LB:

For Florence, you might take a look at my report from a few years ago--there is a lot of food information. I will top the report for you. I have never dined at either of the two places you mention, however. On another trip I liked the Cibreo trattoria, too.

I urge you to have at least one meal in Cetara, IF you like fish. But it IS a bit of a schlep. I am always willing to rage far and wide for food but if your time is pressed, just leave it for another time.

I do not know Buca di Bacco but I am not sure it would be my type of place based on location alone--it seems as if it is far too popular with tourists in a town that, to me, it a bit too popular with foregin tourists. I could be way off base on this, though.

One place in Positano that might be more my style (but I have not been) is Barilotto di Nonno. There is not much online about this low-key place but you can find a bit with a search.

Is I Trani the place on the main drag of Amalfi, within the town? If so, Agnese at my hotel liked it well enough to recommend it to me.

Remember that in Italy, especially out of the cities and even within most cities, I usually favor low key trattorie rather than more dressy white-tablecloth places. So my style is not for everyone. Honestly, the eating is so good in the Amalfi area that I don't think you can go too far wrong.

I hope I have helped narrow things down a bit, but I fear that you may be still as torn as ever! In any event, I love discussing these things, so ask away.

Not at all-- you are nothing but a huge help. I couldnt find the post with the exact location of I Trani on Chowhound but SO many people seem to love it-- also raves for Al Convento and the others we discussed above so I should be able to craft some great eating in Amalfi.
I have your Rome report- must look for the Florence- have read alot about Cibreo-- from what I've read, I get the feeling it may be a little too adventurous for my kids-- (if what I read was correct). A foodie friend included it in her list to me along with Angiolino, Camillo and Aqua al Due. Havent really researched those yet.
BUT- I just received a blow by email from Armando al Pantheon (5 minutes ago!) telling me they are closed for all of August. That is indeed upsetting as it was my plan for at least night 1 and maybe a second (we're at the del Senato). Have also been looking at La Taverna dei Monti, (clearly not the same as Trattoria Monti, correct?).)Matricianella, Giggetto ,La Campana and one of the recent tratorrias that was written up in the Times- I think Felice a Testaccio (its in another room at the moment). Of course some of the pizzarias (Dar Poeta).So-- A little confused now-- I thought I had that first night nailed (will be a Friday). If you have any thoughts would love to hear them and thanks!

LB: Do not worry about Armando being closed. It is a somewhat "typical" Roman trattoria and the reason it is so popular and often mentioned is that the location is smack in the center of the historic district. I think you should take a look at the SlowFood guide, for starters, and see what else you can come up with; you may have to take a taxi but that is not difficult. I have not been to Felice (yes it is in Testaccio) but have it on my list for next time. I don't know about another place with Monti in the name; why not try Trattoria Monti? Also, have you taken a look at Maureen Fant's restaurant list on her website?

The Cibreo I ate at in Florence was not the restaurant, but the adjacent trattoria, which takes no reservations. But the food is a little different than the norm, so might not be so great for the kids. They do not serve pasta, for example.

I've been to Camillo a couple of times and found it to be good. There is a string of places in that area that draw lots of visitors along with locals. Camillo is one of the better ones, or at least it was back when I last visited. My preference would be to travel a little further south to the area around Piazza Tasso; one place I like a lot is Alla Vecchia Bettola.

Thank you! Will be sure to check out Alla Vecchia Bettola.I would certainly try Trattoria Monti-- again-- the chowhound folks loves both. the Taverna has a very cool menu - I KNOW we will have pleny of great eating and this is just a little bit of OCD on my part. Taxis no problem. I'm a new yorker that takes way way too many of them.

Hi Eks-
I hope you see this as it is a very old thread. I am just about over grieving the end of our family trip (late August). So much to say about it and with each passing day our memories get better and better. I dont have my notes here but I wanted to thank you SO much for all of your help, especially with Amalfi. Not sure if you remember, but we stayed at the Marina Riviera for four nights- this being the end of our Venice-Florence-Rome trip .
We pretty much utilized all of your dining suggestions and our meal at A Paranza was one of our highlights (including the walk to and through Atrani). We also loved Marina Grande, had great pizza in town, and our last meal at Da Gemma.
Probably all around best day was our all day boattrip with L'Uomo et il Mare (aka Salvatore et Gennaro) where we actoually met another Fodor's couple from NYC.
Also used Mr. Cuomo's car service twice and it was wonderful and well priced.
Have so much more to write but not sure if you check these older messages.
Anyway- thanks so much to you and everyone else who was so generous with your time and advice.
Will do the same if I can.

LB: I am So glad that the trip went well! PLEASE let us know more details! I would love to hear, in particular, about Marina Grande. And about the boat trip. I am glad that my report was useful. I will stay tuned for more comments!

Will drag out my hotel/restaurant notes--to say that there were some major eating and visual highlights in all 4 cities is an understatement. Something so special each day that I almost dont know where to begin but I will say that we unfortunately encountered a heat spell of at least and usually over 100 each day which had a major impact on us (me more than anyone else) in a way that I never imagined. The heat was unrelenting- and never cooled off- even at night, so that really dampened the motivation to do huge amounts of walking and those extra neighborhood explorations that I was so looking forward to- even hanging out with the pigeons in St.Mark's Square (my son's favorite activity) was daunting. But I digress-
Given the heat, we were thrilled to have scheduled a day trip (Amalfi Coast trip- one of three I think) with L'Uomo e il Mare. The owner, Peter, is a transplanted Brit who has lived in Italy for years. A fairly experienced chef himself (by hobby), he spent much of the trip sharing his secrets for preparing the perfect fish, scampi etc. We had hoped to check out a particular shop in Positano that he had told us was his favorite for olive oil and other condiments but there simply wasnt time after the trip.

The boat was limited to about 15 people- it left from Positano about 10 or so which meant a 9:20 ferry from Amalfi.
We were introduced to each other, shown the chest full of water, soda and wine and motored off for about 7 hours of bliss. Essentially stopping at tiny little coves, grottos and a few little beaches, dropping anchor at each for swimming in cool yet perfectly delightful water (or not).In total there were about seven or eight swimming stops. Not swimming was simply not an option -even for me who usually draws the line at bathub temperature or higher.
The trip included a 2 hour stop at a tiny seaside restaurant where we were treated with a 4 course meal of bread,salad, fried seafood, delicious pasta and fish and dessert. Plenty of wine. At the end of the meal, we were treated with the usual limoncello accompanied by the "la nonna's" secret concoction of chocolate liquid bliss-think super strong chocolate liquer. Peter was kind enough to convince the owner to sell me a bottle for 20 euros. It was the perfect excuse to buy an appropriate Amalfi-made ceramic bottle to transport it home in, the the owner of the shop cleaned the bottle, decanted my treasure and spent about a half hour wrapping, taping and bubble wrapping it for the plane.
The trip returned to Positano in time for us to take the last ferry back to Amalfi. I think it was somewhere between 75 and 80 euros per person. They may have discounted my boys (teenagers).
The only casualty in an otherwise perfect day was that my son forgot to remove his brand new wallet ( just purchased at La Scuola de Cuoio in Florence where an artisan gold leaf monograms it right there for one euro) from his bathing suit.Happily, the wallet lives on--

LB: A special belated thanks for adding the details of what sounds like a fabulous day on the water..I really need to do this when and if I am fortunate enough to return to the area. And your son will just have to pencil in a return to the Scuola de Cuoio for a new wallet!

Where are you headed next??

topping for wrenwood

ek-- so sorry I just saw this. Yes it was WONDERFUL!!! I wish I was better at posting pictures because son took about 20,000 amazing pictures that may be on snapfish. Will check.
As to where we are headed next-- 6 days (May 26-June 2) to Paris for French Open. Husband is major tennis fan and this has been his dream. We just secured tix for two days (for him only!) thru the official Roland Garros website. Will be staying in an apartment in the Marais. Now the task of looking for delcious (but not over the top) restaurants. Have been to Paris many times but not since 2006. Places I'm reading about are Frenchie, Table 28 (of all things- a Chicago based chef) who owns another place called Spring. Any suggestions welcome!
How are you?

I am curious as to why Burrata cheese is so difficult to find in Italy. On my last trip I never saw it once on the menu. My friend owns some restaruants in LA, and when I first tried some at his place, I was hooked. Amazing, I'm hopeful I'll run into some on my upcomming trip!

Chazzarelli: But where were you in Italy? I think that burrata does not keep like many other cheeses and therefore, does not do so well when shipped. So it should be easier to find closer to its place of production, ie, regions of Puglia and near Paestum.

I was in Rome, Naples, Venice, Bologna, Parma and Siena.

The only place I've ever had it was in LA. I just figured I'd run accross it somewhere in Italy.

On my upcomming trip, I'll be in some of the same places I've been before, although I'm working on extending my trip and figuring out a few more places.

topping for DebbieAllen, for info on Sfogliatelle Mary and Sorbillo pizzeria

topping for cmndesign

Resurrecting this thread to add the llnk to the mozzarella (and other cheese) maker that we visited, near Paestum. They did not have a website at the time of my 2008 visit:




http://www.masserialupatabarlotti.it/

glad you updated. I missed this the first time 'round, and it confirms something i wrote in a FF reply yesterday: i dint think nine days in the area would lead to boredom!

Since I mentioned sfogliatelle in the title of this report, I will post these photos that I just found:




http://foodloversodyssey.typepad.com...les-italy.html

Adding to this thread, the NYTimes just gave a good review to a new (5.2012) book about Naples, NAPLES DECLARED.


http://www.amazon.com/Naples-Declare.../dp/0399159177

Review is included in this wrap-up of new travel books for summer reading:

http://www.nytimes.com/2012/06/03/bo...pagewanted=all

This thread has been invaluable for me in getting glimpses of what to expect when I am in the area for 5 weeks this fall. The restaurants, the stunning scenery are just a glimmer of hope at the moment but your recommendations are invaluable. I am staying in B & B's and agritoursimos along the way in Piano di Sorrento, Nocelle, Atrani, Capri, and Paestum and then apartments in Tropea and Calitri. I sure wish I could get my hands on a copy of Capalbo's book The Food and Wines of Naples and Campania!!!

It is out of print. I had planned a week at a cooking school in Sicily but decided that that area deserved a month on its own someday so split a little more than a week on the Amalfi Coast, Capri and Paestum. I will be in this area in November. Does anyone know if I can still get to Capri from the Amalfi Coast at this time of year? Or do I have to travel back to Sorrento?

It's still available, though rather pricey these days - on both sides of the Atlantic:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Food-Lovers-.../dp/1873429711

http://www.amazon.com/Food-Wine-Guid.../dp/1873429711

Feltrinelli don't appear to have it listed here, but you might like this - which is at least a little more affordable:

http://www.amazon.com/Italian-Wine-G...ian+wine+guide

We've got the previous version, and refer to both before travelling anywhere new locally!

Even cheaper still, there's a very nice little intoduction to some of our regional specialities that can be downloaded for free!

http://www.bb-napoli.com/english/specialities-guide.pdf

...........................

Those direct ferries are likely to have ended by then - running until very soon after the All Souls holiday at the latest, so you'll probably have to travel via Sorrento... although nice weather and plenty of punters may see them carry on for a while longer, especially after the very slow start there's been to the season this year!

Peter

The price for that books can fluctuate so keep looking, and do check other online sources such as Abe Books. Fred Plotkin's "bible" is another essential companion for a food-focused trip, although he does not have the concentration of information about Campania of the Capalbo book.

Last fall I took a 2-week-plus drive from Lamezia Terme in Calabria, north to Amantea and Maratea and along the Cilento Coast, continuing on to Paestum and to several stops on the Amalfi Coast, both at sea level and in the hills. I will be happy to comment if you are contemplating a trip like this.

Ekocrunch, I would be taking a similar trip but in the opposite direction from Sorrento, Amalfi and then on to Paestum. I would enjoy hearing all about your journey.

Thanks for the information Peter! I have dowkoaded the free book and will keep searching for Capalbo's.

Will you be stopping at Paestum, or continuing further south in the Cilento and beyond?
We spent 3 nights at Sta. Maria Castellabate, a charming town on the beach in the northern Cilento. We used Castellabate as a base to travel to the nearby temples of Paestum as well as to the Tenuta Vannulo, one of several in the area where buffalo are raised for cheese making. (This area is one of two sources for the legendary mozzarella di bufala that you will find throughout Campania, with the other being the area near Caserta) We took the English-language tour of the Vannulo farm, which included samples of the fresh cheese. Here is a brief report about my experience there; note that this was on a visit several years later than the one described in this thread:


TENUTA VANNULO..CAPACCIO SCALO (near Paestum, south of Salerno)

Whenever the discussion turns to mozzarella from the Paestum area, the name Vannulo comes up, as this is the most well-known of the “mozzarella farms” lining the state highway south of Battipaglia. (The word mozzarella, when spoken in the Cilento, refers to buffalo mozzarella only. Mozzarella made from cow’s milk is “fior di latte.” In the Amalfi area, the term “mozzarella” means the cow milk cheese, produced in Agerola; the product from Cilento, or from Caserta, is referred to there as “mozzarella di bufala.”)

Unlike most farms, Vannulo is organic and unlike most farms, they offer tours in several languages. We phoned ahead to book the 10am English tour, making the short drive from Castallabate on a Friday morning.

For a fee of 4 euro per person, about 20 of us received a tour of the vast buffalo pens, housing several hundred female animals and only a few males, with separate sections for eating, relaxing (on rubber mattresses) , and milking. Feeling itchy? Waddle over to the large, vertical car-wash-like rotating brush for a rubdown. Much was made of the special Swedish milking machine. A few minutes were spent in front of a large picture window, watching the stretching of the curds into the familiar mozzarella balls and the not-so-familiar treccia braids. An equal number of minutes were spent inside the “leather boutique,” offering handbags and small accessories made from (male) buffalo skin. (The male buffalo meet a fate far less pleasant than that of the females) A small museum details the history of the farm and displays old implements and interesting photos, including one of the animals grazing amidst the temples at nearby Paestum. Generous samples were handed out at the end of the tour, which lasted about 45 minutes. The information imparted at the tour was pretty basic; one could probably wander around alone and view the animal barns and the through-the-window cheese making.

The most interesting part of the excursion, for me, was the shop selling the buffalo mozzarella, ricotta, provola, and other heavenly incarnations of the milk. Since shipping requires refrigeration, and since this mozzarella should never be refrigerated, it is available only here and the waiting throngs indicated that this is, indeed, a much-prized local product. The cheese often sells out before noon. The white-swathed saleswomen obligingly packed up my meager purchases, with their "acqua bianca" liquid, in a plastic container which was set inside a Styrofoam container. Every other person who exited the shop seemed to be carrying at least 4 of these containers, along with assorted shopping bags. It was quite a sight.

There is a “yogurteria” next door that also saw lots of activity on that Friday morning. Although the menu offers a long list of cakes, and gelati, and yogurt made from buffalo milk, the signature order here appeared to be a heft slice of brioche slathered with fruit yogurt. I tried an apricot yogurt and it was, indeed, pretty terrific.

As for the mozzarella? I lack the words but will never forget.

The farm is but a few minutes drive from the Paestum site.

http://www.vannulo.it/visita.html




Note the disrespect accorded to fior di latte (the cow's milk version of mozzarella, made in Agerola on the Amalfi Coast, as well as in many other locations) on this officlal site:

http://www.mozzarelladibufala.org/all...








http://www.paestum.de/en/paestum.htm

Once I dropped the week in Sicily from my trip I have been rather indecisive about where to spend the extra time. The time of year makes it more difficult to stay and eat where I would like to. I have been talking to Cecilia the owner of the Seliano buffalo mozzarella farm near Paestum. She is willing to stay open and and also provide me with a cooking class. When travelling solo it is also difficult this time of year to join other groups since not many are still travelling in November. It seems that at some point I may very well need to rent a car, although I have been trying to avoid it.

Val, sorry I did not respond sooner.

This B&B in Agropoli (Cilento) gets raves on review sites. It appears that the owners are willing to ferry guests around a bit, and they also offer cooking classes. Agropoli is a large town that I think would make an interesting base for a few days. (We stayed nearby in Castellabate, but I expect Agropoli would be much livelier in the off season, and it is closer (only 9km distant) from Paestum, for the temples and the buffalo farms)

http://www.baiaditrentova.com/

It sounds like a wonderful place and as far as cooking vacations it is really inexpensive.Thanks for the suggestion.

I just had a fun hour re-reding this thread, and it brought to mind so many more posters who are no longer active here: I send them by heartfelt thanksk for their kind contributions here and hope that they are still well, and traveling!!

SeaUrchin
Dayle
Steve_James
A_Brit_in_Ischia
LowCountryIslander

And so many others!

Anyway, since many of you are bound for the Naples/Amalfi area, I hope that this report, although written long ago, might be of some help...

Myself, I plan to fly into Naples and travel south, next month.