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Old Aug 15th, 2003 | 11:33 AM
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Carcassonne

Is it really worth going a day out of our way to visit this town after spending 2 weeks in Provence and Dordogne? And if yes, is it really worth it to splurge and stay at the hotel La Cite??
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Old Aug 15th, 2003 | 11:38 AM
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If you're traveling between Provence and the Dordogne, it's right on the way and wouldn't require a day out of your way.
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Old Aug 15th, 2003 | 11:39 AM
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If I recall correctly, it wasn't that far from Arles or Avignon. You may want to check out Carcassone.org.
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Old Aug 15th, 2003 | 11:49 AM
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It's not that close to Arles or Avignon, actually - it's just about halfway from Avignon to Sarlat - which means three hours away from each (traveling fast, on the autoroute). But if you ARE traveling on the autoroute, Carcassonne is right there - you go right by it, and can easily hop off for a visit.
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Old Aug 15th, 2003 | 11:53 AM
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Yes, it's a wonderful hotel, and it's absolutely fantastic to stay there and walk around at night after all the tourists are gone!
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Old Aug 15th, 2003 | 12:47 PM
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That would probably be fun. We stayed in a dumpy hotel at the bottom of the hill just outside the walls, but walked up and had dinner at Le Jardin inside. The place was practically deserted by 4PM so we had been able to wander around quite some time (during which we made our dinner reservation for later that night). If I had it to do over, I'd probably splurge to stay at Hotel La Cite. (But now I've seen Carcassone, and I don't think I need to go back.)
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Old Aug 15th, 2003 | 06:46 PM
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We loved Carcassone, but you really need to spend the night so you have the place free of tourists in the evening and in the early morning. Our morning (when we were there) was misty/foggy and the effect was spectacular. We were looking for ghosts.
There are those that point out (negatively) that it has been refurbished and indeed it has. But, we are talking about 15% of the site, mostly the roofs which had eroded over time. Slate was used (not authentic) because thr Northern French had defeated the Southern forces and were accostomed to slate. For those of us that don't know any better (I include myself), it looks fantastic. Inthat misty morning, I kept wanting to draw my sword and challange intruders.
Take the morning guided tour. It is very interesting. And, by all means have a cassoulet on one of the neat little restaurants inside the walls. Have a great trip.
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Old Aug 15th, 2003 | 06:53 PM
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I have a friend who stayed there and loved it. Maybe if she sees this thread she will post.
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Old Aug 15th, 2003 | 07:24 PM
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Carcassonne is little more than a medieval theme park. If you liked "Frontiertown" at Disneyland you will love Carcassonne. One hour at Sarlat in the Dordogne is better than all day at Carcassonne. Just my opinion and your mileage may vary.

Larry J
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Old Aug 15th, 2003 | 07:39 PM
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I love Sarlat, no question - it's *my* market town, but I do hate it when people bash Carcassonne. It's a restored medieval town that is pretty much today what it was in its heyday in medieval times - a crowded place full of cheap souvenir sellers and cheap restaurants and hotels. If you can't get past the fact that certain places in Europe - like le Mont St-Michel and Carcassonne and Rocamadour are pretty much exactly today what they were like in the 13th century, then you don't have much appreciation of history. Sure, it's a bummer to arrive at one of these places and see loads of tourists and shops selling cheap trinkets, but that's what it was all ABOUT, even in the Middle Ages! Don't you read your history before you visit these places?
It is SO cheap to characterize Carcassonne as a medeival theme park. Only someone with no sense of history would do so.
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Old Aug 15th, 2003 | 07:39 PM
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I have to admit after spending time in Sarlat,which was wondeful, we spent a day and night in Carcassonne and came away thinking "is that all there is?" We were staying in the Lauragais area for a week and found many sites we liked better. But Carcassonne sure looks impressive from the distance. Deborah Ann
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Old Aug 15th, 2003 | 10:57 PM
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Huzzah St Cirq. These people have no romance in their souls, or maybe, no souls. While I truly loved Sarlat, to try to compare it to Carcassone is rediculous; two entirely different experiences.
If I were to shy away from every European site that had a trinket shop, I would never see anything. Extraordinary travel does take some thought and imagination.
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Old Aug 16th, 2003 | 01:19 AM
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hi, planned to see Carcassonne
for years. when i got there it was everything i expected. a real fairy tale place. then we went to Sarlat which was a wonderfull surprise. at day and night. don't miss both.
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Old Aug 16th, 2003 | 04:02 AM
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To StCirq

In my post I clearly stated that my opinion of Carcassonne was just that; my opinion and I allowed that the opinions of others may differ. I respect that. A dislike of Carcassonne is not "cheap"; cheap is a disrespect of the differing opinions of others. Just my opinion and again your mileage may vary.

Larry J
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Old Aug 16th, 2003 | 07:17 AM
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I stayed outside the walls as well but the walk was not that far and we saved a considerable amount on the price of hotel accommodations. I agree that at night when the tourists are gone that the town has a magical feel. We ate dinner and strolled around before heading back to our hotel for the night. We took the most amazing photo from outside the walls of the town illuminated. Had we not stayed outside the walls, we may not have seen such a beautiful sight. I was not disappointed with Carcassonne...it lived up to my expectations in every way.
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Old Aug 16th, 2003 | 11:38 AM
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Carcassonne was our next to last stop having spent two weeks in Provence, heading to Nimes and from there to Carcassonne - the trip takes almost 3-hrs on the Peage.

As you turn off at the Carcassone exit it's not unusual for one to gasp when you see the city in front of you.

We arrived shortly before most tourists departed (between 6-7pm) - after that the town was all ours. We walked the outer ramparts and you were drawn back to the 12th and 13th centuries; likewise the next morning when the mist was still hovering over the city and before the tourists arrive (about 9am).

The first tour in English is at 10am or 11am and is a must as this takes you around the inner ramparts which you cannot do on your own. The tour ends at the Basillique St-Nazaire from the 11th Century with the most beautiful rose colored stained glass windows.

If Carcassonne is a medieval theme park, then what would one call Les Baux (in Provence) which is even more crowded. Carcassonne and Les Baux with or without tourists were certainly worth the time we spent and hey, we're tourists! However, we found few Americans at either, rather, lots of French and other Europeans.

We stayed at La Cite for two nights, but had dinner down the street first night at L'Acu D'Or, then at the Barbacane in the hotel the second.

Compared to the hustle and crowds of Toulouse, Carcassonne was a lovely pause. Besides there is so much history of the Cathars in that area, which you should take the time to learn. A great book is The Perfect Heresy (The Revolutionary Life and Death of the Medieval Cathars), by Stephen O'Shea.

Note: You cannot drive into the city between 9am-6pm, but there is specific hotel parking outside the walls. If you arrive way before 6pm, it's a short walk into the city to the Hotel La Cite (which is right next to the Basillique), but the bellman will gather your bags and bring to the hotel.
 
Old Aug 16th, 2003 | 06:18 PM
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Thank you all for your responses. You have been great in helping me plan our trip.
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