Istanbul and a Drive from Ephesus through Kas to Antalya
Jun 1st, 2010, 08:47 AM
#1
Original Poster
Istanbul and a Drive from Ephesus through Kas to Antalya
We returned late last week from a two week visit to Turkey taking in Istanbul and the southwest coast. Many people here helped with our planning -- others provided help unknowingly through their trip reports. I would particularly like to thank Michel_Paris, mr go, thin, ekscrunchy, Michael, and of course otherchelebi. I won’t be providing a narrative, but hope my comments on various aspects of the trip may prove helpful to others.
Istanbul has vaulted onto our favorite cities list. It is beautifully sited on the water -- sometimes reminded me a bit of San Francisco. The sightseeing is first rate. There is a bustling street life and much dining al fresco on some very good food. Most of all, we found the people friendly, welcoming and helpful. (The only exceptions being one greedy cab driver and a fussbudget manuscript dealer -- they just added some color.)
Turkish Air -- I usually skip the airline sections of people’s reports thinking they are all basically the same -- and awful. (I mean the airlines, not the reports.) Turkish Air however was a pleasant exception. We flew a Boeing 777-300 from New York direct to Istanbul. Service was very attentive, the food was actually quite good for an airline, but the seating, even in economy, was the real standout. There was plenty of legroom, and the seats reclined so that the seat slid forward slightly as the back came down. This was quite comfortable and for the first time I actually caught some sleep on an eastbound transatlantic flight. Business class looked even better, with individual booths arranged on the diagonal.
Hotels -- Istanbul
We split our visit between the old city for the first four nights, when we stayed at the Turing AyaSofya Konalari and the final two nights, after our return from the coast, at the Marmara Istanbul on Taksim Square.
The Turing AyaSofya Konalari, formerly known as AyaSofya Pansiyonlari, is a series of restored Ottoman houses across the street from the Aya Sofya. It shares its restaurant with the Konuk Evi, with which it is affiliated. The lobby, such as it is, is across from the restaurant. You get a key to one of the houses which also opens your room. Nice, private set up. The rooms are a bit small, and our bath was very small, but the location is great. We had a wonderful view of the domes of Aya Sofya. I liked this place, though I have to confess that after the first morning dealing with the tiny bathroom I swore I’d never again stay at a small charming hotel.
If I keep to that vow, I’ll be staying at places like the Marmara Istanbul. This is a sleek hotel, pretty up to date. Reception is reached by a pair of escalators from street level. Taksim Square is a very busy area of Beyoglu, at the head of bustling Istiklal Caddesi.
Splitting ones stay between two quarters is often recommended to first time visitors and it worked well for us. Were we to return, we would base ourselves in Beyoglu or perhaps on the Bosphorus. It is easy enough to visit the old quarter by taxi or public transit, and it really is a lively, vital part of the city, full of restaurants, taverns, cafes and shops.
The Food
We didn’t eat at any of the more famous restaurants, unless the Refic Meyhane qualifies, but we did enjoy nearly every meal at every location. What really stood out, for me, was the quality of the ingredients. The flavors of a simple salad of tomatoes, cucumbers and onion, dressed with olive oil and lemon juice were so vibrant, we gorged ourselves. Of the mezes we particularly enjoyed the marinated anchovies, the marinated sea bass, the various eggplant concoctions and the chili pepper salads. Deep fried mussels were delicious. The grilled fish dishes were superb. I ate a little more red meat than my doctor would have liked and enjoyed every bite. I’m starting to miss olives at breakfast.
Next up -- the city sights.
Istanbul has vaulted onto our favorite cities list. It is beautifully sited on the water -- sometimes reminded me a bit of San Francisco. The sightseeing is first rate. There is a bustling street life and much dining al fresco on some very good food. Most of all, we found the people friendly, welcoming and helpful. (The only exceptions being one greedy cab driver and a fussbudget manuscript dealer -- they just added some color.)
Turkish Air -- I usually skip the airline sections of people’s reports thinking they are all basically the same -- and awful. (I mean the airlines, not the reports.) Turkish Air however was a pleasant exception. We flew a Boeing 777-300 from New York direct to Istanbul. Service was very attentive, the food was actually quite good for an airline, but the seating, even in economy, was the real standout. There was plenty of legroom, and the seats reclined so that the seat slid forward slightly as the back came down. This was quite comfortable and for the first time I actually caught some sleep on an eastbound transatlantic flight. Business class looked even better, with individual booths arranged on the diagonal.
Hotels -- Istanbul
We split our visit between the old city for the first four nights, when we stayed at the Turing AyaSofya Konalari and the final two nights, after our return from the coast, at the Marmara Istanbul on Taksim Square.
The Turing AyaSofya Konalari, formerly known as AyaSofya Pansiyonlari, is a series of restored Ottoman houses across the street from the Aya Sofya. It shares its restaurant with the Konuk Evi, with which it is affiliated. The lobby, such as it is, is across from the restaurant. You get a key to one of the houses which also opens your room. Nice, private set up. The rooms are a bit small, and our bath was very small, but the location is great. We had a wonderful view of the domes of Aya Sofya. I liked this place, though I have to confess that after the first morning dealing with the tiny bathroom I swore I’d never again stay at a small charming hotel.
If I keep to that vow, I’ll be staying at places like the Marmara Istanbul. This is a sleek hotel, pretty up to date. Reception is reached by a pair of escalators from street level. Taksim Square is a very busy area of Beyoglu, at the head of bustling Istiklal Caddesi.
Splitting ones stay between two quarters is often recommended to first time visitors and it worked well for us. Were we to return, we would base ourselves in Beyoglu or perhaps on the Bosphorus. It is easy enough to visit the old quarter by taxi or public transit, and it really is a lively, vital part of the city, full of restaurants, taverns, cafes and shops.
The Food
We didn’t eat at any of the more famous restaurants, unless the Refic Meyhane qualifies, but we did enjoy nearly every meal at every location. What really stood out, for me, was the quality of the ingredients. The flavors of a simple salad of tomatoes, cucumbers and onion, dressed with olive oil and lemon juice were so vibrant, we gorged ourselves. Of the mezes we particularly enjoyed the marinated anchovies, the marinated sea bass, the various eggplant concoctions and the chili pepper salads. Deep fried mussels were delicious. The grilled fish dishes were superb. I ate a little more red meat than my doctor would have liked and enjoyed every bite. I’m starting to miss olives at breakfast.
Next up -- the city sights.
Jun 1st, 2010, 04:38 PM
#3
Original Poster
The Sights -- Istanbul
Aya Sofya -- nothing really prepares you for this. The sense of space under the dome is stunning. Climb to the gallery to get a close view of the mosaics.
Blue Mosque -- another astonishing space with beautiful tile work. Noticed many western women inside without kerchiefs (they put them on to enter, then immediately removed them) -- struck me as rude and disrespectful.
Topkapi -- gaped at the emeralds, diamonds and other precious stones in the Treasury. Admired the architecture of the Harem and other buildings.
Grand Bazaar -- merchants not as annoying as I had feared. One approached us and asked if he could pose just one question. We said sure. He said, “My question is, can I show you two items?” We laughed. Old Book Bazaar -- not much here of interest, but two stores were selling beautiful illustrated manuscript pages. I admired them but had no idea of what a fair price might be, so didn’t buy. Spice Market -- bought some hot red pepper kind of like was is sold in the US as Aleppo pepper, some saffron, and a couple of spice mixes for kofte and kabobs.
Chora Church -- mosaics as magnificent as promised. Cab drivers as avaricious as advertised. Ours took us the long way around and cost me an extra $15 (He also tried some quick-change tricks, but failed). However, I did get a good view of the walls of the ancient city, including one section where I think I made out the three lines of defense.
Archaeological Museum -- excellent collection of ancient sculpture from various regions with useful and interesting information on the various schools.
Tile Kiosk -- across from the museum, has a beautiful exhibit of tile work from different regions.
The Cisterns -- cool, fun, duck in.
Mosaic Museum -- a sleeper, not what you might expect. What you see is the enormous mosaic floor of Justinian’s Palace. Lovers of classical mosaic art or Roman history should not miss this. It is in the Arasta Bazaar, which itself has shops with what looked to me to be higher quality merchandize than most.
Galata Tower -- for a stunning view over the city. Be warned that people take their time appreciating it.
Military Museum -- Perhaps not of interest to everyone, but with a large collection from the bronze age through medieval (our main interest here) to modern weaponry. You can see a canon believed to have been used in the conquest of Constantinople, several swords of Suleyman the Magnificent, and a large segment of the chain used to close the Golden Horn. Also many gruesome battle scenes and endless portraits of the Sultans. There was a room devoted to telling the Turkish side -- and only the Turkish side -- of the Armenian question. Also a World War One gallery which devoted much space to the victory at Gallipoli, but I saw nothing on the Arab revolt or the final defeat.
Galata Bridge -- hundreds of anglers, ferries and pleasure boats coming to and fro, hawkers grilling mackerel fillets for sandwiches -- truly a sight.
Bosporus Cruise -- This is a really delightful day. Cruise to a fishing village, hike to a Roman fortress with a view of the Black Sea, enjoy a grilled fish lunch (and try those deep fried mussels) while taking in palaces, castles, grand estates and waterfront towns.
Next -- Ephesus
Aya Sofya -- nothing really prepares you for this. The sense of space under the dome is stunning. Climb to the gallery to get a close view of the mosaics.
Blue Mosque -- another astonishing space with beautiful tile work. Noticed many western women inside without kerchiefs (they put them on to enter, then immediately removed them) -- struck me as rude and disrespectful.
Topkapi -- gaped at the emeralds, diamonds and other precious stones in the Treasury. Admired the architecture of the Harem and other buildings.
Grand Bazaar -- merchants not as annoying as I had feared. One approached us and asked if he could pose just one question. We said sure. He said, “My question is, can I show you two items?” We laughed. Old Book Bazaar -- not much here of interest, but two stores were selling beautiful illustrated manuscript pages. I admired them but had no idea of what a fair price might be, so didn’t buy. Spice Market -- bought some hot red pepper kind of like was is sold in the US as Aleppo pepper, some saffron, and a couple of spice mixes for kofte and kabobs.
Chora Church -- mosaics as magnificent as promised. Cab drivers as avaricious as advertised. Ours took us the long way around and cost me an extra $15 (He also tried some quick-change tricks, but failed). However, I did get a good view of the walls of the ancient city, including one section where I think I made out the three lines of defense.
Archaeological Museum -- excellent collection of ancient sculpture from various regions with useful and interesting information on the various schools.
Tile Kiosk -- across from the museum, has a beautiful exhibit of tile work from different regions.
The Cisterns -- cool, fun, duck in.
Mosaic Museum -- a sleeper, not what you might expect. What you see is the enormous mosaic floor of Justinian’s Palace. Lovers of classical mosaic art or Roman history should not miss this. It is in the Arasta Bazaar, which itself has shops with what looked to me to be higher quality merchandize than most.
Galata Tower -- for a stunning view over the city. Be warned that people take their time appreciating it.
Military Museum -- Perhaps not of interest to everyone, but with a large collection from the bronze age through medieval (our main interest here) to modern weaponry. You can see a canon believed to have been used in the conquest of Constantinople, several swords of Suleyman the Magnificent, and a large segment of the chain used to close the Golden Horn. Also many gruesome battle scenes and endless portraits of the Sultans. There was a room devoted to telling the Turkish side -- and only the Turkish side -- of the Armenian question. Also a World War One gallery which devoted much space to the victory at Gallipoli, but I saw nothing on the Arab revolt or the final defeat.
Galata Bridge -- hundreds of anglers, ferries and pleasure boats coming to and fro, hawkers grilling mackerel fillets for sandwiches -- truly a sight.
Bosporus Cruise -- This is a really delightful day. Cruise to a fishing village, hike to a Roman fortress with a view of the Black Sea, enjoy a grilled fish lunch (and try those deep fried mussels) while taking in palaces, castles, grand estates and waterfront towns.
Next -- Ephesus
Jun 2nd, 2010, 07:41 AM
#6
Original Poster
Thanks for the comments -- much more to come.
Ephesus/Sirince
We took an early flight on Turkish Air from Istanbul down to Izmir. We had reserved a vehicle through Europcar. I had requested a diesel, but drew a Fiat Linea running on gasoline. The car was fine if a bit underpowered and I found the front wheel drive handling a little different. We spent about 300 TL on gas getting from Izmir to Antalya.
Hotel -- Nisanyan Evleri in Sirince. This is what a charming small hotel is supposed to be. It is set above the scenic village of Sirince, about a ten minute drive up from Selcuk, where Ephesus is located. We checked in and set off for lunch and Ephesus. The former was an adequate if not exceptional chicken doner. The latter was a truly remarkable Roman city.
Ephesus -- There is the library of course, and the theater, and I thought the Temple to Hadrian rather beautiful. The Terraced Houses are the true gem, for it is here that you get a glimpse of the mosaics and frescoes and the styes of the houses that people actually lived in. I overheard some guides advising people not to pay the extra charge to get in. Very bad advice.
We did not use a guide, but I overheard some that seemed well-informed, and quite a few others who if not especially learned about Ephesus could at least spin a good yarn.
After a few hours on site we drove to Meryemana, the house where the Virgin Mary is supposed to have spent her last days. It is quiet and serene up there, and although we are not religious people we found the obvious devotion of the pilgrims touching. You may decide for yourself whether you think the evidence pointing to Mary’s residence is convincing. The drive down offers a spectacular view of the sea and nearby islands.
Our last stop of the day was St. John’s Basilica. Although little is left is was surprisingly interesting and boasts some fine frescoes. Unfortunately the fortress on the hill behind the basilica, where John is thought to have written his gospel, is closed for renovations.
We returned to our hotel for dinner -- a delicious lamb stew, washed down with a nice mid-priced Turkish red.
Next -- Didyma, Miletus and Priene
Ephesus/Sirince
We took an early flight on Turkish Air from Istanbul down to Izmir. We had reserved a vehicle through Europcar. I had requested a diesel, but drew a Fiat Linea running on gasoline. The car was fine if a bit underpowered and I found the front wheel drive handling a little different. We spent about 300 TL on gas getting from Izmir to Antalya.
Hotel -- Nisanyan Evleri in Sirince. This is what a charming small hotel is supposed to be. It is set above the scenic village of Sirince, about a ten minute drive up from Selcuk, where Ephesus is located. We checked in and set off for lunch and Ephesus. The former was an adequate if not exceptional chicken doner. The latter was a truly remarkable Roman city.
Ephesus -- There is the library of course, and the theater, and I thought the Temple to Hadrian rather beautiful. The Terraced Houses are the true gem, for it is here that you get a glimpse of the mosaics and frescoes and the styes of the houses that people actually lived in. I overheard some guides advising people not to pay the extra charge to get in. Very bad advice.
We did not use a guide, but I overheard some that seemed well-informed, and quite a few others who if not especially learned about Ephesus could at least spin a good yarn.
After a few hours on site we drove to Meryemana, the house where the Virgin Mary is supposed to have spent her last days. It is quiet and serene up there, and although we are not religious people we found the obvious devotion of the pilgrims touching. You may decide for yourself whether you think the evidence pointing to Mary’s residence is convincing. The drive down offers a spectacular view of the sea and nearby islands.
Our last stop of the day was St. John’s Basilica. Although little is left is was surprisingly interesting and boasts some fine frescoes. Unfortunately the fortress on the hill behind the basilica, where John is thought to have written his gospel, is closed for renovations.
We returned to our hotel for dinner -- a delicious lamb stew, washed down with a nice mid-priced Turkish red.
Next -- Didyma, Miletus and Priene
Jun 3rd, 2010, 06:24 AM
#7
Original Poster
The hotel breakfast featured creamy yoghurt drizzled with an exceptionally flavorful honey, fresh cherries and strawberries as well as the usual cheeses, olives breads, etc.
Didyma -- although this site is small, just the Sanctuary to Apollo itself, we found it the most impressive of the three because of its scale -- its about the size of the Parthenon. Of course, most of the columns are just rather tall stubs. There’s one toppled in the back, interesting because you can see how the columns were put together.
Miletus -- Features a grand theater and another sanctuary of Apollo called the Delphinion in reference to dolphins, sacred to the god, set by the water. The ruins of the baths are also impressive, and right now, studded with scarlet poppies.
Priene -- This Doric city is worth a stop if only for the Temple to Athena and the well preserved theater.
While we loved our hotel and the views from our window, we were somewhat less taken with the town of Sirince. It looks pretty perched on the hill, and the winding streets are picturesque, but it is thronged with tour bus passengers sampling the local wines (said by some not to be truly local) at the many many wine shops. The rest is given over to souvenirs and other items aimed at the tourist trade. A short stroll satisfied our curiosity. Pick a hotel, like ours, at the edge of town and with a good restaurant and you will enjoy your stay.
The next morning we drove to Aphrodisias, another great highlight of the trip. While on a smaller scale than Ephesus, it is far less crowded. It has a beautiful setting in the mountains. Visiting the museum prior to entering the city will help you visualize what it must once have been like when the sculptures and friezes within were in place. Outstanding buildings include the entry to the forecourt of the temple to Aphrodite, the stadium or circus, and the theater. You’ll often have a place completely to yourself, time to sit and enjoy it privately. It also makes for good photos without other tourists!
About an hour past Aphrodisias are the famous travertine pools of Pamukkale. We were distinctly underwhelmed. While no doubt a geologic wonder, the water that made it so famous has been drained away by the infrastructure built to serve the people who come to see it. As a result, only a few of the pools are flowing. The place seems to be going through hard times with many vacant storefronts and empty restaurants -- some employees even jumped out into the road to try to attract business.
Hierapolis has some interesting tombs in the northern necropolis, but simply cannot compare to the more extensive ruins you will have already visited. Still it is worth the walk.
Our hotel, the Grand Sevgi, is recommended in Fodor’s, but it is a disaster. It was a huge place but nearly empty. Only a few tour group parties showed up around dinner time. The rooms are well past their prime, painted yellow with flesh-tone trim, and featuring asymmetrical mirrors and headboards that must have seems oh-so-with-it in their day. The hotel staff seems to spend most of their time rousting the swallows from their nesting places in the balconies surrounding the unused pool.
We did have a good dinner at the Unal Restaurant on the village square, and if you visit Pamukkale I hope you will too.
We left as early as possible the next morning, and drove through splendid mountain scenery to reach the coast. The books I have didn’t make much of these mountain ranges, but we found them very dramatic. There was still snow on the high peaks. After about two and one half hours of very good, winding roads, we caught a glimpse of the sea and were soon in Fethiye.
Next -- Fethiye, Kas and Antalya
Didyma -- although this site is small, just the Sanctuary to Apollo itself, we found it the most impressive of the three because of its scale -- its about the size of the Parthenon. Of course, most of the columns are just rather tall stubs. There’s one toppled in the back, interesting because you can see how the columns were put together.
Miletus -- Features a grand theater and another sanctuary of Apollo called the Delphinion in reference to dolphins, sacred to the god, set by the water. The ruins of the baths are also impressive, and right now, studded with scarlet poppies.
Priene -- This Doric city is worth a stop if only for the Temple to Athena and the well preserved theater.
While we loved our hotel and the views from our window, we were somewhat less taken with the town of Sirince. It looks pretty perched on the hill, and the winding streets are picturesque, but it is thronged with tour bus passengers sampling the local wines (said by some not to be truly local) at the many many wine shops. The rest is given over to souvenirs and other items aimed at the tourist trade. A short stroll satisfied our curiosity. Pick a hotel, like ours, at the edge of town and with a good restaurant and you will enjoy your stay.
The next morning we drove to Aphrodisias, another great highlight of the trip. While on a smaller scale than Ephesus, it is far less crowded. It has a beautiful setting in the mountains. Visiting the museum prior to entering the city will help you visualize what it must once have been like when the sculptures and friezes within were in place. Outstanding buildings include the entry to the forecourt of the temple to Aphrodite, the stadium or circus, and the theater. You’ll often have a place completely to yourself, time to sit and enjoy it privately. It also makes for good photos without other tourists!
About an hour past Aphrodisias are the famous travertine pools of Pamukkale. We were distinctly underwhelmed. While no doubt a geologic wonder, the water that made it so famous has been drained away by the infrastructure built to serve the people who come to see it. As a result, only a few of the pools are flowing. The place seems to be going through hard times with many vacant storefronts and empty restaurants -- some employees even jumped out into the road to try to attract business.
Hierapolis has some interesting tombs in the northern necropolis, but simply cannot compare to the more extensive ruins you will have already visited. Still it is worth the walk.
Our hotel, the Grand Sevgi, is recommended in Fodor’s, but it is a disaster. It was a huge place but nearly empty. Only a few tour group parties showed up around dinner time. The rooms are well past their prime, painted yellow with flesh-tone trim, and featuring asymmetrical mirrors and headboards that must have seems oh-so-with-it in their day. The hotel staff seems to spend most of their time rousting the swallows from their nesting places in the balconies surrounding the unused pool.
We did have a good dinner at the Unal Restaurant on the village square, and if you visit Pamukkale I hope you will too.
We left as early as possible the next morning, and drove through splendid mountain scenery to reach the coast. The books I have didn’t make much of these mountain ranges, but we found them very dramatic. There was still snow on the high peaks. After about two and one half hours of very good, winding roads, we caught a glimpse of the sea and were soon in Fethiye.
Next -- Fethiye, Kas and Antalya
Jun 4th, 2010, 07:58 AM
#10
Original Poster
It was at this point that our plans fell apart. Juggling our schedule, we had opted for Aphrodisias over an extra day in Fethiye to take a boat tour of the twelve islands. That reduced Fethiye, a rather large resort town, to an overnight. We stayed at the Ece Saray, a very comfortable hotel with a wonderful view over the harbor to the mountains. We ate at a little place near the fish market. You buy your fish and they cook it for you for 5TL. They offer a full range of mezes and sell raki, beer and wine. Driving can be a little confusing in Fethiye -- especially if you are using a map printed UPSIDE DOWN in an edition of Lonely Planet.
On the drive to Kas we stopped at Letoon, Xanthus and Patara, three ancient Lycian cities. The first, dedicated to Leto has the remains of three temples and a small mosaic. Xanthus is much larger, boasting several unusual tombs and a large mosaic floor. The guidebook says to allot three hours to it, but I don’t see how, unless you’re staggering around in circles, drunk. Forty-five minutes is more like it. The last site, Patara, birthplace of St Nicholas is extensive but only small sections have been excavated. There is a beautiful sandy beach a little ways down the road.
Kas is a much smaller town than Fethiye. The setting on a wide bay with the Greek island Kastellorizon in the distance is idyllic. Winding streets climb the hill in town. The major activities on offer are sea kayaking, hiking, para-gliding etc, but most people seemed to just enjoy themselves on the little beach club platforms set across the road from the hotels. We stayed at the Medusa, one of many hotels east of the harbor. Kas seems to attract a fashionable crowd, but they welcomed us anyway.
We had come for the sea kayaking, but it was not to be. My wife had developed a cough and didn’t feel up to it, and my son came down with a nasty sore throat which developed into a chest cold and kept him up all night. We made the best of it, taking a small boat across the bay to a beach club for the day, but it was still a little disappointing.
We ate at Bahce and Bahce Balik, two restaurants across the street from one another, both run by the same family, one offering meats, the other fish, with varying mezes. The marinated sea bass here was exceptional, served in a lemon-olive oil dressing studded with capers. Both highly recommended.
We enjoyed another drive through the mountains along the coast to Antalya, where we spent our last night before returning to Istanbul. This is a very large city, and we only stayed there for convenient access to the airport the next morning. We dropped off our rental car -- a wonderful feeling to be done with driving -- and took the trolley into the old town to look around a bit. It’s a pretty quarter down by the harbor offering a maze of narrow streets lined with shops aimed us and large tour groups which filled the place. There are a couple of recommended hotels in the area, but we stayed at the Sheraton far from the center, after an inspection of the map convinced me that driving to the old town would be folly.
The next morning we visited the museum, which has an impressive and superbly displayed sculpture collection from the nearby site of Perge. They are probably here only through an accident of history; Perge has been excavated only recently. Had it been explored a century or two earlier, I’d imagine these pieces would have been carted off to New York, London or Berlin. Nice to see them at home.
We returned to Istanbul, and spent our last two days based in the Beyoglu on busy Taksim Square. Our hotel had a beautiful view of the Bosporus and over the Golden Horn to the old city. As I said earlier, this is the part of town I’d return too if I am lucky enough to revisit Istanbul.
On the drive to Kas we stopped at Letoon, Xanthus and Patara, three ancient Lycian cities. The first, dedicated to Leto has the remains of three temples and a small mosaic. Xanthus is much larger, boasting several unusual tombs and a large mosaic floor. The guidebook says to allot three hours to it, but I don’t see how, unless you’re staggering around in circles, drunk. Forty-five minutes is more like it. The last site, Patara, birthplace of St Nicholas is extensive but only small sections have been excavated. There is a beautiful sandy beach a little ways down the road.
Kas is a much smaller town than Fethiye. The setting on a wide bay with the Greek island Kastellorizon in the distance is idyllic. Winding streets climb the hill in town. The major activities on offer are sea kayaking, hiking, para-gliding etc, but most people seemed to just enjoy themselves on the little beach club platforms set across the road from the hotels. We stayed at the Medusa, one of many hotels east of the harbor. Kas seems to attract a fashionable crowd, but they welcomed us anyway.
We had come for the sea kayaking, but it was not to be. My wife had developed a cough and didn’t feel up to it, and my son came down with a nasty sore throat which developed into a chest cold and kept him up all night. We made the best of it, taking a small boat across the bay to a beach club for the day, but it was still a little disappointing.
We ate at Bahce and Bahce Balik, two restaurants across the street from one another, both run by the same family, one offering meats, the other fish, with varying mezes. The marinated sea bass here was exceptional, served in a lemon-olive oil dressing studded with capers. Both highly recommended.
We enjoyed another drive through the mountains along the coast to Antalya, where we spent our last night before returning to Istanbul. This is a very large city, and we only stayed there for convenient access to the airport the next morning. We dropped off our rental car -- a wonderful feeling to be done with driving -- and took the trolley into the old town to look around a bit. It’s a pretty quarter down by the harbor offering a maze of narrow streets lined with shops aimed us and large tour groups which filled the place. There are a couple of recommended hotels in the area, but we stayed at the Sheraton far from the center, after an inspection of the map convinced me that driving to the old town would be folly.
The next morning we visited the museum, which has an impressive and superbly displayed sculpture collection from the nearby site of Perge. They are probably here only through an accident of history; Perge has been excavated only recently. Had it been explored a century or two earlier, I’d imagine these pieces would have been carted off to New York, London or Berlin. Nice to see them at home.
We returned to Istanbul, and spent our last two days based in the Beyoglu on busy Taksim Square. Our hotel had a beautiful view of the Bosporus and over the Golden Horn to the old city. As I said earlier, this is the part of town I’d return too if I am lucky enough to revisit Istanbul.
Jun 12th, 2010, 11:30 AM
#11
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Fra...a litle late on chiming on, just saw your post today....and you're the first poster I have ever read who had taken in the Military Museum. I've been touting it for a long time herein...we particularly enjoyed the exhibits (being a history fan) and the fun Janissary show. It's colorful, historic and certainly worth a look see by tourists..good photo ops. Thanks for mentioning the museum, as most visitors miss out on it or don't care to see it.(The showtimes are in mid-afternoon...Lonely Planet can tell you).
stu t.
stu t.
Jun 15th, 2010, 07:27 AM
#13
Original Poster
Thanks for reading -- I didn't know people were still following this!
tower -- Unfortunately the Janissary show was not offered the day we visited. I think they were touring. Naturally, we had timed our visit to see it . . .
Ian -- if you have any questions I'll be glad to try and answer them, though of course otherchelebi is the real expert.
tower -- Unfortunately the Janissary show was not offered the day we visited. I think they were touring. Naturally, we had timed our visit to see it . . .
Ian -- if you have any questions I'll be glad to try and answer them, though of course otherchelebi is the real expert.
Jun 15th, 2010, 06:05 PM
#16
Fra_Diavolo
Still following it? That is the value of Trip Reports. Months - even years later - people are still reading your report & getting great travel info from it. Couple that with general traveler's responses & local experts & that is what makes Fodors such an amazing travel resource.
Ian
Still following it? That is the value of Trip Reports. Months - even years later - people are still reading your report & getting great travel info from it. Couple that with general traveler's responses & local experts & that is what makes Fodors such an amazing travel resource.
Ian
Jun 15th, 2010, 10:01 PM
#17
Join Date: Apr 2003
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"Xanthus is much larger, boasting several unusual tombs and a large mosaic floor. The guidebook says to allot three hours to it, but I don’t see how, unless you’re staggering around in circles, drunk"
Depends whether you've got a proper guide book, or rely on the gibberish provided at the sites.
Xanthos is VERY extensive. The bit opposite the ticket office takes about 45 mins: seeing the post-classical remains elsewhere, and the tombs on the heights overlooking the enclosure with the "obelisk" monument takes at least three hours.
The blunt truth about Lycia, though, is that its sites, though immense and often picturesque, are nowhere nearly as interesting as their history. And the version of that history presented both at the sites and at museums like Fethiye's (easy to find and inexcusable to miss) is scant, tendentious, often inaccurate and outdated.
Since Lycia was almost THE key model used by America's Founders in working out the mechanics of government (Magna Carta etc was key to the principles of law, but not to the practicalities of Continental government), US tourists really ought to research the place fully beforehand to get the most out of it. Surprisingly easy on the Web - though buying a decent guidebook locally, or from a good travelbookshop, helps too.
Depends whether you've got a proper guide book, or rely on the gibberish provided at the sites.
Xanthos is VERY extensive. The bit opposite the ticket office takes about 45 mins: seeing the post-classical remains elsewhere, and the tombs on the heights overlooking the enclosure with the "obelisk" monument takes at least three hours.
The blunt truth about Lycia, though, is that its sites, though immense and often picturesque, are nowhere nearly as interesting as their history. And the version of that history presented both at the sites and at museums like Fethiye's (easy to find and inexcusable to miss) is scant, tendentious, often inaccurate and outdated.
Since Lycia was almost THE key model used by America's Founders in working out the mechanics of government (Magna Carta etc was key to the principles of law, but not to the practicalities of Continental government), US tourists really ought to research the place fully beforehand to get the most out of it. Surprisingly easy on the Web - though buying a decent guidebook locally, or from a good travelbookshop, helps too.
Jun 17th, 2010, 12:49 PM
#19
Join Date: Jul 2005
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"too many ruins in too few days"
Yes, I got a bit "ruined" on ruins myself.
I've enjoyed reading your report; it's well-written and well-organized. I'm ashamed that several months after visiting Turkey all I have is notes and a rambling narrative.
The Lycian tombs were among my favorite sights in Turkey, but apparently I need to do more research after reading Flanner's post.
Thanks for posting your report.
Yes, I got a bit "ruined" on ruins myself.
I've enjoyed reading your report; it's well-written and well-organized. I'm ashamed that several months after visiting Turkey all I have is notes and a rambling narrative.
The Lycian tombs were among my favorite sights in Turkey, but apparently I need to do more research after reading Flanner's post.
Thanks for posting your report.
