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Linda's Glorious Swiss Trip report! 2 weeks of bliss...

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Linda's Glorious Swiss Trip report! 2 weeks of bliss...

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Old Jul 7th, 2009, 07:21 PM
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Linda's Glorious Swiss Trip report! 2 weeks of bliss...

This was my fourth trip to Switzerland, third time in five years. My husband and I sought beautiful hiking trails, small villages and a touch of city life.

My photos are here: http://llindac.myphotoalbum.com/view...album08&page=1


We flew USAir non-stop from PHL to Zurich, then had our Swiss Saver pass validated and hopped on a train to Goppelstein, where we took a bus to Blatten in the gorgeous Lotschental Valley. We passed several villages where houses and businesses displayed the gnarled and menacing Tschaggata masks- said to scare off evil spirits. This valley is very quiet and tourism is light. We stayed in the Hotel Edelweiss; a lovely inn next to a mountain stream where from our windows we could hear the rush of water and watch cows being herded through the streets and people carrying milk cans on their backs. Our first day, we hiked to Hotel Fafleralp at the end of the valley and took in the beauty of it all.

Day2 Lotschentalweg

This is the classic walk of the valley. We hiked to Ried and took the trail straight up. At one point the trail became level as we walked to the west. However, we missed the upper trail and had to hike up a steep meadow to find it. I was in pain- I had bronchitis prior to the trip and wasn’t used to the altitude. Finally, we reached Lauchernalp where nothing was open for lunch! This was June 17 and the lift wasn’t running either. We hiked the path down to Wiler- a lovely path through the forest. I suggest using this path to get to the Weg if the lift isn’t running. We found one place open for lunch- a tiny pub called Tschaggata Pub with great pizza. This is also the only place in the valley which is open late at night and boasts a large TV, darts, and karaoke. We visited the museum in Kippel which was small, but fascinating. They had pictures and diaries of many a climber who attempted the Bietschhorn. They also had a basement full of the masks used over the past years in festivals .They also had a display of skis and mountain climbing equipment and traditional clothing worn in this remote valley. We had yet another delicious meal later at Edelweiss on their sprawling terrace.

Day 3 Anenhutte

We could see the tiny hut perched high above the glacier, but I wasn’t sure we could make it! It was one of my favorite hikes, through wooded thick forests, streams, waterfalls and rocky crag at the top. We were able to practically touch the glacier as we sat on rocks warmed by the sun amidst many flowers. We had a delicious pasta lunch at the new hut and spoke French to some fellow hikers. The descent was very steep, but soon we were on an alluvial plane which was home to many birds and plants. There were many people splashing in the streams and having picnics on this beautiful stretch of land. It’s an ideal place to start hiking for those not accustomed to altitude. Later, we walked to the store where the man was carving Tschaggata masks and bought a couple for souvenirs.

Day 4 Evolene/Val D’Herens

We said goodbye to our hotel staff and took the train to Sion, where we caught a post bus to Evolene. It was a beautiful drive through part of the Val D’Hermence across Euseigne where we drove through the famous “Pyramides”. There were many pretty villages along the way and the beauty of the massive valley was indescribable. We checked into Hotel Hermitage, where we had a slight problem with our reservation. Language was the problem, but we got a room for both nights. There were few English speakers here, but knowing French helped me a lot. This valley is evolving and there is building as they prepare for more skiers and ski lodging. In summer, it’s very quaint and you connect with the locals. We hiked the fairly steep trail behind the hotel to the tiny villages of Villa and La Sage where we enjoyed a delicious fondue at L'Ecureuil- a lovely restaurant with a fireplace and many traditional dishes. Superb! We hiked back down to the pretty village of Les Hauderes and home- a 4.5 hour journey. We ate in the smoke free dining room at Le Mossett which was delicious. They also have the fastest internet service we found in the country for 5 SF (30 minutes)

Day 5 Val D’Herens hike

We took a bus to Nax- a beautiful village set high on the mountain overlooking Sion at the entrance to the valley. The scenery from the high trail is spectacular. We had a great lunch at a terrace restaurant with stunning mountain views and acres of vineyards in the distance. We traveled the nature trail across the valley, ending in Mase, when dark clouds aborted the hike. We took a bus back to Sion and Evolene and dined once more in the terrific Le Mossett. Evolene has several charming restaurants, but most are not smoke free and this is a huge problem unless you can sit outdoors.

Day 6 Arolla

Evolene had a big bike race today, so we watched the start and walked down to the restaurant Le Refuge for lunch. They had a large smoke free dining room and the food was excellent. We then took the bus to Arolla, where we pulled our luggage uphill for 10 min to the Hotel Kurhaus. WOW! What a spectacular place. I have reviewed all our hotels on www.tripadvisor.com. Under my screen name LLindaC. After touring the massive historic hotel, we hiked to the Bas glacier under Mt. Collon, where the winds were whipping wildly around us. It was a fairly easy hike, but very rocky. Dinner that night at the hotel was memorable. They have one of the most creative chefs in Switzerland, Mr. Peter Boyer. An amuse bouche preceded each delicious meal and presentation was superb. The entire hotel was smoke free and the dining room had a crackling fire each night. Though it was the second day of summer, we had snow two mornings!

Day 7 Hike to Lac Bleu

After a bountiful breakfast, we hiked the path to Lac Bleu and down the valley back to the hotel. The tiny lake wasn’t so spectacular, but the hike was gorgeous and the lake was surrounded by endless wildflowers in the meadows. Parts of the trail had assist chains, though it wasn’t very difficult. What we enjoyed most is that the trail had many up and downhill parts. You never knew what to expect! We later did some shopping at the sports store in the tiny village of Arolla where I bought some new sunglasses and Rick found a jacket on sale. The store has a few medicinal supplies; there’s also a small grocery in town, a souvenir shop and a few hotels.

Day 8 Bummer

Rick woke up with a stomach bug. I did a Gatorade run into town while he rested. Later, I climbed the mountain behind the motel to the Marmut Trail. This is a pretty hike which has stations explaining the habitat of the ubiquitous mountain creatures. I also enjoyed some of the trails behind the hotel which led to the ski lifts down the valley. Gorgeous area.

Day 9 Bettmeralp

We are so sad to leave Arolla, especially since Rick had an off day. While we waited for a bus in Arolla, we had a long conversation with a female hiker who knew the history of the valley. She told us how the first British tourists spent a week traveling with donkeys from Sion to Arolla. She also told us that little has changed there since the Archbishop of Sion gave the land to his friend and his family and they still have control of much of the area. They have fought attempts to commercialize the area and it remains truly pristine. We saw many serious mountaineering groups taking guided tours with equipment.

We took the fun red Matterhorn train from Visp to Brig and to the Bettmeralp station, where we took the cable car UP to the town. WOW! What a gorgeous ride and what a cute village! I thought it might resemble Wengen, but it was not as touristy. It is car free and cows roam freely through the village, which is pretty funny! We checked into the Hotel Bettmerhof where we were greeted warmly and shown to our corner room with amazing views. Bettmeralp has a few hotel shuttles and a shuttle running to the neighboring villages, but you hear no noise or see any pollution. The sweet sound of cowbells and birds fills the air. You will see scores of hikers here of all ages, as it’s a beautiful area to hike! We were worried about rain, so we took the cable car up to the Bettmerhorn where we enjoyed a bird’s eye view of the stunning Aletsch glacier- the longest in Switzerland. After we returned, we walked to Riederalp. I am so glad we didn’t stay here! They are doing major construction in and around the town to accommodate skiers and it’s noisy and dusty and vehicles are all over the roads. DO NOT stay in Riederalp! The hike was beautiful, though. We had a wonderful wood oven pizza in the hotel’s Italian restaurant.

Day 10 Villa Cassel and Nature trail

Chris, the hotel owner/manager is the BEST. He printed a special English breakfast menu for us! He speaks perfect English and is such a gracious host. I would not consider any other hotel in Bettmeralp! After a hearty scrambled egg and yogurt breakfast, we hiked to Riederalp then UP to Villa Cassel. This was once a home to a rich British financier, but now it houses a nature center, tea room and info center for the park. It’s worth a visit. We had a delicious lunch at the only hotel up there
at Riederfurka then hiked across the nature trail past Blausee and Bettmersee back to the hotel. Total time out was 4.5 hours. It was a beautiful forested trail with climbs where we saw Aletsch Gletscher. We had another delicious dinner at the hotel (amuse bouche before each dinner) and took a stroll to the east end of town where we found a large playground and we were playing on the equipment and laughing so hard we were crying. Some alcohol was involved.

Day 11 Bettmeralp Half Marathon

We woke to the news of the deaths of Michael Jackson and Farrah Fawcett. It was all the talk here. They were having a half marathon in 2 days and the trail markers were out, so we decided to do the 13.1 mile trek. It was the quintessential hike of Bettmeralp! The trail started in front of our hotel and headed east through the forest where we enjoyed watching a doe with her newborn. It climbed across meadows with snow under the ski lifts and crossed the valley towards Riederalp and UP to the Villa Cassel. At that point, it snaked around the entire mountaintop where we saw some interesting birds and a strange breed of deer. The trail then climbed the mountain ridge UP and UP to Moosfluh and Bettmerhorn. It never descended back into town! We had been out over 6.5 hours and didn’t want to negotiate snow on the top, so we took the steep downhill trail back to our hotel. Total time was 7.5 hours. Exhaustion factor, don’t ask! We enjoyed the sauna and steam room where we sported bathing suits and everyone else was naked; a great American moment. We both each ate an entire pizza and 2 bottles of wine for dinner!

Day 12 Rick’s Birthday- Bern and Luzern

We hated to leave Bettmeralp and spent the morning playing in town and taking pictures. We met a lovely French couple who convinced us to stop in Bern before heading to Luzern. We stored our luggage in the train station’s lockers and walked the city for 2 hours. It is a lovely, vibrant city and we found a romantic French café in town where we dined on mussels and white wine. Later, we arrived in Luzern for a surprise. I had trouble booking a room and now I get it- they were having the one day “Luzernfest” where they have fireworks, music, etc. It draws 100,000 people. Though it was fun watching people, we barely found a place to eat and then I had to leave because of the thick smoke. We stayed at the very modern Hotel Continental Park which was just steps from the railroad station and close to the river. The staff spoke perfect English and it was a very nice place. I wish we had dined there that night, the menu was enticing. The lady who checked us in told us where to go and how to avoid the crowds that night. Great staff!

Day 13 Luzern, Zurich

We did all the fun touristy parts of Luzern- walking the old wall and up the towers, seeing the Lion Monument (gorgeous) and visiting the churches, which I do in every city and village. I get holy water every day and I’m convinced that’s what keeps us safe and happy! We walked across the bridges, in a and had a romantic lunch under the trees alongside the lake (with many swans swimming around) Later, we caught the train to Zurich where we walked for about three hours exploring the city, walking up the tower at the Grossmunster Church and exploring old town. We had a wonderful farewell fondue at the Hotel Adler’s Chuchi Swiss restaurant. It was a brilliant day, and we sat outside and watched people come and go. This is a fabulous part of Zurich and we loved it! After dinner, we retrieved our luggage at the depot and took the tram back to the Crowne Plaza- a very nice place to stay pre-flight. They had a shuttle to the airport and a large bar and business area.

Day 14- Home

. We actually got an “American” breakfast in the Center Café at the airport. Zurich’s airport is superb; so organized, nice shops, easy access.

Switzerland remains my favorite vacation spot after 4 trips. Nowhere will you find easier transportation. It’s a safe, clean country and you will pay for that. It’s a very expensive country, but if you stay in the quiet villages instead of the resort towns such as Zermatt, you’ll have a more authentic experience and save money. We talked to many Swiss about the smoking problem. The older Swiss have strong muscles and hike regularly. The younger Swiss are becoming more sedentary and are smoking at a high rate. I suspect that if they don’t stop this, it will have a terrible impact on their health system. For people seeking a true vision of Switzerland, explore some quiet valleys and remote spots. This is a country of beautiful, clean cities, breathtaking mountain scenery, aqua lakes and quaint villages. The public transportation system is reliable and easy and there’s no reason to rent a car!
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Old Jul 7th, 2009, 08:27 PM
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Thank you, LLindaC! This is a delightful report to read, and really whets my desire to get back there.

Thanks!

s
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Old Jul 7th, 2009, 09:23 PM
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Thanks, swandav, my ever helpful friend!
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Old Jul 7th, 2009, 09:27 PM
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Nice report.

Do many people still hike in the buff?
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Old Jul 7th, 2009, 09:39 PM
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Dutch, take a prozac and get an ice pack! ;-)

I did not see anyone hiking in the buff, but I understand it's happening everywhere. We actually experienced one of the coldest months they've had is S'Land. In altitude, it was high 40's to mid 60's. Cities were about 70. Perfect for menopausal women, I wore short sleeves while all the Swiss were in fleece sweatshirts, lol! Luv ya Dutch!
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Old Jul 7th, 2009, 09:48 PM
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Beautiful pictures! Thank you for taking the time to write a trip report and sharing your lovely pictures.

How was the temperature? Was it hot/cold? Just curious.

Thanks again.
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Old Jul 7th, 2009, 09:59 PM
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cafegoddess, Our first trip together in 2005 was HOT. Lugano and Montreux were about 93. It was cooler in Wengen...maybe 75. This trip was very cool, yet I looked at weather.com before leaving. We actually had no rain on our hiking days, just 2 nights of it. The Valais is famous for being the sunniest part of S'Land. I love cool weather and the intensity of our hikes made it unneccesary to wear a jacket. The last 2 weeks of June are a GREAT time to visit, as the European children are still in school and tourism is light. However, you must be aware that not all places are open for business!
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Old Jul 7th, 2009, 10:55 PM
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Great report LLinda - you've piqued my interest in Bettmeralp. Will have to add that to my ever growing Swiss Wish List for trip number #9.
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Old Jul 8th, 2009, 02:52 AM
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Welcome back LLinda and thank you for the beautifully written report and pictures. Particular attention was paid to your stay/pics in Luzern, since I will be spending 2 days there on my upcoming trip. Loved the view from Weg. Those masks are scary enough to keep anything away.

Thank you for sharing.

jdc
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Old Jul 8th, 2009, 03:42 AM
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Hello LLindaC

Terrific report! You two are quite the hikers. Very impressive. Do you take poles with you?

I agree about the lack of non-smoking restaurants. We are finding it increasingly difficult to eat while someone is smoking next to us, have had to leave a few times. Interesting comment about the younger crowd smoking and becoming more sedentary.

Whatever happened with the special birthday dinners you were planning?

So now onto your pictures. Always a treat!
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Old Jul 8th, 2009, 04:03 AM
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Hi hiker! We didn't take poles, but I do own some. My birthday dinner was on our first day and I was so jet lagged I was a zombie! Rick's "special dinner" was to be in Luzern, but with the festival going on restaurants were booked or serving very limited menus. We found a nice place, but I had to leave mid entree because there was a table of 6 chain smokers who wrecked the night. It's okay though, we had some wonderful meals and romantic mountain lunches. One thing about hiking 4-7 hours per day, you can EAT, DRINK and still lose weight! I dropped from an 8 to a 6.
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Old Jul 8th, 2009, 04:21 AM
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Oh, Linda, the photos are so beautiful! Thank you for posting them. Gave me a breath of cool, fresh air this morning.

Loved how you added some video!

Now, about that "mask" picture of you.... Brave woman you are, to post that one, lol!
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Old Jul 8th, 2009, 04:34 AM
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I once won a high school contest for making the worst face. Pure talent.
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Old Jul 8th, 2009, 11:24 AM
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You don't look bad for 54.

Your husband has nice legs.

You should have worn your Blackglama to the glacier for a fabulous photo op.

Your trip looked interesting, but too rustic for me. I would have been wandering around Blatten looking for Chopard or Wempe.

Thin
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Old Jul 8th, 2009, 12:14 PM
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Thin, I did see uber swans at Zurich and Luzern. I thought about you!
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Old Jul 9th, 2009, 05:51 AM
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Nice report and pictures - this really makes me want to plan a trip to Switzerland! Thanks for sharing.
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Old Jul 10th, 2009, 06:23 AM
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Your report just amplifies my own reasons for thinking of Switzerland as my #1 country in Europe. Thanks for sharing your lovely report. Hoping to get back to Lucern/Zurich and Lausanne in December!
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Old Jul 10th, 2009, 06:34 AM
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LLindaC, what kind/type of shoes did you use for hiking? I'm in the process of trying to find a good pair that are comfortable, supportive and that will keep my feet warm for hiking in Switzerland.

Thanks,
jdc
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Old Jul 10th, 2009, 11:23 AM
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I have had several pairs and finally am happy with North Face. They are gore-tex and waterproof. A real must for all the stream and snow crossings. I used Power Steps Pro orthotics in them. They were GREAT! I never do that much hiking without a good pair of orthotics!
http://www.powersteps.com/_medical/products.asp?page=3

The North Face shoes run somewhat small. I got them a little large for the orthotics. You also want to be careful that your toe doesn't hit the shoe when you descend. After a while, you can get black toenail!
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Old Jul 10th, 2009, 03:32 PM
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Thanks Linda.

jdc
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