By popular demand (actually I have heard back from two persons), here is the second part of our gripping vacation saga. The first part is posted in the Europe general section. All parts can be found at: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/provence<BR><BR>Sunday, August 26th, 2001<BR><BR>After a good breakfast of croissants, rolls, bread with jam and coffee we decided to spend the day at our B & B. The original building had been a silk weaving mill back in the 19th century. This was a very labour intensive process. As evidence of this a huge farmhouse just across the ravine once housed some 13 families the members of which worked in the mill. Silk worms had been imported from China and were fed mulberry bush leaves. As a result of a disease the mulberry trees died and that, combined with competition from the Far East, wiped out one of the few industries of the Ardeche. It has not really recovered since that time and today remains one of the least prosperous parts of France.<BR><BR>The grounds of the Moulinage are a gardener’s delight. It is evident that the Dutch owners really take great care. <BR><BR>Our B & B is in an ideal location. The air is fresh, the location tranquil and the babbling (is there any other kind?) brook just outside our window is great for lulling one to sleep. As well one could hear the bells on the sheep as they foraged on the steep hills opposite. The rooms are all very comfortable, neat, clean and tidy.<BR><BR>Before we came I had planned all sorts of day trips but given the terrain we changed plans and opted just to stay put. Our excitement for the day was watching three Canadaair water bombers being directed by a helicopter fighting a forest fire. While the fire was not far away, we could not see it because of the many deep valleys. The planes scooped water from the Rhone some 30-40 kms distant. <BR><BR>...to be continued

Monday, August 27th, 2001<BR><BR>Dinner last night was at the Relais de Sully in the small village of Gluiras about 15km North. We ate out on the terrace overlooking the village square. There were quite a few people having dinner. Our first real French meal was: salade de truit, terrine de chevre followed by salmon and lapin (rabbit), cheese tray and a wonderful chestnut, honey and custard sauce desert. Chestnuts were a staple source of diet in these parts. It was ground into flour and used to feed both people and animals.<BR><BR>The owners at our B&B were really into hiking and suggested a trip to see a waterfall near Le Cheylard to the NW. Ann decided to stay put while I set off to drive to the falls area and do some grocery shopping. Our plan was to eat out once a day and then have a picnic lunch or dinner. This arrangement proved to work well.<BR><BR>It took 3 hours for me to drive the D102 to Albon then direction Mezihac and then the along the D204 (really not more than a paved path) to Le Cheylard. Spectacular hairpin turns, views of meadows and small hamlets. <BR><BR>As is often the case in France when in the middle of nowhere there would be a small discreet sign pointing to the next Auberge or restaurant. On top of one of the hills, or col, was a memorial to an 18-year-old Frenchman killed by the Germans in 1944. It was well tended with fresh flowers. On the way down the grade was marked as being 12% --- usually the most was 6%. These roads, while all are paved and well maintained, have put paid to any notion of exploring. Ours was a get-to-and-stay-put destination.<BR><BR>Le Cheynard is quite a large town for this area. Shopped at the supermarket but no bread anywhere as the shops closed around noon on Mondays. Closed shops on different days can drive a North American nuts. I never did find the Falls much less take the hike to it. Many of these small villages and hamlets are served by mobile merchants who sell meat, bread and other goodies. I stopped and asked one where I could get bread and he gave me a list of the days in that area but not today!<BR>In the end we got some bread from the B & B owner.<BR><BR>After lunch we went out to explore a nearby village called St. Pierreville. At the chestnut museum we bought some chestnut puree --- delicious on vanilla ice cream. <BR><BR>…. To be continued<BR>

Tuesday, August 28, 2001<BR><BR>We left in good time and headed South to our next B & B: Mas Vacquieres.<BR><BR>Vacquieres, for the uninformed and knowledge starved, is the Vacquieres part of two small hamlets aptly called Saint Just et Vacquieres. The former consists of a church and a Bureau de Poste and the latter boasts a badly decaying chateau and a group of nearby houses in which the peasants once lived to support the folks who lived in the chateau. The chateau is not lived in, except for pigeons. It is in need of drastic repair. The only part in reasonable shape is the roof. According to the law, the roof must be kept in repair or the property can’t be put up for sale. But the property can’t be sold because the 20 or so shareholding heirs can’t agree on what to do. Neat what and very French!<BR><BR>The Mas Vacquieres, our home for the next five days, is a complex of several joined structures that the previous owners had spent a fortune modernizing. The interiors are bright with lots of decorative furniture and art. Gorgeous stone and tile floors. Our room was half below grade level because it was built into the side of a hill on which stands the aforementioned chateau. The property had a swimming pool that was built into an old stable without a roof. Just magnificent in concept and execution ---the pool that is.<BR><BR>The owners, a young Dutch couple, had recently purchased the property. It being the end of season, and the wife being tired, it was agreed (we had no choice) that evening meals would not be provided. Some B & Bs provide table de hote if arrangements are made in advance. Instead, reservations were made for us to eat at an auberge just up the road. <BR><BR>This unassuming, but friendly establishment, called Le St.-Just served some of the best meals we had. From our bills I see we had truite, melon to die for, filets de sole, and “le menu” specials which I can’t recall. Don’t ask just eat is our motto. After having had two dinners at Le St.- Just, I asked the owner if they ever served tartes aux figues (fig tart) since the fruit was in season. We had had this dessert some years back in another part of Provence. He agreed to make for our third night back and it was great. <BR>... To be continued<BR><BR>

Wednesday, August 29, 2001<BR><BR>Breakfasts were taken on a small balcony overlooking the valley. Pictures of same and other places mentioned shown by appointment only or by visit to my personal office gallery.<BR><BR>It was on this balcony, which was made of a honey coloured stone, that I made a vow. Wait for it!<BR><BR>I vowed to build a small stone wall around our herb garden to remind us of Provence. This is my Spring 2002 project. Donations of honey coloured stones most appreciated. Receipts on demand.<BR><BR>On Wednesday morning we drove to St. Victor La Coste. This is the village where I spent two weeks some years ago doing volunteer work building stone walls. It is also where the McCarthy’s from Toronto have a summer home. They are friends and we have several of his paintings from France and elsewhere. <BR><BR>While in St. Victor I revisited the local pissotiere (public urinals) located below the Marie (municipal offices). Since I had used this facility years ago, the plumbing had been repaired somewhat in that when you flushed the water didn’t squirt you in the eye. (The leak was at eye level.) Imagine the Saturday night hilarity at the adjacent bar when the etrangers use the facilities! French bathrooms are of two types: the chic, ultra modern, sanitary, automated variety or not. This was the not kind.<BR><BR>For lunch (more food descriptions) we purchased jambon sec and pate. (Sorry but I have not adjusted the keyboard for the proper accents.) Miracle of miracles the small grocery store had bread for that day only because the bakery was closed on Wednesday’s. Makes sense to me.<BR><BR> … next the Gorges de Ardeche and Uzes<BR><BR>

The saga continues:<BR><BR>Thursday, August 30, 2001<BR><BR>The weather continues sunny and warm during the day and cool at nights. Ideal. I’m on my way to the Gorges d'Ardeche after Ann decided to remain at the B & B and rest and read for the day.<BR><BR>The plan is to do a circle route around the Gorges d’Ardeche: NE then W and then South back to base. <BR><BR>First task is to buy diesel fuel which is called gazol in France. Second task is to determine how to open the fuel tank cover. After enquiring from the folks in the growing cue behind me and receiving the traditional Gallic shrugs, I finally found the release neatly tucked away by the emergency brake. Tip: read the manual, if only looking at the pictures, before you run out of fuel. <BR><BR>The Gorges is the French version of the Grand Canyon. Great fun to drive around and even greater fun I imagine to kayak on. There were lots of folks doing just that as well as swimming, rock climbing, snuggling and picnicking. There were so many kayaks on the river that it appeared to be the highway 401(Toronto) during rush hour. Lots of grottes (caves) in the area but I did not visit any. At Vallon Pont d’Arc (natural stone bridge) at the headwaters of the Gorges, I made a detour to visit a village called La Bastide de Virac. The village had all newly paved roads, vineyards and naturally a chateau. <BR><BR>Lunch was on the terrace overlooking the vineyards at La Petite Auberge. The menu at 95FF, about $24 CDN had an appetizer of sausage filled patties, daub de boef (braised beef) in a terrific sauce with roasted potatoes, spinach and braised tomatoes. Dessert was a fromage blanc. All this and ½ bottle of Cotes de Rhone just hit the spot. All went well until I discovered that I had broken off part of a tooth. Fortunately, with a bit of dental wax from the local pharmacy to fill the gap I managed until we got home.<BR><BR>After an afternoon snooze at the B & B we were off to dinner again. Note: oddly enough neither of us gained any weight over the two weeks.<BR>...To be continued

Friday, August 31, 2001<BR><BR>The friendly Aussies who had been staying at the same place were off to Burgundy. We were off to Uzes. <BR><BR>Uzes is a prosperous town about 30 km to the East. It had been a Duchy. The town is crowded but well worth the visit. We stopped at several shops to buy clothes for Andrea’s (my daughter) forthcoming baby. Store clerks and shoppers all get into the act of congratulating us on about to be grandparents. Total strangers go all mushy over the thought. Do they like children or what? Clothes for children are as chic and fashionable as they are for adults!<BR><BR>Checked out the antique shops for tassels (Ann has a thing about tassels) but didn’t find any. Bought a wire basket. These shops even in the smallest towns have accessories and furnishings of extraordinary good design and taste. It is one of our real pleasures to see the displays and chat with the store owners. <BR><BR>Lunch was omelets at a sidewalk restaurant. Not fancy, but hey dinner is only hours away! After lunch visited the village of Vezenobres: narrow streets great clock tower. See home office walls for details.<BR><BR>...more to come<BR>

It gets better.<BR><BR>Saturday, Sept. 1, 2001<BR><BR>In the morning we drove to nearby St. Quentin la Poterie. We had both been to this village before. The time before everything had been closed. Now shops were partly open it being close to noon on Saturday. This village has been the source for making all kinds of large and small pots, vases and decorative objects d’art some of it real far out stuff. Parts of St. Quentin look as if the Hippies of the 60’s are alive and well and living in a time warp there. <BR><BR>From St. Quentin we drove North to the medieval village of Lussan. After waiting for the sun to come out I took some great pictures of the village and an iron grill work clock tower. This type of construction is common in Provence. The grillwork stands up better than stone to the high wind of the Mistral. <BR><BR>The Mistral, which blows down the Rhone valley is like no other wind. The locals express great apprehension when it arrives. It affects people’s moods. It certainly affected the design of farmhouses in that no farmhouse has doors which open directly to the North. Shrubs and cypress trees are also planted along the North side of properties as wind breaks.<BR><BR>Tomorrow we are off to our third B & B called Les Trois Sources just East of Avignon. Les Trois Sources is in the shadow of an exquisite little hill village called Bonnieux. This is Peter Mayle country: A Year in Provence and Encore Provence.<BR>...To be continued<BR>

Sunday, Sept. 2, 2001<BR><BR>Since it was Sunday we took the opportunity on route to revisit L’Isle Sur La Sorgues. Everyone in this part of the world had the same idea. Parking was almost a km away from the flea market, regular market and antique shops. The town is antique heaven. There must be at least 50 regular antique and decorating shops mostly of the upscale variety.<BR><BR>Over a basic sidewalk type restaurant meal (variety of hot veggie and pate selections) the folks were treated to the singing of old songs by a man and woman. For accompaniment he had an organ grinding type instrument that used punched paper to activate the notes. Even though we understood about a tenth of his patois we contributed generously when the hat was passed. He could really work the crowd. Some of the patrons invited him to have a drink as well. I’m sure we had seen this character there previously.<BR><BR>Late in the afternoon Ann found a copper mould which the dealer had marked down especially for us…an end of day special. Yes and pigs can fly!<BR><BR>Our digs at Les Trois Sources were at the top of 30 stone spiral steps in a 15th century fortified farmhouse. Great view of Bonnieux especially magical at night when the church at the top and the village were lit. Our room was very clean and felt slightly monastic. <BR><BR>After a short snooze we were off to nearby Lacoste for dinner. Lacoste’s claim to fame is that the infamous Marquis de Sade lived in the castle there. The castle was, I believe, owned by the Chicago Art School but has recently been purchased by one of the Paris fashion moguls. Lacoste was closed tight except for a bar and a restaurant that was barely visible from the road. On arriving at the patio, we shared a table with a roving cat on the parapet. For dinner we had hot goat’s cheese salad, excellent pasta, lamb curry and chocolate cake. <BR><BR>For our view there was a full harvest moon over Bonnieux. <BR>

Monday, Sept. 3, 2001<BR><BR>After a modest breakfast of croissants, two kinds of bread, three kinds of jam, local honey along with several caf&eacute; au laits we set off through the ravines to our favourite village about 20 minutes away: Lourmarin. <BR><BR>Last year we had stayed in Lourmarin in a magnificent house called Villa St. Louis right in the village. The wealth in this area from folks owning vacation homes is incredible. In this village of no more than 500 people there was a kitchen store that had the most extensive collection of pots, pans, stoves and related gadgets I have seen anywhere. I was particularly enchanted by a wine bottle opener in its wooden case selling for 1,200 FF or about $300 CDN. Oh well perhaps next year!<BR><BR>Lunch was at a place called La Recreation. We had been there before but this time I was in for a surprise. I was half way through what I thought was the main course when a rather severe looking female person snatched the dish away while I was poised for the next bite. She explained that there had been a mistake and that what I was eating was not the intended plate. This little scene caused a bit of levity with the nearby patrons. When the stuffed aubergines finally came they were worth the wait.<BR><BR>After lunch we did a great circle tour of Bonnieux: Fort de Buox, Cadenet (has cash machine), Cucoron, La Bastide de Jourdans, Cereste and Apt (shopped for picnic dinner). Except for Apt, which is a large town, many of these rural farming villages have been taken over by vacationers. Some villages are really isolated but very picturesque. All of this involved a six-hour drive over roads that have been described previously. The balance of our explorations will be to the NW of here where the countryside is mostly broad valley or tablelands.<BR><BR>…more to come<BR><BR>

It gets even better.<BR><BR>Tuesday, Sept. 4, 2001<BR><BR>Last night we were treated to a son et lumiere show: to wit a thunderstorm. While there was lots of rain there was not much evidence of it in the morning because the land was so dry. <BR><BR>It’s almost harvest time for grapes and the monster picking machines were being wheeled out. These giants some 12 feet high straddle the vines and vibrate the grapes off. Loved the contrast between the old and the new: old vineyards, new machine whose operator was using a cell phone.<BR><BR><BR>After driving through Lacoste we stop in Menerbes the vacation home village in these parts. Ann descends on the unsuspecting, tired, but wealthy, shop owners while I repair to the local bar to buy a Herald Tribune. In short order she buys a much sought after tassel, a metallic rooster candleholder and a santon. <BR><BR>Santons are somewhat like dolls that depict a series of local characters in costume or carrying the tools of their trade They are also crafted as traditional nativity scenes. Really good ones are much sought after and quite valuable.(For a representative sample visit our dry sink in the kitchen.) On having purchased the santon, the clerk gives us an animated presentation that seems to involve a hairdryer. Turns out that what she is trying to tell us is that you use a hair dryer to dust the santons.<BR><BR>Next is Oppede le Vieux a medieval fortified village that had been abandoned for the past century but was now being restored. On the way up the steep cobbled path a lone hippie-type is selling wilted grapes. When the countryside became safer, the villagers abandoned the village and moved down in the valley to be closer to their fields. This happened in many of these villages including the aforementioned St. Victor La Coste of my wall building fame.<BR><BR>From Oppede we return for a quick antique fix to Ils sur La Sorgues. Once again we are foiled by the wily French in that the stores are closed on Wednesdays. On to Pernes les Fontaines. This village was on my list of must see places because in addition to walls and cemetaries I like fountains. This place was supposed to have almost a hundred of them. The locals had cleverly hidden 98 of them when they heard we were coming. Instead, we were greeted by a bunch of bored teenagers who were zooming around the village square on motorbikes with their cigarette smoking molls on back.<BR><BR>After a standard lunch beside a moss covered, but empty fountain, in Pernes sans Fountaines we visited the hill (aren’t they all by now) village of Venasque. I had originally booked a B & B here but had to cancel because my dates were out by a week. This is one cool beautiful village: a must for the next time.<BR><BR>Picnic dinner tonight was purchased in a butcher shop in Coustellet on the N100. The shop had the most incredible wine cellar in the basement. In addition to wine, we had ham, goat’s cheese, fresh bread and pastries.<BR><BR>After dinner another short snooze at Les Trois Sources, some reading and then to bed.<BR>... to be continued<BR><BR>

Wednesday, Sept. 5, 2001<BR><BR>Yesterday was a full day. First below the N100 and then just above it. <BR><BR>Today we are off to Lourmarin again to check out a neat soap and beauty products and an antique store that were closed earlier. Bad news. They are still closed. <BR><BR>We drove back North past Bonnieux to Roussillon. This village (hill top) is unique in that all the buildings are tinted a reddish brown ochre. The ochre cliffs had been mined for dyes prior to chemical dyes having been developed. They had some really neat pottery there. I regret not having bought a piece. Lunch was at the restaurant David. Bill says we had the menu regional, pichet (pitcher) of wine, omelette champignons, mineral water dessert and two coffees tab 323 FF or about $80 CDN<BR><BR>Next stop Gordes. This is a hilltop village to end all hilltop villages. See my North office wall for details. Notwithstanding that it is a tourist mecca, it is well worth the trip. Ann bought a birdcage for a plant holder and a santon. The birdcage in the carryon got a real chuckle from the security types when we boarded our return flight from Lyon.<BR><BR>…three more exciting days to come <BR>

Thursday, Sept. 6, 2001<BR><BR>We have breakfast most mornings in the courtyard under a large mulberry bush. The courtyard is sheltered from the wind by the building itself on three sides and by a large sturdy wood gate on the fourth. The walls in our part of the structure must be almost two feet thick. No sounds once people are in their rooms. The interior of courtyard is gravel (great for hearing guests arrive) and has lots of planters and flowerpots. Stone benches abound. There are several bicycles available for guests and a pool just outside the gate and below the vineyard.<BR><BR>At breakfast we say goodbye to another Aussie couple who have been staying at Les Trois Sources. I think that they have seven or eight rooms which during our stay have all been occupied. I never did ask our hosts where the name came from. Must have been related to water if you recall the French movie called Manon des Sources. <BR><BR>Our hostess here has been what I always imagine as typically French. Attractive, well groomed, stylish, great decorating and presentation skills and formally correct with strangers. <BR><BR>As we leave and wend our way North on the scenic route, as opposed to taking the Autoroute, the first major town we pass is Carpentras. At le Barroux we visit a castle that is being restored after having been set on fire in 1944. I have a terrific picture of the village as taken from the castle. Malaucene is the next village while Crestet , which we visited last year, is on our left.<BR><BR>Vaison La Romaine is our stop for lunch. We stayed in Vaison last year. Well worth a visit: roman ruins, great old town, classy B & B’s and excellent restaurants. On the subject of restaurants we returned to the Auberge de la Bartavelle. Superb food.<BR><BR>From Vaison we continue North through Nyons the olive centre in these parts and then just past Valaurie where we come to the last B & B called La Croix du Gres.<BR><BR>I am running out of superlatives to describe the location. It is well off the main road. Again it is a large complex of buildings that have been added to from time to time. This place has lots of activity: eight horses, three cats and two dogs. The horses are the chatelaine’s hobby. She even has a specially built truck to take them to shows. <BR><BR>The owners originally came from Belgium and at the moment their daughter, granddaughter and husband were visiting from Dubai where he manages a Marriott hotel. His parents are visiting as well. There are at least 10 rooms or small apartments here. <BR><BR>This is the only B & B where we had dinner: a puree of zucchini soup with cream, lamb stew, cheeses, wine, fruit, custard dessert and coffee. <BR><BR>At breakfast we met the entire clan and traded travelers’ tall tales. All of these folk had been to the USA or Canada. <BR><BR>... to be continued

Hi John,<BR><BR>I enjoy your journal and I am looking forward to reading more. Next spring we are renting a gite outside the town of Uzes and I am happy to hear that it is a nice town to be near.

Friday, Sept. 7, 2001<BR><BR>The breakfast selection we had today was the best ever: yogurt, cheese, cereal, fruit, bread, jams and powerful black coffee. We arranged for a 6:30 a.m. breakfast for the next day.<BR><BR>First exploratory stop today was Grignan a few kms just East of here. After taking pictures of yet another castle I headed to the local cemetery. <BR><BR>As faithful readers will know, I have a thing about cemeteries. (Ann doesn’t share this particular interest and so missed the action.) This one had folks buried in raised tombs the size and decorations of which trace the changes in family wealth or prosperity over time. Almost all had small plaques on top which were from family members or friends. These plaques are made of marble usually and say from a loving sister, uncle or similar. I went to a small church nearby and on entering heard some kind of funeral lament being sung in English. There were only about five persons in the church and I couldn’t tell if the singing was from a tape or from the congregation. No priest or others were seen. Hauntingly beautiful and Ann missed it.<BR><BR>In the village we struck shoppers gold. Exquisite little shops where we bought a cuddly toy for Andrea and Matt’s forthcoming daughter and some soap. I took what turned out to be my all time favourite village street scene: a must see when visiting our home galleries<BR><BR>From Grignan we went a few kms North to visit the Abbey Notre Dame de Aiguebelle. I had been there last year but Ann had not. In any event, the Abbey is located in a small valley. It, the Abbey, does not appear to be old but it is beautiful in a way that religious buildings are in France. <BR><BR>Once again we arrived in time for the gift shop to close. On hearing the chapel bells we headed for the noon service. The monks filed in wearing white cloaks, hoods and sandals. Some could barely manage<BR>to make it to the choir. We stayed to listen to the singing, prayers and readings. Ann thought they led a great life. No worries or cares she claimed.<BR><BR>On the way back we tried to find a restaurant in Valaurie. No luck but I did manage to squeeze our car into a narrow lane and ended in someone’s back or front yard. This was not the first time I had risen to this kind of driving challenge. Hopefully, it won’t be the last. I like to follow roads into dead ends. It’s a macho genetic thing.<BR><BR>The problem of lunch was solved at the three star Domaine les Mejonnes just up the road from our B & B. Great 98FF, about $20 CDN per person menu: salad, salmon quiche with leak, a small bird or foul of some kind, veggies, rice and dessert of cake in a pear sauce followed by samplers of fresh fruit. Notwithstanding our one meal out rule, we are going back again before heading out tomorrow,<BR><BR>On returning from lunch, Ann spent the afternoon packing while I pretended to help. During the afternoon I had read in Friday’s Herald Tribune that Air Transat had been grounded for long haul flights that were more than 90 minutes from an airport. This had all come about because they had run out of fuel on a flight to Europe and had to glide to land in, I think, the Azores. Telephone calls to Paris indicated no change in departure plans.<BR><BR>Once more to the Domaine for dinner: melon and smoked salmon plate, lamb with veggies, fromage blanc, lemon tart, cake with hot chocolate sauce and a herb garden flavoured sorbet.<BR><BR>...One more day<BR>

Saturday, Sept. 8, 2001<BR><BR>We had a restless night either as a result of too much dinner, airport anxiety, or both. Other than making the wrong turn near Lyon ( the only time the signs on the Autoroute or any other roads were not clear) because my maps were not explicit enough we arrived in time. We left our trusty little car with Avis. <BR><BR>The flight home was uneventful. Some of the same children were back. By this time they almost seemed like friends.<BR><BR>Fin.<BR><BR>A la prochaine.<BR>

Thank you John! We are thinking about a couple weeks in the French countryside for our next trip. I'll have to copy and paste this to my travel file! Merci!

John, count me as number three (four?) of your select but devoted fans. I haven't had such a good chuckle in a long time. <BR><BR>If you had trouble with the shops, we had trouble with the brasseries. We never could figure out the hours when food service would be available in these places, and when beverage service alone was available. <BR><BR>I note the date of your trip and am relieved to find a fellow procrastinator. Thank you, feel much better now. : - )

One more fan. <BR>We are planning to visit Provence in 2003. Do you think November will be too cold?<BR>Pierrette

Topping

Pierrette:<BR>I have never been in Provence in November. For the weather at that time of year check out:<BR>http://www.usatoday.com/weather/climate/worldcli.htm<BR>Click on M for Marseille, or L for Lyon or N for Nice.