Paris Glitters
Dec 16th, 2012, 12:20 AM
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Paris Glitters
This the first time writing on this forum, but I read it almost daily.
So thank you to all of you that contribute. I have learned so much not to mention being on many fabulous journeys with you via your trip reports.
As we are reminded during the Christmas season it is good to give….
So now, in the spirit of giving back, I am officially signed on to Fodor’s and writing my trip report of my nearly 3 weeks in Paris last December.
Here goes….
I was hesitant to go in December as it is cold (I’m a bit of a cold wussy) and it gets dark early so I thought for some crazy reason that would limit my time enjoying Paris.
I was wrong on both thoughts. As long as you dress for it, the cold is no problem and dark just meant the lights were on which made Paris sparkle.
If anyone has any hesitation like I did- my advice is GO!
It was fantastic-Paris was all aglow. A very nostalgic feel of Christmas for me. I grew up in southern California and Paris in December reminded me of Hollywood and downtown LA in the 60s before the commercialism of malls and all the wake up at the crack of dawn non-stop sales promotions.
My travel companion was my sister (technically SIL, but we dropped the SIL long time ago). We have traveled together many times, taking our first trip together when we were 18 yrs old, some 37 years ago. We are simpatico in our travel ways. This was our 4th trip to Paris for each of us.
Upon arrival at CDG we decided to take the RER into Paris as we both were traveling light with one carryon bag and a tote. It was our first time to take the RER and it was super easy. When we emerged from the underground to a bright sunny brisk Paris the first thing we saw was the gold statues of Pont Alexander shining brightly against a blue sky.
WOW, what a beautiful welcome back to the city that has captured my heart.
We easily strolled with our luggage to our apt in the 7th on Rue St Dominique. We have never stayed in the 7th and absolutely loved it. The Eiffel Tower shown bright at the end of our street welcoming us home each night and with Christmas lights and decorations strung across our street it made for a very festive atmosphere for us two very blessed sisters to be in Paris in December.
It was nice being so close to rue Cler to get food and bring back to the apt. Down stairs from the apt we had our choice of 2 patisseries for our morning and sometimes evening delicious treats.
It was dark (and cold) in the mornings so we usually did not venture out until 10 or so after we had relaxing mornings of tea and pain chocolat and most mornings a nice breakfast or brunch to start the day.
There was a bus stop across the street from the apt and the metro stop La Tour Maubourg around the corner. We usually left the area by either bus or metro but found ourselves walking home most nights, across place Concord enjoying the Paris festive night all the way home.
Every day we started out with a plan, a grand agenda, most days we did at least one thing on that agenda and then let the day and evening unfold as Paris presented itself to us it all her splendor.
Well, except the first couple days, it was difficult finding that splendor.
After settling into the apt, we left with our shopping bags to rue Cler and the grocery store ½ block away from the apt. Back to the apt for a quick lunch, a bit warmer clothes and off to explore…
We find ourselves on Champs Elysees. It is buzzing with energy. The lights are spherical hoops of blue-kinda space age. It is overwhelming - a sea of humanity- probably not the best choice for our first outing- I blame it on jet leg-flying for 2 nights will mess with your thinking. First stop on agenda is the bathroom and macarons at Ladurees. As we approach we see a long, long line to get into the shop and a guard at the restaurant's entrance. We don’t like standing in long lines even if it is for those macarons, so ok, time to use my half French, half English and ask the guard about the restaurant -he understands me-miracle-and then rattles back in fluent French of course, and said - it is closed among other things I did not quite catch. So no macaroons, no bathroom. No matter, we are in PARIS, we can't be disappointed or grumpy.
Back in the flow of Champs Elysees we get pushed toward the Tuileries and the Christmas market. First impression of the Christmas market was it is like our local county fair. There are so many people it is hard to see the booths but what we do see is mostly food booths and everything from Christmas ornaments to Russian stackable dolls, mixed in with jewelry and the latest fantastic thing one might think they need.
But no matter, it is not the local county fair, we are in PARIS.
After a little while we head across the bridge back to our more peaceful neighborhood where a nightcap and a cozy bed await us.
So thank you to all of you that contribute. I have learned so much not to mention being on many fabulous journeys with you via your trip reports.
As we are reminded during the Christmas season it is good to give….
So now, in the spirit of giving back, I am officially signed on to Fodor’s and writing my trip report of my nearly 3 weeks in Paris last December.
Here goes….
I was hesitant to go in December as it is cold (I’m a bit of a cold wussy) and it gets dark early so I thought for some crazy reason that would limit my time enjoying Paris.
I was wrong on both thoughts. As long as you dress for it, the cold is no problem and dark just meant the lights were on which made Paris sparkle.
If anyone has any hesitation like I did- my advice is GO!
It was fantastic-Paris was all aglow. A very nostalgic feel of Christmas for me. I grew up in southern California and Paris in December reminded me of Hollywood and downtown LA in the 60s before the commercialism of malls and all the wake up at the crack of dawn non-stop sales promotions.
My travel companion was my sister (technically SIL, but we dropped the SIL long time ago). We have traveled together many times, taking our first trip together when we were 18 yrs old, some 37 years ago. We are simpatico in our travel ways. This was our 4th trip to Paris for each of us.
Upon arrival at CDG we decided to take the RER into Paris as we both were traveling light with one carryon bag and a tote. It was our first time to take the RER and it was super easy. When we emerged from the underground to a bright sunny brisk Paris the first thing we saw was the gold statues of Pont Alexander shining brightly against a blue sky.
WOW, what a beautiful welcome back to the city that has captured my heart.
We easily strolled with our luggage to our apt in the 7th on Rue St Dominique. We have never stayed in the 7th and absolutely loved it. The Eiffel Tower shown bright at the end of our street welcoming us home each night and with Christmas lights and decorations strung across our street it made for a very festive atmosphere for us two very blessed sisters to be in Paris in December.
It was nice being so close to rue Cler to get food and bring back to the apt. Down stairs from the apt we had our choice of 2 patisseries for our morning and sometimes evening delicious treats.
It was dark (and cold) in the mornings so we usually did not venture out until 10 or so after we had relaxing mornings of tea and pain chocolat and most mornings a nice breakfast or brunch to start the day.
There was a bus stop across the street from the apt and the metro stop La Tour Maubourg around the corner. We usually left the area by either bus or metro but found ourselves walking home most nights, across place Concord enjoying the Paris festive night all the way home.
Every day we started out with a plan, a grand agenda, most days we did at least one thing on that agenda and then let the day and evening unfold as Paris presented itself to us it all her splendor.
Well, except the first couple days, it was difficult finding that splendor.
After settling into the apt, we left with our shopping bags to rue Cler and the grocery store ½ block away from the apt. Back to the apt for a quick lunch, a bit warmer clothes and off to explore…
We find ourselves on Champs Elysees. It is buzzing with energy. The lights are spherical hoops of blue-kinda space age. It is overwhelming - a sea of humanity- probably not the best choice for our first outing- I blame it on jet leg-flying for 2 nights will mess with your thinking. First stop on agenda is the bathroom and macarons at Ladurees. As we approach we see a long, long line to get into the shop and a guard at the restaurant's entrance. We don’t like standing in long lines even if it is for those macarons, so ok, time to use my half French, half English and ask the guard about the restaurant -he understands me-miracle-and then rattles back in fluent French of course, and said - it is closed among other things I did not quite catch. So no macaroons, no bathroom. No matter, we are in PARIS, we can't be disappointed or grumpy.
Back in the flow of Champs Elysees we get pushed toward the Tuileries and the Christmas market. First impression of the Christmas market was it is like our local county fair. There are so many people it is hard to see the booths but what we do see is mostly food booths and everything from Christmas ornaments to Russian stackable dolls, mixed in with jewelry and the latest fantastic thing one might think they need.
But no matter, it is not the local county fair, we are in PARIS.
After a little while we head across the bridge back to our more peaceful neighborhood where a nightcap and a cozy bed await us.
Dec 16th, 2012, 04:32 AM
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Waiting for more...we had the best time in Paris a few years ago, in December. For me, i isn't the jet lag....I just don't care for the Champs Elysee and I do hate the Jetsonian blue light Christmas displays. But, we did have the most delicious potato dish at the Christmas market there last November....so good!
Your apartment is certainly in a great location, especially for dining at any of the Constant restaurants.
Can't wait to hear more.
Your apartment is certainly in a great location, especially for dining at any of the Constant restaurants.
Can't wait to hear more.
Dec 16th, 2012, 06:48 AM
#8
Paris at Christmas time sounds so inviting---of course, Paris at any time sounds inviting, but Christmas time would be so different from our usual Sept. trip.
The lights, the sparkling gifts, the tempting food.
MORE PLEASE!!
The lights, the sparkling gifts, the tempting food.
MORE PLEASE!!
Dec 16th, 2012, 09:58 AM
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Thank you for all your comments. I am in a different time zone then most so a nice thing to wake up to.
The adventure continues...
Woke up feeling good, and with the question-does the thought of a dream live bigger in the mind then in reality? Paris is loud, Paris is busy, Paris is a big city…where is the Paris of my mind? Today we are in search of that Paris and what we find is a kind soul…our Sri Lankan angel and the answer to our question.
After a relaxing morning we take the metro to our favorite puce Marché (flea market)- Vanves. In the jet lag not quite with it yet mode we forget the wise travelers creed…be aware of your surroundings. We get off the metro at the right stop but forget to pay attention to what exit we take. So we walk in what we think is the right direction but find no market. After asking 4 different people and being sent in the direction that seems not quite familiar but could be right, we end up at the Marche de Poisson. This is where we meet our Sir Lankan angel. After she heard the fish monger telling us the wrong way she took the time to listen to where we wanted to go. Of course it was very helpful that she spoke perfect English, and French and I am sure Sri Lankan-which amazes me-I want to be that person that can speak multiple languages fluently or even enough to be understood. She is at the market picking up fish for the dinner she is preparing for her niece coming from Switzerland to visit, but she has time and she offers to take us to the Puce Vanves. Just two bus rides away. WHAT? Two buses? How did we get so far off track? After she sees our expressions of amazement and concern about the two buses, she said “don’t worry, we will hop on the metro, that’s only a couple stops, no transfers” So off we go, dang she walks fast. She tells us she has lived in Paris for 14 years and works in the perfume dept of the Monoprix. She takes us all the way to the Puces Vanves and tells us to look her up next time we are in Paris and we can stay with her.
We arrive at the market just as the vendors were packing up. My sister finds a plaque that holds a little basin for holy water. It has a lily flower and stars on it. Later on we will learn the significance of this. I found nothing except the experience and feel really good about that.
Back to the apt to refresh and have lunch. But first we stop at the patisserie and pick up Baba aux Rhum and a baguette to make sandwiches using our leftover chicken and cheese from rue Cler. We also pick up some butter. The Baba aux Rhum is just okay-but you never know so we feel we can’t pass up the chance and have to try ALL the temptations out. The butter is fantastic.
We love our daily and sometimes twice a day stopping at the local patisserie,which is beautiful-the décor is dark hardwood with an old style cash register. The chance to feel like you live in the neighborhood - where after a few times they start to greet you like you do belong- for us is what makes staying in an apt over a hotel a great experience.
Today is Sunday, so it is off to the Marais as this is one of the few areas in Paris that will have shops open. The Marais is hopping. Lots of people. Lots of shops. Clothes and boots seem to draw our attention. We stop at Amorino for a gelato and just stroll the streets doing what we are so good at-“Leche Vitrine”-licking windows and our gelato-enjoying ourselves immensely.
We get a falafel at L’As, the famous tourist spot which is really darn good for how cheap it is.
We decide to take the bus home, not really sure where it will drop us off. It takes 3 tries for the bus driver to understand Rue St Dominique-reminds me of the quote from Mark Twain..."In Paris they just simply opened their eyes and stared when we spoke to them in French! We never did succeed in making those idiots understand their own language”. I understand it’s all me but I keep trying and the bus driver finally seems to understand me and said “oui oui”…and then drops us off at the end of the line in front of a bright, shinning ,sparkling Eiffel Tower. Ahhhhhhhh Paris.
In reflecting on the day, yes the reality is as good, if not better, then the dream.
The adventure continues...
Woke up feeling good, and with the question-does the thought of a dream live bigger in the mind then in reality? Paris is loud, Paris is busy, Paris is a big city…where is the Paris of my mind? Today we are in search of that Paris and what we find is a kind soul…our Sri Lankan angel and the answer to our question.
After a relaxing morning we take the metro to our favorite puce Marché (flea market)- Vanves. In the jet lag not quite with it yet mode we forget the wise travelers creed…be aware of your surroundings. We get off the metro at the right stop but forget to pay attention to what exit we take. So we walk in what we think is the right direction but find no market. After asking 4 different people and being sent in the direction that seems not quite familiar but could be right, we end up at the Marche de Poisson. This is where we meet our Sir Lankan angel. After she heard the fish monger telling us the wrong way she took the time to listen to where we wanted to go. Of course it was very helpful that she spoke perfect English, and French and I am sure Sri Lankan-which amazes me-I want to be that person that can speak multiple languages fluently or even enough to be understood. She is at the market picking up fish for the dinner she is preparing for her niece coming from Switzerland to visit, but she has time and she offers to take us to the Puce Vanves. Just two bus rides away. WHAT? Two buses? How did we get so far off track? After she sees our expressions of amazement and concern about the two buses, she said “don’t worry, we will hop on the metro, that’s only a couple stops, no transfers” So off we go, dang she walks fast. She tells us she has lived in Paris for 14 years and works in the perfume dept of the Monoprix. She takes us all the way to the Puces Vanves and tells us to look her up next time we are in Paris and we can stay with her.
We arrive at the market just as the vendors were packing up. My sister finds a plaque that holds a little basin for holy water. It has a lily flower and stars on it. Later on we will learn the significance of this. I found nothing except the experience and feel really good about that.
Back to the apt to refresh and have lunch. But first we stop at the patisserie and pick up Baba aux Rhum and a baguette to make sandwiches using our leftover chicken and cheese from rue Cler. We also pick up some butter. The Baba aux Rhum is just okay-but you never know so we feel we can’t pass up the chance and have to try ALL the temptations out. The butter is fantastic.
We love our daily and sometimes twice a day stopping at the local patisserie,which is beautiful-the décor is dark hardwood with an old style cash register. The chance to feel like you live in the neighborhood - where after a few times they start to greet you like you do belong- for us is what makes staying in an apt over a hotel a great experience.
Today is Sunday, so it is off to the Marais as this is one of the few areas in Paris that will have shops open. The Marais is hopping. Lots of people. Lots of shops. Clothes and boots seem to draw our attention. We stop at Amorino for a gelato and just stroll the streets doing what we are so good at-“Leche Vitrine”-licking windows and our gelato-enjoying ourselves immensely.
We get a falafel at L’As, the famous tourist spot which is really darn good for how cheap it is.
We decide to take the bus home, not really sure where it will drop us off. It takes 3 tries for the bus driver to understand Rue St Dominique-reminds me of the quote from Mark Twain..."In Paris they just simply opened their eyes and stared when we spoke to them in French! We never did succeed in making those idiots understand their own language”. I understand it’s all me but I keep trying and the bus driver finally seems to understand me and said “oui oui”…and then drops us off at the end of the line in front of a bright, shinning ,sparkling Eiffel Tower. Ahhhhhhhh Paris.
In reflecting on the day, yes the reality is as good, if not better, then the dream.
Dec 17th, 2012, 12:15 AM
#18
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Once again, thank you for your comments. It is really nice to share my trip with people who get the love of travel and Paris in particular. Makes me realize I should have signed on sooner to comment on the reports that some of you wrote that I have enjoyed.
Denise we did not make it to Café Constant even though it was on the list thanks to your trip reports.
We passed it many times but the timing was never right.
We tried one night to eat at Reeds once again based on your report, but it was full.
I am going back to Paris in July and they are both still on the list.
On the apt… it was an excellent location, very quiet, a little shabby on the furnishings but they were comfortable and the price was right. Good size for 2, but a tight fit for 4. This was my second time renting from Vacation in Paris. My experience with them has been really good. They are based in NJ and they send you the keys to the apt prior to you leaving for your trip which is nice as you can check in as soon as you arrive.
www.vacationinparis.com/apts/id_08.htm
We woke up very late so started the day with a nice brunch in the apt of cheese and mushroom omelets with that delicious butter and a fresh baguette, decided to add mimosas because, hmmm well, we are in Paris and that seemed a good enough reason.
First stop of the day was the Palais Royal. This is one of my favorite places in Paris. It is a very peaceful garden surrounded by beautiful buildings-one which was home to the French writer Colette in her later years. I read somewhere that she had lived in as many as 15 houses, all relatively humble houses but with beautiful gardens. When she was questioned why did she move so much she responded that if she could have a home on the Palais Royal she would never leave. The story goes that a fan read that, gave her his home and she never left.
I don’t know if that story is true but I like to think it is.
There is something about the gardens with the row of manicured lime trees that really appeals to me. If someone gave me a home, I would not leave either.
While in the summer you will see people sunning and reading in the chairs it was pretty deserted at this time of the year, but the trees and the beauty are still there.
We stroll around the perimeter of the gardens and check out the high end shops with fantastic window displays. The Serge Luten window was very whimsical. Two tall skinny hotel bell men dressed in bright red, one on either side of a tube of bright red lipstick. The window was outlined in very bright purple. That was the whole window display-and it worked.
Serge Luten is a French photographer, filmmaker turned perfume and beauty products designer and for those that can afford he puts out a limited Christmas perfume with a beautiful bottle. All you need to do is stand at the very intimidating darkened glass doors and they will open for you to enter…oh and whip out your credit card….maybe next time.
We next head to the Galerie Vivenne and Galerie Colbert. I read about these shopping passages in Fodor’s Degas trip report. I will not go into detail here as I believe you can still access his reports and he did an excellent job of describing all the passages in Paris. If you have not read his reports or visited the passages do yourself a favor and add to your list.
It is now about time for one of our favorite French rituals, Le gouter.-the break around 4:30 in the afternoon for something sweet.
We head over to Angelinas on Rue de Rivoli. On a previous trip we stayed across the Seine from Angelinas and spent a lot of time here. So this feels like a homecoming to us. We order the chocolat chaud and to be different a vanilla éclair. The chocolat is so thick and rich you really need to take your time and savor it-which is good for us because we need a rest.
Feeling good after that stop we continue down Rue de Rivoli and go to WH Smith bookstore and spend some time just browsing at all the great books.
Next we stop in at the Lalique store and look at all the beautiful things. I love the “face” jewelry. We learn that Renee Lalique's fiancé was the model for the “face”. I found the most perfect silver bracelet for me; it was beautiful and fit me perfectly-except it was 420 Euro, so no, it will not be gracing my wrist. Once again….maybe next time.
We then continued to Place Vendome. It was beautiful. All decked out in white light displays of graphic trees. We did not go around the square as it was getting cold so after we marveled at the lights we turned to head home.
Walking back up rue Castiglione we passed the Westin Hotel. I said quietly…let’s go in…so we looked at each other and we did.
Very good spontaneous move on our part. They had a winter wonderland in their inner courtyard. A sweet lonely mademoiselle invited us to sit at the café table and have some complimentary vin chaud and Christmas cookies. We stayed a while enjoying the setting and our good fortune to stumble on this beautiful, relaxing serendipitous moment that we had all to ourselves.
With an inner glow from the vin chaud we head home crossing Place de la Concorde which, with the ferris wheel, Christmas lights, Eiffel Tower and cars going around felt like we were in a light spectacular!
We are feeling pretty blessed right about now.
And tired.
Denise we did not make it to Café Constant even though it was on the list thanks to your trip reports.
We passed it many times but the timing was never right.
We tried one night to eat at Reeds once again based on your report, but it was full.
I am going back to Paris in July and they are both still on the list.
On the apt… it was an excellent location, very quiet, a little shabby on the furnishings but they were comfortable and the price was right. Good size for 2, but a tight fit for 4. This was my second time renting from Vacation in Paris. My experience with them has been really good. They are based in NJ and they send you the keys to the apt prior to you leaving for your trip which is nice as you can check in as soon as you arrive.
www.vacationinparis.com/apts/id_08.htm
We woke up very late so started the day with a nice brunch in the apt of cheese and mushroom omelets with that delicious butter and a fresh baguette, decided to add mimosas because, hmmm well, we are in Paris and that seemed a good enough reason.
First stop of the day was the Palais Royal. This is one of my favorite places in Paris. It is a very peaceful garden surrounded by beautiful buildings-one which was home to the French writer Colette in her later years. I read somewhere that she had lived in as many as 15 houses, all relatively humble houses but with beautiful gardens. When she was questioned why did she move so much she responded that if she could have a home on the Palais Royal she would never leave. The story goes that a fan read that, gave her his home and she never left.
I don’t know if that story is true but I like to think it is.
There is something about the gardens with the row of manicured lime trees that really appeals to me. If someone gave me a home, I would not leave either.
While in the summer you will see people sunning and reading in the chairs it was pretty deserted at this time of the year, but the trees and the beauty are still there.
We stroll around the perimeter of the gardens and check out the high end shops with fantastic window displays. The Serge Luten window was very whimsical. Two tall skinny hotel bell men dressed in bright red, one on either side of a tube of bright red lipstick. The window was outlined in very bright purple. That was the whole window display-and it worked.
Serge Luten is a French photographer, filmmaker turned perfume and beauty products designer and for those that can afford he puts out a limited Christmas perfume with a beautiful bottle. All you need to do is stand at the very intimidating darkened glass doors and they will open for you to enter…oh and whip out your credit card….maybe next time.
We next head to the Galerie Vivenne and Galerie Colbert. I read about these shopping passages in Fodor’s Degas trip report. I will not go into detail here as I believe you can still access his reports and he did an excellent job of describing all the passages in Paris. If you have not read his reports or visited the passages do yourself a favor and add to your list.
It is now about time for one of our favorite French rituals, Le gouter.-the break around 4:30 in the afternoon for something sweet.
We head over to Angelinas on Rue de Rivoli. On a previous trip we stayed across the Seine from Angelinas and spent a lot of time here. So this feels like a homecoming to us. We order the chocolat chaud and to be different a vanilla éclair. The chocolat is so thick and rich you really need to take your time and savor it-which is good for us because we need a rest.
Feeling good after that stop we continue down Rue de Rivoli and go to WH Smith bookstore and spend some time just browsing at all the great books.
Next we stop in at the Lalique store and look at all the beautiful things. I love the “face” jewelry. We learn that Renee Lalique's fiancé was the model for the “face”. I found the most perfect silver bracelet for me; it was beautiful and fit me perfectly-except it was 420 Euro, so no, it will not be gracing my wrist. Once again….maybe next time.
We then continued to Place Vendome. It was beautiful. All decked out in white light displays of graphic trees. We did not go around the square as it was getting cold so after we marveled at the lights we turned to head home.
Walking back up rue Castiglione we passed the Westin Hotel. I said quietly…let’s go in…so we looked at each other and we did.
Very good spontaneous move on our part. They had a winter wonderland in their inner courtyard. A sweet lonely mademoiselle invited us to sit at the café table and have some complimentary vin chaud and Christmas cookies. We stayed a while enjoying the setting and our good fortune to stumble on this beautiful, relaxing serendipitous moment that we had all to ourselves.
With an inner glow from the vin chaud we head home crossing Place de la Concorde which, with the ferris wheel, Christmas lights, Eiffel Tower and cars going around felt like we were in a light spectacular!
We are feeling pretty blessed right about now.
And tired.
