Keith's UK Trip report
Apr 12th, 2004, 03:54 PM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,611
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Keith's UK Trip report
Part One of my recent trip to London and Blackpool. The same text with photos from my trip is available at http://www.mightymac.org/04uk01.htm
The flights to Chicago and London Heathrow were pleasant and uneventful. I like American Airlines' 777s for Transatlantic flights.
--------------------------------
Day 1 Friday April 1
There was a brief hold in the air at London and customs was slow, so I didn't arrive at the Park International Hotel until 11:30AM. But the good news was that I was able to check right into my room to take a much needed shower and change. This visit, I wasn't upgraded to a double, so my room was tiny - perhaps 6 feet wide.
But I am not complaining! The room was inexpensive £41.13/night including tax and has plenty of features: AC, ensuite (that means it has its own bathroom), refrigerator, hairdryer, color TV, coffee pot, trouser press, telephone and safe. The shower is only about 27" square, but at least it has glass walls. Several of the showers, in other European hotels I have used, were exposed and had only a flimsy curtain.
After freshening up, I visited the nearby Sainsbury's (supermarket) to get cash at the ATM and load up on exotic (to me) junk food and drinks. I left the food in my room and it was time to explore.
My afternoon was supposed to start with a tour of the Royal Mews, but somehow my research missed the part where the Mews is closed on Fridays for most of the year.
Oh well! On to Buckingham Palace for some photos and a walk through St. James' Park. It was beautiful (this would turn out to be the nicest weather of the trip): mid 50s, sunny and many plants blooming. Every few feet was a photo opportunity. Twice I was drafted to photograph others.
From the east end of St. James Park I walked over to Westminster Abbey. Last trip I attended a service there, but this time I wanted to explore the building. Both of the remaining Verger led tours were fully booked, so I was on my own. It wasn't a disaster, as I have read a lot about the Abbey and seen a series of videos. I may have been over prepared, the Abbey with its many tombs and history was very slightly anticlimactic.
Next I went next door to the Jewel Tour. One of the two buildings in Westminster to survive the fire, it was built in 1336 as a treasure house. Today it houses a history of Parliament which I didn't find that interesting, but I did enjoy the display of old (formerly official) weights and measures.
Then north a couple of blocks to Churchill's secret Cabinet War Rooms. Hidden beneath one of the few steel framed buildings in London, they housed the main war offices during WW2. Some rooms were left exactly as they were on VJ day. Others have received careful restoration using photos from the 40s. Free audio guides provide individual tours. It is well worth and hour's visit.
After stopping back at the hotel to refresh and check email, I returned to Victoria Station and walked to the nearby Jenny Lo's Teahouse, which had many online recommendations. I arrived a few minutes before 6 PM, when Jenny Lo's opens, and there were three parties already waiting at the street. The tiny restaurant has four long tables. A family shared the other end of my table.
Dinner was a side of crispy squid (battered & fried with tiny slices of hot peppers), chili beef soup (spicy marinated beef with Chinese mushrooms, been sprouts, soft flat noodles & spicy Vietnamese dressing) and green tea. I would try Jenny Lo's again, but would try a different main dish. I'm just not that big a soup eater.
From Jenny Lo's it was a few blocks to the other side of Victoria Station to the Apollo Victoria Theatre where Bombay Dreams is finishing its two year run. My ticket was waiting. I purchased it online for 1/2 price through lastminute.com. Front row center of the Dress Circle (first balcony), with no one sitting on either side of me.
The story line about a boy from the Bombay ghetto breaking into the Bollywood film industry didn't do that much for me, but the set, costumes and music were good. I particularly liked the two drummers who flanked the stage. My favorite characters were Madan, the movie producer, and Sweetie, the eunuch transsexual.
--------------------------------
Day 2 Saturday April 3
This is a good point to talk about getting around London. There are many taxis and busses, but for this trip I used the Tube exclusively.
My hotel was only about 2 blocks from Gloucester Road Station, which is served by 3 tube lines: the District & Circle Lines which are down one escalator level and the Piccadilly Line which is much deeper and served at various stations by elevators or very long escalators. The District & Circle Lines share tracks for this part of the route and among other places, provide access to Victoria, old Westminster and many of "The City" stations just north of the Thames River.
On my first trip to London, I would estimate which station was closest to where I wanted to go, then plot a route with changes to get to that station. This time I would usually find the closest station to my destination that was on one of the direct routes and walk from there. It was generally fast and painless.
On Saturday I had no set plans until the evening. In the morning, I went down to Leicester Square, arriving a few minutes before the TKTS half price ticket booth opened at 10AM. The TKTS booth sells tickets for that day's shows only, and does not have all shows. Evening and matinee shows have separate lines and it took about 20 minutes to get through the shorter line for a matinee ticket.
I spent the rest of the morning wandering through the nearby China Town and visiting some of the bookstores along Charing Cross Road. The weather was very changeable (it stayed that way most of the trip. It started to warm up enough that I change to a lighter jacket, but a few minutes latter a cold wind came up and I changed back. When it rained, the wind was so strong that I didn't use my umbrella.
After a forgettable lunch of fish & chips at a pub, I visited the newly opened, expanded Forbidden Planet, a major science fiction and cult specialty store. That afternoon, David Gemmell was having a signing session. He seemed to be a hit (I Haven't read his work), the line snaked through much of the lower floor of the store. Not wanting to spend an hour in line, I settled for taking a couple of photos.
Then on to the Comedy Theatre for the matinee of Journey's End. The Comedy Theatre is an intimate venue. My seat was in the 3rd row of the packed theatre. Journey's End is a drama which follows 5 British officers for one week in the trenches during World War One. This isn't light fare, but I recommend it.
Following the show, I had a reservation for early dinner at Livebait's Café Fish. This was my only "big" meal of the trip. I can't see spending 2 hours plus on a fancy meal by myself.
For super I had the Plateau de fruits de Mer, something I have had on each trip to England or France. Rock oysters, Dorset crab, whelks, cockles, winkles, Atlantic prawns, mussels & Madagascan crevettes. This time, I finally learned how to get the meat out of the winkles, though there is so little that I don't think it worth the effort. The first whelk was fairly good, but the second one was a bit gritty and that turned me off the rest. The Crevettes (large prawns) were very good, but the highlight was the Dorset crab. It had a sweet taste that I really liked and have never had before, but want to have again.
Following an hour of bliss, my evening show was just a few feet away at the Gielgud Theatre: All's Well That End's Well with the Royal Shakespeare Company and Judi Dench (I love her in the TV show As Time Goes By). I booked this show months in advance and had the best seat in the house: 4th row center on the aisle. I loved it. In addition to Dame Judi, I particularly liked Claudie Blakely as Helena.
Following the show, it was a 3 or 4 minute walk in a drizzle to Piccadilly Circus and the subway back to the hotel.
Keith
The flights to Chicago and London Heathrow were pleasant and uneventful. I like American Airlines' 777s for Transatlantic flights.
--------------------------------
Day 1 Friday April 1
There was a brief hold in the air at London and customs was slow, so I didn't arrive at the Park International Hotel until 11:30AM. But the good news was that I was able to check right into my room to take a much needed shower and change. This visit, I wasn't upgraded to a double, so my room was tiny - perhaps 6 feet wide.
But I am not complaining! The room was inexpensive £41.13/night including tax and has plenty of features: AC, ensuite (that means it has its own bathroom), refrigerator, hairdryer, color TV, coffee pot, trouser press, telephone and safe. The shower is only about 27" square, but at least it has glass walls. Several of the showers, in other European hotels I have used, were exposed and had only a flimsy curtain.
After freshening up, I visited the nearby Sainsbury's (supermarket) to get cash at the ATM and load up on exotic (to me) junk food and drinks. I left the food in my room and it was time to explore.
My afternoon was supposed to start with a tour of the Royal Mews, but somehow my research missed the part where the Mews is closed on Fridays for most of the year.
Oh well! On to Buckingham Palace for some photos and a walk through St. James' Park. It was beautiful (this would turn out to be the nicest weather of the trip): mid 50s, sunny and many plants blooming. Every few feet was a photo opportunity. Twice I was drafted to photograph others.
From the east end of St. James Park I walked over to Westminster Abbey. Last trip I attended a service there, but this time I wanted to explore the building. Both of the remaining Verger led tours were fully booked, so I was on my own. It wasn't a disaster, as I have read a lot about the Abbey and seen a series of videos. I may have been over prepared, the Abbey with its many tombs and history was very slightly anticlimactic.
Next I went next door to the Jewel Tour. One of the two buildings in Westminster to survive the fire, it was built in 1336 as a treasure house. Today it houses a history of Parliament which I didn't find that interesting, but I did enjoy the display of old (formerly official) weights and measures.
Then north a couple of blocks to Churchill's secret Cabinet War Rooms. Hidden beneath one of the few steel framed buildings in London, they housed the main war offices during WW2. Some rooms were left exactly as they were on VJ day. Others have received careful restoration using photos from the 40s. Free audio guides provide individual tours. It is well worth and hour's visit.
After stopping back at the hotel to refresh and check email, I returned to Victoria Station and walked to the nearby Jenny Lo's Teahouse, which had many online recommendations. I arrived a few minutes before 6 PM, when Jenny Lo's opens, and there were three parties already waiting at the street. The tiny restaurant has four long tables. A family shared the other end of my table.
Dinner was a side of crispy squid (battered & fried with tiny slices of hot peppers), chili beef soup (spicy marinated beef with Chinese mushrooms, been sprouts, soft flat noodles & spicy Vietnamese dressing) and green tea. I would try Jenny Lo's again, but would try a different main dish. I'm just not that big a soup eater.
From Jenny Lo's it was a few blocks to the other side of Victoria Station to the Apollo Victoria Theatre where Bombay Dreams is finishing its two year run. My ticket was waiting. I purchased it online for 1/2 price through lastminute.com. Front row center of the Dress Circle (first balcony), with no one sitting on either side of me.
The story line about a boy from the Bombay ghetto breaking into the Bollywood film industry didn't do that much for me, but the set, costumes and music were good. I particularly liked the two drummers who flanked the stage. My favorite characters were Madan, the movie producer, and Sweetie, the eunuch transsexual.
--------------------------------
Day 2 Saturday April 3
This is a good point to talk about getting around London. There are many taxis and busses, but for this trip I used the Tube exclusively.
My hotel was only about 2 blocks from Gloucester Road Station, which is served by 3 tube lines: the District & Circle Lines which are down one escalator level and the Piccadilly Line which is much deeper and served at various stations by elevators or very long escalators. The District & Circle Lines share tracks for this part of the route and among other places, provide access to Victoria, old Westminster and many of "The City" stations just north of the Thames River.
On my first trip to London, I would estimate which station was closest to where I wanted to go, then plot a route with changes to get to that station. This time I would usually find the closest station to my destination that was on one of the direct routes and walk from there. It was generally fast and painless.
On Saturday I had no set plans until the evening. In the morning, I went down to Leicester Square, arriving a few minutes before the TKTS half price ticket booth opened at 10AM. The TKTS booth sells tickets for that day's shows only, and does not have all shows. Evening and matinee shows have separate lines and it took about 20 minutes to get through the shorter line for a matinee ticket.
I spent the rest of the morning wandering through the nearby China Town and visiting some of the bookstores along Charing Cross Road. The weather was very changeable (it stayed that way most of the trip. It started to warm up enough that I change to a lighter jacket, but a few minutes latter a cold wind came up and I changed back. When it rained, the wind was so strong that I didn't use my umbrella.
After a forgettable lunch of fish & chips at a pub, I visited the newly opened, expanded Forbidden Planet, a major science fiction and cult specialty store. That afternoon, David Gemmell was having a signing session. He seemed to be a hit (I Haven't read his work), the line snaked through much of the lower floor of the store. Not wanting to spend an hour in line, I settled for taking a couple of photos.
Then on to the Comedy Theatre for the matinee of Journey's End. The Comedy Theatre is an intimate venue. My seat was in the 3rd row of the packed theatre. Journey's End is a drama which follows 5 British officers for one week in the trenches during World War One. This isn't light fare, but I recommend it.
Following the show, I had a reservation for early dinner at Livebait's Café Fish. This was my only "big" meal of the trip. I can't see spending 2 hours plus on a fancy meal by myself.
For super I had the Plateau de fruits de Mer, something I have had on each trip to England or France. Rock oysters, Dorset crab, whelks, cockles, winkles, Atlantic prawns, mussels & Madagascan crevettes. This time, I finally learned how to get the meat out of the winkles, though there is so little that I don't think it worth the effort. The first whelk was fairly good, but the second one was a bit gritty and that turned me off the rest. The Crevettes (large prawns) were very good, but the highlight was the Dorset crab. It had a sweet taste that I really liked and have never had before, but want to have again.
Following an hour of bliss, my evening show was just a few feet away at the Gielgud Theatre: All's Well That End's Well with the Royal Shakespeare Company and Judi Dench (I love her in the TV show As Time Goes By). I booked this show months in advance and had the best seat in the house: 4th row center on the aisle. I loved it. In addition to Dame Judi, I particularly liked Claudie Blakely as Helena.
Following the show, it was a 3 or 4 minute walk in a drizzle to Piccadilly Circus and the subway back to the hotel.
Keith
Apr 13th, 2004, 03:18 AM
#6
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Loving your report! It's very easy to read and extremely useful as I'm going to tour London/UK next month solo.
PS: I love Judi in "As Time Goes By" as well!! In fact, it's my all-time favourite Brit comedy. Didn't know they showed it in the States but they certainly do in Oz
PPS: Do you know anything about the BritRail/GNER at all? I'm a bit confused. I'm going to Middlesbrough and wanting to travel to Edinburgh and Manchester on weekends plus unscheduled trips during my free weekends to whatever city catches my fancy (I'm on a clinical rotation there). I'm not really into ultra-planning my trip as I see the Fodorites do (I'm pretty busy at the moment with Exams) so I was wondering if the Young Person's Rail Pass is the best way to go? Thank you in advance!
PS: I love Judi in "As Time Goes By" as well!! In fact, it's my all-time favourite Brit comedy. Didn't know they showed it in the States but they certainly do in Oz
PPS: Do you know anything about the BritRail/GNER at all? I'm a bit confused. I'm going to Middlesbrough and wanting to travel to Edinburgh and Manchester on weekends plus unscheduled trips during my free weekends to whatever city catches my fancy (I'm on a clinical rotation there). I'm not really into ultra-planning my trip as I see the Fodorites do (I'm pretty busy at the moment with Exams) so I was wondering if the Young Person's Rail Pass is the best way to go? Thank you in advance!
Apr 13th, 2004, 05:13 AM
#7
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,675
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Celine, regarding your train questions. Ignore BritRail; it is a travel agency that markets rail passes for tourists on behalf of Britain's 26 different train operating companies. GNER is one of those 26 companies. To get from Middlesbrough to Edinburgh, for example, you would likely travel Arriva Trains Northern to Darlington and GNER from there to Edinburgh. But the names of the train companies are largely irrelevant; you would buy a ticket to your destination that would be usable on whatever trains go there.
Yes, you can definitely get good value out of Young Person's Rail Card. I get good value on a Senior's Card on just one visit. And even though you do not like to plan in advance, even buying a day or two in advance can save you money.
Yes, you can definitely get good value out of Young Person's Rail Card. I get good value on a Senior's Card on just one visit. And even though you do not like to plan in advance, even buying a day or two in advance can save you money.
Apr 13th, 2004, 05:14 AM
#8
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,611
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
pilgrim, I got that rate on the Park International's web site, booking it about 5 months in advance.
celine13, our "Public television" which is supported by the government and private donations shows many shows from the UK without commerical interuption. Sorry, I don't know about BritRail/GNER but I bet asking that question in a new post with "BritRail/GNER" as the subject will get you some answers.
Here is the next day of the trip. The same text with photos continues at http://www.mightymac.org/04uk04.htm
Day 3 Sunday April 4
I was up fairly early to catch up on email in the hotel lobby, then headed to Trafalgar Square. The choir from St. Martin in The Fields was processing to the Admiralty Arch where they joined about 100 people, a Salvation Army band and Larry the Donkey. Following a prayer & a hymn, we processed to the center of Trafalgar Square for another hymn & a scripture reading. Then on past the National Portrait Gallery closer to the church to sing one more hymn and recite the Lord's Prayer, and on to the church, gathering more people along the way.
The 10AM service was already in progress and we waited for a break to enter the church singing "All Glory, Laud and Honor." Then they held the balance of the service, which consisted primarily of the Eucharist and a reading of the Passion according to Luke by several congregation members.
After the service, I returned to Trafalgar Square to do some photography, then returned to the hotel to change and head out to Gabriel's Wharf for London Bicycle Tours. This was LBTs first weekend of the season and there almost wasn't a tour, but 2 other riders called that they were running late but would be there soon. The manager, Peter, decided that 3 was enough to do the tour.
Just then, the worst downpour of my trip came down, but it let up as we started out and it only sprinkled a couple of times during the balance of the tour. At other times, the sun came out. The other two riders were Maron (spelling?), a contractor from the Netherlands and his son. The boy had an Indian name which Peter couldn't pronounce and I didn't catch, so he was dubbed "Fred" for the tour.
The tour started out east along the south bank of the river with stops at London Bridge, the reconstructed Globe Theatre, the site of the original Globe, and the Clink (which was the jail of the Bishops of Winchester from 1107-1626).
Then we rode over the Tower Bridge to St. Katherine's Dock for a stop at Dickens? Inn, a pub in an 18th century brewery building that was moved to this site 25 years ago. Maron saw me order cider and brought one out to his son (not realizing it contained alcohol). After one sip the boy had to switch to Coke. We sat out in the sun and talked politics for about a half hour.
Then we rode along some canals and on into the East End, stopping at a small church yard and a little known large outdoor mural devoted to the 1936 Cable Street Riots. This area has seen generations of different immigrants for centuries. Currently there is a large community from Bangladesh.
We then stopped at Spitalfields Market and had a few minutes to explore on our own. My only purchase was a bottle of hot pepper sauce. Peter looked at it and sniffed that it was made in London and was not imported. I pointed out that it would be imported for me and Maron laughed. The balance of the tour included stops at Leadenhall Market, Aldegate, Royal Exchange, Mansion House, Guild Hall, and the Monument to the Great Fire of London, before crossing back over the river on London Bridge.
A fun 3 hours and 9 miles for only 15 pounds. Peter told me that the tour averages 12.5 people. If they run more than about 15 people, they bring along a trailing guide or break the tour into two groups. They offer different tours on Saturday & Sunday, with additional group tours during the week by arrangement
Following the ride I returned to the hotel, snacking on a cold Cornish pasty, to change and rest for an hour. Then back across town on the Circle Line to Monument Station. After a quick dinner at a nearby McDonald's (the biggest difference from the US is they give a discount for food to go) I returned to Monument Station to join the Haunted London tour with London Walks.
The guide never gave his name, but he did a pretty good job with the group of 70 or so folks. The tour got off to an awkward start when first a street person and then a smart aleck 20 something accosted the group.
This is a good walk, but you need to be in fairly good shape. The guide leads at a fast pace (I think he may have been afraid of a return of the hecklers) and starts with a climb many steps.
One of the interesting parts of this tour was visiting some of the same sites as the bicycle tour earlier in the day and hearing different things about the same sites.
Keith
celine13, our "Public television" which is supported by the government and private donations shows many shows from the UK without commerical interuption. Sorry, I don't know about BritRail/GNER but I bet asking that question in a new post with "BritRail/GNER" as the subject will get you some answers.
Here is the next day of the trip. The same text with photos continues at http://www.mightymac.org/04uk04.htm
Day 3 Sunday April 4
I was up fairly early to catch up on email in the hotel lobby, then headed to Trafalgar Square. The choir from St. Martin in The Fields was processing to the Admiralty Arch where they joined about 100 people, a Salvation Army band and Larry the Donkey. Following a prayer & a hymn, we processed to the center of Trafalgar Square for another hymn & a scripture reading. Then on past the National Portrait Gallery closer to the church to sing one more hymn and recite the Lord's Prayer, and on to the church, gathering more people along the way.
The 10AM service was already in progress and we waited for a break to enter the church singing "All Glory, Laud and Honor." Then they held the balance of the service, which consisted primarily of the Eucharist and a reading of the Passion according to Luke by several congregation members.
After the service, I returned to Trafalgar Square to do some photography, then returned to the hotel to change and head out to Gabriel's Wharf for London Bicycle Tours. This was LBTs first weekend of the season and there almost wasn't a tour, but 2 other riders called that they were running late but would be there soon. The manager, Peter, decided that 3 was enough to do the tour.
Just then, the worst downpour of my trip came down, but it let up as we started out and it only sprinkled a couple of times during the balance of the tour. At other times, the sun came out. The other two riders were Maron (spelling?), a contractor from the Netherlands and his son. The boy had an Indian name which Peter couldn't pronounce and I didn't catch, so he was dubbed "Fred" for the tour.
The tour started out east along the south bank of the river with stops at London Bridge, the reconstructed Globe Theatre, the site of the original Globe, and the Clink (which was the jail of the Bishops of Winchester from 1107-1626).
Then we rode over the Tower Bridge to St. Katherine's Dock for a stop at Dickens? Inn, a pub in an 18th century brewery building that was moved to this site 25 years ago. Maron saw me order cider and brought one out to his son (not realizing it contained alcohol). After one sip the boy had to switch to Coke. We sat out in the sun and talked politics for about a half hour.
Then we rode along some canals and on into the East End, stopping at a small church yard and a little known large outdoor mural devoted to the 1936 Cable Street Riots. This area has seen generations of different immigrants for centuries. Currently there is a large community from Bangladesh.
We then stopped at Spitalfields Market and had a few minutes to explore on our own. My only purchase was a bottle of hot pepper sauce. Peter looked at it and sniffed that it was made in London and was not imported. I pointed out that it would be imported for me and Maron laughed. The balance of the tour included stops at Leadenhall Market, Aldegate, Royal Exchange, Mansion House, Guild Hall, and the Monument to the Great Fire of London, before crossing back over the river on London Bridge.
A fun 3 hours and 9 miles for only 15 pounds. Peter told me that the tour averages 12.5 people. If they run more than about 15 people, they bring along a trailing guide or break the tour into two groups. They offer different tours on Saturday & Sunday, with additional group tours during the week by arrangement
Following the ride I returned to the hotel, snacking on a cold Cornish pasty, to change and rest for an hour. Then back across town on the Circle Line to Monument Station. After a quick dinner at a nearby McDonald's (the biggest difference from the US is they give a discount for food to go) I returned to Monument Station to join the Haunted London tour with London Walks.
The guide never gave his name, but he did a pretty good job with the group of 70 or so folks. The tour got off to an awkward start when first a street person and then a smart aleck 20 something accosted the group.
This is a good walk, but you need to be in fairly good shape. The guide leads at a fast pace (I think he may have been afraid of a return of the hecklers) and starts with a climb many steps.
One of the interesting parts of this tour was visiting some of the same sites as the bicycle tour earlier in the day and hearing different things about the same sites.
Keith
Apr 13th, 2004, 07:30 AM
#9
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Keith:
There was recently a post entitled something to the effect of "are you as excited as I am to go to Italy?" Your trip report is wonderful and could be retitled somthing similiar for those of us still waiting for the day we leave! My DH and I are getting so excited and your information and pictures...great pics btw!!, were greatly enjoyed and appreciated. It is so fun to see a person's trip report after you have been reading their questions for their trip for so long. I can't wait to get the West End, we're seeing Blood Brother's so far and Camalot at the Open Air Theater in Regent's Park. Thanks for your info...glad you had an awesome time!
Julie
There was recently a post entitled something to the effect of "are you as excited as I am to go to Italy?" Your trip report is wonderful and could be retitled somthing similiar for those of us still waiting for the day we leave! My DH and I are getting so excited and your information and pictures...great pics btw!!, were greatly enjoyed and appreciated. It is so fun to see a person's trip report after you have been reading their questions for their trip for so long. I can't wait to get the West End, we're seeing Blood Brother's so far and Camalot at the Open Air Theater in Regent's Park. Thanks for your info...glad you had an awesome time!
Julie
Apr 13th, 2004, 10:58 AM
#12
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Keith - Great report! There seems to be a glitch on your website (or with my computer) - I couldn't get past the first part of the Sunday's report. Hopefully it will get fixed - I'd love to see the rest of your pictures.
Apr 14th, 2004, 09:36 AM
#14
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,611
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This day's trip will not mean much if you are unfamiliar with Clive Staples Lewis. A fellow of Magdalen (pronounced Maudlin) College and later a Chair at Cambridge, he was a friend of J. R. R. Tolkien (author of the Lord of the Rings). A reluctant convert to Christianity, Lewis became a very popular Christian essayist, writing still popular works such as "Surprised by Joy," "The Four Loves" and "The Screwtape Letters." He also broadcast his essays on the BBC. His fictional writing included both science fiction and fantasy, of which he is best known for his allegorical children's series, the Chronicles of Narnia, which begins with "The Lion, The Witch and The Wardrobe." Lewis' relationship with the American writer, Joy Davidman, was dramatized in the play and movie "Shadowlands."
Agins, the same text with photos is at http://www.mightymac.org/04uk06.htm
Day 4 Monday April 5
Getting up a little earlier, I checked email before heading out and taking the Circle Line to Paddington Station. After buying a ticket from a self service machine in the station, I took a train to Oxford, about an hour's ride.
From the station in Oxford, I walked to the downtown and did a bit of shopping (got some great, funny greeting cards!) before meeting Ron Brill in front of the Randolph Hotel. The Randolph is the where Jack (C. S. Lewis) first met Helen Joy Davidman.
Ron Brill grew up in Oxfordshire and played with Jack's stepson Douglas Gresham for several years. Ron has had several careers. 5 years ago he was a taxi driver and one day picked up a couple from the US that asked if he knew anything about C. S. Lewis - thus C. S. Lewis Tours were born. Ron has a crusade to see Jack become better known & recognized in his own hometown.
Ron says that the people that come to take the Lewis tours are mostly Americans that know much more about Jack than the people of Oxford. Ron conducted a poll in which he asked local people who C. S. Lewis was. 70% said that he wrote "Alice In Wonderland" (which was written by another Oxford resident under the pen name Lewis Carroll).
The tour includes driving past Magdalen College (where Jack taught), Magdalen Bridge (site of the famous May day celebrations), a stop at JRR Tolkien & Joy Davidman's homes, a drive past the hospital where Joy and Jack were married, and a couple of the pubs that Jack and his brother Warnie enjoyed and where young Dougie & Ron Brill would go to get beer for Jack.
For me, the highlight was a stop at Holy Trinity Church in Headington Quarry. Ron has a key to the church and I photographed Jack & Warnie's pew and the wonderful engraved Narnia window next to it. Then we visited Jack & Warnie's graves and the grave of Mrs. Janie King Moore, who's relationship with Jack leaves so many unanswered questions. At Ron gave me some ivy leaves from the tree above Jack's grave.
The balance of the tour included a long stop at Jack & Warnie's home, The Kilns and a walk through the woods to the small pound near it. Visitors are not permitted to enter the home, which is owned by a foundation which Ron disdains. The last stops are the crematorium where Joy's ashes were scattered, the hospital where Joy died and finally being left at the Eagle and Child pub. The "Bird & Babe" where the Inklings (including Jack, Warnie, JRR Tolkien, Charles Williams and Hugo Dyson) met.
I had cider and an excellent steak pie in the "Rabbit Room" in the Eagle and Child where the Inklings met in the '30s & '40s. The walls have many photos of Lewis & Tolkien.
After lunch I walked through parts of the town I hadn't yet seen. I sneaked looks into the courtyards at a couple of the colleges. Oxford houses 45 colleges and their most interesting features are on their interiors, not the rather plain exteriors. I stopped in and had a "half" of cider the White Horse, the tiny pub that the Inspector Morse TV series made famous.
Walking back to the train station, I was caught in a pretty heavy rain, but just put up my umbrella and trudged along.
Back in London, there was time to return to the hotel and change before heading to the Church of St. Martin-in-the-Fields for a candlelight Baroque concert by The Belmont Ensemble of London. My ticket turned out to be better than I paid for, which I appreciated since although the acoustics are good, there are poor site lines.
And I wanted to see. It turned out that 12 of the 13 musicians in the ensemble and all but 1 of the soloists were young, attractive women.
The Baritone, James Lawrence, and oboe soloist, Angela Miles were particularly good and the violin soloist, Helena Wood, was spectacular to both hear and watch.
On the way back from the concert, I stopped at The Delhi Brasserie, just over the street from my hotel, for a late supper. Really an excellent meal, particularly the lamb.
Keith
Agins, the same text with photos is at http://www.mightymac.org/04uk06.htm
Day 4 Monday April 5
Getting up a little earlier, I checked email before heading out and taking the Circle Line to Paddington Station. After buying a ticket from a self service machine in the station, I took a train to Oxford, about an hour's ride.
From the station in Oxford, I walked to the downtown and did a bit of shopping (got some great, funny greeting cards!) before meeting Ron Brill in front of the Randolph Hotel. The Randolph is the where Jack (C. S. Lewis) first met Helen Joy Davidman.
Ron Brill grew up in Oxfordshire and played with Jack's stepson Douglas Gresham for several years. Ron has had several careers. 5 years ago he was a taxi driver and one day picked up a couple from the US that asked if he knew anything about C. S. Lewis - thus C. S. Lewis Tours were born. Ron has a crusade to see Jack become better known & recognized in his own hometown.
Ron says that the people that come to take the Lewis tours are mostly Americans that know much more about Jack than the people of Oxford. Ron conducted a poll in which he asked local people who C. S. Lewis was. 70% said that he wrote "Alice In Wonderland" (which was written by another Oxford resident under the pen name Lewis Carroll).
The tour includes driving past Magdalen College (where Jack taught), Magdalen Bridge (site of the famous May day celebrations), a stop at JRR Tolkien & Joy Davidman's homes, a drive past the hospital where Joy and Jack were married, and a couple of the pubs that Jack and his brother Warnie enjoyed and where young Dougie & Ron Brill would go to get beer for Jack.
For me, the highlight was a stop at Holy Trinity Church in Headington Quarry. Ron has a key to the church and I photographed Jack & Warnie's pew and the wonderful engraved Narnia window next to it. Then we visited Jack & Warnie's graves and the grave of Mrs. Janie King Moore, who's relationship with Jack leaves so many unanswered questions. At Ron gave me some ivy leaves from the tree above Jack's grave.
The balance of the tour included a long stop at Jack & Warnie's home, The Kilns and a walk through the woods to the small pound near it. Visitors are not permitted to enter the home, which is owned by a foundation which Ron disdains. The last stops are the crematorium where Joy's ashes were scattered, the hospital where Joy died and finally being left at the Eagle and Child pub. The "Bird & Babe" where the Inklings (including Jack, Warnie, JRR Tolkien, Charles Williams and Hugo Dyson) met.
I had cider and an excellent steak pie in the "Rabbit Room" in the Eagle and Child where the Inklings met in the '30s & '40s. The walls have many photos of Lewis & Tolkien.
After lunch I walked through parts of the town I hadn't yet seen. I sneaked looks into the courtyards at a couple of the colleges. Oxford houses 45 colleges and their most interesting features are on their interiors, not the rather plain exteriors. I stopped in and had a "half" of cider the White Horse, the tiny pub that the Inspector Morse TV series made famous.
Walking back to the train station, I was caught in a pretty heavy rain, but just put up my umbrella and trudged along.
Back in London, there was time to return to the hotel and change before heading to the Church of St. Martin-in-the-Fields for a candlelight Baroque concert by The Belmont Ensemble of London. My ticket turned out to be better than I paid for, which I appreciated since although the acoustics are good, there are poor site lines.
And I wanted to see. It turned out that 12 of the 13 musicians in the ensemble and all but 1 of the soloists were young, attractive women.
The Baritone, James Lawrence, and oboe soloist, Angela Miles were particularly good and the violin soloist, Helena Wood, was spectacular to both hear and watch.
On the way back from the concert, I stopped at The Delhi Brasserie, just over the street from my hotel, for a late supper. Really an excellent meal, particularly the lamb.
Keith
Apr 14th, 2004, 11:34 AM
#16
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm Green!!! This sounds like it was an wonderful tour. My DH and I are fans of both Tolkein and C.S. Lewis (particularly Chronicals of Narnia and the Screwtape Letters on my part.) We had been wavering on whether or not to travel to Oxford, and will have to check out the tour...sounds like it could make for a wonderfully interesting day. Again, Thanks for sharing!
Julie
Julie
Apr 14th, 2004, 02:38 PM
#17
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,873
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OK - I take back that "McDonald's" dig. Now you get a 10 out of 10. I'm a big CS Lewis fan and I lived just outside of Oxford for several years. Talk of the Eagle and Child, Randolph hotel, Trinity Church, Headington, etc etc bring back lots of memories.
Apr 14th, 2004, 02:54 PM
#18
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,611
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The photos that accompany this are at http://www.mightymac.org/04uk09.htm
Day 5 Tuesday April 6
This day I slept in, since I didn't need to be at Waterloo Railway Station until 10:15. At Waterloo I joined another tour by London Walks, this time led by Richard with the Red Cap (London Walks has several Richards). About 60 of us took the regularly scheduled train service to Salisbury, where Richard first led us on a tour along the River Avon, around many of the 13th-18th century buildings and through the 13th century cathedral with the tallest spire in England, the best preserved original Magna Carta (1215) and the oldest working clock in Europe.
While we were in the church, I noticed one of the bibles and had flash of incite. About 20 years ago, I tried to find an English Revised Standard Bible, but gave up after several weeks. I suddenly realized that I could easily get one online, now, but decided it would make a nice souvenir of the trip. I started by checking the cathedral's gift shop. They would sell me The Lord of the Rings, but no bibles. Still I had something new to look for at bookstores as I traveled.
We broke for lunch on out own and I walked to the farthest of the nearby pubs that Richard recommended, 200 year old The Cloisters. The roast chicken with chips was good, but slow and there wasn't much time to get back to join the tour. I had to hurry back in a hard, cold rain.
Once we were together again, We walked through part of the shopping district to catch a private double decker bus and ride the few miles out to Stonehenge. The rain stopped shortly after we got on the bus.
Richard led us on a tour around Stonehenge than gave us a little free time for photos and the gift shop. I got a cool T-shirt.
We returned to Salisbury for some time on our own before catching the train back to London. Another driving rain started as I walked back to the Salisbury rail station. It included the only hail of the trip. On the train ride back, I saw two rainbows. The first one, I could clearly see where the rainbow appear to end, but I didn't jump the train to search for the pot of gold.
It was nearly 7 PM when we got back to Waterloo Station, so I went directly to the Fortune Theatre near Covent Gardens for The Woman In Black. I enjoyed the two person ghost story. It is a play within a play, where one actor recreates some events from the other actor's past. While the other actor plays all the other roles. Staged with relatively few props and minimal costume changes, this performance is a lot like a radio play.
It was an interesting venue for people watching, with a number of odd little incidents in the audience. I had purchased my ticket in advance, taking advantage of Theatre Monkey's recommendation of the reduced price tickets for the last row of the stalls.
On the way back from the theatre, I stopped at another of the restaurants across from my hotel to get a seafood pizza to go. The folks at the restaurant weren't very friendly and the pizza was disappointing. It had only 2 small shrimp, 2 small mussels and a single slice of squid. An odd thing (to me) was that the shrimp & mussels were still in their shells. I won't try Bellavista again.
Keith
Day 5 Tuesday April 6
This day I slept in, since I didn't need to be at Waterloo Railway Station until 10:15. At Waterloo I joined another tour by London Walks, this time led by Richard with the Red Cap (London Walks has several Richards). About 60 of us took the regularly scheduled train service to Salisbury, where Richard first led us on a tour along the River Avon, around many of the 13th-18th century buildings and through the 13th century cathedral with the tallest spire in England, the best preserved original Magna Carta (1215) and the oldest working clock in Europe.
While we were in the church, I noticed one of the bibles and had flash of incite. About 20 years ago, I tried to find an English Revised Standard Bible, but gave up after several weeks. I suddenly realized that I could easily get one online, now, but decided it would make a nice souvenir of the trip. I started by checking the cathedral's gift shop. They would sell me The Lord of the Rings, but no bibles. Still I had something new to look for at bookstores as I traveled.
We broke for lunch on out own and I walked to the farthest of the nearby pubs that Richard recommended, 200 year old The Cloisters. The roast chicken with chips was good, but slow and there wasn't much time to get back to join the tour. I had to hurry back in a hard, cold rain.
Once we were together again, We walked through part of the shopping district to catch a private double decker bus and ride the few miles out to Stonehenge. The rain stopped shortly after we got on the bus.
Richard led us on a tour around Stonehenge than gave us a little free time for photos and the gift shop. I got a cool T-shirt.
We returned to Salisbury for some time on our own before catching the train back to London. Another driving rain started as I walked back to the Salisbury rail station. It included the only hail of the trip. On the train ride back, I saw two rainbows. The first one, I could clearly see where the rainbow appear to end, but I didn't jump the train to search for the pot of gold.
It was nearly 7 PM when we got back to Waterloo Station, so I went directly to the Fortune Theatre near Covent Gardens for The Woman In Black. I enjoyed the two person ghost story. It is a play within a play, where one actor recreates some events from the other actor's past. While the other actor plays all the other roles. Staged with relatively few props and minimal costume changes, this performance is a lot like a radio play.
It was an interesting venue for people watching, with a number of odd little incidents in the audience. I had purchased my ticket in advance, taking advantage of Theatre Monkey's recommendation of the reduced price tickets for the last row of the stalls.
On the way back from the theatre, I stopped at another of the restaurants across from my hotel to get a seafood pizza to go. The folks at the restaurant weren't very friendly and the pizza was disappointing. It had only 2 small shrimp, 2 small mussels and a single slice of squid. An odd thing (to me) was that the shrimp & mussels were still in their shells. I won't try Bellavista again.
Keith
Apr 14th, 2004, 05:00 PM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Keith I just viewed your photos of London, Paris and Normandy. My family and I are going to London, Paris and Normandy for the first time in June. I bookmarked your website so my husband could view your photos, especially Normandy. Thanks for sharing with us.
Apr 14th, 2004, 06:03 PM
#20
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,256
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Keith, thanks for such a well written trip report. I also read through your trip to France 2003. I laughed to see your picture of the Michigan store sign in Bayeux, we took the same one. It really did seem very odd to see it there. I thought your picture in front of the Louvre at night with your bike was absolutely beautiful, great lighting contrasts. Thanks again. Deborah
