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Oh, Mel, I'm so glad you found it and liked it. A couple we met at VH took all their lunches and dinners there--better food, better prices.
Keep those wonderful photos coming, we're all enjoying them so much and living vicariously through your adventures! |
OMG, that lunch! I can feel my waistband expanding even as I look at it!
We split the salad, the dessert and the cheese plate...small consolation for my backside:) |
Your posts are making me consider another trip to Portugal. We have never been treated so well by locals anywhere we have traveled. And those pastels de nata, a huge favorite of mine.
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Mel, you wrote:
"Helena - what pray tell is codfish swim bladder stew? It was on tonight's menu." Well, a stew is a stew, A way of cooking things. We do it a lot, mainly in South. I know that anciente Romans used to do stew of goat, in Algarve and Alentejo we use a lot stew of lamb, Spanish also have stews, I believe it has some Morocco influence. So if I say "My lunch is going to be a stew", you ask "of what?" and I say of what. It can be a fish stew (the more common), or whatever. In this case it was a stew of the swim bladder of a nice codfish. Swim bladder: that thing the fish uses to swim. Like birds use their wings to fly. Stew is the technique, swim bladder is the main ingredient, and that ingredient is from codfish. I'm here trying to understand what you don't understand, and perhaps it is strange to you that we eat the swim bladders of that (and other) fish. I think that is what surprised you. Well, we do. We also eat their tongues (well... I don't), and a very expensive dish is "caras de bacalhau", codfish faces (literally). There is a (very good and expensive) restaurant in Leça da Palmeira, Matosinhos, named "Chanquinhas", whose most famous dish is the head (just the head) of a fish (the name of the fish is "pescada", google translates to "hake"). Yet, many people from many countries don't eat the head of fishes. It's just a cultural thing. |
Thursdays, thank you, you made me think with this you wrote:
"I really don't get why you have a problem with this. Portuguese don't eat with port, Brits do, and both had a hand in creating port. Now, if you are complaining about drinking port with the main course, rather than with the cheese or just maybe the dessert course, I'm with you." I think it is because I have a long history of people drinking port with the main course. Port can be either an apperitif or a digestif, so I guess it's ok with some appetizers or desserts. But I'm not the best person to talk about it, because I don't like port wine. |
Helena - I recently encountered swim bladders as food in a book on Japanese cuisine, but growing up in England and living in the US I had never heard of eating one before.
I agree that port does not go with the main course! (But I'm sorry that you don't like it.) |
Mel, another excellent set just now. Glad to see that you are enjoying yourselves.
Port wine: back in '88 I came this close to buying my beloved father a dusty old bottle of 1865 Malmsey, while my friend and I were on Madeira. Decided that I could not afford such a gift after all. Carry on! I am done. the following |
Mel,
The excellent Quinta do Noval has a new tasting room down by the pier. I don't know if they serve food items as well as port wine tastings, but you might check it out. https://www.quintadonoval.com/en/wine-shops. |
zebec - I'd be afraid to ask the cost of that 1865 port!
Thank you for the explanation Helena - I'd not seen swim bladder on a menu before, but I'm all for head to tail eating...just as long as I'm not the one doing the eating. Maribel we saw the Quinta do Noval yesterday and may have to look into it. I'm trying to save my best photos for the actual trip report. These are just a taster. |
<<I'm trying to save my best photos for the actual trip report. These are just a taster.>>
Maybe one or two? Pretty please? |
Wow!!! These photos are awesome! I can't imagine how much better your "best photos" will be. Your photos have convinced me we need to return to Portugal. Our first trip was very short, just 5 nights in Lisbon including a day trip to Sintra. But there are so many places we haven't seen that I don't know where to begin after we return from Greece in May! A nice problem to have!
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Mel, regarding that old port (actually 1863), from my '88 Trip Journal notes:
Mon. Dec. 26 Funchal 'Kev and I joined a large Scandinavian group for our tour of the Madeira Wine co. A pretty blonde staffer noticed our lack of comprehension and took us aside for our own private tour with her in English ("Did we tell you that we're both rock musicians?"). Heady addictive tastings: Malvasia, Sercial, Verdelho and Bual. Saw a bottle of '52 'Rainwater' going for $100 Am. Seemed a bargain. But my fave was the dusty bottle of 1863 Malmsey @$300. Nearly bought it for Dad.' I am done. the old notes, the pretty blonde and the ancient port |
What a day. A rather challenging and deeply frustrating six mile hike amongst the vines at Quinta das Carvelahas...good wine and bad food at Vale do Tabua Wine & Tapas on the waterfront...god how I hate feeling like mullet! Blue skies, but crazy windy...dinner booked for later if we can stay awake. These late meals take their toll on us old yanks.
Maribel - passed Quinta do Noval after the bad lunch above, didn't see any food on the menu https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1e4a75b588.jpg Ladies loo, the Vintage House Hotel https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...34d88d9e29.jpg Walking across the bridge to Quinta das Carvalhas https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bc1d8dd8ca.jpg Views from Quinta das Carvalhas https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f0e57ce349.jpg Orange trees https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b4c4785815.jpg Douro River and the Vintage House Hotel https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...60e2c8e62e.jpg Douro River views https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2d29474e99.jpg Views from Quinta das Carvalhas vineyard hike https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fed2640cf1.jpg Views from Quinta das Carvalhas vineyard hike https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e8adf04445.jpg Cherry blossoms https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...349eaa6e7a.jpg Good wine, nice views, terrible food |
@zebec - Malmsey is Madeira, not Port. See: https://topcookingstories.com/librar...sherry-or-port
@Melnq8 - sorry about the food. Some things even good wine cannot redeem. I have never found vineyards very attractive, but the river and trees look good. |
Mel,
Thanks for the warning about Val do Tabua. I'll avoid it like the plague in Nov. The bathroom tiles at the VH are really beautiful. |
Love the views of the Douro! Gorgeous day with wonderful views. Even if the hike was frustrating, you did end up with some great pix. And the wine, at least, sounds like it was satisfying, even if the food wasn’t.
Ditto to what Maribel said - those tiles at the VH are great! |
I have never found vineyards very attractive, but the river and trees look good.
I love the vineyards of NZ and Australia. When they're green that is:) The ones here in the Douro are unlike any I've ever seen, and no doubt much prettier when they're green. |
Winding down in Pinhão.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e2a112cdd2.jpg Riverfront https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ab6aaa472d.jpg Cruise boat along riverfront https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a34976fdce.jpg Grounds of Vintage House Hotel https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7097ce7202.jpg Grounds of Vintage House Hotel |
Mel,
This is how the Douro looks the first week of November- https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5b3ed975d.jpeg On the road to Ervedosa do Douro https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2a240eabb.jpeg The Vintage House pool, always open but too cold to swim! https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ffa947835.jpeg A view of Quinta das Carvalhas from Quinta da Roêda https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d4d161f71.jpeg Fall colors https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0c02a3f26.jpeg Quinta da Roêda vineyards https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4936efb5e.jpeg More fall colors https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3baa11c30.jpeg |
And in October from our perch at Quinta do Pégo
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...799266bd1.jpeg After the harvest the colors explode https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c937d9e71.jpeg The view from the Miradouro de São Leonardo de Galafura, northeast of Régua https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d10e87234.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...692adbf97.jpeg Our "home", the Quinta do Pégo |
Thursdaysd--you are 100% correct. I was in a hurry while typing that post and a little voice inside me was going, "But...but...Madeira and port ain't the same..." Its just that they seem like close cousins.
Mel, your photos especially in this last round, remind us of a certain Portuguese episode on the drone-imagery-and-also-tripod-footage seen on one of our TV French channels. That TV imagery amounts to a kind of Zen-travel experience and the Douro episode was recorded in your exact neighbourhood shown above. That third-last shot must've been so satisfying--you nailed the iconic 'rural vineyard'. I am done. the cork trees and the weird insects that live on them PS try ordering the goat-wine stew 'chanfana' |
wow so beautiful buildings and the art on tiles just loved it
thanks Craig buzztify.com |
Mel,
Loved the pictures of the Douro area, but sounds like it is an area that you wouldn't return to? We will be in Porto for 6 nights in mid May and are contemplating a day trip along the Douro on a river cruise. However not to keen on spending 4-6 hour on a boat as I think I would get bored after a few hours. Thinking of a bus ride to Amarante instead. Although not on the Douro, it is on the Tamega River, a tributary of the Douro and the town is supposed to be beautiful as opposed to some of the more visited towns along the Douro. I could be wrong, just what I have read in some journals. Would welcome any input on Amarante as opposed to the Douro villages. Thank you. |
Thanks Z, but I'll have to pass on that stew.
Maribel - nice to see those vines. And yes, the pool is open, but stuck our fingers in and gasped. Must feel divine in the dead of summer. |
Enjoying your experience in such a ‘different from your usual’ Mel!
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great place
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Mike -
Sorry, can't help with Amarante, but I completely understand your reluctance to sit on a boat all day. We felt the same, not even wanting to commit to a two hour boat ride from Pinhao, which is why we opted for a stay here instead, and then the train ride from Pinhão to Pocinho and return as an alternative. We really enjoyed it and felt it was an overlooked option by many tourists, who take the boats instead. It would also be an option from Porto, but a very long day. A day trip to the Douro from Porto would have been too much for us, although I realize that's exactly what many tourists do. While we've enjoyed our three nights in Pinhão, I think it will be a one off for us. Nothing really to bring us back, port soaked cake notwithstanding. The Vintage House Hotel has been a departure for us too, as we're not usually five star types. It's been interesting, but definitely hasn't knocked our socks off. The number of river cruise boats passing along the Douro has really surprised us. Not my mode of travel (but perhaps an option as I age), but it's been a bit of an eye opener. Good for you for thinking outside of the box; I suspect Maribel might be able to answer your questions about Amarante. |
Originally Posted by Adelaidean
(Post 17351179)
Enjoying your experience in such a ‘different from your usual’ Mel!
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Maribel, I’m enjoying the photos from the Douro and especially those of Quinta do Pego - it’ll be our “home” for 3 nights at the end of May.🥰
Mel, I’m really enjoying your take on the trip so far. It sounds like the Douro region has been pleasant, but not exciting enough. Is that the time of the year and/or staying in the town, rather than in the Douro hills? |
Mel, it sounds like you have not been super-thrilled about the Douro region, and I am curious, like Progol, if this is due to the time of year or where you stayed? When is the Douro the greenest? Doesn't it tend to be chilly and rainy in the spring? If we return to Portugal, I would definitely want to include the Douro region so picking the best time of year would be important.
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Originally Posted by KarenWoo
(Post 17351245)
Mel, it sounds like you have not been super-thrilled about the Douro region, and I am curious, like Progol, if this is due to the time of year or where you stayed? When is the Douro the greenest? Doesn't it tend to be chilly and rainy in the spring? If we return to Portugal, I would definitely want to include the Douro region so picking the best time of year would be important.
As Karen says it’s said to be rainy in spring, so one would imagine everything would be green. I can understand your disappointment, I would be too. |
True, it looks pretty brown, but I'm sure it's a good place to enjoy some good food and wine at a more relaxed pace. And as before, your weather looks great.
We'll be there in very early Oct. Probably not fall colors yet, but more foliage for sure. I was thinking about a 1 or 2 hrs boat trip, but now you added the train as an option...hmmm, definitely more comfortable. Looks empty, but do the windows open? Hard to tell in your photo. |
For me, my enjoyment of the Douro has depended definitely on the time of year.
When we've gone in mid to late October or the very first week of November, the fall colors have been spectacular after the harvest, when the vines just explode in rusts, golds, ochres, and there's a slight chill in the air. It's even gorgeous in the rain. The drive in Nov. from Pinhão up to Ervedosa do Douro on the south side of the river was one of the most beautiful drives I've ever taken. But I think to see the Douro in all its fall splendor, you do need a car. We spent most of our days exploring the high roads and discovering all the Miradouros. And one needs a car to reach the pretty town of Lamego, which is not on the river. It also depends on where I stay. I love the Pégo for its spectacular river views from high above and being able to take my coffee out in the early morning to my little terrace to watch the constantly changing activity on the river and to walk around the vineyards. I also loved the VH because of the staff (and rates are much lower in Nov). I left a little note in Portuguese for the maids every morning with a small tip, and every evening at turn down service time they would bring us a little treat--more port, chocolates, a fruit basket, cookies. "Knock, knock" "Yes?" "Can we come in? We bring a gift" They left us so many little "gifts", we couldn't keep up with them! I have a slightly different view of a cruise on the river only because I didn't do it on one of the large, covered rabelo boats, which are those flat bottom wooden boats that were used to transport the barrels of port down river to the Gaia lodges. We took a sailboat and a vintage schooner, and the trip was more like a "private party", the sail boat with just the 2 of us and again on the schooner with a group of 12. We did take the 2 hour cruise, but I found it relaxing with our small group rather than the typical tourist boat with loud speaker announcements in several languages. The multi day cruise down the Douro starting in Porto wouldn't be for me yet...but I may feel differently in a few more years. As Mel says, it is an eye opener to see these large cruise boats moored in a row at the Pinhão pier. mike, About Amarante--it's a very pretty town with a Saturday open air market and a lovely church and sits on the river. We've never spent a night there, just a stop for a few hours to sightsee and to have one of their famous pastries at the Confeitaria da Ponte, at the bridge. |
Originally Posted by KarenWoo
(Post 17351245)
Mel, it sounds like you have not been super-thrilled about the Douro region, and I am curious, like Progol, if this is due to the time of year or where you stayed? When is the Douro the greenest? Doesn't it tend to be chilly and rainy in the spring? If we return to Portugal, I would definitely want to include the Douro region so picking the best time of year would be important.
Great pics Mel! https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c160165bb.jpeg |
Russ, your photos are just amazingly beautiful!
Another image of the Douro vineyards in November- https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e7e48d8ff.jpeg |
Lovely pix, Russ and Maribel! And Russ, we’ll be in the Douro toward the end of May, so I’m looking forward to green views!
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Originally Posted by KarenWoo
(Post 17351245)
Mel, it sounds like you have not been super-thrilled about the Douro region, and I am curious, like Progol, if this is due to the time of year or where you stayed? When is the Douro the greenest? Doesn't it tend to be chilly and rainy in the spring? If we return to Portugal, I would definitely want to include the Douro region so picking the best time of year would be important.
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Russ, the Douro looks beautiful in May! Love the greenery!
Maribel, the fall colors are gorgeous, too. |
Beautiful photos of Amarante, thursdaysd!
These are the boats that took us on our cruises on the Douro, but I have to add that it's a more expensive option that the usual rabelo boat cruise operated by Magnifico Douro and Companhia Turística do Douro that cost between 10-20 euros, depending on the length. It was a splurge that we enjoyed on a warm, sunny day. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...813e9524e.jpeg The schooner https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...45529b8f7.jpeg The sailboat |
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