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Yesterday we took three trains from Pinhao to the university "town" of Coimbra, which is more of a busy, congested Portuguese city. Almost missed our connection, as our train was 16 minutes late leaving Pinhao.
There's a huge construction project going on right outside our apartment window - on the same level with the fourth floor! Portugal feels like a perpetual construction zone and is anything but peaceful. This trip has been quite the departure for us - a far cry from the quiet countryside of Switzerland, Austria and Germany that we usually visit. I had a 'help me Jesus' moment when confronted with 65 steep steps up to our apartment. No matter how well we vet these places, there always seems to be a surprise. Not much fun with luggage. And the eggs and fish - I can't seem to get away from the eggs and fish. A grocery store visit yesterday was an assault on the nose. We're off to explore Coimbra - wish us luck. PS - I will address the Douro question when I have more time. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...11553c3c66.jpg This separated us from our apartment https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...053467157c.jpg Construction outside our fourth floor window https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...01654d5ab7.jpg Cod in grocery store - phew https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e1f62f8ce4.jpg I'm on the wine diet - can't fault the wine https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ec26b90a54.jpg An entire store dedicated to sardines https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cd24b40125.jpg University students https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...446182eb2c.jpg Help me Jesus - 65 steep steps up to our apartment |
Oh, Mel, I hope your experience of Coimbra improved and you’re enjoying it more than your initial impressions! And if not, may the wine carry you through!
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Ouch, 65 steps with luggage is no fun! Can't wait to see more photos from Coimbra. Love the sardines tins, I think I'll bring back as many as my airline weight limit allows.
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Mel,
Hopefully your holiday in Coimbra flourishes after your initial reception (numerous apartment stairs-major construction site outside your window) We arrive there on May 13th for 2 nights. Curious, did the apartment owners advise you in advance about the stairs and or the major construction. That happened to us in Leipzig. Major construction directly in front of the apartment, street completely torn up which resulted in no Wi-Fi service at all in the area. The construction had obviously been ongoing for a while with no mention of it from the Air BNB owner. Which I thought was wrong. |
Oh dear. I ran into the too many steps problem in Aix - didn't fully process which floor the room was on. I also had a problem with scaffolding outside my window in San Sebastian, but I arrived at the start of a holiday weekend, and moved out early before the work started (all the way out of San Sebastian, for that matter). How long are you in Coimbra, and can you move?
Cool student photo! |
I was wondering all along how you would fare in Portugal, given your love of the mountains and the amazing scenery and hiking in Switzerland and Austria, etc. I was surprised by your choice and hope it isn’t a complete bust. We especially loved the Alentejo area and if you’d be willing to rent a car there’s lots of beautiful countryside to explore from Evora.
At least there’s good wine! |
Curious, did the apartment owners advise you in advance about the stairs and or the major construction.
Yes and no. We knew there were stairs, but underestimated how many and how steep. It's not the first time we've done this to ourselves. Almost every place in Coimbra we researched had an access problem, be it steep hills or stairs - this place had no hills so seemed a good compromise. The construction just began 10 days ago per the owner. Even though they're currently pounding right outside my window, last night they finished at 6 and didn't start up again until 8 this morning, so it wasn't a problem. We're here for three nights and will just stay put. I was surprised by your choice and hope it isn’t a complete bust. It absolutely has not been a bust. Yes, it's very much outside of our usual 'zone' but we're having a good time and it's proving to be a good experience. We loved Porto, which surprised the hell out of both of us. |
Mel,
Have you found "Fangas Veg" at Rua de Fernandes Thomas 45 in Coimbra? No sardines there! https://www.facebook.com/FangasVeg/ |
Maribel - thank you, might have to look into it.
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Mel, its great that you've chosen a reality-based TR i.e. including the daily 'good, bad and ugly'. Many TRs skip or edit the grind. Btw, your '65 steps from Hell' reminded me of our own dodged bullet. Covid cancelled our planned Amalfi coast trip, which would've included an all-time splurge villa rental. Only prob with that villa was its series of steep steps. We'd planned to stay at Progol's Scogliera lodgings then move onto that nearby splurge. Our knees were grateful for that cancellation.
Carry on Mel! I am done. the huffing |
A good day in Coimbra...a rookie mistake at a bakery this morning...I randomly selected an interesting looking filo pastry - took one bite, and very briefly thought it was apricot due to the color...but no...it seems the egg hater had inadvertently bought herself a Pastel de Tentúgal.
We visited the colorful and pungent Mercado Municipal...The Biblioteca Joanina, Royal Palace, St Michael's Chapel and Chimico Laboratory at the university, followed by a shockingly cheap Indian lunch (12.30 euro for two including a full bottle of wine!) then coffee and kitties at the Cat Cafe. Tonight...Fado https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...991faa3d85.jpg Mercado Municipal https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a237b97788.jpg Mercado Municipal https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b629966541.jpg Mercado Municipal https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f56a44e6d2.jpg Mercado Municipal https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4b99f66a91.jpg Coimbra views https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...76634433b8.jpg University https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...12598b87d9.jpg Palace ceiling https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ee9b4f385b.jpg No idea https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8213fded44.jpg Rescue kitty, Cat Cafe https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a8bd409d85.jpg Coimbra |
Great pix!
Sadly, it's been a few years since I was in Portugal, but the wine used to be so cheap that the restaurants didn't sell it by the glass. Sounds like things haven't changed too much. |
Really enjoying your photos of Coimbra.
Mel, speaking of stairs, have you been up (argh!) or preferably DOWN the long "Backbreaker's Staircase" (Escadas do Quebra Costas) yet? You probably have. It connects the U. and Old Cathedral with the downtown. Stairs, stairs and more stairs! Luckily we took it down rather than having to climb it up. Coimbra, another of Portugal's vertical cities, built on a mountain! A good cardio workout... |
Very nice that they put in an elevator for the mobility challenged! (At least, there was one the last time I was there.)
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Enjoying your photos! Are those pigs feet in the market? Coimbra looks gritty.
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Karen, it is gritty...at least that's how my eyes saw it.
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Mel, last November I wrote you this:
"Be carefull when booking the places you will stay. I'm working at a guesthouse downtown that is the only one with a lift (not good for you because the rooms are really tiny, I think 9 square meters, you have no place for luggage), but in 2019 early 2020, I was managing several apartments in Porto city center. One of the buildings, very well located and really beautifull, had no lift, of course. Only stairs. When "Booking" says "only stairs available to the upper floors" read the reviews and try to find out how high the building is. This one was 108 steps." I'm sorry I told you this would be a Porto and Lisboa problem. Completely forgot that Coimbra has the same issue. Fado: Fado from Coimbra is completely different than Fado from Lisboa, and much better, I think. It can only be sanged by men. |
Originally Posted by Maribel
(Post 17351771)
Really enjoying your photos of Coimbra.
Mel, speaking of stairs, have you been up (argh!) or preferably DOWN the long "Backbreaker's Staircase" (Escadas do Quebra Costas) yet? You probably have. It connects the U. and Old Cathedral with the downtown. Stairs, stairs and more stairs! Luckily we took it down rather than having to climb it up. Coimbra, another of Portugal's vertical cities, built on a mountain! A good cardio workout... |
Originally Posted by KarenWoo
(Post 17351789)
Enjoying your photos! Are those pigs feet in the market? Coimbra looks gritty.
All of Portugal feels pretty gritty so far. In fact, we've used that very word several times since we've been here. |
The Escadas do Quebra Costas leads you to the Old Cathedral. Below the Old Cathedral there's a very, very good restaurant, "Tapas nas Costas" for wines and petiscos at Rua Quebra Costas 19, next to a Fado house.
Off the above street (Quebra Costas) is other petiscos (small plates like tapas) street, Rua de Fernandes Thomas, the old Fangas street, with little tapas places lined up in a row---Fangas Maior, Alqueire Comes e Bebes, Fangas Veg, Arcada Comes e Bebes, also a Chocolataria Equador. |
Helena - I remember your warnings about Porto and Lisboa and booked apartments with elevators! We suspected Coimbra would be problematic too, but didn't seem to have many options to avoid stairs.
It's good exercise though - gotta keep up with the eating and drinking somehow:) Enjoyed the Fado tonight - and the tiramisu! https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...43cd027abb.jpg Fado https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e6ab460275.jpg Tiramisu Also saw egg liqueur on a menu today...yikes. |
Mel, are you allergic to eggs? Or you just don't like eggs? Just curious because of your funny comments about eggs:)
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Mel, that sardine shop in Coimbra looked like the Comur shop. Comur has these fanciful shops all over Portugal (hint, hint...for xyz99 to fill up the suitcases!)
https://www.comur.com/where-to-find-...imbra/?lang=en |
Originally Posted by Maribel
(Post 17351875)
Mel, that sardine shop in Coimbra looked like the Comur shop. Comur has these fanciful shops all over Portugal (hint, hint...for xyz99 to fill up the suitcases!)
https://www.comur.com/where-to-find-...imbra/?lang=en |
Sweet merciful Jayzuz - 65 steps? I think NOT!
A few years back I was concerned about DH's impaired mobility and the hills of Lisbon, so went on a solo visit to assess for myself. I learned that some places would simply be out of the question - e.g., Castelo de São Jorge - but uber made most places feasible. But no way either of us would have been able to negotiate 65 stairs to our lodging, with or without luggage! Your notes and pics are delightful - though I am quite comfortable in 5 star ambience, I am no stranger to gritty and have enjoyed some great times in that sort of environment. Carry on!! |
Originally Posted by KarenWoo
(Post 17351857)
Mel, are you allergic to eggs? Or you just don't like eggs? Just curious because of your funny comments about eggs:)
Eggs are fine as a stealth ingredient, but not as the main attraction. Fish and seafood have the same effect on me. I think I have an overly sensitive nose and gag reflex. Not much of a meat or pork eater either; it's a texture thing. In other words I'm a total pain in the ass. I'm one of those people you don't want to have over for dinner, although I happily live off beans, lentils, salads, bread, cheese fruit, and vegetable side dishes. |
I think I can understand 'gritty' to describe parts of Portugal. One of the reasons I like it, similar to Budapest in that you can tell people work and live there. The history is right in front of you. Vienna to us felt like a wedding cake, too frilly and made up.
A car for a portion of your trip would have been nice to get up into the mountains and the area around the Zezere glacier. Plenty of hikes and small villages. Seeing a women doing her wash at the town water pump, looked gritty but unchanged and interesting. We're staying in some of the smaller schist villages and looking forward to the peacefulness, Lisbon/Porto will be our hectic places. Leaving for Porto in two days, Covid test today. Thanks for pics, wife and I enjoyed looking at Porto and getting us fired up. |
BD & Progol plus anyone else Portugal-bound: enjoy your trips!
I am done. the Bucacao *Bonus section We see Mel tied up and seated in a chair in a dingy dungeon. Mel is muzzled--a rag has been tied tightly around their mouth. A single bare light bulb illuminates the dim room and it sways whenever the trams pass just outside. Mel is being interrogated by Russian operatives. The chief interrogator stands before Mel. He wears a monocle and bears a livid scar down one cheek. Chief Interrogator (deep monotone voice as he offers pen for Mel to take): "You now sign zee papers Mel." Mel (animatedly, doing best to speak despite being muzzled): "Owkineyesine...youvtiedmmihandzbeehinmibak?!" (how can I sign when you've tied my hands?) CI (slightly more insistent): "Nyet Mel. No rezeest. Only sign zee papers, da?" Mel is exasperated and says nothing. The CI turns and calmly points to a subordinate. That subordinate immediately goes to the corner and removes an object from a black leather bag. The CI takes the object then moves close to Mel. CI (clears throat then speaks): "OKyee Mel. I gived you hoportunitee for make right thing to do and sign papers. Now 'eet comes to thees." The CI presents the object threateningly to Mel---it is a single brown egg. Mel's eyes widen. The poor, bound prisoner shudders then tries in vain to back away. The subordinate suddenly picks up some audio on his earpiece. He cocks his head before shouting, "SEAL TEAM IS COMING, COMRADE! 'EES EGG DIVISION SIX--WE MUST MAKE THE RUNNING!" I am done. the return to Mel's TR |
Your imagination is boundless zebec:)
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Zebec, you made my day!!!! I needed a laugh!
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Our final day in Coimbra...a bit of rain, a bit of sunshine, a bit of grit. A whole lot of walking, a big green bear. Some steep hills, a refreshing jug of sangria, more steep hills, a stroll through a botanic garden. Street art, street music, and that most exciting of all things one must do while traveling...laundry.
Despite our rocky start we enjoyed Coimbra. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...68f0ce72ef.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aecd88f606.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1c1ddff5ad.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3ca865e633.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...764c99fd0a.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e13aabc939.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4078f75293.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0d9ea44638.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2683e97748.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...caed1d173c.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ffbb3aa702.jpg |
Such fun seeing your photos every day.
Your photo of the sardine shop made me laugh as I remembered the sardine shop in Lisbon where you could purchase a can with the year of your birth on it. I wonder if the sardines in it were actually from that year, haha! https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...950b8152c.jpeg Sardines for every year |
TPAYT - I suspect it's the same shop, just a different location - they had the year of birth sardine cans here too.
Maribel -- I've been meaning to ask you - what's up with the lack of toilet seats in public toilets, any idea? |
Mel,
I haven't honestly encountered that, but I haven't used many public toilets in Portugal. These crazy tinned fish shops are all over the country-- they do love, love, love their tinned sardines, like the Spanish love their tinned tuna (ventresca is the best). Once you've tried Spanish canned ventresca you'll never, ever eat Starkist again! https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c686776f5.jpeg |
Mel, your photos are just a pleasure - love the gorilla sculptured graffiti (?). Remarkable! Where is this?
I’m so glad you did like Coimbra, it looks like a very eclectic city, with so many fun sides to it. Where to next? |
Maribel wrote:
"These crazy tinned fish shops are all over the country-- they do love, love, love their tinned sardines, like the Spanish love their tinned tuna (ventresca is the best). Once you've tried Spanish canned ventresca you'll never, ever eat Starkist again!" I don't know about our Spanish brothers, but I can assure you about us (portuguese): we do not love that tinned sardines. If you go into a portuguese home, you hardly find a can of it. Those Shops are a recent thing, for tourists. 10years ago, there where no shops for cans, but we used to buy a lot of tuna in supermarkets. Like 3 tuna cans, one of sardines (just in case). We really like fresh sardines. Cans are just a "help" with dinner. |
Sorry, sorry, sorry about the misinformation, Helena! I should have written "love their GRILLED sardines", no?:) I love the freshly grilled sardines anyway!
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Love the photos, but did you not go to Conimbriga?
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Glad you continue to enjoy your time in Portugal, Mel. Don't know what it is, Coimbra just doesn't speak to me. I liked Lisbon and, judging from your photos, like Porto as well.
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Originally Posted by progol
(Post 17352170)
Mel, your photos are just a pleasure - love the gorilla sculptured graffiti (?). Remarkable! Where is this?
I’m so glad you did like Coimbra, it looks like a very eclectic city, with so many fun sides to it. Where to next? We ran across it walking around yesterday in a neighborhood over by the park that runs alongside the river. |
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