Christmas Markets and more –a trip report in pictures with a few comments
Jan 2nd, 2015, 01:43 PM
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Christmas Markets and more –a trip report in pictures with a few comments
As long as I’ve known about the beautiful light shows called the Fete de Lumiere that Lyon puts on each year around the 8th of December, I’ve wanted to go there and see it. Well, if not now, when?!! So I booked a hotel room in May and started planning a pre-Christmas trip around the fete. We spent 12 days total—4 each in Lyon, Strasbourg and Paris—and had a terrific, magical even, time.
Somehow combining time in Lyon for the fete with Christmas markets in Alsace was a natural and from there we added in Nancy, time in Paris before flying home from there with a day trip to Lille thrown in for good measure. We got from place to place entirely by train which delighted my husband no end.
Rather than provide a lengthy narrative trip report, I’m providing three sets of photos from the 3 parts of the trip—Lyon, Strasbourg, and Paris. The pictures are captioned so you get something of a trip report from that. Let me just add a few observations.
I have to admit I was a bit disappointed in the Fete de Lumieres. All the lovely pictures I’d seen on the internet showed the lovely buildings of the city outlined in multi-colors against the black night. I think that kind of display was probably more prevalent in the early years of the fete and that to prevent repetition, they have had to turn to some more “artsy” installations which are fun but not quite as dazzling as the lighted buildings I’d seen. That said, it was still well worth going. And of course, it the fete had been a total bust, there would still be the wonderful food of Lyon, in their homey bouchons and in their colorful street markets and the fabulous indoor Paul Bocuse market. The city is simply food-obsessed and I love it.
Here's a link to our pictures from Lyon
https://picasaweb.google.com/1066089...7wE&feat=email
I’ve seen debates on this forum and others about whether to attend the markets in Strasbourg or in Colmar. Obviously the best answer is to do both, but if a choice must be made my answer is Strasbourg, hands down. They have 10 markets to Colmar’s 5. Their markets have varying themes and the glitz is just much more overpowering—in a good way. I did, however, find the actual stalls and their painted peaks in the Colmar market superior to those of Strasbourg.
Frankly I hadn’t expected to feel so drawn into the Strasbourg market spirit. We’ve been to Alsace several times and after one visit to Strasbourg, decided it was too big and not as cute as the small surrounding villages, including Colmar, and had not chosen to return to the capitol but stay with the smaller places. Well, in the crisp air of winter with the lighted cathedral as backdrop, you can’t beat it. They don’t call it the Capitale de Noel for nothing.
Our day trip to Nancy afforded me a healthy dose of Art Nouveau--my favorite--both at their Ecole de Nancy Museum and at the Brasserie Excelsior which I booked from home to be sure of a table. Nancy was also a place we’d been once long before and not gone back until now. Like Strasbourg it rewarded us handsomely for finally returning.
Here's a link to our pictures from Strasbourg and Nancy
https://picasaweb.google.com/1066089...5Iw&feat=email
Lille is our new “find.” We built it into a trip to see more of the North of France earlier this year and liked it enough to return only 5 or 6 months later. The Flemish architecture is terrific any time of year, but really “cute” when surrounded with beautiful shop windows, a gigantic Ferris wheel, holiday carnival rides for the kids, and a wonderful market for everyone.
Against all of this, Paris was for once, kind of a letdown. I remember markets in the Les Halles area and by St. Germain des Pres, etc from a trip long ago—actually during “the storm of the century.” And yes, there were some plain white stalls here and there lining some sidewalks but they weren’t selling cute Christmas ornaments, santons or even much handicrafts that could be purchased as Christmas gifts. In short they just didn’t measure up to the magic we’d seen in the provinces.
I did some homework and was prepared for a market in the square by St. Sulpice. I think we were there on the 14th or so, and they were just erecting a Ferris wheel and there were no signs of stalls to be installed. I understand that La Defense has big markets—or they are supposed to, but we weren’t interested in going to one of the more modern parts of the city to look for old-fashioned charm as we’d seen so easily in Lyon, Alsace, Lille. Again, however, the food was good as it always is, so we contented ourselves with dining, comforting ourselves with “apples” so to speak rather than trinkets and glitter.
Here's a link to our pictures from Paris and Lille:
https://picasaweb.google.com/1066089...eWA&feat=email
Overall, we had a wonderful time and I would recommend a similar sojourn to anyone and everyone. The markets are truly Christmas magic.
Somehow combining time in Lyon for the fete with Christmas markets in Alsace was a natural and from there we added in Nancy, time in Paris before flying home from there with a day trip to Lille thrown in for good measure. We got from place to place entirely by train which delighted my husband no end.
Rather than provide a lengthy narrative trip report, I’m providing three sets of photos from the 3 parts of the trip—Lyon, Strasbourg, and Paris. The pictures are captioned so you get something of a trip report from that. Let me just add a few observations.
I have to admit I was a bit disappointed in the Fete de Lumieres. All the lovely pictures I’d seen on the internet showed the lovely buildings of the city outlined in multi-colors against the black night. I think that kind of display was probably more prevalent in the early years of the fete and that to prevent repetition, they have had to turn to some more “artsy” installations which are fun but not quite as dazzling as the lighted buildings I’d seen. That said, it was still well worth going. And of course, it the fete had been a total bust, there would still be the wonderful food of Lyon, in their homey bouchons and in their colorful street markets and the fabulous indoor Paul Bocuse market. The city is simply food-obsessed and I love it.
Here's a link to our pictures from Lyon
https://picasaweb.google.com/1066089...7wE&feat=email
I’ve seen debates on this forum and others about whether to attend the markets in Strasbourg or in Colmar. Obviously the best answer is to do both, but if a choice must be made my answer is Strasbourg, hands down. They have 10 markets to Colmar’s 5. Their markets have varying themes and the glitz is just much more overpowering—in a good way. I did, however, find the actual stalls and their painted peaks in the Colmar market superior to those of Strasbourg.
Frankly I hadn’t expected to feel so drawn into the Strasbourg market spirit. We’ve been to Alsace several times and after one visit to Strasbourg, decided it was too big and not as cute as the small surrounding villages, including Colmar, and had not chosen to return to the capitol but stay with the smaller places. Well, in the crisp air of winter with the lighted cathedral as backdrop, you can’t beat it. They don’t call it the Capitale de Noel for nothing.
Our day trip to Nancy afforded me a healthy dose of Art Nouveau--my favorite--both at their Ecole de Nancy Museum and at the Brasserie Excelsior which I booked from home to be sure of a table. Nancy was also a place we’d been once long before and not gone back until now. Like Strasbourg it rewarded us handsomely for finally returning.
Here's a link to our pictures from Strasbourg and Nancy
https://picasaweb.google.com/1066089...5Iw&feat=email
Lille is our new “find.” We built it into a trip to see more of the North of France earlier this year and liked it enough to return only 5 or 6 months later. The Flemish architecture is terrific any time of year, but really “cute” when surrounded with beautiful shop windows, a gigantic Ferris wheel, holiday carnival rides for the kids, and a wonderful market for everyone.
Against all of this, Paris was for once, kind of a letdown. I remember markets in the Les Halles area and by St. Germain des Pres, etc from a trip long ago—actually during “the storm of the century.” And yes, there were some plain white stalls here and there lining some sidewalks but they weren’t selling cute Christmas ornaments, santons or even much handicrafts that could be purchased as Christmas gifts. In short they just didn’t measure up to the magic we’d seen in the provinces.
I did some homework and was prepared for a market in the square by St. Sulpice. I think we were there on the 14th or so, and they were just erecting a Ferris wheel and there were no signs of stalls to be installed. I understand that La Defense has big markets—or they are supposed to, but we weren’t interested in going to one of the more modern parts of the city to look for old-fashioned charm as we’d seen so easily in Lyon, Alsace, Lille. Again, however, the food was good as it always is, so we contented ourselves with dining, comforting ourselves with “apples” so to speak rather than trinkets and glitter.
Here's a link to our pictures from Paris and Lille:
https://picasaweb.google.com/1066089...eWA&feat=email
Overall, we had a wonderful time and I would recommend a similar sojourn to anyone and everyone. The markets are truly Christmas magic.
Jan 2nd, 2015, 02:09 PM
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Great photos!! We did a trip to Strasbourg from Paris a couple of years ago. I remember getting off the train and walking to the markets in snow flurries....magical.
We'll be in Paris December 2015 and thought to go to Lyon first but decided on London instead. Happy to read that the lights were not that amazing!
We'll be in Paris December 2015 and thought to go to Lyon first but decided on London instead. Happy to read that the lights were not that amazing!
Jan 2nd, 2015, 02:20 PM
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Judy, I wouldn't say that the lights aren't amazing, they just aren't as amazing as I'd built them up to be. In all fairness I also have to confess that I probably missed the most amazing "lighted building" displays. We foolishly detoured into a tunnel that was closed to all but foot traffic where they were lighting the sides with pictures/installations from students. That the tunnel was over 2 miles long and we were already tired didn't help but worst of all it was the route I'd chosen to get to Place Terreaux where two of their buildings were lit. We also tried unsuccessfully to see the Cathedral in Vieux Lyon lighted. The crowds were just too deep to take on. What I'd recommend if you have an interest would be to book ahead as you must but with cancellable reservations so you can see the previews on the web for the upcoming gete and decide then whether it looks good to you.
Jan 2nd, 2015, 02:24 PM
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I am just about to go to bed so I actually have not looked at your photos yet, but I would say that Lyon-Strasbourg-Lille is one of the very best Christmas combinations that you could possibly have done.
This year I discovered Arras as well, and I thought that it was splendid.
This year I discovered Arras as well, and I thought that it was splendid.
Jan 2nd, 2015, 02:30 PM
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kerouac, we were in Arras during the spring this year as well. As we stood in its square we thought of what a lovely place it must be for a Christmas market but later discovered Lille and decided that if we were only going to do one day trip from Paris, it would be Lille. Do you have pictures to share from Arras, or did you post them already and I missed them. I'd love to see the square all lit up.
Jan 3rd, 2015, 07:29 AM
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Julie, here is the report that I made about Arras: http://anyportinastorm.proboards.com...december-night
Jan 3rd, 2015, 07:40 AM
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Julie, your beautiful photo report is a real gift to we fellow travelers. Thanks for the time and effort you put into creating it. I was especially interested in Nancy. We visited the city as my father had fought and participated in the Liberation of Nancy in Sept.1944. The Grand Place there is so beautiful.
Jan 3rd, 2015, 07:46 AM
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kerouac, no wonder I didn't see your report on Arras. You were reporting while we were in Lyon. Your pix show that it was every bit as lovely as we imagined when we looked at the square in spring/summer. Should we have occasion to be in Paris another December we'll definitely make a day trip there. I recall that your pix from the North of France got us interested in that area initially. We very much enjoyed Wimereux.
Jan 3rd, 2015, 08:24 AM
#12
I'm glad you liked it. There is actually a companion report to the Arras visit, for those interested in WW1 sites. These places are all only about 20km from Arras: http://anyportinastorm.proboards.com...ies-pas-calais
Jan 3rd, 2015, 09:32 AM
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HappyTrvlr,
Thanks for your kind words. I'm a bit ashamed to have dismissed Nancy after our first visit. I guess I can only claim to have been misguided in my youth. It's a delightful city. That's one of the beauties of this site. Someone else will see something in a place you've dismissed and cause you to reconsider and be very glad you did.
Thanks for your kind words. I'm a bit ashamed to have dismissed Nancy after our first visit. I guess I can only claim to have been misguided in my youth. It's a delightful city. That's one of the beauties of this site. Someone else will see something in a place you've dismissed and cause you to reconsider and be very glad you did.
Jan 3rd, 2015, 10:29 AM
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It is very important to give "dismissed" places a second chance. I have tried to do so as often as reasonable, and I revise my opinion at least half of the time. And there are certain cities with which I have a problem but which I know a lot of people love, so I keep trying to learn to love them again and again... without success in many cases. I'm not sure how many chances a city should be given. ;-)
Jan 3rd, 2015, 10:35 AM
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Julie, Your pictures are wonderful and your report, very interesting! I enjoyed both. Some of the food looked delicious. My favorite picture of yours was the tallest Christmas tree at night. I always enjoy night shots, but this one was a super job! Thank you for sharing!
Kerouac, thanks for your reports and pictures. Sorry about the rain in Arras, but it did make for some nice reflections on the cobblestones.
Your pictures of the WWI cemeteries were moving. The memorial with the lists of names brought tears to my eyes.
Thank you both, Kerouac and Julie, for sharing your pictures and thoughts with us.
Kerouac, thanks for your reports and pictures. Sorry about the rain in Arras, but it did make for some nice reflections on the cobblestones.
Your pictures of the WWI cemeteries were moving. The memorial with the lists of names brought tears to my eyes.
Thank you both, Kerouac and Julie, for sharing your pictures and thoughts with us.
Jan 3rd, 2015, 07:29 PM
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Julie...thank you for sharing your terrific pictures. The album from Strasbourg brought back many great memories of my 2011 early December visit to that city. After seeing your photos the thought of returning to the Alsace region is flitting through my mind! Happy New Year!
Jan 4th, 2015, 02:25 AM
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thanks to all for your kind words. It's nice to be back posting here. You're all so complimentary and encouraging.
Marcy, have you been to Alsace in non-wintry weather as well? If not, I highly recommend going at one of those times to experience the charm of all the small towns by doing a very easy to drive among them.. A couple of posts I've read here show a delightful looking apartment rental in Riquewihr that keeps enticing me to return.
Marcy, have you been to Alsace in non-wintry weather as well? If not, I highly recommend going at one of those times to experience the charm of all the small towns by doing a very easy to drive among them.. A couple of posts I've read here show a delightful looking apartment rental in Riquewihr that keeps enticing me to return.
