reedpaints TRIP REPORT Pt 1
Nov 9th, 2004, 05:06 PM
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reedpaints TRIP REPORT Pt 1
ITALY TRIP REPORT
Oct 5-Nov 1 SFO-ROME-SFO
Rome, Spoleto, Florence, Siena, San G, Venice, Rome
3 travel partners
Total cost per person including airl, meals, tranport, accommodations, tours, etc just about $2,800
Luggage - 1 carryon and 1 big purse
Celeb sightings ? Nicholas Cage
This was my first trip to Italy.
Important information. Foodies ? you know who you are ? please know that A) we are NOT foodies and B) we cut most of our costs by eating cheaply throughout our entire trip. Cheap means things like drinking coffee standing up, eating a whole lot of sandwiches and pizza, visiting Cafe Brek (and similar cafeteria-style eateries). We splurged on nice restaurant meals only a few times and even our splurges would probably be considered budget by some.
PART I ROME
Smooth sailing from SFO to ROME. Driver (39 euros) was set up by our apartment manager Tim Pearson of Real Rome. The apartment was in Campo di Fiori and it was perfectly located, absolutely clean and everything we were looking for (770 for 7 days/3 people). My ?magic moment? had to be rounding the corner and coming upon the Panthenon without knowing it was coming up. I can?t even describe it and this particular spot ended up becoming my favorite even after a month in Italy. The building just simply strikes me speechless. The first day we really just got our bearings by walking and walking and walking. Adrenalin helped ease the jet lag and one after another I saw sites that I have only dreampt about. It was surreal to finally be there.
HEAR ME... DO NOT WORRY ABOUT WHAT YOU WEAR. Anything goes. I spent months worrying about what I would take and when I got there I was almost relieved to see that there seemed to be no hard fast rules. Obviously we weren?t going to fancy restaurants and if that had been the case I?m sure I would feel a little differently. However, for our ?budget? Italian vacation, my casual clothing was just fine. I didn?t stand out and most of the time I felt like I fit right in. I?ve always collected scarves (a few of which I took) and they came in handy. Italians DO wear tennis shoes but they are COOL dark tennis shoes. I?m not even sure I would call them tennis shoes! If I saw one thing that made me cringe it was WHITE WHITE tennies on hoards of tourists. Other cringe-worthy things: fishing caps, fishing vests and too many ball caps.
Over the following two days we had an ancient rome tour with Scala Reale (definitely worth the cost and a dreamy looking green-eyed tour guide to boot), the Scavi tour at the vatican (we lucked out with a good guide and it was truly a ?must not miss,?) and the tour that ended up being the best of the entire trip ? the Vatican art tour with a guide named Inga. The five hours she spent with us sharing the art she obviously loved and cherished was a true highlight and if I ever get back to Rome I will definitely hire this woman again. We had only 4 people on our tour and it was tailored for people with a little art history background and a pretty good knowledge of art in general. I have to say, however, that even if I had had absolutely no idea about anything to do with art, her tour would have made me run out and buy brushes. She was simply the best, hands down.
Unfortunatly the only downer of my time in Rome was the fact that I had a horrible cold. I?m sure ? looking back on it ? it colored some of the trip and that does make me sad. Feeling foggy and sick at the Vatican is not exactly fun. Feeling foggy and sick in Rome at all, is not a good thing! I wanted to enjoy and remember every single, lovely moment in all it?s glory.
Don?t be afraid to take a taxi. Excluding the fact that were traveling with the travel partner from hell (please see my ?Etiquette Update? post from earlier this week), taxis were quick, efficient and cheap to get around with when there was more than one person riding. While we did walk for the most part (clocking in over 300 miles of walking over the month by the way!), we did make use of the taxi?s.
While our original itinerary went awry (of course), we did manage to see pretty much everything we had intended including all of the churches I had marked down, smaller sites I wanted to get to the museums I chose in Rome. It wasn?t a ?slow? trip but I never really felt rushed, either. A week in the city was perfect and I think each one of us really felt as if we got to know it. In fact, when we returned from Venice at the end of the month to catch our flight home, it felt like Rome was old home week. I felt like I knew my way around. It felt mighty comfortable like an old sweater.
I went back to the Vatican towards the end of my stay to climb the dome. It was worth every second. What a spectacular view. What a spectacular place. Breathtaking.
I may be in the minority here, but I also loved the hop- on off red bus. I?ve read some disparaging remarks about the audio (and yes, it?s not great), but I loved riding that bus around the night we did it. I still think of that night rather fondly. And also, I firmly believe that it can?t be beat to help one get their bearings in a new city. So don?t be afraid of the big RED BUS! Make up your own mind about it...
On our last evening we decided to eat at one of the tourist traps by the Panthenon (I told you I couldn?t get enough!). While I expected bad food, i was convinced the view would make up for it. Imagine my surprise when we actually got a pretty darn good meal with wine, etc. for 39 euros for two. We must have sat there for 3 hours or more just taking it all in. While it may not be the choice for a die-hard foodie, it has become a fond memory for me. Perfect ending to a perfect week.
Memories of ROME IN A NUTSHELL
Cute old man at the Bar Farnese. He served me coffee every morning, and he was always armed with a huge smile for his American traveler. I quickly learned how to order coffee in Italian and he taught me a new word every morning.
The little old lady in the Campo di Fiori market who showed me how to buy the fruit and what to ask for and then took my hand to lead me all around the market.
Dreamy long-haired Italian guy behind the counter of one of the gelato shops in the same area. Each day his gelatos for me got progressively more complicated. By the end of the week he was serving me mixes and cookies and whip cream and I was in heaven.
Trying and not succeeding in finding Nero?s House!! HElP! We looked for two hours and then finally gave up.
Walking around for a LONG time trying to locate the Galleria Doria Pamphli (sp?) and then being spectacularly happy that we did. What a beautiful place to tour.
Getting lost a LOT.
Learning to cross streets between nuns and locals. GREAT ADVICE fodorites!
Chatting with the taxi drivers
Church bells ringing everywhere
Part II of ITALY report (Spoleto, Florence) to be cont...
Oct 5-Nov 1 SFO-ROME-SFO
Rome, Spoleto, Florence, Siena, San G, Venice, Rome
3 travel partners
Total cost per person including airl, meals, tranport, accommodations, tours, etc just about $2,800
Luggage - 1 carryon and 1 big purse
Celeb sightings ? Nicholas Cage
This was my first trip to Italy.
Important information. Foodies ? you know who you are ? please know that A) we are NOT foodies and B) we cut most of our costs by eating cheaply throughout our entire trip. Cheap means things like drinking coffee standing up, eating a whole lot of sandwiches and pizza, visiting Cafe Brek (and similar cafeteria-style eateries). We splurged on nice restaurant meals only a few times and even our splurges would probably be considered budget by some.
PART I ROME
Smooth sailing from SFO to ROME. Driver (39 euros) was set up by our apartment manager Tim Pearson of Real Rome. The apartment was in Campo di Fiori and it was perfectly located, absolutely clean and everything we were looking for (770 for 7 days/3 people). My ?magic moment? had to be rounding the corner and coming upon the Panthenon without knowing it was coming up. I can?t even describe it and this particular spot ended up becoming my favorite even after a month in Italy. The building just simply strikes me speechless. The first day we really just got our bearings by walking and walking and walking. Adrenalin helped ease the jet lag and one after another I saw sites that I have only dreampt about. It was surreal to finally be there.
HEAR ME... DO NOT WORRY ABOUT WHAT YOU WEAR. Anything goes. I spent months worrying about what I would take and when I got there I was almost relieved to see that there seemed to be no hard fast rules. Obviously we weren?t going to fancy restaurants and if that had been the case I?m sure I would feel a little differently. However, for our ?budget? Italian vacation, my casual clothing was just fine. I didn?t stand out and most of the time I felt like I fit right in. I?ve always collected scarves (a few of which I took) and they came in handy. Italians DO wear tennis shoes but they are COOL dark tennis shoes. I?m not even sure I would call them tennis shoes! If I saw one thing that made me cringe it was WHITE WHITE tennies on hoards of tourists. Other cringe-worthy things: fishing caps, fishing vests and too many ball caps.
Over the following two days we had an ancient rome tour with Scala Reale (definitely worth the cost and a dreamy looking green-eyed tour guide to boot), the Scavi tour at the vatican (we lucked out with a good guide and it was truly a ?must not miss,?) and the tour that ended up being the best of the entire trip ? the Vatican art tour with a guide named Inga. The five hours she spent with us sharing the art she obviously loved and cherished was a true highlight and if I ever get back to Rome I will definitely hire this woman again. We had only 4 people on our tour and it was tailored for people with a little art history background and a pretty good knowledge of art in general. I have to say, however, that even if I had had absolutely no idea about anything to do with art, her tour would have made me run out and buy brushes. She was simply the best, hands down.
Unfortunatly the only downer of my time in Rome was the fact that I had a horrible cold. I?m sure ? looking back on it ? it colored some of the trip and that does make me sad. Feeling foggy and sick at the Vatican is not exactly fun. Feeling foggy and sick in Rome at all, is not a good thing! I wanted to enjoy and remember every single, lovely moment in all it?s glory.
Don?t be afraid to take a taxi. Excluding the fact that were traveling with the travel partner from hell (please see my ?Etiquette Update? post from earlier this week), taxis were quick, efficient and cheap to get around with when there was more than one person riding. While we did walk for the most part (clocking in over 300 miles of walking over the month by the way!), we did make use of the taxi?s.
While our original itinerary went awry (of course), we did manage to see pretty much everything we had intended including all of the churches I had marked down, smaller sites I wanted to get to the museums I chose in Rome. It wasn?t a ?slow? trip but I never really felt rushed, either. A week in the city was perfect and I think each one of us really felt as if we got to know it. In fact, when we returned from Venice at the end of the month to catch our flight home, it felt like Rome was old home week. I felt like I knew my way around. It felt mighty comfortable like an old sweater.
I went back to the Vatican towards the end of my stay to climb the dome. It was worth every second. What a spectacular view. What a spectacular place. Breathtaking.
I may be in the minority here, but I also loved the hop- on off red bus. I?ve read some disparaging remarks about the audio (and yes, it?s not great), but I loved riding that bus around the night we did it. I still think of that night rather fondly. And also, I firmly believe that it can?t be beat to help one get their bearings in a new city. So don?t be afraid of the big RED BUS! Make up your own mind about it...
On our last evening we decided to eat at one of the tourist traps by the Panthenon (I told you I couldn?t get enough!). While I expected bad food, i was convinced the view would make up for it. Imagine my surprise when we actually got a pretty darn good meal with wine, etc. for 39 euros for two. We must have sat there for 3 hours or more just taking it all in. While it may not be the choice for a die-hard foodie, it has become a fond memory for me. Perfect ending to a perfect week.
Memories of ROME IN A NUTSHELL
Cute old man at the Bar Farnese. He served me coffee every morning, and he was always armed with a huge smile for his American traveler. I quickly learned how to order coffee in Italian and he taught me a new word every morning.
The little old lady in the Campo di Fiori market who showed me how to buy the fruit and what to ask for and then took my hand to lead me all around the market.
Dreamy long-haired Italian guy behind the counter of one of the gelato shops in the same area. Each day his gelatos for me got progressively more complicated. By the end of the week he was serving me mixes and cookies and whip cream and I was in heaven.
Trying and not succeeding in finding Nero?s House!! HElP! We looked for two hours and then finally gave up.
Walking around for a LONG time trying to locate the Galleria Doria Pamphli (sp?) and then being spectacularly happy that we did. What a beautiful place to tour.
Getting lost a LOT.
Learning to cross streets between nuns and locals. GREAT ADVICE fodorites!
Chatting with the taxi drivers
Church bells ringing everywhere
Part II of ITALY report (Spoleto, Florence) to be cont...
Nov 9th, 2004, 05:35 PM
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reedpaints,
Wonderful report on Rome! I was feeling your awe of seeing the Pantheon for the first time, I love it when that happens too.
Sounds like we could have been in Rome at the same time too. I was there 9/30 to 10/12.
Awww and I know of that "Cute old man at the Bar Farnese" he is very sweet indeed. Beautiful that you learned a new word every morning.
This past trip for me, in front of St. Peter's there was a sweet older man selling rosaries and with his help I finally, finally learned how to pronounce the pasta dish amatriciana! I also learned a new curse word ; )- but not from him!
Thanks for bringing back to Rome for a moment - but I'm never that far away.
Best, Eileen
Wonderful report on Rome! I was feeling your awe of seeing the Pantheon for the first time, I love it when that happens too.
Sounds like we could have been in Rome at the same time too. I was there 9/30 to 10/12.
Awww and I know of that "Cute old man at the Bar Farnese" he is very sweet indeed. Beautiful that you learned a new word every morning.
This past trip for me, in front of St. Peter's there was a sweet older man selling rosaries and with his help I finally, finally learned how to pronounce the pasta dish amatriciana! I also learned a new curse word ; )- but not from him!
Thanks for bringing back to Rome for a moment - but I'm never that far away.
Best, Eileen
Nov 9th, 2004, 06:18 PM
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What a great report. I read it and feel like I'm following you around Rome. I thought Rome was very exciting and vibrant and the traffic! wow. You might have tried crossing the streets with nuns and locals; my hub and I stuck to the pregnant women, hedging our bets that we wouldn't get mowed down. 
Nov 9th, 2004, 06:52 PM
#6
We also spent a great deal of time looking for Nero's house. We walked in circles for what had to be miles, we asked some tour bus drivers and showed them the map and they had no clue. We finally gave up and as we were leaving we found it. We didn't have reservations so we didn't get to go in but we know where it is!
Great report - informative and fun to read. Wow, 300 miles in a month - how far did your feet think you walked!? Looking forward to reading more of your report.
Great report - informative and fun to read. Wow, 300 miles in a month - how far did your feet think you walked!? Looking forward to reading more of your report.
Nov 10th, 2004, 09:29 AM
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Thanks for sharing.
To find Nero's house cross the street from the coliseum (near it's entrance).There will be a park like yard with a gate and a long driveway.Follow the driveway to the entrance.
$2,800 per for almost a month is quite an accomplishment. I think my wife spent that on shoes alone!
Just kidding, sort of.
To find Nero's house cross the street from the coliseum (near it's entrance).There will be a park like yard with a gate and a long driveway.Follow the driveway to the entrance.
$2,800 per for almost a month is quite an accomplishment. I think my wife spent that on shoes alone!
Just kidding, sort of.
