yodababe

I attended the opening of the Nuremberg Christkindlsmarkt yesterday evening. Normally I don't attend these kinds of events due to the massive numbers of people that are there, but one of my students was the Nuremberg Christkind (Christmas Angel) this year. Since that is a pretty big deal in Germany I decided to go.

All in all it was fairly what I had expected. The Nuremberg Christkindlsmarkt is world famous, which means that a couple of MILLION people visit it every year and that over 20,000 were present for the opening. Since I had to work before the ceremony I couldn't camp out in the square all day long to ensure that I had a good spot. I ended up on a side street with no view of the ceremony and pretty distorted hearing of Theresa giving the opening speech. I was finally able to shuffle along with thousands of other people towards the church where she was on display and got a glimpse of her arm as she left the balcony. LOL

After I viewed the (empty) balcony I drank a glass of kirschwein with rum (so my husband could get his 2013 Nuremberg Christkindlsmarkt souvenir mug, I kind of hate gluhwein) and headed home on the train. It was a bit drizzly and of course there were hordes of people everywhere (the penalty one pays for attending a world-famous Christmas market opening ceremony), but all in all it was nice to have been a part of it. Don't need to do it again, the Weihnachtsmarkt in our small town is just fine.

I am mostly writing this report because I wanted to share how I observed my fellow Americans behaving during this ceremony. Although I am American, I am also a resident of Germany. My perspective is therefore that of a resident, not a tourist. And frankly, I was a bit puzzled and sometimes embarrassed by how many of the American tourists conducted themselves on this night that is so special for Germans, particularly families with small children.

Please understand, I totally empathize with how stressful it is to take a transatlantic flight and deal with a different language and jet lag and a packed travel schedule--it is something that we do on a regular basis ourselves. What I don't get is how so many people can come to the opening ceremony of a world famous event and then be upset that there are so many other people there. It's as if a person attended the opening of the Olympics and then was unpleasantly surprised that the stadium was packed full of people.

But that's okay, if people want to spend their holiday being upset that is their right. The problem that I had was with the way in which most of my fellow Americans chose to express their disappointment with the event--loudly, in English, right in front of children and families and other tourists--<i>as if 90%+ of everybody in the crowd, including reporters, didn't also speak excellent English and understand every word they said.</i>

They complained about the crowd, about getting pushed out of 'their' spot (as if they could claim ownership of a couple of feet of cobblestone in a public market square), made denigrating comments about the Asians, the parents who put their kindergarteners on their shoulders so the child could see the Angel, and the ceremony itself. Hey American tourists who thought it was okay to make rude comments about the ceremony, doing that was the equivalent of a German making fun of the national anthem being sung before a baseball game and then saying how stupid baseball is during the game. Not cool.

They griped about not being able to get to every booth selling hot wine so they could be sure to get one of every souvenir Christkindlmarkt glass (there are only a couple, don't worry I think you got them folks). They moaned about having to walk back to the area where they could take the taxi, it was too far! and on cobblestones! and can't they get some better lighting? nevermind that the buildings themselves were illuminated for Christmas. They made rude comments about the food that was available. Hey guys, you are in Bavaria. Nurnberger sausages and lebkuchen are about all you can get at the markets. And Germans don't take any more kindly to you making disparaging remarks about their cherished holiday traditional foods than you would to THEM making disparaging remarks about corn dogs and funnel cakes at your local county fair.

What really made this stand out for me was that hardly anyone else was complaining--I heard a few Canadians say something to the effect of 'hoo boy there's a lot of people here!' And those who did so did it quietly. They actually left the crowded areas first, you could see from the gestures that they were like 'wow man that was WAY too crowded and people pushed WAY too much.' Pretty much everybody took the overcrowding in good humor and just shuffled along with elbows in their backs and their faces in the jacket of the person in front of them. My fellow Americans seemed to be the ones who consistently got angry about the crowds and then talked like jerks about them while still being IN them.

I get that people can form pictures about the wonderful festive experience that they will have on the expensive trip they are taking that is using up their precious vacation time. I get that the actual reality of the experience can be quite different from what one hoped it would be. But Germany (and Germans, and other tourists, including the Asian ones) is not responsible for your good time. And it is no more to blame for your lack of good time than the good people of New York City are for a German coming to Times Square for New Year's and then being surprised by how many people are there and disappointed that they couldn't really see the ball drop.

My feeling is that if a person wants to get a bird's eye view of stuff like this but don't want to be bothered by other, you know, PEOPLE--they can stay at home (or at their Hotel) and watch it being broadcast live. It was, all over Germany. Maybe that would have been a better option for some of these frustrated travelers.

My advice for people thinking about traveling to these kinds of events is: If you want to go to something that attracts as many people as the Nuremberg Christkindlsmarkt, why don't you read up on it? Look at some of the pictures from years past and think about if you really want to deal with that kind of madhouse crowd scene. Really think about what it would mean to stand for hours in the drizzle and snow and wind, waiting for the big moment. Do you really want to make that kind of commitment?

If so, great! If it doesn't live up to your expectations, though, you might want to consider keeping your complaints to yourself until such a time as you are alone instead of sharing them--loudly--with thousands of strangers who understand every word you say.

sparkchaser

Whether they are aware of it or not, and whether they like it or not, a tourist is an ambassador for their country.

Happy to see that Americans were doing their part to keep their stereotype alive.

Calabria62

Well, unfortunately, some loudmouths can leave a lasting impression, and a negative one at that. Here's one
American, who travels with the knowledge that I'm representing my country, and go out of my way to be polite, and respectful of other cultures. And not to start a war here, but I've heard many foreigners abroad (not Americans!)complain about everything from the eggs not being cooked enough, to comments about dissatisfaction with tour guides...(tour guides with PhD's!).

Having said that, I too have witnessed Americans abroad who have made me cringe.

And...yodababe, I couldn't agree more with your comment about researching a highly popular event. If you don't want to be part of an enormous crowd, don't go!

Grindeldoo

Yodababe, you're not the only one to cringe about the behaviour of your fellow countrymen - and I'm not talking about Americans here, but the British. Having said that, I have good friends who are French, German and Swedish - and all have similar reactions to their respective fellow countrymen. Regardless of what your mother tongue is, you can never assume that no-one living in the country you are visiting will understand you. And your body language will probably give you away, even if the spoken word doesn't. Politeness will take you a long way (and makes for a far more stress-free vacation experience), as will a real interest in the country you are visiting, and a little research into it before you arrive!

sassy27

Thanks for the report. I didn't know it would be something similar to TImes Square on NYE. I hate crowds so have never been and will never go to Times Square on NYE so this is good to know. My only comment though and I am not defending anyone's behavior but how did you know the Canadians were actually Canadians? I'm just curious.

crckwc1

We're two Americans going to Germany for the Christmas markets and will endeavor to NOT be the ugly Americans. It's a shame that rude behavior tends to apply to all Americans when in reality many of us do try to behave.

yodababe

When I wrote this report I hoped that I did not give the impression that every single American at the market was rude and obnoxious--because that isn't true. I heard (and didn't hear) many Americans acting more like the majority of the crowd. The problem is, it's the loud ones and the obnoxious ones and the rude ones that other people tend to notice and remember.

Most people know that Americans aren't all like the stereotype. And there are positive American stereotypes too--like how well we tend to tip, and my German colleagues pretty much all agree that 'Americans are easygoing' (that is a workplace stereotype, along with the one that we are flexible when plans suddenly change). So it's kind of sad when once again, the oblivious kind of blow it for the rest of us. But like other commenters have said, every nation has their stereotype and annoying people.

Basically, if we assume that everyone around us can understand everything we say then I think that all of us are more prone to watch our mouths than when we feel the safety of knowing that no one can understand us. I will never forget the hilarious moment when these 2 Polish guys were making lewd comments about every woman on the bus--in Polish--and my (Polish) colleague told them--in Polish--to get a life or go back to the barnyard they were obviously raised in. LOL

About knowing the Canadians were Canadians--well, I can hear the difference if they talk long enough. Don't know if it is because I lived in Minnesota for several years or what, their Canada maple leaf themed accesories were also a bit of a giveaway.

WeisserTee

I'm also an American living in Europe -- 15 years and counting. And I have some problems with the VERY broad brush the OP is using to paint MOST American tourists.

With a market that crowded and with so little room to move around, the OP in fact has no true idea how MOST of the American tourists were behaving. It could very well be that MOST of the Americans there behaved perfectly fine (and my experience living in four different European countries is that American tourists are, on average, every bit as polite as visitors from other countries even in crowded situations).

If SOME Americans chose to speak loudly about their disappointment, too bad, but they do not in any way provide proof that MOST of the Americans there were badly behaved. Not unless the OP was able to split herself into many, many clones and cover every corner of the market simultaneously.

Pegontheroad

I too cringe when I see my fellow Americans being boorish. I think that kind of behavior is especially evident at major events like this, where people may have unrealistic expectations of the venue and/or the event.

Once again I am happy that I visited this market waaaay back in the late 60's, when it was small enough to be all pleasure with no crowds and few foreigners.

yodababe

<i>I was a bit puzzled and sometimes embarrassed by how many of the American tourists conducted themselves on this night that is so special for Germans, particularly families with small children.</i>

I never said that most Americans in the crowd were loud and obnoxious.

<i>When I wrote this report I hoped that I did not give the impression that every single American at the market was rude and obnoxious--because that isn't true. I heard (and didn't hear) many Americans acting more like the majority of the crowd. The problem is, it's the loud ones and the obnoxious ones and the rude ones that other people tend to notice and remember.</i>

Hope that clears things up.

WeisserTee

"The problem that I had was with the way in which MOST of my fellow Americans chose to express their disappointment with the event"

It's too bad that this trip report was more of a long rant against Americans rather than a trip report. Now that you've vented your spleen, why not tell us about the market highlights? What were your favourite booths? Anything new this year?

I have no intentions of ever going to the Nberg market -- way too crowded for my taste -- but some people might be interesting in going, preferably on a weekday afternoon when it's not quite such a madhouse.

FWIW, the Basel market's opening days were lovely. As were the American tourists and expats there. We're going to pay our respects to the markets in Baden-Baden, Colmar, Lugano, Bern and Nancy or Freiburg over the next two weeks.

yodababe

<i>"The problem that I had was with the way in which MOST of my fellow Americans chose to express their disappointment with the event"</i>

Yes, I wrote that. And on rereading the original post, I felt that I needed to make the clarifying point in the first paragraph of my second post: I don't think that most Americans there were acting in an inappropriate manner last night.

At this time I don't think there is any point in hashing this over further. You expressed your opinion, I responded and clarified my post and I don't think I can be any more clear than I have already been. Let's not argue semantics, there are so many better ways to spend our time.

sassy27

Thanks for answering my Canadian question. It really is unfortunate when a few people do live up to a stereotype. I think you just happened to be in a bad spot at the wrong time and knew the language. I'm sure other people were complaining just as loud in their own languages and you just didn't know it.

I do know the Christmas Angel is a big deal so it's exciting you know the Angel this year. I one day hope to visit Nuremberg during the market and will note to stay away on the opening day/night. So really, thanks for posting.

Grindeldoo

Yodababe - a question. Does Nuremberg just have the one main Christmas market, or are there several smaller ones in town as well? I lived in Munich for a long time in the '80s and '90s, and used to go to the smaller markets in the city, in Schwabing, Rotkreuzplatz, Haidhausen etc., which in the evenings are less crowded and to my mind more magical, with a higher percentage of families with children instead of groups of adults that you get at Marienplatz.

Sassy27 -whether you're bilingual, multilingual, or just understand enough of a foreign language or languages to know when people are complaining, I find it does somehow feel worse when your fellow citizens are the ones griping and displaying bad manners, because you feel that you are also going to be judged on their behaviour. If it's another nationality, it somehow affects you less.

sparkchaser

Nuremberg just has the one big one.

I love the Mitterlalter Weihnachtsmarkt in München. So much fun.

denisea

I know what you mean yodababe and I sometimes am disappointed in other Americans behavior abroad. We try to adapt to local customs (although the worst we have seen was the way a German couple behaved at a site in Italy), try not to be too loud and try to act in a way that will leave a positive impression.

We will go to Strasbourg for the market there. Not Germany (at least anymore), but we do want to be mindful that it is first and foremost the big "thing" for families in the area.

I know not all or even most American tourists behave poorly, but we have seen some cringeworthy moments in the past in Europe. Our goal is not to be the ones embarrassing ourselves or our country.

sassy27

I wasn't disagreeing with the OP. I was just making the point that other people were most liking complaining as well and just wasn't noticeable due to other language barriers or soft speakers. Doesn't make it better but possible. I don't know, I wasn't there and only speaking from something I experienced this summer. It still was unfortunate that the loud US English complaints is one thing she took away from the experience.

Walker42

It sounds like you took everything in stride about the miserable conditions (rain, packed crowds, no view, terrible wine, annoying tourists) except for the annoying American tourists you noticed.

I would imagine that these tourists affected you least of all of the above bothersome conditions and yet you chose to focus on this one aspect of the event to make your own complaints. You can complain about the rain to better effect.

Basically you are saying you think some American tourists are loud and obnoxious. For having such realistic expectations about the rest of the event, I am trying to figure out why this took you by surprise.

As for you yourself being painted by Germans with the same brush as they paint those loud Americans, please give them a little more credit than that!

yodababe

Grineldoo, there is the one big market and a smaller one for children which is really sweet. On the street from the Hauptbahnhof to the market square there are a lot of vendors and it is not nearly as crowded as the main market.

However, I think Munich does a lot better job of managing their markets. There are so many that even though they are crowded, there simply isn't the problem of trying to move thousands of people along basically 2 main pedestrian thoroughfares. People can get in and out of the markets fairly easily. Mostly.

Walker42, my point was not to complain about miserable conditions. I have been to Nuremberg many times for the Christkindlsmarkt although this was my first time for the opening ceremony. It was pretty cool to be part of something like that even though it wasn't ideal.

However it was apparent to me that several groups of tourists were not expecting all the crowds and such, and it was not a pleasant experience for them. I think they would have benefitted from a little more prior research in this area, maybe they would have skipped it in favor of a smaller market or come on a different night. Or perhaps they would have come prepared for less-than-ideal conditions--we all know that situations like I described are easier to cope with if that is what we are expecting to happen, rather than being unpleasantly surprised by them.

I shared the experience I had because, frankly, it was a somewhat weird facet of an otherwise okay evening. And I do think it is a cautionary tale for the rest of us.

WeisserTee

The market is mentioned prominently in articles every year about top Christmas markets. Unfortunately, most of the writers use euphemisms like "popular" and "best-known" rather than plainly acknowledging that it's a bloody mob scene on opening days and during week-ends. So I'm not all that surprised that there is such a disconnect between what first-time visitors expected and what they encountered.

That said, I find the concerns expressed in the OP a little ironic. I have attended no small number of multi-cultural diversity workshops and presentations with significant German and German-speaking Swiss attendance. Their number one complaint, by far, is that Americans are TOO polite, that they are too hesitant to criticize things bluntly and are always trying to put a positive spin on the issue. One German speaker at the most recent event asked why American can't just come out and say they don't like something in no uncertain terms instead of trying to sugar-coat everything.

So perhaps this was an object lesson for the Germans offended by the complaining Americans: be careful what you wish for -- you may not like it when you get it!