Belle Normandie in the springtime: Marcy's trip report- part 1
May 15th, 2005, 08:50 AM
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Belle Normandie in the springtime: Marcy's trip report- part 1
We returned from France a week ago, having spent one week in Normandy & one week in Paris. Here are some highlights from the Normandy portion of our trip:
Our first stop was Giverney on April 24. I was concerned that this would be too early in the year for the gardens to be very good, but oh was I wrong! It was GORGEOUS! The tulips were out of this world, and all the foliage was that fresh, new spring green color- so pretty!
We also enjoyed the Museum of American Art. I’m a big Mary Cassatt fan, and they have a nice collection of her work.
We stayed at the Chaine D’Or in Les Andelys for one night (thanks, Underhill, for the recommendation) and had a nice view from our room looking out over the river. The room was large, but not particularly exciting in decor.
Dinner at the Chaine D’Or was wonderful. We decided to go with the sommelier’s tasting menu- with a different wine matched with each course. I wish more places would offer that option! We don’t know that much about French wines, so sometimes looking at the wine list is a little overwhelming, and it’s particularly nice to see which ones the sommelier chooses to go with each food. (As far as the meal: I highly recommend the breast of duck and the flaming apple tart for dessert!)
It was so relaxing sitting by the window and watching the sun set over the river while we ate. Later we found out that hopingtotravel (who also posts here) and her husband were at the next table! I wish we’d known at the time- we could have had a mini Fodor’s GTG!
Our first stop was Giverney on April 24. I was concerned that this would be too early in the year for the gardens to be very good, but oh was I wrong! It was GORGEOUS! The tulips were out of this world, and all the foliage was that fresh, new spring green color- so pretty!
We also enjoyed the Museum of American Art. I’m a big Mary Cassatt fan, and they have a nice collection of her work.
We stayed at the Chaine D’Or in Les Andelys for one night (thanks, Underhill, for the recommendation) and had a nice view from our room looking out over the river. The room was large, but not particularly exciting in decor.
Dinner at the Chaine D’Or was wonderful. We decided to go with the sommelier’s tasting menu- with a different wine matched with each course. I wish more places would offer that option! We don’t know that much about French wines, so sometimes looking at the wine list is a little overwhelming, and it’s particularly nice to see which ones the sommelier chooses to go with each food. (As far as the meal: I highly recommend the breast of duck and the flaming apple tart for dessert!)
It was so relaxing sitting by the window and watching the sun set over the river while we ate. Later we found out that hopingtotravel (who also posts here) and her husband were at the next table! I wish we’d known at the time- we could have had a mini Fodor’s GTG!
May 15th, 2005, 09:50 AM
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The next day our destination was Honfleur, but we stopped on the way to see Rouen and spent most of the day there. We found Rouen to be a charming city- well worth a day’s visit.
Top on our list of things to see was the Cathedral, inspired by seeing Monet’s series of paintings of it. Unfortunately, part of the front was covered by scaffolding, so it didn't quite look the same. Inside it was huge, imposing, and very cold. I didn’t love it, but maybe I’ve been seeing too many cathedrals lately.
The big surprise of Rouen was the absolutely STUNNING, modern church dedicated to St. Joan of Arc- built in the square right where she was burned at the stake. From the outside, it has a long, sweeping, jagged roofline that also incorporates the town marketplace. I thought it looked like a dragon, but I think it’s supposed to represent ocean waves.
The inside resembles a curved Viking ship, and has fabulous 16th century stained glass windows salvaged from a church that was destroyed by bombs in World War II. The old windows work perfectly in the contemporary setting, and I found it calm, serene, and very moving.
Rouen is a good town to wander on foot, and we enjoyed window shopping (surprisingly good shopping here!), and admiring the old half-timbered buildings that make Normandy look so different from the other parts of France we've seen.
We had our first croque madames of the trip, and bought some scrumptious chocolates that we enjoyed sampling over the next few days.
On the way to Honfleur, the landscape was dotted with yellow mustard fields, so bright they were practically Day-glo yellow.
For the rest of the trip we were on a quest to take a picture that really captured how amazing the fields looked. (I’ll be posting some pictures online, soon.)
Top on our list of things to see was the Cathedral, inspired by seeing Monet’s series of paintings of it. Unfortunately, part of the front was covered by scaffolding, so it didn't quite look the same. Inside it was huge, imposing, and very cold. I didn’t love it, but maybe I’ve been seeing too many cathedrals lately.
The big surprise of Rouen was the absolutely STUNNING, modern church dedicated to St. Joan of Arc- built in the square right where she was burned at the stake. From the outside, it has a long, sweeping, jagged roofline that also incorporates the town marketplace. I thought it looked like a dragon, but I think it’s supposed to represent ocean waves.
The inside resembles a curved Viking ship, and has fabulous 16th century stained glass windows salvaged from a church that was destroyed by bombs in World War II. The old windows work perfectly in the contemporary setting, and I found it calm, serene, and very moving.
Rouen is a good town to wander on foot, and we enjoyed window shopping (surprisingly good shopping here!), and admiring the old half-timbered buildings that make Normandy look so different from the other parts of France we've seen.
We had our first croque madames of the trip, and bought some scrumptious chocolates that we enjoyed sampling over the next few days.
On the way to Honfleur, the landscape was dotted with yellow mustard fields, so bright they were practically Day-glo yellow.
For the rest of the trip we were on a quest to take a picture that really captured how amazing the fields looked. (I’ll be posting some pictures online, soon.)
May 15th, 2005, 10:21 AM
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I've just returned from Normandy this weekend, and also noted the vast golden fields. However, rather than mustard, the crop was canola, which is related to mustard.
These days, France imports most of its mustard seed for its famous Dijon mustards from Saskatchewan, the world's largest producer and exporter of mustard seed.
It was interesting to learn that according to our hosts, who have a small farm, the crop in every field in France (and one assumes throughout the rest of the EU) is stricly controlled and monitored in accordance with EU regulations, through satellite photography.
It was wonderful to see all the lilacs in bloom, which won't happen where I live for a few weeks yet. I don't think the Eurocrats have got their hands on them yet.
These days, France imports most of its mustard seed for its famous Dijon mustards from Saskatchewan, the world's largest producer and exporter of mustard seed.
It was interesting to learn that according to our hosts, who have a small farm, the crop in every field in France (and one assumes throughout the rest of the EU) is stricly controlled and monitored in accordance with EU regulations, through satellite photography.
It was wonderful to see all the lilacs in bloom, which won't happen where I live for a few weeks yet. I don't think the Eurocrats have got their hands on them yet.
May 15th, 2005, 10:49 AM
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laverendrye,
So it was canola! How interesting!
We wondered, because it seemed like an awful lot of mustard, but we couldn't think what else would be so yellow, and no one seemed to be able to tell us what it was.
Anyway, the yellow fields were beautiful! (and we did get some good pictures)
Honfleur is a little coastal fishing village that is picturesque beyond words! Unfortunately, we aren’t the only people who have discovered it, so I suppose in the summer it might be overrun with obnoxious crowds of tourists, but the last week of April was a great time to be there.
We loved our little B & B in Honfleur! (Thank you Dave _in_Paris!). It’s owned by the very warm and delightful Liliane Giaglis and her equally charming husband. There are only a few rooms, in a some very old buildings surrounding a central courtyard/garden, on a residential street a few blocks from the center of town. Our room was large, comfortable, and simply but stylishly decorated, acccessed by climbing a very steep, narrow stairway.
Each morning breakfast was served in the darling little breakfast room (in warmer weather you can eat in the courtyard garden). Breakfast was coffee or hot chocolate served in bowls, orange juice, croissants and bread with butter and homemade preserves.
We enjoyed chatting each morning with the owners and other guests in an amusing combination of English and French.
Just delightful!
I found out that this place has also been recommended by Rick Steves, so I hope that isn’t going to ruin it.
So it was canola! How interesting!
We wondered, because it seemed like an awful lot of mustard, but we couldn't think what else would be so yellow, and no one seemed to be able to tell us what it was.
Anyway, the yellow fields were beautiful! (and we did get some good pictures)
Honfleur is a little coastal fishing village that is picturesque beyond words! Unfortunately, we aren’t the only people who have discovered it, so I suppose in the summer it might be overrun with obnoxious crowds of tourists, but the last week of April was a great time to be there.
We loved our little B & B in Honfleur! (Thank you Dave _in_Paris!). It’s owned by the very warm and delightful Liliane Giaglis and her equally charming husband. There are only a few rooms, in a some very old buildings surrounding a central courtyard/garden, on a residential street a few blocks from the center of town. Our room was large, comfortable, and simply but stylishly decorated, acccessed by climbing a very steep, narrow stairway.
Each morning breakfast was served in the darling little breakfast room (in warmer weather you can eat in the courtyard garden). Breakfast was coffee or hot chocolate served in bowls, orange juice, croissants and bread with butter and homemade preserves.
We enjoyed chatting each morning with the owners and other guests in an amusing combination of English and French.
Just delightful!
I found out that this place has also been recommended by Rick Steves, so I hope that isn’t going to ruin it.
May 15th, 2005, 12:12 PM
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With the B &B as our base, we spent the next four days driving around, exploring Normandy.
Highlights:
Touring the D-Day sites with Col. Michael Chilcott: Because of recommendations from this board, we hired Col. Chilcott to be our private guide for a day to tour the D-day beaches and cemeteries.
I have to admit to having mixed feelings about this experience.
The Colonel is very knowledgable, and gave us great background and history of the D-Day events. We learned an amazing amount of history from him. A lot of the places are not that well marked, and we wouldn’t have understood nearly as much about what we were seeing without him.
The problem for me was that his approach was (not surprisingly) very military: strategies and troop movement, men as pawns in a big game, “acceptable” losses.
I, on the other hand, have a much more emotional response to these events: I’m thinking of my father, who served in France in WW II (although not in the D-Day invasion), and of our son, who is now the same age my father was then, and how frightening and overwhelming it must have been to be there, and how terrible for the French people to have their home turned into a big battlefield.
It came to a head for me when we went to the American cemetery. It’s such a solemn place, with the perfect rows of graves, and just as walked up the carrillon began to play a hymn.
I was overcome with emotion and wanted nothing more than to walk through the graves crying for all these young men who gave their lives, and for all the families that they never returned to.
Col. Chilcott, however, was lecturing away about the positions of the various divisions during the invasion. I felt that he just didn’t “get it.”
In retrospect, we should have just told the Colonel that we wanted some time alone for contemplation and meditation- after all, this was our tour, to be tailored to our interests, but at the time we were just too “polite”. So instead of being enhanced, we felt that our experience of the American Cemetery was marred by being there with him.
The Memorial at Caen: Absolutely a “Don’t Miss”. We spent at least half a day there, and could easily have spent more. This museum did everything that our tour the day before did not, as far as putting a human face on the events of war.
The exhibit about the bombed-out cities, letters from soldiers to their families, and the terrifying film footage of battles were fascinating and moving.
Highlights:
Touring the D-Day sites with Col. Michael Chilcott: Because of recommendations from this board, we hired Col. Chilcott to be our private guide for a day to tour the D-day beaches and cemeteries.
I have to admit to having mixed feelings about this experience.
The Colonel is very knowledgable, and gave us great background and history of the D-Day events. We learned an amazing amount of history from him. A lot of the places are not that well marked, and we wouldn’t have understood nearly as much about what we were seeing without him.
The problem for me was that his approach was (not surprisingly) very military: strategies and troop movement, men as pawns in a big game, “acceptable” losses.
I, on the other hand, have a much more emotional response to these events: I’m thinking of my father, who served in France in WW II (although not in the D-Day invasion), and of our son, who is now the same age my father was then, and how frightening and overwhelming it must have been to be there, and how terrible for the French people to have their home turned into a big battlefield.
It came to a head for me when we went to the American cemetery. It’s such a solemn place, with the perfect rows of graves, and just as walked up the carrillon began to play a hymn.
I was overcome with emotion and wanted nothing more than to walk through the graves crying for all these young men who gave their lives, and for all the families that they never returned to.
Col. Chilcott, however, was lecturing away about the positions of the various divisions during the invasion. I felt that he just didn’t “get it.”
In retrospect, we should have just told the Colonel that we wanted some time alone for contemplation and meditation- after all, this was our tour, to be tailored to our interests, but at the time we were just too “polite”. So instead of being enhanced, we felt that our experience of the American Cemetery was marred by being there with him.
The Memorial at Caen: Absolutely a “Don’t Miss”. We spent at least half a day there, and could easily have spent more. This museum did everything that our tour the day before did not, as far as putting a human face on the events of war.
The exhibit about the bombed-out cities, letters from soldiers to their families, and the terrifying film footage of battles were fascinating and moving.
May 15th, 2005, 12:48 PM
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Hi Marcy and welcome back! This is great to read your report as we will be doing almost identically what you did! We will first go to Giverny, then to Les Andelys for the night. (Thinking about not going to Rouen, but driving thru the forested area to visit some of the Abbeys.) Then we go to Mme. Giaglis' b & b in Honfleur for a night. We will then amble westward to Bayeux as our base for several days. Eagerly awaiting more of your report. Is there a restaurant in Honfleur you liked?
May 15th, 2005, 01:35 PM
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wren-
Sounds like a great trip!
Our two favorite restaurants in Honfleur were:
La Grenouille, which is a less-fancy brasserie owned by the same people as L'Absinthe. Great seafood, and we had a very charming waiter who really made it fun.
Au P'tit Mareyeur- a bit fancier- excellent dinner. You absolutely need reservations here- it's very tiny, and apparently popular.
Highlights, continued--
Driving along the coast near Etretat:
One day we drove east, past Le Havre (which looks like the ugliest, most industrial city in France) , then along the coast to Etretat, once again searching for some the sites from Monet’s paintings.
Etretat is a cute little town, but the main things to see there are the cliffs and rock formations. It was a glorious crisp, sunny spring day, and we walked on the beach (no sand, just BIG smooth pebbles), then hiked up to the top of the cliffs for a fabulous view.
Next we drove along the scenic, winding coastal roads to Fécamp. After a nice lunch of mussels, a seafood galette, and cider, overlooking the ocean, we visited the Palais Benedictine.
I was only vaguely familiar with Benedictine, but now I know that it’s an herbal-flavored liqueur originally made by monks, but then rediscovered and marketed heavily in the late 1800’s. The tour includes the founder’s mansion and his collections, the distillery, and a tasting at the end-- either plain Benedictine or B&B (Benedictine and brandy).
We enjoyed the tour, and especially the tasting, and ended up buying a bottle of Benedictine and some chocolates filled with a generous portion of it-- you've got to love chocolates that can make you tipsy!
Sounds like a great trip!
Our two favorite restaurants in Honfleur were:
La Grenouille, which is a less-fancy brasserie owned by the same people as L'Absinthe. Great seafood, and we had a very charming waiter who really made it fun.
Au P'tit Mareyeur- a bit fancier- excellent dinner. You absolutely need reservations here- it's very tiny, and apparently popular.
Highlights, continued--
Driving along the coast near Etretat:
One day we drove east, past Le Havre (which looks like the ugliest, most industrial city in France) , then along the coast to Etretat, once again searching for some the sites from Monet’s paintings.
Etretat is a cute little town, but the main things to see there are the cliffs and rock formations. It was a glorious crisp, sunny spring day, and we walked on the beach (no sand, just BIG smooth pebbles), then hiked up to the top of the cliffs for a fabulous view.
Next we drove along the scenic, winding coastal roads to Fécamp. After a nice lunch of mussels, a seafood galette, and cider, overlooking the ocean, we visited the Palais Benedictine.
I was only vaguely familiar with Benedictine, but now I know that it’s an herbal-flavored liqueur originally made by monks, but then rediscovered and marketed heavily in the late 1800’s. The tour includes the founder’s mansion and his collections, the distillery, and a tasting at the end-- either plain Benedictine or B&B (Benedictine and brandy).
We enjoyed the tour, and especially the tasting, and ended up buying a bottle of Benedictine and some chocolates filled with a generous portion of it-- you've got to love chocolates that can make you tipsy!
May 15th, 2005, 02:24 PM
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Discovering Honfleur:
Honfleur is a great town for just strolling and relaxing, and we did a lot of that!
There LOTS of artists, and little galleries on every street. Plenty of little shops where you can buy Calvados (of course we did!) and local specialties like salted-butter caramels.
We enjoyed the little Erik Satie museum, and the park along the water.
Every evening we would stop at our favorite bar along the harbor to have a “Kir Normand”, which is cider with calvados and creme de cassis (not bad!), and to people watch.
Deauville and Trouville:
Deauville is a ritzy resort town with row after row of high-priced condos and hotels, plenty of designer shopping, a polo field, and a casino. We had NO desire to spend time there.
Trouville is just across the river from Deauville, and is a much more normal, bustling town. We found it MUCH more appealing, and enjoyed strolling past the fish market and having lunch on the harbor- more mussels and fish soup.
The next stop on our trip was Mont St. Michel for one night. On the way there we stopped at Bayeux to see the famous tapestry-- worth a stop.
Mont St. Michel really is a magical place. We arrived in the evening, so the crowds were gone for the day. It was calm, peaceful, and almost eerie-- with birds singing and circling around, and views out over the sand flats almost as far as you can see.
We had dinner at a restaurant with a view out over the bay, and stayed at the Auberge St. Pierre for the night- not a great room, but a cute little terrace and nice view. We were glad to spend the night on the Mont, as people had advised here- it is a completely different experience at night.
In the morning we enjoyed the peace and calm before the tour buses arrived, and then toured the abbey as soon as it opened. What an amazing place! Absolutely worth a visit!
Then it was Goodbye Normandy! and we drove off to Paris to spend the next week.
I’m going to post the Paris section as a separate report-- coming soon.
Honfleur is a great town for just strolling and relaxing, and we did a lot of that!
There LOTS of artists, and little galleries on every street. Plenty of little shops where you can buy Calvados (of course we did!) and local specialties like salted-butter caramels.
We enjoyed the little Erik Satie museum, and the park along the water.
Every evening we would stop at our favorite bar along the harbor to have a “Kir Normand”, which is cider with calvados and creme de cassis (not bad!), and to people watch.
Deauville and Trouville:
Deauville is a ritzy resort town with row after row of high-priced condos and hotels, plenty of designer shopping, a polo field, and a casino. We had NO desire to spend time there.
Trouville is just across the river from Deauville, and is a much more normal, bustling town. We found it MUCH more appealing, and enjoyed strolling past the fish market and having lunch on the harbor- more mussels and fish soup.
The next stop on our trip was Mont St. Michel for one night. On the way there we stopped at Bayeux to see the famous tapestry-- worth a stop.
Mont St. Michel really is a magical place. We arrived in the evening, so the crowds were gone for the day. It was calm, peaceful, and almost eerie-- with birds singing and circling around, and views out over the sand flats almost as far as you can see.
We had dinner at a restaurant with a view out over the bay, and stayed at the Auberge St. Pierre for the night- not a great room, but a cute little terrace and nice view. We were glad to spend the night on the Mont, as people had advised here- it is a completely different experience at night.
In the morning we enjoyed the peace and calm before the tour buses arrived, and then toured the abbey as soon as it opened. What an amazing place! Absolutely worth a visit!
Then it was Goodbye Normandy! and we drove off to Paris to spend the next week.
I’m going to post the Paris section as a separate report-- coming soon.
May 15th, 2005, 03:53 PM
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We are arriving early one evening and spending the night at Auberge St. Pierre also, with plans to get up, tour, and head out. I have seen an incredible B & B where you can "view" the Mont. from a distance. Do you think it is still better to stay at the Auberge for the evening rather than see it from afar? It sounded like it could be special, but you don't sound too impressed with the hotel.
May 15th, 2005, 04:32 PM
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I stayed at the Auberge St.Pierre a few years ago. It's not the Ritz, but is what you would expect of a hotel in its category, and for me the experience of staying the night on the Mont was worth it. We were able to walk around empty streets and battlements in the evening, and again very early in the morning just after dawn. It's an experience not to be missed.
May 15th, 2005, 04:57 PM
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wonderful trip report, marcy, had I known you would stop in Trouville, I would have suggested you stop at our favorite lunch stop there, Les Vapeurs, The American cemetary is very moving and I'll never forget it as I'll never forget Ordour sur Glane
May 15th, 2005, 04:58 PM
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I would eat there so that you're all settled in before dinner. The dining room's not bad, and has a great view. As I recall I made the mistake of ordering a plat de fruits de mer, which of course takes an eternity to get through. Those in our party who had the lamb pré-salé were the winners.
May 15th, 2005, 05:49 PM
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Mimi-
That IS where we ate lunch! --Based on your recommendation-- Thanks!
wren, I agree with laverendrye-- I would stay on the Mont. The Auberge St. Pierre was fine, just nothing fancy.
That IS where we ate lunch! --Based on your recommendation-- Thanks!
wren, I agree with laverendrye-- I would stay on the Mont. The Auberge St. Pierre was fine, just nothing fancy.
May 15th, 2005, 05:58 PM
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What a wonderful trip report! I am in the process of planning our intinerary
for our June trip to Normandy, and didn't know where to start. Thank you
for the wonderful ideas. We will be
in Normandy for 1 week. My husb. would
like to see some of Brittany. I can't
possibly imagine having enough time to
see all that Normandy has to offer, as
well as a bit of Brittany. What do you
think? I say it's a great reason to
plan next year's trip to Brittany.
for our June trip to Normandy, and didn't know where to start. Thank you
for the wonderful ideas. We will be
in Normandy for 1 week. My husb. would
like to see some of Brittany. I can't
possibly imagine having enough time to
see all that Normandy has to offer, as
well as a bit of Brittany. What do you
think? I say it's a great reason to
plan next year's trip to Brittany.
