twiggers

Hello everyone,

This forum was such a great help in planning my itinerary for a fall Netherlands/Belgium/Lux/Germany trip that I want to come back and get help for my Rome trip.

We are doing a Med. cruise that departs from Rome and are tacking on some time in Rome beforehand. We have a bit of a crazy flight there and back (long layovers in London & Madrid...which is fun). Basically, we arrive in Europe on a Thurs morning and get to Rome late Thurs night. We are staying at an airport hotel just to save a bit of money and not hassle getting into the city all tired. So, we'll be in Rome proper by Friday morning and depart the following Sunday, mid-morning. This essentially gives us 9 full days in Rome. Plenty of time!

What I've done thus far is compiled a spreadsheet of all the sites I want to see. I am primarily focused on churches, art, and ruins. DH doesn't care for any of it....the food will be his big thing.

We're staying at the Artemide Hotel (it had all the amenities we wanted and we're very satisfied with our choice).

So now, by biggest thing is figuring out how to best organize my days. Yes, I will be flexible, but I like to have a rough structure of my day.

So, here's what I'm thinking:

Friday:
- early arrival at hotel to drop off bags
- wander over to Campo for morning market
- Il Gesu (Campo)
- lunch and back to hotel to do the check-in; possible nap while city is on lunch
- guided walk through Navona (Pantheon, San Luigi, piazza navona, sant'agnese, santa maria della pace, santa maria sopra minerva, sant'agostino)
- dinner in Navona

Is this too ambitious for the first day? Too much in Navona? I tend to go through churches pretty quickly (not religious, so I don't stop to light candles, etc.). Looking at opening times, I should be OK.

Saturday:
open -
- this is the only day Palazzo Colonna is open (in the morning)

Sunday:
open
- this seems like a good day for the Via Appia since the cars aren't running. But only one catacomb is open (San Callisto). Is that enough?
- possibly do that in the morning and then spend the afternoon somewhere else...Spanish steps/Corso area? The only thing is that Palazzo Colonna is only open Saturday mornings.

Monday:
- scavi tour booked for 9:30 AM
- visit St. Peters (including Dome) after tour
- lunch either near Vatican OR walk over to trastevere
- afternoon in Trastevere (San Francesco, san pieto, santa maria). Anything else to see here?

Tuesday:
- planning on booking Vatican & Sistine tour (have to wait until 60 days out)
- lunch
- Castel Sant 'Angelo (open on Tuesday)
- what else is nearby? Would going to Borghese be too much?

Wednesday -
- day trip to Florence

Thursday:
- open

Friday:
- day trip to Orvieto

Saturday:
- open
- republicca/quirinale area? Have about 4-5 churches on my list
- esquilino area (4 churches on my list)
These areas seem close together.

Sunday:
- depart at 11 AM.


So here's my problem...I have Thursday open and not sure about Sat/Sun. I want to do the Colosseum area and split it into two days. So maybe move Via Appia to Thursday and take the bus? Put Colosseum to Sat/Sun.

What is the best way to split up the Colosseum area? I want to do forum, colosseum, the museum, imperial forums, and palatine hill.

How do things look to you???

Ideally, I'm trying to go strong in the mornings and relax in the afternoons/evenings. I just want time to just wander aimlessly and find good food.

I would appreciate any and all advice and tips.

Zerlina

The chapel with the Bernini statue at San Francesco a Ripa is closed indefinitely; they're afraid it will collapse.

sacc

The Palazzo Colonna is really well worth seeing, but it won't take even the entire morning. Perhaps that afternoon might be a good time to walk up the Galleria Borghese, stop for lunch along the way.

twiggers

Zerlina: oh no! Was there anything else worthwhile in that church?

Sacc: Thank you for the info re the Colonna. I figured it wouldn't take long either. I'm not sure which Saturday to do it...the first Sat. and combine with Borghese? Or the second Saturday and still do all the churches in republicca/quirinale/esquilino?

Viajero2

What time of the year is thsi trip? A day for the Colosseum, Roman Forum and environs (Bocca della Verita) is reasonable-- it is usually the first stop for tourists so I am surprised it has not even been listed and secured on your list (?) specially when you have listed ruins as one of your sightseeing preferences. I would move it up on your list as it is a somewhat physically demanding day.

Also, the Catacombs sightseeing is always an iffy event and this is why: 1) they are (by its nature) somewhat far from Centro Storico and a bit challenging to get to, 2) there are still an active archaeological site and often get closed down on a moment's notice, 3) the geological nature of the area makes it very suceptible to flooding and disturbances which often them to be close-dwon without much advance notice. Whenever in Rome, I have made it a habit to contact the Office of Tourism at the Termini Stattion for the latest on the Catacombs before heading out.

BTW, get a Roma Pass.

daveesl

You may wish to visit my website, which lays out a ton of free information. If you go to the google maps area you'll find 6 "tours" of Rome, with each location containing an MP3 file on that location. You can also go into the library area and download our free, you print, guidebook which has instructions on how to print it out and how to get it bound at most major office supply stores. There are also many free official Rome tourism brochures, maps and other information, such as our favorite bus routes. There is no charge for the site, nothing to sign up for, I just do it to help people get a handle on how to make the most of their time and money.

www.passagetoroma.com

dave

franco

Day by day:

Friday: the Navona program may be doable, though it wouldn't be for me, and I've never lit a candle in any church in my life. I need plenty of time for the art that's in the churches, though - you realize that you have one of this planet's most amazing architectures (the Pantheon), a Borromini building (S. Agnese in Agone), works by Michelangelo (S. Maria sopra Minerva), Raffaello (S. Maria della Pace) and Caravaggio (one in S. Agostino, three in S. Luigi dei Francesi)? But if one glance per Caravaggio is sufficient for you, then you can do it - distances are short enough.

Saturday: I would use this day for the Via Appia - if you're serious about seeing it, it definitely needs a whole day. It's a stretch of 16 kilometers, leading into the countryside out of Rome (take a bus for the way back into town); and it's pedestrianized anyway, every day (the cars can use just the first one or 1.5 kilometers, so I would prefer open catacombs over that car-free first kilometer of 16).

Sunday: if you're interested in the Via Appia, you could add the Parco della Caffarella walk, which is held every Sunday morning: an area adjoining Via Appia, with extremely interesting and otherwise inaccessible ancient monuments. This is the moment when to refer you to http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ightseeing.cfm, where you'll get many ideas for the more unusual sights of Rome, to fill up the time that you haven't planned so far. And here's a link for your husband, too (enjoy your meal!): http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...estaurants.cfm

Monday: Trastevere's best sight IMO is missing: S. Cecilia! You have to check, though, whether the Cavalli frescoes are open on Mondays (I seem to remember it's only Tuesday and Thursday, but do check) - Bernini's statue is great, as well, but the Cavalli frescoes are a must. (If my memory about opening hours is correct, you could make this your Thursday program - Thursday is open so far, anyway.)

Tuesday: I wouldn't want to visit Galleria Borghese the same day as the Musei Vaticani, definitely not. Crossing the river from Castel S. Angelo, there are plenty of interesting churches, beautiful lanes... alternatively, S. Spirito in Sassia is worth a visit; or you could try to arrange a visit at Palazzo dei Penitenzieri (details on my Roman sightseeing thread).

Wednesday: you know that you can't do Florence justice in just one day? It needs five full days... so perhaps that Wednesday could be better used in Rome? There sooooo much to see (and eat!) there.

Saturday: of course you should combine Palazzo Colonna and the Via della Repubblica/Esquilino areas - they're so close to each other! Nine churches, however, even though you don't tell which ones... same comments apply as for day 1!

ekc

A couple of additional suggestions:

Stop and see the Museo Dell’Ara Pacis, which contains the 9th century Altar of Peace. The alter is surrounded by 4 walls, all carved out of marble with amazing relief work. The alter is huge and contained in a contemporary glass building designed by Richard Meier. It is a quick and easy stop if you are in the neighborhood.

Eat at Roscioli, which is a salumeria and vineria on Via dei Giubbonari. We liked our lunch there so much we came back for dinner.

If your husband likes food, visit Katie Parla's website for some great restaurant recommendations. She was our guide for the Vatican and Pantheon but also has a great food website. www.parlafood.com.

Walk up to the Malta embassy for a great view through the "keyhole".

franco

I'm getting old... "Cavalli"!!? Cavallini, of course, I'm so sorry.

twiggers

Thank you SO much everyone.

We are going to be there in mid-May.

I realize Florence requires multiple days, but I don't envision a trip back to this area for years and if we do, it'll likely be another cruise (which only gives me a day anyhow). I really have no interest in the Tuscan countryside, so a focused day trip to Florence seems OK to me.

When it comes to the art, I'm not one of those people who needs 30 minutes per painting. The period of art represented most widely in Rome is not one of my favorites (I'm more of an Impressionist/Expressionist kind of person), but I do want to give each church/painting/sculpture more than a passing glance.

Viajero: I want to do the Colosseum right away, but concerns about cramming it into one day. I see people recommend taking 2 days, especially if wanting to see the museum. I thought about doing it on the first Saturday.

I am going to map out all these suggestions and look more into each one to add. I will post more specifics re each site as I pin down my itinerary.

This is so very helpful though, and why I love this site so much!

CUFFLNX

If Florence is a must, plan for it first and for an overnight if not two days. The train makes this very doable,straight from the airport.

I would favor Ostia Antica over the catacombs; you can get a catacomb experience in Rome at the Capuchin church near the Embassies.

Much of what you want to see is closer than you think, just plan by your days by the unique neighborhoods.

The Villa Borghese is a must, a very special place.

twiggers

Cuff: We already have reservations set for Rome and hubby has no interest in Florence. Therefore it's a day trip by myself.

I've heard good things about Ostia Antica, but wasn't sure how far out of the city it was. Not sure if I have the Capuchin church on my list (will check).

franco

The notion that the Capuchin crypt could be a substitute for the catacombs is, ahem, well I don't want to be harsh. Suffice it to say that the Capuchin crypt is mainly from the 17th and 18th centuries, and the catacombs are mainly from the 3rd and 4th centuries.

twiggers

Thanks for the clarification Franco!

twiggers

I'm slowly working on things, but not much progress. I have secured my Vatican museum + Sistine chapel tour date/time. I am hoping to make my Colosseum (underground + 3rd level) tour tomorrow.

Thus far, all I am finalizing is:

Friday: Easy stroll around Navona/Campo

Saturday: Hope to book Colosseum and spend entire day here seeing all the sights (Colosseum, Forum, Palantine Hill, Capital Hill + museum)

Sunday: open

Monday: Scavi tour + St. Peters in the AM. Trastevere in the PM.

Tuesday: Vatican museum + Sistine in the AM. Castel Sant Angelo after. Likely some evening time to explore.

Wednesday: open

Thursday: open

Friday: open

Saturday: open

Once I get the Colosseum tour finalized (most important piece of trip) then I can start filling in the rest of the days. I realized that I had a TON of churches and need to lighten the load. Planning on maybe designating some as "must see" and the others I'll try to fit in.

kybourbon

If you are planning to spend two days at the Colosseum/Forum/Palantine, I would put them together as your tickets will be good for two consecutive days. If using the Roma Pass, you will have a three day spread.

I didn't see the Capitoline Museums on your list.

ggreen

<i>I'm more of an Impressionist/Expressionist kind of person</i>

Me too, but I found the Borghese galleries to be amazing! Do note you have to book in advance, and they are VERY strict about both the amount of time alloted (they kick everyone out between timings) and checking all your personal items in before you enter the galleries - make sure to get there enough in advance of your reservation to pick up your tickets and check your things before entering.

Our reservations for the Borghese were for early morning, and we lunched at a cafe in Piazza del Popolo afterwards, with plenty of time in the afternoon for strolling past the Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain, or taking the subway from the piazza to another part of the city...

twiggers

ky: I am going to just do the COlosseum area in one day, including the Capitoline Museum. I'm trying to book tickets for the underground/3rd level and running into problems. Will be trying again later today.

ggreen: Thank you! I am definitely going to book it...perhaps I'll be swept away by the wonders of Baroque and Rennaisance!

ggreen

twiggers, I should have added that I'm one for whom Versailles has never particularly appealed. I think the difference with the Borghese galleries was that the smaller scale of the building, while still palatial, brought the over-the-top decor down to a more human scale. Plus, by the time of our visit, we'd already been steeped in baroque art for the prior week of our trip, so it was part of a pattern rather than an anomaly!

I loved the early Bernini of Apollo and Daphne - amazing what he got that marble to do! - and the ceiling towards the end with mischievous satyrs peering down at the goings-on below. Unfortunately we didn't pace ourselves very well and didn't have time for more than a quick peek at the painting galleries on the upper floor... but by that point we were pretty saturated and it was a good time to go!

FWIW, we took an afternoon to see the Palantine Hill, Forum and Colosseum, in that order. In the morning, we went to San Pietro in Vincoli to see Michelangelo's Moses, so we had a nice mix of time periods in one day.

We didn't have time on this trip, but many years ago I had the opportunity to visit the Protestant Cemetery where Keats and Shelley are buried. If you're looking for options to add to your itinerary, do look into it - I remember it as a beautiful, quiet place to wander...

twiggers

ggreen: Thank you so much for sharing your experiences!

I'm unable to get a confirmation for the underground Colosseum (have to call back 3/31). So, right now I am putting this day as a Saturday and if it changes then I'll just swap.

Wondering if I should add St. Peter's in Chains before the Colosseum? Or after? Or save it for another day? Am I missing anything around the Colosseum?

So, here is updated itinerary, with more details for Saturday:

Friday: Easy stroll around Navona/Campo (will update later with more detail)

Saturday (lunch on Capital Hill? Or somewhere else?):

Colosseum
Arch of Constantine
Roman Forum
Palantine Hill
Capital Hill
Capitoline Museum
Santa Maria in Aracoeli

Trajan's Column
Piazza Venezia
Victor Emmanuel
Bocca della Verita
Mamertine Prison

Sunday: open

Monday:
Scavi tour (booked for 9:30 AM)
St. Peters Basilica (mps tour + climb to top of dome)
Wander over to Trastevere (more details needed)

Tuesday:
Vatican museum + Sistine (booked for 10:15)
Castel Sant Angelo (lunch nearby? or at Vatican?)
----need evening plan...maybe a nighttime Rome walk----

Wednesday: open

Thursday: open

Friday: open

Saturday: open