ITALY TRIP REPORT: Venice, Positano & Amalfi Coast, Rome
 

We just returned for 12 glorious nights in Italy. Thanks to everyone on this board that helped us plan accordingly! I will be posting this in chunks as I complete it.

<b>OVERVIEW</b>
DH and I decided to return to Italy for our first anniversary after a wonderful honeymoon there last year. Last year’s itinerary focused on northern destinations and excluded Rome. I had been twice before, so Rome was a big part of our trip for my husband this year. The only city we returned to from our honeymoon was Venice. It’s so enchanting and even though it was out of the way, we knew we had to return. We spent 12 nights in Venice, Positano, and Rome.

<b>ITINERARY</b>
Venice : 3 nights
Positano : 4 nights
Rome : 4 nights
Venice : 1 night

<b>FLIGHTS</b>
We purchased r/t tickets from Cincinnati - Venice (we are based out of Indianapolis) for $700 each as part of a special offer with Delta. The flight had one layover in Rome. We thought we might be able to make our own open-jaw itinerary and begin our trip in Rome, but it is against Delta’s policies to do so. We saved a significant amount of money with this offer, though, so we returned to Venice at the end of our trip to return home.

Our flights from and returning to Cincinnati were fine. The Rome – Venice leg was operated by Alitalia as a part of Delta’s sky team. We flew Alitalia last year and had a miserable time with them. This year was no different. For starters, our flight into Venice was cancelled at the last minute. Alitalia rerouted us through Verona on a later flight, telling us they would take us to Venice’s airport via a shuttle bus. We had not checked our luggage, so once we landed, the DH and I went into Venice on our own via train to avoid any further hassles. This set us back quite a few hours.

We also flew Alitalia direct from Venice – Naples when leaving for the Amalfi Coast. It was storming in Venice and the flight left two hours late. Alitalia forced us to check our small bags and somehow managed to lose one of them. Ugh. Considering it was a direct flight, we have no idea how this happened. Alitalia told us not to worry and said they would deliver it to Positano the next day. The bag did not arrive until 7:30 pm three nights later! So, my DH was without a change of clothes for three days. We also had a few small things stolen from the bag. Alitalia was unapologetic.

On the return flight home, Alitalia forced us to check the bags yet again. We pack very light and had small bags that would easily fit into the overhead bins. I explained that I did not want to check the bags because we had only just recovered one of them from being lost. Again, the employee we were dealing with could not have cared less. She said that there was a 5-kilo maximum, but judging by some of the other bags they allowed into the cabin, I find it hard to believe. Luckily, the bags did make it back to the US. I do not plan to fly with Alitalia again, though. We’ve had nothing but bad experiences with them.

<b>RESTAURANTS</b>
We chose reasonably-priced restaurants throughout the trip (often two EEs by DK guide standards). We enjoy food and wine quite a bit and are full-blown gelato snobs (LOL). I did a lot of research on this site beforehand to make sure we would eat well. =) Thank you again for everyone’s suggestions!

<b>VENICE</b>

<b>HOTELS</b>
<b>Giorgione, Cannaregio, E150/night</b>
We booked this hotel through venere.com and based on tripadvisor.com recommendations. We were given a dark, musty room that was significantly less than what we were expecting (#226). The first three days in Venice were extremely hot and our A/C was functioning very poorly. It was built into a nook under the window and was only blowing a small amount of air directly onto the window sill above. I wasn’t feeling well when we left the US, so the lack of circulating, cool air in the room made me miserable. We asked to be switched to another room and were told that it was not possible since we had booked via the internet. This surprised me. They eventually sent a technician who cleaned it up and left the cover off to redirect the air flow. This helped quite a bit, but was still below what we expected considering the cost of the room. This affected our stay so greatly that we were relieved when we finally left three nights later.

Otherwise, the staff was very professional. They offer free internet in the lobby. It was often crowded, but we were able to get on each day at some point. The breakfast was very generous (and even included eggs) and was served in a lovely outdoor courtyard.

Regardless of these positive aspects, I do not think we will return to the Giorgione. We just did not feel that the room was adequate enough to justify the price.

<b>Albergo Guerrato, San Polo, E120/night with cash</b>
We stayed at the Guerrato at the end of our trip when we returned to go to the airport. For the cost, this was such a value. While we weren’t there long enough to see everything they have to offer, we got a nice taste. The room (#14) was large, well air-conditioned, and comfortable with minimal decoration. The staff (especially Piero) was very friendly and professional. They prepared a huge to-go bag for our early flight the next day, as well. We will return to this hotel.

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<b>RESTAURANTS
Alla Botte - Calle della Bissa 5482, Rialto</b>
We loved this tiny bar and its delicious cichetti (tapas-style appetizers that you can make a meal out of). We ended up eating here on both the first and last nights of our trip. For E15 total, two people can munch on two plates of cichetti with one drink each. We had grilled tomatoes, shrimp salad, fried zucchini flowers, seafood fritters, herbed goat cheese, and breaded potatoes. You can also sit at the tables in the back for no cover. The crowd seemed around our age (early 30s).

<b>Gatto Nero – Burano</b>
We had lunch here during an excursion to Burano. It was rather hard to find because it is off the main street a bit, but was worth looking for. For approximately E30, we had grilled eel and spaghetti w/ragu. Both were amazing, especially the eel. We live in the Midwest, so this was a treat for us. The place was filled with locals… even the police were eating there.

<b>Ruga Rialto / Cantina do Mori – San Polo, near Rialto Bridge</b>
We made a meal out of the cichetti offered at these two bars one evening. We ate at both of these places last year and just loved them. The selection is not as broad as that offered at Alla Botte, but both are delicious nonetheless. We chose calamari, veal meatballs, potatoes with sun-dried tomatoes, seafood fritters, and a small sandwich. Again, we spent less than E20 total for dinner that evening.

<b>Trattoria da Gianni – Strada Nova 4377, Cannaregio</b>
We had planned on eating at Vino Vino this evening, having read that they offer a nice meal at a reasonable cost. Their website even gives the impression that dining is possible and offers a discount on dinner. When we arrived, we were told that they only serve what amounted to 5 small cichetti-like dishes. I’m not sure if we were doing something wrong, but this was upsetting. So, left without a plan, we ended up eating near our hotel at a rather touristy place. I knew it would be a mistake from the moment we sat down and it was. My DH enjoyed his penne alla arrabiata somewhat, but mostly because it cleared his sinuses. LOL. I ordered rigatoni with vegetables and found it to be bland and uninspiring. I was sad to have wasted a meal on this place.

<b>Al Volto – Calle Cavalli, near Rialto Bridge</b>
We tried this cichetti bar on our return to Venice at the end of our trip and found it highly disappointing. For E12, we were served two drinks, a small portion of pickled mushrooms, and an olive/seafood dish. Compared to the other bars we had visited, we got very little for our money in terms of quality and quantity.

<b>GELATO</b>
<b>Paolin – Campo S. Stefano, San Marco</b>
Definitely the best one we had in Venice this time. My DH tried mixing coconut and giandiua and enjoyed it thoroughly.

<b>Gelateria Artiginale – Burano</b>
Easy to spot with the giant ice cream cone outside, this shop/gelateria had some of the fluffiest gelato we saw the entire trip. My ever-daring DH tried their most outrageous flavor – Coca Cola. He actually enjoyed it and said it tasted a lot better than a Coke-flavored slush.

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<b>SIGHTSEEING
Burano</b>
We decided to take small day trips this time since we saw a lot of the city last year on our HM. On our first full day, we took the #12 vaporetto from Fondamente Nove to Burano. The ride was a lovely break from the extreme heat Venice was experiencing since we were able to get a breeze. We passed San Michele and Murano along the way, so the views from the boat were pretty nice, as well.

Burano was even more charming than I expected. I had envisioned a small area with brightly-colored houses, but instead, found that the whole island was covered in them. It was a photographer’s dream. =) There aren’t many “sights” so we just walked around and looked at the shops and homes. We were able to purchase some small souvenirs here much cheaper than they would have been on Venice proper.

<b>Padova</b>
We decided to visit Padova and the Scrovegni Chapel on day 3. The train ride was a quick 20 minutes from Venice. Once there, we were able to walk right into the Scrovegni Chapel without reservations. You can only visit the chapel for 15 minutes, but it is worth it. It is similar to the Sistine Chapel (but on a much smaller scale) in that it’s covered from top to bottom in decoration.

Before we returned to Venice, we stopped into a small deli just off of the market square. It was packed inside and the menu offered countless combinations for sandwiches. This was a super cheap and easy option for lunch. Delicious, too!

<b>Next:</b> Positano &amp; The Amalfi Coast

Hi

I love your trip report. In particular the way you have set it up -it is really easy to read. The best layout I've seen! Don't forget to post your hotel review on Trip Advisor.

Can't wait for report on Amalfi.

Cheers

A great report. Really appreciate the affordable cichetti tips. Looking forward to hearing about the rest of your trip!

Great report hlocke1, and very well organized!

Thank you all for the nice comments. =)

Here is a sampling of photos from the Venice portion of our trip that I finished putting together today:
http://www.heatherandshawn.net/blog/...ice/index.html

Next part of the report coming soon!

Burano photos:
http://www.heatherandshawn.net/blog/...ano/index.html

Thanks I will be in some of the same locations and will visit the same eaterys thanks.

Great format---tell us more !

<b>POSITANO

TRANSPORTATION TO &amp; FROM POSITANO</b>
After our stay in Venice, we took a flight to Naples (see “flights” above) to help speed up the amount of time spent traveling to Positano. At the Naples airport, we were able to easily catch a bus to the train station. From there, we took the Circumvesuviana train to Sorrento. We did not enjoy the Circumvesuviana at all. We usually love train rides, but our timing put us on a slow train that seemed to stop every twenty feet. The train was altogether unpleasant. Once we arrived in Sorrento, we found the SITA stop with ease just outside of the station. We had to wait another hour for the bus to Positano. I’m not crazy about lengthy car or bus rides because I tend to get motion sickness. We sat on the driver’s side and I wore sea bands the entire trip. The views and Italian bus drivers were impressive. To fully enjoy both, I would definitely recommend taking sea bands to those who might be susceptible to motion sickness. We took several ferries during our stay in Positano, as well, and I experienced no problems.

When we left Positano for Rome, we decided to take a different route that proved much nicer than the Circumvesuviana – SITA method. From Positano, we took a ferry to Salerno where we caught a train to Rome. We enjoyed the ferries so much that it was nice to relax while taking in even more views of the Amalfi Coast as we left. Salerno’s train station was a short walk from the marina, so it couldn’t have been easier. Overall, this probably took an extra half hour, but was significantly more enjoyable.

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<b>HOTEL
Albergo California, E150/night</b>
Run by Maria and Antonio, this hotel was a real treat. Upon check-in, Maria told us that our room was used in “Under the Tuscan Sun” (#62). We thought that was pretty funny because we knew the exact scene she was talking about. ;) The room was very spacious, nicely decorated, had great air conditioning, and was located on the second floor. The view would bring us back to this hotel in a heartbeat. It is true that the lower, main-level rooms open out onto the shared breakfast balcony and would be slightly obscured by the grapevines covering the area. We did not make any special requests for this upper level room, so I’m not sure of Maria’s policy regarding choosing a room.

The service was wonderful, as well. Maria was happy to arrange reservations for us and the staff was very pleasant. The breakfast consists only of breads and coffee/tea, but for a small fee, they provide several other options, including wonderful scrambled eggs and out-of-this-world orange juice.

We only had a couple of minor problems with our stay. The main thing we found odd occurred when we presented our Rick Steves book for the “promised” price of E130/night. Maria was unwilling to honor it, saying that it was a mistake. Regardless of that, we would return to this hotel again because it was a good value and very charming.

<b>RESTAURANTS
Da Costantino</b>
After reading TexasAggie’s recent review of this restaurant, we knew we had to go. =) We were picked up outside of our hotel alongside other diners from the area. After a short drive to the other side of town, we were seated alongside the panoramic window and drooled over the view below us the entire time. For E50, we were treated to bruschetta, gnocchi alla sorrentina, a quattro stagione pizza, mixed grilled vegetables, a slice of pear tart, limoncello, and a bottle of a regional white wine. Before our meal arrived, a cook went to the window and picked fresh basil that I swear showed up in my gnocchi several minutes later. You can’t get ingredients fresher than that. =) Overall, we were really impressed with this meal.

I will warn any future diners to be sure you are ready to stay there for awhile or to be prepared to arrange your own return transportation. We went on our first night in Positano and weren’t familiar with the bus system (which turned out to be very easy to use), so we were relying on their van to return us to the hotel. That wouldn't have been a big deal, but we were fairly exhausted because we had been traveling all day and finished before the others we arrived with. We ended up waiting for them for another hour. Next time, we’ll be sure to save this restaurant for a night we aren’t tired because it is to be savored. =)

<b>La Tagliata, Montepertuso</b>
Based on the recommendation of several Fodorites, we chose to celebrate our anniversary at La Tagliata. Fortunately for us, our anniversary falls on the same night as the festival honoring the town’s church. Maria was able to arrange a car for us again and we were taken high above Positano to Montepertuso. A special table had unknowingly been arranged for us, so we had a wonderful view of Positano below us, as well as Montepertuso decorated for the festivities. At this point, we began to wonder if there were any restaurants with bad views. =) We were again pleased with what we ordered: cannelloni, spaghetti with shrimp, a mixed grill platter, and a mixed cake plate featuring their unforgettable Torta della Nonna. We spent E61 and later found out that they offer an extensive fixed-price menu that basically includes the same amount of food for around the same price.

On the car ride back from La Tagliata, we were paired up with several couples. We ended up meeting a wonderful Swedish pair who we traveled and dined with over the next two days. We could have watched the festival fireworks from the restaurant, but instead, we all opted to head back to Positano’s beach for the view it would offer.

<b>Grottino Azzuro</b>
We enjoyed this small, family-run trattoria near the Chiesa bus stop. The view was not as nice as the first two restaurants we visited, but the friendly service and low prices were unbeatable. For E25, we ordered bruschetta, a mixed pasta plate, pumpkin ravioli, tiramisu, and a carafe of wine. This place is laid-back and very small. We had fun practicing our Italian with the server, who knew just a bit of English. If you reserve a table ahead of time, they can hold the nicest table near the window for you.

<b>La Gavitella, Praiano</b>
On our last night in Positano, our new Swedish friends chose where we would be dining. They had arranged for a small boat to take us to La Gavitella (www.ristorantelagavitella.it) on the water front just a short ride away from Positano. We loved the boat ride and had high expectations for the night ahead. As soon as we walked in, we were greeted with the most delicious bellinis I have had to date. Again, this set my expectations even higher. Our table had a spectacular view of Positano as the sun began to set. We had already figured out that we would be over budget on this meal, but were having so much fun with our new friends that we decided not to worry about it.

We ended up ordering too much food. The portion sizes were quite generous. We started with a mixed appetizer plate, which had several tasty deep-fried items (zucchini blossoms and asparagus, for example), as well as a sampling of seafood for only E14. For our meals, we ordered a mixed seafood plate (that was really quite large), pasta with shrimp, and mixed fried vegetables. Our friends ordered prawns and another pasta dish. Overall, we found this part of the meal to be bland and rather disappointing. As soon as we were seated, the quality of the service also declined rather significantly. We spent a total of E50 and, within that same price range, much preferred Da Costantino or La Tagliata.

<b>Cumpa Cosimo, Ravello</b>
We happened upon this restaurant during lunch in Ravello and I quickly recognized its name from having read about it here. =) I chose fusili w/pomodoro while Netta encouraged my DH to try the mixed pasta (E26 total). I ended up wishing I had ordered it, as well. Each dish was yummy, but oh, those crespelle! I hope I can either find or make something comparable here at home based on the taste my DH shared with me.

<b>GELATO
Buca di Bacco, near the beach in Positano</b>
Buca di Bacco has a small gelato stand just off the beach. This was our favorite stop in Positano. They offer special flavors specific to the area, such as “Positano” and limoncello. Their Kinder flavor was also out-of-this world, with ribbons of chocolate throughout the gelato. Photos will be coming. =) The cost was also reasonable considering its location right on the beach. We tried the brioche on our last night there, but didn’t quite understand the appeal.

<b>SIGHTSEEING / SHOPPING
Positano</b>
Because a piece of our luggage had been lost (see “flights” above) and my DH was without a change of clothes, we got to know some of the shops in Positano. Just to preface, we aren’t heavy shoppers while on vacation because we pack light and don’t want to overspend. It turns out Positano was the worst of our three destinations to be without clothing. My underwear, a slip, and a belt also happened to be in his bag and, after asking in the shops, I found out that we would have to leave Positano just to be able to replace them. LOL. Most of the shops are exactly as you might expect – very expensive and somewhat over-the-top. We managed to find a clothing shop next to Bar Mulino Verde where the owner was very helpful. She showed us to a sale rack of linen pants and even ironed them for my DH once we had purchased them. I was able to purchase a lovely beaded belt at La Sirenetta (also located near Bar Mulino Verde) for E20. Strangely, La Sirenetta also offers internet usage at a decent rate.

<b>Capri</b>
We decided to take a short day trip to Capri on our second day in Positano. I had read many mixed opinions about this, so I think we were somewhat prepared for what the day would hold. It was indeed rushed, but still rewarding. With our Swedish friends accompanying us, we took a mid-morning ferry from Positano to Capri (E25/each). The ride was spectacular and worth the price of admission alone. Once on Capri, we wandered through Capri Town and stopped for a quick, but pricey gelato. We stopped into Gucci (merely for kicks) and discovered that for the low price of E50, one can proudly own a set of G-shaped ice cube trays (http://www.gucci.com/us/product-shot...3200_1000.html). They are even available in white. =) So, perhaps needless to say, we did not really fit into the standard clientele these shops see. It was fun to pretend for awhile, though.

We next decided to skip the Blue Grotto and opted for the Monte Solaro chair lift. We both adored it! From Capri Town, we took a wild bus ride to Anacapri. We climbed much higher and the roads seemed twistier than those from Sorrento to Positano. Once in Anacapri, the chair lift was relaxing and peaceful. This was an absolute highlight of our trip. The views during the ride, as well as from Monte Solaro, were jaw-dropping. Even from that high, we could see straight through the blue water below.

<b>Ravello</b>
On our final day in Positano, we chose to leave early again on the ferry to Amalfi. Once there, we walked to the piazza near the marina to catch the SITA bus to Ravello. This bus ride turned out to be the craziest yet, climbing and twisting while stopping along the way. For two people from the flat Midwest, it was hard not to be dazzled by these bus rides, even if mildly frightened by them. Just to note: visitors to Ravello should be sure to double check the bus schedule when you arrive. We had a different schedule than that which was posted… and ours came from the TI in Positano.

After arriving in Ravello, we headed straight to the Villa Cimbrone (E5/person). It was a bit of a walk to get there, but the gardens were magnificent! In addition to the biggest hydrangeas I have ever seen, I was amazed by many plants/flowers that were completely new to me. As we enjoyed the peacefulness of the villa, we could already tell Ravello was going to be a far cry from Capri. We thoroughly enjoyed the Infinity Balcony, as well – again, another highlight for us.

After lunch at Cumpa Cosimo (see “Restaurants” above), we next visited the Villa Rufolo. We were a bit tight on time, so I’m not sure we were able to get a complete feel for it. If we return, I will consider staying in Ravello just to see a concert at Villa Rufolo. The stage was set up in front of a magnificent view and I couldn’t even begin to imagine how magical a performance there would be. If I were to return just to wander the gardens, however, I think I would visit Rufolo before Cimbrone because it was almost a let down. I might be overanalyzing things, though. ;)

Excellent report! Though I'm sorry you had such a time at the Giorgione - we stayed there in 2002 and were quite impressed, they even warned and accommodated us during a train strike in which we heard horror stories about other travelers finding accommodations.

We had room 20__??? I think it was 208 but I can't guarantee that. Nicely furnished, bathroom with a tub big/long enough to soak in, chocolates on the pillow, bottle of Spumante for our honeymoon... Sorry to hear you didn't enjoy your stay as much.

Thanks for the restaurant review, will definitely use your cichetti reviews for our trip in October! Trav

What a WONDERFUL trip report!!! I am so glad you did not have problems with motion sickness :-) I am definitely getting some of those bands before we return.

Also glad to hear you liked Da Costantino. We didn't have nearly the wait to leave but perhaps that was b/c mid-May is not peak season and there were not that many people there.

Anyway, I'm really enjoying your trip report and I am so glad you guys had a good trip! I promise to try to finish mine eventually as well ;-)

Hi trav - Thank you for your comments. I had actually read about your positive experience with the Giorgione before booking with them. I think it must depend on the room you get and how the weather is behaving. Venice was so unusually hot and humid that I'm sure we were under abnormal conditions. Oh, well... better luck next time!

TexasAggie -- Thank you again for your in-depth report. Your input was extremely helpful to us. Hope you had a good first anniversary, too! Positano is certainly not a bad way to celebrate, eh? ;)

hlocke1, boy, you are quite the arteeest!!! Love your photos, you have captured the essence and beauty.

Report is great and informative too. Keep it up and thanks.

Heather, I finally checked out your pictures. WOW!! Now I want to go to Burano. What kind of camera were you using? Your photos are wonderful

Hlocke1, what type of camera did you use? Your pictures are beautiful!

Hlocke1, Great photos! We too loved Albergo California-our room and bathroom were HUGE and what a view!