BOB THE NAVIGATOR

NAVIGATING IN IRELAND---A TRIP REPORT <BR>BY BOB THE NAVIGATOR <BR> <BR>It was my first visit to the Emerald Isle, but my wife spent some time there when our daughter was in graduate <BR>school in Dublin in 1993. I must admit that I had been procrastinating due to two factors that had me <BR>somewhat apprehensive---driving on the wrong side and the unpredictable weather. Our thanks go out to <BR>Cathy Lynch and to KAM for their valuable input on the Fodors forum. It was a great trip. <BR> <BR>OVERALL OBSERVATIONS: <BR>The Irish people are wonderful ! We have never enjoyed such genuine hospitality in our 16 previous trips to Europe. They all must first kiss the Blarney stone and then go to a class on how to be nice to tourists. <BR> <BR>The food was a pleasant surprise. I must have expected Irish stew every day, but we ended up eating wonderful near gourmet cuisine at several locations. See the list below. <BR> <BR>As I suspected, the weather is a major variable. We spent the first 6 days on the spectacular west coast <BR>and had rain about half the time. Since we live in Florida we were concerned about the threat of hurricane <BR>Isaac before we left home. Well, it did miss Florida but it followed us up the gulfstream and gave us two <BR>days of gale force winds and horizontal rain at the Dingle peninsula. Weather is a definate factor. <BR> <BR>Driving in Ireland is not for everyone. We got along just fine, thanks to the skill and nerve of our companion Ed [ yes, the same Ed from the southern Italy sojourn], but I would not suggest it for those who are not confident and experienced drivers in foreign lands. <BR> <BR>The scenery and natural splendor made the trip worthwhile. The colors are spectacular---from the varied <BR>shades of green and gray to the bright pastels of the shops and pubs---be sure to take your camera. <BR> <BR>TRIP HIGHLIGHTS <BR> <BR>1. The Slea Head drive on the Dingle. It reminded me of the Big Sur, but with alot more history. <BR>2. The Cliffs of Moher. We got lucky and hit them in the late afternoon sunlight---WOW ! <BR>3. The village of Kinsale. This small port city near Cork was a delight. Catch the walking tour <BR>that leaves form the tourist office at about 1100 each day---the guide was terrific on the history. <BR>4. The traditional Irish music in Doolin. We were there on a Sat. nite and were captivated. <BR>5. The Rock of Cashel, Glendalough in the Wicklows, and the crosses at Ahenny. <BR> <BR>GOOD EATS---IN RANK ORDER <BR> <BR>Chez Hans---Cashel---in the shadow of the Rock and wonderful <BR>Man Friday---Kinsale---great view back to the village <BR>Skippers----Ventry[near Dingle]---surprising French cuisine at the entry to the Slea Head drive <BR>Mitchells---Clifden---the best we found in the Connemara region <BR>Monks----Ballyvaughn----great seafood chowder for lunch <BR> <BR>FAVORITE B&Bs---WE STAYED AT SIX <BR> <BR>The Mallamore Country House---near Clifden <BR>The Mt. Eagle Lodge---Ventry---great location to drive the Dingle <BR> <BR>It was a memorable experience---you have to like Ireland. My advise is to pick your timing well and do not <BR>try to drive too far any given day---you should double the time you think it may take. Take your time and <BR>savor the Irish experience---it will reward you. <BR> <BR>BOB THE NAVIGATOR <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR>

judy

Thanks Bob, a good trip report! I can not wait to go! I will leave the driving to my own "Navigator".

John

Hi Bob Welcome back! <BR> <BR>Had the same impression that you had, except maybe on the FOOD! I was lucky my house on the south Coast was well anchored against those storms! Thought the Burren was the most unique spot I had ever seen! Too bad we never got together along our journeys! My next trip, hopefully, will be skiing in Lech!

Howard

Hello <BR> <BR>I just returned from 12 days in Ireland and have many of the same impressions that Bob did. I particularly want to comment on the food. <BR> <BR>I though the food was really good, and did not fit stereotypes at all. (By the way I happened to eat at Chez Han in Cashel as Bob did, and thought it was excellent.) <BR> <BR>I found the food to be as good as in other countries with much better food reputations (e.g. France and Italy) At least this was the case in places where one would spend $15 - $20 per person for dinner. I would think that there are places in France, Italy etc. where one could pay a lot for truly outstanding cuisine. <BR> <BR>By the way, there was no need to preplan where to eat. Sometimes we just walked around looking for something appealing, sometimes we asked local residents for recommendations. <BR> <BR>We also sometimes ate in pubs, sometimes ate in moderate/upper moderate places. <BR> <BR>Howard

Cathy

Bob, <BR>Delighted to hear that you had a great trip. The food in Ireland has improved greatly in the last few years. All the fresh fish and organic meat and veg etc together with good restaurants so I totally agree with you on the food comment as I travel frequently throughout Europe and have had better italian meals in Dublin than in Rome, but that is how it goes. Did you have a chance to eat at Ballymaloe House and Restaurant in Co Cork ? If not then do check it out the next time as it is food heaven. <BR> <BR>You were unlucky with the weather - and sort of lucky as it has not stopped raining for the past week - with daylight fast fading as soon as it appears and high winds - def. not a typical Sept./Oct. <BR> <BR>Next time do call and visit, <BR> <BR>Cathy

driver

Bob, Where did you get your car? <BR>I am amazed at the prices in Ireland.

BOB THE NAVIGATOR

We usually use Auto Europe for the cars <BR>but this time we used Dan Dooley. They <BR>were the only ones who could give us a <BR>full size wagon with auto---we had 4 <BR>people and wanted the room. It was not <BR>cheap---a Ford Mondeo wagon.

Pam

I heartily agree with Cathy about the improvement of food in Ireland. I started going to Ireland about 12 years, when I started dating and later married myself an Irishman. The food was okay back then--it basically met your basic dietary needs. But it has improved tremendously over the past 5 years of so. Overall, food in Ireland has a ways to go, as it's still hit or miss as to whether you'll get a good meal, but the good restaurants are starting to overtake the bad. <BR> <BR>I travel constantly for work (mainly in the U.S., but sometimes in Europe), and so eat in a variety of excellent restaurants on an expense account, and without a doubt, the best meal I've ever had, in any country, was in an inn somewhere in County Galway. Can't remember the name, but I'll know it when I go back!

Mike

That's the correct side of the road you were driving on. Just because Napoleon was left handed and a dictator ...

curious

Just curious, when is the best time to <BR>visit Ireland to miss the rains??

James

The only way you'll miss rain when in Ireland is by luck. Usually, June and September are the driest months, but whenever I tell someone that and come to visit in September, invariably it's the wettest September in history. <BR> <BR>BTW, it's pretty miserable over there now--more than than even the natives are used to.