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-   -   ITALY TRIP REPORT: Venice, Positano & Amalfi Coast, Rome (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/italy-trip-report-venice-positano-and-amalfi-coast-rome-543739/)

hlocke1 Jul 15th, 2005 08:04 PM

Rome photos:
http://www.heatherandshawn.net/blog/...ome/index.html

<b>Next:</b> General tips...

Spygirl Jul 15th, 2005 09:14 PM

hlock1-well I see you just affirmed my opinion on this board about Vino Vino-mediocre food, brusque service-and as I posted before, when I walked in there sometime just before 9pm, they had run out of food! (their sardines in saor, btw,a signature Venetian dish, was awful).

On the other hand, you can't get much better, and more Venetian, than Ruga Rialto and Cantina do Mori-two of my favorite bacarie-will be at both of them in just a few weeks!

But was esp. interested in your Roman restaurant experience-I also, want to try Al Pompiere, having heard very good things about it, but unfortunately, most of the restaurants I want to try, including this one, are closed in August. Cavour is not, however, and it's very near my hotel, so I will try this enoteca for sure. Thanks for the reviews!

hlocke1 Jul 16th, 2005 05:17 AM

Hi spygirl -- Thanks for the input. I was so disappointed that we didn't get to try Vino Vino, but after hearing this, maybe I'm not so bothered. =)

We ate at both the Ruga and Do Mori last year and loved them. We threw Alla Botte into the mix this year and it ended up being our favorite. It's very nearby the others, as well (provided you haven't been there already). You just cross back over the Rialto Bridge and walk into Campo S. Bart. It's just down a tiny street there. You won't be disappointed if you're into the other two...

Have a great trip! - h.

justretired Jul 16th, 2005 07:03 AM

When we happened upon la bocca della verit&agrave; back in April, 1998, there were very few people around. Our guidebook prompted us to put our hands in the mouth and swear our fidelity, and if we were lying, la bocca would bite off our hand.

After Margie and I got through this tradition successfully, a young Italian couple appeared. He went through the ritual, but she refused to do it. He seemed genuinely upset. Perhaps la bocca della verit&agrave; really <i>does</i> work to reveal the truth - it can bite a couple even without actually removing a hand. It's nice to see that Heather and Shawn made it through intact.

I have never seen <i>Roman Holiday</i>, and knew nothing about la bocca before that trip. Some websites think la bocca is actually a large manhole cover; others that it was once part of a Roman fountain.

- Larry

hlocke1 Jul 16th, 2005 09:07 AM

Hi again, Larry -- We had heard that it was a manhole cover, as well. Our tour guide in Rome also told the group this.

Anyhow, thank you for sharing your story. I like your thinking... Now, you definitely need to see Roman Holiday! It has so much of the city and is a really nice story. -- h.

ms_go Jul 16th, 2005 11:56 AM

hlocke1, great report and wonderful photos! Thanks for sharing. Looking at your Capri, Positano and Ravello photos was a little trip down memory lane. Looks like we enjoyed a lot of the same places.

wanderer Jul 17th, 2005 03:48 AM

Heather -
Thanks for the report and photos. DH and I just got back from Venice, and will be going to Positano and Capri in May. Gave us lots to look forward to!

Are you a photographer by trade? Your photos are gorgeous!

hlocke1 Jul 17th, 2005 06:02 AM

Hi ms_go -- Your photos were wonderful, too. The Capri set definitely inspired me. I think we'll spend a lot more time their on our next visit.

Wanderer -- Aren't you lucky? And thank you for the nice compliment, but I am not a photographer by trade. =)

hlocke1 Jul 18th, 2005 07:00 AM

<b>GENERAL TIPS</b>
To finish this trip report, I would like to offer some general advice on a few things. None of this is new, but these are things that I see frequently asked here on the boards.

<b>Money &amp; Safety</b>
Before leaving, we ordered 200 Euros and US $150 in traveller’s checks (both free of charge though our bank and AAA). We also carried US $25. I always order Euros before a trip to have a bit of cash to start with. It is a free service from my bank and no hassle. While overseas, we relied solely on our ATM and credit cards to access money. We had no issues doing so and got a very good rate as expected.

To keep our passports, credit cards, and cash safe, we always wear an around-the-neck, under-the-clothes money pouch. This was my ninth trip to Europe and, save a few things that were stolen from our suitcase when it was not in our possession, I’ve never had anything taken.

<b>Packing</b>
We pack pretty lightly, choosing a selection of clothing that we can mix and match while we’re away. Because of this, we are always able to fit everything into a single small, rolling bag that fits in the overhead compartment on airplanes. This time, we allowed ourselves two small bags. We each claimed one, keeping our clothing separate and toiletries in my suitcase. In Venice, we were forced to check our bags (see “Flights” above) and one of the bags ended up lost for over three days. My DH was without a change of clothes over this time period.

Because of this, we learned a couple of lessons. In the future, we will not assume that our luggage will arrive safely even though we plan to store our bags in the overhead bin. An airline could force us to check our bags again when we’re not expecting it. More importantly, if we pack two bags, we plan to mix our things together in both of them. That way, if one of the bags did end up lost again, we would each have clothing available rather than leaving one of us to suffer with nothing.

<b>Digital Photography</b>
I am an amateur photographer that tends to fill several gigs of memory card space on each trip I take. Last year, I ran out of memory cards in Venice, the last place I wanted to be without photo-taking ability. This year, I considered having CDs burnt while we were over there to free up space, but opted for another solution instead. Apple recently released a camera connecter attachment that accompanies the iPod Photo. The camera connector allows you to hook up the camera to the iPod and move over all images to its hard drive. It takes about 20 minutes for a 512 MB card. Once they are uploaded, you can review each photo on the iPod. This worked extremely well for us and I was able to shoot as many pictures as I wanted. When we returned home, I connected the iPod to our computer and removed the photos. We were also able to compile a slideshow on the iPod that we could hook up to our TV to show our families.

<b>A Note about the Language...</b>
Before we went to Italy on our HM last year, my DH was slightly intimidated by the “language barrier”. I assured him it would not be a problem, but we decided to study Italian on our own before leaving and learned enough to get around. After returning from our HM, we enrolled in two semesters of Italian at our local university. They offer classes on Saturday mornings for those with full-time jobs. We loved these classes and will continue this fall. While English is widely spoken in Italy, we find that our Italian skills have made our trips so much more enjoyable and interesting. At the minimum, I would recommend learning some basic sentences like those in the Rick Steves or Berlitz phrasebooks. For those interested in learning more (and without the university option), we checked out a great CD set from our library by Pimsleur.

Thanks for reading. I look forward to continued learning through these boards to make our next trip even better! - Heather.

TexasAggie Jul 18th, 2005 12:09 PM

Hi Heather,

Absolutely FABULOUS trip report - I have printed every word and thrown it in my Italy file :-) Thank you so much for sharing all of your photos as well - you have a great deal of talent as a photographer!
So, where are y'all headed next? We're looking at Greece for next May.
Thanks again for posting such a great report!
Jill

hlocke1 Jul 18th, 2005 01:37 PM

Hi again, Jill --

Thank you so much. =) I'm so glad you started writing yours when you did, as well, since it ended up being a big help! I can't wait to hear how your trip ended. Also, do you plan on posting any photos?

As for our next trip, I think we're heading to London/Paris or London/Ireland next spring or fall. It will depend on whether or not we can break our Italy addiction. I have been to London loads of times, but the last visit was over five years ago, so I need to get back! Too bad our Italian won't come in handy there, though. ;)

Again, thank you for your nice comments. - Heather.

rickmav Jul 18th, 2005 02:28 PM

Hi Heather. Great report. We are travelling to Italy next spring and your comments have been very helpful. Was there a reason you didn't get a guide for the Vatican Museums? From this site I've almost got the impression that you can't enjoy them without a guide. Will be interested to hear your perspective.

hlocke1 Jul 19th, 2005 05:55 AM

Hi Rick -- We decided not to get a guide for a few reasons. Combining my previous visits and the in-depth DK guide we had, I thought we could tackle it. We were also looking to save a bit of money when possible and decided to place priority on the Colosseum and Forum. Hope that helps! Enjoy your trip... - h.

SusanP Jul 19th, 2005 07:16 AM

Heather, I have a question about Alla Botte in Venice. Does this type of place with tapas-style food have a menu? If not, did you ask what the prices of each item would be? Just wondering, after reading LoveItaly's story of her SIL getting scammed at a Rome restaurant where the waiter recommended specials and he didn't ask the price, which turned out to be very high.
Also, does this type of place take reservations, or do you even need one?

hlocke1 Jul 19th, 2005 01:55 PM

Hi Susan -- If you're not familiar with cichetti at the bars in Venice, let me try to explain better. To answer your first question, there are no menus posted. Basically, the food is on display behind the counter so you go up to the bar and point out what you want. If you don't know what you're looking at, the barman will be happy to tell you what each item is. The prices vary (mainly based on whether or not you choose vegetables or meat). We generally like to order a mixed plate and the cost can range from E10-18 total depending on how many items you choose.

Alla Botte, in particular, does serve meals, as well, in its back room. These options and the pricing are posted in that room.

Here is an article that might help explain cichetti even more:
http://www.ricksteves.com/plan/desti...y/nlpubven.htm

From our personal experiences with these bars, we have not been taken advantage of in any way. We made sure to pay with cash for all of our meals to avoid any hidden conversion charges you may have read about.

Also, no reservations are necessary when you're out for cichetti. They open early and generally fill up closer to traditional Italian eating time. Let me know if you have any other questions. - h.

SusanP Jul 19th, 2005 07:53 PM

Thanks, Heather, I do completely understand what cichetti is, I just wondered if you knew what the price was of what you were choosing. It sounds like it's going to be reasonable whatever you choose. I appreciate the info, Alla Botte sounds like a place I would enjoy, and I'm staying very near it.

hlocke1 Jul 20th, 2005 12:54 PM

Hi Susan -- Glad to hear it. I can't wait to hear how your experience is. The atmosphere was very laid-back and the food delicious. Enjoy!

smalti Jul 20th, 2005 01:31 PM

What a terrific, thorough report! Thanks for sharing it!

LoveItaly Jul 20th, 2005 04:38 PM

Hi SusanP, I just noticed your post regarding my Roman born and raised in Rome SIL. He was in a nontouristy section of Rome and he and my DD went to a restaurant where he had known the owner all his life. But the restaurant had been sold although he saw and talked to the previous owner.

There was a grilled meat dish on the menu which my SIL ordered. Then the owner came over and started suggesting &quot;instead of this meat I suggest this meat etc&quot;. My SIL was tired and stressed due to the family problems they had gone to Rome to try to help with. Everything sounded good to my SIL. But when the bill came the substitutions caused the restaurant bill to be something like 400% more (not really sure at this point) then the dish was priced at on the menu.

One of those &quot;ripoff cases&quot; that made my SIL so mad because he is a native of Italy. He was mad at himself because he was to tired to ask the owner &quot;and what is the difference in price&quot;.

It is good to be careful but I sure don't want anyone to think that everywhere in Italy restaurants will pull this scam.

The only time I have experienced something that was upsetting was in Florence. My late DH ordered some wine and the waiter suggested a different bottle. My DH said alright. The bottle of wine was something like 90 lira compared to the 10 lira that he originally ordered. And we didn't even like the wine, LOL.

So just a &quot;heads up&quot; to find out what one is ordering. Have a wonderful time in Italy, I am sure you will.

SusanP Jul 20th, 2005 07:51 PM

LoveItaly, I had read your whole story of what happened to your SIL, that's why I asked the question. I realize that not every restaurant is trying to scam the customers, just wondered if Heather knew the price of what she was ordering. I know I will have a great trip!


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