Dayle

So - after 3 year's delay due to work and family, I finally get to make this long-anticipated trip to Sicily! I like a mix of cities and countryside, ruins and history, great food and wine and fantastic scenery. Planning for end of April and beginning of May, probably flying in/out of Palermo, but can consider open jaw with Catania if the itinerary order is shuffled.

I would really appreciate the Fodorites' input, especially on drive times, and unrushed sightseeing. After 3 previous trips to Italy, I am finally slowing down!

Nt 1 - Scopello
Nt 2 - Scopello - hike thru Zingaro Park
Nt 3 - Erice - wander Erice
Nt 4 - Erice - visit Trapani and pick up car?
Nt 5 - Agrigento - visit Segesta & Selinute, Ercola if time?
Nt 6 - Agrigento - temples and arch museum
Nt 7 - visit Villa Casale & Castigirone (SP?), ceramics - stay or continue to Ortygia?
Nt 8 - Ortygia - return car
Nt 9 - Ortygia - bus to Modica/Ragusa
Nt 10- Ortygia
Nt 11 - Ortygia
Nt 12 - Taormina
Nt 13 - Lipari - ferry from Milazzo, aliscafi if running
Nt 14 - Lipari - night boat tour to see Stromboli
Nt 15 - Lipari - visit Vulcano
Nt 16 - Lipari - visit Salina
Nt 17 - Lipari
Nt 18 - Palermo
Nt 19 - Palermo - Monreale
Nt 20 - Palermo - Cefalu maybe
Nt 21 Palermo
Fly home

Questions:

Is it possible to bus to Scopello from the Palermo airport without having to go to Trapani? Checked the Segesta bus but could not find a direct route.

Is it possible to drive from Trapani, visit Segesta, Selunite and still drive to Agrigento before dark? Too much?

Was going to stay at "bobthenavigator's agritourismo" near Piazza Amerina after visiting the mosaics and ceramics, but since his visit years ago it gets lots of bad reviews so it's out. Can I continue on to Ortygia or is this too much driving for one day?

Should I go from Agrigento to Modica and stay there 1 or 2 nts and return the car there before bus/train to Ortygia?

Must I ferry back to Milazzo from Lipari, or did I see a ferry from Lipari to Palermo? Don't know if it runs in May?

Taormina lodging is a problem. So expensive for the good views. Hate resorts, should I skip it? Didn't care much for Capri....

Thanks in advance for your input!

Dayle

kja

Sounds like a wonderful trip!

> Is it possible to drive from Trapani, visit Segesta, Selunite and still drive to Agrigento before dark? Too much?

That depends so much on individual choices, that its really hard to say! I began my day in Palermo, not Trapani, but you might be able to compare travel times on viamichelin or mappy, and if so, it might be helpful to know my experience: Having made a series of very bad wrong turns before getting out of Palermo (as a solo traveler with no navigator or GPS at the time), it was, as I recall, very late morning before I hit the major interstate-like roads. I spent the time I wanted to spend at Segesta and Selinunte before heading to Agrigento. I might have made it to Agrigento before sunset if I hadn't made another set of wrong turns as I was entering that city. (oops.) I reached my B&B just after sunset. That was in early May, so sunset would have been just a bit later than you will experience.

> visit Villa Casale & Castigirone (SP?), ceramics - stay or continue to Ortygia?

Again, what I did was a bit different, but you might find it informative. I left Agrigento in the late afternoon, after I spent the day visiting the ancient sites and the museum (which I'm glad to see you plan on visiting). I drove to Enna, which I reached in plenty of time to spend a few hours roaming around town before sunset and a delicious dinner. I left the next day - mid-morning as I recall - for the Villa Romana del Casala, where I spent several hours. I then drove to Caltagirone, where I checked into a B&B. I had enough time to roam around the town, climb La Scala, and shop for ceramics; I did not have time to see the museum in Caltagirone. I left the next morning in plenty of time to return my rental car in Siracusa before noon and then check into my B&B on Ortygia.

> Must I ferry back to Milazzo from Lipari, or did I see a ferry from Lipari to Palermo? Don't know if it runs in May?

Check this board for posts by GAC, who provides a wealth of information about transit in Sicily and beyond.

> Taormina lodging is a problem. So expensive for the good views. Hate resorts, should I skip it? Didn't care much for Capri....

Your analogy to Capri makes some sense. I must admit that I enjoyed both Capri and Taormina, but especially after day-trippers left. And I didn't pay for a room with a view of Mt. Etna while I was in Taormina. Much as I would have liked to wake up to that view, it was beyond my budget at the time. Instead, I chose a small hotel with a rooftop deck that offered views up the coast and across the sea to mainland Italy. Taormina's theater has stunning views; it has some very charming medieval streets and gates; and it is a good base if you want to visit Mt. Etna. If these are not your interests, or if other things in Sicily are of greater interest, skipping it would be reasonable.

Sicily is a delightful - enjoy!

Dayle

kja,

Your experiences and itinerary are very helpful! It gives me a better idea of drive times. I will also be traveling solo and driving/navigating might be a challenge, more so than in Tuscany/Umbria. I do hope to have a GPS to help out, but I know they tend to get confused too and cannot cope with ped only streets, or one way streets, or construction.....

I have been reading some of the past trip reports and have found more of GAC's public trans details. He's the most amazing source of all sources.

How did you enjoy the ceramics in Caltagirone? (And thanks for your patience with my spelling, I was too lazy to double check the exact names). Which B&B did you stay and how did you like it?

Grazie!

mamcalice

We loved Taormina. The views alone are the best we experienced in Sicily. We stayed at the Villa Schuler and our rooms overlooked Mt. Etna which erupted during our stay. I don't recall that the Villa Schuler was especially expensive.

Dayle

Thanks mamcalice,

Villa Schuler would be a good option, even paying more for a Deluxe Sea View room. The problem is they seem to have a minimum 2 night requirement and I don't really want to spend 2 nts in Taormina at the expense of my other destinations.

Maybe, if some tweaking makes sense on the Agrgento/Caltagirone stays.

Hotels I am considering:

Scopello - Pensione Tranchina
Erice - San Domenico
Agrigento - Terrazze di Montallusa B&B (in town) or Hotel Exclusive (near train station, but closer parking, maybe easier to drive to?)
Catalgirone - ?
Ortygia - Villa de Sale or Residencia Guiadecca, both look great with good locations
Palermo - Hotel Ambasacatori, or B&B Ai Carteri

On Lipari, I am researching villas since staying 5 days. I think I've found a couple of really good ones for my requirements.

Anyone have input on these lodging choices? I've taken some from other Fodorites' trip reports..thanks!

Hotel Belvedere looks good too. Any input on this one?

Leely2

Looks like a great itinerary. I loved Ortygia/Siracusa but I am not sure you need that many nights there. I stayed at Palazzo del Sale with some friends. We really enjoyed it. My room (no view) was quite spacious. I never finished doing my Sicily gallery...much less any report. But here's a pic of the interior of my room at del Sale:

http://www.pbase.com/leelygoes/image/137346558

Also, I have to plug the TripAdvisor Sicily board. When you get down to the nuts and bolts of how to get rom Point A to Point B most efficiently/scenically, there is a wealth of info there. Vagabonda and a few other posters are local and extremely helpful.

annhig

bmking as planning a trip to Sicily at about the same time.

Leely2

Oh, another thing, Dayle. It's not difficult/stressful to drive in and dump your rental car in Ortygia/Siracusa. Our rental place was just over the bridge and by this time we were fairly accustomed to driving in Sicily.

For what it's worth--probably not much!--I might cut a night from Agrigento and a night from Ortygia and stay two nights in either Ragusa or Modica. You can drive to Caltagirone and Piazza Armerina for the mosaics from there as a longish day trip. We of course got lost and took the extra-slow route, which was lovely. There is also a gorgeous back route (for most of the way) from Modica to Siracusa.

Dayle

Thanks Leely,

I was not too concerned about returning my car in Syracusa, so thanks for the confirmation on that point.

A bit concerned about navigating the narrow, twisty streets in Agrigento if I stay at the B&B in town, which looks to be a very nice place and highly rated. No way can I pay for the Hotel Athena!

I think the day from Agrigento to Villa Casale and Caltagrione, on to Syracusa, return car and check in is a pretty full day, so even though I have 4 nts in Ortygia, really just 3 days.

I was planning to visit a couple of the Baroque towns Ragusa/Modica via bus/train from Syracusa to cut down on the number of hotel changes. I guess I could drive from Agrigento to one of the two and visit Caltagrione from there.

The first week of my trip already has lots of lodging changes.
Is it easy to drive in and park in Modica?

Dayle

Leely,

Didn't any of the rooms at Palazzo de Sale have views?

Leely2

Palazzo del Sale does not face the water; it's about a block away. My friends had a room facing the street, which is charming. There was only one other couple staying while we were there so they had us all on the first (not ground) floor. There are upper floors--perhaps with views as you go higher up, I am not sure.

I didn't find the lack of views problematic because Ortygia itself is atmospheric and you are never far from the water.

kja

> How did you enjoy the ceramics in Caltagirone?

The ones around town were a delight! If you meant the ones I purchased, I was pleased with them and still smile each time I walk by the one I kept for myself. But I'm no expert on ceramics.

vespacurves

Why are you driving past Modica and Ragusa and giving up your car in Ortygia and then getting on a bus the next morning to go back to Modica and Ragusa?

I wouldn't want to be that many days in Ortygia without a car.

For what it's worth, I hated staying in Taormina. The theater is worth seeing for sure, but if you want views, stay in the town above (Castelmola).

annhig

has anyone stayed in Modica and/or Ragusa? or Noto?

i'm very confused about the best place/s to stay in the south eastern corner of Sicily.

Dayle

I'm with you on that one annhig! I'm trying to not have all 1 and 2 night stays on this trip. I don't know how hard it will be to drive solo into so many different cities and that is why I am trying to do buses where I have been told they are easily available, plus cut down on the number of hotel changes.

So Vespacurves, do you think it is better to drive from Agrigento to Modica (or Ragusa) and stay there for another 1 night stay, before heading to Ortygia? Then turn in the car and see Villa Casale and Caltagrione by bus?

Dayle

PS - I am trying to find pictures of the rooms at Residencia alla Guidecca on Ortygia, but Trip Advisor does not list this hotel and even their own web site only has "virtual tours" of the public rooms. I find it strange that they offer no pictures at all of their rooms, and no e mail address or phone number to contact on the web page either!

I guess they won't get my booking.

vespacurves

If you don't want a one-night hotel stay, I suggest you keep the car, at least to drive back to see Modica and Ragusa. The drive through the countryside is extremely pretty around there. Public transportations is not stellar in Sicily. I've never been to Caltigirone or Villa Casale, so can't advise about the best way to get there from anywhere.

If you want to stay overnight in Modica or Ragusa, there are lovely choices for both towns. Look on Tripadvisor (but pay attention to whether there is convenient parking and walkable restaurants nearby).

But personally, if I had your wish list of sights, I would stay 3 nights in Scicli to visit Modica, Ragusa, Caltigirone and Villa Casale (if it is open) from Scilci. Then I would spend 2 nights in Ortygia. Check out Tripadvisor for hotels in Scicli and google up info on Scicli. It's a hidden gem.

vespacurves

Someone I know stayed here and really liked it

http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Hotel_R...sa_Sicily.html

Dayle

Grazie vespacurves,
This sounds like a good possibility. I will research this town.

Dayle

kja

annhig ... has anyone stayed in Modica and/or Ragusa? or Noto?

I stayed in Noto and was very glad I did! It was a true delight to see its amazing architecture by daylight and then again in the evening. I didn't visit Modica or Ragusa, so I can't offer comparative information.