Bath, Stonehenge & More -- 3-day weekend
Aug 30th, 2011, 12:13 PM
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Bath, Stonehenge & More -- 3-day weekend
We, family of 4 with kids age 12 & 9, continued to take advantage of our UK location and squeezed in a quick trip to the Bath area over the August Bank Holiday weekend. First of all, I expected masses of people and general chaos given the popular travel destination and time of year, but it really wasn't that bad. Perhaps other popular destinations are overcome with tourists and locals but that didn't seem to be the case. I plan to travel on all bank holiday weekends since that's convenient for us, and I wouldn't let it deter your plans either.
Though very few, if any, of you Fodorites will have the same situation as us (i.e. living in the UK as ex-pats), this should also apply to those visiting London with a few extra days to spare.
We left Derby to head south around 8 am on Saturday morning. Our ultimate destination that evening was a small B&B near Bradford on Avon (near Bath) but we had a few stops planned along the way. Traffic was dense, but we didn't really stall until the various motorways converged outside of Bristol -- probably cost us 30 minutes or so. Could have been much worse.
Our first stop was thrown in at the last minute: <b>Cheddar Gorge</b>. I knew we wouldn't have time to tour the caves and things and hit our other stops so this was basically a scenic stop. It was a pretty area for sure.
The main purpose of the stop, though, was to visit the Cheddar Gorge Cheese Company (www.cheddargorgecheeseco.co.uk). We really enjoyed the behind the scenes tour and video to see how the cheese is made. Apparently this is the official cheddar and like most things here, dates back 100's of years. The samples were tasty and gave us some ideas for a future order but we didn't leave with any this time.
After a nondescript pub lunch, we continued on the back roads to stop # 2: <b>Wells</b>. Wells has a very impressive Gothic Cathedral (circa 1200) and at least on this day, a nice market area set up near by (www.wellscathedral.org.uk/). DW joined a tour in progress while the kids and I had a look around. Impressive stained glass, unique scissor (double) arches and an interesting old clock (~1300) were notable.
There was plenty more to see in the area (the cathedral grounds were quite large) but we were treating this more as a survey trip and wanted to fit in one more stop before turning in for the night.
That last stop was <b>Glastonbury</b>. Again, this was a neat town that deserved more of our time. Glastonbury has had some savvy marketeers / story tellers over the years as many legends abound. It is believed that Joseph of Arimathea delivered vials of his nephew's (Jesus) blood in AD 37. Business boomed in the area as it was a major pilgrimage site until Canterbury become the hot ticket in 1171. Later there was a fire in the abbey and tombs of King Arthur and Queen Guinevere were [allegedly] discovered.
Since we were winging it, we didn't exactly time things perfectly. We made it to the abbey ruins but after the tours there. We did catch a birds of prey exhibit within the grounds that the kids really liked. Each got to hold an owl for a photo op.
The chalice well (of Holy Grail repute) was unfortunately closed but we did find the energy to walk up the Tor for an excellent view of the town and surrounding areas.
Nightfall was coming and I wanted to find our B&B in daylight. We just made it. After checking in, we drove into Bradford on Avon and had a surprisingly good meal at the Orient Express (Thai mainly).
Details on the B&B, Bath, Stonehenge and more to come.
Though very few, if any, of you Fodorites will have the same situation as us (i.e. living in the UK as ex-pats), this should also apply to those visiting London with a few extra days to spare.
We left Derby to head south around 8 am on Saturday morning. Our ultimate destination that evening was a small B&B near Bradford on Avon (near Bath) but we had a few stops planned along the way. Traffic was dense, but we didn't really stall until the various motorways converged outside of Bristol -- probably cost us 30 minutes or so. Could have been much worse.
Our first stop was thrown in at the last minute: <b>Cheddar Gorge</b>. I knew we wouldn't have time to tour the caves and things and hit our other stops so this was basically a scenic stop. It was a pretty area for sure.
The main purpose of the stop, though, was to visit the Cheddar Gorge Cheese Company (www.cheddargorgecheeseco.co.uk). We really enjoyed the behind the scenes tour and video to see how the cheese is made. Apparently this is the official cheddar and like most things here, dates back 100's of years. The samples were tasty and gave us some ideas for a future order but we didn't leave with any this time.
After a nondescript pub lunch, we continued on the back roads to stop # 2: <b>Wells</b>. Wells has a very impressive Gothic Cathedral (circa 1200) and at least on this day, a nice market area set up near by (www.wellscathedral.org.uk/). DW joined a tour in progress while the kids and I had a look around. Impressive stained glass, unique scissor (double) arches and an interesting old clock (~1300) were notable.
There was plenty more to see in the area (the cathedral grounds were quite large) but we were treating this more as a survey trip and wanted to fit in one more stop before turning in for the night.
That last stop was <b>Glastonbury</b>. Again, this was a neat town that deserved more of our time. Glastonbury has had some savvy marketeers / story tellers over the years as many legends abound. It is believed that Joseph of Arimathea delivered vials of his nephew's (Jesus) blood in AD 37. Business boomed in the area as it was a major pilgrimage site until Canterbury become the hot ticket in 1171. Later there was a fire in the abbey and tombs of King Arthur and Queen Guinevere were [allegedly] discovered.
Since we were winging it, we didn't exactly time things perfectly. We made it to the abbey ruins but after the tours there. We did catch a birds of prey exhibit within the grounds that the kids really liked. Each got to hold an owl for a photo op.
The chalice well (of Holy Grail repute) was unfortunately closed but we did find the energy to walk up the Tor for an excellent view of the town and surrounding areas.
Nightfall was coming and I wanted to find our B&B in daylight. We just made it. After checking in, we drove into Bradford on Avon and had a surprisingly good meal at the Orient Express (Thai mainly).
Details on the B&B, Bath, Stonehenge and more to come.
Aug 30th, 2011, 01:11 PM
#3
did you not go into the caves themselves? Kent's cavern is one, I think.
it is a quintessential english childhood experience - I still remember going down there when I was about 7 - about 50 years ago.
anyway, I'm very interested to see England through your eyes.
keep it coming!
it is a quintessential english childhood experience - I still remember going down there when I was about 7 - about 50 years ago.
anyway, I'm very interested to see England through your eyes.
keep it coming!
Aug 30th, 2011, 02:40 PM
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I (with some students) was just in Cheddar/Wells/Glastonbury this past June, so I especially enjoyed hearing your experiences. That walk up the Tor at the end of our long day was exhausting but, as you noted, worth it for the spectacular views! Keep writing.
Aug 30th, 2011, 05:44 PM
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Eagerly awaiting the next chapter!
Judging from my son's photos this morning, it appears that a good portion of England spent the Bank Holiday at the Notting Hill festival (which apparently had quite a police presence and was "relatively" sane this year).
Judging from my son's photos this morning, it appears that a good portion of England spent the Bank Holiday at the Notting Hill festival (which apparently had quite a police presence and was "relatively" sane this year).
Aug 31st, 2011, 11:14 AM
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. . . continued
I didn't put too much time into planning this weekend jaunt, but considering it was a Bank Holiday weekend, I did scope out a room months in advanced.
Normally, we would choose to be centrally located with a family room in a B&B or a reasonably priced hotel chain (HI Express or Premier Inn). I went the B&B route this time and "looked" at over 50 places. Many wanted a 3-day minimum, did not have a suitable family room, were pricey or parking would be an issue. So, we looked further afield and ended up at the Great Ashley House B&B in (near) Bradford on Avon.
This was a smaller place (3 rooms) and much more remote (rural, single track road) than we typically find. The price was right though (£50/room/night -- 2 rooms). It didn't measure up to most places we've stayed, but cost half as much as our other options so it's hard to complain (see Trip Advisor for more info).
It was 10 minutes to Bradford on Avon and 15 minutes to Bath so not too bad. The worst part was the blind, single track road out to it. It seemed like we held our breathe the whole time. We did have to reverse over a distance one time and dodge some horses on another.
<b>Bath</b>
We planned for a long, but well paced day in Bath. We've found that we like well done walking tours where we can have some information given as well as interact with others on the walk. We drove in and parked near the Cricket field (£15/day -- not cheap but easy) and had a 5 minute level walk into town. At 10:30 we joined the Mayor's Guide walk (FREE!!). There was a big crowd and they planned accordingly with 3 guides to split up the group.
The tour was fantastic. Very informative. It focused on Bath in the 1700's but did give a quick overview of Roman and then medieval times. We started near the Abbey and Roman Baths and made our way around through Queen's Square, Royal Victoria Park / Royal Crescent, and The Circus. Fascinating and highly recommended.
We did a quick look around for lunch and decided to eat at All Bar One. They had a nice menu ("European"?) that was a step or two above normal pub food (but still reasonably priced). We actually liked to well enough to try it again that night but they turned us away (no kids allowed).
After a nice relaxing lunch, we headed to the Abbey. It was Sunday so hours were limited, no tours were given and the option of climbing the tower was not available. That said, it was still a nice look inside (though we missed some of the history with that approach). Much different concept with the plain windows across the top to let the light in. Our earlier tour guide had talked about the symbolism of the front facade which did help.
After about an hour, we decided to queue up for the Roman Baths Museum. Again, I had heard stories of the long lines and massive crowds on the inside. It only took 5-10 minutes to get inside and sure, there were a lot of people, but it never seemed to detract from the exhibit. The history is fascinating and we enjoyed the audio-guide (separate kids' tracks too). Amazing to think about this being covered up until the late 1800's while Bath was in its hey day. We ended up at the Pump Room (restaurant) but did not partake of either the special water nor the proper food and drink.
After the museum, I had to keep my promise and get ice cream for the kids (and tea for the adults). We found it helpful to have these planned breaks as we knew we were in for a long day.
Unfortunately, we were in no-mans land for timing. Being Sunday, the shops started closing up so we walked around and window shopped for awhile. We then had a leisurely dinner at Browns, also near the Abbey. It was fine, though nothing to particularly rave about.
We capped off the evening with a comedy walking tour: Bizarre Bath (www.bizarrebath.co.uk/). It was a mixture of humor, magic and good fun. The kids enjoyed it even though many of the jokes went over their head. Excellent audience participation and random comments to passers-by. I'm guessing there were 100 people coming along. Though not free, the £26/family price was well worth it. Again, highly recommended.
We had an excellent, full day in Bath. I'm sure there's plenty more to see. In fact, DW is already planning her return for when her sister visits.
We managed to find our way back to the farm house around 10:30 (thank goodness for sat nav's) and we all slept very well.
Next up: some famous old rocks . . .
I didn't put too much time into planning this weekend jaunt, but considering it was a Bank Holiday weekend, I did scope out a room months in advanced.
Normally, we would choose to be centrally located with a family room in a B&B or a reasonably priced hotel chain (HI Express or Premier Inn). I went the B&B route this time and "looked" at over 50 places. Many wanted a 3-day minimum, did not have a suitable family room, were pricey or parking would be an issue. So, we looked further afield and ended up at the Great Ashley House B&B in (near) Bradford on Avon.
This was a smaller place (3 rooms) and much more remote (rural, single track road) than we typically find. The price was right though (£50/room/night -- 2 rooms). It didn't measure up to most places we've stayed, but cost half as much as our other options so it's hard to complain (see Trip Advisor for more info).
It was 10 minutes to Bradford on Avon and 15 minutes to Bath so not too bad. The worst part was the blind, single track road out to it. It seemed like we held our breathe the whole time. We did have to reverse over a distance one time and dodge some horses on another.
<b>Bath</b>
We planned for a long, but well paced day in Bath. We've found that we like well done walking tours where we can have some information given as well as interact with others on the walk. We drove in and parked near the Cricket field (£15/day -- not cheap but easy) and had a 5 minute level walk into town. At 10:30 we joined the Mayor's Guide walk (FREE!!). There was a big crowd and they planned accordingly with 3 guides to split up the group.
The tour was fantastic. Very informative. It focused on Bath in the 1700's but did give a quick overview of Roman and then medieval times. We started near the Abbey and Roman Baths and made our way around through Queen's Square, Royal Victoria Park / Royal Crescent, and The Circus. Fascinating and highly recommended.
We did a quick look around for lunch and decided to eat at All Bar One. They had a nice menu ("European"?) that was a step or two above normal pub food (but still reasonably priced). We actually liked to well enough to try it again that night but they turned us away (no kids allowed).
After a nice relaxing lunch, we headed to the Abbey. It was Sunday so hours were limited, no tours were given and the option of climbing the tower was not available. That said, it was still a nice look inside (though we missed some of the history with that approach). Much different concept with the plain windows across the top to let the light in. Our earlier tour guide had talked about the symbolism of the front facade which did help.
After about an hour, we decided to queue up for the Roman Baths Museum. Again, I had heard stories of the long lines and massive crowds on the inside. It only took 5-10 minutes to get inside and sure, there were a lot of people, but it never seemed to detract from the exhibit. The history is fascinating and we enjoyed the audio-guide (separate kids' tracks too). Amazing to think about this being covered up until the late 1800's while Bath was in its hey day. We ended up at the Pump Room (restaurant) but did not partake of either the special water nor the proper food and drink.
After the museum, I had to keep my promise and get ice cream for the kids (and tea for the adults). We found it helpful to have these planned breaks as we knew we were in for a long day.
Unfortunately, we were in no-mans land for timing. Being Sunday, the shops started closing up so we walked around and window shopped for awhile. We then had a leisurely dinner at Browns, also near the Abbey. It was fine, though nothing to particularly rave about.
We capped off the evening with a comedy walking tour: Bizarre Bath (www.bizarrebath.co.uk/). It was a mixture of humor, magic and good fun. The kids enjoyed it even though many of the jokes went over their head. Excellent audience participation and random comments to passers-by. I'm guessing there were 100 people coming along. Though not free, the £26/family price was well worth it. Again, highly recommended.
We had an excellent, full day in Bath. I'm sure there's plenty more to see. In fact, DW is already planning her return for when her sister visits.
We managed to find our way back to the farm house around 10:30 (thank goodness for sat nav's) and we all slept very well.
Next up: some famous old rocks . . .
Aug 31st, 2011, 12:07 PM
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Oh, how could I forget. After coming out of the Roman Bath museum, there was a street performer. We missed his initial bit but caught him in time to see him climb up a 10-foot unicycle and then proceed to juggle fire batons. Well done. The kids really enjoy these things and we enjoyed this one too. We happily left some coins with him and he seemed to make out okay.
Sep 1st, 2011, 11:48 AM
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Last day . . .
Before the 3-hr drive back home we wanted to see some of the old rocks, i.e. Stonehenge and Avebury. After a nice breakfast and checking out of the B&B we loaded up the car and headed to Stonehenge, slightly less than an hour away.
I read an older thread here about the pros/cons of Stonehenge. The old timers lamented not being able to walk among the stones and touch them. Some talked about how fantastic it was and others were disappointed. I definitely wanted to judge for myself and would encourage others to do the same.
Stonehenge was an interesting mix of feelings. It's impressive in size yet we still expected bigger. It's too bad you can't stand near the stones, but then again they are now better protected and you can get some nice photos without people in the way. The audio-guide was nice to have as it provided some background info, yet it's also nice to sit back and just look and ponder about the how/why.
I think my 12 y.o. somewhat appreciated what she was seeing, but my 9 y.o. was in quite the funk that day. I had to pull out the "some day you'll appreciate all you are seeing" lecture. Oh well, not every day is a perfect day.
We are both English Heritage and National Trust members so the attraction and parking were free. I guess it's not fair for me to comment on the admission price but we've had other things (like the Glastonbury Abbey) which didn't seem to have the cost/value ratio that you might expect. We always rationalize that it is for a good cause and don't worry about whether it was a good deal or not if it is something we wanted to see.
That said, there were quite a few people parked on the far side road for a quick view (fair enough I guess). There were even more that were parked on the near side road standing up against the chain linked fence. This is clearly "cheating" IMO and goes against the intent. You don't want them to put up a privacy fence do you? It's a World Heritage site -- pay the piper and get a closer look. </rant>
Glad we went but also glad we didn't drive 3-hrs just for that. Back to the car and a relatively short drive to Avebury.
Avebury is your typical small, one-pub town . . . that just happens to be in the middle of a 5000+ year stone circle. There's also a huge, man-made hill (Silbury) as well as 6000 year old burial mounds (nearby West Kennet Long Barrow). The stone circle is much larger in diameter (16 times?) than Stonehenge and we enjoyed walking around it. We walked along the earth mound to get an overview and also walked among the stones. Unfortunately, many of the stones have been destroyed along the way (and have been replaced by smaller stone markers).
Fewer people and much no tour buses but we weren't exactly by ourselves either. There were two nice museums though we really only skimmed the surface on one and passed on the other. Glad we went as part of the trip and would encourage those with cars to check it out.
We had lunch at the pub (Red Lion) and finally made our way home. It was a fulfilling weekend and we look forward to other opportunities. Bath deserved more time but I'm also glad we got to fit in the other nearby sites.
Pictures and some additional (redundant?) commentary on my blog:
http://ukfrey.blogspot.com/2011/08/bath-stonehenge.html
Before the 3-hr drive back home we wanted to see some of the old rocks, i.e. Stonehenge and Avebury. After a nice breakfast and checking out of the B&B we loaded up the car and headed to Stonehenge, slightly less than an hour away.
I read an older thread here about the pros/cons of Stonehenge. The old timers lamented not being able to walk among the stones and touch them. Some talked about how fantastic it was and others were disappointed. I definitely wanted to judge for myself and would encourage others to do the same.
Stonehenge was an interesting mix of feelings. It's impressive in size yet we still expected bigger. It's too bad you can't stand near the stones, but then again they are now better protected and you can get some nice photos without people in the way. The audio-guide was nice to have as it provided some background info, yet it's also nice to sit back and just look and ponder about the how/why.
I think my 12 y.o. somewhat appreciated what she was seeing, but my 9 y.o. was in quite the funk that day. I had to pull out the "some day you'll appreciate all you are seeing" lecture. Oh well, not every day is a perfect day.
We are both English Heritage and National Trust members so the attraction and parking were free. I guess it's not fair for me to comment on the admission price but we've had other things (like the Glastonbury Abbey) which didn't seem to have the cost/value ratio that you might expect. We always rationalize that it is for a good cause and don't worry about whether it was a good deal or not if it is something we wanted to see.
That said, there were quite a few people parked on the far side road for a quick view (fair enough I guess). There were even more that were parked on the near side road standing up against the chain linked fence. This is clearly "cheating" IMO and goes against the intent. You don't want them to put up a privacy fence do you? It's a World Heritage site -- pay the piper and get a closer look. </rant>
Glad we went but also glad we didn't drive 3-hrs just for that. Back to the car and a relatively short drive to Avebury.
Avebury is your typical small, one-pub town . . . that just happens to be in the middle of a 5000+ year stone circle. There's also a huge, man-made hill (Silbury) as well as 6000 year old burial mounds (nearby West Kennet Long Barrow). The stone circle is much larger in diameter (16 times?) than Stonehenge and we enjoyed walking around it. We walked along the earth mound to get an overview and also walked among the stones. Unfortunately, many of the stones have been destroyed along the way (and have been replaced by smaller stone markers).
Fewer people and much no tour buses but we weren't exactly by ourselves either. There were two nice museums though we really only skimmed the surface on one and passed on the other. Glad we went as part of the trip and would encourage those with cars to check it out.
We had lunch at the pub (Red Lion) and finally made our way home. It was a fulfilling weekend and we look forward to other opportunities. Bath deserved more time but I'm also glad we got to fit in the other nearby sites.
Pictures and some additional (redundant?) commentary on my blog:
http://ukfrey.blogspot.com/2011/08/bath-stonehenge.html
Sep 1st, 2011, 02:58 PM
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Indy: Thanks for your report on places I am hoping to see next year. I think you are right- there are some places you have to see and judge for yourself. Now you've got me worried. If you all are wearing sweatshirts the end of August, we are going to be freezing in May. Yikes!
Sep 1st, 2011, 09:24 PM
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<i> If you all are wearing sweatshirts the end of August, we are going to be freezing in May. Yikes! </i>
Not necessarily. April/May were generally nicer this year than the official summer months. It all depends. In general though, it the temperatures don't vary as much as you are probably used to in the States. From our 6 months here (no winter yet), a cool day is 50s/60s and a warm day is 60s/70s. Bring a light wrap and a waterproof jacket and use/discard as necessary.
Have fun planning.
Not necessarily. April/May were generally nicer this year than the official summer months. It all depends. In general though, it the temperatures don't vary as much as you are probably used to in the States. From our 6 months here (no winter yet), a cool day is 50s/60s and a warm day is 60s/70s. Bring a light wrap and a waterproof jacket and use/discard as necessary.
Have fun planning.
Sep 1st, 2011, 09:59 PM
#12
"<i>If you all are wearing sweatshirts the end of August, we are going to be freezing in May. Yikes!</i>"
You'll more than likely be wearing sweatshirts one day, rain hats the next morning, and shorts/tees in the afternoon. The weather is nothing if not changeable.
The mantra is "layers, layers, layers"
You'll more than likely be wearing sweatshirts one day, rain hats the next morning, and shorts/tees in the afternoon. The weather is nothing if not changeable.
The mantra is "layers, layers, layers"
Sep 2nd, 2011, 08:11 AM
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You visited several places I did 11 years ago. My traveling companion still frequently mentions that we visited Cheddar on his birthday (note, it was March 16 - a Friday- and the town was just starting to gear up for the tourist season, not everything being open). I especially got a kick out of the fact that you could buy cheese based on how long it was aged. Cheddar is a very pretty village.
I am one of these 'old timers' who liked it better when you could go up to the stones in Stonehenge. I will admit that it is nice to get pictures without people by the stones. And by going to Avebury, you get a 'walk among the stones' experience. It is surprising that more people don't visit there.
You mention the West Kennet Long Barrow - did you visit it? I found it to bean unique experience as I was the only one there (my companion was experiencing difficulty walking so he didn't visit since it is a long walk thru a farmer's field).
I am one of these 'old timers' who liked it better when you could go up to the stones in Stonehenge. I will admit that it is nice to get pictures without people by the stones. And by going to Avebury, you get a 'walk among the stones' experience. It is surprising that more people don't visit there.
You mention the West Kennet Long Barrow - did you visit it? I found it to bean unique experience as I was the only one there (my companion was experiencing difficulty walking so he didn't visit since it is a long walk thru a farmer's field).
Sep 2nd, 2011, 09:07 AM
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@bigtyke -- no we did not make it to West Kennet or Silbury Hill for that matter. Had to get home to take care of domestic duties before starting the work week. Travel is always a compromise! I wish we had a little more time at each place.
Sep 2nd, 2011, 12:51 PM
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Thanks for the report on Stonehenge. It's hubby's choice to go there but I think we should try to go to Avebury for a close up of their stones (I like getting up close and personal). Still Salisbury's Cathedral and the Magna Carta may win out over Avebury. Too many choices! Hopefully we'll have no problems driving since we need to be in Chichester that evening...
Just one week to go!!!
Just one week to go!!!
Sep 12th, 2011, 07:05 AM
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indy_dad,
How long was the Mayor's guide walk in Bath? Did it have other tour times or just 10:30am? I'll be in Bath on a tour from London and will just have a few hours there (in addition to Stonehenge and Avebury).
Thanks,
Monica
How long was the Mayor's guide walk in Bath? Did it have other tour times or just 10:30am? I'll be in Bath on a tour from London and will just have a few hours there (in addition to Stonehenge and Avebury).
Thanks,
Monica
Sep 12th, 2011, 07:21 AM
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"How long was the Mayor's guide walk in Bath? Did it have other tour times or just 10:30am? I'll be in Bath on a tour from London and will just have a few hours there (in addition to Stonehenge and Avebury)."
... my question too.
... my question too.
Sep 12th, 2011, 07:58 AM
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From memory, I believe it is nominally 2 hours and lasted 2:15 given the large group size. That's the only time (it is free after all) that I'm aware of.
Highly recommended though. I'd skip Avebury to partake if necessary (my opinion). I hope your schedule allows you to fit it in.
Highly recommended though. I'd skip Avebury to partake if necessary (my opinion). I hope your schedule allows you to fit it in.
