ChgoGal

Hi, Fodorites! (and I'm looking at you, indydad!)

I’m hoping to get some thoughts on what to do with (1) full day, and ½ day in Derby.

Plan to visit Hardwick Hall as a full-day excursion, but then I can’t decide what to do on the next full day. The ½ day, I hope for some ideas in the city of historical interest. [I only have 1/2 day, as in the late afternoon (around 2:30-3 ish), I need to be on a train toward Manchester Airport.]

About me:
Reliant on public transportation.
Very interested in late 18th-early 20th century history.
Interested in botanical science, gardens, parks.
Interested in National Trust/English Heritage properties.

For my full day, I thought one of these…
Calke Abbey
Kedleston Hall
Sudbury Hall
Any thoughts on the above?

For my ½ day in Derby city, I thought…
Pickford House?

Any other ideas for what a person might enjoy that is quintessentially “Midlands-ish" in Derby?

Thanks for any thoughts!

Cathinjoetown

Chatsworth?

ChgoGal

Thanks, Cathinjoetown. I should have mentioned I'm visiting Chatsworth a couple days earlier during my stay in Bakewell. Sorry about that. But yes... Chatsworth is a must.

Ozarksbill

My greatgrandparents came from a little town outside Derby, England, (Thulston) converted to the Mormon faith though later in America not LDS. We enjoyed visiting the Royal Crown Derby Factory where fine china is manufactured...including firing and delicate painting. Yes, Chatsworth House, ancestral home of dukes, is in the area.

ChgoGal

Thanks, Ozarksbill. Just looked them up and didn't know of their history. Looks so interesting. Did you take the factory tour? I won't be in Derby on the days the tour is offered but I think I will walk there anyway, just to see the teacups that cost 295 GBP each. Thanks for taking the time to suggest it.

indy_dad

answering the call . . .

You know, we do what we can to get out of Derby.

We prefer to head to the Peak District. I'd shift a day there, but if you already have that set . . .

Kedleston is nice though similar to Chatsworth on a slightly smaller scale. Short walks available around the grounds though nothing too spectacular.

http://ukfrey.blogspot.co.uk/2013/04...hatsworth.html
http://ukfrey.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04...kedleston.html
http://ukfrey.blogspot.co.uk/2011/04...all-41711.html

Calke Abbey would be different. It's more "as-is" and has some "interesting" collections. We did a nice a little walk there as well.

http://ukfrey.blogspot.co.uk/2011/05/calke-abbey.html

Sudbury didn't stand out for us (though we just did a quick tour). I'd definitely favor the other two.

http://ukfrey.blogspot.co.uk/2011/09...shire-day.html

I agree that the Royal Crown Derby is a nice little stop. We walked from our house "all the way across town".

http://ukfrey.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01...own-derby.html

The Derby Silk Mill would also be worth a quick drop by. Here's a post combined with the Cathedral and a trip to Elvaston.

http://ukfrey.blogspot.co.uk/2012/03...and-crazy.html

I haven't been to the Pickford house, but a friend did and seemed to enjoy it (scroll down half way in the post):

http://britseps.blogspot.co.uk/2011/...-and-more.html

I haven't been but a couple of options in town would be the Art Museum (Joseph Wright exhibit) and the jail (?).

http://www.derbymuseums.org/museum-and-art-gallery-2/
http://www.derbygaol.com/

We enjoyed our time at Ashby de la Zouch (a nice ruin, but perhaps before your period of interest):

http://ukfrey.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01...-national.html

You probably already have these, but here are my posts on Hardwick. Note you can visit the nearby Bolsover Castle though I'm not sure of the transportation in between.

http://ukfrey.blogspot.co.uk/2012/09...-hardwick.html

http://ukfrey.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01...-old-hall.html

Finally, here's a misc post on "Where is Derby"
http://ukfrey.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01...-is-derby.html

What do you have plan for the Peak District? I've got even more posts on that.

ChgoGal

Yeah! Indydad came through! I'm on my lunch hour so will peruse the options. I may shift a day back to the Peak District. I was a bit surprised that a hotel could be had so cheaply in Derby, which gave me pause.

Will try to nail a few more places down and post back with an itinerary. Though I'm glad to see the Silk Mill is possibly open. The site says the silk mill is closed. Hope there will be an opportunity for me to visit during my time there.
But Pickford house and the gaol do seem interesting.

I had made note that your Hartington walk was a favorite of yours, so that is on my short list. I have a couple walks around Bakewell but may be keen for more.

Thanks for the post. I'll reply momentarily.

indy_dad

Hmmm. It does appear the Silk Mill is closed. Missed that one . . .

sorry

Ozarksbill

Yes, we did tour the Royal Crown Derby and even purchased a "second" which looks fine...a little wren.

Wow, indy_dad...much impressed by your reports! Where else have you been?

ElendilPickle

If you have time when you visit Chatsworth, Haddon Hall is nearby and well worth a visit. http://www.haddonhall.co.uk/

Lee Ann

txgirlinbda

Hi ChgoGal! Not nearly as familiar with the local sights as indy_dad, but I'm in Derby too, have a vehicle and know my way around town (mostly!) - if you're interested in having tea before you get on the train, let me know, we'll do a mini-gtg?

indy_dad

<<<i>Wow, indy_dad...much impressed by your reports! Where else have you been?</i>>>

Too many to name! We've been here a little over 2 years and we do try to get out and about.

We really enjoy the walking trails here and try to get up to the Peak District when we can. We've also enjoyed our scenic holidays to N. Wales, Lake District and Scotland.

We've seen most of the English Heritage and National Trust sites close by. We are close to our fill there.

You could spend hours reading about it on my blog: www.ukfrey.blogspot.co.uk

I plan to do a summary post when our 3-year assignment is up.

ChgoGal

Hi, Indydad.
I believe I read in one of your posts that you carry a sat nav unit when you walk...? I'm thinking of getting one for my walks to use in tandem with my compass and ordnance survey maps. Do you like the unit you use? Do you find it fairly accurate for the trails?

indy_dad

re: handheld GPS

Love it. Never would have purchased it on my own but my DW got it for me a year ago for Father's Day.

I have a Garmin eTrex 20:

http://www.amazon.com/Garmin-eTrex-W...armin+etrex+20

I was concerned about the cost of maps, but you can get UK ones (and others, I found Switzerland too) for free:

http://talkytoaster.info/ukmaps.htm

You can use it free-style and do well, but I actually prefer to plan my route out ahead of time using the (free) laptop software to make things go even more smoothly on the day (not all trails are necessarily that obvious).

Plus, it punches my geeky buttons with cool stats (time, time standing, gradient, etc.). You can compare what you actually walked to what you planned to walk, etc.

You can see some of the outputs in my walking posts like my most recent at Snowdon:

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ng-snowdon.cfm

The die-hards are probably rolling their eyes, but I say go for it!

ChgoGal

Thanks, indy. I think I may have to go to the Garmin store on Michigan Ave and check that out. I've taken a few wrong turns with my maps, had trails disappear on me, and found myself deep in the woods wondering how much longer, exactly, until I'd get out of them.

And I think I'd enjoy planning my route ahead of time, too, as I try to do so with a china marker on my laminated maps. But then, I don't know exactly how far I've walked or how high.

Congrats on Snowdon! I'm expecting you and the family to do Scafell Pike any weekend now.

ChgoGal

@ Elendil Pickle: Thanks for the recco on Haddon Hall. I LOVED this house when I visited a few years back. I am tempted to return but am still trying to sort out my last couple of days. So many choices!

ChgoGal

Hi, again, Peak District experts!

So I think I've got my plan a bit more fleshed out. Please take a look and see if you see any red flags. Also, I have specific questions below.

Day 1: Matlock
- Train from London-Derby-Matlock; Drop off bags at b&b
- Visit the Red House Carriage Museum & Stables (via bus)
- Visit Masson Mills/Textile Museum in Matlock Bath (time permitting… I hope, I hope, I hope)
- Dinner at Thorntree Inn Pub (Wednesday nights are "Pie night!")
QUESTION: I read of a Cornish pie that had a savory half (meat, potatoes, veggie) and a sweet half (like apple pie). Do you know if this sort of pie is still made? And what it's called? And does it have a dough partition between the two, or does it all run together inside like a Swanson tv dinner?

Day 2: Bakewell
- Bus to Bakewell; Drop off bags at b&b
- Walk option 1: Bakewell to Litton or…
- Walk option 2: Litton to Hathersage (visit Eyam Village & museum en route)
- (bad weather options: attempt to book the "sidecar safari" tour, or Bakewell Old House museum)
QUESTION: Any reccos for dinner in Bakewell?

Day 3: Bakewell
- Walk & Chatsworth (option Haddon Hall): Bakewell circular walk that encompasses Chatsworth (which I plan to visit for several hours) then energy permitting, walk back to Bakewell (close to Haddon Hall -- which I have visited previously, but wouldn't mind visiting again, time & energy permitting)

Day 4: Bus to Derby (am arrival)
- travel to Derby (1 hr bus) check in to hotel in the "Derby City Centre" on Riverside Walk
- bus to Calke Abbey for the day
QUESTION: I am still torn between Hardwicke Hall and Calke Abbey. Hardwicke looks so beautiful and yet, Calke appeals to me more as a nut of Victorian and Edwardian history (about the point the house begins to fall to decline. And the furnishings, the gardener’s bothy, the stables, all seem chock full of interesting things. Do you think I’ll regret not going to Hardwicke? (I probably will anyway.)
QUESTION: Any Reccos for Lunch/Dinner options in Derby? (I would prefer British traditional cuisine or Indian, in keeping with the spirit of my journey.)

Day 5: Derby, Manchester
- am (explore Derby) Pickford House, Royal Derby ceramics, Silk Mill (if it happens to be open), Derby Gaol, Cathedral and Art Museum (in order of interest, & time permitting)
- pm late afternoon train to Manchester

Day 6: Manchester
Manchester Art Museum, for the Costume department
QUESTION: Will likely spend several hours at the Museum, but need to find another attraction or two: John Ryland's Library , Chetham's Library, the Portico, take a guided Manchester Walk.

Just in case others are looking for ideas in this region, I was either tempted by or have been to… Lyme Park, Biddulph Grange Gardens, Dunham Massey Hall, a walk in Hartington, Hardwick Hall, Bolsover Castle, Burghley House, Lincoln Cathedral, Sudbury Hall, Crich Tramway Museum, Quarry Bank Mill, Ironbridge Victorian Village, Tatton Park - but not enough time to do them all.

Let me know if you can answer any of my Questions above, or see any red flags! Thanks, fodorites!

anicecupoftea

<<QUESTION: I read of a Cornish pie that had a savory half (meat, potatoes, veggie) and a sweet half (like apple pie). Do you know if this sort of pie is still made? And what it's called? And does it have a dough partition between the two, or does it all run together inside like a Swanson tv dinner?>>

There is a similar regional delicacy from Bedfordshire, called a clanger. The two sides are kept separate. There are pasty shops all over the country, but I'd think it unlikely you'd find that particular variety in Derbyshire.

ChgoGal

Thanks, anicecupoftea! NEw one for me.

indy_dad

Hi ChgoGal

Sounds like you've done your research. I wish I could help more. Since we have a car, we tend to look for circular walks rather than linear ones and I'm not familiar with either you selected. Did you see those referenced somewhere or did you come up with them on your own?

Eyam is nice so I'd favor that option. There are a few sites outside of town (stone boundary during plague, burials, etc.) so I'd try to hit those. I really like the Dark Peak so getting to Hathersage and that area is a nice perk.

As I mentioned before, we did a couple of nice 4 mile loops around Chatsworth. Those might be nicer than trekking from Bakewell.

Calke Abbey is definitely unique/quirky. That probably fits your theme better. I doubt it will take all day though. What about extending to Ashby-de-la-Zouch as well? It's a little "before your time" but perhaps worthy of a stretch goal.

http://ukfrey.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01...-national.html

I've honestly given up eating out in Derby so I'm not much help here. There are a handful of Indian restaurants by the train station (Anoki, Viceroy, Shalimar). Anoki is the poshest.

We like Le Bistrot Pierre but that's not British Traditional. Ebi Sushi is good but you can get cheaper for the same quality in the States. The rest of our stops are out of the city centre. Sorry can't help more.