Never been to Parma, but we've just booked an apartment in a restored palace next to the Duomo(Pallazo dalla Rosa Prati). Can anyone share the little surprises and comforts of Parma ? So far we've only figured out places to eat in.

I recently saw an episode on Parma on Rudy Maxa's Travels in Europe. It looks like a wonderful place. He toured a Parmesan cheese making place and it looked interesting. I think RM also went to Bologna from there and it is now on my future travel list.

Parmesan & Prosciutto are definitely the few comforts we're counting on when we get to Parma. I also understand that it is a university town so there should be more fun things to do.

We spent two nights in Parma last September and loved it! Besides great eating there's lots to see and there's a wonderful park for strolling. Here's the link to our trip report http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34532657

Marija
Enjoyed reading your report, thanks! It's good to know that Parma made that much impression on you. We are going there simply out of curiosity since we kept passing by the city on our previous trips.

Dax, I booked the same palazzo in Parma in late May. When are you going? Would love to hear what you think of staying there. How long are you staying there? The location looks dynamite. I am researching what to see now in the usual guidebooks. Bon voyage!

These aren't exactly unknown treasures (and I must admit that the local hero Correggio isn't really one of my favorite artists), but for art don't miss the Baptistery and Duomo or the Camera del Correggio. Also, I don't know whether you'll be there during the opera season, but the opera house there is known for its demanding and highly vocal audience, so that could be an experience.

If you're looking for a day trip from Parma, then Mantua is picturesque.

Thanks KT & Smalti, we are actually planning to drive to Mantua after Parma. Sorry Gariem it looks like you'll be there before we will. How did you find the Palazzo?

Here's a link to guided visits to see Parmigiano-Reggiano made:

http://www.parmigiano-reggiano.it/vi...enotazioni.cfm

There's also a Consorzio del Prosciutto di Parma, but it doesn't seem to offer tours.

Personally, I found Modena a more appealing town than Mantua, and I seem to recall that someone or other offers tours of places that make balsamic vinegar.

Thanks Eloise. We had a nice comfortable stay in Modena in 1989. I'm curious why Mantua gets mixed reviews, can you tell me more?

Here's my strictly personal impression of Mantua.

A good part of the inner city is modern. As I recall, there is one church, Sant'Andrea by Alberti, in among the modernity. Then there is the really quite small historical centre. I remember an early round church that was closed and some kind of old municipal building. These two have an oblong "square" in front of them, with a café and a modest restaurant. A few steps further along is the "main" square of Mantua, on which the Palace of the Gonzaga faces. It's not a very friendly-looking palace, downright gloomy, in fact, and it seems to go on for miles along the side of the square. The Gonzagas, of course, went bankrupt at one point and had to sell their art collection -- to Charles I of England, as I recall -- so there is very little left in the palace that is of interest. With the exception of Mantegna's wonderfully frescoed Camera dei Sposi, which is well worth seeing. So, I was told, are the apartments of Isabella (I think that was her name...) but they were not open when I was there. Behind the palace is a not very well tended park. There's also a church on the main square.

Away from the centre, there is the Palazzo dal Te (sp?), which is very interesting: full of frescoed rooms, some of them quite unusual, including the Sala dei Giganti. Close to the Palazzo is what is called the house of Mantegna. There was some kind of civic reception going on, so I wasn't able to get beyond the courtyard. (Do you see a pattern emerging here?)

Mantua is surrounded by lakes and canals, but I have to admit I never made it to the "shores."

It does not seem to be very rich in restaurants; there are a few in the very old part of town behind the palace, into which I did not venture. I did go to one excellent -- and fairly expensive -- restaurant that was recommended to me, but for the life of me, I can't remember the name. It was in the "newer" part of town and faced on a small park, if that is any help.

Hotels are also not numerous in Mantua. I stayed at the very dull, very boring, businessmen's type hotel called, I think, the Hotel Mantegna. The rooms were small, and the soundproofing was less than excellent.

A little bit of googling has produced the following information about the restaurant mentioned above: Il Cigno, Piazza d'Arco, 1, tel. 0376.327101. Closed Monday and Tuesday, according to the Web site I found it on.

Near Mantua is a small town built by one of the Gonzaga dukes, called Sabbionetta (sp?), which is all of the same period --- early Baroque, I think -- and now pretty well uninhabitd. Without a car, it would have been difficult to get to, so I gave it a miss.

And that's about as much as I remember without consulting my guidebooks, which are at home, while I am at the office.

Your impression confirms my expectation of Mantua. I'm glad we'll be staying in Verona as we can't find any decent hotel to book in Mantua. I suppose half a day is plenty to see Mantua. I will use your restaurant recommendation. Thanks again.