Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Europe
Reload this Page >

Reeder Italy TRip Report Number Nine

Search

Reeder Italy TRip Report Number Nine

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 25th, 2004, 05:59 AM
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 383
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Reeder Italy TRip Report Number Nine

Leaving Suisi and Hotel Swaztzer Adler we are going to work our way towards Venice. Where has the time gone we ask ourselves? How could we already be on the last leg of this trip!! But last leg it is and it will be to Venice where we have never been before. We are really looking forward to seeing this beautiful city.

Enroute we stop basically to shop in Bolzano/Bozen. We are loooking for a cooperative of wood sculptors from this region that Patrizia told us about. Bolzan is a charming little city for sure. We had a hard time finding this coop near Walther Piazza and I found little of interest. I did come away with a carved angel ornament for my Christmas Tree collection. We also found the shop with special ceramics that I had admired decorating our hotel.. I can't think of the name--perhaps Fund? or something like that. Unique pieces but nothing that knocked me over so we didn't buy anything. We parked in underground parking under Walther--so convenient. We then hit the autostrada and head for Trentino where the Council of Trent convened. We got very lost here and basically saw nothing and got back on the autostrada. Again we tried a stop in Verona--got a glimpse of the Plaza Bra but found parking impossible so we bailed out of there too. I think (no I know) we are both overtired at this point and may need to rest up for Venice experience.

I had intended we might stop in Vicenza but given our luck today abandon that idea. We head to our next stop a B&B (agriturismo) in Levada. It is called Gargan.

This place is about 30 km from Venice. In my planning I thought a night here and good rest with early start tomorrow to drop off car and get into Venice early would make sense. This place is north of Padua -they call it Padova)

It is STARKLY different to our lodgings of last night. It is an old house with very little English spoken. Once again we are the only guests. Our room is large overlooking the gardens--brick floor, antique furnishings.

Although there was a gate at the entrance we had to buzz in--it is not as fancy as it sounds. I was writng this while John naps. It is rainy and damp outside (as it will be for the next few days) and it is very chilly in this house.

I am sitting in a little room she directed me to which serves both as breakfast (in our case dinner ) room and sitting area. She offers me a glass of wine which I happily accept. I don't see any fireplaces around. Luckily my husband is like a furnace at night and I suspect that may come in handy tonight?!

Dinner isn't until eight and frankly I don't know what to do with myself except write. I can't drive the car? Where would I go anyway? Would love to email the kids who are back now from their trip to Dominican Republic. Maybe she will let me use their computer?? I doubt it.

Overallll impressions so far as I seemed to have the time right then. John and I have seen and done a lot--from the hills and medieval towns of Umbria, to the vineyards and olive orchards of Tuscany, to the sun and sea at Cinque Terre, to the beautiful lake and mountain backdrop of Lake Como. to the mountains and people of Tyrol Sud, and now just outside Venice and yet another sea! This trip may be too jam packed for most people but it worked for us quite well.

We did not come for a rest but to see and enjoy new places and experiences. It has been an adventure for us from start to finish.

Doing my research for this trip, starting months back, I had my husband's likes in mind and tried to get him to the places he would most enjoy. Each destination offered us something new and different. We have gained so much from the people we met and places we have seen.

My husband woke from his long nap (I know why didn't I nap in my exhausted state? I just don't "nap" that well.) We ventured out in what is now pouring rain to find an internet shop to check in with the kids. We soon realized we were in the middle of nowhere. We finally found a "biblioteca" and sent a free email. We then got so lost you wouldn't believe. Fortunately I remembered the name of the town we were staying at as we left with no books directions etc.

Since it was just "us"-- no need to dress up for dinner. Antonia (I now know her name) has set up a small table for us. She served a veggie quiche, then meat stuffed ravioli with meat sauce, thin sliced pork with zucchini and green beans. Dessert was ice cream with cocoa and shredded chocolate. We refused coffee and grappa but she INSISTED bringing out a tray full of homemade grappa saying "we would sleep better" We did so and ultimately did so. Antonia is very sweet and trying so hard to make us comfortable as her only guests. I am sure that having a couple of rooms filled in general makes it easier on the hosts as hopefully there will be conversation amongst the couples.

In any event we are far more comfortable here at this point after dinner. Could it have been the various grappa we sampled? I don't think so. Antonia is very sweet and trying so hard to communicate with us.

Antonia's son who runs the farm came in to talk with us after dinner. He had preety good English and we had an interesting conversation with him.

Our night was quiet and comfortable (and our room was warm!!) and we awoke to church bells again today. Breakfast was at the same little table and quite generous. A bowl of assorted fresh fruit, cereals, yogurts, baked cake, juice etc. Our stay here including wines and grappa was 110 Euros.

I found Antonia warm and charming. This place would be a good choice for one purpose--an inexpensive restful stay and getting an early start in Venice the next day etc.

Our trip to Venice was only 30 km but a slow drive in the morning commute. Leaving our car at Piazzelle Roma was weird as we couldn't find the car rental drop place and ended up just parking car outside the office on the busy street.(as directed) We crossed the street and bought a one day pass for the Vaporetto and made our way down the Grand Canal for the very first time!! We are jammed into this vaporetto with all our luggage but are we excited!

Venice and our impressions in what I hope will be the last report. H

Reeder is offline  
Old Apr 25th, 2004, 10:50 AM
  #2  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 398
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
We stayed at the same B and B recommended by Karen Brown- Gargan in Levada several years ago. We liked it very much. The homemade pasta , fresh fruits and cakes were delicious. However, We had dinner in a large room with a fire in the fireplace. Perhaps they only use the large dining room when there are more guests.
Sally is offline  
Old Apr 25th, 2004, 11:13 AM
  #3  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 383
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Sally:
Perhaps this is as you say. But I think since you were there two grandchildren have arrived so I think they have taken over some space. On other side of the house from where dining areas are I saw a LOT of toys! So glad you enjoyed Gargan and I just know it would be different with more guest. Having said that Antonia could not have been more gracious and the value is certainly there. H
Reeder is offline  
Old Apr 25th, 2004, 03:29 PM
  #4  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 398
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Actually, there were little children living there when we visited. The son and his wife both spoke good English. Also the son let us use his computer to check our email and send emails to our children.

What we really enjoyed was watching Antonia make hommade pasta- roll it out and cut it into strips to dry before cooking it.

We also liked walking around the large yard.

There was a lot of traffic in the area going to Venice.
Sally is offline  
Old Apr 25th, 2004, 04:48 PM
  #5  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 383
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Sally
I think she said she "used to" run a restaurant out of the house but it got too much. Her kitchen surely looked professional but we didn't see much going on there. Family had their dinner before our dinner hour. In better weather (and it was miserable) we might have enjoyed the yard more etc. Don't get me wrong I would recommend people stay there. Room was fine and spacious--Antonia was sweet and the price was very reasonable. I plan to say the same to Karen Brown folks when I next contact them. H
Reeder is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Original Poster
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rileypenny
United States
5
Jun 21st, 2008 03:09 AM
Reeder
Europe
21
Apr 19th, 2004 02:11 PM
Amy
Europe
61
May 19th, 2003 04:00 PM
tina
United States
4
Jan 6th, 2003 05:25 PM
Lila
United States
10
Nov 4th, 2002 02:03 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On



Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -