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I’d like some help planning trip in Italy

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Old Aug 2nd, 2012, 05:53 PM
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I’d like some help planning trip in Italy

I will be a visiting fellow at the University of Bologna Sept. 16 - Oct. 13. I booked my husband’s flights last December (because I had Lufthansa miles that were expiring the end of the year) and, for reasons I don’t recall or may not have thought through at the time, booked the flights to and from Rome. We arrive in Rome on Sat., Sept. 15, at 6:15 pm and would like to be in Bologna by early evening the next day. My current thought is to rent a car at the Rome airport, spend the night at a relatively inexpensive hotel outside the city (e.g., the Ibis between the airport and the city; $80/nt.), and then drive to Bologna the next day (a Sunday) and drop off the car. Do you have suggestions of other relatively inexpensive lodgings that I should consider? I found car rentals from Hertz at $80-100 through CarRentals.com. Are there Italian car rental companies that I should also investigate? If possible, I’d like to drop off the car near the University of Bologna, but we could take it to the airport, which doesn’t seem to be very far from the university (and that may be the only drop-off place that’s open in the early evening). What are some good things to see and do on the way from Rome to Bologna?

We will be in Bologna for 4 weeks and would appreciate recommendations of things to see and do there as well as out-of-town excursions on weekends. E.g., my husband might enjoy taking some cooking or Italian-language lessons in Bologna.

We will then have 8 days for travelling within Italy before leaving for home from Rome at 9:30 am the morning of Sunday, Oct. 21. Our current thought is to rent a car and go to the Amalfi Coast/Naples/Vesuvius area. I would ideally like to stay in one or two places and fan out from there for day trips. I’d appreciate suggestions of what would be a good base (or two) and recommendations of things to see there and on day trips from there, and along the way there from Bologna (or back to Rome).

By the way, we enjoy nature, good museums, opera, and city walking tours, but are always open to new experiences.

Thanks in advance for your help.
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Old Aug 2nd, 2012, 06:09 PM
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4 weeks in Bologna - sounds wonderful! Just for starters,are you sure you want to rent a car and drive after your flight? Let us know where you're traveling FROM and whether you've been to Italy before.

I think I'd be inclined to just head from the airport (FCO?) into Rome, stay overnight, and take a fast train straight up to Bologna. Quick, easy and relatively scenic. And then you wouldn't have to worry about dropping the car.

DH and I like to rent cars in parts of Italy where public transportation is a little less accessible than most (Tuscany; Piemonte) but avoid rental cars like the plague around the big cities.
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Old Aug 2nd, 2012, 06:12 PM
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Oops - forgot to ask - how much luggage will you have? A lot of luggage could make train travel a bit of a challenge.
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Old Aug 2nd, 2012, 06:57 PM
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Yes, lots of luggage and train travel don't mix well. But lots of luggage and car travel isn't much better. You'd want a car with a trunk large enough to hold the luggage (out of sight).

Most car rental companies away from airports keep typical business hours (9-ish to 5-ish or fewer hours) but are also closed for 1.5-2 hours at lunch; Saturdays are usually morning-only, and they're closed on Sundays.

The drive from Fiumicino to Bologna is about 4 hours on the main highway and upwards of 7-8 hours if you stick to secondary, more scenic, generally more interesting roads. Personally, with all the time you're going to have in Italy, I'd just train to Bologna the day after arrival and get settled in. I'd spend the arrival night in Rome, have a nice dinner, take a stroll around the city the next morning before catching the train.

You need to start reading guidebooks and doing research on all there is to see in Italy. You could satisfy your interests in so many parts of the country, but if you basically only have weekends to explore while you're in Bologna, you'll have to be selective. It's a little over 2 hours to Rome, a little less to Venice, only 40 minutes to Florence, etc. Parma! Ferrara! Ravenna! Lake Garda! The list could go on and on.

You can check the trains here:

http://www.fsitaliane.com/homepage_en.html

Eight days in the Amalfi Coast area would be wonderful (although you risk bad weather at that time), but were you planning to spend any days in Rome before flying home? I think my choice for those 8 days would be to explore Umbria and/or Chianti and southern Tuscany for half of that time because these areas would be difficult to see in short weekend trips unless you want to rent cars multiple times. (Even this is tricky since you'd probably have to rent/return at the airport every time.) Then spend 4 days in Rome.
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Old Aug 2nd, 2012, 07:03 PM
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I forgot to mention... If you're offered a guided tour of the University of Bologna, don't miss it! Because of connection we had, we were able to do this a few years ago. I loved it.

If you and/or your husband have even a passing interest in motorcycles, visit the Ducati factory outside of Bologna.

http://www.ducati.com/company/visit_us/index.do
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Old Aug 4th, 2012, 10:03 AM
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Thanks very much, Jespere and Jean, for your replies.

We will be flying to Rome from Los Angeles, with a change of planes in Frankfurt. I had originally planned to take the train from the airport to the Termini station in Rome, spend the night near the station, and then take the fast train to Bologna the next day (and then a taxi from there to our lodging near the university). (In fact, I booked, and still have, a reservation at B&B Tropical, Via Del Castro Pretorio 42, in Rome, which is 0.3 mi. from the train station.) However, it was the thought of lugging luggage that made me change to the car rental idea. (Because of the amount of time we’ll be away and the fact I’ll be working and can’t wear the same thing every day, we will not be travelling light.)

We share the opinion of not liking to have rental cars in large cities. My thought was to explore some out-of-city sights and small cities on the way from Rome to Bologna. E.g., I notice that there are several nature reserves between FCO and downtown Rome. Are those worth seeing? It does appear that we will need to drop the rental car at the airport in Bologna, but we could drop off our luggage at our lodging in Bologna before doing that.

Is it difficult to rent a car at the Rome airport? Are the rental car offices in or near the international terminal?

If we do go back to the train idea, what’s the difference between Frecciarossa and Frecciargento?

My husband have been to Italy several times but not for around 30 years. We have seen most of the tourist sights in the north and have spent time in Florence and Rome. I took a day trip to Naples and Pompei in the early ‘90s, but my husband wasn’t on that trip. Is there anything new worth seeing in Florence or Rome? Since we will be flying out of Rome at the end, we can spend some time there at the end of our trip. We also have the possibility of postponing our departure date if we want to extend our trip. So far, it appears that we cannot make our arrival earlier.

Thanks for the tip about the guided tour of the University of Bologna. We should be able to arrange that.
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Old Aug 4th, 2012, 10:19 AM
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Since my husband and I will often be in different places while we’re in Bologna, it would probably be useful for us to each have a (dumb, cheap) cell phone to keep in touch with one another. I’d appreciate suggestions about that – in particular whether we should get them in the U.S. before we leave or get them in Italy. It would be good if one of them was something we could use on future trips to places other than Italy. We may not need the second one again. Perhaps we should rent that one?
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Old Aug 4th, 2012, 11:19 AM
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Also, if we take the train from Rome to Bologna, what's the difference between 1st and 2nd class? Does that affect the amount of luggage one can bring?
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Old Aug 4th, 2012, 12:42 PM
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No difference in the trains. You'd have more space around you in 1st class than 2nd class, but in either class you'd probably have to put larger pieces of luggage in the rack at the end of the compartment. You can carry as much on the train as you can carry, but the boarding process can feel a bit chaotic especially if you're trying to keep your eye on several pieces of luggage. You might look into the possibility of shipping a portion of your luggage directly to Bologna from home so that you can travel lighter.

I believe the 'nature reserves' you're seeing between Fiumicino and Bologna are just undeveloped areas. To be honest, I realize looking at the map now that we've driven through some of them without realizing they were nature reserves. If you're not much interested in seeing any of the Tuscan towns along the way (most of which cannot be reached by train), you could stop at one or two of the abbeys. Many love Sant'Antimo near Montalcino. We loved Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore south of Siena.

Sant'Antimo is surrounded by rolling hills and has no public facilities. Monte Oliveto Maggiore is on top of a cypress-covered hill. There is a restaurant with a terrace at the entrance. The abbey grounds are closed to visitors for a couple of hours mid-day, so time your visit accordingly.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Abbey_of_Sant%27Antimo

http://www.monteolivetomaggiore.it/lang1/
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Old Aug 4th, 2012, 01:18 PM
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<<it would probably be useful for us to each have a (dumb, cheap) cell phone to keep in touch with one another. I’d appreciate suggestions about that – in particular whether we should get them in the U.S. before we leave or get them in Italy.>>

I just bought a quad-band, dual-SIM unlocked phone on e-bay for $31.00. It even has a camera, video, and flashlight. Just go to e-bay and search - there are hundreds to choose from in all price ranges (I saw several for about $11.00!). Then, when you get to Italy, go to a TIM store and get a SIM card (there may be other places to get one as well).
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Old Aug 4th, 2012, 01:53 PM
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Jean - My husband also suggested the idea of shipping a portion of my luggage directly to Bologna. Do you have suggestions of who to have do that? I recall looking into it for a trip to Australia, and it was very expensive. Thanks for the suggestions of Sant'Antimo and Monte Oliveto Maggiore. We would be interested in seeing some of the Tuscan towns along the way. Which ones would you particularly recommmend?

StCirq - I will look on eBay for quad-band, dual-SIM unlocked phones. Thanks for the suggestion.
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Old Aug 4th, 2012, 02:29 PM
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The nature parks around Bologna are very good (not just under-developed land) but part of the flood plain management system that makes the Po valley work.

You could also pop into Ferrara as a small town nearby. But I too worry about a car drive after LA to Frankfurt to Rome
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Old Aug 4th, 2012, 02:58 PM
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Don't try to drive to Bologna the day you arrive! The jat lag will make you too drowsy. Our son-in-law insisted on driving from Milan to Carrara on arrival day, and dozed off at the wheel three times, in spite of downing several espressos before we set out. It's a wonder we were not killed!

And the drive on the autostrada can be endless is there is construction or heavy traffic (which is often the case). Considering what you would be paying for a car rental, plus a night in Rome, do consider shipping some of your luggage. Then you can take the fast train on the day you arrive.

Considering that Bologna is the culinary heart of Italy, in addition to visiting the wonderful food stores in the Centro, especially the filled pastas, take trips to Parma for cheese and ham factories, and Modena for balsamic vinegar.

In town, take a walk up and down the colonnades (666 of them) up to San Luca. A great experience. Or taxi up and walk down. Stop at the bottom of the hill for a meal at Meloncello. Divine gnocchi, like clouds!
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Old Aug 4th, 2012, 03:06 PM
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I forgot to mention that you cannot drive an unregistered car into central Bologna, if that is where your accommodations will be. (Look up ZTL for more info.) You will be slammed with a huge, several-hundred euro fine for each violation. And it is quite easy to miss the signs warning you to stay out. We did, when we were lost looking for the autostrada, and only escaped the fine because the Italian bureaucracy failed to send up the ticket within the year. We did have to pay about $30 to the car rental agency for an administrative fee. So getting your luggage to your lodgings when you get to Bologna may be easier by getting a taxi at the train station.
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Old Aug 4th, 2012, 03:38 PM
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I haven't shipped luggage ahead, but I think in your situation it would be worth it. "Worth it," however, is a subjective opinion. This company will ship one bag weighing 25 lbs. for $134 one way or $158 round trip. What will your airline charge for that checked bag?

http://www.luggageforward.com/quote_international.jsp

Another:

http://www.luggagefree.com/pricing/international/


In terms of which towns to visit along the way, I really think you should read some guidebooks to see which might interest you more than others. Everyone will tell you their favorite/s, but there are more charming towns than you'll have time for. If it were my trip, I wouldn't drive the main highway/autostrada until I was north of Florence. If you want to see one of the abbeys, trace the drive to the abbey from the airport to see what towns will be a short detour away. If you got an early start, you could probably be in southern Tuscany (San Quirico, Pienza, Montalcino, Montepulciano) by lunch time.

Definitely buy a good road map, but while planning you can use online mapping websites:

www.maps.google.com

www.viamichelin.com
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Old Aug 4th, 2012, 04:29 PM
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If we drive from Rome to Bologna, we would spend the night in Rome before beginning that drive. I was thinking of staying at the Ibis motel between the airport and the city.

We arrive at FCO at 6:30 pm. By the time we'd get to the Termini Station in Rome, there are no more fast trains to Bologna. Even if there were, flying from L.A. to Rome, then taking the train to the Termini Station in Rome, then the train from there to Bologna, and then a taxi to our lodging sounds like way too much without a break.

I can check on whether our accommodations in Bologna are in central Bologna. (We're staying at Residenza di Studi Superiori, Via M. Fantin 15, 40131 Bologna.) If it would be a problem to stop there to drop off luggage, we could drive straight to the Bologna airport to drop off the car and then take a taxi to the residenza.

I am hoping that because I am Star Alliance Gold I will not have to pay for luggage. Jean - I looked at the websites you suggested. What they call the "return trip" is Italy to U.S. (not round trip). The total for a 25-lb. bag round trip would be $292 with Luggage Forward and similar with Luggage Free. I will just have to put up with lugging around the luggage (but can probably leave some of it in the car some of the time).

We have guidebooks and are studying them, and will be able to get advice from colleagues at the university. Nonetheless, I am always in interested in hearing about Fodorites' experiences and recommendations.
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Old Aug 4th, 2012, 04:50 PM
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Your lodging is between the main train station (1.5 miles away) and the airport (4.5 miles away), and it's outside the ZTL. Look for Carracci on the map; your lodging is in that general area. The ZTL is the olive green area.

http://www.comune.bologna.it/media/f...l_20112012.pdf
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Old Aug 4th, 2012, 05:33 PM
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Towns we enjoyed along your route from Fiumicino Airport and Bologna:

Bracciano on Lake Bracciano (great castle above the town)
Viterbo (Etruscan history, papal palace)
Civita di Bagnoregio (car-free historical center reached only by an elevated pathway)
Orvieto (lots to see)
Montepulciano (quintessential Tuscan hill town)
Pienza
San Quirico (small, compact)
Montalcino (lots of wine shops) and nearby Sant'Antimo Abbey
Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore near Buonconvento
Siena (a fairly big city with traffic, parking issues that would not work with your plan that day)
Castellina in Chianti (charming)
Fiesole (NW of Florence)

But considering the drive from Fiumicino to Bologna on the autostrada (A1) will take about 4 hours without stops, I think you'd be lucky to pick one interesting place not far off the route to have lunch and briefly explore. Montepulciano is almost exactly halfway and not far off the A1.
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Old Aug 4th, 2012, 06:20 PM
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my d.h. took a language class last year in bologna through koine and loved it. (didn't like the one in florence nearly as much.) their teacher, andrea, is beloved.

last may, we actually went back to bologna to meet with both his teacher and with my husband's host family and had a fantastic time. (you can see my trip report)

if you are staying in bologna for such a long time, you may want to consider the airbnb listing where we stayed... i believe it was under 50E. we were in a woman's apartment, but had our own bedroom and bathroom. (though the bathroom was across the hall.) perfectly situated a few minutes walk from the square. it's listed as 'converted convent' i believe.

also in my trip report are my recommendations for the best gelato and granitas(imho) in italy. love bologna!
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Old Aug 4th, 2012, 07:27 PM
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Thanks, Jean, for the suggestions of places to stop along the drive from Rome to Bologna.

Kawh - Thanks for the recommendation of the B&B. However, we will be staying in an accommodation provided by the university. I will show my husband the website for Koine school. How many weeks did your husband study there?
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