Paris trip
Aug 30th, 2005 | 10:28 AM
#1
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Joined: May 2005
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Paris trip
We've just got back from a weekend in Paris. We had such a good time I couldn't resist posting a report.
We should do it more often as it is only a few hours from London by Eurostar. We have always driven to France but I didn't fancy the Paris traffic and as it turned out Eurostar was so convenient.
Thanks for the recommendations on this website for Le Regent, it was a short Metro ride from Gare du Nord to Odeon and no need to change line. We settled for the standard rooms which 'though small were fine for a weekend stay with corresponding baggage. I agree they would be a little cramped if you had more and larger baggage for a longer stay. We took advantage of the July/August 15% discount which was good value at 112 Euros per room per night. The Hotel is altering it's lift from November '05 through January '06 (I think-check their website). I believe to extend it down to the ground floor (currently it stops at the first floor). During this period they are offering a 40% discount. Again a good deal if you can get a room on the first or maybe second floors! It is the sort of hotel to stay at if you intend to be out most of the day (who wouldn't in Paris?)as there are no significant public areas so I guess noise shouldn't be too much of a problem, unless you have been clubbing the night before and want a lay-in!
Although we only did routine "stuff" (of which I'll post more later) I was so impressed that I was moved to write.
I'm being called to dinner so I'll return to the posting later.
Hoggy
We should do it more often as it is only a few hours from London by Eurostar. We have always driven to France but I didn't fancy the Paris traffic and as it turned out Eurostar was so convenient.
Thanks for the recommendations on this website for Le Regent, it was a short Metro ride from Gare du Nord to Odeon and no need to change line. We settled for the standard rooms which 'though small were fine for a weekend stay with corresponding baggage. I agree they would be a little cramped if you had more and larger baggage for a longer stay. We took advantage of the July/August 15% discount which was good value at 112 Euros per room per night. The Hotel is altering it's lift from November '05 through January '06 (I think-check their website). I believe to extend it down to the ground floor (currently it stops at the first floor). During this period they are offering a 40% discount. Again a good deal if you can get a room on the first or maybe second floors! It is the sort of hotel to stay at if you intend to be out most of the day (who wouldn't in Paris?)as there are no significant public areas so I guess noise shouldn't be too much of a problem, unless you have been clubbing the night before and want a lay-in!
Although we only did routine "stuff" (of which I'll post more later) I was so impressed that I was moved to write.
I'm being called to dinner so I'll return to the posting later.
Hoggy
Aug 31st, 2005 | 10:25 AM
#4
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Joined: May 2005
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Fortunately no pickpockets Elaine! As some responses on the other posting say, It is a problem in pretty much all major Towns. As a city-boy myself, I like to think I'm fairly savvy about such things. It was also safer as most of the time we stayed in our group of five.
It was only after my earlier posting that I heard how bad things are in New Orleans and the surrounding areas. It now seems a bit shallow to write about the good time we had. However, I guess life has to go on and enjoying ourselves doesn't stop us thinking and wishing the best for all the people out there.
Anyway, picking up from where I left off...as I said we only did the routine tourist stuff. We arrived at our Hotel on the Friday morning at 10.30. Too early to check in but we were able to leave our luggage in a locked room on the ground floor. We went for a stroll in the surrounding area and then generally in the direction of lunch.
I had booked an early table (as we were also eating out later!) at Chamarre (acute accent on the 'e')a French/Mauritian restaurant near Invalides, a Michelin one star establishment. The basic Lunch menu is 40 Euros for a small selection of alternatives from three courses. Or only 28 Euros if you leave the selection to the chef. The waiter explained the chef's proposals and we couldn't resist the bargain.
As with most Michelin places there was an "amuse bouche" comprising of a mussel sat on a crispy sun dried tomato topped with a lightly spiced creamy dressing, plus a small scoup of what was like fine fish rillets on a disc of parcooked and slightly crunchy root vegetable. They both went down very nicely with our Kir apperatives. This was followed by a pre appetiser of a creamy sea-urcin mousse topped with finely chopped olives and alfalfa (I think) and was lovely also.
The actual first course was raw sea bass beaten flat and was searved almost as if it had been poured on the plate topped with a variety of sauces and small shrimp.
The entree was chicken breast roasted with curry leaves tucked under the skin served with rice and diced vegetables in a curry sauce. Dessert was the ubiquitous creme brulee but the custard was cool and creamy and the caramelised topping was just lightly crispy without being overcooked.
Wine can always escalate the price of a meal and leave you wondering what happened to the bargain. As it was lunch, we settled for one glass each and there was a fair if not large selection by the glass. I opted for a grand cru Riesling from Alsace. I didn't recognise the grower but it was very fine, and at 12 Euros for a fair sized (not measured) glass it was good value. Bottles started at about 30-35 Euros as I recall but I preferred less quantity and better quality.
Of course you can't expect restaurants to offer their most elaborate cuisine at these prices. However, what I love about Michelin Starred restaurant value lunches is that you always (in my experience so far) get the finest produce cooked and seasoned to perfection (by my standards anyway).
After lunch we spent the afternoon in Musee D'Orsay, perhaps the highlight of the weekend for me but more of this later, it seems to be dinner time again!
Hoggy
It was only after my earlier posting that I heard how bad things are in New Orleans and the surrounding areas. It now seems a bit shallow to write about the good time we had. However, I guess life has to go on and enjoying ourselves doesn't stop us thinking and wishing the best for all the people out there.
Anyway, picking up from where I left off...as I said we only did the routine tourist stuff. We arrived at our Hotel on the Friday morning at 10.30. Too early to check in but we were able to leave our luggage in a locked room on the ground floor. We went for a stroll in the surrounding area and then generally in the direction of lunch.
I had booked an early table (as we were also eating out later!) at Chamarre (acute accent on the 'e')a French/Mauritian restaurant near Invalides, a Michelin one star establishment. The basic Lunch menu is 40 Euros for a small selection of alternatives from three courses. Or only 28 Euros if you leave the selection to the chef. The waiter explained the chef's proposals and we couldn't resist the bargain.
As with most Michelin places there was an "amuse bouche" comprising of a mussel sat on a crispy sun dried tomato topped with a lightly spiced creamy dressing, plus a small scoup of what was like fine fish rillets on a disc of parcooked and slightly crunchy root vegetable. They both went down very nicely with our Kir apperatives. This was followed by a pre appetiser of a creamy sea-urcin mousse topped with finely chopped olives and alfalfa (I think) and was lovely also.
The actual first course was raw sea bass beaten flat and was searved almost as if it had been poured on the plate topped with a variety of sauces and small shrimp.
The entree was chicken breast roasted with curry leaves tucked under the skin served with rice and diced vegetables in a curry sauce. Dessert was the ubiquitous creme brulee but the custard was cool and creamy and the caramelised topping was just lightly crispy without being overcooked.
Wine can always escalate the price of a meal and leave you wondering what happened to the bargain. As it was lunch, we settled for one glass each and there was a fair if not large selection by the glass. I opted for a grand cru Riesling from Alsace. I didn't recognise the grower but it was very fine, and at 12 Euros for a fair sized (not measured) glass it was good value. Bottles started at about 30-35 Euros as I recall but I preferred less quantity and better quality.
Of course you can't expect restaurants to offer their most elaborate cuisine at these prices. However, what I love about Michelin Starred restaurant value lunches is that you always (in my experience so far) get the finest produce cooked and seasoned to perfection (by my standards anyway).
After lunch we spent the afternoon in Musee D'Orsay, perhaps the highlight of the weekend for me but more of this later, it seems to be dinner time again!
Hoggy
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Aug 31st, 2005 | 04:31 PM
#9
Joined: Jan 2003
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Hi,
The raw sea bass got me, but I'm sure it was delicious. I had raw sea urcine in Greece. There was a lady who dove for sea urcins for about an hour. She had a big net full of them. She and her friend then proceeded to open them, clean then, and eat the roe. She kindly offered us some roe and it was surprisingly good. Quiet sweet. Your lunch sounds wonderful.
The raw sea bass got me, but I'm sure it was delicious. I had raw sea urcine in Greece. There was a lady who dove for sea urcins for about an hour. She had a big net full of them. She and her friend then proceeded to open them, clean then, and eat the roe. She kindly offered us some roe and it was surprisingly good. Quiet sweet. Your lunch sounds wonderful.
Sep 1st, 2005 | 01:46 PM
#10
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Joined: May 2005
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I have to say I was a bit worried about the sea urchin cream/mousse but it was a very subtle taste, only a flavouring to the cream.
Returning to our day 1. After lunch we strolled to Musee D'Orsay. I recall it was about 2.30 and not much of a queue!! I had not been before but had checked out their web site so was expecting the "advertised" masterworks.
What I was not prepared for was room after room full of Monet, Manet, Renoir, Degas, etc...I know very little about art but seeing so many famous works at such close quarters and in particular some of the pastels, had me fighting back tears.
As a relief from this emotional impact it was also nice to see the view of Sacre Coeur from the roof (and interestingly through the glass clocks). On the way down from the towers the display of art nouveau architecture and furniture was very interesting, especially the timber panelled room. I thought the beam and column carvings echo the Galleries Lafayette dome structure which was even more impressive.
A little weary we returned to our hotel to check in, shower and change. Then off to dinner.
A short walk from the hotel and we arrived at Le Relais L'Entrecote at about 7.30pm (my wife loves steak frites and we were reliably informed this is THE place to go for nothing but)
No bookings and the pavement tables were full, however we (five) were immediately seated "a l'interieur" but near the fold away doors so it was like being outside. By 8.30 to 9.00pm there was a longish queue. We, on the other hand were, by then, tackling our main course (steak and chips-you guessed!) after the lettuce salad appetiser which was nicely dressed and sprinkled with walnuts.
When you complete your main course you are invited to finish the leftovers. This is effectively another full plate of steak and chips so come hungry. There is a choice of deserts and our waitress recommended the profiteroles to a lady at the next table. I ordered this on the basis that you always end up wanting what someone on the next table has anyway. I convinced myself this was the reason as I usually find profiteroles boring and like eating damp cardboard. But our waitress was correct (and frankly rather attractive, as were all her smartly uniformed collegues), the choux pastry was light and filled with vanilla ice cream topped with a warm chocolate sauce liberally coating slithered almonds. I believe the three courses (or four if you count the double main course!) came to 21 Euros. You can decide to have either starter and main, or main and desert for I think about 17 Euros.
There is a simple and well priced wine list in keeping with the kind of food on offer. All in all a very enjoyable and affordable evening.
As we left I heard live jazz from the restaurant opposite, Le Bilbouquet. I had drawn a blank when searching the web for live jazz in August. For example L'Arbuci, just down the road, is open but with no live music. Consequently I was delighted with this "find" and determined to convince my fellow travellers to return the next evening for dinner. However it was the end of a long and wonderful day and I decided to wait until I had recharged my powers of persuation.
It is now also the end of a long (and not quite so wonderful) day so I will sign off and continue anon.
Hoggy
Returning to our day 1. After lunch we strolled to Musee D'Orsay. I recall it was about 2.30 and not much of a queue!! I had not been before but had checked out their web site so was expecting the "advertised" masterworks.
What I was not prepared for was room after room full of Monet, Manet, Renoir, Degas, etc...I know very little about art but seeing so many famous works at such close quarters and in particular some of the pastels, had me fighting back tears.
As a relief from this emotional impact it was also nice to see the view of Sacre Coeur from the roof (and interestingly through the glass clocks). On the way down from the towers the display of art nouveau architecture and furniture was very interesting, especially the timber panelled room. I thought the beam and column carvings echo the Galleries Lafayette dome structure which was even more impressive.
A little weary we returned to our hotel to check in, shower and change. Then off to dinner.
A short walk from the hotel and we arrived at Le Relais L'Entrecote at about 7.30pm (my wife loves steak frites and we were reliably informed this is THE place to go for nothing but)
No bookings and the pavement tables were full, however we (five) were immediately seated "a l'interieur" but near the fold away doors so it was like being outside. By 8.30 to 9.00pm there was a longish queue. We, on the other hand were, by then, tackling our main course (steak and chips-you guessed!) after the lettuce salad appetiser which was nicely dressed and sprinkled with walnuts.
When you complete your main course you are invited to finish the leftovers. This is effectively another full plate of steak and chips so come hungry. There is a choice of deserts and our waitress recommended the profiteroles to a lady at the next table. I ordered this on the basis that you always end up wanting what someone on the next table has anyway. I convinced myself this was the reason as I usually find profiteroles boring and like eating damp cardboard. But our waitress was correct (and frankly rather attractive, as were all her smartly uniformed collegues), the choux pastry was light and filled with vanilla ice cream topped with a warm chocolate sauce liberally coating slithered almonds. I believe the three courses (or four if you count the double main course!) came to 21 Euros. You can decide to have either starter and main, or main and desert for I think about 17 Euros.
There is a simple and well priced wine list in keeping with the kind of food on offer. All in all a very enjoyable and affordable evening.
As we left I heard live jazz from the restaurant opposite, Le Bilbouquet. I had drawn a blank when searching the web for live jazz in August. For example L'Arbuci, just down the road, is open but with no live music. Consequently I was delighted with this "find" and determined to convince my fellow travellers to return the next evening for dinner. However it was the end of a long and wonderful day and I decided to wait until I had recharged my powers of persuation.
It is now also the end of a long (and not quite so wonderful) day so I will sign off and continue anon.
Hoggy
Sep 1st, 2005 | 02:50 PM
#12
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 122
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What a lovely report on Paris Hoggy. I am green with envy! It takes between 26 and 30 hours to arrive in Paris from Australia!!
I identify completely with your emotions at the D'orsay! The first time I went there I saw a Van Gogh under the light of the skylight above and have loved his paintings ever since. So so different to see the real thing isnt it.
I also identify with the jazz 'discovery'. Most of my best travel experiences have been the surprises. In Paris recently we stopped at a very ordinary restaurant suffering exhaustion from a long day and there was a table of about 30 young people suddenly burst into song. It was a marvellous achapello performance!! Renewed my spirits at the time. Another extraordinary experience in Paris was visiting Notre Dame and hearing a rehearsal for Mendlesshon's "Elijah".
Thanks for sharing your weekend. Brings back happy memories!!
I identify completely with your emotions at the D'orsay! The first time I went there I saw a Van Gogh under the light of the skylight above and have loved his paintings ever since. So so different to see the real thing isnt it.
I also identify with the jazz 'discovery'. Most of my best travel experiences have been the surprises. In Paris recently we stopped at a very ordinary restaurant suffering exhaustion from a long day and there was a table of about 30 young people suddenly burst into song. It was a marvellous achapello performance!! Renewed my spirits at the time. Another extraordinary experience in Paris was visiting Notre Dame and hearing a rehearsal for Mendlesshon's "Elijah".
Thanks for sharing your weekend. Brings back happy memories!!
Sep 3rd, 2005 | 04:51 AM
#13
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Joined: May 2005
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Thanks for all the encouragement.
Day 2 started with some excitement. Whilst crossing PontNeuf we noticed what appeared to be someone swimming to anothers aid in the Seine. This was adjacent to one of the high, shear walls not the lower sloping banks. Two lady gendarmes were on the scene and rushing to a nearby sloping bank. As they got near to the edge one slipped on the green algae out of view. The next thing we saw was her attempting to swim but hampered by her uniform. We were beginning to get concerned as there was no sign of a boat to come to the rescue. Then three turned up at once (a bit like London busses). Having picked up the original "couple" it turned out to be one person. It seems their rucksack fell into the river and they went in after it. They must have made their sandwiches with Poilane bread! Still, all ended well.
We moved on taking the metro up to the shops (Bd Haussmann). I thought it would be a good idea to get breakfast at Galleries Layfayette...WRONG. The cafe/restaurants only open for lunch and there was just a counter selling coffee, tea and pastries. Anyway it kept us going and the free rooftop view and the interior of the domed atrium was worth the visit.
We continued along to Printemps which is a little more upmarket. But shopping isn't really my thing.
Back to the metro and Champs Elysee walking the last few hundred yards. Lunch at a sandwich bar (NOT Poilane bread but a view of the Arc and people watching is always a nice distraction).
Back to the metro again (we were trying to cram in as much as possible) and off to Sacre Coeur. Nice though it is, I think its biggest asset is when it is part of the view.
I enjoyed a short stroll around Montmartre as although the art is now mostly a bit tacky there is still a lively atmosphere helped on this occasion by a street chanteuse singing and whistling traditional French songs.
Back down the funicular rail and off to Montparnasse Tower where you get a great panoramic view on a clear day (which it was).
That was enough for one day and besides I was still hoping to convince everyone to go to Le Bilbouquet so needed to get back for a quick rest and shower.
I succeeded and whilst without reservation we were immediately seated on the balcony (no direct view of the musicians but we were in!).
My sister-in-law found the menu limited and expensive. I sympathised to some extent(mains were steak tartare, a kind of burger, a fillet steak, roast chicken breast with a curry sauce, fish in beurre blanc sauce, Lamb cutlets and pasta in a cream cheese sauce) However it is a jazz club and a more extensive menu would probably be too ambitious. Also, the prices "include" the entertainment. On reflection I think for some reason she was determined not to enjoy herself (maybe I railroaded rather than persuaded her to go).
I have to say that any regrets I may have had were quickly forgotten as I had a bloody fantastic time!! I started with gaspacho which was fine, not withstanding a delay in the provision of bread (odd perhaps for a french establishment but not uncommon,I have found, in clubby sorts of restaurants where the waiting staff often get distracted with lots of people just ordering lots of drinks).
I followed with the chicken which was delicious and finished with good old creme brulee.
The music was very good (mostly American classics-Porter,Gershwin etc but with some French cabaret numbers for good measure).
I believe the place is popular with American tourists and indeed there were two American ladies there, one of whom was celebrating her birthday. The singer had been touting for drinks on and off during the evening (double Jack Daniels was his preference). However he gratefully announced his acceptance of a bottle of champagne from the birthday girl. The cheapest on the menu was 130 Euros, most kind and not to mention generous! I trust the difficulty the singer experienced in joining the band in the right key and at the right time with a chorus of "Happy Birthday" was only due to a slightly "over oiled" voice box.
When we finally left I couldnt't help noticing the above mentioned ladies were really dressed-to-kill. Judging from the look my wife gave me as I peered at them from the balcony, they nearly succeeded.
When re-reading this it does sound a little seedy but it really was a fun evening and I will definately go again.
I was grateful for a short walk back to Le Regent and a comfortable bed at the end of a long day. Notre Dame and the Louvre awaited tomorrow.
Hoggy
Day 2 started with some excitement. Whilst crossing PontNeuf we noticed what appeared to be someone swimming to anothers aid in the Seine. This was adjacent to one of the high, shear walls not the lower sloping banks. Two lady gendarmes were on the scene and rushing to a nearby sloping bank. As they got near to the edge one slipped on the green algae out of view. The next thing we saw was her attempting to swim but hampered by her uniform. We were beginning to get concerned as there was no sign of a boat to come to the rescue. Then three turned up at once (a bit like London busses). Having picked up the original "couple" it turned out to be one person. It seems their rucksack fell into the river and they went in after it. They must have made their sandwiches with Poilane bread! Still, all ended well.
We moved on taking the metro up to the shops (Bd Haussmann). I thought it would be a good idea to get breakfast at Galleries Layfayette...WRONG. The cafe/restaurants only open for lunch and there was just a counter selling coffee, tea and pastries. Anyway it kept us going and the free rooftop view and the interior of the domed atrium was worth the visit.
We continued along to Printemps which is a little more upmarket. But shopping isn't really my thing.
Back to the metro and Champs Elysee walking the last few hundred yards. Lunch at a sandwich bar (NOT Poilane bread but a view of the Arc and people watching is always a nice distraction).
Back to the metro again (we were trying to cram in as much as possible) and off to Sacre Coeur. Nice though it is, I think its biggest asset is when it is part of the view.
I enjoyed a short stroll around Montmartre as although the art is now mostly a bit tacky there is still a lively atmosphere helped on this occasion by a street chanteuse singing and whistling traditional French songs.
Back down the funicular rail and off to Montparnasse Tower where you get a great panoramic view on a clear day (which it was).
That was enough for one day and besides I was still hoping to convince everyone to go to Le Bilbouquet so needed to get back for a quick rest and shower.
I succeeded and whilst without reservation we were immediately seated on the balcony (no direct view of the musicians but we were in!).
My sister-in-law found the menu limited and expensive. I sympathised to some extent(mains were steak tartare, a kind of burger, a fillet steak, roast chicken breast with a curry sauce, fish in beurre blanc sauce, Lamb cutlets and pasta in a cream cheese sauce) However it is a jazz club and a more extensive menu would probably be too ambitious. Also, the prices "include" the entertainment. On reflection I think for some reason she was determined not to enjoy herself (maybe I railroaded rather than persuaded her to go).
I have to say that any regrets I may have had were quickly forgotten as I had a bloody fantastic time!! I started with gaspacho which was fine, not withstanding a delay in the provision of bread (odd perhaps for a french establishment but not uncommon,I have found, in clubby sorts of restaurants where the waiting staff often get distracted with lots of people just ordering lots of drinks).
I followed with the chicken which was delicious and finished with good old creme brulee.
The music was very good (mostly American classics-Porter,Gershwin etc but with some French cabaret numbers for good measure).
I believe the place is popular with American tourists and indeed there were two American ladies there, one of whom was celebrating her birthday. The singer had been touting for drinks on and off during the evening (double Jack Daniels was his preference). However he gratefully announced his acceptance of a bottle of champagne from the birthday girl. The cheapest on the menu was 130 Euros, most kind and not to mention generous! I trust the difficulty the singer experienced in joining the band in the right key and at the right time with a chorus of "Happy Birthday" was only due to a slightly "over oiled" voice box.
When we finally left I couldnt't help noticing the above mentioned ladies were really dressed-to-kill. Judging from the look my wife gave me as I peered at them from the balcony, they nearly succeeded.
When re-reading this it does sound a little seedy but it really was a fun evening and I will definately go again.
I was grateful for a short walk back to Le Regent and a comfortable bed at the end of a long day. Notre Dame and the Louvre awaited tomorrow.
Hoggy
Sep 3rd, 2005 | 05:48 AM
#15
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 43
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Hi Tod,
I think there was only one entrance to the viewing deck. I recall coming out of the metro, crossing the road toward the tower which is also surrounded by a low rise block. I think we went along the left side nearly to the rear of the block before reaching the entrance and the ticket lobby. I am sure it must have been quite well signposted as we had not got a detailed map. The surrounding area was nothing to write home about and I don't think I'd like to be wandering around there late at night (only a feeling/general observation. We didn't hang around after visiting the tower).
Hoggy
I think there was only one entrance to the viewing deck. I recall coming out of the metro, crossing the road toward the tower which is also surrounded by a low rise block. I think we went along the left side nearly to the rear of the block before reaching the entrance and the ticket lobby. I am sure it must have been quite well signposted as we had not got a detailed map. The surrounding area was nothing to write home about and I don't think I'd like to be wandering around there late at night (only a feeling/general observation. We didn't hang around after visiting the tower).
Hoggy
Sep 4th, 2005 | 05:37 AM
#18
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,605
Likes: 0
The view from the Montparnasse observation terrace is an absolutely 'must-see'! It's a complete 360* overview, including the Eiffel Tower, wide open roof top, easier to go up (no lines) and about 8 euro. The elevator lets out at the enclosed cafe/bar, then you take a stairwell to go up the rest of the way.
Might as well add a meander through the Montparnasse Cemetery, and a stroll along rue Daguerre (start at Denfert; avoid Mondays), while you're at it.
http://www.tourmontparnasse56.com/
http://www.visions-de-paris.com/gale...-montparnasse/
http://www.daguerre-village.com/
Might as well add a meander through the Montparnasse Cemetery, and a stroll along rue Daguerre (start at Denfert; avoid Mondays), while you're at it.
http://www.tourmontparnasse56.com/
http://www.visions-de-paris.com/gale...-montparnasse/
http://www.daguerre-village.com/
