Great week in Rome, Italy March 21-28
Mar 29th, 2005, 08:00 AM
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Great week in Rome, Italy March 21-28
Just returned from Rome, Italy last night!! Nice weather!! The only day it rained from March 21- March 28th was on Easter Sunday in Rome. Weather was cool to nice all week..
Sunday March 20, DFW to ORD, ORD to FCO on a 767 took about 9 hours and arrived at approximately 7:30 A.M.
DAY 1, Monday - March 21
Waited at FCO airport for my sister on U.S. Airways flight (about 1 hour) then took off for Rome.
Our apartment in Trastevere, Rome was offered by Roman Reference #371 LARGO ANZANI 50sq.mts., set on the first floor. Central heating, phone (only receiving), wm, tv, a/c, elevator, balcony. Nice one bedroom with a pull out sofa in the living room. The table with chairs, full kitchen, and bath with shower were perfect for three people!
Ad reads: TRASTEVERE - LARGO ANZANI
Nearby Porta Portese market (sundays mornings only), 15 minute walk from Piazza S. Maria in Trastevere, nearby tram #8 riding every 3min. to Largo di Torre Argentina (Pantheon, Navona, Campo de' Fiori);
Unpacked and rested up for a few hours.
Dinner (7:30PM) at the "Ristorante LA Cisterna" in Trastevere. Oldest restaurant in Rome was built in ~1632 in the most ancient part of the city.
We walked up Via Parboni and up Viale D. Trastevere turning on V.S. Michele a Ripa (North) then Right on V. D. Cisterna. 00153 Roma Via Della Cisterna, 13 Tel. 06 582543.
WOW! Very busy area with tons of people everywhere! Holy week ..ROME!! Cool weather. Cars on the go, trains moving down the street “the #8”…Cups and spoons ringing out from within the caffes.
From the guide book: If you like traditional home cooking based on the best regional ingredients, head here. La Cisterna, named for an ancient well from imperial times discovered in the cellar, lies deep in the heart of Trastevere. For more than 75 years, it has been run by the wonderful Simmi family. In good weather, you can dine at sidewalk tables. From the ovens emerge Roman-style suckling lamb that's amazingly tender and seasoned with fresh herbs and virgin olive oil. The fiery hot rigatoni all'amatriciana is served with red-hot peppers, or you might decide on another delectable pasta dish, papalini romana, wide noodles flavored with prosciutto, cheese, and eggs. The shrimp is grilled to perfection, and there's also an array of fresh fish, including flaky sea bass baked with fresh herbs.
La Cisterna's food was very good!. We started with champagne which was offered upon arrival. Then we ordered the first course and shared: Red Wine, and Lasagna. For the second, we all had roast lamb and there was a duo of older men who went from table to table. One played the accordion, the other played the guitar, and both sang. They'd play requests in addition to tunes they felt appropriate. Looking around, all the families were having a great time!! -- I just loved watching the singing and the faces of the different people at the tables while being sung to.
For dessert we had tiramisu, espresso, and cappuccino. Cost - $$
HISTORY: "La Cisterna" restaurant is certainly one of the oldest restaurants of Rome capital. Hans Rath, a German writer in love with Rome, in his book titled "Osterie Romane" (Roman Taverns), dates the origins of La Cisterna back to the year ~1630, when the tavern "osteria" was situated below the street level (four meters below today's street level). In 1700's the street level of the neighborhood Trastevere (named after the famous Roman river, the Tiber) was elevated to avoid the frequent flooding of the adjacent river. This level, called the underground, is where the historical well from the 17th century around which the "osteria" tavern was originally built is situated. The well called by the people of the neighborhood "Cisterna" gives the name to the restaurant.
At the end of the eighteenth century on top of the new street level was built the new building, which still hosts the restaurant "La Cisterna" now.
After World War I, Cesaretto and Marietta Simmi, originally from Trastervere, bought the tavern and transformed it into a worldwide famous restaurant, which maintains the cordial and friendly atmosphere that is typical of Trastevere.
After having had dinner with a background of Roman songs the guests go for a tour in the underground level where the Simmi family has kept all evidences and historical finds of the century, including the wonderful well.
It is also the restaurant tradition at the end of the tour to have the guests throw a coin in the well and celebrate with a glass of champagne to wish for their return to this suggestive place. Therefore, after dinner, we were invited (as all guests are) downstairs to visit the museum which contains the cistern that Roman legions used to drink from. We were again given a glass of champagne to drink.
In summation, this was very good food and best was the service and entertainment. I highly recommend this restaurant. FUN!!
Now to sleep - loooooooonnnnnnnng day!!
Tommorrow the Vatican!!
Sunday March 20, DFW to ORD, ORD to FCO on a 767 took about 9 hours and arrived at approximately 7:30 A.M.
DAY 1, Monday - March 21
Waited at FCO airport for my sister on U.S. Airways flight (about 1 hour) then took off for Rome.
Our apartment in Trastevere, Rome was offered by Roman Reference #371 LARGO ANZANI 50sq.mts., set on the first floor. Central heating, phone (only receiving), wm, tv, a/c, elevator, balcony. Nice one bedroom with a pull out sofa in the living room. The table with chairs, full kitchen, and bath with shower were perfect for three people!
Ad reads: TRASTEVERE - LARGO ANZANI
Nearby Porta Portese market (sundays mornings only), 15 minute walk from Piazza S. Maria in Trastevere, nearby tram #8 riding every 3min. to Largo di Torre Argentina (Pantheon, Navona, Campo de' Fiori);
Unpacked and rested up for a few hours.
Dinner (7:30PM) at the "Ristorante LA Cisterna" in Trastevere. Oldest restaurant in Rome was built in ~1632 in the most ancient part of the city.
We walked up Via Parboni and up Viale D. Trastevere turning on V.S. Michele a Ripa (North) then Right on V. D. Cisterna. 00153 Roma Via Della Cisterna, 13 Tel. 06 582543.
WOW! Very busy area with tons of people everywhere! Holy week ..ROME!! Cool weather. Cars on the go, trains moving down the street “the #8”…Cups and spoons ringing out from within the caffes.
From the guide book: If you like traditional home cooking based on the best regional ingredients, head here. La Cisterna, named for an ancient well from imperial times discovered in the cellar, lies deep in the heart of Trastevere. For more than 75 years, it has been run by the wonderful Simmi family. In good weather, you can dine at sidewalk tables. From the ovens emerge Roman-style suckling lamb that's amazingly tender and seasoned with fresh herbs and virgin olive oil. The fiery hot rigatoni all'amatriciana is served with red-hot peppers, or you might decide on another delectable pasta dish, papalini romana, wide noodles flavored with prosciutto, cheese, and eggs. The shrimp is grilled to perfection, and there's also an array of fresh fish, including flaky sea bass baked with fresh herbs.
La Cisterna's food was very good!. We started with champagne which was offered upon arrival. Then we ordered the first course and shared: Red Wine, and Lasagna. For the second, we all had roast lamb and there was a duo of older men who went from table to table. One played the accordion, the other played the guitar, and both sang. They'd play requests in addition to tunes they felt appropriate. Looking around, all the families were having a great time!! -- I just loved watching the singing and the faces of the different people at the tables while being sung to.
For dessert we had tiramisu, espresso, and cappuccino. Cost - $$
HISTORY: "La Cisterna" restaurant is certainly one of the oldest restaurants of Rome capital. Hans Rath, a German writer in love with Rome, in his book titled "Osterie Romane" (Roman Taverns), dates the origins of La Cisterna back to the year ~1630, when the tavern "osteria" was situated below the street level (four meters below today's street level). In 1700's the street level of the neighborhood Trastevere (named after the famous Roman river, the Tiber) was elevated to avoid the frequent flooding of the adjacent river. This level, called the underground, is where the historical well from the 17th century around which the "osteria" tavern was originally built is situated. The well called by the people of the neighborhood "Cisterna" gives the name to the restaurant.
At the end of the eighteenth century on top of the new street level was built the new building, which still hosts the restaurant "La Cisterna" now.
After World War I, Cesaretto and Marietta Simmi, originally from Trastervere, bought the tavern and transformed it into a worldwide famous restaurant, which maintains the cordial and friendly atmosphere that is typical of Trastevere.
After having had dinner with a background of Roman songs the guests go for a tour in the underground level where the Simmi family has kept all evidences and historical finds of the century, including the wonderful well.
It is also the restaurant tradition at the end of the tour to have the guests throw a coin in the well and celebrate with a glass of champagne to wish for their return to this suggestive place. Therefore, after dinner, we were invited (as all guests are) downstairs to visit the museum which contains the cistern that Roman legions used to drink from. We were again given a glass of champagne to drink.
In summation, this was very good food and best was the service and entertainment. I highly recommend this restaurant. FUN!!
Now to sleep - loooooooonnnnnnnng day!!
Tommorrow the Vatican!!
Mar 29th, 2005, 05:36 PM
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"La Cisterna" sounds expensive...... just $$ in the report..... how about a clue as I do not have an unlimited budget. Going in May and staying Trastevere and enjoying current crop of rome reports
Mar 30th, 2005, 05:10 AM
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Let's see!! Maybe $$$, Oh! about 47 euros each for three people, or approx. 141 euros (service included, but we did give the singers 5 euros after the table visit). Included was 2 glasses of champagne per person (one at the sit down and one after the tour at the end). Two courses (Lasagna per person and large portion of lamb per person with potatoes), a full bottle of red wine, oh, I had one beer, since I do not drink wine most of the time. Dessert for two people.. (I don't usually take desert).. espresso for me, and 2 cappuccino for the girls. It was not cheap, but I loved it!
Mar 30th, 2005, 08:31 AM
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DAY 2, Tuesday - March 22
We awoke to the “DJ” in the apartment upstairs playing the Italian radio loud enough for the entire apartment complex! And on the radio, “Carlos Santana, Oye Como Va!! Nice!!
After cleaning up, we proceeded outside. We noticed a sign on the building as we departed, it read “Neuropsychology”. Wonder what past life this building had?? Walking, we stopped at a local caffe on the corner of V.P. Sterbini and Vale D Trastevere. The weather was cool for the morning and sunny as we sat outside on the sidewalk drinking an espresso and cappuccinos, watching the people, trams, cars and buses. Another very busy day in the area!
Next door at a tobacco shop we purchased 3 bus/metro tickets for the week. Although, no one ever asked to see them during the whole week of riding around on the busses, metro, and the #8 tram. (After validating the tickets, we never really needed them after that, save someone asking to see them, which didn’t happen.) But, it is nice to enter the busses, trams, and metro without searching for coins.
The #8 stopped 5 times to the Tiber then 3 more times after the river to the end of the line, at V.D. Torre Argentina and V.D. Plebiscito. (Largo d. Torre Argentina). In the square as we exited the tram were our first view of Roman Ruins and cats! Ruins, of course, located one level below the street. I think this is a picture of the location. http://www.romancats.de/
On the bus, we headed West on “Corso Vittorio Emanuale II” turned Left then Right and stopped about one block to the South side of St. Peter’s Square. The square was packed with people as we entered and a long line formed for a security check prior to entrance to St. Peter’s Basilica. Inside we took pictures while a mass was starting during our visit. Very nice!
After, we exited St. Peters Square to the North and walked up “Via Porta Angelica” and around to the Vatican Museum Entrance. P. stopped to talk to a girl she meet in the plane coming over! Inside, we toured the maps, rugs, and paintings, then into the “Cappella Sistina”. No pictures or talking in the Cappella Sistina. Looking up, it appears to me that the painted figures were three dimensional!
Back-tracking we returned to St. Peter’s Square where we meet a nun from LA. Talking, she told us we should obtain tickets for Easter mass from the Swiss Guards at the North End of the Square. Well, after working up my nerve, I marched past the ropes and up about 50 steps, where the Swiss guards were on duty. After a salute by the guards, I requested three tickets for the mass on Easter (in English). The guard spoke English very well, and asked if I had sent a letter from my church. I replied “no”, but was still able to obtain three tickets to the mass. (However, as we entered the mass on Easter Sunday, no one ever asked us for the tickets). We then visited the Vatican gift shop.
Back on the bus we rode all the way to the Temini Station. Walking, we proceeded down “Via Gioberti” to Santa Maria Maggiore. Inside mass was going on and we stopped for part of the mass. Again walking we strolled down Via Merulana to V.S. Vito. It was approx. 6:30 PM. On a mission, we stopped at Trattoria Monti and made reservations for 8:00PM. Till then we shopped the nearby stores.
From the Guide book: Trattoria Monti , famiglia Camerucci, Via San Vito, 13/a, phone 064466573. This satisfying trattoria features food from the Marches, the lovely, little-visited area northeast of Rome on the Adriatic. Not far from Santa Maria Maggiore, the Camerucci family runs one of the most dependable, moderately priced trattorias in the city.
Nestled away on the road between Santa Maria Maggiore and Piazza Vittorio is this tiny culinary gem. Specializing in traditional cooking from the Marche region, the chef is especially proud of tortello di rosso d'uovo, or pasta stuffed with ricotta cheese and spinach then oven roasted with hard-boiled eggs inside. Another mouthwatering delicacy is coniglio tartufato, or rabbit stuffed with pork and spices, drenched in truffle-based olive oil and served with roasted potatoes.
Try some of their specialties from the Marche region, such as homemade soups with seasonal vegetables or timballo di coniglio con patate (rabbit casserole with potatoes). The house white wine is a very good Verdicchio from the Marche.
We started with some Chianti red wine. Next we ordered Ravioli stuffed with ricotta cheese and spinach, and Lasagna to share. For the second we ordered (two) rolled beef stuffed with artichokes and (one) Cod fish in tomato sauce. Also ordered was, two desserts, espresso and two cappuccinos. Total 105.50 euros. Great food and good service! We should have tried the rabbit!
Back to the apartment, tomorrow we day trip to Florence!!
We awoke to the “DJ” in the apartment upstairs playing the Italian radio loud enough for the entire apartment complex! And on the radio, “Carlos Santana, Oye Como Va!! Nice!!
After cleaning up, we proceeded outside. We noticed a sign on the building as we departed, it read “Neuropsychology”. Wonder what past life this building had?? Walking, we stopped at a local caffe on the corner of V.P. Sterbini and Vale D Trastevere. The weather was cool for the morning and sunny as we sat outside on the sidewalk drinking an espresso and cappuccinos, watching the people, trams, cars and buses. Another very busy day in the area!
Next door at a tobacco shop we purchased 3 bus/metro tickets for the week. Although, no one ever asked to see them during the whole week of riding around on the busses, metro, and the #8 tram. (After validating the tickets, we never really needed them after that, save someone asking to see them, which didn’t happen.) But, it is nice to enter the busses, trams, and metro without searching for coins.
The #8 stopped 5 times to the Tiber then 3 more times after the river to the end of the line, at V.D. Torre Argentina and V.D. Plebiscito. (Largo d. Torre Argentina). In the square as we exited the tram were our first view of Roman Ruins and cats! Ruins, of course, located one level below the street. I think this is a picture of the location. http://www.romancats.de/
On the bus, we headed West on “Corso Vittorio Emanuale II” turned Left then Right and stopped about one block to the South side of St. Peter’s Square. The square was packed with people as we entered and a long line formed for a security check prior to entrance to St. Peter’s Basilica. Inside we took pictures while a mass was starting during our visit. Very nice!
After, we exited St. Peters Square to the North and walked up “Via Porta Angelica” and around to the Vatican Museum Entrance. P. stopped to talk to a girl she meet in the plane coming over! Inside, we toured the maps, rugs, and paintings, then into the “Cappella Sistina”. No pictures or talking in the Cappella Sistina. Looking up, it appears to me that the painted figures were three dimensional!
Back-tracking we returned to St. Peter’s Square where we meet a nun from LA. Talking, she told us we should obtain tickets for Easter mass from the Swiss Guards at the North End of the Square. Well, after working up my nerve, I marched past the ropes and up about 50 steps, where the Swiss guards were on duty. After a salute by the guards, I requested three tickets for the mass on Easter (in English). The guard spoke English very well, and asked if I had sent a letter from my church. I replied “no”, but was still able to obtain three tickets to the mass. (However, as we entered the mass on Easter Sunday, no one ever asked us for the tickets). We then visited the Vatican gift shop.
Back on the bus we rode all the way to the Temini Station. Walking, we proceeded down “Via Gioberti” to Santa Maria Maggiore. Inside mass was going on and we stopped for part of the mass. Again walking we strolled down Via Merulana to V.S. Vito. It was approx. 6:30 PM. On a mission, we stopped at Trattoria Monti and made reservations for 8:00PM. Till then we shopped the nearby stores.
From the Guide book: Trattoria Monti , famiglia Camerucci, Via San Vito, 13/a, phone 064466573. This satisfying trattoria features food from the Marches, the lovely, little-visited area northeast of Rome on the Adriatic. Not far from Santa Maria Maggiore, the Camerucci family runs one of the most dependable, moderately priced trattorias in the city.
Nestled away on the road between Santa Maria Maggiore and Piazza Vittorio is this tiny culinary gem. Specializing in traditional cooking from the Marche region, the chef is especially proud of tortello di rosso d'uovo, or pasta stuffed with ricotta cheese and spinach then oven roasted with hard-boiled eggs inside. Another mouthwatering delicacy is coniglio tartufato, or rabbit stuffed with pork and spices, drenched in truffle-based olive oil and served with roasted potatoes.
Try some of their specialties from the Marche region, such as homemade soups with seasonal vegetables or timballo di coniglio con patate (rabbit casserole with potatoes). The house white wine is a very good Verdicchio from the Marche.
We started with some Chianti red wine. Next we ordered Ravioli stuffed with ricotta cheese and spinach, and Lasagna to share. For the second we ordered (two) rolled beef stuffed with artichokes and (one) Cod fish in tomato sauce. Also ordered was, two desserts, espresso and two cappuccinos. Total 105.50 euros. Great food and good service! We should have tried the rabbit!
Back to the apartment, tomorrow we day trip to Florence!!
Mar 30th, 2005, 09:32 AM
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Thanks Ellenem! Nice place Trattoria Monti. Closed now, (I think) Sunday and not Tuesday!! We were there on Tuesday. Waiters were nice. One tried to get us to order the Rabbit, their speciality! We never eaten this before tried the beef and Cod instead.
Mar 31st, 2005, 08:47 AM
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DAY 3, Wednesday - March 23 - Rome – Day trip to Firenze
Up at mid-morning, we jumped into the car turning south on “Vale D. Trastevere”, zigzagging, and meandering we made our way to the Autostrada (somehow), stopping once to ask a local girl for directions. We were on the south part of the Autostrada loop that circles Roma. Uscita 27 leads to a nice road heading north to the “Trastevere” area. Uscita 26 goes to “Christopher Columbus” and then into Roma. This is a good road that navigates by many modern facilities, museums, and offices near Roma. Uscita 30 branches the Autostrada East to FCO (T93 Autostrada Roma-Fiumicino). At A01 (Autostrada Milano-Napoli, G.R.A.) we picked up our “biglietto” for the toll.
Here’s a link, click on the camera’s to see real time pictures of the autstrada throughout Italy. Nice!
http://www.autostrade.it/autostrade/...paRef=centro_4
Near Firenze, we rolled up to the pay booth with signs “Viacard, Telepass, Fast Pay, Pagamento con operatore”. Toll was 20 euros each way and you can either pay an operator (Pagamento con operatore) or select a lane where you insert the ticket then the euros into a machine (Fast Pay). At “Firenze Nord” we took the A11 Firenze exit.
We found a good spot to park to the north end of “Piazza della Independenza”. The parking lanes were marked with white stripes (free parking). Also nearby were parking lanes with blue stripes (pay parking).
Walking we proceeded down “Via Nationale” then left on “Via XXVII Aprile, Via d. Arazzieri” past “Piazza San Marco” to the “Galleria dell Accademia”. The weather was really nice, cool and sunny. Nearing the Accademia, we could see a long line of tourists waiting for entrance along “Via Ricasoli”. Surprisingly, though, the wait took only about 15 minutes before we entered. I waited in line, while the girls shopped nearby. Inside we strolled and beheld the sculptures and paintings by Michelangelo and others.
From the guide book: The Gallery is particularly famous for its sculptures by Michelangelo: the Prisoners, the St. Matthew and, especially, the statue of David which was transferred here, to the specially designed tribune, from Piazza della Signoria in 1873.
In the adjacent rooms, which were part of two former convents, important works of art were collected here in the 19th century from the Academy of Design, the Academy of Fine Arts and from suppressed convents.
The holdings comprise mostly religious paintings by major artists working in and around Florence between the mid-13th and the late 16th centuries. The collection is especially important for its gold-ground paintings. There is also a collection of sculptures in plaster by the 19th-century sculptors Lorenzo Bartolini and Luigi Pampaloni, besides a section of Russian icons.
After an hour we proceeded to S. Maria d. Fiore (Duomo) encircling the entire building and taking pictures. Crossing the street we stopped to see the “Battistero” east side doors, “The gates to Heaven”.
More from the guide book: The octagonal Battistero, situated directly across from Il Duomo, dates back to at least the 6th century. One of the oldest buildings still standing in Firenze, it probably was constructed on top of an ancient Roman palace.
The real splendor of the Battistero is the large bronze doors that lead into the building. The southern doors were commisioned first, and designed by the busy artist Pisano. The northern and truly wonderful eastern doors were both created by Ghiberti. The door panels depict many biblical stories, and the eastern doors, also referred to as the Gates of Paradise, have some amazing detail in their depiction of Old Testament histories.
Walking south on “Via Proconsolo” we turned left on “Via della Vigna Vecchia” and stopped at “Acqua al 2”. http://www.acquaal2.it/restyle/ing/indexing.html
However, the restaurant was fully booked by the time we arrived, so we back-tracked north on “Via del Proconsolo” and stopped at the “Caffe Bigallo” for La Cena.
Here is the link: www.caffebigallo.com
06.5818899. Caffe' Bigallo, Via del Proconsolo, 73/75 R - 50122 - Firenze
The restaurant offers a rich menu of dishes typical and a selection of dishes that recall the traditional kitchen Tuscany and Mediterranean.
For dinner we ordered: Chianti wine, Salad (one of their salads?), Penne all’ arrabbiata (Spicy Penne), Lasagne Vegetariane (Vegetable Lasagna), Zuppa di Verdura (Vegetables Soup), Controfiletto al pepe verde (sirlon with green pepper), and Controfiletto alla griglia (grilled sirlon with artichokes and green beans). Also ordered was, two desserts, dui espresso and two cappuccinos. Total 70.80 euros.
As we were eating dessert about 30 high school kids from Las Vegas, NV raided the place, totally filling every table. Great food!
I wish we could have made it to “Acqua al 2”. Drove back to the apartment in Rome!
Tomorrow we head south to Saint Philomena to stay over night in the Sanctuary!!
(We haven’t eaten any ice cream yet!!??)
Up at mid-morning, we jumped into the car turning south on “Vale D. Trastevere”, zigzagging, and meandering we made our way to the Autostrada (somehow), stopping once to ask a local girl for directions. We were on the south part of the Autostrada loop that circles Roma. Uscita 27 leads to a nice road heading north to the “Trastevere” area. Uscita 26 goes to “Christopher Columbus” and then into Roma. This is a good road that navigates by many modern facilities, museums, and offices near Roma. Uscita 30 branches the Autostrada East to FCO (T93 Autostrada Roma-Fiumicino). At A01 (Autostrada Milano-Napoli, G.R.A.) we picked up our “biglietto” for the toll.
Here’s a link, click on the camera’s to see real time pictures of the autstrada throughout Italy. Nice!
http://www.autostrade.it/autostrade/...paRef=centro_4
Near Firenze, we rolled up to the pay booth with signs “Viacard, Telepass, Fast Pay, Pagamento con operatore”. Toll was 20 euros each way and you can either pay an operator (Pagamento con operatore) or select a lane where you insert the ticket then the euros into a machine (Fast Pay). At “Firenze Nord” we took the A11 Firenze exit.
We found a good spot to park to the north end of “Piazza della Independenza”. The parking lanes were marked with white stripes (free parking). Also nearby were parking lanes with blue stripes (pay parking).
Walking we proceeded down “Via Nationale” then left on “Via XXVII Aprile, Via d. Arazzieri” past “Piazza San Marco” to the “Galleria dell Accademia”. The weather was really nice, cool and sunny. Nearing the Accademia, we could see a long line of tourists waiting for entrance along “Via Ricasoli”. Surprisingly, though, the wait took only about 15 minutes before we entered. I waited in line, while the girls shopped nearby. Inside we strolled and beheld the sculptures and paintings by Michelangelo and others.
From the guide book: The Gallery is particularly famous for its sculptures by Michelangelo: the Prisoners, the St. Matthew and, especially, the statue of David which was transferred here, to the specially designed tribune, from Piazza della Signoria in 1873.
In the adjacent rooms, which were part of two former convents, important works of art were collected here in the 19th century from the Academy of Design, the Academy of Fine Arts and from suppressed convents.
The holdings comprise mostly religious paintings by major artists working in and around Florence between the mid-13th and the late 16th centuries. The collection is especially important for its gold-ground paintings. There is also a collection of sculptures in plaster by the 19th-century sculptors Lorenzo Bartolini and Luigi Pampaloni, besides a section of Russian icons.
After an hour we proceeded to S. Maria d. Fiore (Duomo) encircling the entire building and taking pictures. Crossing the street we stopped to see the “Battistero” east side doors, “The gates to Heaven”.
More from the guide book: The octagonal Battistero, situated directly across from Il Duomo, dates back to at least the 6th century. One of the oldest buildings still standing in Firenze, it probably was constructed on top of an ancient Roman palace.
The real splendor of the Battistero is the large bronze doors that lead into the building. The southern doors were commisioned first, and designed by the busy artist Pisano. The northern and truly wonderful eastern doors were both created by Ghiberti. The door panels depict many biblical stories, and the eastern doors, also referred to as the Gates of Paradise, have some amazing detail in their depiction of Old Testament histories.
Walking south on “Via Proconsolo” we turned left on “Via della Vigna Vecchia” and stopped at “Acqua al 2”. http://www.acquaal2.it/restyle/ing/indexing.html
However, the restaurant was fully booked by the time we arrived, so we back-tracked north on “Via del Proconsolo” and stopped at the “Caffe Bigallo” for La Cena.
Here is the link: www.caffebigallo.com
06.5818899. Caffe' Bigallo, Via del Proconsolo, 73/75 R - 50122 - Firenze
The restaurant offers a rich menu of dishes typical and a selection of dishes that recall the traditional kitchen Tuscany and Mediterranean.
For dinner we ordered: Chianti wine, Salad (one of their salads?), Penne all’ arrabbiata (Spicy Penne), Lasagne Vegetariane (Vegetable Lasagna), Zuppa di Verdura (Vegetables Soup), Controfiletto al pepe verde (sirlon with green pepper), and Controfiletto alla griglia (grilled sirlon with artichokes and green beans). Also ordered was, two desserts, dui espresso and two cappuccinos. Total 70.80 euros.
As we were eating dessert about 30 high school kids from Las Vegas, NV raided the place, totally filling every table. Great food!
I wish we could have made it to “Acqua al 2”. Drove back to the apartment in Rome!
Tomorrow we head south to Saint Philomena to stay over night in the Sanctuary!!
(We haven’t eaten any ice cream yet!!??)
Mar 31st, 2005, 02:00 PM
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Hi Nutella. The weekly transit pass costed about 24 euros (each person).
I assumed that once validated that it is valid for the next consecutive 7 days. We purchased our tickets then minutes later validated them upon first use.
I assumed that once validated that it is valid for the next consecutive 7 days. We purchased our tickets then minutes later validated them upon first use.
Apr 4th, 2005, 06:36 AM
#12
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DAY 4, Thursday - March 24 - Trip to the Sanctuary of St. Philomena
Up at mid-morning, we again jumped into the car turning south on “Vale D. Trastevere”, stopping a few miles down the road prior to the Autostrada. The weather was just perfect, sunny and warm, a very nice morning with many people in the streets, shopping and walking. Lots of traffic on the roadways.
We stopped at a pizza shop that a local had pointed out to us to grab some quick food. We tried three types of the many pizzas that were displayed in the glass case, with espresso and sodas to drink. Upon paying the bill, the shop person also gave us some dessert pizza to try. Chocolate pudding on pizza!
Backtracking we purchased some flowers from a sidewalk shop to take to the Sanctuary.
In the car we headed south on the Autostrada loop that circles Roma, then onto A1. At A01 (Autostrada Milano-Napoli, G.R.A.) we picked up our “biglietto” for the toll. Here are the directions and link to the Sanctuary: http://www.philomena.it/
If you drive from Rome to the Sanctuary, you must take the motorway Rome -Naples A1 and then the motorway Naples- Bari A 16, after about 25 minuets drive from Naples you will find the indication on the motorway and also the outing which you should come out of the motorway Baiano, once out of the motor way on the right side you will find indications for the Sanctuary 5 minutes drive and you will find Mugnano del Cardinale (Avellino) and also the Sanctuary.
Upon our arrival, we toured the church and a nun showed us to our rooms. They were very cold (but warmed up after the heat was turned on after about an hour), with single beds, a small night stand and lamp. Each room also has a private bathroom with a standup shower. Here are their rates:
“We do have a pilgrim home here at the Sanctuary where you could reserve rooms. The cost to stay in the Sanctuary's pilgrim house per day is €uro 45.00 for bed, breakfast lunch and dinner, €uro 40.00 for bed breakfast and one dinner, and just for bed and breakfast €euro 35.00.”
Prior to dinner, we walked though the small town of Avellino, shopping in the small shops, we purchased an alarm clock for use later (so we could catch our plane next Monday!).
Dinner was in the church dining hall. Upon arrival we noticed that one other family was staying at the Sanctuary with us that night. For dinner, we had wine, bread, vegetable soup, cheese, meat (like pepperoni), and fruit for dessert.
Oh, also throughout the night, the church bells would ring out the hour, the half hour, and I think there was a bell for each 15 minutes. Didn’t stop me from sleeping well though!
Tomorrow, we tour the Amalfi coast!
Up at mid-morning, we again jumped into the car turning south on “Vale D. Trastevere”, stopping a few miles down the road prior to the Autostrada. The weather was just perfect, sunny and warm, a very nice morning with many people in the streets, shopping and walking. Lots of traffic on the roadways.
We stopped at a pizza shop that a local had pointed out to us to grab some quick food. We tried three types of the many pizzas that were displayed in the glass case, with espresso and sodas to drink. Upon paying the bill, the shop person also gave us some dessert pizza to try. Chocolate pudding on pizza!
Backtracking we purchased some flowers from a sidewalk shop to take to the Sanctuary.
In the car we headed south on the Autostrada loop that circles Roma, then onto A1. At A01 (Autostrada Milano-Napoli, G.R.A.) we picked up our “biglietto” for the toll. Here are the directions and link to the Sanctuary: http://www.philomena.it/
If you drive from Rome to the Sanctuary, you must take the motorway Rome -Naples A1 and then the motorway Naples- Bari A 16, after about 25 minuets drive from Naples you will find the indication on the motorway and also the outing which you should come out of the motorway Baiano, once out of the motor way on the right side you will find indications for the Sanctuary 5 minutes drive and you will find Mugnano del Cardinale (Avellino) and also the Sanctuary.
Upon our arrival, we toured the church and a nun showed us to our rooms. They were very cold (but warmed up after the heat was turned on after about an hour), with single beds, a small night stand and lamp. Each room also has a private bathroom with a standup shower. Here are their rates:
“We do have a pilgrim home here at the Sanctuary where you could reserve rooms. The cost to stay in the Sanctuary's pilgrim house per day is €uro 45.00 for bed, breakfast lunch and dinner, €uro 40.00 for bed breakfast and one dinner, and just for bed and breakfast €euro 35.00.”
Prior to dinner, we walked though the small town of Avellino, shopping in the small shops, we purchased an alarm clock for use later (so we could catch our plane next Monday!).
Dinner was in the church dining hall. Upon arrival we noticed that one other family was staying at the Sanctuary with us that night. For dinner, we had wine, bread, vegetable soup, cheese, meat (like pepperoni), and fruit for dessert.
Oh, also throughout the night, the church bells would ring out the hour, the half hour, and I think there was a bell for each 15 minutes. Didn’t stop me from sleeping well though!
Tomorrow, we tour the Amalfi coast!
Apr 4th, 2005, 10:44 AM
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DAY 5, Friday - March 25 - Amalfi Coast
Up fairly early, I proceeded outside to the café next door to the Sanctuary for an Espresso, now hooked on the taste, and thinking how I would go back to just drinking coffee in the mornings once back home. (I’m thinking of purchasing a Delonghi BAR 140, but then, one would also need a good grinder to make great espresso with crema. Not cheap).
Prior to breakfast, we walked through the country town once again. We stopped to take pictures and visited a church on the main road. This town, quite a change from the crowds and traffic in Roma, offered a break from the city touring. All around us, we could see mountains and farm land with rolling hills. At the “American Café” we stopped to purchase some ice cream. (One half Blueberry and one half Strawberry). Inside, I noticed that we were the only Americans in the American café. Very good and cheaper then Roma prices.
Mugnano del Cardinale, Province of Avellino, Campania – Italy.
Birthplace of archaeologist and literary critic Pasquale Bianchi, this little center dates back to the late Middle Ages; in the 14th century it was under the Santa Casa dell'Annunziata of Naples, then thanks to Charles III Bourbon, who had the main road Via Regia delle Puglie restored, the whole territory enjoyed a new economy. Situated along the road to the sanctuary of Montevergine, a favorite destination of pilgrims, Mugnano is known for its production of excellent fruit, nuts, and pork products.
A historical outline: Risen between the XII and XIII century from the fusion of different villages, among which litto, mugnano was in Avella's Barony until 1312, when it was given as feud to the abbey of Montevergine, and from this, in 1562, Mugnano passed to the holy home of Annunziata in Naples. In the built-up area noteworthy is the massive size of the palace of the foresteria, erected at the end of the fifteenth century by the Cardinal Giovanni D'Aragona; from this palace, called '' of the Cardinal '', derived the second part of the name of this small town, and the Sanctuary of S. Filomena, a building of the nineteenth-century with a distinctive view from the two bell towers, which embodies the church of the seventeenth century S. Maria delle Grazie.
Monumenti/Monuments: Chiesa di Montevergine, Chiesa dell'Ascensione, Chiesetta dei Preti, Convitto di S. Pietro a Cesarano, Santuario di S. Filomena.
Breakfast at the Sanctuary: Coffee, bread, and fruit.
In the car, we headed west, then south on the Autostrada, A16, then A30, to Salerno. At Salerno, we followed the “Amalfi Coast” signs to the coast road. And yes, Europe's Most Beautiful Stretch of Coast did not disappoint us!!
This coastline is dotted with small picturesque villages and towns stacked precariously on steep, pale rocky cliffs plunging sheer into the the Mediterranean Sea. Legend has it that Hercules loved a nymph called Amalfi and when she died, Hercules buried her in the world's most beautiful place and, in her honor, he gave the place her name.
By car, this road offers some dramatic and breathtaking scenery! (I loved Southern Italy). However, the super narrow serpentine road that winds around the cliffs is by no mean easy to drive! We were watching the mirrors at each corner for on coming cars prior to turning right (clockwise) around blind curves! At some places it is so narrow that two vehicles can hardly pass and have to back up to yield way to each other. And if a bus is coming down the road.. yikes!!
At Amalfi, we turned inland and took the mountain road back to the Autostrada A3, then onto A1 and back to Roma where we parked the car and rested up before dinner in the apartment.
Taking the #8 tram and then walking, we made our way to the Trevi Fountain. Evening was now over taking the city, but the area was packed with people taking pictures. We stepped down the steps and made our way to the waters edge. Turning around we tossed coins over our shoulders and into the fountain. Now what to eat??
Near the fountain, we were directed to the “Bruschetteria di Nonna Papera”, vic. dei modelli 60” by a promoter (person handing out cards). The specialty of the restaurant: a bruschetta, which is a steamed, giant slice of bread with olive oil, tomatoes, garlic, and whatever you can imagine on it. Here is our bill:
3 Servizio al tav 4.50
1 Acqua 1 litro 2.00
1 Birra media 4.50
1 Fanta 3.00
1 Vino rosso 1 lt. 12.00
1 Toscana 3.10
1 Insalata 9.00
1 Gnocchi alla Bolognese 7.75
1 Gnocchi alla Sorrentina 8.00
1 Lasagna 7.00
1 Expresso 1.80
1 Cappuccino 3.50
1 Tiramisu 4.65
Totale 70.80
Great food! Tomorrow we tour more of Rome!
Up fairly early, I proceeded outside to the café next door to the Sanctuary for an Espresso, now hooked on the taste, and thinking how I would go back to just drinking coffee in the mornings once back home. (I’m thinking of purchasing a Delonghi BAR 140, but then, one would also need a good grinder to make great espresso with crema. Not cheap).
Prior to breakfast, we walked through the country town once again. We stopped to take pictures and visited a church on the main road. This town, quite a change from the crowds and traffic in Roma, offered a break from the city touring. All around us, we could see mountains and farm land with rolling hills. At the “American Café” we stopped to purchase some ice cream. (One half Blueberry and one half Strawberry). Inside, I noticed that we were the only Americans in the American café. Very good and cheaper then Roma prices.
Mugnano del Cardinale, Province of Avellino, Campania – Italy.
Birthplace of archaeologist and literary critic Pasquale Bianchi, this little center dates back to the late Middle Ages; in the 14th century it was under the Santa Casa dell'Annunziata of Naples, then thanks to Charles III Bourbon, who had the main road Via Regia delle Puglie restored, the whole territory enjoyed a new economy. Situated along the road to the sanctuary of Montevergine, a favorite destination of pilgrims, Mugnano is known for its production of excellent fruit, nuts, and pork products.
A historical outline: Risen between the XII and XIII century from the fusion of different villages, among which litto, mugnano was in Avella's Barony until 1312, when it was given as feud to the abbey of Montevergine, and from this, in 1562, Mugnano passed to the holy home of Annunziata in Naples. In the built-up area noteworthy is the massive size of the palace of the foresteria, erected at the end of the fifteenth century by the Cardinal Giovanni D'Aragona; from this palace, called '' of the Cardinal '', derived the second part of the name of this small town, and the Sanctuary of S. Filomena, a building of the nineteenth-century with a distinctive view from the two bell towers, which embodies the church of the seventeenth century S. Maria delle Grazie.
Monumenti/Monuments: Chiesa di Montevergine, Chiesa dell'Ascensione, Chiesetta dei Preti, Convitto di S. Pietro a Cesarano, Santuario di S. Filomena.
Breakfast at the Sanctuary: Coffee, bread, and fruit.
In the car, we headed west, then south on the Autostrada, A16, then A30, to Salerno. At Salerno, we followed the “Amalfi Coast” signs to the coast road. And yes, Europe's Most Beautiful Stretch of Coast did not disappoint us!!
This coastline is dotted with small picturesque villages and towns stacked precariously on steep, pale rocky cliffs plunging sheer into the the Mediterranean Sea. Legend has it that Hercules loved a nymph called Amalfi and when she died, Hercules buried her in the world's most beautiful place and, in her honor, he gave the place her name.
By car, this road offers some dramatic and breathtaking scenery! (I loved Southern Italy). However, the super narrow serpentine road that winds around the cliffs is by no mean easy to drive! We were watching the mirrors at each corner for on coming cars prior to turning right (clockwise) around blind curves! At some places it is so narrow that two vehicles can hardly pass and have to back up to yield way to each other. And if a bus is coming down the road.. yikes!!
At Amalfi, we turned inland and took the mountain road back to the Autostrada A3, then onto A1 and back to Roma where we parked the car and rested up before dinner in the apartment.
Taking the #8 tram and then walking, we made our way to the Trevi Fountain. Evening was now over taking the city, but the area was packed with people taking pictures. We stepped down the steps and made our way to the waters edge. Turning around we tossed coins over our shoulders and into the fountain. Now what to eat??
Near the fountain, we were directed to the “Bruschetteria di Nonna Papera”, vic. dei modelli 60” by a promoter (person handing out cards). The specialty of the restaurant: a bruschetta, which is a steamed, giant slice of bread with olive oil, tomatoes, garlic, and whatever you can imagine on it. Here is our bill:
3 Servizio al tav 4.50
1 Acqua 1 litro 2.00
1 Birra media 4.50
1 Fanta 3.00
1 Vino rosso 1 lt. 12.00
1 Toscana 3.10
1 Insalata 9.00
1 Gnocchi alla Bolognese 7.75
1 Gnocchi alla Sorrentina 8.00
1 Lasagna 7.00
1 Expresso 1.80
1 Cappuccino 3.50
1 Tiramisu 4.65
Totale 70.80
Great food! Tomorrow we tour more of Rome!
Apr 5th, 2005, 10:16 AM
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DAY 6, Saturday - March 26 - Ancient Rome
After taking the tram #8, we walked up “Torre Argentina” to the Pantheon. At the “Piazza della Rotonda” we stopped and sat in the outside café that faces the front of the Pantheon. (There was a McDonald’s next door, but we didn’t travel this far for a McDonalds breakfast). We shared an espresso, cappuccinos, a ham and cheese sandwich, and apple pie with cream on top. Afterwards, we toured the inside of the Pantheon.
Next we walked up “Via del Aracoeli”, stopping at a gelateria to taste the gelato. (Our order: one half pistachio and one half lemon, really good!!). With gelato in tow, we walked up the steps of Michelangelo's Cordonata (Staircase leading to Piazza del Campidoglio), then forward through the Roman Forum to the Colosseum. Two Romans were dressed like Roman Soldiers near the Colosseum and for the price one could get a picture with them. When I asked for a free picture, he said “tomorrow 9:30”! Here are some links:
http://www.abcroma.com/ItCampid.asp
http://www.stuardtclarkesrome.com/stairs.htm
http://www.forumromanum.org/index2.html
Next we proceeded up “Via N. Salvi”, then north to “San Pietro in Vincoli” to see Moses.
But, Saint Peter in Chains was closed for the afternoon until 3:30PM. We vowed to return, and headed north down a large flight of stars to “Largo Venosta” and up “Via Giovanni” to “Via S. Martino al Monti” and to the “Ristorante La Forchetta D’oro”.
We shared ravioli in walnut sauce, spaghetti with small clams, spaghetti with tomatoes and mozzarella, water, and flan for dessert.
After eating, we entered Santa Prassede (Saint Pudenziana's sister) on “Via d. S. Prassede” and then the Basilica Santa Maria Maggiore. Backtracking, we then toured San Pietro in Vincoli to see Moses, then, proceeded back to the Colosseum, where we jumped onto the subway to Termini station. At the station we switched trains (B to A) on our way to the Spanish Steps. At Termini, train A was just packed! As the doors opened a wall of people entered the train. We were like sardines on this train with all the peoples bodies pressed together filling the train with every last soul that could be jammed into the space!
http://www.panoramas.dk/fullscreen/fullscreen46.html
http://roma.katolsk.no/pietrovincoli.htm
http://www2.siba.fi/~kkoskim/rooma/pages/SPRASSED.HTM
We arrived at the Spanish Steps while the sun was just starting to set. All the steps were filled with people sitting and watching the mobs of people strolling by the fountain at the base of the steps. After taking some pictures, we proceeded south walking down “Via del Corso” to “Via d. Plebiscito”.
Walking east then north we arrived at “La Danesina di Annalisa Polo”, Via del Governo Vecchio, for dinner.
From their ad:
“The flower to the eyelet de the Danesina is the cooked Danish meat on lavica stone. They do not lack, but, local specialties like the maialino to latte and the schiaffoni to the amatriciana. Meat first quality and made fresh paste in house. The Danesina, graceful small restaurant from the fresh and peasant atmosphere to two steps from the splendid Navona Public square are the flower to the eyelet de. A bomboniera authentication in which the servants only genuine food prepared with natural ingredients and following simple prescriptions. The rich one menu previews rich specialties of the sapori of the roman kitchen and plates made up of Danish meat (from which the name of the premises) cooked on lavica stone.”
“It can be begun by hand with appetizers of gratinate and grilled mixed verdure, prosciutto raw cut, mozzarella of bufala or assays of sea, all many sfiziosi. Between first they detach the schiaffoni to the amatriciana, the paste to the "danesina" with pomodorini soothe and fresh basil, garlic, extra oil vergine of olive and chili pepper, the spaghetti to the carbonara, the rigatoni with pajata or the pens to the angry one. Between the second plates they advise the tail to the vaccinara, the trippa, the maialino to the latte ones, the cut one of danesina, the lobster, the mazzancolle. All it can be accompanied from a red one of Montalcino. Excellent also the cakies made in house like the tiramisù or the crostata one. With table cloths to small checks greens, the cassettoni and the tables in wood, it is the ideal place for who is to the search of the sapori of the true served Mediterranean kitchen in a familiar and kind atmosphere. Just for these characteristics the Danesina is every day attended from one varied customers, attracted from the possibility to choose, also to lunch, menu tourist and always various plates of the day. The staff, all to the feminine one, adds a touch of sympathy and grace to a made atmosphere of semplicità, cordialità and above all of genuinità.”
http://roma.lanetro.it/canales/desar...idresumen=2806
We ordered, Chianti wine ( 1 liter), one Birra, acqua, quattro di formaggi tortellini, a couple more pastas (?), Agnello (Lamb), pollo con rucola, tiramisu, chocolate mousse, cappuccinos, and espresso. Very good! 65.50 euros
Tomorrow Easter Mass at St Peters Basilica and John Paul II
After taking the tram #8, we walked up “Torre Argentina” to the Pantheon. At the “Piazza della Rotonda” we stopped and sat in the outside café that faces the front of the Pantheon. (There was a McDonald’s next door, but we didn’t travel this far for a McDonalds breakfast). We shared an espresso, cappuccinos, a ham and cheese sandwich, and apple pie with cream on top. Afterwards, we toured the inside of the Pantheon.
Next we walked up “Via del Aracoeli”, stopping at a gelateria to taste the gelato. (Our order: one half pistachio and one half lemon, really good!!). With gelato in tow, we walked up the steps of Michelangelo's Cordonata (Staircase leading to Piazza del Campidoglio), then forward through the Roman Forum to the Colosseum. Two Romans were dressed like Roman Soldiers near the Colosseum and for the price one could get a picture with them. When I asked for a free picture, he said “tomorrow 9:30”! Here are some links:
http://www.abcroma.com/ItCampid.asp
http://www.stuardtclarkesrome.com/stairs.htm
http://www.forumromanum.org/index2.html
Next we proceeded up “Via N. Salvi”, then north to “San Pietro in Vincoli” to see Moses.
But, Saint Peter in Chains was closed for the afternoon until 3:30PM. We vowed to return, and headed north down a large flight of stars to “Largo Venosta” and up “Via Giovanni” to “Via S. Martino al Monti” and to the “Ristorante La Forchetta D’oro”.
We shared ravioli in walnut sauce, spaghetti with small clams, spaghetti with tomatoes and mozzarella, water, and flan for dessert.
After eating, we entered Santa Prassede (Saint Pudenziana's sister) on “Via d. S. Prassede” and then the Basilica Santa Maria Maggiore. Backtracking, we then toured San Pietro in Vincoli to see Moses, then, proceeded back to the Colosseum, where we jumped onto the subway to Termini station. At the station we switched trains (B to A) on our way to the Spanish Steps. At Termini, train A was just packed! As the doors opened a wall of people entered the train. We were like sardines on this train with all the peoples bodies pressed together filling the train with every last soul that could be jammed into the space!
http://www.panoramas.dk/fullscreen/fullscreen46.html
http://roma.katolsk.no/pietrovincoli.htm
http://www2.siba.fi/~kkoskim/rooma/pages/SPRASSED.HTM
We arrived at the Spanish Steps while the sun was just starting to set. All the steps were filled with people sitting and watching the mobs of people strolling by the fountain at the base of the steps. After taking some pictures, we proceeded south walking down “Via del Corso” to “Via d. Plebiscito”.
Walking east then north we arrived at “La Danesina di Annalisa Polo”, Via del Governo Vecchio, for dinner.
From their ad:
“The flower to the eyelet de the Danesina is the cooked Danish meat on lavica stone. They do not lack, but, local specialties like the maialino to latte and the schiaffoni to the amatriciana. Meat first quality and made fresh paste in house. The Danesina, graceful small restaurant from the fresh and peasant atmosphere to two steps from the splendid Navona Public square are the flower to the eyelet de. A bomboniera authentication in which the servants only genuine food prepared with natural ingredients and following simple prescriptions. The rich one menu previews rich specialties of the sapori of the roman kitchen and plates made up of Danish meat (from which the name of the premises) cooked on lavica stone.”
“It can be begun by hand with appetizers of gratinate and grilled mixed verdure, prosciutto raw cut, mozzarella of bufala or assays of sea, all many sfiziosi. Between first they detach the schiaffoni to the amatriciana, the paste to the "danesina" with pomodorini soothe and fresh basil, garlic, extra oil vergine of olive and chili pepper, the spaghetti to the carbonara, the rigatoni with pajata or the pens to the angry one. Between the second plates they advise the tail to the vaccinara, the trippa, the maialino to the latte ones, the cut one of danesina, the lobster, the mazzancolle. All it can be accompanied from a red one of Montalcino. Excellent also the cakies made in house like the tiramisù or the crostata one. With table cloths to small checks greens, the cassettoni and the tables in wood, it is the ideal place for who is to the search of the sapori of the true served Mediterranean kitchen in a familiar and kind atmosphere. Just for these characteristics the Danesina is every day attended from one varied customers, attracted from the possibility to choose, also to lunch, menu tourist and always various plates of the day. The staff, all to the feminine one, adds a touch of sympathy and grace to a made atmosphere of semplicità, cordialità and above all of genuinità.”
http://roma.lanetro.it/canales/desar...idresumen=2806
We ordered, Chianti wine ( 1 liter), one Birra, acqua, quattro di formaggi tortellini, a couple more pastas (?), Agnello (Lamb), pollo con rucola, tiramisu, chocolate mousse, cappuccinos, and espresso. Very good! 65.50 euros
Tomorrow Easter Mass at St Peters Basilica and John Paul II
Apr 5th, 2005, 11:59 AM
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DAY 7, Sunday - March 27 – Easter Mass
After taking the tram #8, we jumped on the bus to the Vatican. We walked into St. Peters Square which was packed with people for the morning mass. The mass was done in many languages. Pope John Paul II made an appearance in the window of his apartment at the end of the mass. He appeared in the window for about 20 minutes, waving and blessing the crowd.
After mass we walked across the Tiber river at “Ponte Emanuelle”. Turning right, we followed the river south, then, turned east to “Piazza Sforza Cesarini” and “Trattoria “da Luigi” on “Vittorio Emanuale II”. Here is their link: http://www.trattoriadaluigi.com/
We ate outside in the square, although it started to rain for a few minutes as we sat down, but the rain stopped after that. We ordered wine, water, and sodas to drink, with our bread. Two lasagnas, ravioli in walnut sauce, then steak, chicken, and pork roast for the second. For desert we had tiramisu, espresso and two cappuccinos. 102 euros. Wow, not cheap!
For the rest of the day we stayed near the apartment in Trastevere. We purchased some gelato and pizza and took it back to the apartment to eat later. Most everything around was closed with next to nobody on the streets. No cars!! We packed up and prepared for our departure the next day.
DAY 8, Monday - March 28 – Easter Holiday in Italy
We awoke early and jumped into the car with all our bags. There were no cars on the road. Since it is a holiday in Italy, everyone was still in their houses and apartments. We took the autostrada to FCO.
From Slow Travel ITALY:
You must return your rental car with a full tank of gas. There are no gas stations at the airport or on the road that connects the Rome ring road with the airport. You must fill up with gas before then.
From the North on A12: If you are coming down the coast from the north on the Autostrada A12, the last gas station before the airport is at Arrone Oest, just past the toll booth and 10 km before the intersection where you get on the road to the airport. (This is just after the second toll booth after Cittavechia.) There are toll booths at the start and end of the A12 and each require a 1,50 € toll (tickets are not used on this stretch).
From the North on A1: If you are coming from Tuscany or Umbria on the A1 autostrada, the last two gas stations are on the Rome ring road: the second last one is between exits 3 and 2 (Autogrill - Selva Candida - two gas stations with full service); the last one is between exits 33 and 32 (also two gas stations).
From the South on A1: B. Wood wrote this about coming from the south: When you're driving up the autostrada from the south, the last available service area is at Frascati, just before the toll booth where you exit the autostrada and get on the GRA. If you're buying gas, have cash on hand, since they did not accept credit cards. There are no gas stations on the GRA between the A1 entrance and the airport exit.
Finding the Car Rental Return at the Airport
From the Grande Raccondo Anulare (GRA), the ring road around Rome, take exit 30 for the airport. Coming from the north, exits 30 and 31 are together. This puts you on a good 3 lane highway that goes to the airport (Leonardo da Vinci airport). As you enter the airport, follow the signs to the ABC Terminals and to the covered parking (a sign with P and a hat over it).
It is very important to keep in the left lane. The car rental return is in the B and C covered parking garage. (Do not take the long term parking exit.) There are signs for this, but not many and they can be missed (we missed them our first time - that is why I have these directions written down). You will see the Hilton Hotel on your right. Always keep to the left. EuropeCar and Avis car return are in the B parking garage, 4th floor. You enter B and C at the same place, with an immediate left turn for EuropeCar in B. A small sign at that turnoff tells you which parking garage each car rental agency is in. Hertz car return is C parking garage, 4th floor.
Enter the parking garage, taking a ticket from the automatic dispenser (just like an American garage). Keep the ticket - you need it later. You enter at the ground level and need to go up to the 4th floor. You will see signs pointing you to the higher levels. You have to go up a narrow ramp that is steep and has very tight turns. Keep going around and around on this until you get to the 4th floor where you will see the EuropeCar signs. To get into their section, you need to put the ticket that you got when you entered the garage into the machine that then raises the gate so you can drive in.
Once you are there, the check in is somewhat confusing but really easy. Sometimes they don't even want to look at your car.
FCO to ORD took about 10 hours, then, I switched planes ORD to DFW.
After taking the tram #8, we jumped on the bus to the Vatican. We walked into St. Peters Square which was packed with people for the morning mass. The mass was done in many languages. Pope John Paul II made an appearance in the window of his apartment at the end of the mass. He appeared in the window for about 20 minutes, waving and blessing the crowd.
After mass we walked across the Tiber river at “Ponte Emanuelle”. Turning right, we followed the river south, then, turned east to “Piazza Sforza Cesarini” and “Trattoria “da Luigi” on “Vittorio Emanuale II”. Here is their link: http://www.trattoriadaluigi.com/
We ate outside in the square, although it started to rain for a few minutes as we sat down, but the rain stopped after that. We ordered wine, water, and sodas to drink, with our bread. Two lasagnas, ravioli in walnut sauce, then steak, chicken, and pork roast for the second. For desert we had tiramisu, espresso and two cappuccinos. 102 euros. Wow, not cheap!
For the rest of the day we stayed near the apartment in Trastevere. We purchased some gelato and pizza and took it back to the apartment to eat later. Most everything around was closed with next to nobody on the streets. No cars!! We packed up and prepared for our departure the next day.
DAY 8, Monday - March 28 – Easter Holiday in Italy
We awoke early and jumped into the car with all our bags. There were no cars on the road. Since it is a holiday in Italy, everyone was still in their houses and apartments. We took the autostrada to FCO.
From Slow Travel ITALY:
You must return your rental car with a full tank of gas. There are no gas stations at the airport or on the road that connects the Rome ring road with the airport. You must fill up with gas before then.
From the North on A12: If you are coming down the coast from the north on the Autostrada A12, the last gas station before the airport is at Arrone Oest, just past the toll booth and 10 km before the intersection where you get on the road to the airport. (This is just after the second toll booth after Cittavechia.) There are toll booths at the start and end of the A12 and each require a 1,50 € toll (tickets are not used on this stretch).
From the North on A1: If you are coming from Tuscany or Umbria on the A1 autostrada, the last two gas stations are on the Rome ring road: the second last one is between exits 3 and 2 (Autogrill - Selva Candida - two gas stations with full service); the last one is between exits 33 and 32 (also two gas stations).
From the South on A1: B. Wood wrote this about coming from the south: When you're driving up the autostrada from the south, the last available service area is at Frascati, just before the toll booth where you exit the autostrada and get on the GRA. If you're buying gas, have cash on hand, since they did not accept credit cards. There are no gas stations on the GRA between the A1 entrance and the airport exit.
Finding the Car Rental Return at the Airport
From the Grande Raccondo Anulare (GRA), the ring road around Rome, take exit 30 for the airport. Coming from the north, exits 30 and 31 are together. This puts you on a good 3 lane highway that goes to the airport (Leonardo da Vinci airport). As you enter the airport, follow the signs to the ABC Terminals and to the covered parking (a sign with P and a hat over it).
It is very important to keep in the left lane. The car rental return is in the B and C covered parking garage. (Do not take the long term parking exit.) There are signs for this, but not many and they can be missed (we missed them our first time - that is why I have these directions written down). You will see the Hilton Hotel on your right. Always keep to the left. EuropeCar and Avis car return are in the B parking garage, 4th floor. You enter B and C at the same place, with an immediate left turn for EuropeCar in B. A small sign at that turnoff tells you which parking garage each car rental agency is in. Hertz car return is C parking garage, 4th floor.
Enter the parking garage, taking a ticket from the automatic dispenser (just like an American garage). Keep the ticket - you need it later. You enter at the ground level and need to go up to the 4th floor. You will see signs pointing you to the higher levels. You have to go up a narrow ramp that is steep and has very tight turns. Keep going around and around on this until you get to the 4th floor where you will see the EuropeCar signs. To get into their section, you need to put the ticket that you got when you entered the garage into the machine that then raises the gate so you can drive in.
Once you are there, the check in is somewhat confusing but really easy. Sometimes they don't even want to look at your car.
FCO to ORD took about 10 hours, then, I switched planes ORD to DFW.
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mebe
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