Iregeo's Paris Trip Report (3/29 - 4/7)
Apr 9th, 2004, 05:13 AM
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Iregeo - I am so enjoying your trip report. Fortunately, we are in the midst of planning our September trip and both your trip planning and your trip report have been inspirations! This will be my 7th trip to Paris but I learn something new every day, thanks to Fodorites such as you. Please continue, I can just picture myself in Luxembourg Gardens with the sun warming my face Ahhhh, Paris.
Apr 9th, 2004, 05:19 AM
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Iregeo,
Thanks for the great trip report and all of the Paris info. I also love the souffles at Le Cigale! Can you tell me a little about your Lufthansa flight? Leg room, service, complementary wine served with dinner? Just curious as I am booked on this airline for the first time. Many thanks!
Thanks for the great trip report and all of the Paris info. I also love the souffles at Le Cigale! Can you tell me a little about your Lufthansa flight? Leg room, service, complementary wine served with dinner? Just curious as I am booked on this airline for the first time. Many thanks!
Apr 9th, 2004, 08:31 AM
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Thank you for your kind words.
SuzieC - I love good wine, but knew little of French wine prior to my trip. Mediterraneo, a poster here who seemed to come out of the woodwork, wrote a wonderful synopsis of french wine for me just prior to my trip, which I printed and studied. It was so helpful to me, and gave me just enough info so that I "had a clue". If you are interested, I am sure you can find it by searching my screen name or his/hers.
Regarding the Latin Quarter, I just didn't find it that interesting. I wanted to go into the Pantheon when we were there, but it was closed for some reason during hours it should have been open. In general, I found other areas of the city much more interesting and attractive.
minimn - This will be the second time I have flown Lufthansa to Europe and I have no complaints. I am an "isle seat" girl, as I must get up and walk frequently, so I always book that type of seat.
I flew a 747 this time and found that the legroom was adequate, but, other than on bargain airlines like Southwest, it usually is for me because I am petite. If you do some research here, there are some websites that help you choose seats and give you a good idea of the layout of the plane.
My only "problem", if you can call it that, was that my carry on had to go overhead, even though I wanted it below my seat, due to some metal box bolted to the seat taking up space. No big deal.
Service was fine, meals were average plane food and wine was offered, though nothing to write home about. When I missed my connection in Frankfurt due to our delayed departue and subsequent arrival, they quickly and easily rebooked me on the next flight. I was very pleased with that.
One note, on my way home, I flew Air New Zealand from Heathrow to LAX on an Airbus. It was, hands down, the nicest airline I have ever flown! They call their Economy class "Pacific Class"; have great leg room, adjustable leg rests, great service and consisitently flowing Australian and New Zealand wines -- 4 different varieties, plus champagne. I had lamb cassoulet for dinner and at "tea", a nice sandwich, biscuit with clotted cream, and other goodies. Very impressive. I wonder what they had in 1st class? I'll never know!
SuzieC - I love good wine, but knew little of French wine prior to my trip. Mediterraneo, a poster here who seemed to come out of the woodwork, wrote a wonderful synopsis of french wine for me just prior to my trip, which I printed and studied. It was so helpful to me, and gave me just enough info so that I "had a clue". If you are interested, I am sure you can find it by searching my screen name or his/hers.
Regarding the Latin Quarter, I just didn't find it that interesting. I wanted to go into the Pantheon when we were there, but it was closed for some reason during hours it should have been open. In general, I found other areas of the city much more interesting and attractive.
minimn - This will be the second time I have flown Lufthansa to Europe and I have no complaints. I am an "isle seat" girl, as I must get up and walk frequently, so I always book that type of seat.
I flew a 747 this time and found that the legroom was adequate, but, other than on bargain airlines like Southwest, it usually is for me because I am petite. If you do some research here, there are some websites that help you choose seats and give you a good idea of the layout of the plane.
My only "problem", if you can call it that, was that my carry on had to go overhead, even though I wanted it below my seat, due to some metal box bolted to the seat taking up space. No big deal.
Service was fine, meals were average plane food and wine was offered, though nothing to write home about. When I missed my connection in Frankfurt due to our delayed departue and subsequent arrival, they quickly and easily rebooked me on the next flight. I was very pleased with that.
One note, on my way home, I flew Air New Zealand from Heathrow to LAX on an Airbus. It was, hands down, the nicest airline I have ever flown! They call their Economy class "Pacific Class"; have great leg room, adjustable leg rests, great service and consisitently flowing Australian and New Zealand wines -- 4 different varieties, plus champagne. I had lamb cassoulet for dinner and at "tea", a nice sandwich, biscuit with clotted cream, and other goodies. Very impressive. I wonder what they had in 1st class? I'll never know!
Apr 9th, 2004, 08:48 AM
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Nice trip report. I miss Paris!
Re: dogs - we transported my brother's Boston Terrier (Boston Terror?) to Europe last fall (my brother has been living there for a few years). My brother said it shouldn't be any problem for Moses to adjust since he doesn't pay attention to directions no matter what language is spoken.
Actually, though, Moses has become a much better-mannered pooch over there. I really think it's because dogs are accepted in so many more places that they learn good public behavior.
Re: dogs - we transported my brother's Boston Terrier (Boston Terror?) to Europe last fall (my brother has been living there for a few years). My brother said it shouldn't be any problem for Moses to adjust since he doesn't pay attention to directions no matter what language is spoken.
Actually, though, Moses has become a much better-mannered pooch over there. I really think it's because dogs are accepted in so many more places that they learn good public behavior.
Apr 9th, 2004, 12:24 PM
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Stormygirl - La Dernierre Goutte is at 6 rue de Bourbon Le Chateau 75006 Paris. It is a small wine store that elle told me about. I went in on a Friday to inquire about their Saturday wine tastings. When I asked the proprietor if they offer classes, he said we take some of these liquids, and put them in some kind of vessels and you drink it and see if you like it. He said sometimes, the more you like, the more you drink, then you get drunk!
It reminded me of a recent post here, about what type of glasses people drink their wine from! He had a really great attitude!
It reminded me of a recent post here, about what type of glasses people drink their wine from! He had a really great attitude!
Apr 9th, 2004, 01:19 PM
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Day 3
Can you have a lazy day in Paris? If so, this was it for us. We got a late start, savored every bit of our cafe and croissants, and started out to explore more of the 6th eme., "our" neighborhood. We went in to Eglise St. Germain des Pres, and then meandered up and down streets, getting lost, window shopping (I'm not much of a shopper on vacation), taking in the open air market with its flowers, vegetables, meats, walked with our croque monsieur and made our way to Rue Jacob. Beautiful antiques, fabrics, jewelry...If I'm not mistaken, the beautiful ecole or musee du beau arts is nearby here. I remember being taken with the building.
Eventually, we made our way back to Cafe Les Deux Magots, where we sat outdoors, enjoying champagne and pastry, again, watching Paris go by. I must say, I don't usually enjoy going to such popular, "cliche" places, but I did enjoy this place. In fact, we returned 2 or 3 times for drinks during our stay. Is it the location, on the boulevard, across from the church, with so much activity? I don't know.
That afternoon, we went to the Rodin Museum, which was really beautiful. I didn't know it also had gardens. What a nice suprise! I had been introduced to sculpture last year at the Borghese Museum in Rome, so I did appreciate the opportunity to further my education. A beautiful place to visit.
As we were strolling through the gardens, we had the good fortune to be entertained by a troupe of young ballerinas, who happened to be practicing on the patio. It was a treat.
Next on to L'Opera Garnier, from the outside only. Since it had been a few hours since we ate or drank, we stopped for cafe at Cafe de la Paix, which has changed since I was there 10 years ago. Unfortunately, they didn't have any outdoor seating set up, so we sat inside, still with a great view of the boulevard for people watching. It was really very pretty.
From there, we strolled through the 1st eme., through the Place Vendome and, of course, the Ritz. Then, to one of my favorite places in Paris, Le Place de la Concorde. To me, that IS Paris.
That evening, we met my former law school roommate (who now lives in Versailles and works in Paris) and her
charming french husband for drinks at George V (The Four Seasons)in the 8th eme. near l'arc de triomphe. WOW! Do go here, if for nothing more than to admire the floral arrangements. Apparently, an American floral designer spends in excess of one million annually on flowers. They are something to see.
For dinner, we went to Lescure, 7 rue Mondavi, in the 1st eme, right behind the American embassy. It was good, not great, and dinner for 2 (escargot, canard, dessert and wine) cost 56E.
Then, back to Place de la Concorde for an evening glimpse, and home again. Maybe it wasn't so lazy after all!
Can you have a lazy day in Paris? If so, this was it for us. We got a late start, savored every bit of our cafe and croissants, and started out to explore more of the 6th eme., "our" neighborhood. We went in to Eglise St. Germain des Pres, and then meandered up and down streets, getting lost, window shopping (I'm not much of a shopper on vacation), taking in the open air market with its flowers, vegetables, meats, walked with our croque monsieur and made our way to Rue Jacob. Beautiful antiques, fabrics, jewelry...If I'm not mistaken, the beautiful ecole or musee du beau arts is nearby here. I remember being taken with the building.
Eventually, we made our way back to Cafe Les Deux Magots, where we sat outdoors, enjoying champagne and pastry, again, watching Paris go by. I must say, I don't usually enjoy going to such popular, "cliche" places, but I did enjoy this place. In fact, we returned 2 or 3 times for drinks during our stay. Is it the location, on the boulevard, across from the church, with so much activity? I don't know.
That afternoon, we went to the Rodin Museum, which was really beautiful. I didn't know it also had gardens. What a nice suprise! I had been introduced to sculpture last year at the Borghese Museum in Rome, so I did appreciate the opportunity to further my education. A beautiful place to visit.
As we were strolling through the gardens, we had the good fortune to be entertained by a troupe of young ballerinas, who happened to be practicing on the patio. It was a treat.
Next on to L'Opera Garnier, from the outside only. Since it had been a few hours since we ate or drank, we stopped for cafe at Cafe de la Paix, which has changed since I was there 10 years ago. Unfortunately, they didn't have any outdoor seating set up, so we sat inside, still with a great view of the boulevard for people watching. It was really very pretty.
From there, we strolled through the 1st eme., through the Place Vendome and, of course, the Ritz. Then, to one of my favorite places in Paris, Le Place de la Concorde. To me, that IS Paris.
That evening, we met my former law school roommate (who now lives in Versailles and works in Paris) and her
charming french husband for drinks at George V (The Four Seasons)in the 8th eme. near l'arc de triomphe. WOW! Do go here, if for nothing more than to admire the floral arrangements. Apparently, an American floral designer spends in excess of one million annually on flowers. They are something to see.
For dinner, we went to Lescure, 7 rue Mondavi, in the 1st eme, right behind the American embassy. It was good, not great, and dinner for 2 (escargot, canard, dessert and wine) cost 56E.
Then, back to Place de la Concorde for an evening glimpse, and home again. Maybe it wasn't so lazy after all!
Apr 9th, 2004, 02:20 PM
#28
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Day 4
One of our best days yet! Bright sunshine, and despite literally NO sleep (I guess jet lag hit me in a strange way), we walked all day. We started with a walk to Isle Saint Louis, where we admired the elegant shops, cafes and expensive real estate. Then, on to Le Marais, where I had never been. I fell in love!
We started at Le Place de la Bastille, then to Eglise St. Paul-St. Louis, and my favorite, Place des Vosges, where we again sat for a long while, pretending we were Parisian. Again, the lovers embraced, the children played, and all seemed right with the world! I'm told that it is here that the most expensive real estate in Paris exists. I see why.
Suddenly, a bout of rain came, so we were forced into yet another cafe to share some wine while the rain passed!
We walked everywhere - I really enjoyed that area. The absolute highlight, and I believe a "don't miss" in Paris, is the Eglise St. Gervais-Saint Protais. It is gorgeous, majestic, perfectly maintained and filled with amazing stained glass. I had never heard of it before, and I recommend it highly.
I had planned on seeing the Picasso and Judiasm museums while in the area, but, without sleep, thought I'd do better staying outside in the air. Now, I know I have something to return for! Along the way, we did take in L'Hotel de Ville, hotel de Sulley, and the Pompidou centre.
After a 3 hour nap (aaahhh...), we had a great night! We had dinner at Le Relais de l'Entrecote. Apparently, they are now a "chain", with one restaurant in the 6th (20 rue Saint-Benoit), one in the 8th (15 rue Marbeuf), and one in Geneva. They have no menu and serve one thing - steak and frites! And boy, they do it well! They do not take reservations, and are packed! The food was wonderful, the service very friendly and the portions, huge! When you finish you're meal, they give you seconds. You think you can't eat it all, but you do! So, dinner for 2 with dessert and another wonderful red wine cost 65E. We ate here two nights.
After walking off at least one portion of dinner, we took in some jazz at a small nightclub, le bilboquet. No cover, great jazz, and 18E drinks, whether champagne or Coke! Another great day in Paradise.
One of our best days yet! Bright sunshine, and despite literally NO sleep (I guess jet lag hit me in a strange way), we walked all day. We started with a walk to Isle Saint Louis, where we admired the elegant shops, cafes and expensive real estate. Then, on to Le Marais, where I had never been. I fell in love!
We started at Le Place de la Bastille, then to Eglise St. Paul-St. Louis, and my favorite, Place des Vosges, where we again sat for a long while, pretending we were Parisian. Again, the lovers embraced, the children played, and all seemed right with the world! I'm told that it is here that the most expensive real estate in Paris exists. I see why.
Suddenly, a bout of rain came, so we were forced into yet another cafe to share some wine while the rain passed!
We walked everywhere - I really enjoyed that area. The absolute highlight, and I believe a "don't miss" in Paris, is the Eglise St. Gervais-Saint Protais. It is gorgeous, majestic, perfectly maintained and filled with amazing stained glass. I had never heard of it before, and I recommend it highly.
I had planned on seeing the Picasso and Judiasm museums while in the area, but, without sleep, thought I'd do better staying outside in the air. Now, I know I have something to return for! Along the way, we did take in L'Hotel de Ville, hotel de Sulley, and the Pompidou centre.
After a 3 hour nap (aaahhh...), we had a great night! We had dinner at Le Relais de l'Entrecote. Apparently, they are now a "chain", with one restaurant in the 6th (20 rue Saint-Benoit), one in the 8th (15 rue Marbeuf), and one in Geneva. They have no menu and serve one thing - steak and frites! And boy, they do it well! They do not take reservations, and are packed! The food was wonderful, the service very friendly and the portions, huge! When you finish you're meal, they give you seconds. You think you can't eat it all, but you do! So, dinner for 2 with dessert and another wonderful red wine cost 65E. We ate here two nights.
After walking off at least one portion of dinner, we took in some jazz at a small nightclub, le bilboquet. No cover, great jazz, and 18E drinks, whether champagne or Coke! Another great day in Paradise.
Apr 9th, 2004, 03:11 PM
#29
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Can't wait to eat at Le Cigale again. Thanks for the tip on the name and location chage. I really embarassing for a grown man to cry when you think they may have gone out of business at the old address. When My wife had the Gran Marnier soufle for desert they left the bottle on the table so she could add more as needed and we got our monies worth.Is the new place bigger? We were the only non french folks in the place when we visited in 2001, November seems so long away. Great report.
Apr 9th, 2004, 03:19 PM
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What an enjoyable trip report! I hope you have more...my neck hurts from nodding my head in agreement especially about Place de la Concorde--"Then, to one of my favorite places in Paris, Le Place de la Concorde. To me, that IS Paris." It's an unlikely "special" place for some people what with the numerous Parisian landmarks--but this is my favorite, enduring memory of Paris.
I loved the Place des Vosges, too...I spent many mornings eating pain au chocolat and writing in my journal while people-watching there...Did you notice how fat the pigeons are at this "Place"?
I loved the Place des Vosges, too...I spent many mornings eating pain au chocolat and writing in my journal while people-watching there...Did you notice how fat the pigeons are at this "Place"?
Apr 9th, 2004, 03:23 PM
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StephenG - merci beaucoup! I was never at the old location so I can't compare. The new location did not seem large, but contemporary. White talbleclothes, bookshelves with fine art books and wine and food books... They also have an outdoor covered patio, and outdoor tables under white umbrellas. Reservations are recommended. We just stopped by late at lunchtime, and had to return 45 minutes later.
We had the bottle of Grand Marnier on our table too. I had to ask them how to do it and they showed me. I felt embarrassed, but wasn't going to miss the opportunity to experience that souffle! Tres, tres bien!
We had the bottle of Grand Marnier on our table too. I had to ask them how to do it and they showed me. I felt embarrassed, but wasn't going to miss the opportunity to experience that souffle! Tres, tres bien!
Apr 9th, 2004, 03:45 PM
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Iregeo!
#1 - You are a good eater and treat yourself well.
#2 - I also did that Air New Zealand flight from LA once. It was the best flight I ever took. They are amazing!
#3 - I just flew to Spain on Lufthansa and I must say that they are prompt and depart on-time. The service was professional and flight food decent but not great. My Lufthansa flight was on an A340 in both directions and i did notice that I had more legroom on my outbound flight then I did on my return. Nonetheless I fly Lufthansa a lot and find them to be a good airline!
#1 - You are a good eater and treat yourself well.
#2 - I also did that Air New Zealand flight from LA once. It was the best flight I ever took. They are amazing!
#3 - I just flew to Spain on Lufthansa and I must say that they are prompt and depart on-time. The service was professional and flight food decent but not great. My Lufthansa flight was on an A340 in both directions and i did notice that I had more legroom on my outbound flight then I did on my return. Nonetheless I fly Lufthansa a lot and find them to be a good airline!
Apr 9th, 2004, 04:10 PM
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You guys are great! It is enjoyable for me to write this report, because it allows me to relive my trip. The fact that someone actually wants to read it is a huge thrill!
richardab - welcome home. I hope your trip was great and look forward to reading about it.
Yes, I do eat (and drink) well, but I'm here to tell you that with all the eating and drinking I did, I gained only 2 pounds! Must have been all the walking. IMHO, this is, in large part, what vacation is for, especially in Paris!
richardab - welcome home. I hope your trip was great and look forward to reading about it.
Yes, I do eat (and drink) well, but I'm here to tell you that with all the eating and drinking I did, I gained only 2 pounds! Must have been all the walking. IMHO, this is, in large part, what vacation is for, especially in Paris!
Apr 9th, 2004, 04:38 PM
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I'm really enjoying your report. Keep it going! You're hitting many of my favorite places. Ile Saint-Louis -- we stayed there; I love it in the evening. Place de Vosges; many enjoyable afternoons spent relaxing there! Opera Garnier -- the inside really is spectacular; something else to put on the 'next time' list. Most of all, just wandering....
Apr 9th, 2004, 05:49 PM
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Great report, Iregeo! Sounds like you had a wonderful time. I agree about the Parisien dogs - they are SO well-behaved. I'm so amazed to see them walking along on high-traffic streets with no leashes. And I love them in restaurants. I wish I knew the secret, so I could tell my two big,spoiled, unruly angels how to behave! Your trip report is making me very homesick for Paris!
Apr 9th, 2004, 06:18 PM
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Iregeo, I am SO loving your report! I will be on my very first trip to Europe in June (altho only 2 days in Paris), but I can't WAIT!!! Your narrative has me drooling. Thanks so much!! What is "eme".? From the context, I'm guessing the neighborhoods are numbered and that's what this is? Colette
Apr 9th, 2004, 08:23 PM
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An arrondissement is a "district" in Paris. The little abbreviations are French for the ordinal numbers (first, second, third, etc.)
First should be 1er because it is premier, the others are usually ème standing for deuxième (2nd), troisième (3rd), quatrième (4th) . . . you get the idea.
First should be 1er because it is premier, the others are usually ème standing for deuxième (2nd), troisième (3rd), quatrième (4th) . . . you get the idea.
