madferit

Background: My wife and I will be in Madrid for a couple days in late February. I am trying to decide between Barrio de las Letras or Barrio de la Latina. Why? These seem to have a great concentration of tapas bars and such, and are older areas.

Sorry for the long note, but I am really hoping someone can break down the two; give me a little comparison. Pros/cons based on my likes/dislikes.

We are in our mid 30s and our plan is just doing tapas crawl, exploring crooked old streets, strolling quaint squares where you can grab an adult drink and watch time go by, maybe a little (window) shopping. We like going out, but by that I mean drinking a few beers and people watching…not clubbing. We like funky, older neighborhoods as opposed to sleek/hip, tidy and new areas. I think both areas fit the bill. Museums do not factor into our plans.

Letras is attractive because every tour guide gushes over the winding streets with tapas between San Jeranimo and Plaza Santa Ana. Plus I like the literary history and I am guessing good streets to wander (safely). And Santa Ana sounds like it has a lot going on at night.

La Latina is dubbed the oldest area, so it gets lots of points for that. I like the idea of bars in caves…very cool. Loads of tapas…and I am guessing lots of older scenery and crooked sidestreets here, too.

I am also torn because we like to get “out in it” when we travel despite the fact our Spanish is VERY limited. I don’t like to be around a bunch of other tourists I guess is what I mean. But I also want to be around quaint, old areas (18th, 19th Century Madrid), where I am assuming most locals wouldn’t hang out. A good mix is what I seek…something authentic yet energetic….not girls gone wild, or noveau riche crowd…but not an area where we’ll feel out of place as a tourist (and not speaking too much native toungue). My wife smokes too, so that’s always an issue. I’m guessing Madrid is no different.

Latina (from photos) is very pretty up around Mayor; if not a little too touristy….and down into squares like Paja; very cute….seems like its very diverse, which I like….and more of a neighborhood maybe….but almost felt like the more southerly you went down towards La Latina metros, pictures seem to be less and less of the Old Madrid vibe I seek. Maybe too grungy for me. Is there enough between the Calle Cavas (Alay, Baja, San Miguel) and their arteries to satisfy?

Letras also looks neat with the area between Huertas and back streets around Leon, etc. But is it all show for tourists? I mean do people live here? Do locals hang out in tapas bars around here? And is it just Santa Ana and Huertas? Or are they nice, funky side streets to explore?

And whats between the two neighborhoods anyway; if I split my time? Say I walked between Plaza Santa Ana and say Cava Baja (from Plaza del Angel, over to Calle Concepcion Jeronima, to Grafal, to Baja maybe). Is it an “ok” walk safety wise? Is there anything to see? Or is it better to walk up to Sol, back down through Plaza Mayor and down Chuchilleros?

Also, I realize it’s the end of February and weather is hit or miss. I will recalibrate my expectations for “exploring crooked old streets, strolling quaint squares” and having a drink outside as need be. I am used to sitting out in less than optimal conditions due to tobacco laws.

Any info is appreciated.

Cheers,

Madferit

Nikki

I can not do any comparisons, but I did stay at the Hotel Room Mate Alicia in a beautifully renovated building right on the corner at the Plaza Santa Ana, and I think the area fits your requirements very well.

Viajero2

Definitely take the Old Madrid Neighborhoods walking tour sponsored by the Spain Office of Tourism and departing from their office at Plaza Mayor. I have been to Madrid many times and just recently took this tour. I was so delighted and fascinated with all the details and historical facts I learned at this walking tour.

madferit

thank you.

Maribel

madferit,
I left an answer on your other thread before I saw this one. Now that I've read about what you're looking for in detail, I know that the Barrio de las Letras is the place for you. Yes, certainly, real people live there-it's a very vibrant neighborhood, Many streets are now pedestrianized, making it a great place for strolling.

Lodging options from budget to expensive:
Hotel Plaza Mayor, Room Mate Alicia, Hotels Prado/Lope de Vega (these 2 are sisters), Vincci Soho, Catalonia Las Cortes, ME by Meliá.

Given your age, you'd probably enjoy the Room Mate Alicia or the Soho, as they have a younger vibe.

(But the bars in the caves, the mesones, under the Plaza Mayor, are not at all as good as those on the Cava Baja, the food is of fair to poor quality, plus they're overpriced-very, very touristy-I'd stay away from them and stick to the bars of the Cava Baja, Almendro and Plaza de la Paja for much better food and wine.)

car

You have to keep in mind than walking or metro distance between these two areas is around 15 minutes, so you can stay in one and move to the other one easily.
You will find more tourists in Letras and younger and more local in Cava Baja and Plaza de la Paja.
I suggest you add Malasaña and Chueca areas to your wanderings around good tapas bars and local atmosphere.
Malasaña is in between San Bernardo and Bilbao metro stations, towards the center and Chueca has its own metro right in the center of the area.

zeppole

I agree with car that expanding your options and doing some more research between now and February is a good idea. I say that because I think walking and bar-hopping the few crooked old streets of Madrid is less thrilling walking and bar-hopping in the beautiful, stylish, glamorous and spacious places just away from the touristy core, which includes great windowshopping. Madrid to me is at its best as a great modern European city, not quaint, but Madrillenos all over town love their sprawling cafes and people watching, so even in the most lavish and beautifully designed up-to-date quarters, you'll see crowds enjoying bars and cafes for endless hours.