ekscrunchy- just a joke. Your descriptions were so vivid,they are worthy of an adventure movie. Erroll Flynn screwed so many women in his brief (but probably happy) time on earth, that your friend has a good chance of being one of Erroll's offspring.

bookmarking

Whoa... I sure know how to kill a thread, don't I? ;)

I just want to make note of two wonderful books about food in Campania:

Carla Capalbo's "Food and Wine Guide to Naples and Campania," kindly lent to me by KYbourbon and sadly out-of-print is an excellent resource for anyone planning a trip to the region.

Arthur Schwartz's "Naples at Table," contains recipes from the various areas of Campania, but also offers valuable background information on the foods of the region as well as historical notes. Schwartz tells us, for example, that mozzarella is made only with buffalo milk; if the cheese is made from cow's milk it is referred to as Fior di Latte. Provola refers to aged mozzarella but is often made with cow's milk since buffalo milk is more expensive. He also tells us how buffalo reportedly arrived in Campania with the Lombards in the 7th or 8th Century when they occupied the region and that they are a cross between Asian and American strains of the animal.

I highly recommend both of these books!

http://www.thefoodmaven.com/naples/index.html

Great report, have taken lots of notes for our forthcoming trip. Now however I am wishing that we booked accommodation in Amalfi, not Postiano in July! Next time!

I was interested in your stop at Pompeii on the way back to Naples, we are considering doing the same on our way from the Naples train station to Positano. It will be early afternoon so I just hope that it is not too hot, although perhaps if that is the case it won't be so busy! Will have to carry lots of water.........perhaps an umbrella for shade too.

Was rather shocked with the quotes from a couple of limo companies - 160 euros to drive the 4 of us from Naples to Positano, and that doesn't include the stop at Pompeii! I was expecting closer to 100. High season I guess??

"It will be early afternoon so I just hope that it is not too hot" - er, that is the hottest time of day. Could you perhaps do it on your way back and get there early ?

gmh66:

160 euro from Naples to Positano is crazy! I paid that amount from Amafli to Naples with a stop in Pompeii. Which companies have you contacted?

I suggest that you make further inquiries online and through your hotel in Naples. And yes, it will probably be hot and crowded in mid-day...I would try to get there at opening time to avoid both the heat and the crowds. Or perhaps arriving late in the day would help you avoid the bulk of the crowd, but I am not certain of that. The vast majority of tourists at the site appeared to be on organized tours, so try to work around that timing..

Unfortunately the timing of our trip back to Naples doesn't allow us to stop at Pompeii - we have to get back to Rome to catch a flight home. Caroline, you are right, the early afternoon will be the hottest, but it fits in with our schedule (and we are used to scorching summers here in Australia so I was hoping that we would cope!).
Esk, that is the price I was quoted from 3 sources - by my hotel in Positano and 2 other limo companies that I contacted directly. Perhaps it is because there are 4 of us with 4 cases and we need a bigger car.
Perhaps will just do the straight transfer then do another morning in Pompeii with a cheaper driver that we can arrange there. Thanks

GMH: If you want to scout for a cheaper price, why not contact the driver I used for my trip to Paestum; his name and contact info are in the report above. He has a van that would fit 4 with luggage, easily.

Will do

Here are the driver's details; we liked him very much.


[email protected]

Telephone (he lives on the Amalfi Coast, in Minori)

339-391-7300

Hi Eskrunchy,

I ended up booking with Renato Cuomo from your report. He is charging a much more reasonable 150 Euro for the transfer from Naples to Positano and a 2 1/2 hour stop off at Pompei. Thanks v much.

Hi EK,
Your report brought back so many happy memories from when I lived in Naples. We would drive down to Amalfi and have lunch at A Cucina e Maria right by the Duomo in Amalfi where Fausto manned the tables and his wife the kitchen.

Remembering the lemons I bought on the road from Sorrento, I smuggled them back and made the best Limoncello in NYC.

Castellanese,
Naple has a very undeserved reputation and a bum rap in my opinion. It is a wonderful city,to be in. So much to see explore and experience.

Before you go to Pompeii make sure that you visit the Archeological museum, after that visit you will look at Pompeii quite differently I think.

The easiest way to get there is to take the commuter train and get off at the station marked Pompeii Scavi.

If you are going to Caserta make sure that you get the express bus.

Capri makes for a nice visit,especially if you get to swim in the Blue Grotto, which opens up around 5 when the tour boats leave.

However Procida is much less visited and worth considering. This is the island where Il Postino was filmed.

There are day boats going to the islands.

Arthur Schwartz gives cooking classes in Seliano, Campania you can look up his schedule at http://www.thefoodmaven.com.

To all of you going to Naples and costiera amalfi
enjoy your trip you are in for a treat.

Nywoman, did you go to Ponza ? We are leaving on Saturday for this year's hol which includes our 3rd stay in Ischia. We've visited Procida before, from Ischia, but was wondering about Ponza this time as I noticed it on a timetable of hydrofoils from Ischia. Mind you if it's like last year, we won't get any further than the beach in Sant'Angelo ! Thanks.

GMH: I am glad you got the Pompeii trip settled. I think you got a good price, considering that the transfer from the airport to Amalfi cost us 100 Euro.

NYwoman: I am glad you enjoyed the report. I used to like listening to Arthur on the radio and even toyed with the idea (for about a minute) of taking that class at Seliano. Honestly, is there another region of the world that better encapsulates, for the tourist, the idea of "dolce far niente?" Campania really has it all, from a tourist standpoint.

ekscrunchy - I found another copy of The Food and Wine Lover's Guide to Campania at HalfPrice Books in Cincinnati, so keep the one you have.

Kybourbon: Mille grazie! That is so kind of you and I appreciate it very much. I promise to put it to good use in the future, when I hope to return to Campania. Thank you, thank you, thank you!

You're welcome. Do you have a Sicily trip report?

KyB: I don't have a report from Sicily. My last trip to the island was about 2005 which would be just around the time I discovered Fodors! But I will be more than happy to offer any help or advice. We spent one week, beginning in Palermo and overnighting there, and in Agrigento, Siracusa and Taormina before flying home from Catania. We rented a car and the driving was surprisingly easy.

Palermo: Hotel Joli
Agrigento: Colleverde Park Hotel
Siracusa: Hotel Domus Mariae (favorite of the trip)
Taormina: Villa Belvedere (many hotels have 3-night minimums in Taormina)

I will also give you some eating ideas once you have your places lined up..

Many thanks, again, for the book.

I meant to say we spent 2 nights in Palermo, 1 in Agrigento, and 2 each in Siracusa and Taormina. Just enough time to get a quick glimpse of some of the highlights..

topping for Italy Traveler

ttt

thanks for topping!

I've been offline a bit and somehow missed it!!

was wondering how the trip went!

see...told ya you would eat well in Cetara ;-) feel like my little secret is out now!

Can you tell me about how much you tip your driver? I have a drive from airport to hotel in Naples. then Naples to Sorrento. We did not pay for this so I have not idea what this would actually cost.(We won a trip -yeah and the driver is included) So I want to at lest tip the driver. is that appropriate?

So glad I happened upon your report, ekscrunchy - it's excellent and full of delicious info. Hope to be using a lot of it before too long. Thanks.

ekscrunchy - grazie mille for your incredible, edible trip report. I am now thouroughly confused as to where we should stay on our trip next Sept/Oct. I have been thinking Positano and investigating places, etc. My son (18-and sheesh why did he get to go before me!)was just there and liked La Tavolozza. But we are two couples (50ish), good shape, love people, food, and wine and you have tempted my soul. Is Positano all steps to get anywhere? Isn't Amalfi a hillside town too? We want an experience that will give us the local fishing village, wonderful people, great food, relaxation, and also venturing out to Pompeii and Ravello to see ruins, gardens and whatever else may strike our fancy. HELP! :)

Missed this one, eks. Have no plans for Amalfi (went once briefly and wasn't enthralled) but your charming report is giving me second thoughts.

Thanks for an enjoyable read.

Glad that you all enjoyed this report. I have away from a computer for a week or so..

Gale: Positano is virtually "all steps." Although there are steps in Amalfi, these lead away from the main part of the town and into the hills. Much of the center of town is located on a gentle slope and it is not necessary to navigate steps in this central area, containing most of the shops and restaurants. There are also many eating places on the seafront; most of these are located down a short flight of steps leading from the main road.

I found Amalfi much more appealing than Positano, as it seemed to me to be more of a real town, as opposed to a town that virtually exists to serve the tourist industry.

Feel free to ask any and all questions!

wonderful report, ekscrunchy!

I have 5-6 days planned for Italy in late October (actually 10/28-11/4) and I've been debating about Venice/Bologna and the Amalfi Coast.

We will be in Rome from 11/4-11/8, then Paris until 11/18.

We've not been to the AC area, but do you think it will be dreary at that time of year? Restaurants open? I've seen mixed answers on this.

Thanks!

Wish I'd previewed before hitting the button.

To clarify, I'm debating BETWEEN Venice/Bologna and the AC, not trying to do both.

Thanks!

ekscrunchy - Thank you so much for replying. Amalfi sounds so much more quaint than Positano does. Do you happen to know if Hotel Fiori Diana had any two bedroom suites?

Gale I am not sure about the existence of 2-bedroom suites at the hotel. They do list a junior suite on their price list, though. The superior room that we rented was quite large, and so was the bathroom, if that helps. You might ask for two adjacent rooms..

I am certain that if you write to Agnese, the lovely owner, she will respond quickly. She speaks excellent English, too.

Here is their website (so you do not have to scroll up to find it here):

http://www.hotelfloridiana.it/english/hotel.html

eks - I just received Carla's Food and Wine Lover's Companion to Tuscany (published 1998 and updated 2002) and it's 400 pages. I haven't started reading it yet, but I don't think it will be as good as the Campania book. It doesn't have any pictures, but is divided into regions and towns like the Campania book. She does go into details such as explaining the three different types of yeast used for Tuscan bread and why they need a low acid starter. $8.98 from Powell Books (I ordered through Amazon).

MelJ, at that time of year I'd gp for Venice/Bologna. There may well be good weather on the Amalfi Coast but there may not - if it's dull & rainy that would defeat the point of going there, IMO.

I agree with Caroline. There will certainly be restaurants open in and around Amalfi in late October, but I agree that Venice/Bologna might be the safer choice, weather-wise.

Ky: Thanks for the tip on the book and thank you, again, for the Capalbo Naples book!

Thanks for confirming what I thought I should probably do--go to Venice and Bologna and save the AC for a lovelier time of year.

Thanks very much!

UPDATE: For those with a love of the food of Italy, and all things Italian, a wonderful book (I just finished reading) is "Eating Up Italy," which recounts the author's ramble north from Calabria, via Naples, Molise, Abruzzo, and Romagna, to Piemonte on a Vespa. The focus, of course, is food. Good sense of humor, great insights into the role that food plays in Italian life. Highly recommended!

Hi eks. This is the Matthew Fort book, isn't it ? He's well known here as the Guardian newpaper's food editor and I have the book waiting on my bedside pile ! He also has another similar book just about Sicily, "Sweet Honey, Bitter Lemons".

Caroline: Yes!! I did not have the book with me when I wrote that yesterday. I truly enjoyed the book..he travels through areas that I know little about but have now put on my list..Ascoli Piceno is just one town of many that caught my interest....

I will look for his Sicily book and also see if I can read him at the Guardian site...thanks for that tip!

Ooh, I'll move it to the top of the pile then ! Thanks for the recommendation. Just finishing Alexander McCall Smith's latest '44 Scotland Street' book to appear in p/b.