Conflicted over Sultanahmet district or Beyogulu area for lodging
Jul 12th, 2012, 04:41 PM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Conflicted over Sultanahmet district or Beyogulu area for lodging
I find myself conflicted over which area to make our base for 5 night stay in Istanbul. I know most on this forum stay in the Sultanahmet area. I understand the ease of proximity to major sights. When we travel we really like to spend evenings getting a sense of the "real" city which we are in. (There's nothing like a neighborhood piazza in Rome for us!) I am less concerned with instant gratification of being near the big sights. I am actually hoping to explore some of Istanbul that is not the major tourist district. Any insights from all of you experts? Thanks again for advice...
Jul 12th, 2012, 05:47 PM
#3
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,212
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I stayed in Sultanahmet but I understand your need to experience more of the "real" Istanbul. Although you only have 5 days I would split your time to 3 in Beyogulu and 2 in Sultanahmet. I loved looking at the Blue Mosque over breakfast and enjoyed being close to many sights.
Othercelebi should have some insight for you.
Othercelebi should have some insight for you.
Jul 12th, 2012, 08:34 PM
#4
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,123
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I stayed in Sultanahmet and was very glad I did, even if I didn't find local "piazzas".
In addition to walking to many tourist sites from my hotel, I walked through areas near my hotel to explore some nearby areas that weren't filled with tourists. One area I explored ranged from the Grand Bazaar to near Sirkeci station; many of the non-tourist areas seemed to be full of shops by day and largely deserted at night. I was told that the buildings in those areas have been so damaged over the years by earthquakes and especially fires that only the first floors are currently in use. The other non-touristy area that I explored in/around Sultanhamet was the university area (near the Grand Bazaar), which seemed a bit more lively - but I didn't roam this area at night.
I didn't see places that made me think of Italian piazzas in any of the sections of Istanbul I visited (which doesn't mean they don't exist). Perhaps the closest thing I saw to an Italian piazza was the far end of the Hippodrome, which I saw only during the day. I saw a few more-or-less open areas with markets outside some mosques and a few outdoor cafes; I doubt they would resemble a piazza at night, but I don't know.
I walked Istiklal Caddesi on a Friday evening and found it painfully crowded and loud. I explored some of the parallel side streets to the north, and found them at least painfully crowded and loud. Again, I didn't see anything that made me think of a piazza. The voices I was hearing were German and English and French and Italian and Japanese and Chinese and only every so once in a while Turkish. Maybe that's just because it was a Friday night....
I didn't have a chance to explore other sections of Beyogulu.
I do understand your desire to be able to get "a sense of the 'real' city," but I don't think you should expect to find piazza-like spaces. But maybe I just failed to find them.
In addition to walking to many tourist sites from my hotel, I walked through areas near my hotel to explore some nearby areas that weren't filled with tourists. One area I explored ranged from the Grand Bazaar to near Sirkeci station; many of the non-tourist areas seemed to be full of shops by day and largely deserted at night. I was told that the buildings in those areas have been so damaged over the years by earthquakes and especially fires that only the first floors are currently in use. The other non-touristy area that I explored in/around Sultanhamet was the university area (near the Grand Bazaar), which seemed a bit more lively - but I didn't roam this area at night.
I didn't see places that made me think of Italian piazzas in any of the sections of Istanbul I visited (which doesn't mean they don't exist). Perhaps the closest thing I saw to an Italian piazza was the far end of the Hippodrome, which I saw only during the day. I saw a few more-or-less open areas with markets outside some mosques and a few outdoor cafes; I doubt they would resemble a piazza at night, but I don't know.
I walked Istiklal Caddesi on a Friday evening and found it painfully crowded and loud. I explored some of the parallel side streets to the north, and found them at least painfully crowded and loud. Again, I didn't see anything that made me think of a piazza. The voices I was hearing were German and English and French and Italian and Japanese and Chinese and only every so once in a while Turkish. Maybe that's just because it was a Friday night....
I didn't have a chance to explore other sections of Beyogulu.
I do understand your desire to be able to get "a sense of the 'real' city," but I don't think you should expect to find piazza-like spaces. But maybe I just failed to find them.
Jul 12th, 2012, 09:10 PM
#5
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
kja, Thanks for responding. I get there may be no piazzas type experiences in Istanbul but was hoping for more "watch the city hang out" kind of thing. Maybe my romantic version in my head just isn't there. I may be trying to reinvent the wheel and should just stay in the Sultanahmet and be happy. If I could have gotten a room at the Empress Zoe I would have stayed there. Loved the look of that place. Where did you stay? Maybe I should take adrienne's advice and stay a couple of places? And Marija, I suspected as much
Thats my fear..
Thats my fear..
Jul 12th, 2012, 10:19 PM
#6
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,123
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I stayed at the Hotel Sapphire, which met my needs and interests exceedingly well. I know several people who have stayed at the Empress Zoe and who wholeheartedly recommend it. I think it's probably an apple/orange comparison. For my sight-seeing priorities, the Empress Zoe seemed a bit less convenient, and it didn't have an elevator. IMHO, neither of these hotels is likely to give the opportunity to experience "real" Istanbul within footsteps of the door.
Jul 12th, 2012, 10:57 PM
#7
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,123
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
And BTW:
In my experience, cities are not unlike people: If you assume that they will meet certain expectations when you meet them, you risk disappointment. If you give them the chance to be who they are, you might actually be enchanted.
In my experience, cities are not unlike people: If you assume that they will meet certain expectations when you meet them, you risk disappointment. If you give them the chance to be who they are, you might actually be enchanted.
Jul 12th, 2012, 11:35 PM
#8
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,123
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OMG, what I just said seems soooo preach-y! My apologies. I think I was reacting to your remark that "Maybe my romantic version in my head just isn't there."
I sincerely hope you experience Istanbul in a way that gives you countless memories that you will treasure for the rest of your life.
I sincerely hope you experience Istanbul in a way that gives you countless memories that you will treasure for the rest of your life.
Jul 13th, 2012, 02:27 AM
#9
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,212
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
<< If you assume that they will meet certain expectations when you meet them, you risk disappointment >>
This is not preachy - it's so true. It's what happened to me in Lisbon. I had a certain expectation that was very far from reality.
This is not preachy - it's so true. It's what happened to me in Lisbon. I had a certain expectation that was very far from reality.
Jul 13th, 2012, 03:00 AM
#10
kmh7, I did not wish to influence your initial plans. However, since you have alrady started considering other parts of the city, i will :
- Of'course it all depends on your likes and dislikes, but based on what I can gather from your posts, you are different from kja and you woul enjoy walking around Cihangir, besiktas, Nisantasi/Tesvikiye, Ortakoy and Bebek much more than Sultanahmet at any time of the day except when walking from one historic sight to another.
Ortakoy is the most similar to a Rome piazza.
however, tesvikiye, Bebek and Cihangir, although they do not have large squares, also have similarities. besiktas is very very local (read my review on Trip Advisor) and quite central. Lots of people around especially after office hours and on the water front, simple cafes, university students, restaurants, fast food places galore, fish market, cheap boutiques, two small malls, an excellent naval museum, boats across the Bosphorus 24 hours and for short cruises, upscale cafes and restaurants near the W hotel.
Beyoglu/istiklal area is like Oxford street in london but more interesting, or Broadway above 38th in NYC, a volatile mix of local and foreign visitors, country hicks, theatre and restaurant goers, People delivering goods, info and themselves from place to places, with backgammon players, Turkish folk and scam bars on the side streets. Fat village women making traditional pastries on restaurant windows mingle with Burger King and the world's tastiest grilled sheep's intestines (kokoretch at Shampiyon at the entrance of the fish market) served in bakery fresh delicious Turkish bread with diced tomatoes and green peppers sprinkled with sage, cumin and hot red pepper flakes.
You can get better fish sandwiches at besiktas than at touristy Eminonu or Galata Bridge.
You can also get better fast food doner at besiktas than at any location in Sultanahmet or Beyoglu. Even Sampiyon Kokorec has a restaurant in Besiktas.
The only food you can get better at Sultanahmet is probably Indian at Dubb Ethnic and that is because there are very very few indian restaurants in istanbul and almost all are in sultanahmet area. (Actually, I like to boast that I do better Indian meals than any restaurant in istanbul, including a mean mango pickle)
Check the apartments of "Cheya Residences". They keep on expanding with new locations. Some of our guests just over two years ago found them to be reasonably located and priced.
- Of'course it all depends on your likes and dislikes, but based on what I can gather from your posts, you are different from kja and you woul enjoy walking around Cihangir, besiktas, Nisantasi/Tesvikiye, Ortakoy and Bebek much more than Sultanahmet at any time of the day except when walking from one historic sight to another.
Ortakoy is the most similar to a Rome piazza.
however, tesvikiye, Bebek and Cihangir, although they do not have large squares, also have similarities. besiktas is very very local (read my review on Trip Advisor) and quite central. Lots of people around especially after office hours and on the water front, simple cafes, university students, restaurants, fast food places galore, fish market, cheap boutiques, two small malls, an excellent naval museum, boats across the Bosphorus 24 hours and for short cruises, upscale cafes and restaurants near the W hotel.
Beyoglu/istiklal area is like Oxford street in london but more interesting, or Broadway above 38th in NYC, a volatile mix of local and foreign visitors, country hicks, theatre and restaurant goers, People delivering goods, info and themselves from place to places, with backgammon players, Turkish folk and scam bars on the side streets. Fat village women making traditional pastries on restaurant windows mingle with Burger King and the world's tastiest grilled sheep's intestines (kokoretch at Shampiyon at the entrance of the fish market) served in bakery fresh delicious Turkish bread with diced tomatoes and green peppers sprinkled with sage, cumin and hot red pepper flakes.
You can get better fish sandwiches at besiktas than at touristy Eminonu or Galata Bridge.
You can also get better fast food doner at besiktas than at any location in Sultanahmet or Beyoglu. Even Sampiyon Kokorec has a restaurant in Besiktas.
The only food you can get better at Sultanahmet is probably Indian at Dubb Ethnic and that is because there are very very few indian restaurants in istanbul and almost all are in sultanahmet area. (Actually, I like to boast that I do better Indian meals than any restaurant in istanbul, including a mean mango pickle)
Check the apartments of "Cheya Residences". They keep on expanding with new locations. Some of our guests just over two years ago found them to be reasonably located and priced.
Jul 13th, 2012, 03:18 AM
#11
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 978
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just my 2cts.
I've been to Istanbul quite often, and have also lived there for a year, in Beyoglu, between Tünel and Cicek Pasaji. On the more recent hotel visits, I was mainly in Sultanahmet.
To me, it mostly depends on the amount of time you have. If you only have 2 days to visit all the historic stuff from Sultanahmet,or if it is your first 3-day visit to Istanbul, then take your hotel at Sultanahmet. You'll see what you came for, the Aya Sophia, the Blue mosk, the Bazar,...
However, the evenings are rather dull. Apparently you are not that kind of traveller.
If you have more time, 5 nights as in your case, Beyoglu is a very good option. You will probably walk a lot more, but you will discover other aspects of Istanbul. I would try to be close to Istiklal Caddesi and Tünel (a short one track subway line). It combines proximity to the Galata bridge and the main tramway leading to Sultanahmet with the festive evening atmosphere of Beyoglu around or between Asmali Mescit Sokak, Balik Pazari (Fish Market, Cicek Pasaji and Nevizade Sokak. Lively? Yes. Noisy? Depends on your level of acceptance. It is a joyous atmosphere of eating and drinking. Touristy? Well yes, but still with many local people, and furthermore, aren't you a tourist or a traveller yourself?
Also on our last (family) trip to Istanbul some 2 years ago, we didn't hesitate; we took a hotel close to Taksim. And the kids still speak of the atmosphere in Nevizade Sokak.
I've been to Istanbul quite often, and have also lived there for a year, in Beyoglu, between Tünel and Cicek Pasaji. On the more recent hotel visits, I was mainly in Sultanahmet.
To me, it mostly depends on the amount of time you have. If you only have 2 days to visit all the historic stuff from Sultanahmet,or if it is your first 3-day visit to Istanbul, then take your hotel at Sultanahmet. You'll see what you came for, the Aya Sophia, the Blue mosk, the Bazar,...
However, the evenings are rather dull. Apparently you are not that kind of traveller.
If you have more time, 5 nights as in your case, Beyoglu is a very good option. You will probably walk a lot more, but you will discover other aspects of Istanbul. I would try to be close to Istiklal Caddesi and Tünel (a short one track subway line). It combines proximity to the Galata bridge and the main tramway leading to Sultanahmet with the festive evening atmosphere of Beyoglu around or between Asmali Mescit Sokak, Balik Pazari (Fish Market, Cicek Pasaji and Nevizade Sokak. Lively? Yes. Noisy? Depends on your level of acceptance. It is a joyous atmosphere of eating and drinking. Touristy? Well yes, but still with many local people, and furthermore, aren't you a tourist or a traveller yourself?
Also on our last (family) trip to Istanbul some 2 years ago, we didn't hesitate; we took a hotel close to Taksim. And the kids still speak of the atmosphere in Nevizade Sokak.
Jul 13th, 2012, 07:00 AM
#12
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
First of all kja, no worries I totally agree with you and it wasn't "preachy." I am very excited about Istanbul and will "go with the flow" wherever we are.
Otherchelebi, Thank you for your candid and detailed description of the various neighborhoods was perfect, and I think I can narrow it down from there. What a vibrant sounding city, I am very excited to experience it.
On another note, I too am a somewhat accomplished cook but have never dared to attempt Indian cuisine. Besides my obsession with finding beautiful Turkish ceramics I am most excited to visit the spice market. I have followed your other post an written down in detail where yo suggested to go
I am going to continue looking but found one hotel I thought looked interesting is the Galata Antique Hotel, it is near the Galata Tower, at the end of Istikal Street. How is that location?
baldrick, I appreciate your 2cts. You also confirmed my instinct to base ourselves outside of the Sultanahmet area.
Once again, Thank you all for your time.
Otherchelebi, Thank you for your candid and detailed description of the various neighborhoods was perfect, and I think I can narrow it down from there. What a vibrant sounding city, I am very excited to experience it.
On another note, I too am a somewhat accomplished cook but have never dared to attempt Indian cuisine. Besides my obsession with finding beautiful Turkish ceramics I am most excited to visit the spice market. I have followed your other post an written down in detail where yo suggested to go
I am going to continue looking but found one hotel I thought looked interesting is the Galata Antique Hotel, it is near the Galata Tower, at the end of Istikal Street. How is that location?
baldrick, I appreciate your 2cts. You also confirmed my instinct to base ourselves outside of the Sultanahmet area.
Once again, Thank you all for your time.
Jul 13th, 2012, 10:33 AM
#13
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,112
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
During my first visit to Istanbul last Sept. I stayed in Sultanahmet at the Mavi Ev (Blue House). I booked the suite room with a view of both the Blue Mosque and Sea of Marmara that were so close, I could almost reach out and touch them both. And the first morning being awoke at dawn by the call to prayer coming from the Blue Mosque will be a lifetime memory.
During my upcoming Turkey trip next month, I took OC's advice and am staying in Cihangir. I'm very much looking forward to staying in a different part of town as I want to see and experience many things that I did not have a chance to see during my 3 1/2 days last summer.
I do think for a first time visit, you are better off staying in Sultanahmet for its proximity to the key tourist sites. Definitely get the heck out of "Sultanahmet Dodge" during the evenings, if for no other reason than to escape the sea of pushy carpet salesman.
Whichever you decide,I would not move hotels if you are only there for 5 days. Pick one location and stick with it.
During my upcoming Turkey trip next month, I took OC's advice and am staying in Cihangir. I'm very much looking forward to staying in a different part of town as I want to see and experience many things that I did not have a chance to see during my 3 1/2 days last summer.
I do think for a first time visit, you are better off staying in Sultanahmet for its proximity to the key tourist sites. Definitely get the heck out of "Sultanahmet Dodge" during the evenings, if for no other reason than to escape the sea of pushy carpet salesman.
Whichever you decide,I would not move hotels if you are only there for 5 days. Pick one location and stick with it.
Jul 13th, 2012, 01:50 PM
#14
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
MinnBeef Where are you staying in Cihangir? I agree I wouldn't move in 5 days I like to unwind too much for that. I have seen Blue House in guidebooks and wondered about it. Love to walk at night so really considering another area. Thanks for input. FYI, I think the call to prayer sounds lovely!
Jul 13th, 2012, 02:19 PM
#15
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,112
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The Mavi Ev/Blue House is noted in the Froemmer's book, which is where I found it last year. Very nice, reasonably priced hotel with a nice breakfast on the terrace. Just a block off Sultanahmet Park (towards the Sea of Marmara), 1/2 way between the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia.
In Cihangir, I'm staying at the Witt Istanbul.
In Cihangir, I'm staying at the Witt Istanbul.
Jul 13th, 2012, 02:49 PM
#16
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,110
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
On my visit to Istanbul I really enjoyed the ride from the airport by train/tram. After you switch to the tram it passes through commercial areas of the city which are thronging with local people going about their daily shopping -markets small grocers, bakers, fabric shops and ironmongers and so on. Arriving in Sultanhamet was like arriving in a polished city compared to this. I must say though that I don't know if these areas would have attraction for tourists at night.
Thread
Original Poster
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mp413
Europe
26
Apr 19th, 2016 06:24 PM
