Gluten Free in Paris
Apr 16th, 2009, 03:26 PM
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Gluten Free in Paris
I know, no croissants. Torture. But I wonder if any of you have had experience dining / snacking gluten free in Paris. If you could share any recommendations for restaurants, groceries or cafes, I would really appreciate it.
Thanks!!
Thanks!!
Apr 16th, 2009, 03:28 PM
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My mom is gluten-intolerant, and we visited Paris two years ago. For some reason, she was able to eat the bread (baguettes) there without incident. I don't know if you're adventurous, but it worked for her. I printed up a card that I got on this website http://www.celiactravel.com/gluten-f...14-french.html and took it with us just in case they didn't understand what I was trying to convey. I would do that just so you have it. Good luck!
Apr 16th, 2009, 03:59 PM
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This is a link to davidlebovitz.com and his information on eating gluten free in Paris. David is a chef and cookbook author who lives in Paris and blogs about food.
http://www.davidlebovitz.com/archive...free_eati.html
Have a great trip!
http://www.davidlebovitz.com/archive...free_eati.html
Have a great trip!
Apr 21st, 2009, 03:59 AM
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Melissa, no croissants and no baguettes either in spite of the experience of Kyliebaby’s mom. It’s just not worth taking the chance of being sick while you’re travelling. Some places selling gluten free bread have been mentioned on previous threads, however, and I usually carry some rice cakes that can be topped with sandwich fillings.
Rendez-Vous de la Nature (rue Mouffetard in the 5th)
Bio St Germain (30 bd St Germain in the 5th)
Espace Bio St Charles (20 rue de l'Eglise in the 15th)
Naturalia, a chain of health food stores, also offers gluten free bread and many grocery stores have a gluten free section with limited choice.
Traditional Crepes Breton, known as galettes, are made from sarsin or buckwheat flour, which, in spite of the name, is a relative of rhubarb and not a grain at all. Researching recipes, however, I discovered that buckwheat crepes are often made from a combination of buckwheat and wheat flours or buckwheat flour and beer even, not safe for Celiacs.
Asking about this on a former thread here on Fodors, I was advised by Hanl “to head to the "Breton" area of Paris, near Montparnasse station. Along rue d'Odessa and rue du Montparnasse are countless Breton creperies - so there's a good chance that you'd find one that didn't use wheat flour.”
When I was in the Dordogne in 2006, I found a place where crepes were cooked right in front of me, using flour taken directly from a huge bag marked Sarasin - which I knew meant buckwheat flour. Filled with egg, ham and cheese, just one of the many possibilities, they were a delicious gluten free meal. These kind of crepes are usually used for savoury filling while dessert crepes are made from wheat flour.
You need to ask questions, talk to the chef and perhaps see what is used for yourself to be sure that the crepes are made the traditional Breton way but, believe me, it’s worth the effort. I’ll be in Paris in June and plan to track down some gallettes/sarsins in Montparnasse or possibly Montmartre where I’ll be staying.
Be sure to print and take with you some of those gluten free restaurant cards available on http://celiactravel.com/ They were a great help on my last trip to France.
If you are one of the lucky Celiacs like me who don’t also have lactose intolerance, when in doubt have fruit, wine and cheese!
Rendez-Vous de la Nature (rue Mouffetard in the 5th)
Bio St Germain (30 bd St Germain in the 5th)
Espace Bio St Charles (20 rue de l'Eglise in the 15th)
Naturalia, a chain of health food stores, also offers gluten free bread and many grocery stores have a gluten free section with limited choice.
Traditional Crepes Breton, known as galettes, are made from sarsin or buckwheat flour, which, in spite of the name, is a relative of rhubarb and not a grain at all. Researching recipes, however, I discovered that buckwheat crepes are often made from a combination of buckwheat and wheat flours or buckwheat flour and beer even, not safe for Celiacs.
Asking about this on a former thread here on Fodors, I was advised by Hanl “to head to the "Breton" area of Paris, near Montparnasse station. Along rue d'Odessa and rue du Montparnasse are countless Breton creperies - so there's a good chance that you'd find one that didn't use wheat flour.”
When I was in the Dordogne in 2006, I found a place where crepes were cooked right in front of me, using flour taken directly from a huge bag marked Sarasin - which I knew meant buckwheat flour. Filled with egg, ham and cheese, just one of the many possibilities, they were a delicious gluten free meal. These kind of crepes are usually used for savoury filling while dessert crepes are made from wheat flour.
You need to ask questions, talk to the chef and perhaps see what is used for yourself to be sure that the crepes are made the traditional Breton way but, believe me, it’s worth the effort. I’ll be in Paris in June and plan to track down some gallettes/sarsins in Montparnasse or possibly Montmartre where I’ll be staying.
Be sure to print and take with you some of those gluten free restaurant cards available on http://celiactravel.com/ They were a great help on my last trip to France.
If you are one of the lucky Celiacs like me who don’t also have lactose intolerance, when in doubt have fruit, wine and cheese!
Apr 21st, 2009, 10:29 PM
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These posts are very helpful! I haven't had a crepe in a long while, so a delicious, gluten free crepe would make my day. The David Liebovitz site had a link to a new entirely gluten free restaurant. I will be checking that out, no doubt. I'll be in Paris in May so I will post an update here with gluten free gems.
Apr 22nd, 2009, 03:01 AM
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Hi Melissa - I look forward to hearing your experience in the gluten free restaurant. I will be in Paris in August - staying in the Montparnasse area, so maybe I can finally try some crepes! When I was last in Paris, I went to the Espace Bio that Moolyn recomendeds in Rue d'Eglise - they had all sorts of gluten free goodies (including apple turnovers). Have a great trip.
Apr 27th, 2009, 01:43 PM
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Melissa, I saw your apartment thread as I was looking for one at the same time. Did you find one and if so where? Ours is in Montmartre, just a short walk from the new gluten free restaurants so I hope you will report on this before we leave home on June 4th.
Hanl, who has made some gluten free recommendations, wrote on an another thread that her favourite crêpe place is "Crêperie de Josselin on rue du Montparnasse (worth queueing for a table). I also love the crêperie on rue Lepic in Montmartre, called L'Assiette Lepic." This second recommendation is near the gluten free place and our apartment too so we'll try it for sure, perhaps for our very first meal in Paris. I like the galette complete with ham and cheese.
Looking over my notes on GF France, another celiac wrote that "the best gf bread we have ever had is sold in France. We found it in health food stores in Paris....the brand is "valpiform"." So look for it too.
Hanl, who has made some gluten free recommendations, wrote on an another thread that her favourite crêpe place is "Crêperie de Josselin on rue du Montparnasse (worth queueing for a table). I also love the crêperie on rue Lepic in Montmartre, called L'Assiette Lepic." This second recommendation is near the gluten free place and our apartment too so we'll try it for sure, perhaps for our very first meal in Paris. I like the galette complete with ham and cheese.
Looking over my notes on GF France, another celiac wrote that "the best gf bread we have ever had is sold in France. We found it in health food stores in Paris....the brand is "valpiform"." So look for it too.
Apr 27th, 2009, 01:51 PM
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A gluten-free diet helped me "lick" breathing problems but I was never tested for Celiacs since the year on the diet supposedly would have prompted a negative test result. That being said, in Italy and France, I ate what I wanted and was fine. A chocolate croissant for breakfast keeps the doctor away. Even went 2 kilometers up hill without needed nebulizer.
If you do have Celiacs, that's something else again and DO avoid wheat, but I swear the food supply is better over there.
Please share more about this after you return. It is of great interest to many of us.
If you do have Celiacs, that's something else again and DO avoid wheat, but I swear the food supply is better over there.
Please share more about this after you return. It is of great interest to many of us.
Apr 27th, 2009, 05:08 PM
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Mmm, you're all making me hungry!
TDudette -- I'm so glad a little wheat here and there worked for you. Perhaps you have an allergy to wheat but can handle it in small doses. Hooray! if that's the case. I, however, get that pesky immune reaction to wheat. Ended up in the hospital two years ago from an acute reaction to it. Ick. So, as much as I'd like to, there won't be any wheat cheating for me! And no bragging about how delicious the wheatables are!! Lol.
Moolyn -- I am leaving early May and have free WiFi in my ever-so-humble accomodations (in the 6th arrondissement) so I'll be sure to update this thread. I'm also staying for nearly four weeks and I love to eat so here come the reviews.
Oh, and in case y'all hadn't heard, Starbucks will be carrying a gluten free orange muffin in its stores beginning May 5. I don't know if this is true of locations outside the U.S. but hurrah for mainstream gluten free products.
TDudette -- I'm so glad a little wheat here and there worked for you. Perhaps you have an allergy to wheat but can handle it in small doses. Hooray! if that's the case. I, however, get that pesky immune reaction to wheat. Ended up in the hospital two years ago from an acute reaction to it. Ick. So, as much as I'd like to, there won't be any wheat cheating for me! And no bragging about how delicious the wheatables are!! Lol.
Moolyn -- I am leaving early May and have free WiFi in my ever-so-humble accomodations (in the 6th arrondissement) so I'll be sure to update this thread. I'm also staying for nearly four weeks and I love to eat so here come the reviews.
Oh, and in case y'all hadn't heard, Starbucks will be carrying a gluten free orange muffin in its stores beginning May 5. I don't know if this is true of locations outside the U.S. but hurrah for mainstream gluten free products.
Apr 27th, 2009, 05:18 PM
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We leave Wed. for a 6 week stint in the Riveria. My son and I are Celiac, so we have been doing a ton of research. I don't have a ton to add yet, but I will post info on our trip which may be helpful for you. The "bio" in town is the first stop after the market on Friday.
We have a layover in London, and it was great to see how easy GF eating is in the airport (reprtedly). I found a blog that suggested GF baked goods, including GF sandwiches are sometimes available at Starbucks in England.
Now back on topic - I hear that the buckwheat bread is rather tastey and all bread is better than the US stuff. I won't eat US brands except what I make occasionally but my son has a sandwich addiction. Here's hoping the prices are reasonable and the rumors that the bread is good are true!
We have a layover in London, and it was great to see how easy GF eating is in the airport (reprtedly). I found a blog that suggested GF baked goods, including GF sandwiches are sometimes available at Starbucks in England.
Now back on topic - I hear that the buckwheat bread is rather tastey and all bread is better than the US stuff. I won't eat US brands except what I make occasionally but my son has a sandwich addiction. Here's hoping the prices are reasonable and the rumors that the bread is good are true!
Apr 28th, 2009, 04:26 AM
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Thanks for replying, Melissa. How long have you known you have celiacs?
I was tested for wheat (negative) but not for celiacs (didn't fit the profiles). It could be that one of the preservatives in US bread was the culprit and that was why the fresh bread in Italy and France wasn't a problem. I have some anecdotal stuff about sodium benzoate but my allergist says there is no test for it yet. Have written to FDA twice without a reply.
jsaimd, am I correct that buckwheat is not really wheat?
Maybe it was on a fodor's thread but someone said she found out (the hard way) that there can be wheat in the glue on envelope flaps!
Melissa and jsaimd, all the best for your GF trip!
I was tested for wheat (negative) but not for celiacs (didn't fit the profiles). It could be that one of the preservatives in US bread was the culprit and that was why the fresh bread in Italy and France wasn't a problem. I have some anecdotal stuff about sodium benzoate but my allergist says there is no test for it yet. Have written to FDA twice without a reply.
jsaimd, am I correct that buckwheat is not really wheat?
Maybe it was on a fodor's thread but someone said she found out (the hard way) that there can be wheat in the glue on envelope flaps!
Melissa and jsaimd, all the best for your GF trip!
Apr 28th, 2009, 06:29 AM
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I'm also glutin-free--no Celiacs though I get migraines from even moderate doses of glutin. I'll be in Paris May 5-12 and plan to make good use of these recommendations.
We were in Breton a few years back and the buckwheat crepes were my saving grace--so glad to hear I'll be able to find them in Paris as well. I loved them!
We were in Breton a few years back and the buckwheat crepes were my saving grace--so glad to hear I'll be able to find them in Paris as well. I loved them!
Apr 28th, 2009, 07:39 AM
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Melissa, I'll be eagerly looking for your gluten free food reports as I'm sure will all the other celiacs who have responded here! Just remember that you're eating for us all!
I've found France to be a great country for a celiac because the food preparers tend to be very aware of the ingredients used so they can tell you what is safe if you show then the GF card. Plus, tapioca flour is often used to thicken rather than wheat flour and sauces are reduced rather than thickened. One time a chef was quite insulted when I asked whether a dish included "ble de farine"!
I'm like you and avoid gluten completely as I react to even a trace amount and sometimes in unusual ways - like not being able to sleep for three days! This happened unexpectedly after dinner at a celiac friend's home. She suffered too but with the usual plumbing problems. It's actually probably lucky to be very sensitive so we aren't ever tempted to cheat.
How wonderful that you have almost four weeks in Paris! I'm glad you were able to find an apartment, humble or not, in a central location. We've stayed in the 6th twice and it was great. Montmartre will be a new experience for us.
Even though we know that people with celiac disease have a gluten intolerance rather that an allergy, I often explain it that way as it's just easier. Here's a couple of phrases for you and others:
Je suis allergique au gluten. = I am allergic to gluten.
J'ai la maladie coeliaque qui est causée par une intolérance au gluten. = I have celiac disease which is caused by an intolerance to gluten.
I've found France to be a great country for a celiac because the food preparers tend to be very aware of the ingredients used so they can tell you what is safe if you show then the GF card. Plus, tapioca flour is often used to thicken rather than wheat flour and sauces are reduced rather than thickened. One time a chef was quite insulted when I asked whether a dish included "ble de farine"!
I'm like you and avoid gluten completely as I react to even a trace amount and sometimes in unusual ways - like not being able to sleep for three days! This happened unexpectedly after dinner at a celiac friend's home. She suffered too but with the usual plumbing problems. It's actually probably lucky to be very sensitive so we aren't ever tempted to cheat.
How wonderful that you have almost four weeks in Paris! I'm glad you were able to find an apartment, humble or not, in a central location. We've stayed in the 6th twice and it was great. Montmartre will be a new experience for us.
Even though we know that people with celiac disease have a gluten intolerance rather that an allergy, I often explain it that way as it's just easier. Here's a couple of phrases for you and others:
Je suis allergique au gluten. = I am allergic to gluten.
J'ai la maladie coeliaque qui est causée par une intolérance au gluten. = I have celiac disease which is caused by an intolerance to gluten.
May 12th, 2009, 08:20 AM
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I'm finally here! Just got in this morning but had this to report -- Macarones. They're all over the place, gluten-free (made from almond flour) and delicious. The don't look like American macaroons (the coconut ones you get around Passover). They look like miniature hamburgers but are almond pastry with ganache or other filling in the middle. Tomorrow I will venture out to try buckwheat crepes. Just have to shake the jet lag! More soon.
May 13th, 2009, 08:01 AM
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Melissa, I've wondered about Parisian macaroons and now I know. Thanks! I'll be following your GF adventures.
Enjoy your introduction to buckwheat crepes! I love the galette complete with ham and egg and cheese so plan that as my first meal at a place close to where we are staying, near the Moulin de Galette of Renoir's famous painting.
Enjoy your introduction to buckwheat crepes! I love the galette complete with ham and egg and cheese so plan that as my first meal at a place close to where we are staying, near the Moulin de Galette of Renoir's famous painting.
May 13th, 2009, 08:46 AM
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I don't blame you, Moolyn! Today, I lunched at the creperie on David Liebovitz's website. Amazing, delicious, out of this world. Their buckwheat crepes are made of 100% pure, organic sarassin. I had the one with Norwegian smoked salmon and some sort of delicious fromage / creme concoction. They also have dessert galettes with specialty ice creams. I asked and they were able to make my chocolat banane dessert with a buckwheat crepe.
http://www.davidlebovitz.com/archive...izh_caf_1.html
I love this city. Moroccan food for dinner.
http://www.davidlebovitz.com/archive...izh_caf_1.html
I love this city. Moroccan food for dinner.
May 14th, 2009, 07:03 AM
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So, more delicious food -- I went to an adorable Moroccan restaurant in the Marais called 404. I had a tagine (traditional clay pot) of chicken, steamed pears and spices. The chicken was so moist it slid off the bone. Light and lovely. They had two different fruit desserts to choose from -- both delicious. One was a mixed fruit (all sweet and delicious) and the other was sweet oranges with cinammon and powdered sugar.
Lunch today was at Rotisserie du Beaujolais in the Latin Quarter. I guess I like chicken LOL. I had the rotisserie chicken and mashed potatoes. The server looked at me like I was nuts when I asked if there was any flour or wheat-based filler in the potatoes. Delicious.
Lunch today was at Rotisserie du Beaujolais in the Latin Quarter. I guess I like chicken LOL. I had the rotisserie chicken and mashed potatoes. The server looked at me like I was nuts when I asked if there was any flour or wheat-based filler in the potatoes. Delicious.
May 14th, 2009, 03:30 PM
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OK, here I am again. I am definitely eating my way through Paris. Tonight was another great dinner. Le Relais de Venice in the 17th arrondisement. It was a little ways out but easy to get to on the Metro. It was recommended to us by a friend who grew up here. They only serve one thing -- entrecote and frites. It's delicious and GF, including the delicious sauce. And when you're done with your first plate, someone comes around and gives you seconds, which I've never seen happen before. They only have one wine -- the house red, which was pretty good. Large dessert list with good fruit selections.
May 14th, 2009, 08:19 PM
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Melissa, what a delicious report! Where in the 17th is Relais de Venice? We'll be staying in the 18th so it might not be too far from us. Perhaps you could add addresses for all of the places you like so others can find them.
I've noted the Marais creperie for a Sunday visit and I'll definately be having rotisserie and/or roast chicken sometime on our trip. I've always avoided Moroccan food because of couscous so I'm glad to know that it's possible. Afghan food is celiac friendly too I've discovered.
I've noted the Marais creperie for a Sunday visit and I'll definately be having rotisserie and/or roast chicken sometime on our trip. I've always avoided Moroccan food because of couscous so I'm glad to know that it's possible. Afghan food is celiac friendly too I've discovered.
