edhodge

When we lost a day of our Ireland vacation last Sept. because of Hurricane Isabel, we asked for round trip international vouchers as compensation. Even though USAirways didn't have to provide that compensation, they came through and this trip was the fabulous result.

We left Northwest Arkansas on Friday, Sept. 10th and arrived Shannon on Sat. We had booked a car through Irish Car Rentals but probably because we had great tailwinds and arrived early, they had no cars for us. They refunded our money and booked us to Dan Dooley. (Well, turns out they shorted us on the refund but I didn't find that out until today.) I love Dan Dooley anyway so who cares that the car was a little more (about 60 euro). Drove to Cliffs of Moher. It was raining but hey, it is Ireland- it is supposed to rain. The wind was howling. I had read about the little boys using their jackets as parachutes, opening them to the wind and letting it move them backwards. Last year at the Cliffs, I couldn't figure that out. This year- easy to understand. Turns out that we caught the back end of Hurricane Frances after she moved across the Atlantic and she must have loved Ireland because she really hung around.

Lunch in Ballyvaughan at Monks. Seafood chowder was just as great as remembered- the Burren was amazing in the rain. The wind was creating huge splashes of water against the cliffs all along the shoreline.

Checked in to Dalys House in Doolin and napped for a an hour or so. Walked over to McGanns (saw our first rainbow of the trip- don't trust those rainbows! They are sneaky. They make you think the rain is finished.) Halfway there, it poured on us. hrug: We were sitting quietly drinking our pints when we encountered Alan. Alan introduced himself like this,"I am 10 days into a bender and am mad as a hatter". His wife had gone to Brazil to pray for him and he decided to cut loose while she was gone. He discovered that someone had painted his nails at some point, thankfully with clear varnish. Wish someone had washed the stain off of his shirt that I strongly suspect was puke.
He told us that he is an actor and will have a starring role in an upcoming film, "Bloom". Color me skeptical. I think he is probably a barfly who sponges as many drinks as he can from tourists. The band was good but we couldn't really hear them.

Grabbed a ride to O'Connors. Loved this place. When we walked in, there was a family in one corner, playing accordion and pipe, and lots of people in the pub were singing. Lovely, just lovely. Had to leave because a sweet man had hands that were too friendly.

Sunday, off into the rain...

edhodge

The plan was to drive down the coast to Loop Head and then take the ferry over for a final destination of Castlegregory. Didn't make Loop Head because we had gale force winds and torrential rains instead. We did make Kilkee. Local delicacy there is Winkles and Dillish, sold from carts along the shore front. Couldn't make myself try them since they are sea snails and seaweed, steamed and salted, sold in small bags. Loved the Loop Drive, in our opinion this rivals the Cliffs of Moher. You can walk right out to the edge (if you are eaten up with the dumbass!) There are multiple islands directly off shore, covered with soft green grass.

Took the ferry and made our way to The Shores B&B. Wow, this place is so elegant and Annette is so nice! She had to skip her run that night because (excuse me if I have already mentioned this), it was pouring and blowing like a mad dog. We were given a bedroom with a front view and we could barely see the beach. The waves were amazing with flume blowing off.

Took off for Tomasins for dinner and decided to take a short jog down to Gowlane Strand. It is a narrow road. We met a van, tried to go around each other. They went off one side and we went off the other. They were able to back off. Turns out that rental cars in Ireland have a small tab on the bumper that can be pulled off. Get in the trunk. Next to the jack, there is a small hook with a screw on the other end. All you need to get out of a ditch is this- that screw hook, a rope and a vehicle (like a van) that can pull you out, oh and uh people that know how to do all that and happen to have a rope. Thanks heaven for windsurfers. We had to back up that entire road which is very challenging on a narrow road, with the steering wheel on the wrong side of the car, in drenching rain with your wife laughing hysterically in the other seat.

Tomasins was lovely, by the way. Best meal we had in Ireland and even with wine, about 60 euros.

edhodge

Forgot to warn you that this was going to be super long. Monday- Drove over Conors Pass. One great thing about lots of rain is that it equals lots of waterfalls. On into Dingle and off to Slea Head drive. Finally bought the lamp from Louis Mulcahy Pottery that I have been craving for a year. Still raining but easing off a little bit.

Checked into Kil Bhreach House. Very disappointed in this B&B. There is a cattle guard on the driveway and with lots of traffic, that equals lots of noise. Combine that with the wind rattling the doors in the place, it was much less than peaceful. Never saw the owner.

I just hit the wall. Off to bed and more tomorrow.

Diane

Angela

Thanks for posting - I'm really enjoying your report. You're a natural story teller!

Angela

allisonm

Sorry you had all the rain, also sorry you didn't like the Dingle B&B since we are booked there for 2 nights coming up! As long as it was clean and comfortable, I can live with a little noise! (Please say it was clean and comfy!) More, please!

edhodge

Cill Bhreac was very clean. If I had to choose a house in Dingle again, I would go back to Duinin House- much more comfortable and the hostess there is so sweet.

We had dinner at the Forge and it was mediocre, at best. We then made our way to several pubs, ending up at our favorite, An Droichead Beag. Actually had Irish ask me if I spoke the Irish- didn't know that the kids off summer from uni don't get paid for their summer jobs until the end of summer. Guess it keeps them from skipping halfway through. Met the most wonderful young man who was thrilled with his summer pay, just received that day. It was twice what he expected thanks to tips so he kept two whiskeys in front of him at all times. The band was great. When we left, the young Irishman chased us down the street to give me a kiss goodbye. Ah, how sweet! Did I mention I am old enough to be his mother?

Next day, off to Killarney National Park with a stop on Inch Beach. The little store there with the poem on the wall has been demolished. We got caught by a wall of rain which soaked our pants to the bone. Stopped in Killarney and bought rain pants at Quills.

Torc Waterfall was very beautiful and we walked out to the Meeting of the Waters. Everything was way out of its back from all the rain but it was gorgeous.

Made our way to Kenmare where we stayed at The Seashore Farm Guesthouse. I recommend this place very highly. The room had a small balcony overlooking their lovely patio, farmlands leading to the bay and backed by mountains. Quiet and serene and the owners are just so nice. The breakfast was exceptional, too. It is about 65 Euro pp but so worth it.

Kenmare is an easy town to get around. Walked a while, ate dinner at D'Arcys which was delicious! Hung out and watched the game at The Old Thady Quill. There was an entire family of Americans in there for a wedding, staying at the Landsdowne Arms Hotel, and man, they were so loud.

edhodge

Drove through Glengariff (wish I could have spent more time there) and off to the Beara Peninsula. This is easily the wildest, most barren and most untouched peninsula we saw in Ireland. It was stunning. When we got to the cable cars to Dursey Island, they were closed for maintenance. Dh wasn't too bothered by that because it does look scary, the car is kinda decrepit but hey, I would have gone. On our way back, we must have taken a wrong turn because we ended up on a coast road that was barely wide enough for one car and the edges were pitted and cracked away. It climbed and twisted and squeezed between huge boulders- it was a blast!

Stopped at the Gleninchiquin park, recommended by someone here (Wojazz?) and that was great. Double waterfalls over an immense rockface. We did not take the waterfall walk but did take the river walk. It was a well laid out and straight up path beside a tumbling, splashing lovely stream with hundreds of waterfalls. Very nice and well worth the time. One word of caution, we thought we would never get to the park though. The road seemed to take forever. Just have patience and follow the few signs. It is worth it.

Ate a pub dinner at the Atlantic that night. Spent the evening at Murty's (I think) and listened to trad. The band was comprised of 2 young men and an extremely talented young lady. She could sing, play the bodhran, the pipe, the whistle, the small squeezebox... everything. She had a CD for sale for the first time that night and somehow we got out of there without buying it. I am kicking myself!

Next day, off to the Mizen Peninsula. Wow, did we have rain that day?! We did stop in Crookhaven at O'Sullivans and had open face crab sandwich. Yum! A lovely English family with 3 children came in and they were so entertaining. Kids can be so funny anyway but they were just so well behaved. Also loved the pub kitty or "Puss in Boots" as one of the children called her.

We were one of only 6 people who actually ventured out to Mizen Head. The suspension bridge freaked me out because the wind was blowing so hard, literally like 60 mph. It was so incredible, though, standing out on the end with the wind and rain whipping us like stepchildren. Gives you a whole different appreciation for the lighthouse keepers and rescue boats. Coming back, I had eased up on my grip a little and saw a seal under the suspension bridge. Yeah! Obviously, no puffins or other seabirds.

We were going to stop in Bantry and check out the Bantry House but since the rain had changed my eye makeup to all over my face makeup, we went back to Kenmare. Cleaned up and headed to town for some walks to the river, check out the three statues of music, a little shopping and dinner at well, I can't remember. hrug:

Next morning, we took the recommendation of the O'Sullivans and stopped at St. Finbarr's Oratory and Gougane Barra on our way to Kinsale. The location is beautiful, nestled in a valley with a lovely lake (lots of swans) and a picturesque church. There is a churchyard with stations for prayer. I also saw something that I didn't catch the meaning but found so intriguing. There was a low stone bench with etched lines across it forming small squares. In the center point, there was a stone and people would use that to retrace the lines. Then they would walk over to a wooden cross and pound a piece of money into it. Wonder why? Don't miss the award winning toilet, either (it is thatched! ) The forest is breathtaking. Lots of running streams, waterfalls, tall trees all covered in moss- this would be a great place for a picnic.

edhodge

On our way to Kinsale, we stopped at Lisnagun Ring Fort, found it to be very interesting. Took the guided tour and the guide was so knowledgeable. Though I know a little of Irish history, it is always so much more interesting to hear about it from someone who knows so much and all the time, seeing it before your eyes. If you have the opportunity to visit, do so soon because it is going to be surrounded by a housing development very soon. As our guide put it, the Minister of Agriculture controls the land and he is a "gangster".

Kinsale is a busy little town! Quite colorful and lots of shopping, restaurants and pubs. We ate at Blue Haven in the restaurant, very up scale and the food was good, just not over the top great. We finally succumbed to dessert, after having resisted the whole trip. Wish we had known then how much we would love the ice cream.

We never did find just the right pub for us. Tried the Spaniard as it was only 1 block from our house. Just didn't get the right vibe from it, though. Probably us, not them.

Spent two nights at Sceilig House. The parking was horrible but the view from our private patio was fabulous. The only drawback was that our room was directly under the breakfast conservatory and was very loud in the morning. Don't plan on sleeping in.

The first morning, we did sleep in though and then we were served tea and scones on the patio. Did I mention the sun was out!?? What a welcome sight and the rain was almost done at that point.

Went to Charles Fort and surprised myself with how interesting it was. Of course, it looks out over the harbor and we watched the little children in their sailing lessons. It looked like they were playing Follow the Leader. Lots of sailboats and lots of sunshine- ah, wonderful.

Had "toastie sandwiches" at Bulman Pub and would have been happy to spend the entire day there. Had shopping to do and then hit some pubs in town. Tried to have dinner at Man Fridays but were booked so ended up at the Spaniard restaurant. Great meal there with great service, good wine and the food itself was outstanding.

edhodge

Last full day in Ireland. igh: Drove to Rock of Cashel, spent a little time wandering. Then off to Bunratty. Passed a long line of campers parked off the side of the road, then noticed a group of men surrounding a Garda who appeared to be writing a ticket. Dawns on us- travelers! There were several young children digging through what appeared to be heaps of trash.

Wandered around Bunratty Folk Park for a while, had drinks at Macs and then did some final shopping at Blarney Woolen Mills where I had my first experience with a nasty Irishwomen. She was behind me in line, buying a small teddy bear. I obviously had a lot of stuff and the girl checking me out was new. The lady behind me was griping about how they had asked her to get in this line because she did not have cash, then she had to wait and kept making really, really crappy comments about Damn Yanks. Granted the place was full of "waddlers" from the tour buses. (you know what I mean by waddlers- people who seem oblivious to those around them and stop in the middle of walkways.) This lady kept up her negative comments about how this was her country and all these Damn Yanks thought they were more important, etc. until I had enough. I am redheaded after all. As the clerk finished checking me out, I thanked her very nicely for her patience and kindness and then turned and said, "unlike some people". The lady bristled up and started to say something to me so I smiled sweetly and told her to "Fook Off".

Turns out the clerk left some stuff out of my bag so the next morning, I went back to get it. She had kept it aside and was very apologetic. I told her not to worry about it, that she was obviously being pressured by the lady behind me in line who had "been less than pleasant". She started laughing and said that after I left, the lady made a comment to her about me and the clerk laughed in her face, made her even madder. I am not proud of my behavior but still felt justified.

Had dinner at the Oyster Restaurant at Durty Nellies and had some pints in Macs pub where we met a lovely couple from Achill Island. They convinced us to follow our hearts next time to Donegal. They also thought I was Irish, by the way, which tickled me no end.

Bunratty Lodge was just as wonderful as everyone has said. Take their recommendation for a great night sleep and breakfast.

Flew out safe and sound with tears in my eyes. One last thing- in the departure hall, there were about 200 US Army men and women in their desert fatigues. They were headed back to Iraq after having already done their stint there once. Not a happy crew but when their flight was called, they were given a standing ovation. Nice to see the support for these men and women who are just doing their job.

We will definitely go back to Ireland. There is something that is so magical, so friendly and so beautiful about the country and the people.

Diane

Budman

Diane, great report!!! Too bad you had some bad weather. I know I would never have gotten my wife over the Mizen Head bridge in that wind.

We just got back today from Tuscany. Now I'll have to flip a coin to decide whether to do more of Tuscany or more of Ireland.

edhodge

Thanks, Budman. By the way, I had "your" pint in the Bulman in Kinsale.

Can't wait to read your trip report on Tuscany. That is our next big trip, probably Sept. of 2006.