Murphy's Great Adventure Part 1: France
Jun 23rd, 2006, 03:11 PM
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Am greatly enjoying your unique version of a trip report. Please continue as soon as you can pry the keyboard from your roommate's hands.
I've traveled alone and I've traveled with family. There's something to be said about sharing experiences with another (like a husband) or seeing things through new eyes (like those of your grandkids), but there's also a whole lot to be said in favor of being able to just absorb all that you're seeing without the distraction of conversation.
Call me awful, but I prefer going it alone with only my wonder for company.
I've traveled alone and I've traveled with family. There's something to be said about sharing experiences with another (like a husband) or seeing things through new eyes (like those of your grandkids), but there's also a whole lot to be said in favor of being able to just absorb all that you're seeing without the distraction of conversation.
Call me awful, but I prefer going it alone with only my wonder for company.
Jun 23rd, 2006, 04:27 PM
#23
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You guys are so encouraging, thank you!
tuscanlifedit - lol! Actually, one of the best things about my trip is discovering that travel is wonderful, but that home is ok too. There is a lot of happiness to be found in ones own back yard.
<font color="Green">An Embarassing Travel Tale for the Masses....</font>
I have often contemplated that for the number of people who saw me naked on this trip I should have made money (no, I'm not refering to that). To prove that travel can produce some interesting stories I will try to reconstruct one here. Consider it a cautionary tale if you will.
So I am in Rennes and need to do laundry (that is not the funny part). The hostels laundry room is out in the courtyard. For background, imagine a building constructed so the tv room, kitchen, front desk and hostel rooms all look out onto a main courtyard via large picture window . I change into a skirt because well, I am going to wash everything else. I trudge the rest of my grungy laundry downstairs and accross the courtyard in the clear plastic bags I was storing them in (a good space saving tip I picked up from this site). So, hand in hand with my baggies full of dirty underwear ect, I make my way accross the open courtyard. Except the wind is really tugging at my skirt and I am struggling to maintain some semblence of dignity. There is another male person also heading to the laundry room and he is behind me waiting for me to open the door as I have the key. I just cannot find a way to open this door. I am cursing everything I can think of in life struggling to open it without success. Perhaps this responsible for the giant gust of wind that literally picks my skirt up over my waist (a little cosmic well F you too revenge..) I drop all my clear plastic baggies which immediately tumble down the ramp to land at this guys feet and pull my best Marylin Monroe, dropping the keys to the door in a bush in the process. So now I am on my hands and knees holding my skirt and trying to find the key, while with some otherworldly hand am snatching up my gross laundry bags from the ground. It doesn't escape my attention that the guy is super attractive which just makest me cringe even more. This seems like a good time to point out I am not wearing any underwear. I am doing laundry!!!! I find the key, refuse all eye contact with the Orlando Bloom lookalike standing behind me and kick the crap out of that door getting it open. Finally in the building, I am rushing to dump everything in a washing machine and low and behold what's his face is talking to me. Low and behold I realize, what's his face is asking me out for coffee - you've got to be kidding! I barely stumble out a few red faced sentences before high tailing it out of there. Back in my room I just start laughing (what else can you do?) and think to myself - god that guy was cute and you totally blew him off. So I have to go back and transfer everything to the dryer. I change into a longer skirt, ignore the less than obvious smile from the guy at the front desk and put on a brave face to collect my things. Mr cutie is waiting for me and explains (just in case I missed it) that he really would like to go for coffee. Even more shocking, I say fine, ok, why not, when in France, whatever. It was the beginning of a great relationship - doomed to be a short relationship of course becuase naturally I had other places to be besides Rennes. It reminds me though that travel pursued in the spirit of openness can be a truely rewarding experience. It also reminds me that skirts can be an embarassing choice on a windly day and that as handy as clear plastic ziplocs are - consider just hauling your whole backpack down to the laundry room.
Vitre
A great day trip option. I had one of the best meals here of my entire trip at Auberge St. Jean (wine red canopy by the castle - sorry those are all the details I have). Interesting castle, certainly picturesque - but the limited access was frustrating. What is really interesting to me about chateuxs is not necessarily where all the rich people lived, but the lower floors where the common you and me's took up residence. I found you rarely got access to these areas and I thought that was a shame. What sticks out in my memory is the large Italian highschool group that decended upon the castle at the same time I did. How unfortunate. What is the necessity to scream? Tell me now, what? I also footed the bill for another taxi ride out to the home of Madame de Sevigny (sp?) which cost about 11 Euros one way. The grounds and surrounding park are very peaceful. I though this as I waited for my tour guide (mandatory). Then I heard this familiar screaming and realized...oh man! That Italian school group had arrived (are they following me? - or am I following them?). An hour later the hassled tour guide gave me an apologetic grimace and told me we could go over it again just the two of us if I wanted. I thanked him but declined and set off in search of an aspirin instead. The home is nice, but still lived in so access is extremely limited. Plenty to do in Vitre, though some of the sites are out of town which gets expensive if you don't have your own vehicle.
Ok wrist cramp. I will hit Fougeres next I think....
tuscanlifedit - lol! Actually, one of the best things about my trip is discovering that travel is wonderful, but that home is ok too. There is a lot of happiness to be found in ones own back yard.
<font color="Green">An Embarassing Travel Tale for the Masses....</font>
I have often contemplated that for the number of people who saw me naked on this trip I should have made money (no, I'm not refering to that). To prove that travel can produce some interesting stories I will try to reconstruct one here. Consider it a cautionary tale if you will.
So I am in Rennes and need to do laundry (that is not the funny part). The hostels laundry room is out in the courtyard. For background, imagine a building constructed so the tv room, kitchen, front desk and hostel rooms all look out onto a main courtyard via large picture window . I change into a skirt because well, I am going to wash everything else. I trudge the rest of my grungy laundry downstairs and accross the courtyard in the clear plastic bags I was storing them in (a good space saving tip I picked up from this site). So, hand in hand with my baggies full of dirty underwear ect, I make my way accross the open courtyard. Except the wind is really tugging at my skirt and I am struggling to maintain some semblence of dignity. There is another male person also heading to the laundry room and he is behind me waiting for me to open the door as I have the key. I just cannot find a way to open this door. I am cursing everything I can think of in life struggling to open it without success. Perhaps this responsible for the giant gust of wind that literally picks my skirt up over my waist (a little cosmic well F you too revenge..) I drop all my clear plastic baggies which immediately tumble down the ramp to land at this guys feet and pull my best Marylin Monroe, dropping the keys to the door in a bush in the process. So now I am on my hands and knees holding my skirt and trying to find the key, while with some otherworldly hand am snatching up my gross laundry bags from the ground. It doesn't escape my attention that the guy is super attractive which just makest me cringe even more. This seems like a good time to point out I am not wearing any underwear. I am doing laundry!!!! I find the key, refuse all eye contact with the Orlando Bloom lookalike standing behind me and kick the crap out of that door getting it open. Finally in the building, I am rushing to dump everything in a washing machine and low and behold what's his face is talking to me. Low and behold I realize, what's his face is asking me out for coffee - you've got to be kidding! I barely stumble out a few red faced sentences before high tailing it out of there. Back in my room I just start laughing (what else can you do?) and think to myself - god that guy was cute and you totally blew him off. So I have to go back and transfer everything to the dryer. I change into a longer skirt, ignore the less than obvious smile from the guy at the front desk and put on a brave face to collect my things. Mr cutie is waiting for me and explains (just in case I missed it) that he really would like to go for coffee. Even more shocking, I say fine, ok, why not, when in France, whatever. It was the beginning of a great relationship - doomed to be a short relationship of course becuase naturally I had other places to be besides Rennes. It reminds me though that travel pursued in the spirit of openness can be a truely rewarding experience. It also reminds me that skirts can be an embarassing choice on a windly day and that as handy as clear plastic ziplocs are - consider just hauling your whole backpack down to the laundry room.
Vitre
A great day trip option. I had one of the best meals here of my entire trip at Auberge St. Jean (wine red canopy by the castle - sorry those are all the details I have). Interesting castle, certainly picturesque - but the limited access was frustrating. What is really interesting to me about chateuxs is not necessarily where all the rich people lived, but the lower floors where the common you and me's took up residence. I found you rarely got access to these areas and I thought that was a shame. What sticks out in my memory is the large Italian highschool group that decended upon the castle at the same time I did. How unfortunate. What is the necessity to scream? Tell me now, what? I also footed the bill for another taxi ride out to the home of Madame de Sevigny (sp?) which cost about 11 Euros one way. The grounds and surrounding park are very peaceful. I though this as I waited for my tour guide (mandatory). Then I heard this familiar screaming and realized...oh man! That Italian school group had arrived (are they following me? - or am I following them?). An hour later the hassled tour guide gave me an apologetic grimace and told me we could go over it again just the two of us if I wanted. I thanked him but declined and set off in search of an aspirin instead. The home is nice, but still lived in so access is extremely limited. Plenty to do in Vitre, though some of the sites are out of town which gets expensive if you don't have your own vehicle.
Ok wrist cramp. I will hit Fougeres next I think....
Jun 23rd, 2006, 07:39 PM
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I shall never percieve laundry on a windy day from the same perspective again. A classic! I also must commend the bit on the Metro up at the very top. I've been eyeing this msg board for about 6 months now and the amount of angst and trepedation over using what has to be the world's most user friendly mass-transit system is incredible. Keep it coming, and may your path again cross someday with the OrlandoBloomoid CoffeeBoy
Jun 25th, 2006, 04:36 PM
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Ok, I digressed on that tale somewhat. Continuing on...
Fougeres
A really beautiful town. Lovely to walk around and the views from Fougeres's feudal fortress are stunning. There is easy bus service from Rennes - I recommend passing the fortress and getting off at the top of the towns major hill. From there you can take in a church/public garden and walk down to the site (beats walking up the hill). What else can one say? Very nice. If in a rush it probably doesn't strickly require an entire day, but when by public transport I found the one town/day plan set a nice pace.
<font color="orange">Meals: Timing, Budgeting and Eating Alone...</font>
Remember that many chateuxs (Vitre, Fougeres etc) close from noon-2:00pm. So why not give in and go for a nice long lunch? If you are on a budget (or not) making lunch your main meal for the day is a great idea. You can get into good restaurants without reservations and you can order a great formula (entree, main, dessert) at reduced prices. By myself I budgeted 40Euros/day for food. Which is a lot for most backpackers but that took into condsideration bottled water and snacks etc. I often didn't use my full 40 but sometimes I exceeded it if I went to a really nice restaurant. So when you balance it out 40 was about right. I've noticed the topic of eating alone comes up on this forum frequently. I never once had a problem being denied a table in France or Greece. I on a few occasions got poor service but then I can't automatically attribute that to my being alone - everyone gets rude unattentive waiters sometimes. I was told by a restaurant owner in Greece once that in all earnestness I should try to look happier and more friendly when at such a nice establishment. I thought I was happy and I know I was being at least polite anyway - looking around I noticed none of the couples around me were beaming with outward expressions of glee. Needless to say his advice had the opposite effect - initial quiet contentment turned to irritation and self conciousness. I will chop it up to not understanding one another. On the whole its nothing. You have to expect a few stares and glances, but then at some point you will stare and glance at those around you so fairs fair. The only time I had trouble eating alone was in small villages in Greece - where plateias are often full of chatting men. It happened on several occasions - I would walk into the town center, all
conversation would cease and every person would turn to stare and stare and stare. Hey guys! Look at the circus freak that just wandered into town....Hmmm, I digress again though. Greece is the sequel of this tale. Needless to say, dinning alone in France is just like dinning alone at home - no big deal.
Quimper
I regret my visit to Quimper. On so many levels. It was sort of far for a good day trip (2.5-3 hours). The ticket was expensive and I didn't really feel there was a lot "to do" per se. It does have a pleasant main street with lots of trees overhanings a canal that gradually turns into a river that I can only assume eventually goes into the sea. Here I touch upon my biggest gripe. I thought Quimper was right on the ocean. It is of course not Quimpers fault that it is not right on the ocean, but I resented it anyway. I am going to point out now the silliest statment I made (repeatedly) on this trip:
<font color="blue">It doesn't look far on the map</font>
This singular assumption was responsible for hours of random wandering, foot pain, grumpiness and inappropriate swearing during this
trip. Followed by <font color="blue">"it can't be much farther"</font> and <font color="blue">well, you've already come all this way..."</font>. Quimper is not by the ocean - it is not within walking distance of the ocean either and believe me I gave it a whirl. It is important to remember that when you walk out of town you will have to walk all the way back at some point. Just a thought.
Fougeres
A really beautiful town. Lovely to walk around and the views from Fougeres's feudal fortress are stunning. There is easy bus service from Rennes - I recommend passing the fortress and getting off at the top of the towns major hill. From there you can take in a church/public garden and walk down to the site (beats walking up the hill). What else can one say? Very nice. If in a rush it probably doesn't strickly require an entire day, but when by public transport I found the one town/day plan set a nice pace.
<font color="orange">Meals: Timing, Budgeting and Eating Alone...</font>
Remember that many chateuxs (Vitre, Fougeres etc) close from noon-2:00pm. So why not give in and go for a nice long lunch? If you are on a budget (or not) making lunch your main meal for the day is a great idea. You can get into good restaurants without reservations and you can order a great formula (entree, main, dessert) at reduced prices. By myself I budgeted 40Euros/day for food. Which is a lot for most backpackers but that took into condsideration bottled water and snacks etc. I often didn't use my full 40 but sometimes I exceeded it if I went to a really nice restaurant. So when you balance it out 40 was about right. I've noticed the topic of eating alone comes up on this forum frequently. I never once had a problem being denied a table in France or Greece. I on a few occasions got poor service but then I can't automatically attribute that to my being alone - everyone gets rude unattentive waiters sometimes. I was told by a restaurant owner in Greece once that in all earnestness I should try to look happier and more friendly when at such a nice establishment. I thought I was happy and I know I was being at least polite anyway - looking around I noticed none of the couples around me were beaming with outward expressions of glee. Needless to say his advice had the opposite effect - initial quiet contentment turned to irritation and self conciousness. I will chop it up to not understanding one another. On the whole its nothing. You have to expect a few stares and glances, but then at some point you will stare and glance at those around you so fairs fair. The only time I had trouble eating alone was in small villages in Greece - where plateias are often full of chatting men. It happened on several occasions - I would walk into the town center, all
conversation would cease and every person would turn to stare and stare and stare. Hey guys! Look at the circus freak that just wandered into town....Hmmm, I digress again though. Greece is the sequel of this tale. Needless to say, dinning alone in France is just like dinning alone at home - no big deal.
Quimper
I regret my visit to Quimper. On so many levels. It was sort of far for a good day trip (2.5-3 hours). The ticket was expensive and I didn't really feel there was a lot "to do" per se. It does have a pleasant main street with lots of trees overhanings a canal that gradually turns into a river that I can only assume eventually goes into the sea. Here I touch upon my biggest gripe. I thought Quimper was right on the ocean. It is of course not Quimpers fault that it is not right on the ocean, but I resented it anyway. I am going to point out now the silliest statment I made (repeatedly) on this trip:
<font color="blue">It doesn't look far on the map</font>
This singular assumption was responsible for hours of random wandering, foot pain, grumpiness and inappropriate swearing during this
trip. Followed by <font color="blue">"it can't be much farther"</font> and <font color="blue">well, you've already come all this way..."</font>. Quimper is not by the ocean - it is not within walking distance of the ocean either and believe me I gave it a whirl. It is important to remember that when you walk out of town you will have to walk all the way back at some point. Just a thought.
Jun 25th, 2006, 05:56 PM
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Murphy, I'm loving your report! I don't think you'll ever regret giving up your job, etc. to take the trip - memories are worth SO much! I would have loved to that that sort of thing when I was young, but no, I had to go and get married at age 21, 3 kids by your age - so any traveling much later, needless to say. Of course, I don't have to stay in hostels, but those experiences are priceless! As others have said, I love your honesty - keep it coming.
Jun 26th, 2006, 05:56 PM
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I'm starting to suspect that Murphy's Law was written for you!
I haven't enjoyed a lone woman's travel report as much as this since laartista's solo travels back in early spring. The two of you should travel together next time.
Jun 26th, 2006, 07:04 PM
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Murphy, as someone who is much older than you and travels mostly solo principally through home exchanges, I am loving your reports.
I am a firm believer that he who travels the farthest on the least amount of money wins. You look like a winner to me!
By the way, I will admit with solo travel you sometimes get the "lonelies" but, over all, I must admit I prefer it to the constant compromises involved in traveling with someone else. For example, I do not have to go to Versailles AGAIN because my companion has not seen it, etc.
I have traveled widely in France, but have not been to all the places you visited.
Great report!
I am a firm believer that he who travels the farthest on the least amount of money wins. You look like a winner to me!
By the way, I will admit with solo travel you sometimes get the "lonelies" but, over all, I must admit I prefer it to the constant compromises involved in traveling with someone else. For example, I do not have to go to Versailles AGAIN because my companion has not seen it, etc.
I have traveled widely in France, but have not been to all the places you visited.
Great report!
Jun 29th, 2006, 10:04 AM
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A sistar of the soul!!! (i.e. skirt incident...I'm pretty much a klutz anyway...)
I am enjoying this ... and you write so well - I have no idea what you look like but Meg Ryan is playing you in the story you're directing in my imagination.
Orlando Bloom, eh?
I am enjoying this ... and you write so well - I have no idea what you look like but Meg Ryan is playing you in the story you're directing in my imagination.
Orlando Bloom, eh?
Jun 29th, 2006, 10:40 AM
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Oh dear, I didn't mean to procrastinate on this so much - so I will finish out France today and then start on Greece. All in all, I have a lot more to say about Greece as I was there for the bulk of my trip, saw a great variety of things and formed any number of thoughts and opinions on the place. France is pretty well documented on this forum and many Fodorites know a great deal more about it than I do, so I feel a bit limited
Its nice to share about my trip. Its so hard to tell freinds and family about it - how do you summarize a 3 month adventure when people ask you - "so how was your trip?". They likely don't have all day and aren't really asking for an itimized list of what you did, how you felt and who you met. "Actually", I want to shout "it sort of changed my life - do you have a few days free for coffee!!!?" It is kind of depressing.
Dinan
I had planned on staying in Dinan for a few nights but chose to stay in Rennes instead. So my visit to Dinan turned into a day-trip, which all in all suited me fine. Dinan is a very attractive town, well worth a visit and it would have made a good alternative base for the area. I recommend a look through the towns fortress, which has an interesting crypt in the basement of one building. It was very easy to spend a full day, walking and snapping pictures in Dinan - so I recommend you take your time and enjoy.
St. Malo
Well, I had to leave Rennes at some point and this is where I made the break. I stayed in St. Malo for 2 nights before returning to Paris. I liked St. Malo. I observed several comments on this board regarding its lack of authenticity etc, but I didn't find anything "fake" about it. The town was occupied by the Germans and much of it was destroyed in a very real war. The French painstakingly rebuilt/reconstructed it - happily, because it is very beautiful. Also happily, it is right on the ocean (no hiking required). By this time in France I am (and this is embarrassing to admit) a little "quaint towned out", in addition to "churched out" and frankly "museums about medieval thingsed out". So upon arrival in St. Malo I promptly headed for the Grand Aquarium. What a great idea! I really enjoyed my visit - it was quiet and peaceful and totally different from anything I had done in France previously. There is a fun little Nautibus ride (yes, the Nauti-bus I am not kidding), an interesting room with some sharks/turtles etc and endless rooms of very interesting fish etc. Great for kids or as I am not a kid and I enjoyed it - great for adults too. For the rest of my first day in St. Malo I visited the town of Cromburg which is close by - I will touch upon it momentarily. As for old town and St. Servan - get those walking shoes on and hit the road - wonderful architecture and many wonderful statues. I especially enjoyed a walk outside the walls down by the sea, just be aware that tide does come in at some point. I found the tour of Memorial 30-45 very worthwhile. The site constitutes a series of bunkers the Germans used in WWII. The tour was in french, but multilingual handouts were provided and the guide (who was extremely informative) was pleased to answer any questions posed in English or French. The bunkers house some interesting photos of St. Malo before, during and after the war which highlight how truely devestating the war was to this town. There is a French movie at the end which is optional - I skipped it because it was long (an hour) and because my French is really terrible (you can tell by all the spelling mistakes in my report that my native English is not so hot either). I hated the hostel in St. Malo. It is actually very nice and very clean (which is a treat), but it is really far away from old town in addition the extremely early curfew made me feel like I was twelve. Really this is just a hotel for school kids - I felt like a summer camp counsellor who was not getting paid. Fine if you can't find anything else, but do try hard to find something else. Also, if you are standing at the train station and there is a part of your brain that tells you <font color="blue">doesn't look far on the map</font> I can walk - don't listen to it! It is far. It is really really far and you are at risk for making yourself one unhappy traveler.
Note: <font color="purple">Tipping Tour Guides:</font> I observed it is common practice to tip tour guides even when they are mandatory, so do have some Loonies etc on hand for that purpose.
Cromburg
I decided I really wanted to see Cromburg's chateux, so I hopped on the train from St. Malo. I was only there for maybe 4 hours and that was plenty to accomplish what I wanted to do. The train station is maybe not an inspiring introduction to Cromburg. It is rather far out of the centre of town so if lazy or in a rush consider grabbing a taxi from the taxi stand out front. Both lazy and in a rush, I failed to do this and regretted it immensly - but then I had already done a 2 hour walkabout in St. Malo looking for my hostel and was feeling a little sensitive. The chateux is nice and the grounds surrounding are very pretty. Worth a stop, but I maybe wouldn't go too far out of my way or time to visit. The town itself seemed virtually deserted when I was there - I kept expecting a tumbleweed to roll by. In fairness, it was raining so what can one expect? You can only view the chateux via tour guide and English handouts are provided. It is not (in my opinion) appropriate to read the handout outloud during the tour. A German family disregarded all dirty looks and eye-rolling sent thier way during my visit - they just would not shut up. It was embarassing really and we should have been grown ups and told them so politely instead of seething about it the whole time. Needless to say we all tipped the guide a little extra for her trouble. Cromburgs not suitable for a full day trip I don't imagine, but plesant enough to whittle away 3 hours or so.
<font color="green">Return to Paris/Final Thoughts</font>
I returned to Paris for 3 more nights before flying to Athens. Arriving on my birthday, I went to a very nice restaurant pulled straight from my guide book (Le Petite Gourmand? - rue de Troyens sp?) right by the Arc de Triumph. Drank an embarassing amount of wine, then wandered over to the Arc to look around. I think 8Euros to get to the top is an absurd price but it was my birthday so I did it anyway. Nice view of Paris and Eiffel sparkeling away in the distance. I sat and contemplated my trip thus far. I really love France. I say that without reservation now that I am home - I felt it at the time as well, but had to admit I was ready to leave. I considered France a "pre trip". It was a warm up for my trip to Greece. I am really glad I did this, because apparently I needed a warm up. I just wasn't as happy as I had planned to be. <font color="green">My itinerary clearly indicated that I was supposed to be much happier</font>. There is a differance between being happy/content and having giggling fall down fun . That is what I had to come to terms with when it came to the subject of travelling alone. That is what I came to accept in France which allowed me to have a much better go of it in Greece. I felt irritated with myself in France and Greece felt like a fresh start - the beginning of my "real" trip. My feet were beginning to feel better, I was in better shape, I was getting used to all of the walking, backpack carrying etc. My standards of cleanliness had decreased, I felt more flexible, had more confidence and felt more at ease by the time I left France and for this I am grateful because the next two months in Greece were a challenge (albeit a wonderful challenge). I absolutly want to return to France again (and again) - now that I have some overseas travel under my belt, I just know I would enjoy the country that much more.
I would be happy to answer any questions! I hope you will find some interest in part II: Greece as well!
Cheers,
Murphy
Its nice to share about my trip. Its so hard to tell freinds and family about it - how do you summarize a 3 month adventure when people ask you - "so how was your trip?". They likely don't have all day and aren't really asking for an itimized list of what you did, how you felt and who you met. "Actually", I want to shout "it sort of changed my life - do you have a few days free for coffee!!!?" It is kind of depressing.
Dinan
I had planned on staying in Dinan for a few nights but chose to stay in Rennes instead. So my visit to Dinan turned into a day-trip, which all in all suited me fine. Dinan is a very attractive town, well worth a visit and it would have made a good alternative base for the area. I recommend a look through the towns fortress, which has an interesting crypt in the basement of one building. It was very easy to spend a full day, walking and snapping pictures in Dinan - so I recommend you take your time and enjoy.
St. Malo
Well, I had to leave Rennes at some point and this is where I made the break. I stayed in St. Malo for 2 nights before returning to Paris. I liked St. Malo. I observed several comments on this board regarding its lack of authenticity etc, but I didn't find anything "fake" about it. The town was occupied by the Germans and much of it was destroyed in a very real war. The French painstakingly rebuilt/reconstructed it - happily, because it is very beautiful. Also happily, it is right on the ocean (no hiking required). By this time in France I am (and this is embarrassing to admit) a little "quaint towned out", in addition to "churched out" and frankly "museums about medieval thingsed out". So upon arrival in St. Malo I promptly headed for the Grand Aquarium. What a great idea! I really enjoyed my visit - it was quiet and peaceful and totally different from anything I had done in France previously. There is a fun little Nautibus ride (yes, the Nauti-bus I am not kidding), an interesting room with some sharks/turtles etc and endless rooms of very interesting fish etc. Great for kids or as I am not a kid and I enjoyed it - great for adults too. For the rest of my first day in St. Malo I visited the town of Cromburg which is close by - I will touch upon it momentarily. As for old town and St. Servan - get those walking shoes on and hit the road - wonderful architecture and many wonderful statues. I especially enjoyed a walk outside the walls down by the sea, just be aware that tide does come in at some point. I found the tour of Memorial 30-45 very worthwhile. The site constitutes a series of bunkers the Germans used in WWII. The tour was in french, but multilingual handouts were provided and the guide (who was extremely informative) was pleased to answer any questions posed in English or French. The bunkers house some interesting photos of St. Malo before, during and after the war which highlight how truely devestating the war was to this town. There is a French movie at the end which is optional - I skipped it because it was long (an hour) and because my French is really terrible (you can tell by all the spelling mistakes in my report that my native English is not so hot either). I hated the hostel in St. Malo. It is actually very nice and very clean (which is a treat), but it is really far away from old town in addition the extremely early curfew made me feel like I was twelve. Really this is just a hotel for school kids - I felt like a summer camp counsellor who was not getting paid. Fine if you can't find anything else, but do try hard to find something else. Also, if you are standing at the train station and there is a part of your brain that tells you <font color="blue">doesn't look far on the map</font> I can walk - don't listen to it! It is far. It is really really far and you are at risk for making yourself one unhappy traveler.
Note: <font color="purple">Tipping Tour Guides:</font> I observed it is common practice to tip tour guides even when they are mandatory, so do have some Loonies etc on hand for that purpose.
Cromburg
I decided I really wanted to see Cromburg's chateux, so I hopped on the train from St. Malo. I was only there for maybe 4 hours and that was plenty to accomplish what I wanted to do. The train station is maybe not an inspiring introduction to Cromburg. It is rather far out of the centre of town so if lazy or in a rush consider grabbing a taxi from the taxi stand out front. Both lazy and in a rush, I failed to do this and regretted it immensly - but then I had already done a 2 hour walkabout in St. Malo looking for my hostel and was feeling a little sensitive. The chateux is nice and the grounds surrounding are very pretty. Worth a stop, but I maybe wouldn't go too far out of my way or time to visit. The town itself seemed virtually deserted when I was there - I kept expecting a tumbleweed to roll by. In fairness, it was raining so what can one expect? You can only view the chateux via tour guide and English handouts are provided. It is not (in my opinion) appropriate to read the handout outloud during the tour. A German family disregarded all dirty looks and eye-rolling sent thier way during my visit - they just would not shut up. It was embarassing really and we should have been grown ups and told them so politely instead of seething about it the whole time. Needless to say we all tipped the guide a little extra for her trouble. Cromburgs not suitable for a full day trip I don't imagine, but plesant enough to whittle away 3 hours or so.
<font color="green">Return to Paris/Final Thoughts</font>
I returned to Paris for 3 more nights before flying to Athens. Arriving on my birthday, I went to a very nice restaurant pulled straight from my guide book (Le Petite Gourmand? - rue de Troyens sp?) right by the Arc de Triumph. Drank an embarassing amount of wine, then wandered over to the Arc to look around. I think 8Euros to get to the top is an absurd price but it was my birthday so I did it anyway. Nice view of Paris and Eiffel sparkeling away in the distance. I sat and contemplated my trip thus far. I really love France. I say that without reservation now that I am home - I felt it at the time as well, but had to admit I was ready to leave. I considered France a "pre trip". It was a warm up for my trip to Greece. I am really glad I did this, because apparently I needed a warm up. I just wasn't as happy as I had planned to be. <font color="green">My itinerary clearly indicated that I was supposed to be much happier</font>. There is a differance between being happy/content and having giggling fall down fun . That is what I had to come to terms with when it came to the subject of travelling alone. That is what I came to accept in France which allowed me to have a much better go of it in Greece. I felt irritated with myself in France and Greece felt like a fresh start - the beginning of my "real" trip. My feet were beginning to feel better, I was in better shape, I was getting used to all of the walking, backpack carrying etc. My standards of cleanliness had decreased, I felt more flexible, had more confidence and felt more at ease by the time I left France and for this I am grateful because the next two months in Greece were a challenge (albeit a wonderful challenge). I absolutly want to return to France again (and again) - now that I have some overseas travel under my belt, I just know I would enjoy the country that much more.
I would be happy to answer any questions! I hope you will find some interest in part II: Greece as well!
Cheers,
Murphy
Jun 29th, 2006, 10:47 AM
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Oh also, I will post some pictures probably tomorrow. I have a film camera, so I have to decide which rolls to transfer on to CD, then figure out how to post them because I have no idea where to best do so.
