Lisbon, Alentejo and Madrid: Nikki's trip report
#24
Original Poster
Thursday morning we walked to the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum. I enjoyed this museum as much as any museum I have visited recently. The space is beautifully designed (and there are plenty of benches in the galleries!). The art in the original museum was amassed by one collector and a recent addition houses the collection of his wife. A very interesting assortment of paintings from old masters through contemporary works, so there is something for everyone.
It was another gorgeous day, so we had lunch outdoors back at the Cerveceria La Moderna. We had really liked the smoked salmon the previous night, so we had more of that, as well as gazpacho and a good cheese plate. And then I believe it was siesta time.
In the evening we went to hear flamenco at Casa Patas (www.casapatas.com). The show began at 10:30, and restaurants didn’t seem to open until 9:00, so I didn’t think we would have enough time to go out to dinner before the show unless we ate at the restaurant attached to the flamenco club. So that is what we did, and we were very happy with our meal. First there were ham tapas on bread with tomato. Then we shared artichokes with bacon and grilled octopus, which was terrific. I followed that up with roast lamb shanks and potatoes, and my husband had sea bass, all quite good. For dessert there was homemade custard with cinnamon.
The flamenco show that followed was spectacular. We had great seats up front because we had eaten dinner there. There was a wonderful keyboard player with a real jazz feel. The musicians showed remarkable enthusiasm and it was really fun to watch the interplay among them. There were two dancers, a man and a woman. The man was very good but the woman was unbelievable. What energy! I figure that after dancing like that, you don’t have to have sex.
We walked back to our hotel, taking a detour down Calle Echegaray, where I had read there were flamenco bars with live music. There appeared to be a lively scene, with music coming through some doorways, but it was getting to be time for us to go to bed.
Friday we explored the neighborhood a little more. We wandered down some of the streets that we had driven through on our arrival in Madrid, when we were lost. I found an internet café and tended to my e-mail. And at lunchtime, we went for a farewell Spanish lunch at El Cenador del Prado, Calle Prado 4. I had a fantastic appetizer that looks great in the photo but I can’t actually remember what it was, nor do I remember what I had for a main course. I only remember that I liked it a lot. I believe this was among the best meals of our trip.
After lunch we took a taxi to the airport, where we encountered some confusion about our flight on Easy Jet. The terminal was under construction and we made our way to the gate but were not clear that we were in the gate waiting area. It looked to us like a line for security. But when we got to the desk, we were told they were boarding a different flight and we should wait. While we waited, I was talking to a young woman who mentioned something that made me think our flight was not leaving from this gate. My husband went back to check the departures board and found that they had changed our departure gate and were already boarding.
We had an anxious few moments trying to locate the new gate, which was hiding around an awkward corner, and when we got there we found that the flight was not yet boarding. In fact, we had plenty of time. Recovered from the confusion, we boarded the plane and headed off for France.
It was another gorgeous day, so we had lunch outdoors back at the Cerveceria La Moderna. We had really liked the smoked salmon the previous night, so we had more of that, as well as gazpacho and a good cheese plate. And then I believe it was siesta time.
In the evening we went to hear flamenco at Casa Patas (www.casapatas.com). The show began at 10:30, and restaurants didn’t seem to open until 9:00, so I didn’t think we would have enough time to go out to dinner before the show unless we ate at the restaurant attached to the flamenco club. So that is what we did, and we were very happy with our meal. First there were ham tapas on bread with tomato. Then we shared artichokes with bacon and grilled octopus, which was terrific. I followed that up with roast lamb shanks and potatoes, and my husband had sea bass, all quite good. For dessert there was homemade custard with cinnamon.
The flamenco show that followed was spectacular. We had great seats up front because we had eaten dinner there. There was a wonderful keyboard player with a real jazz feel. The musicians showed remarkable enthusiasm and it was really fun to watch the interplay among them. There were two dancers, a man and a woman. The man was very good but the woman was unbelievable. What energy! I figure that after dancing like that, you don’t have to have sex.
We walked back to our hotel, taking a detour down Calle Echegaray, where I had read there were flamenco bars with live music. There appeared to be a lively scene, with music coming through some doorways, but it was getting to be time for us to go to bed.
Friday we explored the neighborhood a little more. We wandered down some of the streets that we had driven through on our arrival in Madrid, when we were lost. I found an internet café and tended to my e-mail. And at lunchtime, we went for a farewell Spanish lunch at El Cenador del Prado, Calle Prado 4. I had a fantastic appetizer that looks great in the photo but I can’t actually remember what it was, nor do I remember what I had for a main course. I only remember that I liked it a lot. I believe this was among the best meals of our trip.
After lunch we took a taxi to the airport, where we encountered some confusion about our flight on Easy Jet. The terminal was under construction and we made our way to the gate but were not clear that we were in the gate waiting area. It looked to us like a line for security. But when we got to the desk, we were told they were boarding a different flight and we should wait. While we waited, I was talking to a young woman who mentioned something that made me think our flight was not leaving from this gate. My husband went back to check the departures board and found that they had changed our departure gate and were already boarding.
We had an anxious few moments trying to locate the new gate, which was hiding around an awkward corner, and when we got there we found that the flight was not yet boarding. In fact, we had plenty of time. Recovered from the confusion, we boarded the plane and headed off for France.
#28
Original Poster
I have started posting the continuation of this trip report, beginning with our arrival in France, here:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=35065908
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=35065908
#29
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Nikki thanks for the great report!
I too thought the food at Casa Patas was pretty good, considering the usual food in Tablaos. And I agree that will secure a good seat in the show area.
El Cenador in Santa Ana looks like such a cute romantic place. We did not dine there but certainly will next time now that you confirmed it was good.
Thanks again!
ams
I too thought the food at Casa Patas was pretty good, considering the usual food in Tablaos. And I agree that will secure a good seat in the show area.
El Cenador in Santa Ana looks like such a cute romantic place. We did not dine there but certainly will next time now that you confirmed it was good.
Thanks again!
ams
#31
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Very nice job! Thyssen has a great collection and a good, well lit layout. Consider visiting Prado the next time around because it has an amazingly comprehensive collection of masterpieces that one could spend days looking at. Regarding flamenco, some time back I went to a Paco De Lucia concert with half a dozen business clients. Some of my clients lit up cigarettes after it even though half of them don't even smoke! Anyway, your trip sounds very nice. Do you plan to post pictures?
#32
Original Poster
Thanks for the nice comments.
Comfy Shoes, I posted the link to the photos in the second message on this thread.
I visited the Prado and Reina Sofia Museums last year, so the Thyssen was at the top of my list for this trip. I liked it the best of the three.
Lighting up after flamenco, very funny.
Comfy Shoes, I posted the link to the photos in the second message on this thread.
I visited the Prado and Reina Sofia Museums last year, so the Thyssen was at the top of my list for this trip. I liked it the best of the three.
Lighting up after flamenco, very funny.
#33
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Sorry to have skipped the photo link because I focussed more on the Spain part. Nice shots specially from Elvas and the church with blue borders (doesn't have a label). And the comment about smoking after flamenco was meant to be funny Hopefully it was just temporary! Regards.
#37
Original Poster
Laartista, I owe you a big thank you for recommending Santos Officios Artesanatos. A fun store with a lovely saleswoman.
Lynnesm, have fun in Madrid. And let me know how the suggestions worked out when you get back.
Lynnesm, have fun in Madrid. And let me know how the suggestions worked out when you get back.
#38
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|Nikki-Thank you so much for your report. We will be in Portugal Sept 08. I have noted your hotel The Casa de Terena-as we have 4 days to stay in that area on the way to the Algarve. Was that picture with the cozy living room with arched doorway at that hotel?? It looked very inviting-Thanks for sharing Chris
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