to end! After dinner, we chatted in the lounge with our fellow guests, who were similarly surprised about the dinner service." Do you mean you think 2.5 hours is a long time, for 5 courses ?! Each to his own, but I'd be very disappointed if it took any less than that. Maybe it's just me, but the thing I hate the most about going out for a meal is being rushed through it.
Anyway, haste ye back !
Oct 3rd, 2006, 09:41 AM
#17
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,472
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm really enjoying your report, SB. It's really not all that long; you provide a lot of useful detail about areas that aren't that often covered by visitors. I will be saving this one for future reference.
Oct 3rd, 2006, 09:42 AM
#18
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 689
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Caroline -- just want to explain my comment about dinner service taking a long time: problem was that between each course there was a LONG wait, the kind that makes you wonder what happened, with no sign of the servers. (And oops, when I went back to check my journal, it was four courses, not five).
We had an appetizer course, a small demitasse of very good soup, an entree, and dessert. I agree, in some circumstances, that time would not be long at all -- but you do want to feel that the servers are hanging in there with you, and not popped off somewhere to take care of something else. Or have a cigarette (I'm making some wild assumptions here...) ;-)
The Cloustons, who own 2 Cambridge, used to own a B&B at 41 Heriot Row. I had it bookmarked earlier in the research phase of planning, and the "About Scotland" website helpfully redirected me to their new location.
While you are here, many thanks for all the great info you post on the forum. It really helped us to plan our time in Edinburgh (and also to realize that we would have to go back for a longer visit!)
We had an appetizer course, a small demitasse of very good soup, an entree, and dessert. I agree, in some circumstances, that time would not be long at all -- but you do want to feel that the servers are hanging in there with you, and not popped off somewhere to take care of something else. Or have a cigarette (I'm making some wild assumptions here...) ;-)
The Cloustons, who own 2 Cambridge, used to own a B&B at 41 Heriot Row. I had it bookmarked earlier in the research phase of planning, and the "About Scotland" website helpfully redirected me to their new location.
While you are here, many thanks for all the great info you post on the forum. It really helped us to plan our time in Edinburgh (and also to realize that we would have to go back for a longer visit!)
Oct 3rd, 2006, 03:44 PM
#19
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 689
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
<b>Next up: Turning Left and Heading South</b>
Next day, after another yummy highland breakfast, it is time to pack and get back on the road. The weather is brightening, so we decide to take a look at Sango Beach (there are unbelievable pictures of it everywhere...)
It’s just a short way east to the Tourist Info office, where you can park and walk down a wooden stair to the beach. As we pull into the parking area, the sun comes out – accompanied by a rainbow over the Cape Wrath cliffs. To our delight, the pictures we had seen were completely accurate. It is a lovely stretch of fine pink sand, dotted with huge rocks like a mini-Oregon beach. The water reflects the sky in shades of blue and turquoise, and dramatic white surf crashes among the rocks. It is a scene far more like Bermuda than anything we expect to see at the latitude of Hudson’s Bay: a wonderful moment of travel serendipity. (I guess the only reason the beach is empty is that when weather permits, I’m sure the midges love it too.)
We sadly don’t have time to visit the Smoo Caves (next time!). We aren’t sure how long the day’s drive will take, but the AA route suggests almost five hours for the 120 miles… Back in the car, we head south towards Ullapool. It’s another leisurely day of wonderful scenery, mostly single track roads (which we are now getting used to): moors, heather, lochs, lots of sheep, and very little traffic. Past Ullapool, the road is more major (i.e. two lanes). We stop in Elphin for a snack, then decide to take a small detour around the Achilitbuiie peninsula. Not our best idea ever: it’s a very narrow, very slow road, mostly single track, and seems to have more traffic than we had seen the last few days. But we were inspired by our breakfast kippers from the Achilitbuie Smokehouse, and want to see it for ourselves.
When we eventually get to the smokehouse, we learn that they don’t ship to the US <sigh>. But it is a beautiful spot: we drive past notable peaks with names like Stac Polly, and look out to the Summer Isles as the weather starts to deteriorate. We head back (no other way to go) followed by low clouds and rain that obscure the scenery. We have a dinner date at our B&B, and don’t want to arrive too late, so we hurry as much as we can, past scenic Loch Broom.
Penny and Ian, our B&B hosts, had suggested we bring wine if we wanted some with dinner, so we stop in Badcaul (thought of our umpire friend!) and bought a very nice bottle of Cote du Rhone in the general store. We find the turning off the main road in Laide, thanks to good driving instructions from Ian. The B&B, Na Fir Chlis (pronounced Naffer-kleesh, means Northern Lights) is a real find. It’s quiet, set amongst a few houses on a short lane, and near the lovely beach at Gruinard Bay. (For more on that, see my first post above.) We enjoy a very good dinner made by Penny, with Ian’s home-grown veggies, then chat with our hosts (we are the only guests) and enjoy a quiet evening. It’s time to catch up on the journal!
<b>Inverewe Gardens</b>
When I heard about Inverewe Gardens <http://www.nts.org.uk/web/site/home/...NavId=5122>, where palm trees and exotic plants from around the world flourish thanks to the Gulf Stream, I knew I had to see it for myself. Not least because we had done a lot of landscaping (on a different scale!) in our own garden this year.
It is just a short drive from our B&B, and judging from the tour buses in the parking lot it is very popular, with visitors from all over. Now owned and managed by the National Trust of Scotland, it’s well organized with plenty of parking space, a pleasant café, and of course, a visitor centre, gift shop and bookshop. The garden was created by Osgood Mackenzie in 1862, from a very unpromising piece of land that had only a wonderful view of Loch Ewe to recommend it. It seems that although he was a visionary gardener, he did not have the same empathy for the wildlife of the area -- he apparently shot anything that moved.
We start with a snack in the café (always a good principal!) and sample our first Clootie dumplings, which remind us a lot of Christmas pudding. Very yummy with custard! The free guided tour starts at 1:30, so we join the small group waiting in the assigned spot overlooking the loch. Our guide arrives, and begins with a midge warning: it is perfect weather for them, mild and overcast, no wind. Our guide is armed with Avon’s Skin So Soft which she offers to anyone who came unprepared. Not us – we have our trusty Ultrathon at the ready. (And I noticed that the SSS folks are constantly reapplying: those little midges were hungry!) The tour lasts about 90 minutes, covering maybe half of what there is to see. We walk a lot, up and down hills on paved paths, but it is well worth the effort. We take tons of pictures, and jot down names of favorite plants (the labeling is very good). We finish up in the walled kitchen garden, where we spot some of the gardeners in full midge gear – net clothing including head nets!
Then we head back “home” to Na Fir Chlis by way of Gairloch, and take a pleasant walk on the sandy beach at Gruinard Bay as the sky clears. We’re glad to have some time to chill out with tea and books, then a good dinner and chat with our hosts. Another great day.
Next day, after another yummy highland breakfast, it is time to pack and get back on the road. The weather is brightening, so we decide to take a look at Sango Beach (there are unbelievable pictures of it everywhere...)
It’s just a short way east to the Tourist Info office, where you can park and walk down a wooden stair to the beach. As we pull into the parking area, the sun comes out – accompanied by a rainbow over the Cape Wrath cliffs. To our delight, the pictures we had seen were completely accurate. It is a lovely stretch of fine pink sand, dotted with huge rocks like a mini-Oregon beach. The water reflects the sky in shades of blue and turquoise, and dramatic white surf crashes among the rocks. It is a scene far more like Bermuda than anything we expect to see at the latitude of Hudson’s Bay: a wonderful moment of travel serendipity. (I guess the only reason the beach is empty is that when weather permits, I’m sure the midges love it too.)
We sadly don’t have time to visit the Smoo Caves (next time!). We aren’t sure how long the day’s drive will take, but the AA route suggests almost five hours for the 120 miles… Back in the car, we head south towards Ullapool. It’s another leisurely day of wonderful scenery, mostly single track roads (which we are now getting used to): moors, heather, lochs, lots of sheep, and very little traffic. Past Ullapool, the road is more major (i.e. two lanes). We stop in Elphin for a snack, then decide to take a small detour around the Achilitbuiie peninsula. Not our best idea ever: it’s a very narrow, very slow road, mostly single track, and seems to have more traffic than we had seen the last few days. But we were inspired by our breakfast kippers from the Achilitbuie Smokehouse, and want to see it for ourselves.
When we eventually get to the smokehouse, we learn that they don’t ship to the US <sigh>. But it is a beautiful spot: we drive past notable peaks with names like Stac Polly, and look out to the Summer Isles as the weather starts to deteriorate. We head back (no other way to go) followed by low clouds and rain that obscure the scenery. We have a dinner date at our B&B, and don’t want to arrive too late, so we hurry as much as we can, past scenic Loch Broom.
Penny and Ian, our B&B hosts, had suggested we bring wine if we wanted some with dinner, so we stop in Badcaul (thought of our umpire friend!) and bought a very nice bottle of Cote du Rhone in the general store. We find the turning off the main road in Laide, thanks to good driving instructions from Ian. The B&B, Na Fir Chlis (pronounced Naffer-kleesh, means Northern Lights) is a real find. It’s quiet, set amongst a few houses on a short lane, and near the lovely beach at Gruinard Bay. (For more on that, see my first post above.) We enjoy a very good dinner made by Penny, with Ian’s home-grown veggies, then chat with our hosts (we are the only guests) and enjoy a quiet evening. It’s time to catch up on the journal!
<b>Inverewe Gardens</b>
When I heard about Inverewe Gardens <http://www.nts.org.uk/web/site/home/...NavId=5122>, where palm trees and exotic plants from around the world flourish thanks to the Gulf Stream, I knew I had to see it for myself. Not least because we had done a lot of landscaping (on a different scale!) in our own garden this year.
It is just a short drive from our B&B, and judging from the tour buses in the parking lot it is very popular, with visitors from all over. Now owned and managed by the National Trust of Scotland, it’s well organized with plenty of parking space, a pleasant café, and of course, a visitor centre, gift shop and bookshop. The garden was created by Osgood Mackenzie in 1862, from a very unpromising piece of land that had only a wonderful view of Loch Ewe to recommend it. It seems that although he was a visionary gardener, he did not have the same empathy for the wildlife of the area -- he apparently shot anything that moved.
We start with a snack in the café (always a good principal!) and sample our first Clootie dumplings, which remind us a lot of Christmas pudding. Very yummy with custard! The free guided tour starts at 1:30, so we join the small group waiting in the assigned spot overlooking the loch. Our guide arrives, and begins with a midge warning: it is perfect weather for them, mild and overcast, no wind. Our guide is armed with Avon’s Skin So Soft which she offers to anyone who came unprepared. Not us – we have our trusty Ultrathon at the ready. (And I noticed that the SSS folks are constantly reapplying: those little midges were hungry!) The tour lasts about 90 minutes, covering maybe half of what there is to see. We walk a lot, up and down hills on paved paths, but it is well worth the effort. We take tons of pictures, and jot down names of favorite plants (the labeling is very good). We finish up in the walled kitchen garden, where we spot some of the gardeners in full midge gear – net clothing including head nets!
Then we head back “home” to Na Fir Chlis by way of Gairloch, and take a pleasant walk on the sandy beach at Gruinard Bay as the sky clears. We’re glad to have some time to chill out with tea and books, then a good dinner and chat with our hosts. Another great day.
