Notes on Florence, Lucca, Bevagna, Orvieto & Rome - Sept 10 to Oct 4, 2013
Oct 31st, 2013, 12:59 PM
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Notes on Florence, Lucca, Bevagna, Orvieto & Rome - Sept 10 to Oct 4, 2013
There is a sense of anticipation, excitement and discovery when we travel to new destinations. It is also wonderful to return to places where we have been before. The surroundings are familiar. It feels comfortable. There is time to explore less-visited but no less awe-inspiring sights, at last.
For us, this trip was the perfect balance of new & familiar. Best of all, DH & I were in Italy!
Here's our itinerary:
September 10-15: Florence
September 15-19: Lucca
September 19-23: Bevagna
September 23-27: Orvieto
September 27 - October 4: Rome
<b>Next</b>: Our travel day: Vancouver to Florence ...
For us, this trip was the perfect balance of new & familiar. Best of all, DH & I were in Italy!
Here's our itinerary:
September 10-15: Florence
September 15-19: Lucca
September 19-23: Bevagna
September 23-27: Orvieto
September 27 - October 4: Rome
<b>Next</b>: Our travel day: Vancouver to Florence ...
Oct 31st, 2013, 01:52 PM
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Mon Sept 9 / Tues Sept 10
It used to be that the travel portion to a destination whether it be by plane, train, boat or car was an enjoyable part of our trip. Our holiday began when we left through the front door with luggage in hand. Now, it begins at the precise moment we arrive at our destination! Could it be our advancing years?
After a very long, sleepless travel day, we landed in Florence. It was mid-afternoon. We gathered our bags and hired a taxi to take us to the <b>Tourist House Ghiberti</b>. (www.touristhouseghigerti.com) We were reminded that the painted lines and posted speed limits are merely suggestions. Nevertheless, we were delivered to the Tourist House Ghiberti safely and without mishap!
We were greeted warmly by Claudio, the owner of the lovely B&B. He took us to our large, quiet guest room. Claudio's thorough explanation of how to operate the air conditioner, TV and PC was appreciated but not completed absorbed by travel-weary us. We hoped that all this information was written down somewhere for our future reference!
We unpacked and settled in for a nap.
We woke up to rain outside! With a borrowed umbrella, we walked around the corner to <b>Osteria Zio Gigi</b> for dinner. Soon, the restaurant filled up with locals & a few tourists who were seeking a dry, warm place and a satisfying meal! Ours was a simple dinner consisting of an antipasto plate and pasta dishes. We had a 1/2 liter of the house wine.
Although the rain continued, we decided to walk to the Duomo. The streets and the piazza were virtually empty of people. We followed suit and cut our walk short. Good plan!
This would be our third trip to Florence and stay at the Tourist House Ghiberti. We were so excited to be back!
It used to be that the travel portion to a destination whether it be by plane, train, boat or car was an enjoyable part of our trip. Our holiday began when we left through the front door with luggage in hand. Now, it begins at the precise moment we arrive at our destination! Could it be our advancing years?
After a very long, sleepless travel day, we landed in Florence. It was mid-afternoon. We gathered our bags and hired a taxi to take us to the <b>Tourist House Ghiberti</b>. (www.touristhouseghigerti.com) We were reminded that the painted lines and posted speed limits are merely suggestions. Nevertheless, we were delivered to the Tourist House Ghiberti safely and without mishap!
We were greeted warmly by Claudio, the owner of the lovely B&B. He took us to our large, quiet guest room. Claudio's thorough explanation of how to operate the air conditioner, TV and PC was appreciated but not completed absorbed by travel-weary us. We hoped that all this information was written down somewhere for our future reference!
We unpacked and settled in for a nap.
We woke up to rain outside! With a borrowed umbrella, we walked around the corner to <b>Osteria Zio Gigi</b> for dinner. Soon, the restaurant filled up with locals & a few tourists who were seeking a dry, warm place and a satisfying meal! Ours was a simple dinner consisting of an antipasto plate and pasta dishes. We had a 1/2 liter of the house wine.
Although the rain continued, we decided to walk to the Duomo. The streets and the piazza were virtually empty of people. We followed suit and cut our walk short. Good plan!
This would be our third trip to Florence and stay at the Tourist House Ghiberti. We were so excited to be back!
Oct 31st, 2013, 02:59 PM
#6
nice start - i too have noticed that the getting there holds less interest than it used to. is it us, or is it that the stresses of travel have increased?
and i know what you mean about not taking in the details of how things work - I don't even bother to tell our guests when they arrive; I go over the next day and explain things then when they have settled in a bit.
and i know what you mean about not taking in the details of how things work - I don't even bother to tell our guests when they arrive; I go over the next day and explain things then when they have settled in a bit.
Oct 31st, 2013, 03:42 PM
#7
"Claudio's thorough explanation of how to operate the air conditioner, TV and PC was appreciated but not completed absorbed by travel-weary us."
LOL, Claudio's narrative had our head spinning, too!
LOL, Claudio's narrative had our head spinning, too!
Oct 31st, 2013, 10:57 PM
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Wed Sept 11
We woke up to a lovely morning! It was such a treat to have our coffee & breakfast on the terrace under blue sky. It was to be a leisurely start to the day.
We crossed the Ponte Vecchio to the Oltarno and from there, it was a short walk to the <b>Pitti Palace</b>. Our combination ticket included the Galleria Palatina, the State Apartments, the Galleria d'Arte Moderna and a special exhibit, Il sogno nel Rinascimento (The dream in the Renaissance). As we soon discovered, this place was vast!
The Galleria Palatina contained a large collection of 16th-18th century paintings which hung on walls in enormous gilt frames. Highlights: Raphael, Titian, Rubens, Van Dyke.
The rooms in the State Apartments were palatial and of grand proportions. They were opulently decorated with wall coverings, curtains and frescoed ceilings. They were furnished in the same grand style. I was particularly intrigued by the exquisite tables with inlaid tops and intricately carved bottoms.
We were only left with a short time to visit the Galleria d'Arte Moderna which featured works by late-18th to 20th century Tuscan painters. Very appealing! This gallery warranted more time than we could give. We were now tired, hot and hungry!
We had lunch at the café inside the palace courtyard. Despite it being over-priced and mediocre, it did provide us seats at a table in the cool shade. At least, the water and beer were cold!
Refueled & refreshed, we took a route along Via de Guicciardini, Borgo San Jacopo and Via de Calzaiuoli. I was on a scouting mission for a purse, some gloves and a pair of boots. DH waited patiently as I checked out the leather goods displayed so artfully in store windows.
A group of friends were traveling in Italy and it so happened that we were in Florence at the same time. We knew five women very well and we were to meet the other two. Before we left home, we arranged to have dinner at <b>Trattoria Sostanza</b>. On this night, the restaurant was packed and lively! Our meals were very good. DH & I shared an appetizer of prosciutto & melon. He had the butter chicken and I had the artichoke tart - both were recommended dishes. Vegetables and carafes of their fine house wine were ordered for the table. It was fun to share travel stories & catch up with dear friends. We were offered dessert but we were surprised that they did not serve coffee. So, we decided to forego dessert. We would continue our meal elsewhere!
We walked to the <b>Gelateria Santa Trinita</b> on the Oltarno. We took our cups of gelato to the Ponte S. Trinita where we enjoyed the view of the Ponte Vecchio and the lovely, mild evening.
Later, six of us continued our walk while three went back to their hotel. We found our way to Piazza della Signorina where we stopped at a café for cups of espresso & tea. Eventually, we said our good-byes with kisses & hugs. It was very special to share an evening in Florence with friends from home!
We woke up to a lovely morning! It was such a treat to have our coffee & breakfast on the terrace under blue sky. It was to be a leisurely start to the day.
We crossed the Ponte Vecchio to the Oltarno and from there, it was a short walk to the <b>Pitti Palace</b>. Our combination ticket included the Galleria Palatina, the State Apartments, the Galleria d'Arte Moderna and a special exhibit, Il sogno nel Rinascimento (The dream in the Renaissance). As we soon discovered, this place was vast!
The Galleria Palatina contained a large collection of 16th-18th century paintings which hung on walls in enormous gilt frames. Highlights: Raphael, Titian, Rubens, Van Dyke.
The rooms in the State Apartments were palatial and of grand proportions. They were opulently decorated with wall coverings, curtains and frescoed ceilings. They were furnished in the same grand style. I was particularly intrigued by the exquisite tables with inlaid tops and intricately carved bottoms.
We were only left with a short time to visit the Galleria d'Arte Moderna which featured works by late-18th to 20th century Tuscan painters. Very appealing! This gallery warranted more time than we could give. We were now tired, hot and hungry!
We had lunch at the café inside the palace courtyard. Despite it being over-priced and mediocre, it did provide us seats at a table in the cool shade. At least, the water and beer were cold!
Refueled & refreshed, we took a route along Via de Guicciardini, Borgo San Jacopo and Via de Calzaiuoli. I was on a scouting mission for a purse, some gloves and a pair of boots. DH waited patiently as I checked out the leather goods displayed so artfully in store windows.
A group of friends were traveling in Italy and it so happened that we were in Florence at the same time. We knew five women very well and we were to meet the other two. Before we left home, we arranged to have dinner at <b>Trattoria Sostanza</b>. On this night, the restaurant was packed and lively! Our meals were very good. DH & I shared an appetizer of prosciutto & melon. He had the butter chicken and I had the artichoke tart - both were recommended dishes. Vegetables and carafes of their fine house wine were ordered for the table. It was fun to share travel stories & catch up with dear friends. We were offered dessert but we were surprised that they did not serve coffee. So, we decided to forego dessert. We would continue our meal elsewhere!
We walked to the <b>Gelateria Santa Trinita</b> on the Oltarno. We took our cups of gelato to the Ponte S. Trinita where we enjoyed the view of the Ponte Vecchio and the lovely, mild evening.
Later, six of us continued our walk while three went back to their hotel. We found our way to Piazza della Signorina where we stopped at a café for cups of espresso & tea. Eventually, we said our good-byes with kisses & hugs. It was very special to share an evening in Florence with friends from home!
Nov 1st, 2013, 04:36 PM
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Thurs Sept 12
In the church of <b>Santa Croce</b>, restoration of the main chapel frescoed by Agnolo Gaddi began in 2005. While the major part of the restoration has been completed, the scaffolding remains while the work continues to be monitored. DH & I were so excited to take part in a guided tour of the restoration site.
We climbed the scaffolding (7 levels, 90 steps) led by our informative guide, Antonio. He balanced our time with stories of the Legend of the True Cross depicted in the frescoes and information about the complex restoration process. It was such a unique experience to be able to view the frescoes and the domed ceiling so close up. Where else would we ever have such an opportunity?
We decided to have a break before continuing our visit in Santa Croce. We walked to the nearby <b>Mercato San Ambrogio</b>. Here, we located the <b>Trattoria Da Rocco</b> with its glass case filled with salads & other prepared foods. Some folks were lined up to take away containers of food while others sat at tables for a quick lunch. It only took a few minutes for two seats to become available for us. We shared a table with another couple. The place was hopping and it was fun to watch the staff scurry about taking orders, preparing plates and serving food! The food was very simple. DH had pasta and I had panzanella, a bread salad. We each had fresh fruit for dessert. After lunch, we took a quick walk through this work-a-day market.
Back at Santa Croce, we visited the remainder of the church, stopping to look at the tombs of Galileo, Michelangelo, Dante, Machiavelli, Rossini and others. We continued on to the lovely cloisters and finished with the Opera's Museum. It was quite an amazing day!
Tonight we had dinner at <b>Osteria Del Cinghiale Bianco</b>, a sentimental favourite. We've eaten here on two previous trips to Florence. There seemed to be more tourists dining on this night than we've ever encountered before. Guess Cinghiale Bianco been discovered! We had a beautiful meal, typically Tuscan. Of course, I had pappardelle with cinghiale!
Tonight was Vogue Fashion's Night Out, a huge celebration in town. High-end stores along Via Tornabuoni were open and hosted by-invitation-only parties. Masses of participants and curious folks like us were in the streets. There was music & entertainment every where. It was a great night to people-watch and the whole atmosphere was festive & fun!
In the church of <b>Santa Croce</b>, restoration of the main chapel frescoed by Agnolo Gaddi began in 2005. While the major part of the restoration has been completed, the scaffolding remains while the work continues to be monitored. DH & I were so excited to take part in a guided tour of the restoration site.
We climbed the scaffolding (7 levels, 90 steps) led by our informative guide, Antonio. He balanced our time with stories of the Legend of the True Cross depicted in the frescoes and information about the complex restoration process. It was such a unique experience to be able to view the frescoes and the domed ceiling so close up. Where else would we ever have such an opportunity?
We decided to have a break before continuing our visit in Santa Croce. We walked to the nearby <b>Mercato San Ambrogio</b>. Here, we located the <b>Trattoria Da Rocco</b> with its glass case filled with salads & other prepared foods. Some folks were lined up to take away containers of food while others sat at tables for a quick lunch. It only took a few minutes for two seats to become available for us. We shared a table with another couple. The place was hopping and it was fun to watch the staff scurry about taking orders, preparing plates and serving food! The food was very simple. DH had pasta and I had panzanella, a bread salad. We each had fresh fruit for dessert. After lunch, we took a quick walk through this work-a-day market.
Back at Santa Croce, we visited the remainder of the church, stopping to look at the tombs of Galileo, Michelangelo, Dante, Machiavelli, Rossini and others. We continued on to the lovely cloisters and finished with the Opera's Museum. It was quite an amazing day!
Tonight we had dinner at <b>Osteria Del Cinghiale Bianco</b>, a sentimental favourite. We've eaten here on two previous trips to Florence. There seemed to be more tourists dining on this night than we've ever encountered before. Guess Cinghiale Bianco been discovered! We had a beautiful meal, typically Tuscan. Of course, I had pappardelle with cinghiale!
Tonight was Vogue Fashion's Night Out, a huge celebration in town. High-end stores along Via Tornabuoni were open and hosted by-invitation-only parties. Masses of participants and curious folks like us were in the streets. There was music & entertainment every where. It was a great night to people-watch and the whole atmosphere was festive & fun!
Nov 1st, 2013, 09:45 PM
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Fri Sept 13
Highlights of our day:
<b>MEDICI CHAPELS</b> - Two years ago when we were last in Florence, the main Chapel of Princes was in the midst of extensive restoration. The walls were covered with netting and scaffolding. Paintings & sculptures had been removed. We hoped a return visit would afford us a better look at the chapel. It did! Today, we were able to see most of the octagonal room: the tombs of Medici leaders, the coats of arms of Tuscan towns inlaid in the walls, the large Medici family crest high above.
We took the passageway into the New Sacristy which was designed by Michelangelo. The highlights here were the Michelangelo sculptures: Dawn and Dusk, Day and Night. It was no less impressive the second time around.
There was also a special exhibit on Clemente VII and Leone X, "Splendore Mediceo".
<b>MUSEO SALVATORE FERRAGAMO</b> - This showcased the history of Ferragamo's career from his return to Italy in 1927 to 1960. Beautiful shoes & wonderful stories! Classic, timeless styles from every day to dressy and some, fanciful! Shoes with rhinoceros horn-shaped toes anyone? It was fascinating to see Ferragamo's design sketch book and some of his tools.
There was a special exhibit called "Fairy Tales about Shoes and Shoe Makers" that celebrated story, craft and art. As a retired primary school teacher, I loved this exhibit!
<b>SHOPPING</b>:
- Madova Gloves - black leather gloves
- Mannina - brown leather boots
- Cavini - Gabs Bag in ox red
- DH's favourite tobacconist (Via dei Servi) - a tabletop cigar cutter
<b>SURPRISES</b> - We bumped into our lady friends on Santo Spirito! We had just finished lunch and they were just being seated!
<b>DINNER</b> - The interior of <b>Ristorante Accademia</b> and its menu have had a face-lift since we last ate here. Our dinners were very good. We started with a plate of prosciutto & melon. DH had veal scaloppini and I had a most delicious seafood risotto!
It was a lovely evening - perfect for a gelato and a walk after dinner!
Highlights of our day:
<b>MEDICI CHAPELS</b> - Two years ago when we were last in Florence, the main Chapel of Princes was in the midst of extensive restoration. The walls were covered with netting and scaffolding. Paintings & sculptures had been removed. We hoped a return visit would afford us a better look at the chapel. It did! Today, we were able to see most of the octagonal room: the tombs of Medici leaders, the coats of arms of Tuscan towns inlaid in the walls, the large Medici family crest high above.
We took the passageway into the New Sacristy which was designed by Michelangelo. The highlights here were the Michelangelo sculptures: Dawn and Dusk, Day and Night. It was no less impressive the second time around.
There was also a special exhibit on Clemente VII and Leone X, "Splendore Mediceo".
<b>MUSEO SALVATORE FERRAGAMO</b> - This showcased the history of Ferragamo's career from his return to Italy in 1927 to 1960. Beautiful shoes & wonderful stories! Classic, timeless styles from every day to dressy and some, fanciful! Shoes with rhinoceros horn-shaped toes anyone? It was fascinating to see Ferragamo's design sketch book and some of his tools.
There was a special exhibit called "Fairy Tales about Shoes and Shoe Makers" that celebrated story, craft and art. As a retired primary school teacher, I loved this exhibit!
<b>SHOPPING</b>:
- Madova Gloves - black leather gloves
- Mannina - brown leather boots
- Cavini - Gabs Bag in ox red
- DH's favourite tobacconist (Via dei Servi) - a tabletop cigar cutter
<b>SURPRISES</b> - We bumped into our lady friends on Santo Spirito! We had just finished lunch and they were just being seated!
<b>DINNER</b> - The interior of <b>Ristorante Accademia</b> and its menu have had a face-lift since we last ate here. Our dinners were very good. We started with a plate of prosciutto & melon. DH had veal scaloppini and I had a most delicious seafood risotto!
It was a lovely evening - perfect for a gelato and a walk after dinner!
Nov 2nd, 2013, 06:24 AM
#12
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Thanks to all for your replies & comments!
Since it was our third trip to Florence, our itinerary was less packed than on previous stays. We had intended to re-visit some sights if time permitted. The Duomo was one of those places but each time we passed by, there was either a long wait or it was closed!
More to come ...
Since it was our third trip to Florence, our itinerary was less packed than on previous stays. We had intended to re-visit some sights if time permitted. The Duomo was one of those places but each time we passed by, there was either a long wait or it was closed!
More to come ...
Nov 2nd, 2013, 09:28 AM
#13
We did the Santa Croce tour up the scaffolding two years ago. (2010, was Antonio from Siena? If so, he was our guide too!) I had no idea the scaffolding was still in place. Anyone planning a trip to Florence in the near future should check to see whether this tour is available. We thought it was one of the more interesting things we've seen/done in Florence over many trips.
Nov 2nd, 2013, 10:47 AM
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Sat Sept 14
Notes from my journal ...
<i> Pressed for time. Trying to finish Florence travel 'blog' (in the form of an attachment to an email) to send off to friends later. Challenges uploading photos from my camera to laptop - source of frustration. Need to do some preliminary packing for tomorrow's departure before getting ready for dinner at Sostanza. Phew!
Here's an abridged version of today's activities ...
<b>Palazzo Medici Riccardi</b> - Entered the lovely courtyard and garden. Sprinkled throughout, art installations by Paddy Campbell, Di Cuore - From the Heart. The movement, expression & beauty of the bronze figures were stunning - in particular, Wind and Water which stood in the courtyard.
Upstairs in the Chapella dei Magi, we went to see The Journey of the Magi by Benozzo Gozzol. Colourful story-telling painted on three walls. Very charming. Hanging in the small altar, Madonna & Child by Fra Filippo Lippi.
Have a rule ... use the WC before leaving a museum, gallery, palazzo, sight. But the one in the Palazzo Medici Riccardi gave me pause. In the ladies' room, there was a large, elevated, porcelain, Turkish-style squat toilet. It was pristine but I found it odd to have to climb up onto the platform. As I placed my coins down for the attendant, a woman came out of a wheelchair accessible stall. I saw too late that it had a western toilet.
As much as we enjoy traditional Tuscan cooking, menus began to look the same from restaurant to restaurant. So, we were quite delighted to find something a bit different on the Oltrarno for lunch, <b>Trattoria Pandemonio</b>. Sat in the large enclosed patio in the back. Pretty room. Family affair. Traditional food with a twist. Prosciutto & melon and our pasta dishes (tortellini, ravioli) were fantastic. Took photos but regret not noting details of the dishes. We wished we had come here earlier in our stay. It would have been fun to try it for dinner.
<b>Cappella Brancacci at Santa Maria del Carmine</b> - Three artists worked on the fresoces: Masolino, his student Masaccio and Fipippino Lippi who finished it some 50 years later. Church was not open to visit but we could get a sense of its grandeur from the chapel.
Dinner at <b>Sostanza</b>. Shared a table with two young couples, one from Australian and the other from the US. Pleasant conversation over dinner. It was a test to see how we could fit all the various glasses and dishes on our small table! For our main course, DH had the butter chicken and I had the veal chop - very tasty!
Our evening walk took us back to <b>Gelateria Santa Trinita</b> for gelato. Perfect ending to a perfect day!</i>
We are travelers who are charmed by Florence! And staying five nights made for a relaxed, unhurried stay. There were things on our 'list' that we didn't get to do. Oh, well ... we will just have to come back some day!
Next: Lucca ...
Notes from my journal ...
<i> Pressed for time. Trying to finish Florence travel 'blog' (in the form of an attachment to an email) to send off to friends later. Challenges uploading photos from my camera to laptop - source of frustration. Need to do some preliminary packing for tomorrow's departure before getting ready for dinner at Sostanza. Phew!
Here's an abridged version of today's activities ...
<b>Palazzo Medici Riccardi</b> - Entered the lovely courtyard and garden. Sprinkled throughout, art installations by Paddy Campbell, Di Cuore - From the Heart. The movement, expression & beauty of the bronze figures were stunning - in particular, Wind and Water which stood in the courtyard.
Upstairs in the Chapella dei Magi, we went to see The Journey of the Magi by Benozzo Gozzol. Colourful story-telling painted on three walls. Very charming. Hanging in the small altar, Madonna & Child by Fra Filippo Lippi.
Have a rule ... use the WC before leaving a museum, gallery, palazzo, sight. But the one in the Palazzo Medici Riccardi gave me pause. In the ladies' room, there was a large, elevated, porcelain, Turkish-style squat toilet. It was pristine but I found it odd to have to climb up onto the platform. As I placed my coins down for the attendant, a woman came out of a wheelchair accessible stall. I saw too late that it had a western toilet.
As much as we enjoy traditional Tuscan cooking, menus began to look the same from restaurant to restaurant. So, we were quite delighted to find something a bit different on the Oltrarno for lunch, <b>Trattoria Pandemonio</b>. Sat in the large enclosed patio in the back. Pretty room. Family affair. Traditional food with a twist. Prosciutto & melon and our pasta dishes (tortellini, ravioli) were fantastic. Took photos but regret not noting details of the dishes. We wished we had come here earlier in our stay. It would have been fun to try it for dinner.
<b>Cappella Brancacci at Santa Maria del Carmine</b> - Three artists worked on the fresoces: Masolino, his student Masaccio and Fipippino Lippi who finished it some 50 years later. Church was not open to visit but we could get a sense of its grandeur from the chapel.
Dinner at <b>Sostanza</b>. Shared a table with two young couples, one from Australian and the other from the US. Pleasant conversation over dinner. It was a test to see how we could fit all the various glasses and dishes on our small table! For our main course, DH had the butter chicken and I had the veal chop - very tasty!
Our evening walk took us back to <b>Gelateria Santa Trinita</b> for gelato. Perfect ending to a perfect day!</i>
We are travelers who are charmed by Florence! And staying five nights made for a relaxed, unhurried stay. There were things on our 'list' that we didn't get to do. Oh, well ... we will just have to come back some day!
Next: Lucca ...
Nov 2nd, 2013, 01:51 PM
#15
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Hi Jean,
It was from your recommendation that I looked into the tour of the restoration! So, thanks for that!
I agree that it is something to consider for those who are planning a trip to Florence. It was very interesting!
There is information on Santa Croce's website. Just follow the links to 'Themed Tours'. Booking is required. I sent an email requesting our preferred date & time.
www.santacroceopera.it
I don't know if 'our' Antonio was from Siena. He certainly was knowledgeable and I wondered if he had an art history background.
It was from your recommendation that I looked into the tour of the restoration! So, thanks for that!
I agree that it is something to consider for those who are planning a trip to Florence. It was very interesting!
There is information on Santa Croce's website. Just follow the links to 'Themed Tours'. Booking is required. I sent an email requesting our preferred date & time.
www.santacroceopera.it
I don't know if 'our' Antonio was from Siena. He certainly was knowledgeable and I wondered if he had an art history background.
Nov 2nd, 2013, 03:21 PM
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Sun Sept 15
Under cloudy skies, we picked up our rental car at the Avis office near Florence airport. We were given a Ford Focus - perfect size to navigate the narrow roads we would sometimes encounter on our travels.
It was an easy one-hour drive along A-1 to Lucca which is located northwest of Florence. We had the usual challenge of finding a decent radio station to play. Eventually, we decided to turn off the radio and listen to the GPS route updates instead. Much better!
We circumnavigated Lucca and entered the walled city via Porta Santa Maria. We were aware that Lucca has a ZTL, an area in the city centre that restricts traffic to registered vehicles only. We were assured that it was permissible for us to drive to the hotel, drop off our luggage and park our car in its private garage. The hotel would register our license plate number with the authorities as soon as we arrived ... no problem! Ha! If only we were able to get to the hotel directly.
Just past the Santa Maria Gate, we veered right when we should have gone straight and ended up in a small parking lot with no exit. Once DH figured out how to put the car in reverse, he managed to back the car out of the lot but not without first blocking traffic. There were just a few annoyed drivers waiting for us to complete this maneuver.
Then, feeling a bit agitated, we drove past Via Fillungo, the street on which we should have turned! DH stopped the car adjacent to a building and I got out. I enlisted the help of a kind lady who was Italian but also a tourist! She in turn asked a local for directions and together we walked back towards the corner. I was able to confirm that it was indeed Via Fillungo.
When I returned to the car, DH was being scolded by a local for stopping where he did. We didn't need to understand Italian to know that the man was mad. Oh, dear! Eventually, we got ourselves turned around. But when we reached the intersection, we did not know whether to turn right or left - sigh! So, I jumped out of the car again and on foot, located our hotel, <b>A Palazzo Busdraghi</b>. (www.apalazzobusdraghi.it) I waved for DH to come along the crowded pedestrian-lined street.
DH parked the car in front of the hotel and we schlepped our bags from the ground floor up to the first-floor lobby. Although our room was not ready, we checked-in and we were given a map showing us how to get to the private parking garage. At least the route was familiar. We had driven this street before ... twice ... in both directions! We were beginning to think that train travel has its appeal!
As we walked back towards the hotel, the sky opened up! Rain reached Lucca at last! In desperation, we bought an umbrella from a street vendor. There was no time to barter. We were getting wet! Our 10€ green plaid umbrella kept us dry until we reached Piazza San Frediano where we stopped for lunch.
No rain fell as we walked along Via dell'Anfiteatro and onto the piazza. Here, we saw some interesting shops & more restaurants. Next, we continued along Via Fullingo. This was definitely a shopping street!
Back at the hotel, we were taken to our lovely room. It was perfectly quiet even though it faced the street. It felt spacious with its high ceilings. There was a good-sized closet and a beautiful wooden dresser with a marble top. We unpacked & settled in as the rain fell heavily accompanied by thunder.
We had an early dinner at <b>K2 Pizzeria</b> not far from us. We had an artfully arranged caprese salad where the tomatoes, cheese & basil lined up like the Italian flag. The pizzas were pretty good and the house red wine was a bit 'rough'.
After dinner, there was a brief shower during our brief walk. Fortunately, we had our umbrella!
Lucca is quiet at night.
Under cloudy skies, we picked up our rental car at the Avis office near Florence airport. We were given a Ford Focus - perfect size to navigate the narrow roads we would sometimes encounter on our travels.
It was an easy one-hour drive along A-1 to Lucca which is located northwest of Florence. We had the usual challenge of finding a decent radio station to play. Eventually, we decided to turn off the radio and listen to the GPS route updates instead. Much better!
We circumnavigated Lucca and entered the walled city via Porta Santa Maria. We were aware that Lucca has a ZTL, an area in the city centre that restricts traffic to registered vehicles only. We were assured that it was permissible for us to drive to the hotel, drop off our luggage and park our car in its private garage. The hotel would register our license plate number with the authorities as soon as we arrived ... no problem! Ha! If only we were able to get to the hotel directly.
Just past the Santa Maria Gate, we veered right when we should have gone straight and ended up in a small parking lot with no exit. Once DH figured out how to put the car in reverse, he managed to back the car out of the lot but not without first blocking traffic. There were just a few annoyed drivers waiting for us to complete this maneuver.
Then, feeling a bit agitated, we drove past Via Fillungo, the street on which we should have turned! DH stopped the car adjacent to a building and I got out. I enlisted the help of a kind lady who was Italian but also a tourist! She in turn asked a local for directions and together we walked back towards the corner. I was able to confirm that it was indeed Via Fillungo.
When I returned to the car, DH was being scolded by a local for stopping where he did. We didn't need to understand Italian to know that the man was mad. Oh, dear! Eventually, we got ourselves turned around. But when we reached the intersection, we did not know whether to turn right or left - sigh! So, I jumped out of the car again and on foot, located our hotel, <b>A Palazzo Busdraghi</b>. (www.apalazzobusdraghi.it) I waved for DH to come along the crowded pedestrian-lined street.
DH parked the car in front of the hotel and we schlepped our bags from the ground floor up to the first-floor lobby. Although our room was not ready, we checked-in and we were given a map showing us how to get to the private parking garage. At least the route was familiar. We had driven this street before ... twice ... in both directions! We were beginning to think that train travel has its appeal!
As we walked back towards the hotel, the sky opened up! Rain reached Lucca at last! In desperation, we bought an umbrella from a street vendor. There was no time to barter. We were getting wet! Our 10€ green plaid umbrella kept us dry until we reached Piazza San Frediano where we stopped for lunch.
No rain fell as we walked along Via dell'Anfiteatro and onto the piazza. Here, we saw some interesting shops & more restaurants. Next, we continued along Via Fullingo. This was definitely a shopping street!
Back at the hotel, we were taken to our lovely room. It was perfectly quiet even though it faced the street. It felt spacious with its high ceilings. There was a good-sized closet and a beautiful wooden dresser with a marble top. We unpacked & settled in as the rain fell heavily accompanied by thunder.
We had an early dinner at <b>K2 Pizzeria</b> not far from us. We had an artfully arranged caprese salad where the tomatoes, cheese & basil lined up like the Italian flag. The pizzas were pretty good and the house red wine was a bit 'rough'.
After dinner, there was a brief shower during our brief walk. Fortunately, we had our umbrella!
Lucca is quiet at night.
Nov 2nd, 2013, 07:23 PM
#17
Great report. Looking forward to more. We loved Lucca when we were there in 2008 and are planning to return to Tuscany and Lucca next yr. I am anxious to read about Bevagna since we have not been there and may want to add a new stop to our itinerary next yr.
Nov 3rd, 2013, 05:57 AM
#18
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Your advice was very helpful for our Northern Italy trip in 2012 and it looks like we will be following in some of your footsteps (Florence and Rome) for our next trip to Italy in 2014. It's a delight to read your reports - thanks for posting. I've already picked up a few tips for Florence - looking forward to your Rome adventures.
Nov 3rd, 2013, 09:01 AM
#20
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<b>TravelerKaren</b>: As you will soon find out, we enjoyed Lucca, too!
I just started Elizabeth George's newest novel and was surprised when I came to the chapter set in Lucca. It was fun to read & recognize places (streets, gates, market place, park on the ramparts ...) referred to in the book!
<b>john183</b>: What fun to be planning your next trip! I am so glad that you've picked up a few tips for Florence. What other places in Italy will be on your itinerary?
<b>bilboburgler</b>: That's funny! Guess the one who didn't make it is still going around & around!
I just started Elizabeth George's newest novel and was surprised when I came to the chapter set in Lucca. It was fun to read & recognize places (streets, gates, market place, park on the ramparts ...) referred to in the book!
<b>john183</b>: What fun to be planning your next trip! I am so glad that you've picked up a few tips for Florence. What other places in Italy will be on your itinerary?
<b>bilboburgler</b>: That's funny! Guess the one who didn't make it is still going around & around!
