Peripatetic in Paris - a Beatchick's Travels
Mar 15th, 2006, 06:22 PM
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Beatchick,
You mean you didn't plan that shot??? I thought for sure you were trying for the same one!! Now I am REALLY impressed...you know the old saying.."great minds think alike"....
You mean you didn't plan that shot??? I thought for sure you were trying for the same one!! Now I am REALLY impressed...you know the old saying.."great minds think alike"....
Mar 15th, 2006, 07:23 PM
#163
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Thursday – Feb 9th
The day dawned sunny & a few clouds as I stepped out of Le Village with wonderful Impressionistic clouds hanging overhead. It appeared there might be some rain. As I walked through the Metro station, I was tickled to see the ad for <u>A Clockwork Orange</u> (<u>Orange Mechanique</u
, one of my favorite books & movies. Too bad I didn’t get to see the play! When I stepped up out of the Louvre-Rivoli station I was greeted with the most gorgeous blue sky – I had to snap a photo!
St-Germain-l’Auxerrois, the parish church of the royals until 1789, looked so stunning on this clear morning that it waylaid me into taking several photos (the one of the archway is Mr. Connolly’s favorite); the same can be said of the Louvre. As I walked along the Quai Francois Mitterand I was presented with a homeless camp down on the river level. I’m glad that the French government allows these encampments and does not bother these people and it amazed me that the camp was decorated with care.
While standing on the Pont des Arts in an Amélie moment looking towards the Institut de France taking photos, then whirling around to take photos of the Louvre a woman bent down, picked up a gold ring, approached me to ask if it was mine. I told her it wasn’t but she presented me with the ring indicating she couldn’t possibly find the owner and in her own words “chance pour moi, chance pour vous” or something to that effect. So I took the ring and walked towards the Left Bank. Then she came back & asked me if I might have some change for petit dejeuner. I told her I did not but gave her enough for a cup of coffee. When I told Mr. Connolly about it later, he called it “good Starbuck’s karma”. Then entering the world of the 6th via the archway at Place de l’Institut, I started my explorations.
I paused at the statue of Voltaire at the end of the rue de Seine as I had seen Steve’s (Pixfield from VT who was meeting us at Le Train Bleu GTG) photo a year before. I’m a huge fan of Voltaire having read nearly all of his work and was tickled to find out about this statue. Then it was on to photograph art galleries & literary haunts. On the way to the Ecole des Beaux Arts it dawned on me that I urgently needed a loo break so I popped into La Charrette for “les toilettes, s’il vous plait”. Monsieur pointed me the way and I ordered a grand café crème. But he waved me away indicating it wasn’t necessary to order a cup o’ joe in return for the use of the facilities. Persistence, however, ruled out & I won my grand café crème. While sipping un café I noticed he had Cafés Richard cups! As you know, I was on a quest to buy one for a friend of mine but, alas, he would not sell them either. A few days earlier I had These d**mn*d cups were proving to be quite elusive.
This day was spent tracking down literary, music, and artistic haunts:
L’Hotel - 13 rue des Beaux Arts (this is where Oscar Wilde died & where he famously quipped <i>either this wallpaper goes or I do</i> ; some books will tell you that here is where he quipped <i>I am dying beyond my means</i> as his last words, but he had spoken those words a few weeks earlier while staying at the Hotel du Quai Voltaire – ironic that his expensive hotel was the latter and he was moved to L’Hotel because then it was cheaper)
*Thornton Wilder - 57 rue de Seine (June 1921 when it was known as Hotel Maroc)
*Miles Davis – Hotel la Louisiane, 60 rue de Seine
*Ernest & Hadley Hemingway – Le Pré aux Clercs, Hadley’s favorite restaurant at 30 rue Bonaparte
*Hemingways’ 1st home in Paris - Hotel d’Angleterre, 44 rue Jacob
*Natalie Barney’s home – 20 rue Jacob (site of her famous literary salons that rivaled Gertrude Stein’s – in fact, James Joyce would attend Natalie’s while snubbing Gertrude’s)
*Musee Delacroix – Place Furstemberg (site of his atelier)
*James Joyce’s home - 9 rue de l'Universite
*Joyce's fave resto - 29 rue des Sts-Peres - site of Michaud's
http://www.l-hotel.com/
http://www.hotellalouisiane.com/
http://www.hotel-dangleterre.com/
The day dawned sunny & a few clouds as I stepped out of Le Village with wonderful Impressionistic clouds hanging overhead. It appeared there might be some rain. As I walked through the Metro station, I was tickled to see the ad for <u>A Clockwork Orange</u> (<u>Orange Mechanique</u
, one of my favorite books & movies. Too bad I didn’t get to see the play! When I stepped up out of the Louvre-Rivoli station I was greeted with the most gorgeous blue sky – I had to snap a photo!St-Germain-l’Auxerrois, the parish church of the royals until 1789, looked so stunning on this clear morning that it waylaid me into taking several photos (the one of the archway is Mr. Connolly’s favorite); the same can be said of the Louvre. As I walked along the Quai Francois Mitterand I was presented with a homeless camp down on the river level. I’m glad that the French government allows these encampments and does not bother these people and it amazed me that the camp was decorated with care.
While standing on the Pont des Arts in an Amélie moment looking towards the Institut de France taking photos, then whirling around to take photos of the Louvre a woman bent down, picked up a gold ring, approached me to ask if it was mine. I told her it wasn’t but she presented me with the ring indicating she couldn’t possibly find the owner and in her own words “chance pour moi, chance pour vous” or something to that effect. So I took the ring and walked towards the Left Bank. Then she came back & asked me if I might have some change for petit dejeuner. I told her I did not but gave her enough for a cup of coffee. When I told Mr. Connolly about it later, he called it “good Starbuck’s karma”. Then entering the world of the 6th via the archway at Place de l’Institut, I started my explorations.
I paused at the statue of Voltaire at the end of the rue de Seine as I had seen Steve’s (Pixfield from VT who was meeting us at Le Train Bleu GTG) photo a year before. I’m a huge fan of Voltaire having read nearly all of his work and was tickled to find out about this statue. Then it was on to photograph art galleries & literary haunts. On the way to the Ecole des Beaux Arts it dawned on me that I urgently needed a loo break so I popped into La Charrette for “les toilettes, s’il vous plait”. Monsieur pointed me the way and I ordered a grand café crème. But he waved me away indicating it wasn’t necessary to order a cup o’ joe in return for the use of the facilities. Persistence, however, ruled out & I won my grand café crème. While sipping un café I noticed he had Cafés Richard cups! As you know, I was on a quest to buy one for a friend of mine but, alas, he would not sell them either. A few days earlier I had These d**mn*d cups were proving to be quite elusive.
This day was spent tracking down literary, music, and artistic haunts:
L’Hotel - 13 rue des Beaux Arts (this is where Oscar Wilde died & where he famously quipped <i>either this wallpaper goes or I do</i> ; some books will tell you that here is where he quipped <i>I am dying beyond my means</i> as his last words, but he had spoken those words a few weeks earlier while staying at the Hotel du Quai Voltaire – ironic that his expensive hotel was the latter and he was moved to L’Hotel because then it was cheaper)
*Thornton Wilder - 57 rue de Seine (June 1921 when it was known as Hotel Maroc)
*Miles Davis – Hotel la Louisiane, 60 rue de Seine
*Ernest & Hadley Hemingway – Le Pré aux Clercs, Hadley’s favorite restaurant at 30 rue Bonaparte
*Hemingways’ 1st home in Paris - Hotel d’Angleterre, 44 rue Jacob
*Natalie Barney’s home – 20 rue Jacob (site of her famous literary salons that rivaled Gertrude Stein’s – in fact, James Joyce would attend Natalie’s while snubbing Gertrude’s)
*Musee Delacroix – Place Furstemberg (site of his atelier)
*James Joyce’s home - 9 rue de l'Universite
*Joyce's fave resto - 29 rue des Sts-Peres - site of Michaud's
http://www.l-hotel.com/
http://www.hotellalouisiane.com/
http://www.hotel-dangleterre.com/
Mar 15th, 2006, 07:24 PM
#164
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A bit of shopping was done, too, at:
<u>Ladurée</u> – I had to return to try new macarons (the * indicate my faves):
Pistache – Pistachio*
Poivre de Java - Black Pepper
Cassis Violette - Blackcurrant Violet
Fleur d'Oranger - Orange Flower*
Rose *
Caramel au Sel - Salted Caramel*
<u>Lush</u> - 30 rue de Buci
<u>Rue de Buci market</u> - to pick up raspberries (goes great with chocolat chaud) & cherries that are luscious & ravishing even in February
<u>Debauve & Gallais</u> - 30 rue des Saints Pères (7th) - for trés fantastique chocolat.
http://www.laduree.fr/
http://lush.com/
http://www.debauveandgallais.com/
I was stunned by the beauty of St-Germain-des-Pres, a church I’d only seen in passing on a L’Open Tour bus back in 2002. I’d seen photos but of course photos can never prepare you for the graceful immensity of such a place as this. Even the minutest architectural details on the outside were stunning.
http://www.eglise-sgp.org/
One of the coolest things I discovered in the 6th was the Oscar Zadkine statue that stands right outside Les Deux Magots. And then I stumbled upon the Sevres monument just behind St-Germain-des-Pres (colors so beautiful that my photo looks fake!).
http://www.lesdeuxmagots.fr/
I find I did a great many touristy things this trip. This was my fourth trip to Paris & I was just getting to the famous cafes. During the first three trips I'd never done the big cafés, so in one day I went to two: Brasserie Lipp & Café de Flore. At Brasserie Lipp I ordered a demi blonde bier a la Hemingway; I also tried the Pommes de Terre a l'Huile which comes with harengs marine (marinated herrings & potatoes in oil) that he raved about in <u>A Moveable Feast</u>. Unfortunately, I didn't like the herring (too raw tasting, the texture was off for me) but the potatoes were good. Lucky me, I was inside of Lipp while it rained and when I came out it had blessedly stopped.
http://www.brasserie-lipp.fr/
After Lipp, I walked around doing some shopping & looking for those literary haunts, when a lady outside of 16 rue de l'Universite saw me taking photos of buildings and decided to showcase her 17th century building with beautiful detailing inside and to show me the courtyard.
Dinner was Café de Flore where I tried their famous soupe a l'oignon gratinée (superb and very expensive, too) & equally famous chocolat chaud (great hot chocolate although not as great as Angélina). Very touristy but I loved it!
http://www.cafe-de-flore.com/
<u>Ladurée</u> – I had to return to try new macarons (the * indicate my faves):
Pistache – Pistachio*
Poivre de Java - Black Pepper
Cassis Violette - Blackcurrant Violet
Fleur d'Oranger - Orange Flower*
Rose *
Caramel au Sel - Salted Caramel*
<u>Lush</u> - 30 rue de Buci
<u>Rue de Buci market</u> - to pick up raspberries (goes great with chocolat chaud) & cherries that are luscious & ravishing even in February
<u>Debauve & Gallais</u> - 30 rue des Saints Pères (7th) - for trés fantastique chocolat.
http://www.laduree.fr/
http://lush.com/
http://www.debauveandgallais.com/
I was stunned by the beauty of St-Germain-des-Pres, a church I’d only seen in passing on a L’Open Tour bus back in 2002. I’d seen photos but of course photos can never prepare you for the graceful immensity of such a place as this. Even the minutest architectural details on the outside were stunning.
http://www.eglise-sgp.org/
One of the coolest things I discovered in the 6th was the Oscar Zadkine statue that stands right outside Les Deux Magots. And then I stumbled upon the Sevres monument just behind St-Germain-des-Pres (colors so beautiful that my photo looks fake!).
http://www.lesdeuxmagots.fr/
I find I did a great many touristy things this trip. This was my fourth trip to Paris & I was just getting to the famous cafes. During the first three trips I'd never done the big cafés, so in one day I went to two: Brasserie Lipp & Café de Flore. At Brasserie Lipp I ordered a demi blonde bier a la Hemingway; I also tried the Pommes de Terre a l'Huile which comes with harengs marine (marinated herrings & potatoes in oil) that he raved about in <u>A Moveable Feast</u>. Unfortunately, I didn't like the herring (too raw tasting, the texture was off for me) but the potatoes were good. Lucky me, I was inside of Lipp while it rained and when I came out it had blessedly stopped.
http://www.brasserie-lipp.fr/
After Lipp, I walked around doing some shopping & looking for those literary haunts, when a lady outside of 16 rue de l'Universite saw me taking photos of buildings and decided to showcase her 17th century building with beautiful detailing inside and to show me the courtyard.
Dinner was Café de Flore where I tried their famous soupe a l'oignon gratinée (superb and very expensive, too) & equally famous chocolat chaud (great hot chocolate although not as great as Angélina). Very touristy but I loved it!
http://www.cafe-de-flore.com/
Mar 15th, 2006, 07:32 PM
#165
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I also stumbled across the pretty window of Bonbonnière de Buci at 12 rue de Buci, a place I’d always wanted to try since reading about it on Fodor’s; good thing I was able to go here with SFowler, Starspinners & Michael Osman here on my last Friday and we all loved it.
The rest of the afternoon was spent exploring Cour du Commerce St-André with its lovely Relais Odeon Bistro 1900 (which I had on screensaver, funny the things that prompt our searches in Paris) and Le Procope (oldest café in Paris which housed such luminaries as Benjamin Franklin, Voltaire, Victor Hugo, Oscar Wilde, Balzac, George Sand, Marat, Danton, Robespierre). And then it was off to find my major quest in Paris, Cour de Rohan, with its 3 picturesque interconnecting courtyards which once housed Diane de Poitiers (3rd courtyard in my pics). It’s no surprise that it was used as one of the settings for <u>Gigi</u> as Madame Alvarez’ home. Looking for Jack Kerouac’s home (well, I’m not called the Beatchick for nothing) in Paris I happened upon Corcoran, the Irish pub Seamus & I had a pint o' Guinness, which was just around the corner (28 rue St-Andre-des-Arts).
http://www.procope.com/en/index.htm
http://www.corcoranirishpub.com/
The literary quest continued with Richard Wright’s 3 homes: 14 rue Monsieur-le-Prince (where Martin Luther King, Jr. visited him), 1 bis rue de Vaugirard (Hotel Trianon Rive Gauche) & 38 boulevard St-Michel – all clustered closely together. And while in the neighborhood I had to find William Faulkner’s home (26 rue Servandoni), the home of Hemingway & Pauline Pfeiffer (6 rue Ferou), and one of the many homes of the F. Scott Fitzgeralds (3-5 rue Palatine).
http://www.paris-hotel-trianon.com/
http://www.luxembourg-paris-hotel.com/
Ahhh, Eglise St-Sulpice – what can I say except that it was stunning inside, quite breath taking. It is now my favorite interior of a church in all of Paris (and I’ve visited more than a few). The Delacroix murals are stunning; the ceilings are monumental with varied perspectives as you move through the church. One could spend hours in here.
http://www.stsulpice.com/
After tromping around all day in St-Germain-des-Pres, Odeon & Cour de Rohan I was ready to call it a day and just sit & people-watch from Café de la Mairie - but I hadn’t been to the Village Voice yet. I was scoping out the place to buy a book & to see if this was indeed the bookstore setting for the poetry reading scene in <u>Le Divorce</u>. Indeed it is, per Odile, the owner. She's a very nice woman, very open & giving. She explained that although the movie was not shot in her book shop, the set was created to exactly recreate her shop. In fact, I recognized it immediately when I strode through the door. This place is great for books & book readings.
http://www.villagevoicebookshop.com/
The rest of the afternoon was spent exploring Cour du Commerce St-André with its lovely Relais Odeon Bistro 1900 (which I had on screensaver, funny the things that prompt our searches in Paris) and Le Procope (oldest café in Paris which housed such luminaries as Benjamin Franklin, Voltaire, Victor Hugo, Oscar Wilde, Balzac, George Sand, Marat, Danton, Robespierre). And then it was off to find my major quest in Paris, Cour de Rohan, with its 3 picturesque interconnecting courtyards which once housed Diane de Poitiers (3rd courtyard in my pics). It’s no surprise that it was used as one of the settings for <u>Gigi</u> as Madame Alvarez’ home. Looking for Jack Kerouac’s home (well, I’m not called the Beatchick for nothing) in Paris I happened upon Corcoran, the Irish pub Seamus & I had a pint o' Guinness, which was just around the corner (28 rue St-Andre-des-Arts).
http://www.procope.com/en/index.htm
http://www.corcoranirishpub.com/
The literary quest continued with Richard Wright’s 3 homes: 14 rue Monsieur-le-Prince (where Martin Luther King, Jr. visited him), 1 bis rue de Vaugirard (Hotel Trianon Rive Gauche) & 38 boulevard St-Michel – all clustered closely together. And while in the neighborhood I had to find William Faulkner’s home (26 rue Servandoni), the home of Hemingway & Pauline Pfeiffer (6 rue Ferou), and one of the many homes of the F. Scott Fitzgeralds (3-5 rue Palatine).
http://www.paris-hotel-trianon.com/
http://www.luxembourg-paris-hotel.com/
Ahhh, Eglise St-Sulpice – what can I say except that it was stunning inside, quite breath taking. It is now my favorite interior of a church in all of Paris (and I’ve visited more than a few). The Delacroix murals are stunning; the ceilings are monumental with varied perspectives as you move through the church. One could spend hours in here.
http://www.stsulpice.com/
After tromping around all day in St-Germain-des-Pres, Odeon & Cour de Rohan I was ready to call it a day and just sit & people-watch from Café de la Mairie - but I hadn’t been to the Village Voice yet. I was scoping out the place to buy a book & to see if this was indeed the bookstore setting for the poetry reading scene in <u>Le Divorce</u>. Indeed it is, per Odile, the owner. She's a very nice woman, very open & giving. She explained that although the movie was not shot in her book shop, the set was created to exactly recreate her shop. In fact, I recognized it immediately when I strode through the door. This place is great for books & book readings.
http://www.villagevoicebookshop.com/
Mar 15th, 2006, 07:34 PM
#166
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Anyway, it JUST SO HAPPENS that David Sedaris, who was supposed to be giving a reading from his collection of stories called Dress Your Family in Corduroy & Denim, was instead giving a reading from an upcoming NY Times story; it was fantastic.
For those of you unfamiliar with this author, David Sedaris wrote <u>Me Talk Pretty One Day</u>. He has an NPR show. His sister is actress Amy Sedaris who was in the movie <u>Elf</u> and who is equally hilarious. His humor stems from quirky situations with his family.
Anyway, imagine my surprise when I walked in & David Sedaris was there! It's so funny because I didn't know he was going to be there. Imagine if I'd decided not to go to the Village Voice that night. I was just telling Mr. Connolly the week before I left for Paris about a David Sedaris story "The City of Light after Dark" (from <u>Me Talk Pretty One Day</u I’d read in a compilation book called <u>Paris in Mind</u> by Jennifer Lee. It concerns David living in Paris, not caring about the sites but loving Paris cinema. In the story, he creates his day based upon different movies that are shown in the city. Where someone else might create an itinerary going from site to site, he creates his by going from one movie in one section of the city & then rushing to another section to catch another film! In the story, when people visit him that he doesn't show them the sites, he attempts to take them to a movie. Actually, he loves old American movies shown in Paris movie theatres.
Bought his book, he signed it (I read his book on Metros & cafes the next 3 days, enraptured). When I told David I hadn’t known about the meeting but had shown up on the basis of <u>Le Divorce</u>, he mentioned that Diane Johnson might show up for his meeting and I was surprised that they might know each other, supposing that writers must be an insular group. I then shared with him that I'd told my husband about his story and that we both thought it was hilarious. That was when he asked me if I've seen any films. Not yet, I replied. He told me I needed to run, RUN to the nearest cinema to see a movie in complete & utter silence, something completely different than what we get in America - which I did the following night.
David was so nice, charming, engaging & extremely hilarious! While signing our books he told us that undoubtedly “some smart-ass American kid” would ask him a question in French because they’re always testing his skill in French. He said he’d let it go through his interpreter, answer in English & let the interpreter relay it back in French! Who’s the smart-ass now?
During his reading, he told us this tidbit about the difficulty in translating books from English to French. He used the name Britney as an example. In America, if you use the name Britney it conjures up a certain image, a girl of a certain age who loves to shop. So it was up to his translator to find a French name to equivocate that. The translator came up with Marie Chantalle. So Mr. Sedaris asked a French friend what she thought of when she heard the name Marie Chantalle. She replied that "Marie Chantalle is the type of person who, when her ashtray is full, buys a new car."
Incidentally, David revealed that due to work, he now splits his time equally between Paris & London. Anywho, his readings are every bit as hilarious as his writings so if you get a chance hear him do a reading or at the very least buy his books. I think you'll find David to be charmingly HILARIOUS in his readings. But when he was doing his reading I heard a bit of a quaver in his voice so I think maybe he might be a bit insecure after all, like so many of us.
BTW, David's ph# & address are listed in www.pagesjaunes.fr. I very nearly called him afterwards to thank him for the theatre experience tip. I didn’t realize it until later that I actually photographed his home! I’d gone to 8 rue Dupuytren, which was the first incarnation of Sylvia Beach’s Shakespeare & Co. (from 1919-21 when she moved it to 12 rue de l’Odeon) to take a photograph. It was only later after I’d done a search on his address and then worked on these photos that I made the connection that David Sedaris lives in the same building. So I snapped a photo of a Sylvia Beach site & the home of David Sedaris!
The last literary site was Henry Miller’s home at 61 rue Bonaparte, which just so happens to be Ira’s favorite hotel! Henry Miller stayed during February 1930 in a 5th-floor garret for less than $20 per month just before he was "rescued from starvation" by his friend, Richard Galen Osborn (you saw their apt in the first day’s set of photos). If you've seen the movie Henry & June then you'll recognize Osborn as the paranoid friend played by Kevin Spacey.
To top off the night I partook of un café at Café de la Marie, which sits on Place to St-Sulpice and holds historic ties to Henry Miller. I’d gone here last trip early one morning for breakfast after picking up a round walnut loaf from Poilane & picking up a Poilane bag for Cigalechanta. The photos I took last trip of the square, St-Sulpice & this café were ruined so I vowed to return. While inside I again noticed Cafés Richard cups, yet again, the quest was foiled!
For those of you unfamiliar with this author, David Sedaris wrote <u>Me Talk Pretty One Day</u>. He has an NPR show. His sister is actress Amy Sedaris who was in the movie <u>Elf</u> and who is equally hilarious. His humor stems from quirky situations with his family.
Anyway, imagine my surprise when I walked in & David Sedaris was there! It's so funny because I didn't know he was going to be there. Imagine if I'd decided not to go to the Village Voice that night. I was just telling Mr. Connolly the week before I left for Paris about a David Sedaris story "The City of Light after Dark" (from <u>Me Talk Pretty One Day</u
I’d read in a compilation book called <u>Paris in Mind</u> by Jennifer Lee. It concerns David living in Paris, not caring about the sites but loving Paris cinema. In the story, he creates his day based upon different movies that are shown in the city. Where someone else might create an itinerary going from site to site, he creates his by going from one movie in one section of the city & then rushing to another section to catch another film! In the story, when people visit him that he doesn't show them the sites, he attempts to take them to a movie. Actually, he loves old American movies shown in Paris movie theatres.Bought his book, he signed it (I read his book on Metros & cafes the next 3 days, enraptured). When I told David I hadn’t known about the meeting but had shown up on the basis of <u>Le Divorce</u>, he mentioned that Diane Johnson might show up for his meeting and I was surprised that they might know each other, supposing that writers must be an insular group. I then shared with him that I'd told my husband about his story and that we both thought it was hilarious. That was when he asked me if I've seen any films. Not yet, I replied. He told me I needed to run, RUN to the nearest cinema to see a movie in complete & utter silence, something completely different than what we get in America - which I did the following night.
David was so nice, charming, engaging & extremely hilarious! While signing our books he told us that undoubtedly “some smart-ass American kid” would ask him a question in French because they’re always testing his skill in French. He said he’d let it go through his interpreter, answer in English & let the interpreter relay it back in French! Who’s the smart-ass now?
During his reading, he told us this tidbit about the difficulty in translating books from English to French. He used the name Britney as an example. In America, if you use the name Britney it conjures up a certain image, a girl of a certain age who loves to shop. So it was up to his translator to find a French name to equivocate that. The translator came up with Marie Chantalle. So Mr. Sedaris asked a French friend what she thought of when she heard the name Marie Chantalle. She replied that "Marie Chantalle is the type of person who, when her ashtray is full, buys a new car."
Incidentally, David revealed that due to work, he now splits his time equally between Paris & London. Anywho, his readings are every bit as hilarious as his writings so if you get a chance hear him do a reading or at the very least buy his books. I think you'll find David to be charmingly HILARIOUS in his readings. But when he was doing his reading I heard a bit of a quaver in his voice so I think maybe he might be a bit insecure after all, like so many of us.
BTW, David's ph# & address are listed in www.pagesjaunes.fr. I very nearly called him afterwards to thank him for the theatre experience tip. I didn’t realize it until later that I actually photographed his home! I’d gone to 8 rue Dupuytren, which was the first incarnation of Sylvia Beach’s Shakespeare & Co. (from 1919-21 when she moved it to 12 rue de l’Odeon) to take a photograph. It was only later after I’d done a search on his address and then worked on these photos that I made the connection that David Sedaris lives in the same building. So I snapped a photo of a Sylvia Beach site & the home of David Sedaris!
The last literary site was Henry Miller’s home at 61 rue Bonaparte, which just so happens to be Ira’s favorite hotel! Henry Miller stayed during February 1930 in a 5th-floor garret for less than $20 per month just before he was "rescued from starvation" by his friend, Richard Galen Osborn (you saw their apt in the first day’s set of photos). If you've seen the movie Henry & June then you'll recognize Osborn as the paranoid friend played by Kevin Spacey.
To top off the night I partook of un café at Café de la Marie, which sits on Place to St-Sulpice and holds historic ties to Henry Miller. I’d gone here last trip early one morning for breakfast after picking up a round walnut loaf from Poilane & picking up a Poilane bag for Cigalechanta. The photos I took last trip of the square, St-Sulpice & this café were ruined so I vowed to return. While inside I again noticed Cafés Richard cups, yet again, the quest was foiled!
Mar 16th, 2006, 01:17 AM
#167
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Again Beatchick, thank you for the fascinating travel diary and the great photos. You have always had such a good eye for a great photo! I was taken by one difference between your approach and that of David Sedaris; he takes friends to a movie (Old but still a US movie) whereas you like to take us to the scenes of movie made in Paris. I prefer your approach. Waiting in anticipation for the next episode.
Mar 16th, 2006, 03:12 AM
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Beatchick,
You have outdone yourself!! This was a two WI cup morning, and now that I have a stateside source, I can indulge rather than ration myself (Thank you!)...I agree with Mr. Connolly..that "arch" photo really had me staring for a long while..now I am going back to read and look again slooooowly..
You have outdone yourself!! This was a two WI cup morning, and now that I have a stateside source, I can indulge rather than ration myself (Thank you!)...I agree with Mr. Connolly..that "arch" photo really had me staring for a long while..now I am going back to read and look again slooooowly..
Mar 16th, 2006, 06:48 AM
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"Really, Dina?! Which hotel did you stay in? What was your favorite thing in Paris?"
Good morning Mary! I stayed in the 6th at the Hotel Jardin de L'Odeon. It's located at 7 rue Casimir Delavigne. Here is the website, if you'd like to take a look:
www.hoteljardinodeonparis.com
I posted a review on TA as well. I really liked being on a quiet street in such a "happening" neighborhood, but after a few days was wishing I had split my time and stayed in 2 areas. I'll know better next time.
Honestly, I don't think I could choose just one favorite thing about Paris. There were so many highlights (the Jim Haynes Dinner, the Musee D'Orsay, the bread!). As much as I am sad to tell you, I didn't get to nearly half of my scheduled itinerary, I loved the way Paris just took hold and lead me in directions I never intended, only to discover something equally as interesting as what I was originally looking for.
Off to look at your photos for the bazillionth time. I just can't get enough!
Good morning Mary! I stayed in the 6th at the Hotel Jardin de L'Odeon. It's located at 7 rue Casimir Delavigne. Here is the website, if you'd like to take a look:
www.hoteljardinodeonparis.com
I posted a review on TA as well. I really liked being on a quiet street in such a "happening" neighborhood, but after a few days was wishing I had split my time and stayed in 2 areas. I'll know better next time.
Honestly, I don't think I could choose just one favorite thing about Paris. There were so many highlights (the Jim Haynes Dinner, the Musee D'Orsay, the bread!). As much as I am sad to tell you, I didn't get to nearly half of my scheduled itinerary, I loved the way Paris just took hold and lead me in directions I never intended, only to discover something equally as interesting as what I was originally looking for.
Off to look at your photos for the bazillionth time. I just can't get enough!
Mar 17th, 2006, 06:18 PM
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Hi Faux! The GTG was a success...everyone who RSVP'd actually showed up, including AnneParis from TA, who was a delight. She really is so sweet in person. I regret not being able to take her cooking class. I hear it's a definite "must do". The restaurant was adoreable and the food amazing.
The hotel was really a nice suprise after a long flight, but I think I after about 4 or 5 nights, it would have been great to stay in another part of town, just to experience some new scenery. I really liked the Bastille area. I also found an adoreable hotel almost directly behind the Madeline that I would have loved to stay at. Can you tell I'm already dreaming of my next trip to Paris!?
So where did our Beatchick wander off to? I'm dying to hear the rest of her report!
The hotel was really a nice suprise after a long flight, but I think I after about 4 or 5 nights, it would have been great to stay in another part of town, just to experience some new scenery. I really liked the Bastille area. I also found an adoreable hotel almost directly behind the Madeline that I would have loved to stay at. Can you tell I'm already dreaming of my next trip to Paris!?
So where did our Beatchick wander off to? I'm dying to hear the rest of her report!
Mar 18th, 2006, 10:03 PM
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Yes Dina, that is a good point. Where is Beatchick? 4 days off is not good enough. I think she might be being unfaithful to us at Fodors and posting photos on her tips at VT!
Provided you don't mind having to book out of one hotel one morning and then booking into the next that afternoon, changing hotels and moving to a totally different area sounds like a good idea. You could almost certainly leave your luggage at the first hotel reception while you shopped etc until it was time to go to the second. I am not sure I would want to do that 4 times in a trip, like Beatchick did on her last trip (I am pretty sure she said Village Hostel, Hotel Henri IV on Ile de la Citie, Hotel Chopin and Les Degres).
Provided you don't mind having to book out of one hotel one morning and then booking into the next that afternoon, changing hotels and moving to a totally different area sounds like a good idea. You could almost certainly leave your luggage at the first hotel reception while you shopped etc until it was time to go to the second. I am not sure I would want to do that 4 times in a trip, like Beatchick did on her last trip (I am pretty sure she said Village Hostel, Hotel Henri IV on Ile de la Citie, Hotel Chopin and Les Degres).
Mar 20th, 2006, 12:09 AM
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One thing you can do to make the transition more smooth is work your laundry routine into the switch. Pack up from Hotel #1 early in the morning, go to a laundromat, do your laundry, and then proceed to Hotel #2. I'm someone who likes to do laundry every 5-6 days during a trip, so this works for me, whether I'm switching in one city or traveling to another.
Mar 21st, 2006, 02:17 PM
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Bonjour! Oui, all is well. Mr. Connolly started a new job, left on Sunday for the job, so we spent St. Paddy's day thru Sunday just hanging out a lot. I was sad when he left so I hadn't felt much like posting anything. He's back today so all is well now. Our anniversary of us getting back together was last Wednesday - we've been back together now for a year - I hadn't realized how attached to him I was.
Sorry about not getting back here sooner. How is everybody? Did you all have a nice St. Patrick's Day? Clan Connolly, being Irish, had a fabulous time.
Faux, I never answered your question regarding the violinist. Again, it was the camera. I took several shots of her and picked the best one! Then I supported the lady with some money, thanking her for allowing me the photo op. I wish now, though, that I'd bought one of her CDs.
"difference between your approach and that of David Sedaris; he takes friends to a movie (Old but still a US movie) whereas you like to take us to the scenes of movie made in Paris. I prefer your approach"
Thank you, Faux! I told David about a project I was working on with Paris & movies and he wrote me a nice note in my book wishing me well on it.
"two WI cup morning"
Wow, la Traviata, I'm in awe - thank you! Wonder what would make for a 3 WI cup morning?
"A union of golden Assam tea with the sweetness of chocolate and caramel. A marriage made in heaven! Also delicious with a touch of milk and sugar."
Traviata, that's how Cultured Cup describes your tea - divine! I must try that. Mmmmm.
Wow, Dina, what a nice hotel and what a great location, Odeon! You were just a few streets from David Sedaris' apt!
"I posted a review on TA as well"
Can you post the link here so we may read it? I'd love to read it!
"after a few days was wishing I had split my time and stayed in 2 areas"
As Faux said, I stayed in 4 different hotels during my 16-day trip. While it was fun to stay in hotels I'd always wanted to stay in I wish now I hadn't moved around so much & spent so much time moving everything from place to place, unpacking & repacking - LOL! I think 2 different areas would've been fine, though.
"I didn't get to nearly half of my scheduled itinerary, I loved the way Paris just took hold and lead me in directions I never intended, only to discover something equally as interesting as what I was originally looking for"
Me neither! Paris is just too much fun to discover. How was your Jim Haynes dinner? We had a ton of fun but didn't mingle much as it was so crowded. But we stayed far longer than we'd intended because we were having so much fun. Dina, do you have a trip report started somewhere? OK, so where was the GTG and are there incriminating photos??
Sigh, I think dreaming of the next trip to Paris starts on the plane ride home. You can always do what I do, Dina, and just use the remainder of your undone itinerary as the basis for the next one! And then you'll read about different things on here & you'll add more & more.
Oui, oui, Faux, occasionally I have to post on VT, too, although I've only been adding photos with maybe 2 new tips. So much to do, so little time...
"One thing you can do to make the transition more smooth is work your laundry routine into the switch. Pack up from Hotel #1 early in the morning, go to a laundromat, do your laundry, and then proceed to Hotel #2."
Willtravel, excellent advice! That's exactly what I did when moving from the Hôtel Chopin to Hôtel Henri IV.
Sorry about not getting back here sooner. How is everybody? Did you all have a nice St. Patrick's Day? Clan Connolly, being Irish, had a fabulous time.
Faux, I never answered your question regarding the violinist. Again, it was the camera. I took several shots of her and picked the best one! Then I supported the lady with some money, thanking her for allowing me the photo op. I wish now, though, that I'd bought one of her CDs.
"difference between your approach and that of David Sedaris; he takes friends to a movie (Old but still a US movie) whereas you like to take us to the scenes of movie made in Paris. I prefer your approach"
Thank you, Faux! I told David about a project I was working on with Paris & movies and he wrote me a nice note in my book wishing me well on it.
"two WI cup morning"
Wow, la Traviata, I'm in awe - thank you! Wonder what would make for a 3 WI cup morning?
"A union of golden Assam tea with the sweetness of chocolate and caramel. A marriage made in heaven! Also delicious with a touch of milk and sugar."
Traviata, that's how Cultured Cup describes your tea - divine! I must try that. Mmmmm.
Wow, Dina, what a nice hotel and what a great location, Odeon! You were just a few streets from David Sedaris' apt!
"I posted a review on TA as well"
Can you post the link here so we may read it? I'd love to read it!
"after a few days was wishing I had split my time and stayed in 2 areas"
As Faux said, I stayed in 4 different hotels during my 16-day trip. While it was fun to stay in hotels I'd always wanted to stay in I wish now I hadn't moved around so much & spent so much time moving everything from place to place, unpacking & repacking - LOL! I think 2 different areas would've been fine, though.
"I didn't get to nearly half of my scheduled itinerary, I loved the way Paris just took hold and lead me in directions I never intended, only to discover something equally as interesting as what I was originally looking for"
Me neither! Paris is just too much fun to discover. How was your Jim Haynes dinner? We had a ton of fun but didn't mingle much as it was so crowded. But we stayed far longer than we'd intended because we were having so much fun. Dina, do you have a trip report started somewhere? OK, so where was the GTG and are there incriminating photos??
Sigh, I think dreaming of the next trip to Paris starts on the plane ride home. You can always do what I do, Dina, and just use the remainder of your undone itinerary as the basis for the next one! And then you'll read about different things on here & you'll add more & more.
Oui, oui, Faux, occasionally I have to post on VT, too, although I've only been adding photos with maybe 2 new tips. So much to do, so little time...
"One thing you can do to make the transition more smooth is work your laundry routine into the switch. Pack up from Hotel #1 early in the morning, go to a laundromat, do your laundry, and then proceed to Hotel #2."
Willtravel, excellent advice! That's exactly what I did when moving from the Hôtel Chopin to Hôtel Henri IV.
Mar 21st, 2006, 02:23 PM
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Beatchick,
I am so happy you are back because I have been thinking about you..I don't know how I missed it first time around, but I just saw "Cinema Paradiso-Director's Cut" and if it is possible to fall in love with a movie, I fell in love with this one...I didn't want it to end, even after almost three hours.....all about a love affair with movies...you can relate can't you???
I am so happy you are back because I have been thinking about you..I don't know how I missed it first time around, but I just saw "Cinema Paradiso-Director's Cut" and if it is possible to fall in love with a movie, I fell in love with this one...I didn't want it to end, even after almost three hours.....all about a love affair with movies...you can relate can't you???
Mar 21st, 2006, 03:30 PM
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Photos for Day 10:
http://www.pbase.com/beatchick/friday_february_10th_
Friday – Feb 10th
Friday morning I went to the Jardin des Plantes with the intent purpose of finding the Jardin d’Alpin because Frommer's calls it the best hidden garden in the city. Unfortunately, it is only open from April 1st - September 30th so I wasn’t able to see it. But those of you going to Paris during this time will be able to. It’s open Monday – Saturday and from April 3 – September 10th hours are from 7:30am to 8pm.
I meandered to the Arenes de Lutece, one of the places I visited last trip that I had to see again. This time men were playing boules in one area of the arena (alas, no Basque berets despite the reemergence of the beret this year in French fashion) while a father & son kicked around a football (soccer ball). I remembered the worn limestone steps from last trip, steps that surely were worn down during ancient Roman times which really brought home the ancient aspect of this city.
As, I’ve said before I love looking for those streets in Paris that are actually steps/stairs (I know, crazy). One of the prettiest I’ve seen so far is the entrance to rue Rollin from rue Monge (near the Arenes de Lutece); you can see it in the photo. I used this shortcut to get to Place de la Contrescarpe where I had lunch nearby at La Couscoussiere. It was really great couscous with excellent hot mint tea; however, the couscous as fabulous as it was is not nearly as good as what I’d had before at Les Degres de Notre Dame. The restaurant is family-owned and the family showed up for lunch. The granddaughter who was maybe 2 charmed me by coming by my table to dance. Unfortunately, she reminded me that I was so far from home missing my family so I cried a bit. I made Mr. Connolly promise me he’d come next visit so I wouldn’t miss him so much.
After lunch it was time to visit St-Etienne-du-Mont (near the Pantheon) which I’d seen gorgeous photos of from Sally (SFowler) and indeed it is stunning inside: all airy & light with the white stone inside resembling bone, the bones the hold the church upright. The exterior of the church is beautiful, too, with its gothic-baroque-Renaissance styles; would you call this flamboyant gothic perhaps? I took some gorgeous shots of it outside against the backdrop of sunny day.
This seemed to become the Day of Churches as I found I visited four others:
St Ephrem (a Syrian Catholic church),
Eglise Orthodox Roumaine,
St-Severin, and
St-Julien-le-Pauvre.
Eglise St Ephrem Paroisse Syriaque Catholique came as a surprise to me. I stumbled upon it on my way to see the Hotel St-Jacques. There it was tucked away on rue des Carmes, a church I’d never read about in any of my guidebooks. It was a little spooky going inside; not a soul in sight but there was music to greet me and the interior was rather dark, gloomy & foreboding. I stuck around to take some photos waiting for someone to show up but they never did so I skeedaddled.
Afterwards, I popped into the Hotel St-Jacques, the hotel featured in the Audrey Hepburn/Cary Grant classic Charade. The elevator is no longer there so I asked the lady if this was indeed the hotel shown in the movie & she averred that it was.
Next it was off to visit the Musee de Cluny, one of my favorite museums in Paris and one that my son hopes to visit because of its medieval architecture, art & accoutrements. Took photos of the Lady & the Unicorn tapestries (photography allowed if you don’t use flash), the Heads of the Kings of Judah statues that were torn off of Notre Dame during the Revolution (I’d missed this somehow last time), the stained glass that came from Ste-Chapelle (fascinating to see it all up close and doesn’t this fit well into the church theme?) and the royal & knightly articles. My son should be happy for the time being with the photos of the coats of mail & shields that I took for him.
I’d never seen the interiors of St-Severin or St-Julien-le-Pauvre so I definitely had to visit these. St-Severin surprised me with its soaring ribbed vaults inside and beautiful stained glass. I’ve since read that these windows are old but they look very modern to me, rather Chagall-like in their rendering. I must’ve been churched out by the time I hit St-Julien-le-Pauvre because it struck me as too gothic with its doom-and-gloom interior. They were gearing up for a Chopin recital that night. Perhaps I would’ve enjoyed it more under those circumstances but I was off to the movies that night per David Sedaris’ suggestion.
I’ve mentioned before the nice, friendly helpful global staff at Le Village. People from Brazil & different places worked there with one of the guys being a HUGE cinéphile like me. The night before I’d sat at one of the tables reading the Me Talk Pretty One Day and I was laughing out loud. He asked me what it was about which turned into a long discussion about movies & the theatres in Paris. He was then kind enough to help me find a movie for Friday. It was decided I’d see an old Marilyn Monroe flick, one I’d never seen, called Niagara.
So I took David Sedaris’ advice and saw a film that Friday night. Indeed, he's right. There was tons of talking in the theatre but the *moment* the title flashed across the screen all is still and quiet, utter silent bliss. At the theater I attended, Action Ecoles at 23 rue des Ecoles (just down the street from the Hotel St-Jacques), the seats were comfy with tall backs in red plush velvet. No small wonder that they don’t serve refreshments here, at least I didn’t see any. I've always told people that I have some sort of magnet that attracts the loudest people in the theatres to sit RIGHTBEHINDME. But here in Paris about the only sound you'll hear will be polite laughter during the funny parts. This alone makes me want to live in Paris!
Here’s the website that the gentleman at Le Village used to help me find a movie. It notes all the movies that are showing in Paris, an invaluable service:
http://www.seances.org
After the movie I decided to have dinner southern style, a late breakfast at Breakfast in America. It, too, is located on rue des Ecoles (17). If you hanker for eggs & bacon, American style, this is the place to be. Don’t be surprised if you find the place filled to the brim, as I did, with French teenagers all eating Club sandwiches!
http://www.pbase.com/beatchick/friday_february_10th_
Friday – Feb 10th
Friday morning I went to the Jardin des Plantes with the intent purpose of finding the Jardin d’Alpin because Frommer's calls it the best hidden garden in the city. Unfortunately, it is only open from April 1st - September 30th so I wasn’t able to see it. But those of you going to Paris during this time will be able to. It’s open Monday – Saturday and from April 3 – September 10th hours are from 7:30am to 8pm.
I meandered to the Arenes de Lutece, one of the places I visited last trip that I had to see again. This time men were playing boules in one area of the arena (alas, no Basque berets despite the reemergence of the beret this year in French fashion) while a father & son kicked around a football (soccer ball). I remembered the worn limestone steps from last trip, steps that surely were worn down during ancient Roman times which really brought home the ancient aspect of this city.
As, I’ve said before I love looking for those streets in Paris that are actually steps/stairs (I know, crazy). One of the prettiest I’ve seen so far is the entrance to rue Rollin from rue Monge (near the Arenes de Lutece); you can see it in the photo. I used this shortcut to get to Place de la Contrescarpe where I had lunch nearby at La Couscoussiere. It was really great couscous with excellent hot mint tea; however, the couscous as fabulous as it was is not nearly as good as what I’d had before at Les Degres de Notre Dame. The restaurant is family-owned and the family showed up for lunch. The granddaughter who was maybe 2 charmed me by coming by my table to dance. Unfortunately, she reminded me that I was so far from home missing my family so I cried a bit. I made Mr. Connolly promise me he’d come next visit so I wouldn’t miss him so much.
After lunch it was time to visit St-Etienne-du-Mont (near the Pantheon) which I’d seen gorgeous photos of from Sally (SFowler) and indeed it is stunning inside: all airy & light with the white stone inside resembling bone, the bones the hold the church upright. The exterior of the church is beautiful, too, with its gothic-baroque-Renaissance styles; would you call this flamboyant gothic perhaps? I took some gorgeous shots of it outside against the backdrop of sunny day.
This seemed to become the Day of Churches as I found I visited four others:
St Ephrem (a Syrian Catholic church),
Eglise Orthodox Roumaine,
St-Severin, and
St-Julien-le-Pauvre.
Eglise St Ephrem Paroisse Syriaque Catholique came as a surprise to me. I stumbled upon it on my way to see the Hotel St-Jacques. There it was tucked away on rue des Carmes, a church I’d never read about in any of my guidebooks. It was a little spooky going inside; not a soul in sight but there was music to greet me and the interior was rather dark, gloomy & foreboding. I stuck around to take some photos waiting for someone to show up but they never did so I skeedaddled.
Afterwards, I popped into the Hotel St-Jacques, the hotel featured in the Audrey Hepburn/Cary Grant classic Charade. The elevator is no longer there so I asked the lady if this was indeed the hotel shown in the movie & she averred that it was.
Next it was off to visit the Musee de Cluny, one of my favorite museums in Paris and one that my son hopes to visit because of its medieval architecture, art & accoutrements. Took photos of the Lady & the Unicorn tapestries (photography allowed if you don’t use flash), the Heads of the Kings of Judah statues that were torn off of Notre Dame during the Revolution (I’d missed this somehow last time), the stained glass that came from Ste-Chapelle (fascinating to see it all up close and doesn’t this fit well into the church theme?) and the royal & knightly articles. My son should be happy for the time being with the photos of the coats of mail & shields that I took for him.
I’d never seen the interiors of St-Severin or St-Julien-le-Pauvre so I definitely had to visit these. St-Severin surprised me with its soaring ribbed vaults inside and beautiful stained glass. I’ve since read that these windows are old but they look very modern to me, rather Chagall-like in their rendering. I must’ve been churched out by the time I hit St-Julien-le-Pauvre because it struck me as too gothic with its doom-and-gloom interior. They were gearing up for a Chopin recital that night. Perhaps I would’ve enjoyed it more under those circumstances but I was off to the movies that night per David Sedaris’ suggestion.
I’ve mentioned before the nice, friendly helpful global staff at Le Village. People from Brazil & different places worked there with one of the guys being a HUGE cinéphile like me. The night before I’d sat at one of the tables reading the Me Talk Pretty One Day and I was laughing out loud. He asked me what it was about which turned into a long discussion about movies & the theatres in Paris. He was then kind enough to help me find a movie for Friday. It was decided I’d see an old Marilyn Monroe flick, one I’d never seen, called Niagara.
So I took David Sedaris’ advice and saw a film that Friday night. Indeed, he's right. There was tons of talking in the theatre but the *moment* the title flashed across the screen all is still and quiet, utter silent bliss. At the theater I attended, Action Ecoles at 23 rue des Ecoles (just down the street from the Hotel St-Jacques), the seats were comfy with tall backs in red plush velvet. No small wonder that they don’t serve refreshments here, at least I didn’t see any. I've always told people that I have some sort of magnet that attracts the loudest people in the theatres to sit RIGHTBEHINDME. But here in Paris about the only sound you'll hear will be polite laughter during the funny parts. This alone makes me want to live in Paris!
Here’s the website that the gentleman at Le Village used to help me find a movie. It notes all the movies that are showing in Paris, an invaluable service:
http://www.seances.org
After the movie I decided to have dinner southern style, a late breakfast at Breakfast in America. It, too, is located on rue des Ecoles (17). If you hanker for eggs & bacon, American style, this is the place to be. Don’t be surprised if you find the place filled to the brim, as I did, with French teenagers all eating Club sandwiches!
Mar 21st, 2006, 04:02 PM
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I have really been enjoying your trip report and especially was glad to see the pictures of St. Severin. We are going in May and staying at the Hotel Parc St. Severin. Your photos are gorgeous.
Mar 22nd, 2006, 02:57 AM
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Beatchick,
More wonderful pictures to begin the day!! Thank you!! And yes, do put "Cinema Paradiso-Director's Cut" on your Netflix list...Mary, you will enjoy this in a very special way, loving the movies as you do...
More wonderful pictures to begin the day!! Thank you!! And yes, do put "Cinema Paradiso-Director's Cut" on your Netflix list...Mary, you will enjoy this in a very special way, loving the movies as you do...
