CJA: Yes, I would stop in Cetara if your main interest is in eating great food and seeing a non-touristy fishing village. You will be able to see Ravello by bus once you are settled in Positano (you can see Cetara that way, too, of course, but it is further away). If you are taking the highway past Naples, you should get off at the Vietri exit (double check this) ; Cetara is very close to this. After lunch you can continue west along the Amalfi Drive itself.

You have a treat in store in Montepulciano. The hotel is nice but what made our stay truly unforgettable is the owner, Roberto. Please say hello to him, if you remember, from the couple from New York who visited Avignonesi in January. And tell him that he looks like the tennis player, Yannick Noah; he loves tennis, too!! A real character and exceedingly congenial and helpful. It sounds like a fantastic trip!!


Scarlett: Yes, you MUST go to Italy! After all, you cannot exist on steak alone, even if it is THAT great!!

Squeaky: Thanks. I was surprised to read that ABC used that hotel; I would have guessed that the guests were mostly Italian. Your account of the hotel really convinced us to put it on the list for the future.


..continued...



We began our brief, late afternoon visit to Spaccanapoli with a visit to the Church of Gesu Nuovo. The diamond point façade that hints of its past as part of the Sanseverino family’s 15th Century palace:


http://www.terragalleria.com/europe/....ital7420.html



encloses a Baroque masterwork known for its colored marble and frescoes. If you visit, make sure to see the chapel that contains the plaques dedicated to physician and Saint Giuseppe Moscati. These framed silver-colored ex votos give testimony to the healing powers of Moscati with hearts, legs, feet, and other body parts he is said to have healed.

Here is a site detailing some of the miracles this beloved saint is said to have accomplished:

http://www.moscati.com/English/En_Grazie5.html

And here are a few photos of the Gesu Nuovo:


http://www.gesuiti.it/moscati/Italiano/It_chiesaGN.html

From the Gesu Nuovo, we walked the short distance to the Capella Sanseverino. Our walk took us past the famous Scaturchio Pasticceria and it was only with tremendous fortitude that we were able to forego stopping for their world-famous sfogliatelle:


http://www.scaturchio.it/homepage.html


The Capella Sansevero is the funerary chapel of the Di Sangro family and is adorned with the works of several world-renowned sculptors commissioned by the eccentric price of the family in the 18th Century, the most famous of which is Sammartino’s “Christo Velato,” with a transparent veil draping the reclining figure of the dead Christ.

Perhaps even more astounding is the artistry of the the figure to the right of the altar, “Il Disinganno, “ or “Dillusionment” by Franceso Queirolo. My partner had trouble believing that the fishing net (see photo below) was actually carved of marble, a difficulty shared by many other visitors, according to the guide in the chapel. Don’t forget to look up at the spectacular carved and gilded ceiling, and to visit the somewhat creepy anatomical figures displaying the human cardiovascular system in the basement.



http://www.napoliontheroad.it/Immagini/disinganno.jpg




By now it was time to make our way back to the hotel, but first, we stopped at a friggitoria, one of the sidewalk stalls dotting the historic center and offering a variety of Sfizzi Fritti, the fried snacks for which Naples is so beloved by food-centric visitors…..more soon..

Naples famous fried snacks take many forms, including fried fish, fried dough (zeppole and panzarotti, to name two versions), fried vegetables, fried potatoes, and myriad others. We had time only to taste a few of these. I cannot think of a better, and less expensive, gastronomic treat than the gloriously salty but not greasy 20-cent arancini piccoli that we sampled that afternoon. Arancini are fried rice balls usually stuffed with either meat, meat and peas, or cheese. These were stuffed with cheese and were sublime, as was my fiore di zucca, fried zucchini flower. Essential on any visit to Naples! And if you are on a budget, I cannot think of a better city in which to eat than Naples, with its premier pizza and world of street snacks.


Before we left the US I had reserved a table for dinner via e-mail at the Restaurant Umberto, a few steps from the hotel on Via Alabardieri. Umberto is a well-known local place with a cool modern interior and 1950s photos on the tomato red walls. That Friday night it was packed with locals and a few tourists; there was a birthday party for a small boy in the side room, who were dining on appetizers and Umberto’s pizzas, which receive high marks in local food critics. This is an example of their Menu della Settimana, which changes weekly, with prices:

http://www.umberto.it/?center=menu&ID=4


And, to give an idea, here is their pizza menu, with prices:

http://www.umberto.it/?center=menu&ID=3


We began our dinner with a platter of tiny meatballs in a tomato sauce..superb..and a platter of fried zucchin flowers (I could not get enough of these and they, too, were superb!)

For my main course I had burrida di seppie, squid with artichokes, Seppie con Carciofi, lightly stewed. Very good.

My partner had his first pizza in Naples, a margherita. The reports of its greatness are not exaggerated!

And finally, my quest for Asprinio de Aversa wine was fulfilled with a frizzante version of this wine from I Borboni: Umberto’s list also offers the wine in a spumante version. I loved it! (Notice the characteristic string which ties the cork)



http://www.iborboni.com/it/index_it.html

The bill totaled 43 euro, quite a good value.

Oh, I could have tears now !
Umberto, oh my God at Vico Alabardieri, very close to Piazza dei Martiri, the most elegant square of Naples.
How many and many pizza I ate at Umberto when I was very young and studied at Naples University.
I will never forget and I want to thank you that were able to refresh in a very sweet way my memory.

Vincenzo

Vicenzo, I am glad if I was able to bring you a sweet memory, if only for a moment!

I had to finish quickly yesterday and just wanted to say that Umberto was an excellent restaurant. After dinner we walked west along Via Alabardieri; there is a lot of nightlife in that area--many small bars and restaurants that were overflowing with young people, so much so that it was difficult to walk along the smaller streets because they were so crowded with people! It is a lovely neighborhood and not for one minute did I feel nervous about walking around, even at night. Naples surely does not deserve its dicey reputation, based on my own, albeit brief, experiences!

I will return later with our last day in Naples, which includes a sampling of one of the city's most legendary pizzas.

I just looked at my photos from the Caseficio near Paestum and wanted to add here that they offer 26 types of cheeses, ranging from 8.50 to 13.50 Euro per kilo, along with a scamorza with soppressata (salami) for 18 Euro per kilo.

Burrata is, indeed, on the list, and they offer three types of butter as well!

More fantastic stuff, eks - now I have to go back to Naples too to try the food places you visited ! I thought seppie was cuttlefish, though ?

Sigh, only 32 days until our hol, though !

Glad to hear you weren't aware of stray dogs at Pompeii.

Caroline you are correct..I usually confuse squid and cuttlefish, both in Italy and in Spain, where they are both also popular. I can't discern too much difference in taste between the two.. Thanks for the correction.

I just loaded my photos onto my computer and when I look at them, the entire week feels like a dream. This certainly will not be our last time in the region!

I will finish up very soon...

I forgot to add these notes earlier in the report:



I will make a note here about two new hotel properties in the area: Work continues on the Cappuchini Convento in Amalfi and locals told us that they will be open by next summer. And, in Conca de Marini, the Convento di Santa Rosa, which dates from the 15th Century and must offer some of the most astounding views on a coast filled with astounding views, has apparently (this from Sr. Cuomo) been purchased by an heiress from North Carolina and is slated to be transformed into a hotel.

Bookmarking

We were up early the next morning, Saturday, ready to begin our last full day in Naples. A buffet breakfast is included in the room price of the Palazzo Alabardieri and consists of excellent pastries—croissants, pan au chocolat, and even sfogliatelle—along with heavier items including bacon and eggs. I should mention that the hotel provides guests with a free reprint of the Naples section from the DK Eyewitness guidebook.

After breakfast, armed with the Streetwise Map of Naples, we headed for the grid of shadowy streets called the Tavoliere, or chessboard, to the west of Via Toledo in the Quartiere Spagnoli, or Spanish Quarter. Lined with tall, narrow tenement-type buildings often strung with laundry and scribbled with graffiti, this is the quintessential Naples of legend and postwar film. Our goal was Via Pignasecca and its cross streets, which throb with activity as one of the city’s oldest markets unfolds each morning beginning about 8am. Food of every description, housewares, cheap clothing, and all manner of bric a brac spill from the open-air stands and the shops lining the narrow streets filled with the clamor of vendors proclaiming the plumpest artichokes or the freshest squid.

From here we found our way back to the Via Toledo and walked north towards Piazza Bellini, the only place in the central city where we saw the overflowing trash bins familiar from so many news accounts.


A walk along the Via Sta Maria di Constantinopoli, lined with book and map sellers, too us to the Hotel Constantinopoli 104, where we had considered staying and which receives excellent reviews. Ensconced behind an unprepossessing façade, the low-rise villa houses lovely, tastefully decorated interior spaces as well as a small pool which looked inviting. The staff here, again, were gracious in allowing us to wander through the public areas. At 220 Euro double, this hotel was 25 Euros more expensive than the Hotel Palazzo Alabardieri and preferred our Chiaia neighborhood. Nevertheless, this hotel enjoys a location that certainly be ideal for a tourist who wanted to concentrate on the sights within Spaccanapoli and the archeological museum.

To Ekscrunchy-I see you spent time with my son and daughter in law in NYC this weekend. Bon chance!

Yes, Waldo! They are a lot of fun and I hope to see them again next time!

Nice trip report, eks. Sounds like you enjoyed the Chiaia neighborhood and especially Ristorante Umberto as much as we did. Naples is an amazing city -- so incredibly vibrant, don't you think? One of my favorites places in Italy so far.

Hazel: Yes, vibrant is the world for Naples! IN the days after we got home, I noticed that midtown Manhattan seemed very quiet and almost deserted in comparison with the crowds and energy we had experienced walking around Naples! Two days really was far too short a time but at least it gave us a taste of the city.

Here is a bit more of the report:



After a walk that took us through the Piazza Dante, we headed back to the Via dei Tribunali and made our way to the 16th-Century church of San Gregorio Armeno, a gilded jewelbox that has been described as “a room of paradise on earth” for the nuns who occupy its adjoining convent. The carved wooden ceiling is nothing short of astonishing!

Outside, the narrow Via San Gregorio Armeno is headquarters for the craftsmen who fashion the intricate figures and accessories that will find homes within the elaborate Christmas nativity scenes, or presepi, that spring up throughout the city during the holiday season. The figures for sale here represent everyone from Luciano Pavarotti to the baby Jesus and assorted angels and saints, with soccer stars and political figures in plentiful supply.

Our next stop was the Monte de Pieta, open only on the weekends (during the week the lavish Baroque interiors house the offices of the San Paolo Banco di Napoli).

Our next stop was the Monte de Pieta, open only on the weekends (during the week the lavish Baroque interiors house the offices of the San Paolo Banco di Napoli). Admission is free. After a walk through the courtyard and ornate galleries filled with decorative arts and ecclesiastical cothing and accessories, we were dove once again into the narrow streets of Spaccanapoli and once again, made our way to the Via dei Tribunali, the former Decumanus Maximus, the major east-west street of the Roman city.


The Via dei Tribunali is home to two of Naples’ legendary addresses: DiMatteo, at #94 and Sorbillo, at #32. These two names show up on every list of Naples best pizzerie. If we had had more time in the city, I am sure we would have visited both but on this day, we had to make a choice and so we headed for Sorbillo. (Their site has photos and a menu):

http://www.pizzeriasorbillo.it/

Happily, there were a few tables free when we arrived shortly after noon. (By 1:15pm on this Saturday, there was a large cluster of people waiting in the street outside) Is the pizza in Naples as good as everyone says? Yes, yes, and yes! My partner, the purist, had the simple Margarita (3.30 Euro) and I had the artichoke-bedecked Elena (4.80 Euro). We drank Cokes with our pizza. Is there a better 12 Euro meal available anywhere in Europe? I seriously doubt it!

After that superlative lunch, we began walking again, this time south along Via Toledo and Via Chiaia, through the Piazza dei Martiri to the water and the Castel dell’ Ovo. The views of Vesuvius from inside, framed by the castle’s thick stone walls, are classic! Wandering along the waterfront promenades, we came across a number of bridal couples posing for photos.

And finally, it was time to return to our hotel to relax a bit before dinnertime. We had planned to dine that last night at Europeo Mattozzi, but eventually decided against this SlowFood restaurant because of its location a long walk from the hotel. (The front desk person told us that the restaurant’s owners had opened a sister establishment close to the hotel, but we had had no reports of this place and I was a bit hesitant.) But that morning on our walk through the Spanish Quarter we had come across Hosteria Toledo, another SlowFood pick and we liked the look of it so much that we had booked a table for 8:30 that evening).

You mentioned the Piazza Dante. One of the best highlights in a Naples visit, I believe, is unknown to everyone but me. There is a McDonald's on Via Toledo, across from Piazza Dante. I know, McDonald's ugh! However, you go into McD and order anything whatsoever. You the go upstairs to the second floor and you will see the wall that faces the Piazza is all glass. You then sit at a table adjoining the large window-wall, and enjoy the fantastic bird's eye view of the liveliness of the Piazza from an incomparable angle. I have maintained my sitting position for hours, watching the story of Naples unfold beneath me. The university is located in the Piazza, so you can also see the young people of Napoli in their element. It's like watching a documentary, but in real time. It's amazing. I don't know if anyone but I have appreciated this adventure.

I'd still rather sit outside a bar in the square itself with a Negroni :-)

Bentornata Eks (- belated, I know) :)

I've been waiting till I had time to savour your report (- just back from holiday too). Great reading! You've bought back so many memories ...

I shall look at Amalfi in a whole new perspective next time (- I've always considered it second-best compared to Positano, I admit).

I've been drooling over some of your meals, too.
Sfogliatelle? I used to breakfast on them every time I was in Naples - fresh out of the oven. Irresistable!

Better start planning my next visit ;)

Steve

I am glad you are all enjoying!

I missed the McDonald's but I did notice a Mexico coffee shop; I remembered reading that they had some of the city's best coffee. But we did not sample on this trip.

SteveJames: Welcome back!

bookmarking

Another walk along our now familiar route took us from the Hotel Palazzo Alabardieri, east on the pedestrian-only Via Chiaia and north on Via Toledo, and then west for about a block on Vico Giardinetti to our destination at #78A at the edge of the Spanish Quarter, Hosteria Toledo. This cozy two-level restaurant was close to empty when we entered, but before an hour had passed the first floor room where we were seated was full and hopeful diners were being turned away to the door or told to return in an hour. The diners were a mix of tourists and locals and the ratio changed to mostly locals as the night progressed.

The hosteria is run by a friendly couple; she waits on tables and he takes orders and supervises. The printed menu, supplemented by daily specials, reads like a greatest hits of Neopolitan classics.

For our last dinner of the week, we had:

Salad of mozzarella red peppers and tomatoes

Buccatini al forno.. long pasta baked with tomatoes and mozzarella (this was one of my partner’s favorite dishes of the week)

Sote di vongole..a very good rendition of one of my favorite dishes of the week (perhaps not as spectacular as the version I had enjoyed at A Paranza, but still excellent)

Paccheri Toledo..house special pasta consisting of thick wide tubes of cut pasta with mozzarella, peas, tomatoes and mushrooms. Cheesy goodness!

Eggplant Parmigiana..wonderful, wonderful!

With water and a bottle of house wine (unlabeled bottle), the bill totaled 55 euro.

Hosteria Toledo is a SlowFood eatery, closed Tuesday at dinnertime.


We walked back to the hotel. The next morning we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast before checking out and leaving for the airport in a taxi about 10:30. The ride took us through Chiaia and Vomero and we were able to catch a few last glimpses of the Bay of Naples before heading out on the highway to Capodichino Airport. The ride to the airport took about 30 minutes, maybe less, on that Sunday morning. Although the taxi meter read 18 Euro, the driver claimed a price of 25 Euro due to the travel to the airport and the charge for the two suitcases. I had no doubt then, and I have little doubt now, that he was padding the charge by a few euro but we were in no mood to argue and had not checked the matter out beforehand. In any case, the hotel had quoted us a price of 40 euro for the trip to the airport with a private driver. (I suspect we could have managed to get a better price for this had we been interested).

Our Iberia flight took off just a few minutes late and, soon after 1pm we were aloft and looking down at our last glimpse of the city of Naples and its glorious harbor. We had been anxious about our short connection time (70 minutes) in Madrid but, as I said earlier, the Madrid airport is a marvel and we had transferred terminals and arrived at the departure gate for our JFK-bound flight in 30 minutes, leaving time left for some quick last minute browsing of the airport shops before boarding the aircraft.

And that is the story of our marvelous, unforgettable week on the Amalfi Coast and in the city of Naples. It will not be our last visit!


http://www.hotelfloridiana.it/


http://www.hotelpalazzoalabardieri.com/

ek, thanks for all the great information. I can't wait to be there in July!

Thanks so much, ekscrunchy!

I LOVED reading your report. (and it made me hungry!)

am counting the days till we leave for italy (only 29!!)

dina

Ditto to everything Dina said ! (Only 25 in our case !!)

I am glad to share the joy! I am so excited for you both to be on your way soon!

I just tripped upon your report and am enjoying it very much. I'm saving it in my notes for another trip to Italy. Thank you for all of your details and site addresses as they come in so handy. I try to look at places others have mentioned when I'm planning and I have never been disappointed with the recommendations given here. Thank you for taking the time to share your adventure.
Kim

Thanks eks ! Already planning the next trip after that, thanks to you ! Any idea yet where you will go next ?

Thank you to both of you!

Caroline, I gushed about the trip so much that two older friends of mine want to take a trip to Italy with me in September and we (I) are busily planning one to the Ligurian coast. Have you been there? As usual, I am up to my obsessive questioning on another thread with "Liguria" in the title..

Here is one more note: I thought that we had been overcharged when the taxi driver requested 25 Euro for the trip from our Naples hotel to the airport. But I just read in the Fodor's Naples/Amalfi Coast guidebook that that price falls into the expected range (20-25 Euro) The meter read only 18 Euro but there is a charge per bag, an extra charge for Sundays, and a supplement for airport drives.

Loved the report, I hope the next one turns out just as well...I am sure it will, your attitude will lead the way.

Hi eks. Lucky you. getting to gp twice this year ! No, I haven't been to the Ligurian region - so will look forward to your trip report of that ! Best regards, Caroline.

Eks -

Thanks again for all of the great detailed info on this report and others. We leave tomorrow for Italy and are taking many of your recommendations posted here. The way you describe food assures me that you mean business when it comes to a delightful meal.

Jami

To Ekscrunchy-I don't believe one word of your posting. I believe you stole a scipt from an old Erroll Flynn movie.

I mean "script", not "scipt"

But I am too dense to know what you mean..which film??
I can assure you that EF was nowhere within my sights although I did spot a number of Marcello M. types!!

I think it is the fabrics and tailoring of the clothing and the swagger..and they ALWAYS have good haircuts!

You know, the one in which he tours Europe with Linda Darnell, and visits all the exotic places we always dream about. Come on, you must have seen it!

Thanks for such a great report. I am going to Italy in October and will spend about 10 days in the Amalfi Coast area. It will be a return trip for me to this area,last visit in 2000. Looking forward to new adventures and places to see and eat. Thanks again. Tina

Thanks for the detailed report eks! Glad you had such a good trip. I just got back from my five weeks in Italy, and I was thinking on the plane that next time I go to Western Europe (if the dollar ever recovers, that is) I should really go back to France. But then I thought about spending more time on Capri, and that I didn't make it to Ischia, and now that I've read your report I know that I need to spend more time on the Amalfi Coast. I'll be keeping your suggested places in mind, thanks.

Tina and Thursday (welcome back!) I am glad to whet your appetties!! I certainly want to go back someday soon...I think Cetara would be a great base for a few days before perhaps moving on to Amalfi and then one of the islands....

Waldo..so what is the name of this film or are you putting me on?? Someone that I know claims to be EF's son!

I am so pleased to hear a positive review of Naples. I have been traveling there for almost 40 years to visit my in-laws who live on the Vomero. I agree it takes a certain mind-set to enjoy the city but if you can get into that mind-set it can be so rewarding.

Last year was the first time we had seen an abundance of paccheri on the menu and I brought some home with me. The label says the name has two origins. One is from the Greek "pan keir" which I am told means made by hand and the label indicates that of course paccheri must be made by hand because of its size and shape. The second origin of the name is due to the sound, "pac", the cooked pasta makes as it hits the bowl, a slapping sound. I don't know the truth but both stories are fun.

I will take this opportunity to add the name and address of a new favorite trattoria in Naples open only for lunch and very reasonable, about $20 for lunch for two. It was recommended in August 2007 by Mark Bittman in the Wednesday NYTimes Food section. Its called La Tavernetta and is located in Naples, near the harbor at 13/15 via Loggia di Genova, telephone 011-39-081-204435). The eggplant and pasta dish was fantastic. Everything is so inexpensive you can try lots of things.

Hi again Ekscrunchy, I enjoyed your Naples part of your trip report as much I as enjoyed the Amalfi part.

As some other people have stated, I'm glad to hear positive reviews about Naples. I was going to visit it in 2006 along with Capri but, after having read a few discouraging reviews, I ended up visiting only Capri.

I decided to visit it this year after having read trip reports like this one, but today my mother met a guy from Campobasso, Molise, and practically bombed her with warnings and told her to talked me out of going because, according to him, Naples is one of the most dangerous, unpleasent and unattractive cities in Italy.

Now my mother is all worried and concerned about my safety.

I'm staying for 5 nights at a B&B called Bellini 67 located on Piazza Bellini (I'm dedicating two days to explore the city and two days to daytrip to Pompeii and Caserta). Ekscrunchy, what was your general impression of Piazza Bellini besides the overflowing trash bin? Do you guys have any advice concerning this area?

My bookguide says: "... in the city center simply be aware, not wary".