SCIALATIELLA TO SFOGLIATELLE; PACCHERI TO PROVOLA: 7 Delectable Days in Amalfi and Naples
 

SCIALATIELLA TO SFOGLIATELE; PACCHERI TO PROVOLA..and plenty of sfusati and sfizzi fritti:


Seven Delectable Days in Amalfi and Naples



We just arrived back in the US from a glorious week in Amalfi and Naples and while my memory is fresh, I will attempt to share the highlights, with plenty of details about food. I want to thank SeaUrchin, Weadles, Steve James, Dayle, Caroline Edinburgh, Traveler1959, Waldo, Vicenzo, and everyone else everyone who was so patient and forthcoming with help during the planning phase.

We left JFK on the last Saturday in April, flying Iberia to Naples with a connection in Madrid. The Madrid airport is truly spectacular and, more important, it is an excellent point for connections. (For more about the airport, see my report from 2006:

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34810840

This is the only airport that I can remember that is actually worth visiting even if you do not plan to fly! The efficiency here would be even more important to us on the way home, when we had only 70 minutes in which to connect to our JFK-bound flight; we made the connection with a half hour to spare! Certainly worth keeping in mind for future trips. (Iberia had the best prices and the best connections from JFK-Naples)

We arrived in Naples at midday on a Sunday and were met at the airport by Renato Cuomo, who we had hired to drive us to Amalfi. Mr. Cuomo was unable to make the drive, but introduced us to his fellow driver, Raffaelo. The price for the transfer was 100 Euro.

The ride of about an hour, took us past through some of the less attractive communi Vesuviani, where about a million people live within the danger zone of a future eruption, many in blocky concrete post-war housing blocks. During the ride, I asked the driver about a fall off in tourism from the US due to the poor exchange rate and he confirmed that this was true and that his bookings had fallen off tremendously. This was echoed by other we spoke to during the week. (We found prices to be surprisingly reasonable..more on this later..)

After Castellammare di Stabia the road begins to rise and the scenery improved immensely. We drove through Agerola, famous for its mozzarella, and Furore, where we got our first glimpse of the Costiera Amalfitana! And finally, into Amalfi itself, where we had booked five nights at the Hotel Floridiana, which currently holds the #1 position for Amalfi hotels on Trip Advisor:


http://www.hotelfloridiana.it/english/enhome.html

As some of you know, I vacillated endlessly about an Amalfi hotel for quite awhile prior to departure. We had originally planned to stay at the Luna Convento but were a bit put off by a few poor reviews. After having visited the Luna, I now realize that it would have been just fine, but at 220 Euro for a standard room at the Luna, versus 140 for a superior at the Floridiana, we were very pleased with our decision.

As soon as we arrived in Amalfi, the driver phoned the hotel and Agnese, the young owner, met us in the main square and helped us with our bags. The location of the Floridiana is ideal. Although only about a two minute walk from the piazza, it has a secluded feeling due to its position behind the bustle of the main street and up a few steps. We were given Room #1, a superior room with a terrace overlooking the main street. The room was simple and very comfortable. (We were never bothered by noise form the street but if you are a light sleeper you might want to forego the terrace rooms)

The hotel was formerly a residence for priests and has been in the present owner’s family for about 100 years; she has run it as a hotel for about 4 years. The public areas are lovely; a glorious frescoed ceiling highlights the dining room where breakfast (included) is served; seating is on transparent Ghost chairs which provide a foil for the gilt-accented furnishings and brocade silks. (take a look at the website for an idea of the dining room and guest rooms)

More important than the ceiling and the chairs was the personal attention given us by Agnese and MariaRosa. Both of these women made our stay one of our most memorable in many, many trips to Italy. Both speak English well and were always on hand to give information and advice or just to chat. They made us feel as if we were their guests in a private home, a feeling accentuated by the fact that we rarely came in contact with any other guests during our 5-night stay.

From the minute we left the hotel, we were also convinced that our choice of Amalfi was a good one. We remarked about this to each other many times during the trip. I suspect that people who cautioned against staying here have not actually lodged in the town. While the area on the coast road where the buses and cars park seems a bit hectic, and the main square and the artery leading north away from the sea were often crowded with daytrippers, these do not represent Amalfi as a whole. There is an entire other world away from these areas and along the narrow covered lanes that stretch up the hillside on both sides of the main street. Time and time gain we commented on the resemblance to Andalucia’s “white villages” , and I was also reminded of whitewashed Moorish architecture in the Maghreb. But with pointed arches for window openings.

After a quick stroll around town (no shortage of shops selling lemon soaps and limoncello and a surprising number of items with Mussonlini’s portrait..I made a private note to consider an Il Duce apron for a cook friend of ours) and a short rest, it was time for our first Amalfi coast dinner. Through the hotel, we had reserved a table at A Paranza, a SlowFood pick in neighboring Atrani, about a 15 minute walk (along the main road or on the stepped passageways along the hillside) from the hotel. Atrani is a sleepy sister town to Amalfi; even on this busy Sunday, we saw very few people as we walked along the narrow streets and the covered lanes. We met up with another couple and decided to share a table; at 7:30 the four of us were the only diners but the restaurant filled to capacity by 9:30pm. Most of our fellow diners were Italian. Here, and elsewhere, we found it best to reserve ahead the day before.


A Paranza proved to be one of our favorite restaurants of the trip and we would return here on our last night in Amalfi.

Here and at other local restaurants, most diners did not consult the printed menu but consulted, instead, with the owner in planning their meals. We peeked at the menu but let him guide us to the best dishes of the day. My partner, who does not eat fish, would often leave the selection in the hands of the waiters entirely. We were never disappointed.

Here is what we ate on this first of two dinners at A Paranza:



Fiori di Zucca Ripeini in Pastella (fried zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta and anchovies).. Excellent! My partner, the fish-hater, also loved these!!

Spaghetti vongole.. with two types of clams, vongole veraci and tartufi…wonderful.

Grilled Scampi…Simple and excellent. (served with their heads, which hold the tastiest meat).

Scialatiella a al Siciliana. This was my first experience with this thick, flat long pasta which is a mainstay of Amalfi dining. House made here, with a sauce of eggplant (the “Siciliana” is a key) mozzarella di bufala and cherry tomatoes. Wonderful, marvelous!!!

The house white is a 100% Falanghina from Campania, Falango.

With wine, cover and water, the bill for two persons totaled 55 Euro ($85 US at today’s exchange) By and large, our meal prices remained within the 55- 68 Euro range; we drank only house wines.

After dinner we strolled back to the hotel with a stop for gelato off the main square in Amalfi. Maria at the hotel had recommended a gelato shop at the Porta Marina entrance to the town, on the right as you face the sea.

I will return soon with an account of our first full day in Amalfi, with side trips to Ravello and dinner in Cetara..

Ya got me going. Please write sum more!!!

ttt

The following day, Monday, we began the day with breakfast at the hotel. For the first time that I can remember in Italy, we were treated to superb croissants at a hotel breakfast table. These would be our first introduction to the wonders of pasty in Campania and we would consume many more before the week was out. Breakfast at the Floridana is composed of a buffet of these croissants, breads and cakes with various jams and honeys, and juices (alas, not fresh).

By 10am we were on our way to Ravello aboard the blue SITA bus. We has also debated bout whether or not to rent a car for the Amalfi coast. From what we could glean from observation, the driving would not be too bad as speeding is all but impossible. But parking would be another story, as spaces are difficult to find. The Floridiana does offer free parking, for those that are considering renting a car. I would say that the buses are the best bet, although these can be very crowded at peak times and seats are not guaranteed! In summer traveling anywhere on the coast would be problematic unless you time your journeys for off hours.

I should make note here of the Sorrnto City Sightseeing bus, which is a hop-on, hop-ff vehicle with open double decker seating that runs between Amalfi, Minori, Maiori, and , Ravello; one journey costs 3 Euro and a day ticket costs 10:


www.city-sightseeing.it

As far as timing, we found 5 days to be just enough time to allow for an introduction to some of the highlights of the coast without spending all of your time on the road. We never did get to Capri or to Sorrento and are already planning a future trip which we might consider splitting between the Sorrentine Peninsula and Capri. We also did not have time to explore some of the less touristed inland towns such as Agerola and Pogerola. For anyone on a budget, I would suggest looking into eating in one of these towns where restaurant prices are much lower than on the coast itself, or so we were advised by several locals. (There is a SlowFood restaurant in Pogerola which sounded tempting..)

Once in Ravello, we wandered through the gardens of both the Villa Ruffolo and the Villa Cimbrone. Both of these are “musts” and both offer jaw-dropping views of the coast. Gore Vidal once described the views from the Villa Cimbrone as “the most beautiful panorama in the world.”

We also had a look around the 19-room Hotel Villa Cimbone (deluxe double with sea view, 600 Euro) which appears to be an idyllic spot and where the staff was gracious about allowing non-guests to have a look around. (We found this to be true at each of the hotels we peeked into, including Santa Caterina in Amalfi, Luna Convento in Amalfi, and Le Sireneuse in Positano).

Next: a visit to a coral and cameo (both materials have a long history of being worked for for jewelery on this coast, although I suspect that most of the the coral now comes from Taiwan and around, since it has been over harvested to perilous levels here) studio/shop to the left of the Duomo.

And then it was lunchtime! I had read for years about Cumpa Cosimo in Ravello, which had been a favorite of Garbo and Vidal and many other luminaries, and did not know what to expect..would there be laminated menus with flags posted outside? NO! Cumpa Cosimo is a no frills trattoria under the watchful helm of Netta Bottone, whose father, Cosimo, founded the place 80 years ago. Netta growns many of the vegetables at her farm in nearby Scala. We quickly warmed to the place, even though there were many fellow tourists in evidence that day at lunch. I suggest you consult the menu for a minute and confer with Netta about your selections. Trust her!

This was our very light lunch:

Orata, simply prepared with white wine and lemon..( I had thought this fish was bream but Netta insisted it was “bass’ In English. Whatever it was, it was very good!) When ordering fish, I suggest inquiring whether or not it has been farmed or caught I the wild..

Green salad..lightly dressed soft lettuces and fennel..excellent

Tomato and fresh ricotta salad (provided complimentary to my partner who had not ordered a salad; Netta did not want him to sit before an empty place). This was a revelation…first-rate ingredients, simply presented. And to think the tomatoes were not even in season…(!!)
I suppose it is true what they say about the soil in this part of the world!

Canneloni with meat and tomato sauce..suggested by Netta for the fish-shunner at the table..excellent!!!!!!!

With a carafe of house white wine, water and cover, the bill totaled 35 Euro.



I will mention here that ever since I had read a New York Times article that called their appellation “one of the world’s smallest and most obscure,” I had been eager to sample the aspirino wines from Aversa, in Caserta province and from neighboring Naples province. At Cumpa Cosimo and at every other place we ate and in every liquor store we entered, I asked for this wine and every time this would provoke a smile and sometimes even a slight laugh… In Cetara I got so far as to be told that the wine was not yet ready. It was not until we reached Naples that my quest was satisfied!!! Here is the article:




http://www.nytimes.com/2006/11/08/di...mp;oref=slogin

After some further wandering around Ravello we were back at the SITA bus stop, along with about 50 others, to await the bus back to Amalfi. There was quite a scramble to obtain seats on the 3pm bus and I shudder to think what the scene would be like in the height of summer. So if you do go in high season, again, try to time your day trips if possible, to avoid the crowds. Once back in Amalfi, we took a short peek into a few of the shops. With the poor exchange rate, I found prices for the ceramics and various food items to be high. We paid a short visit to Antichi Sapori di Amalfi, a few steps in from the main square on your right as you face the sea:

http://www.antichisaporidamalfi.it/web/index.cfm?area=2

Here you can watch the production of limoncello and stock up on this spirit in what seemed like hundreds of bottle shapes. Note that contrary to what I have read here, limoncello is yellow and not green!!! (we were later told by a local that no self-respecting Amalfitani would ever BUY their limoncello; rather, they make it at home from lemons, sugar and pure alcohol).

And then, it was time to think about dinner. By 5pm we were at the bus stop again, bound for the fishing village of Cetara, renowned for the production of anchovy and tuna both fresh and in various guises, and for excellent local restaurants.

We arrived in Cetara close to 6pm and had time for a stroll around the port area and a linger on the benches near the sea, where we watched the action until it was ready to head to Al Convento, our chosen spot for dinner, where we had reserved a table at the unfashionable hour of 7:30.

Al Convento proved to be another of our favorites of the trip. Another SlowFood pick (one of three in Cetara!), the restaurant occupies part of a former convent and the whitewashed room with soaring arches is adorned with beautiful old frescoes. Luckily for the fish-shy among us, the menu had plenty of range.

Here is what we devoured at this fantastic restaurant, which is also known for their pizza:

+Tortino di Scarola e Bottarga di Tonno (9 Euro)..A wonderful flan/pudding-type confection of escarole and raisins topped with generous shavings of bottarga (pressed tuna roe). Memorable, innovative, and delightful..

+Spaghetti con Colatura di Alici (8 Euro)..Pasta topped with colatura, the modern version of the anchovy liquid known in Roman times as
Garum (see NY Times article linked below for recipe; colatura is sold in shops along the coast for about 10 Euro a small bottle, and also at New York’s Buon Italia in Chelsea Market)


http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpag...ara&st=nyt


+Cannelloni con Ricotta e Stratiacella di Bufula (7 Euro)…terrific!

+Pizza Margherita (4 Euro)..priced at about half what places in the more touristed towns charge, this was our first introcudtion to the joy that is Campanian pizza. For the rest of the week, we would be hungry for just one more slice!!

House white: Sammarco from Ravello (this was the house white; the wine list covers much of Campania and beyond at prices ranging from 10 Euro to 15 Euro (for a bottle of Guigal Rhone)

Total with water and cover: 38 Euro..a small price to pay for such pleasure!


By 9pm we were back on the bus, bound for Amalfi and the Floridiana.



Al Convento, Piazza San Francisco, 16, Cetara. (Up the steps from the piazza, less than a block from the bus stop) Closed Tuesday.

Since the editing function does not work, here is what I meant to write above:

The coast from Amalfi to Cetara is wilder and even more picturesque than the more developed stretches further west. The town of Cetara reminds me of what many of the other towns must have been like before the advent of mass tourism. This is a working fishing town, with a fishing harbor and colorful boats puled onto the sands of the town beach. There is apparently one good (three-star) hotel in town, the Cetus, and I would guess that this would make a great base for a few nights.

Also, those watching the budget might also consider exploring the possibility of lodging in Minori or Maiori, towns which while not as attractive as the more famous coastal ones, would not be inconvenient for exploration by bus and, from what we heard, offer far lower prices.

To elaborate on what I wrote above about limoncello, the liqueur has no green in it whatsoever, whether or not it is made form "pure" ingredients or has preservatives added. I suspect one would become very thirsty searching for a greenish limoncello!

..and here are some photos (not my own) of Cetara:




http://www.comune.cetara.sa.it/defau...&Nascosto=

and here...is the colatura I wrote about:




http://www.amazon.com/Salted-Anchovi.../dp/B000CRIFGM

ekscrunchy, you write the most delicious trip reports!

sounds like you had a wonderful trip!

i'm really enjoying all the details!

thank you for sharing.

dina

Thanks..I will be back with more tomorrow. But one odd thing happened on the flight over. My partner had packed (and I saw them before we left) two sections of the New York Times in the outer pocket of his checked bag. Imagine our surprise when these were missing on arrival in Naples! These were the Friday and Sunday Arts sections..there must be an English-speaking film buff working in baggage handling!

Eks,

I was excited to see your report today while at (ugh) work. I knew I had to save it until I got home and could enjoy a glass of wine to go with your meal descriptions!

I was right.

Oh yes the Ravello bus scramble! I really didn't think you would run into it in May. Good to know....

Oh, thanks for writing this report and bringing back many edible memories for me. I am glad you had a good time and ate so well. I am looking forward to more tomorrow.

I am enjoying your report *so much*, eks ! I feel honoured that you think I helped with the planning.

Madrid airport is cool, isn't it ? Interesting that it had the same architect as Heathrow Terminal 5 - hopefully that will seem just as great in time, once the teething problems are settled.

You have just made me want to stay in Amalfi again - and eat in all the places you did ! I think you are correct to say "I suspect that people who cautioned against staying here have not actually lodged in the town". I hadn't read of the Floridiana before but it sounds ideal - I will make a note. I stayed twice in the Santa Caterina a few years ago & it's gorgeous, but out of my price range now - also not ideal being a bit out of town, although it does have the advantage of its own 'beach'. I don't remember noticing the Mussolini souvenirs but I suspect DH, who just started cooking last year, would love the apron :-) (As a piece of kitsch I hasten to add !)

I have always understood orata, and its near-homonym dorada, to be bream, too.

Caroline you were a huge help to me. I am trying to keep this a secret but I spent much time since I have been back reading old trip reports and dreaming of going back to that area! So do not be surprised if I quiz you about Ischia sometime soon! I see you are returning again!

I am astounded that people here dismiss Amalfi. But I am also certain that these views come from day trippers. There is a world beyond what people see on the main street..all the scalinatelli leading into the hills where the Amalfitani actually live. And the walks!
And the views! Yes, certainly keep Hotel Floridiana in mind. We did peek into the Santa Caterina and it is, indeed, gorgeous. But all those photos of Hillary Clinton everywhere! The walk to town is along the main road so is not so pleasant but I am sure one could get "used to it" and refresh with a cool vodka and lemon on the terrace after the trek back to the hotel!


To tell the truth, we visited Positano on a day trip (coming soon in the report) and it did not possess nearly the allure for me that Amalfi did. So perhaps that was because WE were the daytrippers in that town.


ALSO, I made a big omission in forgetting to thank KYBOURBON for kindly lending me the Capalbo book on Campania. Thanks, KY.

I'll have to copy this entire delicious report into my Italy file when it's done. Waiting for more . . .

So glad to help ! Although I've stayed in/just outside Positano I still don't like it as much as Amalfi which is more of a real town. Positano in the evening is pretty much the same as Positano in the daytime - just full of tourists & boutiques aimed at tourists. Each time I've been it's just been because of the hotel we stayed in, and we barely left.

eks -

Love reading your report, especially your feelings towards Amalfi. I am torn between Positano (for the views) or Sorrento and than started considering Amalfi. If we're planning a day trip to Pompeii and Capri would you still recommend it?

Looking forward to your next installment.

I have not been to Sorrento in years so can't comment on staying there. It is, however, closer to Pompeii.

But yes, Amalfi is a great base and you could certainly travel to Pompeii and Capri from there. There are ferries to Capri, weather permitting, and you could take the bus/train combo to Pompeii. And since many buses originate in Amalfi, your chance of getting a seat, no small factor, are better in Amalfi I would guess.

Amalfi has views that, to me, are just as spectacular as those in Positano. And the main square and main street are flat, unlike in Positano. We liked Amalfi so much that we gave up on our idea of taking a daytrip to Capri.. But Amalfi does not ahve the concentration of luxury boutiques that Positano has, so if that is of interest you are better off in Positano. We also noticed a much larger concentration of Americans and other English-speaking tourists in Positano than in Amalfi, but that is not scientific as it is based only on our brief visit.

To me, in a short (less than a week) visit it might better to concentrate either on the Amalfi Drive or the Sorrentine Peninsula. (visiting Pompeii from either place) There are day trips within both of those regions and you do not want to spend every day on the bus. In fact, we are even considering returning in the future and basing someplace on the S. peninsula so we can explore that and perhaps visit either Capri or Ischia for a few days.

I don't think there is any right and wrong here. Amalfi appealed to us because it was a real town that, while there were many tourists, also appeared to have an existence apart from the tourist-oriented places. There were real shops for locals and much opportunity to get away from the congestion of the main street. Perhaps this is true of Positano as well, on the upper half of the town, above the main road. I wonder what that part of Positano is like..

I want to add I am glad if I helped you in some ways in planning your trip. I love Amalfi so much, we stayed in a beautiful apartment there for two weeks. At night the town is just for the locals and the stay-overs like you say which makes it so pleasant. I think we tried almost all the restaurants in town, some of them hidden away in the covered alleys.

SeaUrchin you helped me a lot! You were always there with answers to my endless questions. And I did see the apartment rental place that I think you mentioned here. I would certainly consider renting a place someday..

I will be back soon with more details..

Also I want to mention one more thing in the Amalfi-Positano comparison issue: Positano's beach is directly below the town so you have to walk down many steps to reach it. But in Amalfi, the road separates the beaches from the town so you have to cross it to get to the beaches. Access to Amalfi from the bus stop requires no step-climbing, however, while to reach most hotels in Positano you would have to either descend or ascend, (unless of course, you are staying at Le Sireneuse which is near the main road!!)

I hope that helps some people understand some of the differences in layout of the two towns.

The next day, Tuesday, dawned cloudy and a little cooler. This would be the only day that the weather was less than spectacular. We awoke a little late after having slept very well; we were surprised to feel very few effects of jet lag during the week. After breakfast at the hotel, we boarded the 11am bus to Positano. Tickets must be purchased before boarding from one of at least two sales points across from the main bus stop.

The ride, of course, is spectacular and within about 30 minutes we were in Positano. I had been here once before many years ago and did not fall under the spell of this famous town. My initial feelings remained much the same, colored, I am certain, by the hordes of fellow daytrippers we encountered along the narrow streets leading down to the sea. The narrow Via dei Mulini is lined with a string of tourist shops offering everything from the postcards and the ubiquitous limoncello to resortwear to paintings and even life-sized panthers cast in bronze that would be just the thing for your dacha outside Moscow. (No Il Duce aprons were spotted in my cursory glance.)


We took a quick peek inside Le Sireneuse where were invited to have a drink on the terrace by the courteous front desk person. As I mentioned, the staff at these upscale hotels were uniformly congenial when we asked to look around. It looks like a lovely hotel and has wonderful views of the town from the terraces and, no doubt, from the guest rooms. We passed, however, on the drink and made our way through the throngs past the Piazza with its fantastic tile-covered cement lounge chair, and the Chiesa Madre, home to the black virgin of Positano, down to the pebbly gray beach at the bottom of the hill. Here we noticed the hotel Covo dei Saracini, where a friend of mine returns frequently in summer; we both agreed that staying here on the beach would not be a bad way to pass vacation days.

After less than an hour we were ready to move on, but the next ferry was not leaving until 1:30pm, so we set off on the path that leads west from the right side of of the ferry dock. This cliff-hugging walkway is named the Via Positanesi d”America, a reminder that three-quarters of the town’s population set sail for America in the late 19th Century, with most settling in New York City. This footpath, which links the Marina Grande with the less-crowded but smaller Fornillo Beach, was the highlight of our visit that day. It passes the Torre Trasita, one of a string of coastal defense towers erected to defend the coastal villages from pirate attacks and now converted to a residence (dream on…..it apparently comes up for rental once in a while) and continues past Lo Guaraccino Restaurant which enjoys a film-set-worthy position at the bottom of the cliff and facing the sea. We turned back before reaching Fornillo Beach, however, and boarded the ferry (6 Euro) at 1:30 bound for Amalfi. The ferry ride alone is worth the trip, sailing past deserted coves, the San Pietro Hotel, the town of Praiano, the Furore Gorge, and the tiny village of Conca dei Marini before rounding the point and heading into Amalfi’s harbor. (In Conca dei Marini I noticed a hotel on the sea apparently built above what looked like a stone fortification of some kind..does anyone have an idea what this is?? It is between the Capo di Conca point and Amalfi)

Once in Amalfi, we stopped into the Marina Grande restaurant and reserved a window table facing the sea for that evening. We found that it was important to reserve ahead, even during the week. this was a “bridge” week, between the Liberation and May Day weekends so the area was more crowded than usual and I imagine that in high season reservations would be essential even days in advance.

We decided to skip lunch this day and snack on local cheese and salami. Although the small supermarket a few steps from the hotel (on a passageway just off the main street) closes during lunch hours, we found a small shop nearby where we purchased bufala mozzarella, slices of local salami and a loaf of bread.

If I have not mentioned it, the soft cheeses in the area are absolutely amazing..both cow’s milk and buffalo milk are turned into provola, scamorza, caciocavallo, mozzarella in various stages of ageing and often smoked. The smoked provola, provola affumicata, now ranks up there with my favorite cheese on earth!!!!! After our little lunch in the room I was more determined than before to pay a visit to the cheesemakers near Battipaglia, one of the centers (nearby Agerola is another) of production in the area.

Surprise: The Torre Trasita IS available for rental. For anyone planning to stay awhile in Positano, I cannot think of a more glorious perch:


http://www.tuscanestates.com/seaside_torre_trasita.php

To correct two (probably just a fraction of the total) embarrassing errors above:


Villa CimbRone

Asprinio di Aversa

I forgot to mention that with our lunch we sampled a favorite snack of the region, taralli, which are savory hard biscuits made in various flavors and sometimes embellished with almonds. These would make nice treats to bring home (Taralli Senza Pepe; brand name: Felix are the ones we liked)

Dinner that evening was at Marina Grande, one of a group of restaurants jutting out over Amalfi's main beach, the Marina Grande, to the left of the bus area as you face the sea. A family place run by three brothers, one of whom rushed to greet us as we descended the steps and entered the restaurant, this was a recommendation from an Italian restaurant critic’s website.

We began our meal with a favorite appetizer of the coast, scamorza (local cheese) wrapped in lemon leaves and grilled, served with roasted red peppers and thin shards of zucchini. Scamorza is a favorite cheese of mine and I have tried, unsuccessfully, to concoct a similar dish (minus the lemon leaves, at home). Excellent! (8 Euro)

Two pastas arrived next: Mezzelune filled with a bland of ricci di mare (sea urchin) and ricotta and served with a light tomato sauce. (13 Euro) and, for the non-fish-eater, Rigatoni con Melanzane, pomodoro fresco e Provola Affumicata (oh, that provola affumicata!) (13 Euro)

Both pastas were excellent.

And finally, Pizza 4 Formaggi (four cheeses)..as I may have mentioned above, many restaurants on the coast serve pizza at night. Superb (7 Euro)

Our wine was from Ravello, a white from Klingsor. We passed on dessert, although we were tempted. Marina Grande serves Mariage Freres tea for 3 Euro per pot. The total with water and cover totaled 61 Euro which made this dinner among the most expensive of the week. Well worth it.

Marina Grande rents beach lounges and umbrellas and will serve lunch to beach-goers at their chairs, or in the restaurant itself. The dining room contains an enclosed terrace that I imagine would be open to the air in warmer weather.




http://www.ristorantemarinagrande.com/

The next morning we were up early for our long-awaited excursion with a hired car and driver to Paestum and the mozzarella heartland outside Battipaglia.

We had originally received price quotes (by e-mail before departure) of 300 Euro for this trip, but when I advised Agnese at the Hotel Floridiana of our plans, she suggested that the quoted price sounded high. An important tip when contemplating a hired driver for an Amalfi coast-area excursion is to consider the home base of the driver. A driver who is based near Sorrento will probably ask a higher price to travel to Paestum than one who is based further east, regardless of your hotel location, because the Sorrento driver will have a much longer route to travel. Likewise, for a trip to Pompeii, a driver living in the Sorrento area might be willing to accept a lower fee than one who has to begin in Amalfi.

Based on Agnese’s recommendation, we arrived at a price of 180 Euro which would include a trip to Paestum with waiting time, a stop at a mozzarella caseficio, and delivery to Cetara where we would have lunch. We would then return to Amalfi by bus, thus sparing the driver the waiting time and therefore keeping the price down. We were very pleased with how our day worked out and I recommend our driver, Dino Toffoletto. Dino is a cautious driver and shared his love for the area (he lives in Maiori) with us in a mix of English and Italian. He understands basic English but is not fluent. He is most willing to discuss food and life on the Campanian coast.

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ek, I've been anxiously awaiting your report, and it doesn't disappoint! I'm going to either Naples or Capri, then Sorrento in July (I know, not the best time, but it's when I can go) and look forward to the rest of your info.

I originally debated between Naples and Capri and decided on Naples. Then with all the news about the garbage, I decided maybe I should spend those three nights in Capri instead. Now you've got me wondering again!

Drat, I didn't get to Marina Grande, now I am disappointed and will just have to return sooner.

On one thread I suggested to someone that they wait until they get to Amalfi itself and negotiate a price with a local driver for any tour in that area. I am glad your Agnese advised you too.

How did you enjoy Paestum and the cheese place?

After driving through the city of Salerno, the site of the Allied invasion of Italy and largely destroyed by an earthquake in the 18th Century and Allied bombing during World War Two (but reputedly a pleasant city with good restaurants and an important cathedral), the terrain flattens out and artichoke and strawberry fields sprout along the highway. I was astounded to see open-back trucks piled high with the famous Paestum artichokes: 30 for 5 Euro!!! (It was Dino’s turn to be astounded when I told him that a usual price in New York was $2.99 for ONE large artichoke, and he shared with us his favorite artichoke preparation: grilled over coals and served with provola cheese)

After a drive of about 2.5 hours, give or take a few minutes, we reached the entrance to the archeological site of Paestum, formerly the Greek city of Poseidonia, founded about 600 B.C. Three principal temples dominate the site and there re remains of Roman roads and Roman construction as well. While touring the ruins we came upon a group of teenagers from Naples who were on a field trip. In a group of about 30 children, perhaps three were paying attention to the teacher’s lecture while the others flirted with each other, tossed a ball in the air, gabbed on cell phones, and introduced themselves to us. They were quite excited when we told them we were from New York (one wanted to know if that was the city of the “twin towers” and if, in fact, these towers had fallen!!) They were also quick to share the names of their favorite pizza places in Naples (none of which I remember) and to pose for our photos, which they then had to pass around and comment on.

After touring the site, which are in even better condition than the astounding temples at Agrigento in Sicily, we visited the museum and marveled at the frescoed tombs including the famous Tomb of the Diver with its mysterious symbolism. I highly recommend a visit to Paestum. It took us about two hours do make a cursory tour through the site and the museum (another half an hour would have been ideal) after which we headed for the long awaited visit to a mozzarella “caseficio.”

You were so helpful to me with this trip! Absolutely the best idea is to wait until arrival to arrange a driver. You might not find one fluent in English but it really matters very little, or at least it mattered little to me. The price difference was huge! There is NO reason to arrange this in advance and negotiation is always possible.

Susan I was not bothered one iota by the garbage in Naples. Yes, we saw a few overflowing bins along the highways but within the center city there was little evidence of a problem and, in fact, we saw them emptying the garbage bins twice a day along Via Chiaia!

There is an article in today's New York Times that suggests that Berlusconi will be working to end the crisis..people we spoke to seem to feel that things are about to change now that he is back in office. He seems to be quite popular on the AC and in Naples, based on our tiny sampling of voters!

Don't let this photo scare you..you would not be anywhere near the scene:


http://www.nytimes.com/2008/05/07/wo...mp;oref=slogin


We did not take that day trip to Capri. Since returning home I have done some further reading about the island and there seem to be such mixed opinions..what is your plan as far as hotels and location?

I had visions of stand after stand lining the roads around Paestum, each offering mozzarella in various guises. And water buffalo grazing in verdant fields! This may, in fact, be the scene closer to Battipaglia but we saw nary a lone buffalo on our route and no stands along the highway. But Dino knew exactly where to point the car and within minutes of leaving the Paestum site, we pulled up in front of Masseria Lupata, via Porta Marina, Paestum. Phone: 0828.722.002. Sadly, the line of steel tubs were empty as production takes place in the mornings. So if you have not seen the process of making mozzarella I would suggest phoning to inquire about timing and visiting the masseria before heading for the ruins. I had seen the cheese being made here in New York so was not too disappointed. Any lingering regret certainly vanished once we walked around the back to the store. There, in shiny metal and glass cases, rested mozzarella of cow and buffalo milk in about 20 different guises! Fresh, aged for a day, aged for a week, smoked, soft, hard, fresh, as well as bars of buffalo butter (about 2 euro a kilo as opposed to the $8US or so charged for this butter here in New York!) In my next life, I will rent an apartment in Amalfi and head here on the first day to stock up on cheese. Imagine the meals you could concoct back at the house with the cheese, the artichokes, the tomatoes, the various salumi???? It boggles the mind!!! Since many of the cheeses are at their peak only on the day of manufacturer, I had to content myself with a huge ball of slightly aged provola which now rests in my frig here at home to be used in tomorrow’s dinner, and a bag of small balls of provola affumicata which we nibbled on for the next two days at any occasion. Incredible! And inexpensive!!!!!!!!!!!!!! One of the food highlights of Italy!!!!!

Dino and fellow Campanians, please forgive me for what I am about to reveal. On the way back to Salerno and Amalfi, we drove along the beach road from Paestum. A beautiful beach strip marred by hideous new construction which Dino suggested had taken place with no building permits (we heard this over and over in Campania). And positioned along this road were girls who looked to be about 15 years old in various states of undress. From “the east,” Dino confided. He was absolutely mortified that we were privy to the sight, which really brought home the issue of trafficking to me.

Soon we were back in Cetara and ready for lunch…more soon…

ek, the hotel I had planned on for Naples was Hotel Executive, Via del Cerriglio, based on caroline edinburgh's trip report. And I really like the price, 65E for a single room. I'm really leaning towards going back to my original plan, not that I wouldn't like to stay overnight on Capri as well, but you can only do so much! :-d (I'll be in Rome again after Sorrento this trip.)

I want to try to Burrata cheese, the fresh mozarella that is creamier inside I think. (I read about how it is made, but the details escape me at the moment.) Did you get to taste that?

Susan the odd thing is that we did not come across any burrata! But many of the provola cheeses had somewhat soft center. I have to check the origins of the burrata sold here in NYC...I thought that the one I've seen here was from Puglia(???) (The one wrapped in the leaves)

Maybe Vicenzo can fill us in..I was expecting to see this and did not..

ek,thank you for your report. I am enjoying it and saving it for all your great details. It is good to know the more reasonably priced places.

So provola is an aged cheese that you can bring back to the US and is still soft inside? I know you can't generally bring back soft cheeses, but if I could bring back something like that, it would be good to know that.

Looking forward to your experiences in Naples.

Eks -

I am so happy I came across this report. I have been on the look out for a report following your trip.

I am going to savour every word.

Jami

Thanks, everyone. I will continue tomorrow.

Susan, I am not sure if you are actually allowed to bring it back, but there are various types of provola, aged for different lengths of time. The one I brought home is not as soft as many of them because the softest ones have to be consumed within a couple of days, or so I understand.. I am not even sure if the one I brought home (they vacuum packed it for me) is still in great condition, although they told me at the shop that it would keep for a month. I will take it out and use it tomorrow night..

I had some bufala mozzarella left in my hotel room refrigerator when I left Amalfi; it was three days old and Agnese told me to throw it away. (Although I certainly keep fresh mozzarella for 4 days when I buy it here in NY. But it certainly is not as good after it has been refrigerated)

I'm going to Campania next June and by reading your trip report I felt as if I were watching a trailer of my trip.

I've also been to Positano as a day trip from Capri and I wasn't impressed either. I'm basing in Amalfi as well because I've also read in some other trip reports that, unlike Positano, it really gives you the feeling of a real place.

Great trip report! I specially enjoyed the food parts!

More fantastic writing, eks. You certainly made the most of your trip & make me feel very lazy ! Must try to get to Paestum soon.

Susan and ekscrunchy--

One of the highlights of my two visits to Puglia has been enjoying fresh mozzarella each day and burrata in particular. I was there again in March and we made sure to reserve a burrata at the local latticcini since they are snapped up early in the morning..

Burrata looks like a fresh mozzarella. It spreads out slightly a it sits, because the insides are only partially formed, still milky and curdy in spots. When you cut into it, it begins to ooze. Heavenly.

We had fresh mozzarella of some kind every day. Even the mozzarella "braids" from the local supermarket were excellent. My Italian friend said that the Pugliese will not put up with bad cheese or bread, so that even the larger supermarkets have high quality cheese. The bread bakers must bake twice a day.

I've seen burrata on the menu at Bar Pitti in NYC, for a whopping $19 (serves two people). I suppose it's cheaper than an airline ticket . . .