|
You are all too kind. As far as the camera goes, I recently purchased a Canon Rebel XT (digital SLR) for the artsy-fartsy shots. ;) We also took a tiny Canon Elph S500 because I don't always want to lug around the giant camera. I'm usually the picture taker in the family, but the hubby was great about practicing with the Elph on this trip. And now, to the good stuff:
Positano photos: http://www.heatherandshawn.net/blog/...ano/index.html Other Amalfi Coast pics coming soon, along with the review of our stay in Rome. =) |
Let me start with a question: what the heck does "DH" stand for? It's obvious that you're referring to your husband, but what do the letters mean? I've seen this used in dozens of threads, and have never figured it out.
This is a great trip report! I'll clip your Venice restaurant comments, and take them with me in late September. And terrific photos! We can tell who the photographer is - there are no pictures of Heather. Thanks. - Larry |
Wonderful pictures of the AC too. I'm sure cries of "I want to go back!" were heard from inside my office ;-)
|
Thank you so much for your wonderful trip report & pictures!! Your format and commentary made it so easy and fun to read. Am just yearning now for my next trip there!!
|
justretired: instead of writing husband, daughter, etc. people write dh or dd which stands for dear husband, dear daughter, etc. I don't know where this started but it is the norm now.
|
These are truly some of the best photos I've ever seen on Fodors!! Really. You have absolutely captured the beauty and the soul of both places. As an artist, I can see a painting in each one. Can't wait to see Rome. Great trip report too.
|
Barb - What a lovely comment. Thank you for that.
TexasAggie - I'm also already looking at these pics and wanting to go back, as well. We haven't even been home for a week! =) Here are the rest of our Amalfi Coast photos: Capri: http://www.heatherandshawn.net/blog/...pri/index.html Amalfi & Ravello: http://www.heatherandshawn.net/blog/...llo/index.html Next up: Rome review and photos |
Wow, we didn't get to up to the mountaintop in Capri but your photos are amazing. Something else to tuck away for our next trip! Were you all able to make it to the Villa Jovis or Natural Arch?
|
Hi again, TexasAggie --
Unfortunately, we did not. We had a lot planned for Capri, but we ended up just going for a small part of the day. We had to keep dealing with the piece of lost luggage back in Positano, so that took some time away from us. =( Anyhow, like you, I think we'll be returning! Next time, I think I'd like to stay on Capri for a couple of nights at least... - h. |
Again, these photos are just amazing. Was it scary taking the chairlift up the mountain on Capri. I would love to do this, but I'm a little afraid of heights and that chairlift looks awfully scary.
|
Hi Barb -- Thank you. =) The chairlift was not scary at all. My husband is also afraid of heights and he enjoyed it thoroughly. You're probably 20 feet off the ground and secured with a metal bar (but no seat belt). We saw several women riding with small babies on their laps, too. The ride moves very slowly and is an experience I would definitely not miss out on! At the minimum, you'll be very distracted by the gorgeous view. ;)
|
<b>ROME</b>
We had fallen head-over-heels for the Amalfi Coast, so when it came time to leave, we weren’t excited about heading to Rome. We had also intended to visit Pompeii on the way, but decided to take more time with our Swedish friends and enjoy Positano as long as we could. We’ll definitely return and Pompeii will still be there… After a pretty miserable experience with the Circumvesuviana on the way to Positano (see “Transportation to and from…” under Positano), we had a lovely ferry ride into Salerno. We then took a Eurostar into Rome, which was a good opportunity to rest and write in our trusty travel journal. When we arrived, we were pleased to find that the weather was really nice. We had been hearing that it was extremely warm in Rome this summer, but during our stay, it was sunny, breezy, and all-around pleasant. Note: Because of some last-minute changes to our itinerary, we had to split our four nights in Rome between two hotels. While this wasn’t terribly convenient, it was nice to stay in two different parts of the city. This isn’t how we would normally function, though… ----- <b>HOTELS Nicolas Inn, Via Cavour 295, E140/night cash only</b> We had a lovely stay at the Nicolas Inn. Our American hostess, Melissa, was extremely friendly and helpful. We really enjoyed meeting her. The inn’s location is superb. It’s on a very busy street, but only a couple of blocks away from the Colosseum and Forum. The hotel was also an easy 10-minute walk from Termini. We were given a large room with simple decoration, satellite TV (including CNN), and a fully-functioning air conditioner. The windows kept all sound out from the busy street below. My DH most appreciated the high pressure shower and we decided it was even better than the one we have in our home. =) Melissa serves a simple breakfast of bread, fruit, juice, and coffee in the rooms each morning. She is in the inn each day until around 4:00 pm. After she leaves, there is no desk staff. So, staying at the Nicolas Inn is very independent. We liked this element and, overall, found that the Nicolas Inn felt like home. <b>Argentina Residenza, 47 Via di Torre Argentina, E167/night</b> After two nights at the homey Nicolas Inn, we moved to the Argentina Residenza. The two couldn’t have been further apart in atmosphere. Calling itself a “boutique hotel”, the Argentina Residenza is sleek with dark wood and chrome accents. We were given a 2-level room (bathroom on the top floor alongside a twin bed) that included a small fridge, satellite TV (no English-speaking stations, though), and a lounge area. The room was clean and very nice. The Argentina Residenza’s staff was a slightly different story. With the exception of one friendly employee, the others we encountered acted completely uninterested in running this small hotel. Interaction with them was professional, yet very limited and uninviting. We longed for Melissa’s helpful advice and recommendations at the Nicolas Inn. Also in contrast to the Nicolas Inn, the Argentina Residenza is fully staffed throughout the night. However, when we returned at 11:00 pm one night, we were buzzed in and found our keys waiting for us on the front desk. No staff was in sight and every other room key was waiting for its owner, as well. This didn’t feel terribly secure to me. On a more positive note, the hotel’s location was superb. We were just across from the Cat Sanctuary (which we just adored) and could walk to the Pantheon or Piazza Navona within 10 minutes. Overall, though, I don’t think we would return. The price was high and the quality of service was disappointing. |
Beautiful beautiful photos! Thank you for sharing them with us. It makes me so upset that the day I was in Ravello and it was picture perfect too, I left my camera in the apartment.
A question about Monte Solaro: I have hesitated about going up there because I have acrophobia too. Once you get up there is there a place to walk that isn't right on the cliff? From your photos it looks like you can step right up to the bluff overlooking the droooop to the sea. That would make me so dizzy, but I want to go up there! |
Wow ! You have set a new standard, along with the Go Family, for trip reports. Just superb.
|
SeaUrchin, thanks for the explanation of "DH". I guess it doesn't mean "Designated Hitter".
Heather, thanks for more magnificent photos! And finally a good one of you, on the infinite balcony. But then there's another photo that shows one end of the balcony, so I guess it's only semi-infinite, to use a mathematical term. (I attended MIT, where they have something called the "Infinite Corridor".) In Nerja, Spain, we visited an attractions called "El Balcón de Europa": http://nodo018.bankhacker.com/pueblo...s/00096527.jpg Nice, but not as pretty as the one at the Villa Cimbrone. - Larry |
Thanks again for all of the positive feedback!
SeaUrchin -- I probably held my camera over the edge for some of those shots. Sorry to give you the wrong impression! It's very, very safe, wide, and level on top of Monte Solaro. There is even a cafe with a seating area. If you didn't see the amazing Go family pics, you might want to check them out. They posted a great shot of the cafe area. Bob - I'm flattered. Your reports have inspired me greatly. Larry - Just wait... you'll get to see me slurping carbonara in the Rome set of photos. ;) Otherwise, I hadn't heard of the "Europe balcony" in Spain. It looks promising, though. As for Ravello, I think the "infinity" might be referring the view, rather than the actual structure itself. Thanks for the giggle. |
Heather, What a great report and beautiful pictures! Looking forward to the Rome portion.
|
<b>RESTAURANTS
Santa Cristina, Via della Cordonata 21-22</b> When we arrived at this restaurant, it was completely empty. I have no idea why… it was easily one of the best meals we had during this trip. It is a bit hidden, but completely worth looking for. The interior is cozy and we were served a complimentary glass of prosecco upon being seated. For E38 total, we had stuffed mushrooms (four to an order), spinach gnocchi with gorgonzola, a decent-sized piece of cheese and onion lasagna, and a half-liter of wine. The lasagna was really heavy and flavorful, different from the American version filled with ricotta and tomato sauce. The portion sizes were probably the smallest we had seen, but we don’t usually eat a ton, so it worked for us. There were also separate coperta and bread charges, but the bread was baked fresh and served hot. Yum! We really enjoyed this meal and would return again, perhaps with a bigger appetite. <b>Cavour 313, near the Colosseum/Forum</b> We stopped in here for a light lunch before our Icon tour of the Colosseum and surrounding area. We loved this little enoteca. Their bottled wine list was very impressive and we were able to find wines that other enotecas in Rome did not offer. For lunch, we ordered a mixed salami platter, goat cheese crostini, and a sizeable bottle of water (E23). Along with the usual bread, we were able to easily fill up on this and left quite happy. I think I’m obsessed with herbed goat cheese now… <b>Hosteria da Nerone, Via delle Termi di Tito 96, near Colosseum</b> If you reserve a table at Nerone, you can be guaranteed a lovely view of the Colosseum. We walked up at the right time and snagged the last sidewalk table with a view. The next reservation-less group that walked up was seated around the corner with only traffic to look at. We had just finished our tour, so eating here was a lovely way to relax afterwards. For a total of E26, we both ordered spaghetti alla carbonara (from their traditional Roman menu) with a half-liter of their house white wine. The carbonara was fabulous, the wine was horrible. Exhausted from our three hour tour of the area, this was one of those meals where we barely spoke and just ate. If you visit our photo album from Rome, you’ll see a nice shot of the carbonara as I dug into it. This was our first experience with carbonara and now we will have to scour our hometown looking for a sufficient equivalent. =) <b>Dal/Al Pompiere, Via Saint Maria dei Calderari 38</b> We had seen Rachael Ray cooing over her meal at this restaurant on “$40 a Day” and had to check it out for ourselves. It was located very close to our hotel at Largo Torre Argentina, as well, so it was very convenient. Once again, we arrived so early that we practically had the place to ourselves. We love Italy dearly, but we just can’t shake the habit of wanting to eat before 8:00 pm. =) Anyhow, this was another winner. The service could have been better, but I think it might have just been our particular waiter that was a bit odd. For E38 total, we ordered deep-fried zucchini blossoms, a battered and fried artichoke, gnocchi with pomodoro, bucatini all’Amatrice, and a bottle of Frascati. The starters made it all worthwhile. The zucchini blossom was a terribly small portion, but the artichoke was giant! I could have eaten a meal of them, but couldn’t help thinking that they are Italy’s equivalent to the bloomin’ onion (but more delicious). Their menu was seriously impressive, though, with many traditional options. We would return to this restaurant. <b>Da Baffetto, Via del Governo Vecchio 114, near Piazza Navona</b> I think this might be the best pizza I’ve ever tasted. It’s so hard to judge with pizza because it’s never too disappointing. The thin, wood-fired crust, fresh ingredients, and amazing cheese were just the perfect combination. I usually eat two pieces of a standard American pizza and I cleaned up an entire small pizza here. Should I have admitted that? ;) For E19, this was the best value we encountered. My DH ordered a capriciossa while I had an onion and mushroom combination. For starters, we ordered bruschetta, hoping for a last taste of juicy, red Italian tomatoes. Instead, we were served the most sub-par bruschetta I’ve seen. Basically, we were served bread with a huge slice of an unripe tomato on top. Luckily, the pizza was so good that we forgot about it. The service at Da Baffetto isn’t terribly friendly, mostly all business. We were seated outside and another couple was placed at our table. In this situation, we weren’t bothered by this, but I want to warn others who might be. =) We weren’t looking for a romantic meal… just some amazing pizza. <b>Cul de Sac, Piazza Pasquino</b> We popped in here to purchase a bottle of Orvieto Classico and were amazed at their prices and friendliness. We didn’t have a meal here, but were served bread (free of charge) and had a couple of glasses of wine. The servers were extremely helpful because we were looking for a somewhat rare wine. Unfortunately, they did not have it, but they were kind nonetheless. We loved the atmosphere, as well. Definitely a place to return to for a relaxed lunch or drink. |
<b>GELATO
Giolitti, via Uffici del Vicario 40, near Pantheon</b> I thought Giolitti might be a bit of a trap, but it was so fun! I seriously felt like a kid in a candy shop. The front half of the shop is filled with pretty cookies and yummy candies. The back half holds the gelato selection, and what a selection it is. They had so many flavors (approximately 60!), several of which we had never seen before. We went nuts and got a three-flavor cone. Not only was it giant, but the server forced whipped cream onto mine, as well. =) We had already made two other gelato stops earlier the same day (it really is a sickness for us) and this one still felt unique and delightful. <b>San Crispino, Via Paneterria 42, near Trevi Fountain</b> On our last night, we walked back over to the Trevi Fountain because we had to try San Crispino’s gelato. This was some of the most interesting and delicious gelato I’ve had yet… the perfect way to end our daily routine of gelato-eating. We loved chatting with the server and couldn’t believe the way he could expertly divide and pack a gelato cup into three sections. My DH chose ginger & cinnamon, crema di cacao, and stracciatella. I chose the heavenly combination of honey, meringa di nocciola (hazelnut meringue), and lemon cream. This was the most expensive gelato we had, as well, but was worth the E6.40 we paid for it. Their unique flavors are definitely worth making a special visit to try. <b>Blue Ice, several locations</b> We were tipped off to try Blue Ice by some locals. Unfortunately, each time we passed one, we weren’t in gelato mode (rare as that was). I’m making a note for our future return, however, based on the sight of the gelato alone. Each fluffy mound must have been piled a foot high inside of their cases! |
<b>SIGHTSEEING
Rome at night (Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps)</b> Because we arrived late in the afternoon on our first day in Rome, we immediately went to dinner. Afterwards, we walked to the Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps so my DH could get his first look at them. We were surprised at how walkable Rome seemed. Over the next four days, we would walk everywhere except Vatican City. I was immediately disappointed to find that the Spanish Steps felt completely different than what I remembered from my last visit 11 years ago. For starters, the church at the top of the steps, Trinita dei Monti, was hidden behind a shroud as it is apparently being restored. Second, there were no flowers lining the steps as I had remembered. Lastly, both the steps and the Trevi Fountain were littered with the most annoying vendors selling cheap scarves, weird rubber toys, and roses. Both of these sights seemed to have lost some of the magic they held for me for so long. I was disappointed that my DH couldn’t see what I had excitedly been telling him about for so long. On the way back to our hotel, we came upon a man holding a tiny white Chihuahua. The dog was holding a gelato cone in its mouth! Needless to say, that helped me get over the Spanish Steps disappointment pretty quickly. <b>Bocca della Verita</b> As a huge Audrey Hepburn and Roman Holiday fan, I made it a mission to see the “Mouth of Truth” on this trip to Rome. It was overcrowded with tourists at mid-morning when we went. But, we stood in line and waited our turn to stick our hand in its mouth. We are proud to say that neither of us lost a hand in the process. The Bocca is an impressively creepy sight. For those wanting to live out Roman Holiday, I’d recommend you go early in the morning to get some alone time with it. <b>Capitoline Museums, E7.80/each</b> We enjoyed the Capitoline Museums, particularly the Palazzo dei Conservatori. My DH was strangely fascinated with the Romulus and Remus she-wolf, as well as the Medusa. I enjoyed the courtyard with the fragments of the giant Constantine. These were fun to photograph, but I’m not quite sure their size comes across accurately. The Palazzo Nuovo was basically a museum displaying many busts. Interesting, but less diverse than the Conservatori. <b>Icon Tours, Ancient Rome, E25/each</b> On our second day, we chose to take a guided tour of the Colosseum, Roman Forum, and Palantine Hill. We were led by Sarah who has lived in Rome for four years. She was quite knowledgeable and really helped us understand the history and evolution of the area better. The entire tour lasted 3 hours (instead of the allotted 2.5) and was worth every penny. <b>Roman Cat Sanctuary</b> A visit to the cat sanctuary (www.romancats.com) is a must for cat-lovers. The Torre Argentina is basically a giant cat playground. Everywhere you look, there are kitties hanging out amongst the ruins. It’s a very interesting and humane project. During the day, they also run a small charity shop where proceeds benefit the sanctuary. We especially liked to look into the area at night when the cats were at their friskiest. <b>St. Peter’s Basilica</b> From Torre Argentina, we took the #40 bus to Vatican City. The journey was super easy and not very crowded. When we arrived at St. Peter’s, we had to walk through a security checkpoint before entering. I’m not sure if this was standard routine or a result of the panic after the London bombings the previous day. =( Once inside, we were in awe of St. Peter’s size and intricacy. I made myself a bit dizzy just from looking up so much. My DH was really impressed and was glad that this was the final church we would visit on our trip. He had decided that all others would pale in comparison to it. <b>Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel</b> Because of its enormity, we walked at a brisk pace through the Vatican Museums on our way to the Sistine Chapel. It was fairly crowded, as every sight in Rome had been during our trip. I enjoyed the mosaic floors throughout certain sections of the museum. We both loved the gallery of maps with its bright colors, intricate designs, and historical purpose. The Sistine Chapel was more impressive than I had remembered. Michelangelo’s ceiling is so three-dimensional and alive. The colors throughout the chapel are bold and stunning. Again, we got dizzy from looking up so long. When entering the chapel, it’s best to stake out a seat. That way, you can relax while you are gawking at this amazing piece of work. |
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 03:43 PM. |